Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
These are the first jeans I've had from Bryceland's, and I've been absolutely loving them - for the fit, the colour and the denim.
But I was a little nervous about buying them, as I'd never had unsanforised denim before. Given I know this will be a concern of readers, and it's where my journey started, let's deal with that issue first.
Unsanforised denim will usually shrink more than sanforised, but also mould and shape to your body more. Most raw denim is sanforised to some extent, and doesn’t shrink as much.
The fear, of course, is that you buy the wrong size, it shrinks a bit more or less than you expect, and you end up with jeans you don't like.
Brycelands try to help in two ways - by listing the jean measurements before and after a first wash, and by selling jeans that have already been washed. So you can buy them with the shrink taken out, or indeed try a washed pair and then buy the unsanforised, knowing how they'll shrink.
This is what I did, and found the process pretty straightforward.
I noted the measurements on the website, and thought I'd be a 32 or a 33. I then tried on washed pairs in the store and found the 32 a little big snug, the 33 a little bit loose.
Going off the team's advice, that the denim would stretch to fit, I took the 32 and they have proved to be perfect.
They were a little tight when first washed, but within half a hour of wearing had grown out to the size they needed to be. And of course this is the point of unsanforised denim: 'shrink to fit' means not just that it will shrink down, but that it will also then stretch again if required.
After three washes, my jeans now measure 83cm on the waist, which is closer to a washed 33 than a 32 on the Brycelands measurements. They have effectively grown a half inch where they needed it.
Unsanforised denim, like raw denim, has this advantage of fitting to you, fades more, and usually has a more characterful, hand-woven feel (the sanforising process can flatten out some of that character).
But there's no point having any of those things if they aren't ones you'll appreciate. If they're not, just get a washed pair. (When I say appreciate, by the way, I don't mean enjoying telling other people about them - that doesn't count.)
Elsewhere, the jeans are also a great fit. The rise is fairly high without being up around the natural waist - we could call it a high mid-rise - and bigger in the back than the front.
It’s generous through the hips, noticeably curving around them before tapering through the legs - unlike most old 501s, which are very straight through there (my only fit issue I have with vintage ones).
The leg line is then slim, but not as much as I thought it would be. The chart says a 20.1cm hem, I measure mine at 20.8 (there will always be small differences) and most of my dress trousers have a 20cm hem. That taper through from the knee also makes them look more generous elsewhere.
It’s the same fit in the top half, by the way, as the first Bryceland’s jeans, the indigo 133; it just tapers more. They are working on an indigo jean in this cut, but it won’t be ready until the Autumn.
The other significant thing about the Bryceland’s black denim is that it has black yarn in the warp and the weft, where most mainstream jeans use white and black.
The effect is that the jeans are very black - blacker than the jeans you’re used to seeing from mainstream brands, which are virtually mid-grey after they’ve been washed.
They will fade, and mine have already done so after three washes, as you can see from the close-up images. They will also eventually turn a mid-grey, as shown on the Bryceland’s site. But it will take a lot longer, so for a good while they will be more like the colour of mine.
I like this colour, and in fact I’ve found them the easiest thing to wear of all the black pieces I’ve added to my wardrobe. But they are not the grey jeans many people want when they say black, and won’t work in the same way. I particularly like how friends wear navy with their black jeans, for example - almost like a denim version of grey flannel - and these jeans won’t give that look.
On the subject of colour, Ethan would not wash these jeans as quickly and as frequently as I have (or indeed as Kenji has).
Doing so gives up a fair bit of the personal fading that comes with wearing denim from raw - the whiskering, the honeycombing. But while I’m happy to give that time with an indigo jean, I just found the raw black too dark to enjoy wearing, so wasn’t going to get them to that state.
From that point of view, there was less point me buying the unwashed version, but I have also enjoyed how the denim has adapted. (Plus it’s a useful thing to try out for all those unsure PS readers.)
The jeans can be hemmed in store, by the way, as Ben now has the chainstitch machine fully up and running.
Clothes shown:
- Bryceland’s 933 black jeans, size 32
- Alden full-strap loafers in color-8 cordovan, Aberdeen last
- Rubato lambswool sweater (old size large)
- Rubato black alligator belt with brass buckle
- JLC Reverso watch in yellow gold, with black alligator strap
- Hermes navy silk bandana
Read more about advice on wearing and washing raw denim here.
Hi Simon, how did you wash this at home?
30 degrees, normal cotton setting, hang dry
Did you wash it inside out?
From the pictures I see those ‘dreaded’ vertical lines on your jeans? From what I’ve read, denimheads will turn in their grave but is it noticeable in person?
Do you know what Im talking about? I guess it bother you…
It is noticeable, but no it doesn’t bother me. I did wash inside out, but didn’t flatten them out as soon as the wash finished. As I said though, all part of the character for me
With all denim, especially raw, I wash as infrequently as possible to retain colour ( I prefer raw indigo ), plus earn the natural creases from body movement over time, & if necessary refresh with denim, bio spray. I do wash inside out on a cold wash, fold neatly in machine & stretch back in shape along seams, lay flat, then lightly iron inside out. The trouble I once found not doing this & being carefree was finding a fade mark down-the leg which looked odd against the normal crease & wear marks.
I recently bought BLA E5 pre washed black denim( 15 minored pre wash ), sanforised jeans, as I didn’t want the black, wanted the reassurance of fit that comes, but these Brycelands give an alternative route if you want to sit in the cold bath with them on for that fit ?
@simon in order to get the unsanforised denim to mold to you, must you wear them when damp out of the wash or do you wait till they’re fully dried?
Fully dried was fine for me. If you really needed them to stretch more, you could get them damp and then try, but I’d start with dry
Not a fan of the ashy charcoal, almost greasy moss color these have developed. Can’t imagine how the color could be worn well. Also dislike the loafer and espadrille (?!) pairings. Some workwear or biker boots would make much more sense to me.
Not sure what you’re looking at JJ, but nothing greasy or moss-coloured about the jeans.
Fair enough loafers aren’t your cup of tea here, I think it’s great – bigger boots would be a very different vibe
I definitely see a green hue in some of these pictures. Just a poor color overall
Well in that case it’s the pictures, JJ. There’s no green cast to them (I have green-cast denim, the Armoury does/did some, it can be a nice way to make indigo denim a little smarter, but there’s none here – it’s always obvious from the reverse)
Hello JJ,
Can confirm, no green in these what so ever, could be the colour grading on the photo. Of course, if you are interested, the easiest way to really know is come and see them in person if you can.
I have a pair from RL in a very thick dark denim that I don’t wear anymore as the rise is too low, and a bit slim on the thighs; this article made me want to try them again.
On another note, I have a pair of 501s that has given quite a bit on the waist. I like the fit on the thighs and legs, but I would like to shrink the waist back. Are there any tricks, like soaking only the waist in very hot water?
Not that I’ve tried and could recommend. It’s possible to take in the waist though – I’ve done that before. See piece here
Hmmm …
There is a reason that classic denim is cut full and in traditional weaves.
Without the coloured (indigo) and white warp and weft denim lacks visual delpth and richness
With such a slim line, the denim tends to cling instead of hang – it is a type of cotton after all so iit tends to ride high after creasing, exposing ankles, all of which can be resolved with a fuller cut.
Apologies for being a stick-in-the-mud, not my normal stance, wandeted in off a workwear forum 🙂
Black jeans are nothing new – Levi’s has been selling them since around 1903. But I appreciate black denim doesn’t have the richness of colour you get with indigo. It’s a different look, you lose that variation and richness.
It’s interesting you think the leg line is so slim – it’s actually wider than almost every pair of jeans I’ve ever featured. Of course, tighter jeans also have their own style and traditions.
As to denim hanging, really it’s too dense a cotton to drape, particularly in a jeans weight. It’s not like most other cottons in that respect. And there’s no reason it should expose ankles – easy to anticipate that when you hem them.
I think the fit looks great on you so horses for courses I guess – although who am I to disagree with “Lee Wrangler” when it comes to denim matters!
Hmmmm, not sure I agree Simon.
Black jeans have plenty of depth but not if warp and weft color are the same which is why my preference is to have weft white.
Drape does indeed improve with fullness, as with any clotb.
To my eye these jeans appear a good inch or so too short and would be lmore congruent if they were wider and covered more sock.
Its all about preference though and if it makes you happy you should wear it in good health 🙂
Thank you.
Yes understood on the warp/weft, just a different aesthetic.
Drape will of course improve, it’s just a relatively small point with denim. Compared to most fabrics, it doesn’t really drape much in any cut.
Certainly can see how someone would want them longer, I was just saying it’s not necessarily connected to width.
I wonder if they appear slimmer because black tricks the eye that way (hence, slimming black) while white sport coats and trousers always look large even if they are the same size as other colour items.
Yes, good point, very possibly
Interesting to hear about the instore alterations. Do you – or anyone else – know if they also do that for other items? I’m thinking shirt sleeve shortening in particular.
I don’t think they do, but I’ll ask Ben in the store
Hi there Rob,
We can certainly alter the sleeve length, though, this is not done in-house by ourselves in London, unlike the jeans hemming; not at the moment anyway.
Feel free to drop me an email and we can discuss anything you might require.
Did you wear a belt with jeans because this denim is much smarter in colour than any other denim you have had or has your opinion with regards to it changed?
No change in opinion, I just felt like this outfit could do with something else going on – a focus point and a variation of texture. If I was wearing a strongly patterned jacket, or a big scarf, I might have felt that less
Hi, I have been thinking about black jeans for a while but what has stopped me is uncertainty regarding how to pair them with other pieces. I would probably go for a more standard black/grey denim. You mention your friends wear them with navy could you elaborate on what sort of navy (i.e. jumpers, jackets or coats)? Also, is this something that would go with grey herringbone jacketing? Thank you!
Navy is great with that colour, and easiest with knitwear. But it also works with jackets and coats too.
It’s also good with grey herringbone jacketing, I would just make sure to add some muted colour somewhere – so maybe not a white shirt, maybe a blue or denim, maybe a dark-brown suede or cordovan shoe, rather than black
Hi Simon – I have slowly noticed over the last month or so that boutique clothing manufacturers are using gerunds to describe products that are properly nouns. Now I see (possibly late in the day) that you’re up to it, too. When did this happen and can you explain this interesting transformation?
I hope you don’t take this as cynical, I’m simply confused, not critical.
Um, sure, but I have no idea when or why. I doubt many do, do they? Language doesn’t usually work like that
It’s not an epidemic but AFAIK it’s been happening around Chiltern Street lately. I hope that don’t make this point pedantically but in the interest of better communication.
…that I* don’t…
I suspect the semantic drift comes from the usage of gerunds to describe the materials from which a product is made (a suit is made from suiting, a jacket from jacketing). Hence the usage to describe the article from the material is a form of metonym (jacketing for jacket), albeit one which circles back to the orginal root (over there is a rack of things made from the material which is used to make jackets).
Properly, “shirting” refers to the cloth used to make shirts rather than the garment itself. “Jacketing” is undocumented in dictionaries so a neologism inspired by “shirting.” I don’t think “trousering” would fly as easily though!
Simon (and others), loosely related: what’s your opinion on Dawson Denim? Specifically, vis Full Count or BHL (Sorry, re-treading an unanswered question I asked on your ‘Quality Jeans’ article). The throes of the next denim purchase, and obviously can’t make my own mind up…
These jeans look really beautiful. Double black jeans are always a nice variation.
Whilst I really like the look of indigo jeans and loafers I’m definitely not as keen on it here – but I do like (even if I wouldn’t wear) Ethan Newton’s raw hem jeans with the slippers with the greater contrast.
It’s funny you are doing your first pair of unsanforized denim and I just got my first pair of unsanforized denim last week, a pair of Sugar Cane 2021 in their slim tapered version. My only concern with unsanforized is the famous “leg twist.” Now I have heard you can get that with sanforized but I have never noticed it. Even in its one wash state I bought it it has a slight leg twist. Nothing crazy yet but we will see after I continue to wash.
It appears from one of your pictures you have a little of the leg twist as well. What are your thoughts on it?
It doesn’t bother me to be honest. Jeans are meant to look changed by washing and wearing – I’d see a leg twist in the same way
Mine hasn’t yet bothered me either… although some of the more extreme leg twists I have seen on Instagram certainly might. Time will tell! Cheers I like the jeans!
No worries and thanks
Simon,
Ever since I started reading PS, I’ve always liked to look at all the photos first then read the article. The first thing that jumped out to me looking through the photos was the lack of cuff on your jeans. I know reason why, but having seen you mostly with cuffed jeans, this seemed almost novel.
I’ve got a pair of Levi’s Lot 1’s in black which, exactly as you state, have white/black in the warp/weft (really a dark grey at the moment after one wash). I think the colour has been fantastic as an alternative to my indigo jeans. I have no hesitation in pairing them with a white (more like off-white) or even black PS t-shirt. I do currently have mine cuffed and therefore the visual ‘look’ is slightly different by the cuff breaking the line between jeans and footwear, but still, I’m really pleased that I did go to ‘black’ denim.
Looking at the first picture,I thought ‘that’s going to be a challenge ‘ as it’s really dark and I’m not sure such a large colour block suited you.
But, I can see how it acquires depth once it Fades and becomes more user friendly .
Admittedly, I use dark denim quite often. I prefer it to indigo.
Interesting piece considering your usually sceptical stance towards black jeans. I seem to be the opposite. The jeans, I wear most often are a washed-out black. I find they pair well with anything grey (e.g. grey Shetland, rollneck, cardigan), navy (e.g. a navy blouson) or a light blue and even white oxford/flannel/denim shirt on the top. It is somewhat more complicated with shoes, but black Chelsea boots, black rough-suede boots from C&J, white canvas sneakers and even very dark brown suede chukkas work quite well, I think. So I consider the colour black for jeans as rather versatile, especially when it is the washed-out kind.
Yes I’m certainly being converted when it comes to black jeans. The snob in me does wish they were less prevalent in poor cuts, but then again other shades of denim are even more prevalent.
Interesting that they use black on both the warp and the weft. This makes them more appealing to me as I’m not that fond of greyish ‘black’ jeans (that colour works great for denim shirts though). I wonder if buying pre-washed and washing them often early would help to preserve their ‘blackness’/darkness ?
I don’t think it would on my experience Noel. That is a way to avoid getting the fade marks from creasing etc, but the body would still fade pretty quickly, as mine have.
Simon have brycelands tried to make their jeans for a more western build, compared to Japanese repro workwear type offerings? If so do you know what they tried to change?
With jeans, after wearing bespoke trousers do you find them uncomfortable to wear? I sometimes do wear them for the look but after wearing trousers which are made to fit me I end up tugging and shuffling around in them as they are never quite right. The article on the Italian industrialists made me smile as it mentioned them wearing jeans with sports coats, but the funny thing is that jeans aren’t more comfortable than bespoke trousers) I can only surmise the Italian industrialists didn’t wear them for comfort but perhaps to prove a point, perhaps even to make themselves look for like a regular joe. Perhaps appearing excessively wealthy in the struggling 1970s Italy wasn’t the smartest political move)
On comfort, it’s an interesting concept. I find jeans very comfortable, but it depends a lot by what you mean by it – see article here
The fit is certainly a very good one for a larger, western build. As I mentioned in the piece, they have a little fullness through the hips rather than being quite as straight, which helps hugely, as does the higher rise. When I try on most modern jeans they’re just too slim, particularly in the hips, and the lower rise means they ride down constantly. I’d suggest you try the fit of these, of Rubato, or something like the Full Count Hartford (though the latter has a much wider leg)
Thanks for the recommendations Simon. On the Fullcount Hartford, do you know what no they are? There are no names of models displayed that I can see on the usual sellers websites.
Sorry, that should have been Dartford, 1341-0105, on Clutch here
I’m surprised that you linked to the main Brycelands website rather than the London one. The converted price for the 933 black jeans on the former is £313 whilst the latter is £259, a significant difference of £54. Shipping costs will increase the difference too, especially for those who lived in the UK or EU.
Thanks Gary, I’d forgotten the UK one was now live – it’s been coming for a while!
Now changed, and for everyone reading this in the comments, it’s here.
Jumping from cm to inches always makes my head spin. For clarity best to stick with one unit of measurement when discussing these things i feel.
On a slightly different points Simon, i know in the past that you have made a point of saying that articles/ reviews cannot be bought/ paid for on PS – and that you consider this to be a major point of difference with other fashion publications. It is implied therefor that this is a mark of integrity or independence that that sets you apart somewhat. I was wondering however where the your friendships and personal relationships come into this. Obviously you are independent and you don’t – as far as i am aware – have investors and therefor what you publish is entirely down to your own discretion. But what reassurance can you provide to the readers that although you don’t take money for your reviews you don’t give personal friends favourable and more prominent coverage? We are assured reviews are reliable as they are not covertly paid for but how can we be sure you aren’t promoting a friends business as a favour or gesture of goodwill and that this personal relationship does not skew your conclusions? You could quite reasonably say that this is my site and i publish what i like but i feel that since a fair amount of column inches have been dedicated to the stating this sites integrity its a valid question.
Hey Jordan,
Sure, it is a valid question, and actually it’s often a harder area for me – it’s a lot more difficult being honest publicly about a friend than it is about a brand you know less well (even if the latter could make more of a difference commercially).
I can say, however, that I take real pains to not give anyone any favours. The reputation of PS and what it does is too important, and actually all my friends recognise this. If they are friends, and we know each other well enough, they know how much this matters to me and as a result wouldn’t even ask for special treatment. I can’t remember a time when anyone has.
As with most of the impartiality points, it’s really not possible to prove this, you just have to judge from the quality of the content – if I were writing about friends because they were friends, I think it would quickly show through in how I wrote about them. It would also be obvious when readers saw and tried the product in person if I weren’t being honest about it.
As ever, thanks for the opportunity to talk about this.
Cheers
Thanks for clarifying. I guess i was asking less about a scenario whereby they asked but more a conscious or unconscious urge on your part to be supportive of a friend. It would be a natural instinct to do so of course. I would also question how far down the negative route you would go, even if you felt it, knowing the potential damage it could cause to their livelihood. I think this bias is unavoidable and however hard you may try to counter it , it would still be present to a greater or lesser extent. That being said i guess its unavoidable and so as long as you are conscious of it and rain it in as far as possible thats probably all you can do. I also appreciate that perhaps with many of these people your friendship has resulted from an appreciation of their product or business in the first instance and perhaps the friendship is therefor a result of the positive review rather than the other way around.
In terms of content i feel the site has definitely shifted towards a more retail/ RTW viewpoint. I find this slightly less insightful as it doesn’t tell me much i couldn’t go and find out for myself by going into the shop and obtaining the same information – as i do. I must say i enjoyed the behind the curtain aspect of the coverage from a PS gone by with tailors being far less accessible and certainly not browsable in the way allot of the current covered is.
Thank you Jordan. Obviously most readers can’t visit all these places, particularly when they are international, but even with a frequent visitor like yourself I hope an informed experience of a product such as the jeans here, or a visit to the manufacture of a ready-made brand gives you an insight and added flavour you couldn’t otherwise get.
On the favouring of friends, I think this point is actually always quite upfront in our minds, because we both know how important what the other person is to them. And negative things come up all the time, as it’s rare I’d ever like everything someone makes. Eg there are lots of things I’ve said about how I love Anglo-Italian, but Jake knows there are things I don’t like, such as their jeans, I’ve talked about that publicly. Equally with Saman and Dag, and writing about how their trousers haven’t worked for me. Same on Stoffa and their flight jacket, with Brycelands and the bigger-collar shirts etc etc.
Of course, it’s rare that there will be a very negative review of a whole brand, as there has been with some makers in the past. But to be honest I’m not sure I’m friends with anyone that I don’t respect professionally in that way. I doubt I’d get to know them well enough if I didn’t.
On the subject of black jeans, I saw that nudie jeans offered “black forever” jeans. How on earth?…
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this article. You’ve certainly de-risked a potential purchase for your readers.
All the best.
This ensemble is casual, sophisticated & looks very relaxed! The Alden’s perfectly compliment the look as well!
Denim really is a strong suit for Brycelands and stands out even among their other high level offerings. I am looking forward to breaking out my 933s in white pique this spring. Hard to find a properly proportioned white jean these days especially for wear with tailoring but these fit the bill.
https://husbands-paris.com/boutique/jean-droit-taille-haute-blanc/
As a slight aside, Have you tried the Brycelands Frogged front shirt?I think it’s a great looking piece but I’m just not sure how it would fit into my wardrobe.
I got one at the end of last summer, didn’t get much of a chance to wear it. I’ll see what I find I wear it with when the weather warms up. Maybe like this, with floppy trousers
I see Ethan and Kenji often wear theirs tucked in with tailoring. That’s probably the look I’d go for personally.
That can look nice, though having the pockets tucked in feels a little strange to me, and it is thick linen even without that layer of the pockets
I like breaking in raw denim, but unless I cover my furniture in sheets, and shower every time I wear them., everything turns blue. Or black in this case!
I think Anglo-Italian’s black jeans are a good example of the washed, faded, grey-black denim you mention:
https://angloitalian.com/collections/sporting-1/products/aic-denim-black-wash-jeans
I really like them and find them quite versatile. But they’re definitely a different approach than the Brycelands denim featured here.
The jeans looks really nice. Perfect color. I am looking for something similar but rather in the straight cut of a vintage 501, maybe even a touch slimmer as my legs are skinny. Any suggestions? I feel like most “quality “ denim brands do not make slimmer fit.
I think the Real McCoys black jeans are pretty slim
Very interesting color of jeans that i didnt imagine it going well with many other clothes. The sweater is also very nice. What i find a little away from my taste is the combinations with the specific loafers. Id certainly choose chunkier for this type of casual wear but its just a personal taste.
I find it surprising that some readers put those alden loafers in a category that is not chunky and casual. To my eye (even on the Aberdeen last) they are clearly both in comparison to a dress loafer like a Belgravia etc.
I find them really nice shoes but i prefer alden 986 or Larson 90 Weejuns. I dont wear much tailoring and both of them look a lot more casual to me.
tell me more about watch plz?
whoops missed the link
Could you please tell me what socks those are, Simon? I like how neatly they transition the jeans to the loafers. Thank you.
They’re actually TM Lewin! There’s an interesting PS post to write there at some point
Thank you. Words I never thought I’d write, but I’d love to see a post on socks in the future. The way these ones carry the texture of the jeans into the cordovan just seems to work well.
I couldn’t agree more, Stephen! There is something unique about the socks and truly a lynchpin between the jeans and the shoes. Sorry I missed this comment before as I’d posted the same question. Looking forward to that sock article which is a great sentence to type.
Just building on from some of the comments here, perhaps you can follow this up with some black jeans outfit ideas. Ones that don’t look too Saint Laurent or too Western. You’ve avoided both associations successfully here. I have a pair of black jeans (jet black at the moment), but struggle to pair them with the right shoes or outerwear.
One already done ready for next week, Zo. See what you think there from the advice and can certainly do more
The world has forgot about us 37″ inch waist guys. Always creates a problem when ordering without trying on first. Damn..!!
It will take a lot (and I do mean a lot) to get me to part with my Mott and Bow jeans. They are the most comfortable pairs I’ve ever owned. And that’s going back six decades now.
I notice the Rubato sweater is described as “old size large”. Has the sizing/cut of these changed since they were originally introduced?
Slightly, less. The fit is a little more moderate – a touch longer in the body, a little less extreme in the taper from chest to waist. It works for more people now I think
Great, thank you
Simon- do you find the L in the Rubato knits tight enough in the waist to stay snug, even after a few wears? I’ve seen you wear M and L’s so was curious where you shook out on the best fit. Thanks.
In that respect yes, they both do well
Hi All,
I have a pair of black jeans by Orslow. Great fit and style.
Regards,
Andrew
Great article! How would you compare the overall quality (cloth, handiwork) with companies like Rubato and Blackhorse Lane?
Of the jeans? Handwork doesn’t really come into it, but on the denim I’d say these feel a little different to the others – softer but with a nice body. I’d say Rubato and most of the Blackhorse Japanese range feel more similar. All very good quality Japanese denim though
Thanks as always a good read. Just to pick the length of the jeans in my opinion it is one or two inches short. Also since it is selvedge jeans would you prefer the jeans a bit longer and fold it so that selvedge ID is visible ?
I can see maybe an inch at the most, but I’m pretty happy with this. You change a half inch or so over wear with wrinkles etc anyway – you can’t be too precious/precise with jeans in that way.
I definitely don’t care about showing the selvedge. If they’re quality jeans that’s what shows rather than a marker of what it’s meant to be. I am planning to wear them down like this nearly all the time, as I want that cleaner look with these, but yes I could have had them longer and folded up for something more casual/different if I’d wanted
Hi Simon,
Can you imagine these jeans working with the sawtooth westerner shirt (indigo variant) ? And again the same question for when the jeans fade to grey ?
Thanks for the interesting review.
Thanks. Yes I think that could be nice, though it would be a slightly more showy look with the double denim.
I think it would be less nice with grey – a pale denim/chambray might be better then
Hi Simon,
I was curious which socks you’re wearing? I really like that color and didn’t see then noted in the summary of what you’re wearing. Thanks!
See above in comment from Stephen, Michael.
Simon – what are some of the navy/black jean combinations you reference? Would love some points of reference.
I’ll try and include some images in a future post – not that hard to imagine though I guess, just the kind of faded black jean you get on the high street, with a dark navy crewneck
Hi Simon, could I ask what size you wear for the Rubato belt?
Many thanks,
Jack
Surely it’s completely dependent on your waist size Jack? Id suggest it’s better to just measure your waist or comparable belt. There aren’t really sizing complexities here
Does the belt have to be wider than the waist measurement? Some suggest going up a size, so I was wondering whether this also applies to Rubato one.
Often yes, but it’s worth going through the brand as it varies a bit between them
Thank you, Simon
Hello Simon,
Bryceland’s black jeans look good! I really like black denim and have a couple of pair of black jeans myself. I have to point out that, unfortunately, the belt you are wearing is to narrow for this type of jeans. Exotic skins can look really good on denim, but for that the belt needs to be bolder and wider.
On a side note, I am a bit baffled by Ethan’s decision to go all-in on denim. Surely there must be a dozen fantastic Japanese denim shops with in a 5 mile radius of Bryceland’s Tokyo store which would satisfy any specific/rare denim needs one could have – and most of these brands have really good online shops as well. Has Bryceland’s denim range been created for those who are a bit intimidated by the ‘denim head’ scene?
Cheers Kalleblomquist
Hey,
Thanks. The belt is at best a subjective point though I think. A slim one looks great to me, and of course also does on Ethan.
In terms of denim, I think this is really in the wheelhouse of what makes Brycelands great. There is other denim out there, lots of it, but it’s often informed by tailoring when it comes to fit and style, plus it isn’t a repro-like as most Japanese brands.
I’ve tried every jean in Clutch, Son of a Stag, Rivet & Hide etc in London, which must be most of them, and these are the best fit. I also don’t think it’s a coincidence that the other great fit comes from Rubato, who have similar tailoring influences
Of course it is subjective 🙂
I think you have a point when it comes to choice of fits with Japanese denim brands. for all the variety in types of denim, they are often limited to 2-3 different fits. and if your body shape / taste differs than you are out of luck.
Personally I only shop Nudie jeans these days as they are the only mainstream brand I know which aims to provide full transparency on its entire supply chain which allows the customer to make educated decisions on sustainability impact of their supply chain. Plus they offer repair services at their shops – which in turn supports a more sustainable product lifecycle. Unfortunately that is still the absolute exceptions in fashion and especially in denim.
Yes, very true.
Not to knock Nudie at all – I really admire what they do – but it’s interesting how larger brands have to publish that kind of transparency, and talk about it, whereas smaller brands like the ones we more normally cover simply have one factory, or their own factory, so there is quite a lot of transparency already.
These look amazing and I’m sorely tempted. However, I’ve recently bought a pair of Japanese unsanforized indigo jeans, from Rivet and Hyde, and the control freak in me is not enjoying the whole process. I haven’t washed them yet, want to wait a month or two, and I’m worried about length and fit after the first wash. Length I guess will be fine as Rivet and Hyde can take them up to my preferred length once they’ve shrunk, not sure how for around my waist, thighs and calves will work out.
The whole process feels anathema to bespoke, though I appreciate that quality denim is lovely.
True Paul, it’s more a RTW approach to getting a more personal fit, with the idea that they adapt to you. Much easier when it’s the cultural norm. Remember some alterations are possible on jeans later too if needed
Hello, Simon. Continue to love all of your writing and content. Wish I was in the UK to come by the pop-up! I’m curious if you could share your sizing thoughts on the Rubato and Bryceland’s denim. I believe we are roughly a similar size and build based on our past conversations, and I’m curious how you ended up sizing in each. I’m roughly an 85 cm true waist and typically wear a 32 in most denim and trousers. 6 ft, 170 lbs.
Cheers!
Hey Wilson,
Sure, happy to help. I have a 32 in the Rubato and in the Bryceland’s. The Rubato I found gives a little bit – the 32 felt a little tight at first, but gave nicely. That was definitely the right choice. Bryceland’s is a little trickier, being unsanforised, but I comment at length on that in the piece above – let me know if anything there wasn’t clear?
S
Certainly very helpful. I believe you have also said that you took a 48 in the officer chino, as well? Do you have experience with the standard denim Bryceland’s 133? Or just the black?
Yes that’s right on the Officer Chino. I don’t own the 133, but I’m told the top block is exactly the same, so they should fit the same in the waist
Simon…I believe I read on a separate Rubato thread that you took a 33 in their denim. Do you have both a 32 and 33? I’m similar to you in feeling that the 32 feels a little snug right now, but you mention that it gives a bit. Curious if you have both sizes and what your experience was? Cheers!
Sorry about the link Wilson, though the ones pictured are black, not navy
Hey Simon,
Thanks for the review. Does the jeans have a high color transfer to other clothing? (e.g. on light wool sweaters or white canvas shoes).
I find this is very annoying with most raw jeans.
I haven’t found so, no
Great. Thank you.
Hi Simon!
I am looking for a decent chain stitch hemming service in Europe apart from super stitch in Paris. Maybe you and/or your readers can point me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance!
Philipp
Clutch Cafe do it in London, and so does Son of a Stag. Or do you mean continental Europe?
Hi!
Yes, I meant continental Europe.
Thanks!
Ah I see, then I’m out I’m afraid. Hopefully a reader or two will know somewhere
https://dc4.de/chain-stitching.html
It’s in Berlin,but have no idea of quality . I’ve not used them.
Cheers Peter
Thank you!
1) The fit looks very similar to the rubato jeans (also the size chart confirms this) , did you notice much difference?
2) I must admit that I still don’t fully understand the difference in fit between the raw and the one wash version. They are both unsanforized, so the difference is basically this one rinse. I owned both versions from Levi’s Vintage Clothing and I did not notice any difference. The fading might be different if you wait a long time before the first wash, but the fabric and how it reacts to repeated wash and wear was identical as far as I could tell.
2) My size 32 rubato was always pretty much perfect for me, but I lost a little bit of weight this spring and was wearing them a lot in recent months, so they are a bit loose in the waist now (at least for my taste). I now ordered a size 31 as well from rubato, because I am curious if this works as well for me as a different look. Do you think there is an argument to own two sizes of the same jeans you really like? The slightly relaxed one for comfortable/drapey outfits and weekends with the kids and one smaller fit when you want something more sexy/sharp/etc. (I ask mainly because I would guess that your vintage 501 also gives you a slightly different look and feel compared to your Fullcount dartford for example.)
Thanks
1) They’re a little higher in the rise, a little looser in the leg, but not a lot
2) Yes the fading is one reason, but another is the adaptation of the fit, which some people like. The denim shrinks more and then gives more, adapting to you. And the rinse takes a lot of shrinkage out, so the rinsed one isn’t really unsanforised in any effective way then
3) Yes I think there’s an argument there, though I think it would be from two more different fits than that – one rather more relaxed than just an inch size difference makes
Simon, on other pages your waist size is stated as 34 inch. Is that correct? I’m asking because I have a 34 inch waist too and since you picked the 32 I might go for it as well then (even though the Brycelands Team is suggesting a 33 or even 34). Was the washed 33 way too lose around the waist? Thanks
My waist measures 34, maybe 33, but I wear a 32 in most trousers Veit. Which one did you mean?
I mean the model described here (The Bryceland’s Denim 933 Black). I have to make a choice between the 32 and 33. Given my waist measures 34 too and I would like to fit them the way they fit you on the pictures, I tend to go for the 32 you picked, although purely following the measurement charts on the Bryceland’s site this should be too small in the waist (both washed and unwashed). Their team suggested a 33 or 34, but I guess a 34 would be way too large. You stated that the 33 was a little loose, was this a minor issue and you could still wear the 33 feeling well in them or was it a no go for you? Thanks
I wasn’t asking about the model Veit, I was asking whether you were talking about the actual measurement of your waist, or about the size of jeans you usually are. The two are quite different usually (for me, 34 and 32).
I would say that the measurement charts on the website don’t take into account a little stretch back after washing, as you wear them and make them adapt to you. But I could have worn a 33, yes, and if you’re unsure I would take the 33, probably not the 34. Ideally of course you would try on the washed version, which of course is what I was able to do.
Yep I meant the actually waist measurement. Thanks for the tips, very helpful! One last question: Would you say you could gain about an inch more at your waist and the 32 would still fit you or have you reached a limit there?
It’s hard to say, but a little bit certainly, yes
Besides colour-8 cordovan and black shoes, what other shoe colours could work with these and other casual black trousers (i.e. corduroy), Simon?
Very dark brown can work with tailored black trousers, if it is very dark – see here.
With black jeans, when they fade more (more than these, eg Levi’s here) then brown suede is also really nice. Plus things like cream tennis shoes
Hi simon have you tried d the bryceland easy jackets? Any plans to review it? Looks like a good unstructured jacket in the same category (perhaps more sartorial) as drakes games jacket.
Also i know you upped your size in the sawtooth shirt. Do you now wear a 40 or 42?
I have briefly, but I can try to do something more on it, yes.
I actually have a 40 and a 42 (quite the luxury, though one was second hand) and I wear the 40 under a jacket, the 42 more like an overshirt
That would be nice simon thanks
Hey simon ive been keen on a sawtooth shirt in a lighter weight fabric (not the denim one) that i can wear to work iwith chinos n a very casual office setting. Do you think the below will work or is the plain chambray better in that regard? https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/shirts-1/products/brycelands-sawtooth-westerner-dobby?variant=43983689318620
I think the chambray would be safer, but it depends on your style too. The combination of westerner make and dobby pattern makes the shirt quite unusual – very cool, but unusual
Hi Simon. When it comes to make would you prefer black denim jeans from Blackhorse Lane or from Brycelands? As the price range is relatively same and both offer raw black denim. Thx Henry
I wouldn’t prefer either on make, but I prefer the Bryceland’s denim and cut
New Rubato jeans seem to be this sort of true black rather than grey:
https://www.atemporubato.com/en-us/products/lot-nr-1-denim-black
Just ordered a pair as I’ve been curious to test out a pair of true black jeans since reading this article. I look forward to wearing them with Rubato cool-toned, earthy knits.
Yes but they wouldn’t be grey as they’re not pre-distressed, or stone washed, or anything else, right? The question is what will they be like after a handful of washes. If it’s most black Japanese denims, they will fade to that grey
Well, I thought part of your point in this article was that a lot of “black” jeans use a black warp and white weft, whereas the Brycelands ones use black for both, creating a “true black.”
Ah yes, true sorry. That does make a difference, I was just thinking about some Italian black denims which hardly fade at all
Does anyone know whether Rubato will bring back the alligator belt?
I don’t know, Thomas. Have you asked them?
Hi Simon, I would like to know why you prefer Bryceland’s jeans over Rubato’s. As I understand, there is no difference in terms of quality, and you have definitely tried both. I’m currently in the market for black denim jeans and can’t decide. What would you suggest considering for someone in my situation? Additionally, I own Rubato’s lambswool knitwear and like the fit.
I would say the only significant difference is that the Bryceland’s rise is a touch higher
Hey Simon,
Have you ever used or do you know much about the Bryceland’s MTM offering in London?
I am very tempted, since their style is highly considered. It’s kind of like the best of The Anthology and W.W Chan combined and handmade and finished in HK by W.W Chan. Hard not to see the appeal, especially with a fairly reasonable price-point.
However, I’m a tad apprehensive about the process. At least with MTM via anglo-italian, you know the guys there are real tailors. Are the team measuring you up at Bryceland’s proficient in this regard? Or are they just passionate salesmen with checklists that they send back to HK?
I’d hate to spend 2.5K on a beautifully tailored suit that doesn’t account for my sloping shoulders, or sit comfortably at the neck etc etc.
Do you have any insight into their work?
Cheers
I’m afraid I don’t Jackson, sorry. I can try to cover it in the future though
Well, I’m sure I would be very far from the only person that was interested! So if you have space in your calendar for such a suggestion, I would be a keen reader. It’s a fully handmade product, made by WW Chan. On make alone, it seems to give a vast amount of other MTM a run for it’s money. It’s just a question of whether or not the sales guys working in store can collaborate with WW Chan to the requisite standard.
I’m told that a lot of the process is reliant on the detailed photos they send to WW Chan whilst you wear one of their pinned house block examples. Does this sound like potentially cause for concern to you? Or not necessarily ?
Not necessarily, no. With MTM it’s all about what system works best for the shop and the maker
Hey Simon,
Please forgive my treating you like PS’s service desk, but is there any chance you could direct Manish to this comment? I’m aware he has a MTM suit from WW Chan via Bryceland’s, and I’d love to hear what he had to say about it!
Warmly,
Jackson
No worries Jackson, I can let him know
Thank you! Looking to get info he might have on make – how much handwork he can see/knows went into it and also how it has compared to his jackets from the anthology, if he would be happy to share his inside scoop!
Hi Simon,
Please can you give us an update on how this particular pair has faded overtime?
thanks
Hey Palm – there is an article planned actually, I’ll be writing it next week
I just picked up a pair of these in Tokyo, looking forward to wearing them.
Do you have any recommendations for a black belt please? I see Rubato no longer does that model. What are your thoughts on a gold coloured vs. a silver tone buckle?
Thanks very much.
I don’t have any others I’m afraid. I generally prefer a solid brass buckle, so gold toned
Do you think Bryceland’s black P13 pants would work with a pair of color-8 cordovan Aldens? I see they regularly style them with the olives, but black never.
I really dig the punk/rock kinda aesthetic Bryceland’s comes with, man. It’s really cool. Some of their outfits remind of me of the kinda gear Keith Richards would wear in the ’90s. What other brands do you know that make clothes like them? My only issue with them is their lack of options. There’re like four shirts/four pants/four jackets.
Well, the attitude isn’t necessarily the same, but you’ll find similar influences and a similar quality of product with Japanese brands like The Real McCoy’s and Buzz Rickson etc, sold through shops like Clutch Cafe and Son of a Stag.
They don’t have the same styling, but you can use those products in the same way