In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting.

Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang straight.

Jackets are less restrictive, for while it’s still useful to have some body (and drape) to the material, a sharp crease is not required.

And – just as importantly – there is more structure in the pad and canvas to support that cloth.

It’s probably worth reading our previous installment in this series, therefore – the guide to Summer Trouser Cloths – before reading this one.  

But on to summer jackets.

The options for a summer jacket are broadly the same as with trousers: linen, cotton, wools that are particular for their weave or yarn, and mixes.


Hopsack jacket by Elia Caliendo

Let’s start with wool, for if a summer jacket can be made to work in wool, it has many knock-on benefits (resistance to wrinkling, recovery from wear etc).

Generally, a lightweight wool will be made more breathable and therefore cooler by using an open weave.

It’s hard to have an open weave with summer trousers, because a loose wave loses its shape much more easily. They can be a nightmare to cut, in particular, and can suffer from seam slippage.

But in a jacket, an open weave works well. A high-twist yarn also goes some way to mitigate the looseness of the weave.


Mesh jacket by Ettore de Cesare

The classic weave style for a summer wool jacket is hopsack.

Hopsack, of course, is the name of the weave and nothing else – so hopsacks may vary hugely in terms of the yarn they use (weight, twist), the closeness of the weave and so on.

But in general, a hopsack or hopsack-like weave will work well for a summer jacket. The weave style is essentially an enlarged plain weave, and other versions of a plain weave can also work.

(A plain weave is better than, say, a twill because it uses less wool per inch and is therefore lighter. See our post on Weaves and Designs for more detail.

From a style point of view, it’s also important to note that you generally want some texture in the jacket, to separate it from the trousers and remove any suggestion that it is one half of a suit.

For that reason, it’s worth picking the weave with the most texture – which may well not be a hopsack, but a similar plain weave. (Sometimes referred to as a mesh.)


Nine-ounce linen by Langa

Linen is perhaps the ultimate summer jacketing material in terms of coolness.

It is cool to the touch, breathes well, and has an elegant rumple to it.

However, that rumpling is the thing that can put some people off – either because it is too informal, or because they plain don’t like it.

One difference to note between jackets and trousers is that is is easier to get away with lightweight linens in a jacket.

So you can more easily opt for 8 or 9-ounce linens, and those with a looser weave. Where their softness might make a trouser rather shapeless, a jacket is less restricted and has the support of pad and canvas.


Cotton jacket by Elia Caliendo

Cotton, despite its lack of stretch, can be an effective and modern option for a summer jacket.

Cottons used for tailoring are light and cool, and where they can wrinkle unattractively in a trouser, this is less of an issue in a jacket.

It can be a ‘modern’ option because of the way cotton ages, often losing colour at the edges and other wear points, and making it look lived-in very quickly.

Darker colours will show this effect quicker than light ones, and garment-dyed jackets (eg Boglioli) are often specifically created to have the effect from day one.


Wool/silk/linen jacket (left) from Anglo-Italian

Last, and for my money best, is a wool/linen/silk mix.

This type of cloth has been offered for decades by the Italian merchants like Drapers and Caccioppoli, but only began to appear in the UK in the past 5-8 years.

The advantage of using three different fibres, in a variety of yarns and weaves, is that a precise and targeted effect can be achieved: the exact amount of lightness, body, and texture.

So a jacketing in a wool/linen/silk mix tends to hang better than a pure linen, have more texture than a pure wool, and look smarter than a pure cotton.

The silk can add lustre or shine if desired, and the linen more or less slubbiness to the texture – for something a touch more casual, than blurs the different colours, and that obviously separates it from the trousers.

The only technical note here is that readers shouldn’t pay too much attention to the proportions of all three fibres in the cloth.

Although that is important, the actual effect can heavily depend on the type of weave, the yarn count and the weave. Two cloths might have 50% and 15% silk respectively, but the latter appear more silky and shiny, for example.

Instead, feel the cloth and consider how stiff or soft it is (stiffer cloths will tend to hang more cleanly) and look at the texture and consider how rough or smooth it is (and therefore broadly, how casual or formal).

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Hi Simon,

I’ve missed some interesting cloths in your post: What about the 100% Bamboo that HFW offers?

I’ve seen some wool and linen cloths that are worth considering, their lack of silk make them more subtle than the usual wool, silk and linen mixes. What’s your opinion on them?



I have several bamboo jackets. Light, cool, crease resistant, interesting textures.

What’s not to like?


Hi Simon,

thank you for the quick overlook.

I was wondering what cloth you would recommend to you use for business summer suits?

I’am working in commercial real estate and have to follow a certain dress code so no combinations, loud colors or textures allowed.

Thanks in advance!




How do they differ and which would you recommend and why?


Any comments on hemp? Similar to linen I suppose? Delfino have some bunches 100% and mixes.


Just something I noticed on the jackets from Anglo-Italian. What’s that stitching on the buttonhole?


I am not fan of the cotton jackets.
In the summer, people sweat more than usual and cotton tends to start smelling very fast. Shirts can be washed after each wear, but for jackets this would be unpractical. And this makes me very sceptical regarding cotton jackets.
Wool on the other side could be aired during the night and would not smell.

RTL peasant

Dear Simon, In your interview of Richard Anderson you discussed frequency and disadvantages of chemical dry cleaning, which I guess is inexpensive in UK. Hristo judges washing smelly cotton jackets unpractical, but doesn’t explain. Do you take for granted cotton jackets can be washed? Are your bespoke cotton jackets washable? The only RTL cotton jackets I’ve seen which are washable are ugly ones by Brook Taverner and one Gurteen model. Were cotton Gurteen on closer inspection a bad investment?

RTL disco sweater with sensitive nose

Dear Simon,
I value your endorsement of cotton although you have the best clothes beyond my present reach. Since I don’t have a cotton jacket (besides Gurteen washable, I have my eye on Oliver Brown and Regent Tailoring), disco dancing is sweaty, not necessarily smelly. My nose is hybrid canine. Online viewing ain’t the same as first-hand inspection. Linen creases, cotton may be the answer.

Too much television mind damage

Correction: RTW


Hi Simon,

what’s your opinion about mixed fabrics? In particular I refer to the Holland and Sherry wool/teclana mixes from their summer variety bunch.



Hi Simon, how tailored should a summer jacket be? In general should a jacket be taken in at the sides a little if necessary or because it’s informal can it be worn less tailored?


Big fan of the more technical posts like this

1. Any experience with heat-resistant finishes like those Zegna claims for their Cool Effect and Elements Trofeo Summer wools? I’ve never worn them outside but am skeptical that they’re cooler than the silk/linen/wool mixes. Zegna also makes fully lined jackets with them, seemingly defeating their purpose.

2. For me, once it gets above 80 F (~25 C), wearing a jacket outdoors becomes totally uncomfortable no matter its material. This whole summer suiting business is perpetuating a culture of stiff upper lipping serious back sweat and body odor to all of our detriments.


I have had a zegna trofeo wool suit years ago and never had a better suit for hot summer days since. It was lined.

Don Ferrando

Dear Simon,
thank you for this article which confirms my choice for summer time.
I was two cotton suits, one DB one 3 piece SB, Bothe light colors. Then 2 linen jackets ti wear wig odd trousers. Also I love to wear ma wool suit made from Zegna Tropical wth is very cool even on hot summer days.
Looking forward to your next story on Napoli artisans.
PS Going to Tuscany this week and maybe try to visit the P Johnson factory in Carrara to find out some details.


No word about wool/mohair?


I have a fresco blazer and find it very usefull. I know in your post about trouser cloth you recommend it rather for trousers than jackets, but I think I’ll order another one for next summer 🙂


Hi Simon,
Always interesting to read your view on such a topic!
I have two questions:
1) What is your take on the différences between classic hopsack & mesh, in terms of wearability, versatility, etc.
2) Since I still struggle to find out the right fabric – other than cotton – that would go with linen jackets, I would greatly appreciate if you could be more specific as to the kind of wool, say, one should be considering, or rather anything that could upgrade an outfit with a linen jacket as a key piece.


What about Solaro? I never saw any but I believe it is for summer jackets (or suits?).

Nick Inkster

You could also look at H&S Mesh as a great cloth for a summer blazer.


What colors would you recommend for a summer jacket?


Thanks for the link. No, I’m not new here, but I’m looking for a versatile, I guess smart casual, jacket. I already have a navy one made of a cotton linen mix, and have been looking at gray linen but for some reason I haven’t been able to find one that looked right. Could it be gray linen doesn’t work? Then what would besides tan? Cream is too flashy. Would you recommend a muted green?


Just one last thing, do you also find gray doesn’t quite work with the texture of a linen jacket?


Yet didn’t you have one made by Caliendo? Was that because it looks almost oatmeal in color as opposed to a blue tinged gray?


I just don’t get this gray and green thing. Never seen it in warmer countries. Sipping my aperitivo in Florence last evening wearing pink linen, white shirt, navy chinos and brown suede loafers there was no sighting of either color. Where does the idea come from?


Too strong? Pink, white and blue?

Last night it was baby blue seersucker, navy linen shirt and blue suede driving shoes. Blended perfectly with the crowd.

You would look out of place in gray and green here.


Simon, what’s your take on camelhair (autumn/winter) jackets? I’m thinking of the new Loro Piana/Caruso “Gobigold” camelhair/wool mix. Any experience with how camelhair ages? Is it more prone to wear or “shine” when compared to, say, plain wool or cashmere? Thank you. M

Peter Matteini


can you compare pure linen with a wool mix purely in terms of heat resistance? Which one would provide better comfort during highest heat waves?

Summers are getting worse every year. Thank you for an answer.


Hi Simon

If you were to choose a colour for a linen jacket to go with jeans or chinos, what colour would it be?



Thanks. Would you say 10.5oz is too light for a linen jacket? Also, the WBill Phoenix bunch is advertised as worsted but looks more like jacketing. Have you any experience with this bunch? Is it a jacketing bunch?


One final question, do you get your linen jackets lined or unlined? I’m guessing lining would add more body but negate the cooling effects of linen.


The colour thing is interesting.

Pinks, blues, yellows, aquas etc work perfectly in the med/Adriatic/Aegean but less so in Brighton and Skegness, where the muddy grey/brown/green would look ok.

Don’t wear the muddy colours in the south, and beware of the pastel colours in the north, as both will look out of place.


Agree 100%


What’s your view on navy linen jacket with jeans? The jeans would be slightly lighter from washing but not have a tatty look. Perhaps a herringbone instead of plain.


Hi Simon,

I am aware that this is an older article, but I have discovered your site only several weeks ago and you have so many interesting articles that it takes some time to catch up.

I have recently ordered a classical 360g (12.7 oz) mid-grey single breasted suit from a tailor (it is my first tailored suit). I was wondering whether I should not order a waistcoat that I could wear during the summer time at work (without the jacket) and of course also during winter with the jacket. Do you think this would be a good alternative to a summer suit?


Simon how can you wear a linen jacket? Ive consulted my style bibles by Boyer, Flusser and not much information on the subject. Obviously you can wear a linen suit, but what trousers to combine with? Any rules to keep to? If you went cream linen jacket, can you pair with a slightly different shade of trouser? Or even Chinos?

Also, I heard someone mention a linen dinner jacket. Is this even a thing?


Simon, you state cotton doesn’t stretch. The profis at Cutter & Tailor among others got annoyed when I wrote about my idea to add stretch. They insisted cotton does stretch. What do you think about cotton plus stretch 2% versus 100% cotton ?


Dear Simon,
Thanks very much for your reply – my girlfriend advocates stretch when I select RTW cotton trousers, and many RTW cotton trousers on sale are 100% cotton,
so your experience and judgment encourages me.


Hi Simon, I’m looking at a nice grey summer sports jacket from SEH Kelly – a high twist, two ply worsted tropical / summer wool, open hopsack weave (they report that you can “see the light” through it). Sleeves are lined, and the rest is half-lined I believe (buggy-lined, they call it.) Does this fit the bill in your book in terms of wearability in a summer jacket made of wool? It’s not a blend. The texture will distinguish it from being mistaken for an odd suit jacket. The grey colour mightn’t be as versatile as navy, but, I have navy, grey, beige, cream and tan trousers, so I think that side of it should be ok.


Hello Simon,
I’m interested in having a spring / summer suit made in a cream colour but have heard that linen creases and another option is a linen / wool mix that shouldn’t crease so easily. I’ve looked through some swatch books with my tailor and searched online but have found nothing suitable. Could you advise of other avenues I might hunt down for the right material? If I wanted to look through swatches belonging to Drapers or Caccioppoli, how would I find them? (I wish there was a swatch library you could visit! Perhaps that could be an add-on for your website with a kick-back from every customer re-directed to the right fabric manufacturer?!)


Any thoughts or tips on 100% silk blazer with a searsucker effect? Too lightweight to hang properly?


If one wants a cloth with silk but that does not shine too much, what kind of weave and yarn is best? For instance H&S Crystal Spring bunch has a solid brown natté with 25% silk, but I find it very shiny (and stiff) at odds with the casual weave.


Hi Simon,
I am about to commission my first summer sport jacket and thought this fabric (link below) was interesting. I was wondering if you thought it was too loud/busy for a first sport jacket and if I would be better off with a more muted grey or brown. Also, is “PA” polyester or nylon?



When having jackets made up in linen, do you have the sleeves and shoulders lined?


Hi Simon,

What are your thoughts on this cloth from Fox Brothers? It doesn’t have a silk blend, but it’s 55% Merino, 45% Linen.

The other is 100% Merino in a hopsack weave. The benefit here looks like it’ll be less wrinkling (I generally travel quite a bit for work).

How much of a difference do you think I’d see in wrinkling? Any thoughts on what would be good for a first summer jacket?

Thank you!


Thanks, Simon. I appreciate the advice. I generally like to wear a black t-shirt under my blazers, but occasionally I’ll wear a dress shirt, too. In that case, do you think the navy windowpane linked above would still work okay? I’ve read in your writings (don’t recall which piece) that you’re generally not a fan of windowpanes, but I suppose the Fox navy windowpane is quite subtle. I’ll likely get it with patch pockets, unlined, unpadded shoulders for a more casual look. Would love your thoughts. Thank you, as always.


Hi Simon,

As you’ve built up these guides, you seem to have ordered Summer Jackets (this article) before Summer Trousers in your table of contents for the series. However, at the top of this article, you refer us to read Summer Trousers before this one. Perhaps you should switch the order to have Summer Trousers first in the table of contents, and then Summer Jackets afterwards?


Hi Simon
I am really torn here. I bought some beautiful worsted light beige 130s wool and cashmere fabric, fairly lightweight 9 – 10 oz., but only enough to make a jacket (2.3m). I thought about buying enough to make a full suit but really think it is unlikely that I will ever wear a light coloured suit here where I live…and I mean ever.
So the idea was to make an odd jacket, but will it look too much like an orphaned jacket. In which case are there some different styles I could experiment with to make a casual jacket from it? Any ideas to salvage this beautiful material?


Thank you. Good idea. Perhaps pair it with cream cotton chinos….?


Hi Simon

I’m thinking of having the below cloth made up into a Neapolitan jacket. Do you think it would go with Crispaire trousers or something similar (fresco)? My concern is that the textures may be too similar. My concern is that it may look like I’ve mixed two suits.


Thanks for the speedy response. I already have a mid grey pair of Crispaire, so there’s enough contrast. I guess the alternative would be a 100% linen jacket to go with the Crispaires. Thoughts?


As always thanks for your help. I guess if I’m going with this cloth and Crispaire, rather than texture, contrast will be key.


Hi Simon,

Thank you very much for your inputs.

I have discussed this issue of weight and breathability today with two of the tailors who make my bespoke suits here in Rio de Janeiro. They are not aware of the fresco fabrics, but recommended a lightweight 210g by Drago (Blue Feel collection, I think Super 140), which I am not familiar with. During a quick observation of the sample (mid to dark navy), the weave seemed rather open and breathable, as I was able to easily look through and see the other side.

Since I request my suits to be unlined or half-lined and use each one of them once a week (sometimes twice), it would seem that this Drago could be a good option, but I am not sure about the wrinkling issue. A 210g would rather get wrinkled very fast, don’t you think? As I am a lawyer in an upscale traditional office, the jacket of the suit must also have a traditional look, preferably with minimum wrinkling.

To find a middle ground on this topic is really difficult to me, and I do need to get a break from the Rio summer weather. Today we had 41ºC (107ºF), high humidity and barely any wind, and this will go on for 3 more moths, at least.

Kind regards,


Thank you, Simon.

Earlier this year I ordered a half-lined, Super 90 dark brown Dormeuil, which has this coarse touch and, even if it creases a bit, it comes back to normal within a few hours on the hanger (haven’t even had it pressed since I got it back in August). Unfortunately, since the fabric was already on the tailor’s shelf for some years (bought by the master tailor, his father, who sadly passed away), he could not tell me the exact properties of the cloth, though it is definitely old Dormeuil wool. I even sent an e-mail to Dormeuil with pictures of the cloth strip, requesting some info, but got no response, so unfortunately I could not learn much after some months of wearing the suit.

Either way, I can literally see through the jacket (I can easily see anyone behind it, like your Hopsack by Caliendo), but I’m not sure if this necessarily means that the cloth is breathable, so:

I – Could you kindly clarify if this “see through” quality means that the cloth is breathable, thus advisable for a summer like Rio’s?

II – If not, how can I tell that a cloth is porous enough to let the breeze go through it?

III – If so, I gather I should look for this “see through” cloth, and additionally a high twist yarn, and maybe a bit heavier than 210g, so maybe 240-270g?

IV – Also, I am not sure how to tell if the yarn has been highly twisted. If the touch is slightly coarse as you said, does it mean it is a high twist?

V – Finally, since it is very humid here in Rio, will a coarse wool help by absorbing the sweat? Maybe a wool and mohair blend would be beneficial in my case?

Apologies Simon for so many questions, a bespoke suit in Brazil is quite an investment. And although I am very pleased with the cut and style of my tailors, they do not seem to have much info on the technicalities of the fabrics they receive (like if the cloth is a high twist), only the grammature which is available inside those sample books.

Kind regards.


Thank you as always for the prompt response, Simon.

I will try to find a suit based on those guidelines (100% wool, 270-320g, high twist, and loose weave that enables me to see through it). Fortunately my tailor has a large variety of sample books by most of the major brands you cite in your articles.

Also, he told me he would try to gather some information with his suppliers about fresco. Should he succeed, would you rather recommend the fresco or should I keep with the “normal” wool?

If the fresco, does the recommendation above remains the same, or should I watch for other qualities, like an even heavier cloth?

Vikram Singh Lamba

Hello, thank you for sharing your knowledge about various fabrics. Where can I buy wool/linen/silk fabric for jackets as summers are approaching. Thanks


Dear Simon,

I am reaching out because I have a question and thought you might be able to help. I am working on building up a quality wardrobe now, and am looking for a nice, versatile cloth for a tan jacket (see example attached). Would you have a recommendation by any chance? I would be super grateful for a specific cloth name, or a hint regarding the right type and weight of the cloth. This article actually got me thinking about this little project, an I am looking for something concrete now.

Thanks so much for your time.

All the best for you and Permanent Style!

Take care



Hi Simon,
In your opinion, is a 290g , 55% wool, 28% linen, 17% silk-Tom Ford Hopsack to heavy for a summer jacket? This would be worn in southern Italy in July/August. It is great looking, sturdy, but may be too heavy. I do appreciate your feedback.


Simon, what navy hopsack cloth would you recommend for this spring/summer? Regards Henry


Thank you. What do you think about H&S Crystal Springs Navy hopsack? It’s silk, linen and wool mix. Regards


Hi Simon, perhaps a little late (posting in 2019 to a 2017 article) but I find the cloth in the header of the article just stunning. To my eyes it seems hopsack (please correct me if I am wrong) . Any idea as to the name of it? Thanks in adbvance and all the best!


Hi Simon,

I am going to commission a spring/summer suit in fresco, crispaire or finmeresco at Saman Amel. I am thinking about whether I should have it lined or halflined. I think a lined jacket hangs better and have more pocket but wonder how much warmer it would be. Do you have some advice about the pros and cons of lined vs unlined jackets?



It makes sense, thanks! The problem is that I also want the pockets on the front and I don´t think Saman makes those on the half lined jackets. But I will talk to him about it.

Clifford Hall

Simon, I am thinking of having a Hopsack sport coat made for summer use in NYC in classic navy. Do you have any advice please in terms of cloth weight and material brands. Believe yours was 230g – Loro Piana.

Thank you.



This is extremely helpful. Thank you. Question about wool/linen/silk mixes. I’ve had a jacket made from a wool/linen/silk mix, thinking that it would be cooler for the summer. However, I’ve found it still to get very hot even before the temperature gets to an oppressive degree. The neutral color (a gray with black slubs) is more suited to cooler seasons anyway. But I want to choose the next jacketing well. My former understanding is that silk is generally a warm material and therefore not suited to a breathable summer fabric. Some related questions:

1) Is this untrue about silk? If so, what are the factors that make a wool/linen/silk fabric cool and breathable?
2) Do Drapers and Caccioppoli, as solid Italian brands, generally do a good job in weaving breathable mix fabrics?
3) How much of a difference does the lining make? I used to get fully lined jackets, then switched to half, and now I’m considering going with a quarter or no lining. What do you recommend?

If it makes a difference, I live near Chicago, where summers are humid and get up close to 100 degrees (upper 30s Celsius). Thanks!


I recently purchased a wool/linen blazer, light blue, unlined. Although it feels really lightweight I found it to feel very very hot, making me sweat, even more than my lightweight lined wool sport coats. Same experience indoors at work too, just feels hot against my body, don’t see any breathability whatsoever. I thought I could get past the wrinkles, but that’s all I kept thinking about while wearing it. Don’t see how linen is supposedly ‘cool’.


Dear Simon, thanks for this informative post. I wonder if you think a 10-11 oz hopsack would be too heavy for a US East Coast summer? Thanks.


Simon do you know what cloth book that black wool/linen/silk jacket in bottom picture is from? If not, do you know where I could find similar?


Simon what do you think about a mohair hopsack for a navy blazer? Is it too crisp and formal in your opinion to make a good blazer to wear with separate trousers?


Ok thanks, I like the idea of formal dressing even when wearing separates so it could work well for me. If I did get something made like this to be worn in a more formal way, what kind of trousers would you pair a navy mohair hopsack blazer with? a dark grey trouser in a cloth which is also sharp like a high twist perhaps or cavalry twill?


Thanks Simon. You are the man)


How about silk suiting/jacketing – the weaves and just as importantly how to locate who makes what you want – I have been struggling to find a matt, non slubbed silk – I want to wear silk but want it matt, to look like wool, as silk even with just a sheen can create an unfavourable impression – a bit ‘spiv’ or ‘mafiosi’. Slubbed silk is a bit ‘Hollywood”

Note: I live in Thailand where it can be 100 F / 100% humidity and wool is hot regardless of what the trade says. Wool evolved to keep animals warm on mountainsides in winter. Linen and Cotton are too casual.

Calvin Law

Hi Simon, thanks for your great article on summer cloths for jackets. Looking for your advice on the best cloth, pattern, texture and style to make a grey / mid grey summer separate sports coat that can either go with fresco trousers for wear during mid week or more causally on Friday office days. Which of the Asia country based Neapolitan tailors would you recommend to commission this jacket? Thanks, Calvin


Thanks Simon, have looked at Anthology, Prologue and WW Chan. I find Anthology and Prologue relatively similar. WW Chan is more of an English cut? Thanks for the advice.


What do you think about a full suit in wool/silk/linen mix ?

How formal/informal would such a suit be?


Hi Simon

What is the Ideal percentage of Linen in the Blend so that it is breath enough in Very Hot summer?

Wool/Linen too

Is 70% linen too much and 25%Linen too Little?


Hi Simon,

Reading through this (excellent) article, and the comments, I got to wondering, does supplying your own fabrics to the tailor help save money?

Please forgive the possibly naive question, but as always, any saving it’s possible to make on bespoke is a good one in my book!


Damn! Just as i thought i’d found a clever trick. Nevermind, back to dreaming of a Michael Brown suit! Thakyou Simon.


As always, thank-you Simon! Trying to get my head around hopsack. Would you say its exclusively a summer weave style or can you find warmer sports coat in hopsack too? Thanks


Hello Simon, what would be a good summer fabric for a navy suit of which one intends to wear the jacket the most, and as a suit only occasionally? Is hopsack an option or does the open weave rule out a suit?


Thanks for the advice, Simon. Which hopsack jacketing would you recommend for a travel jacket (no suit)?


Regarding weight, do you find there’s a noticeable difference between, say, 230, 260 and 340 g? Ideally the jacket should be wearable in summer, save for the hottest days perhaps.

Also, what color is closest to your navy Loro Piana? Navy (HS Mesh 3020003) or Midnight (HS Mesh 3020004)? Thanks Simon


Hi Simon, would it look strange to wear a navy hopsack jacket with a very similar navy Fresco trouser as a suit? Or can it be pulled off together as a suit?


Hi Simon, does hopsack have the right texture to pair with jeans?


What are some jacketing fabrics that work with jeans?


The second jacket from the left in the last picture, what type of fabric and weave is that?


Considering ordering a jacket for the summer similar to the hopsack blazer you have, just with that fabric (AIT – 056):

Unstructured and thin padding, right? Would a regular pad make it look worse?
Also, what is the lifespan for a jacket like this, approximately?


Hey Simon,

What casual cloth, if there is one, would you recommend for jackets that could be worn year round? Appropriate for a summers day over a light knit or shirt, but layered under an overcoat in the winter. I assume that a W/S/L blend wouldn’t work because of the look/characteristics of the cloth (crispness etc that wouldn’t work with flannel, but maybe cottons?).


Hi Simon,
quite a classic introduction of summer fabrics, thanks for all the knowledge and experience sharing.

I’m currently located in SE Asia and traveled much before pandemic, would like to pick casual jackets to pair with khaki even dark jeans during trips. Considering climate I’m very interested in fresco blazer, yet not sure if it being too smart for mentioned pants, could you give some advises over fabrics choices?

Thank you.


Based on reading this article and the article on 2019 high-twist (along with the comments), I’m planning on going with a mock leno either in from the Fresco III or Finmeresco bunch. Requesting your answers to two questions if you please:

1) The two mock lenos seem very similar apart from their weights: the Fresco III is 10 oz, the Finmeresco 12–13 oz. If I’m aiming for something I can wear in summer and (with extra layers) in the winter, would the Fresco be better? Anything else to consider when thinking about the weights?

2) I struggle with what shade of blue to go with. Certainly dark enough not to be loud, but how dark? I work at a university, so I like to dress up but want to avoid an overly corporate look that would make me seem less approachable. Of the Fresco III bunch, I’m debating between 510243 and 501244. Thanks very much.


That makes sense, will look into them instead, thanks for the suggestions.

Ollie E

Hey Simon,

Just thinking about summer Jacket & trouser combinations. I’ve got my eye on a biscuit-coloured WSL from Caccioppoli. It looks quite nice with light grey fox air- but I’m curious to know what it would look like with a cream linen. When you say about mixing textures as much as possible, would a WSL & linen be too similar? If so, what woud be a good alternative casual summer jacketing?

Thank you for your wisdom, as always!

Ollie E

Oh good, that makes things easier!


Hi Simon, I have seen you caution against high-twists as odd jackets, particularly if they do not have a lot of texture, but I am wondering if you thought the ones from Cavour might work. (



Hi Simon, great article as always. May I ask if summer jacket works at all with Gurkha shorts, or no tailoring works with shorts in general? Thanks!


Dear Simon,

I guess this might be the best place to post this question.

I am addressing what I imagine could be my last suit commission. Much to my sorrow, my professional environment hardly justifies investing in anything else than separates anymore. Also my remaining professional span is not so long to expect that to change, or count many random opportunities when a suit could be worn.

So, what I feel I could reasonably justify would just be a versatile piece to fit the occasional bill for business dress up, but mostly for private occasions such as weddings, Christmas, funerals and the like. In my opinion that calls for the core basic, navy single breasted, which in my case happens to need replacing.

Going one step beyond for versatility (and cost per wear), I would ask your opinion on whether attempting a single year – round garment could work. I figure out that means in the first place preventing getting cooked alive in the hottest months, so my bet would be a high twist such as Crispaire. I live in a coastal mildish climate, with temperature ranging mostly from 10º to 27º year round. Private occasions such as weddings are more often scheduled for SS, and what with dancing and all you usually have to deal more with heat than with cold. Maybe half lining trousers and going for the three – piece to have the waistcoat available for the colder days would strike a good balance?



Thank you Simon. In fact I fancy the waistcoat should it meet the occasion. I would welcome however advice on the back piece. From your suggestions on lining colour for the playful I like the idea of a dark forest green. Assuming the back of the waistcoat should be in the same colour and material, would you advise against as too flash (even if it should not be expected to be seen)? And would Bemberg be fine for all of it or rather some other material?


Thanks again! Another question around high twists if I may.

I really liked the idea of the green / black hue of your Gieves linen suit for a summer jacket. However I already have all the linen I want, so I looked at other summer fabrics for something along that line. In the Crispaire reboot for 2021 I found this fabric:

I know you don’t endorse high twists for odd jackets due to sharpness. Would you say this one can pass muster if going with the full casual pack (variegated brown buttons, 3 – roll – 2, patch pockets including ticket) or would it desperately struggle? The contrast seems to create some more impression of texture than a plain solid.


No, just looked at a swatch and yes I can see that risk. Maybe I better play it safer.

Have you had a chance to browse that new Airesco 3 – 4 ply high twist bunch from HS? Suitings too, but look more textured than Crispaire. In fact more than a navy hopsack blazer I have from Gieves. Comparing swatches I think it sits halfway between Crispaire and Mesh & Hopsack Blazers. I know the latter would be the go-to for a sports jacket, but just cannot find the hue I am after.


Hey Simon, was hoping you could give me your thoughts on a couple of fabrics i am considering for a summer jacket. I want a casual summer jacket (it will be my first and only for a while), and i really like the sound of the linen/silk mix you describe here. The problem is that the Italian cloths i have seen either have quite large checks, or are plain with little texture/color variation. The holy grail would be a ‘summer tweed’, but i guess that doesn’t exist.

However, Anglo-Italian have two cloths that look promising:

Their color – dark brown and dark olive – are both versatile, but i worry there is not enough texture for casual use i.e they are too crisp.

I know it’s hard to tell from looking at photos of fabric online, but do you think either of these would be good for a casual, versatile summer jacket?

Sincere thanks in advance.


Simon, thanks for this guide. What are your thoughts on meshes such leno and mock-leno (I confess I can’t tell the difference). I am having a summer blazer made up in it (from VBC) in a similar style to your Ettore de Cesare number, also from a Neapolitan tailor. I chose it as I really liked the texture and the interesting colour, which is a navy but not so deep, similar to that Ettore de Cesare of yours. On the first fitting it looked really nice, a matte texture and very light-weight. Was this a good choice of fabric in terms of behaviour? What are your thoughts on it, especially now after a while of wearing a similar fabric? Thanks!


Cheers, Simon, your view is much appreciated!


Hi Simon,

I revisited this article after recalling you saying you were a big fan of the Wool/Silk/Linen mixes for summer jackets. I remembered your Biagio Granata jacket was a WSL mix from Caccioppoli. Do you have any thoughts of the slubbier WSL hopsacks/basket-weaves that merchants like Caccioppoli offer and are often present in the Loro Piana seasonal jacketing bunch? Eg:
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I’m tempted to go for something like this for my next summer jacket. I imagine the restriction is they’re not as easy to dress up as a less-slubby twill would be, but perhaps a bit easier to dress down?


Hi Simon,

This post is more than a few years old but just rereading as I have for the first time in a few years like many people, various smart events in late Summer this year. I notice a lot of your summer jackets are made my Italian tailors (understandably). Have you had any nice summer jackets made in London? Any recommendations who might be good for linen or wool/silk/linen summer jacket in London?


A bit surprising considering that you seem to have been increasingly endorsing navies and specifically darker navies, and warning against lighter blues as cheap – looking.

Not that I share that opinion, I have a very similar hue in linen which I deem much more satisfactory than navy in my fairly sunny summer environment.


Hi Simon, really appreciating the depth of information across all these articles and it’s amazing to see how many of them are still being discussed! Hoping that I’ve found the right home for this question. I have a wedding this July and am looking at a MTM suit (most likely from AI – the guys there come across really well). Will definitely be going for a summer wool and a couple of Fresco bunches have come up – each of them are have a subtle texture, at least by comparison to worsted wool. As part of the discussions it initially seemed like patch pockets with a Navy fresco was where I was going to land vs. having the suit made in mid grey (I’m fine with the suit being on the slightly more casual side). One of the fabrics had an open structure (Holland & Sherry Airesco – just in case you’ve come across the bunch) the other one was a touch more solid but had a tiny “slubby” element (think that was a Bard bunch). My initial thinking that the grey jacket would always look orphaned but it might be possible to wear the navy as a separate, but do you think that might be wishful thinking?


Thanks very much Simon that’s very helpful.

Brian Jensen


I’m not entirely sure where most of your readers live but I live in California about 3 hours from LA. I live in mostly a warm climate all year. I am an ER physician and wear scrubs to work. On my off days I like to wear a jacket to dinner. So, I mostly wear the jacket 2-3 hours.

I recently found out about all of these trunk shows. I met with Eric Jensen from Sartoria Gallo NYC a couple weeks ago and commissioned a mid-blue linen jacket and 3 Cotton trousers from Holland & Sherry. I hope from reading your article that I didn’t make a mistake on that. I don’t actually know where the linen is from.

In a couple weeks, I am meeting Steven Hitchcock in LA. I wanted to try a casual jacket from an English tailor. I think you wrote you like Italian/Neapolitan style for your casual jackets. Am I making a mistake going English tailoring?

What cloth would you recommend I discuss with Steven? I am looking at perhaps an eggplant or burgundy. Bad choice? I am probably not building my jacket collection per your recommendations as it pertains to color?


I know this post is from years ago, but any idea where I can get the brown wool/silk/linen jacket that is pictured from Anglo-Italian?


Hi Simon, thank you for the in-depth information about this topic. If you don’t mind me asking, I will be moving to South East Asia in a couple of months but wanting to keep wearing suits for work everyday, do you have any recommendation on which fabric that would be best for hot and humid weather? I notice some of your answer from other comment suggested fresco fabric but I’m not sure which mill should I go for, I’m currently looking at Holland and Sherry as I’m still residing in England, or if you have any other suggestion, I’m very much open to it? many thanks.


As far as unstructured Wool/Linen/Silk jackets go, which color is more versatile: blue or brown? And which shade of blue or brown would work best especially for someone like me with a fair complexion and hazel eyes?

Johannes P

From reading this and some articles and comments I understand you advice against a navy sports jacket in hopsack high twist wool, since the cloth is too formal. I think you still recommend hopsack for a sports jacket, but in which material would that be then? (wool/linen/silk is one blend that would be OK from what I’ve read here, but are there any more suggestions?)

I’m about to get a navy suit made for spring/summer (in Sweden so still not overly warm) and I really think that I’ll go for hopsack (and was thinking a little heavier 10-12 oz and more textured and patch pockets on the jacket since I’m more or less certain I will end up in situations where I’ll wear the jacket by itself (and cuffs on the trousers with the idea that they will be a little less formal that way and match the patch pockets on the jacket).

You wrote somewhere that hopsack could be one of the few cases where it might/could work to wear the jacket separately, would that be in a high twist wool then or something else?

I would really appreciate input on this and maybe even suggested to specific cloths if possible.

Johannes P

Thank you very much for clearing up that confusion for me, which basically came down to me not realizing the distinction between the suiting and jacketing categorization of the “same” hopsack high-twist wool.

I’m glad to hear that you believe my idea might work (even though it’s not generally a good idea to combine sports jacket and suit in one) and to add to this; the suit(jacket) will be in a soft italian style three-roll-two button style which should also help to bring down the smartness of the jacket.

So, based on this, do you think it would be best to look in the suiting or jacketing bunches of the different cloth manufacturers? And should there be a preference for any of the “famous” high-twist wools (crispair, fresco, finmeresco) considering it should work for both trousers and jacket?

And if you already would have a good suggestion to a cloth or a bunch that could be worth looking at?


Hi Simon, I commissioned a linen jacket in earth tone windowpane but I realised the colours and checks are a bit brighter and less subtle than I expected. Now I am not sure which colour shirt or polo I should wear other than white or green. It would be great if you could give me some advice on this.

Many thanks,


Thank you for your advice, Simon. That was very helpful. 

I am very glad some colours I already own would work and also quite surprised those colours you’ve suggested could work. Could I ask what the common factors are from the colours you suggested that make them go well with the jacket? Especially pale blue.


Hi Simon, could I ask which colours of trousers other than cream or grey would work with this jacket’s colour?

Many thanks,


Great, thank you, Simon


I don’t see the guides for Winter jackets and Winter trousers.
It would be nice to see these added!


Hi Simon,

I have seen a beautiful cloth which is described as “sanforized linen, 360g per linear meter” (as the width is given as 150cm, presumably it would generally be described as a 240g cloth). How does sanforized linen compare to non-sanforized for jacketing material, and would you say this cloth would be mainly for summer (in England) or would it also work well in Spring and Autumn?

Thank you very much. These guides are so helpful.


Hi all, I believe Simon is correct. The same is true for denim. Unsanforised will shrink a bit on the first wash, sanforised will not shrink.