This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them.
It’s an area with little understanding. I loved the exchange in The Times that a reader highlighted recently. Apparently someone wrote in, suggesting that with all the video meetings going on, brands should start selling just the top half of suits. Another reader pointed out that these already existed. They are called jackets.
So, here is my suggestion of five essential jackets for a modern wardrobe.
As ever, these capsule collections cannot suit every person and working environment. So I have based it on my lifestyle, which is a mix of formal and casual; and then throughout, I’ve suggested ways in which this can be tweaked to be more formal or less formal. more Summer or Winter.
Some readers will be seeking jackets that can effectively replace suits to the office. Others will be wanting to dress up a T-shirt and jeans wardrobe. Hopefully this method will help both.
Throughout, I have linked to other PS articles that contain examples of these jackets and details on them. It’s also worth looking through the whole ‘Jackets’ category of the site.
I haven’t included specific cloth recommendations, just because the number and variety of them would mean that the list would be out of date within weeks. But hopefully there are enough visual examples to enable you to seek out your own.
1 Navy
Navy should also be the first choice for a smart jacket. And for a more casual one, I’d argue it should still be in the top five.
A smart jacket could be in cashmere or a wool/cashmere mix. A more casual one could be in a plain wool, or a hairier wool like tweed.
A smart summer version is easy: hopsack. Classic and simple. A more casual summer version is harder, but there are nice navy linen herringbones out there. Anglo-Italian has a nice one.
2 Dark brown
Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket.
Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes.
A lovely casual option is brown tweed, such as my Harris Tweed above. A smarter version would usually be a colder shade of brown, with finer material, like this Rubinacci cashmere jacket. Or perhaps have other smarter colours mixed in, like grey. An example being my Zegna wool jacket above, made by Shibumi.
In the summer, dark brown is lovely in wool/silk/linen materials, like the Solito jacket pictured.
Casual summer options are tricker. They are in general for summer jackets – it’s one reason people wear a lot of overshirts and safari jackets, or something like this Mandarin.
But there are nice browns out there – if you want something that’s very casual, to wear with jeans and so on, then look at the lighter linens (9oz or below, not 11oz) and things like washed linen.
3 Mid-grey
Although grey is a classic colour for formal tailoring, it’s normally used more for suits and trousers. This is partly because grey goes with so many things, and that’s more useful in a trouser than a jacket.
That said, it can make a useful smart jacket. And having some pattern helps – at the least a herringbone, and perhaps ideally a check, as with the Saman Amel jacket above. Plain grey is trickier – I’ve found my Steven Hitchcock jacket less versatile than I hoped.
With more casual jackets a mid-grey herringbone is fantastic, and rivals the dark brown for versatility. See my Harris Tweed above, from The Anthology.
It’s also easier in winter cloths, but I find warmer, browner shades of grey can be good in the summer. See Biagio Granata jacket pictured.
4 Dark green
The other casual, rural staple after brown is green. Wonderful in a dark tweed, as above from Zizolfi. Goes with everything save other greens.
It’s just as useful as the dark brown in summer too, often with a little check over the top, perhaps pale blue to pick up a shirt colour. Example above from Prologue.
Green can also work as a smart jacket, just as navy can work in a casual one: it just needs more careful consideration. You want a colder shade, just like the brown – perhaps like the Drake’s windowpane check pictured.
5 Tan and light brown
Those first four colours are the most obvious, the easiest to pick. Number five is a harder. (And of course there’s no reason you’d want five, rather than four or six – it’s just a ‘round’ number.)
Personally, I think the fifth area to look at is lighter browns and tans. For example, my mid-brown cashmere from Eduardo de Simone shown above, on the more casual side. Or my oatmeal Escorial Tweed for something smarter.
There are also redder browns, like my Richard James. There are paler browns like my linen Caliendo – which is both summer-y and more casual. And there are tan corduroy jackets, like the Armoury one pictured.
Most readers will find that one jacket in this colour range will make a useful fifth jacket.
A more casual collection
To be honest, I think the jackets above, in their most casual versions, would make a perfect capsule collection, even if you only wore them with jeans and chinos.
But you could replace the navy with something more obviously casual if you wished, like a gun-club check (see Ciardi jacket above).
A more formal collection
If you wanted a more formal selection – to wear really just for work, with smart trousers and shoes – then you might want to replace the brown or green with another navy (perhaps a different style, weight or pattern).
Another option worth considering for a smart wardrobe is a dark grey, a charcoal. It needs some texture to it, perhaps like a donegal, but the darkness of the colour might make it better than a mid-grey.
A bigger collection
Once you had most of these basics, I would expand the wardrobe with colours and patterns, primarily.
So a pink corduroy jacket is wonderful, for example, but you can’t wear it all the time. Equally a gun-club check: very enjoyable but also highly recognisable. Not to be worn every week.
A bigger collection would also enable you to have a green corduroy as well as a green tweed. Or a grey cord as well as a grey tweed.
Start simple in design, too
As to the designs of these jackets, I would start pretty simple. There’s no point selecting very classic, versatile materials, and then using unusual designs.
So I would go for all single-breasted jackets – or one double-breasted at the most.
It seems boring, but an SB will always be more useful – and if you have one style in a DB, there’s a chance you’ll want an SB version of it later. It’s what happened with my navy hopsack jacket from Caliendo, for instance.
With these first five jackets, my design decisions would be driven just by how formal or casual I want them to be, such as patch pockets on more casual jackets, and flap pockets for smarter ones.
Questions on all this happily received below. Including specific sets of five jackets for your very specific circumstances.
Hi Simon, nice article. In the last photo are you wearing the navy hopsack with grey flannels? Isn’t that something to avoid? I.e. a “Summer” jacket with “Winter” trousers (and vice versa obviously).
I was actually wearing a topcoat over the top of those two in the rest of the shoot, so it wasn’t that mismatched. And I think the priority there is really functionality – whether it’s what you need for the temperature you want to be, the weather and so on. It’s not really going to look odd having the two together.
Hi Simon,
As to this first question, obviously in the reader’s mind, hopsack as a fabric is merely thought of as being exclusively a Summer stuff. Actually, as you well know hopsack is made in various weights.
When it comes to cashmere, you might be surprised if I said that I’m not at all enamored with the fabric as such. But I nonetheless recommend it to female friends for their blazers.
Finally, gun club jacket can be really muted. I have a RTW one whose fabric was offered by Dormeuil decades ago. I still wear it – mostly at night for pubs! I just can’t give it away. Bruce Boyer would certainly understand such an attachment!
John
Thanks John.
Yes you’re right on hopsack. Personally I don’t like it as much in colder months, because it’s still fairly cold given how open the weave is. I’d prefer another fine wool, probably a twill, if I didn’t like cashmere
Ede & Ravenscroft feature now RTM blazers in hopsack. If hopsack in any weight is wind sensitive, then one would consider hopsack inappropriate for winter?
Yes
Brilliant summary !
I think you’ve got it perfect in terms of the colours .
And that Dark-brown Harris Tweed jacket from Elia Caliendo ….. I refer to it as the PS tweed from when I saw it first .
Anybody thinking of rushing out to buy the five will quickly realise they need five more for different seasons in slightly different shades.
Possibly a odd (maybe stupid question) ….why don’t we have jackets that open up at the arms to make sitting at desks and working on computers easier ?
(i.e. the kind worn for shooting which open to allow for shooting a shot gun )
What happens now is you take your jacket off to work at a computer or allow the arms to ride up your wrists.
You could have that Robin, it would be a little unusual but perhaps more functional. It also depends a lot on how you have jackets cut – they can be looser generally, and particularly in the back
Great article. Would you consider your brown escorial “urban tweed” as a good example of a dark brown jacket? Or is it to light?
It is good, yes. It would be a little more useful if it was a shade darker, but only a little.
Having the Escorial brown be a little darker would be more useful for what Simon? A more casual or formal wardrobe?
More for slightly more formal
Would a darker brown steer it further from casual use (jeans, chinos)
A little, yes. Though a coarser yarn would also make it more casual, eg tweed
Do you think you would make any of the future runs darker, specifically brown or green?
Perhaps. There’s a little left in each colour so we haven’t discussed any future run yet
Hi Simon, hope all’s well sir.
Right on time with this one I have to say. Despite working in tech, and working from home exclusively now since Covid reared it’s head, I have been slowly (very slowly) building.
I picked up my first bespoke odd trousers yesterday from the tailor (charcoal cav twill). And have my first few shirts from Luca arriving next month.
Now, following on from your very helpful ‘Navy Jacket and Jeans’ post from last month, I’m settled on navy for my first jacket (being my favourite colour also helps). To be precise, it’s Moon PL375 2013-33, Dark navy mix. Just wanted to check, do you think this would serve me well as a first jacket? (on the slightly more casual side). For reference, mid to dark indigo jeans, Charcoal trousers and olive/stone chinos are my defaults.
Thanks and much appreciated as always,
Ck
Ps. The Nubuck tote is a thing of beauty, had I the finances to spare I would have pounced on it.
Cheers Chris. Yes, I think that would be nice
Thanks for the article. Are there any jackets you would recommend for working from home that won’t feel “weird” in the way that wearing a business suit around your house would feel strange?
It’s probably quite personal, but I’d say that’s more likely to be not a jacket, but a jacket substitute – like an overshirt, a jersey jacket, a teba and so on
Superb article, thanks Simon. These capsule pieces are great, as they demonstrate that a great wardrobe is not a large wardrobe, but a well thought-out combination of pieces that pair together. They have certainly helped me to build my wardrobe, where every item is made to count. A capsule wardrobe also inherently lends itself to buying less, but buying quality, which i think appeals to most men. Thank you.
Can i ask if you think this cloth from Anglo-Italian would be a good candidate for a casual, versatile dark brown jacket? https://angloitalian.com/collections/tessuti/products/ait-016
I’m sure it’s hard to say without seeing the cloth, but my concern with going for a darker fabric (such as https://angloitalian.com/collections/tessuti/products/ait-018) is that it appears so dark that it becomes much more formal. Your Harris Tweed jacket from Caliendo above is beautiful as the fabric has so much character, which might be lost if it were too dark. It seems this a fine line to tread.
Thank you again, Simon.
Hey Rob,
I know what you mean. Both browns are nice, with the lighter colour more casual and the darker more formal. Though both could work in both situations with the right pieces elsewhere.
I’d ask yourself whether you’re more likely to wear the jacket more with jeans or with tailored trousers, and decide on that basis
S
Many thanks Simon, that’s helpful.
Just one additional question, regarding style. I am currently considering either Anglo-Italian (inspired by your review!) or Prologue to make a dark brown blazer for me. Noting the differences in the cut, my assessment is that both are reasonably casual in their style, though AI is perhaps even more casual. Even so, i still thought the Prologue style of wider shoulders, low buttoning point, curved and open quarters below the button lends itself to a casual style. Would you agree?
More generally, i assume that most Italian-style jackets are suitable for casual ware, compared to the more formal English ones?
Many thanks.
I think the differences are small, but AI might be a little bit more casual, given the lack of any pad and general softness. But as I said, it’s small, and probably outweighed by things like cloth and colour as a result.
And yes, I wouldn’t wear most English jackets casually.
Very helpful, thank you Simon.
Unfortunately I have found it hard to find decent cloth books for wool/linen/cashmere in London. I have ended up going for an Irish linen in a blue/grey as my summer jacket, not your recommendation on colour or cloth weight but will find out next summer!
I just took delivery of a navy herringbone tweed jacket and my hope is that I’ll be able to wear it both casually and more formally and have it as my only separate jacket. It will definitely work with flannels and more formal trousers with or without a tie but I’m still undecided as to how well it works with jeans – it is similar in style to the Solito jacket above but a shade lighter and slightly more structure to the shoulders with just a hint of roll to them.
I would just love to have a jacket made with that Harris tweed, but I probably wouldn’t get much use from a second jacket, and I look better in navy anyways. If anything I’d probably use a summer jacket in navy more than another tweed.
Simon,
may I suggest another great color to add to your jacket collection: dark burgundy/wine. I have a wool one with faint gold and blue/green glen plaid and it looks great with grey wool trousers and brown suede brogues. Give it a try.
Thanks Raymond. I’m sure the jacket is lovely. Personally I’ve never found burgundy to be as versatile as these others, but perhaps I should try it at some stage
I think burgundy/wine works very well as part of a tweed mix, but not as a dominant color. But I also like the Drakes sport coat in tussah silk that is a brown with a touch of wine in it. https://www.drakes.com/clothing/blazers/brown-tussah-silk-jacket
Yes, good point
Isn’t the navy herringbone 460 oz Anglo IT fabric you recommend for casual summers a bit too heavy Simon?
Do you have more recommendations navy cloths that are good for lightweight overshirts and shirt jackets for summer? Much appreciated
I don’t think it would be in linen, no. Perhaps in a very hot country, but not in any temperate one.
If you’re looking for summer jackets advice, the best post to look at is here.
The website says the Anglo IT navy herringbone is larger in size — do you recommend a smaller herringbone for much shorter people based on the images?
It depends how small obviously, but probably not, no. It would be fine on a smaller man
Approximately 5’3?
I think it’s up to you. Try and find a herringbone jacket to try on and see what you feel about the sizing
What’s your recommendation for someone who lives in a relatively sunny, casual climate in Cali that averages usually 22 degrees (and varies b/w 21-29 degrees)? Should one just invest in summer jackets for year-round?
With that kind of temperature I would have thought you’d get more out of summer weights, yes. But there’s probably still room for 1 mid-weight cashmere or wool out of 5, perhaps? Just for the slightly colder months of the year
Great article Simon, I think it sort summarises the philosophy of odd jackets espoused throughout the site.
Just a quick question, will there be a review of the Hitchcock navy jacket ?
Yes, that’s coming next week
Simon would you not recommend costly bespoke shirts because the collar/neck area inevitably gets soiled? Collars can be replaced but what about areas also below the collar which can also get dirty?
Why does that particular area get soiled as opposed to other parts of the body?
It depends how many shirts you have, I think, and if you’re good at looking after them well. When you see the first signs of soiling, use some extra liquid on the area, or a stain remover.
I have bespoke shirts that have lasted 10 years – including white ones. But I have quite a few shirts. If you have more like 10-15, you should perhaps go for slightly cheaper shirts yes. Particularly as more expensive shirts don’t tend to be longer lasting, just finer
I do have 3 MTM shirts now but don’t quite like the fit/look.
I’m a young person starting out my wardrobe and like Wil Whiting’s shirt fits, though they’re expensive… I’ll sturdy cloths with the hope they’ll last 10+ years? I’m thinking of getting around 5 shirts, ditching the old MTM ones… what do you think since I know you recommend cheaper shirts.
I think Wil is great but a big step up. I’d suggest starting with cheaper bespoke
Hi simon – where is that white shirt from that you’re wearing with the blue Stephen Hitchcock jacket? Is it a one piece collar? It’s absolutely spectacular.
Yes, a one-piece collar from Marol – featured previously here
The tweed overcoat in the first image – where is it from?
Thanks!
Liverano – see previous article on it here
Found this a very good read and probably something I would keep coming back to as a reference point, similar to the capsule wardrobe for business suits.
I don’t think I have seen the Steven Hitchcock navy cashmere jacket featured before, may I know if more pictures would be made available in future articles?
Yes Jun, it will be covered with more shots next week.
Hi Simon! I have a quedtion related to cloth!
I’m trying to purchase cloth from overseas, I’m particularly interested in a herringbone, tweed cloth from Moon, however, i notice that they only deliver to the UK
This is not the first time that i have encountered this problem
What can be done when there’s no retailers in a given country?
I just find another merchant with similar product?
I’m afraid so, yes. Most mills are not set up to sell to end customers still (that’s why local and international merchants exist) and those that are, sometimes only do so in certain areas. It’s worth trying to go through a local tailor as well.
Hi MF, I would recommend you contact Moon and ask for a UK tailor who deals in their cloth. I’m sure you will be able to find a UK provincial tailor who will be happy to buy the length of tweed you require at their discounted rate and then sell it to you at full price. Shipping will be extra and possibly expensive (depending on how much cloth you need and where you live), but it may help you to get the cloth you want.
Dear Mr. Crompton, a little bit off-topic but I was wondering whether you intend to do an introduction and/or a review about Sciamat, Milano (bespoke or MTM)? Thank you.
I am reading your articles for a while now, and I am delighted to say that I like what you write & the way you do it.
I appreciate your work very much and wish you all the best.
Hi Kamikar,
No, I have no current plans to cover Sciamat. It isn’t really my taste I’m afraid.
Very pleased you find the site so useful.
I like articles like this. Thanks very much.
You made your recommendations very specific wich is great. Personally I think it often looks better on paper than in real life though.. . What I mean is for example my brown cotton jacket…I bought it because I thought it would be great to wear as a casual summer jacket for the same reasons you mentioned.. It turned out to be very hard to match with trousers. It came down do trying everything that I already had in my closet to see if there was a match. I only wear it with white trousers now. Looks great but not versitale at all. Thank again!
Hey Jasper,
Yes true, cottons are not easy in that way. The shade makes a big difference. Apologies that I don’t have room to go into how all the different colour recommendations here apply to different cloths as well.
Great article, and really perfect for me since the most formal clothes I get to wear on a day-to-day basis is a sports jacket. As for the cloth of a navy jacket, where would you put a basket weave in the formality range, is it smarter or more casual than hopsack?
It depends a little with basket weave – it’s often made up in different yarns and styles. But usually it’s quite casual, a little more so than hopsack
Thanks Simon, lots of great ideas for new jackets here and some really nice styling too. Only you could feature photos of 18 different jackets (I think the Ciardi corduroy is repeated?) in an article titled ‘IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS’!
Ha! Very true. I am trying my best to keep them edited down though…
Hi Simon,
This is a very useful post and very timely as I’m planning to order some sports coats soon!
I’ve been wanting to get something in linen for quite some time. Ideally in a colour that would primarily be worn as a summer sports coat (I am planning to order trousers as well so that I have the added advantage of wearing it as a suit, however the suit would only be worn occasionally). Of the sports coat colours that you’ve mentioned, what would you recommend in linen (even if the resulting suit is more bold / less useful / less versatile)?
As this jacket is likely to be a solid colour, would I be better served simply getting the same colour in a linen-wool-silk, given that the use of the suit is likely to be fairly limited? In other words, would you prefer a linen sports coat coat or a linen-wool-silk sports coat in the same solid colour?
Definitely wool/silk/linen. Or something similar designed as a jacketing material, rather than the classic linens that are mostly designed for suits and trousers
Great article again, thanks Simon. For a more casual navy summer number, I would also add cotton in a relaxt, unstructured cut and make. Great with jeans and chinos and doable with grey fresco etc as well
Very insightful article, thanks, Simon! Quick question with regard to the grey herringbone tweed: Would you say such an odd jacket would work well with charcoal or perhaps black flannel trousers? Thanks for your advice!
Yes I think it could. Obviously top and bottom would be similar in tone then, so I would make sure to introduce some warmth or colour elsewhere – eg a blue shirt rather than white, or dark-brown shoes rather than black.
Simon, I presume you may have heard already, but the SC Holdall is going to be used in the coming Bond movie. Congrats!
Blimey, I didn’t know that. Thanks
Simon, didn’t you design the SC Holdall? The Bond Experience just did an excellent review of this piece. FYI, the Holdall is featured in the recent Bond trailer.
Thanks, yes I did and I was told it was in the trailer. A nice compliment to how modern it feels
Charles, what “Coming” Bond movie? The latest one was due to air in April, but was postponed to November because of Covid. The next film in the franchise hasn’t been commissioned yet. So how can you say the Hold-all is going to be used?
Please explain.
He (fairly obviously) means the one due to air in April and postponed to November…
Well done Simon. I know you’re rightly of the view, contrary to some menswear writers, that being featured in a Bond film does not make something stylish or cool in and of itself (it is after all effectively product placement much of the time). But it must nonetheless be very exciting to have the World’s Most Famous Spy having his dinner suit (no less) carried in the bag you designed. A piece of history that! More info here
https://www.jamesbondlifestyle.com/product/bennett-winch-sc-holdall
Not the original poster, but I believe it can be see in ‘Trailer 2’ for No Time To Die. Bond is handed his Tuxedo in the SC Holdall.
Thanks Simon! One final question: Do you think a navy flannel is a good option for a unstructured casual jacket (soft shoulder, no lining, minimum canvassing)? Does it need to be in a particular weight to work? Or do you think another type of woollen would be more up to the task?
Yes it would. In general, flannel is designed as as suiting and doesn’t have the openness to work as a jacketing.
This touches a long-lasting puzzle of mine: Flannel used to be the go-to material of casual (tailored) trousers. Yet it is allegedly too formal for odd jackets. Why are trousers and jackets different in this respect?
It’s not that they’re too formal, necessarily, it’s just that you generally want different things out of a jacket and a trouser cloth, and the corresponding materials are usually woven and finished differently.
With trousers, the bigger priority is for them to hang straight, to be smooth and keep a nice line. Even though flannel has that milled finish, it still does this. Partly because it will be fairly tightly woven.
Jacket materials usually want to be a little more open in the weave, a little softer, and with a little more texture, to separate them from a suit jacket. Drape and line is important, but less so than with trousers. There is more need of movement in more directions, and so on
Great explanation. Thank you.
Flannel gets destroyed by perspiration. That means unless you suffer from Prince Andrew’s disorder
no disco or other dancing in flannel.
I learned the hard way despite my inquiry at the flannel manufacturer.
Absolutely wonderful article, as always. Enjoy this style of doing the capsule collection – it’s informative, not overwhelming, and allows a bit more room for imagination given the use of 3 pictures per item as a reference.
Got a nice laugh out of the last sentence.
I only wish you put this out a little earlier in the year as I was starting to buy some casual pieces (though it seems like I ended up in a similar place – perhaps because I’ve read enough of your other work). I will say that it is difficult to find good RTW options (well, at least when one is trying to be careful about one’s funds) for the following very specific use case:
business casual outfits during hot humid summers in Northern California. I’ve resorted to linen blends, hopsack, linen DB (all 3 in shades of navy/blue) because good greys are hard to find for summer RTW. I’ll say this, I feel more comfortable with my selections as a starting point after this article, and will use it as a reference.
Very useful guide, Simon.
What’s your view on the most versatile DB colour ? Navy would be obvious to me but keen to get your thoughts anyway.
I think my advice would be the same as the above with regards to DBs, with the additional point that a DB will always be more formal, so it’s difficult to get any of them to be that casual
For maximum versatility (which is a key objective for a capsule collection), do you have any advice on fabric choices for jackets that work across seasons? Say, for all but the height of summer (and assuming a bit of appropriate layering with knitwear and/or outerwear to see you through winter) here in the UK. This week’s UK weather is a good example: it was warm and sunny at the beginning of the week and will be cool and wet by the end.
I noticed that Anglo-Italian have a “Transitional” category where, from what I can tell, the cloths are similar weights to their AW equivalents but add in a bit of cotton to the mix. Does that make it a little cooler? I’d be interested in any other principles to achieve this versatility across seasons.
I’d work mostly on weight rather than fibres, and look to 9-11oz.
This is fantastic, Simon. On the topic of ‘number of jackets’, it got me thinking about the number of jackets you have from trying out different tailors. I’m sure you try to keep at a consistent weight, but what do you do when/if you need to get them altered? It must be inconvenient 1. due to the number of different tailors & 2. if they don’t travel to the UK (Liverano etc.).
Good point Ollie, and maybe worth a separate post.
Generally, it’s been OK because I haven’t changed much, and because I carry on travelling to these places – eg I had my Liverano altered last year by them in Florence. It only needs one visit.
Thanks Simon, that would be great to see!
I had thought there were structural and other tailoring details that made suit coats not quite right for using as sport coats, but Brian Lishak of Richard Anderson Ltd. informs me the differences between their sports coats and suit coats are minor:
“A tad longer is all and a four button cuff rather than two or three. Our style is based on the classic riding coat (from which the sports coat derived) except for our using a single button front.”
Have you discerned any significant differences between the two?
No, the differences between the two are mostly the cloth, and a little the design details. Not the structure or cut.
You have to take in consideration the region you live in and the change in seasons. Certain fabrics are more comfortable than others. I would like more information on proper fabrics because to me this makes the whole garment. The fabric, cut, design, and craftsmanship.
Simon – Would you tend to always have your jackets buttoned up when standing? I’m just wondering about prioritising the fit across shoulders, chest, waist etc with RTW
Yes, I pretty much always would. And I’d certainly have a jacket fitted on that basis
In London, in which months do you wear a navy wool/cashmere jacket and when a navy hopsack jacket? I ask because I need a jacket for spring, summer and autumn. I am usually in air-conditioned offices and I would like to have a navy jacket that I can wear not only in summer but for as long as possible throughout the rest of the year.
Would a fully lined navy hopsack jacket (9oz) be a solution?
Could you recommend something (fabric/weave type and weight)?
If you went for a slightly heavier hopsack, and just layered a bit in colder days, that could be OK.
But otherwise just go for a wool jacketing, from Loro Piana for example, at around 11oz
A very useful edition. The capsule series is super useful.
As I was reading this one on jackets I recalled that I don’t think I’ve seen an article from you on the “shacket”. In the continuing casualisation trend I expect we will be seeing more of this article. I searched your site, and found one article talking about wearing a t-shirt, in which you wore a light fabric blouson, but that is cut differently – shorter for a start – than a shacket.
It strikes me that in a really informal setting, where no one is wearing a jacket, and you want to be a bit smarter, but not quite the odd one out, a shacket can work well. In one way they remind me a bit of the trend in my youth in the late ’80s, into the ’90s of wearing an unbuttoned shirt over a t-shirt. But the shacket, being cut to work more like a jacket, looks so much smarter than that.
I appreciate that as the UK heads into autumn this topic may have missed the seasonal boat for relevance, but I would be very interested if you chose to write on this subject at some future point.
I look at my own small collection of jackets-proper (I live in a tropical climate), and most of them are halfway there already – linen/mix, soft tailoring, unlined. That, here, is already pretty formal. I see more shackets on the horizon.
Thanks Linden, and yes you’re right – they are very useful today, and I’ll certainly look to do something, perhaps in the early Spring next year
Hi Simon,
I want to buy a brown jacket but I don’t know if the grammage is important with flannel, some people said that you need at least 320 gr.
Tailors know I’m a beginner, so it’s really hard to find the best cloth with my budget, which is not really high for a jacket (850€).
First off, don’t get flannel for a jacket. Get another wool, but flannel is largely designed for suits.
And yes, a weight around that is a good idea.
I have a lot of blue/beige trousers, so I thought it would be nice to buy a brown jacket.
Like this one from Pini Parma : https://www.piniparma.com/collections/suits/products/brown-wool-jacket-made-in-italy
if your dress shirts keep getting dirty due to sweat especially around the neckline/collar, would wearing a t-shirt underneath help? I’m a bit skeptical that it would unless you have a t shirt with a high collar
No, it wouldn’t really. It would only help under the arms
Is that a one piece collar with your S. Hitchcock jacket?
Assuming yes, is it possible for a bespoke shirtmaker to make a one piece collar, but not so pronounced like that?
Yes, absolutely. See post today (Monday) for more shots of it.
Hi Simon
i like the weight and texture from drapers 4ply, but seem most of the cloth from this collection are dedicated for suit
Regarding on jacket pattern, do you think the blue windowpane from this 4ply collection (https://drapersitaly.it/au-en/collection/4238/) will be a right colour and pattern for an odd jacket?
Thank You
I think the colour and pattern are good, but you don’t want a high-twist like that 4-ply for a jacket. You want something slightly more open, with more texture. These will often be woollens rather than worsteds.
There is more detail in our jacket cloths guide here. However, often it’s easiest just to pick from jacketings bunches instead, as they’re all designed to be just for jackets. Like the Loro Piana ones for example
Simon,
Starter question for 10. If someone has a brown Donegal tweed and a greyish blue linen jacket what should the third jacket be? I’m leaning towards a grey glen check but I don’t think that two out of three jackets should be on the grey side of things given your post above.
Keep well
It depends so much on what you wear them with, your work environment, lifestyle and so on. And you basically have just one winter jacket and one summer one there.
I would point you towards navy or dark green, based just on that description. But I think most of that is set out better in the article above.
Good Evening Simon,
Not sure if you have already managed the buttoning types, in case, I do apologise…
I am planning my next navy blazer which I would mostly wear with jeans or tailored odd trousers, so informal…spalla camicia, patch pockets, maybe peak lapel(but not defined yet as peak lapel is too bold sometimes) …but I am thinking on the buttoning type…
I am thinking if a single button could be the right choice…3 on 2 is the standard on Neapolitan jackets but at the end only one button is used (if used)….single (dark horn) button might help to keep the line cleaner (and also it would not be “the average Neapolitan blazer”)
What’s your position on single button blazers?
Thanks and best wishes for the festivities.
Regards
Hi Henry,
That sounds really nice. I would advise that you go for the 3-roll-2 though. It will look more casual, be more versatile, and be more likely to sit well with jeans etc. A one-button jacket is generally smarter, sharper and more formal. There is a post here if you’re interested.
Thanks Simon,
the link is an interesting read, glad you shared it.
Yeah, you are right a 3-roll-2 is more versatile and overall will better fit the business environment I work, which is informal (several VPs and some C-class but definitely not a tie and suit workplace).
I hope that the spalla a camicia (not too extreme, I want something “subtle”) will help in smoothing the “dramaticity” of the peak lapels…also considering I would almost never wear the blazer buttoned (reason why I’ll make half lining as I like the jacket seems cleaner inside when it’s open…)
Thanks as always for the great support.
Cheers
No worries Henry. The only thing that worries me is never buttoning the jacket. If you’re not going to do that, don’t pay for a high-end make and tailor, as you won’t get most of the benefit of a good make
Thanks.
I agree. I would use high end tailors for suits only.
To me an informal jacket can be (slightly) less perfect than a suit (usually used to be buttoned).
Cheers
True. Just don’t spend as much on it and you’ll be good
Great, thanks !
Would then be a smarter option to spend on a good MTO blazer like JMM (~1500gbp) and go full bespoke on a complete suit?
I might drift to this option…
Yes, I’d say so. That at the most probably for the jacket
Hi Simon,
Do you see any major difference in versatility between a 2 button SB vs a 3-roll-2 dark brown neapolitan style jacket, especially for a first jacket in this color?
Thanks.
I’m not sure I’d call it major, but a 2 button is pretty much always going to look smarter, whereas I think a 3-roll-2 will usually look a little more casual, while being fine for most formal things too. So the latter will be a bit more versatile, yes
If the lapel shape and roll allows, would it be feasible for a tailor to add a button and buttonhole and convert a 2 button jacket into a 3-roll-2 with reasonable results?
No, not really. The roll and shape at the front are largely set by the collar of the jacket. Getting a good result on the front like that would require largely remaking the jacket – and it’s normally cheaper and more predictable to get a new one
Hello Simon,
I have a question and I couldn’t think of where better to pose it than here. I was reading Ethan Wong’s blog and he talks about ” button harmony”, essentially the bottom button of a jacket being in line with the top of the waist pockets. Most well-dressed men seem to have jackets that conform to this and it does seem to look balanced and, well, harmonious. However, a quick look on eBay or similar will show that the vast majority of 2nd hand jackets, certainly in my size, do not have “button harmony”. Is it really as important as Ethan Wong suggests it is? If so, why do so many older jackets in existence not have it?
Hey Evatt,
That lining up of the button and pockets is a general rule with tailoring, and how most tailors would usually cut.
However, when you start altering the other proportions of the jacket, the button position has to change to. So it may be that the other jackets you’re looking at are much longer, or shorter, or the buttons are just placed at a certain point on the jacket for style reasons (in recent years, the buttoning point has tended to be higher).
The position of the buttons in this way is very much driven by fashion. The position of the pockets is then just a question of what looks most in balance with those buttons, the bottom edge of the coat, the front edge and so on.
So don’t focus on the pocket position. Just look at the other things, like length and button position, and see if you like those
S
I’ve only got one .A marlboro classics. 18 years in old .Cost me £25.
If you only wear a jacket in spring, summer and possibly early autumn, are summer fabrics sufficient? A hopsack or wool-silk-linen jacket is comfortable on hot days and can be layered with knitwear for colder days.
Summer fabrics like that can look a little odd if layered with knitwear. But something like a light wool, perhaps 9oz, could work. They don’t look that different to something heavier. My Solito one here is like that.
When do you switch from winter to summer jackets and vice versa (temperatures/month)?
I don’t plan it really, it’s just as soon as the weather seems warm enough. However, I usually only switch a handful of jackets at a time. I’ve made the mistake before of moving everything, and then experiencing a three-week cold snap
If one commissions a bespoke jacket, would choosing a two button jacket necessarily have a longer lapel than say a three-roll-two? In other words, does one sacrifice lapel length when choosing 3-roll-2?
The lapel isn’t necessarily shorter, but it will be more curved, as it rolls from the 3 to the 2, and therefore it won’t have that sharp look of a 2 button. So yes, you do necessarily sacrifice something in the long, sharp look of a 2 button
Hello Simon, do you think Dugdale Bros Cascade dark navy silk-linen fabric would be appropriate as a summer casual, 9oz isn’t to light ? Also if you have any experience with mixing only silk- linen without wool, if there is any big difference. Thanks
9oz is not too light for summer, no.
I don’t have any experience with that bunch or with just silk/linen, no.
The key things wool will bring are breathability, recovery from creasing, and stopping the material being too shiny. So look carefully at the latter, and be aware you might be giving up something on the first two
Thanks Simon, can you please advise, which one will be better for summer, this one, or that heavy linen you wrote about in article?
I really can’t say having not seen this one in person I’m afraid. In general I think the best for summer jackets are wool/silk/linen though
Hi Simon,
I went to Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers (3 times), Virgil and Pierre helped me a lot to find the right tailor and the right fabric for the Navy jacket.
Now I hesitate a lot for the color of my 3rd jacket ( 1/brown 2/navy). Maybe Gun-club check but you write “very enjoyable but also highly recognisable. Not to be worn every week”.
Is this fabric versatile ? More than your Ciardi Jacket ? https://ibb.co/Bwfp5zk
The darker the better for the versatility, even with gun-club check ?
If that’s what you’ve got, and you’re looking for versatility, then I’d suggest a mid-grey herringbone, like mine here.
Yeah, i’m not a huge fan of grey jacket, but it can be nice by wearing colorful clothes like Mark Cho for example. (https://www.instagram.com/p/B5Fi3lMhrDl/)
I thought it was for older people, but with a yellow or burgundy cardigan I think it can be really versatile.
Thanks.
Yes, grey works with strong colour really well.
Do you find pockets have a great effect on the smartness of an odd jacket? I am looking for more smart odd jackets, so I am leaning towards flapped pockets – probably hacking pockets. And I was thinking a ticket pocket to distinguish it from my typical suits. These would be more structured English tailored jackets.
Usually I do patch pockets on my odd jackets, but they tend to be in more casual cloths, patterns, and colors. And they tend to be Florentine and Neapolitan jackets. (Although I do have some patch and bellowed pockets on some more hunting-inspired English jackets.)
And do you think a natural colored camelhair jackets could fit in the light brown/tan category?
I think pockets have a middling effect – less than structure or cut, but more than say buttons or other small style details.
Flapped pockets would be fine on a structured odd jacket like that. Although hacking pockets with ticket pockets too would be fairy bold and a style you might end up regretting later on.
I don’t find camelhair is good in that light brown category, no. The colour is too rich
Do you have any recommendations on jacket cloth weights for three season wear – autumn, winter (working in modern office with heating and cooling and use of an overcoat), and spring? I know climate will make a difference, but say similar to the UK. Are there other factors besides weight I should keep in mind, i.e. fibre mix, weave, etc?
Well, you’re pretty much looking at lightweight wool if you want it to wear through those seasons. Perhaps a heavier high twist at the most, like a hopsack, but they’re a devil if the wind ever gets up.
I’d suggest a 9oz wool – something like my green one here.
Thanks. I was thinking 9-11oz, so I’ll be looking to lean towards the lower end of that range then. But I might have to be a little more season specific with my jackets after all.
Checked, casual, summer jackets are easy. It seems harder to find something smarter and three-seasons with out repurposing suiting. The exception being navy jacketing. Any recommendation on bunches would be appreciated.
As an aside, do you think it is possible to have one “transitional” wardrobe covering autumn and spring? Or are the color palettes too different? My guy says the palettes are different – considering the relative light, or strength of sun, during those seasons.
I think your guy might be trying to sell you something! Yes, certainly one wardrobe can cover both, and more besides. Particularly if you’re in the city where nature varies a lot less.
You’re right, plain jackets are difficult to find, but keep an eye on Loro Piana collections, and maybe look at a dark brown or tan with just some interest in the weave rather than a pattern.
Thanks for the tips. And “my guy” was meant to be my GUT. Hah. So no worries about anyone pushing sales…. Other than my own love of shopping and clothes.
Revisiting this article and it really is one of your best. Navy and brown are obvious ones but cream and dark green are under appreciated. Grey works but it just can’t be too dark and benefits from a pattern or texture that makes it clear it’s not a suit jacket.
This should go into a “Best of Permanent Style” master list.
Thanks, really pleased. We do have the ‘Essentials’ section under Style, but I guess that’s pretty specific to style rather than wardrobe building (another guide – all in the menu)
Simon, can I ask what you think about this jacket:
https://nomanwalksalone.com/clothing/sport-coats/sport-coat-in-maroon-lightweight-wool-with-blue-check-8-oz.html
I like it but I worry that maybe the unusual maroon color coupled with the blue check/windowpane might be a bit much. Thanks for any guidance here.
I think that looks nice. I wouldn’t have described it as maroon if it wasn’t called that – I’d have said brown. Perhaps it’s a brown with a reddish cast.
If it’s your only brown jacket like this, I’d think carefully about whether it’s the best option, but if not then I’d say it looks like a nice choice
Thank you!
Hi Simon, I would like to get a couple of ‘proper’ jackets – probably a navy sc and perhaps a dark brown/ green tweed sc also. I could afford to go to go to Anglo Italian or Saman, however it would be a stretch and I really want to understand if getting a good jacket from trunk perhaps a bogliioli would be meaningfully different to paying 2x for Anglo etc? I have bought bespoke in the past, but conscious when you surround yourself with content involving people spending thousands on clothes you can normalise it and I want to be objective. Do I need to spend £1500 on a navy jacket I guess is the question… (realise not on you to answer this for me but as ever keen to know your thoughts!). Sam
You will get something substantially different with those two, yes. In that example, both the quality and the fit will be much better.
Perhaps look at the cheapest of the Saman Amel lines, Toscana, for something that will be closer to £1000? There should be more good MTM in this price range really.
Hi Simon, hope you’re well.
If I could kindly get your thoughts on something. I asked previously you’re thoughts regards my choice of cloth for my first bespoke jacket (Moons, dark navy mix herringbone, planning an appointment with Mr Solito in the near future hopefully), appreciate the help with that.
However, naturally, I’ve already got jacket number two on my mind. I have a thing for herringbone, it’s a subtle pattern that from a distance really just looks like texture (to me, at least) and would happily go for the same collection again but specifically in a brown/black mix (PL375 2013-16). I just wanted to get your thoughts on this as a choice for a jacket collection in it’s early stages.
Brown is great, but the darker, colder side of brown is more my thing, hence when it’s mixed with black, grey, or a navy check etc. , I love it. I just wonder, would a jacket made in this fabric work well in a more casual context (bare in mind, it will be in a Neapolitan make, patch pockets etc. anyway). Mid to dark jeans, mid grey flannels etc. I just feel it would work well with mid grey trousers, and denim/chambray shirts (my favourite) for example. Brown, but a colder, perhaps more urban version.
Would love to know your thoughts,
Thanks and much appreciated as ever,
Chris
Ps. Loved today’s article on dressing yourself and how it’s evolved over the years. Really spoke to me.
Thanks.
Yes, I think the jacket would work in that context. It would be a little more limiting than a warmer brown – for example, better with dark jeans than anything lighter – but it certainly could work
Hi,
if I had the choice to take five jackets on a lonely island, it would be the following fabrics:
– a dark blue flannel jacket (winter)
– a Green tweed jacket (winter)
– a dark blue linen jacket (summer)
– a seersucker jacket (summer)
– a Prince of Wales Hopsack jacket (summer)
Concerning the last bullet point I have a question: in general I would prefer a grey Prince of Wales jacket. But what do you think of a green checked jacket as an alternative? The colour green is warmer and it is easier to combine then a grey jacket. But I am not sure, please see the following link, do you like the blue pattern in the green jacket? If yes, which trouser colour you would combine?
https://www.kuhn-masskonfektion.com/Sakko-mit-Retro-Karo-aus-JEBRIC/03-200165-3009-SAKKO-HERREN
It is a fabric from Lanificio T.G. di Fabio (in a wool, linen, Elasthan mix)
Hey Tommy,
That jacket combination looks a little bold to me. Unless it’s a design you really love, I think it’s something you could go off or wouldn’t age that well.
I’d also avoid elastane in any fabric mix, particularly in a jacket. Remember it stretches but that also means it pulls at you all the time as well.
And the top five is nice, but flannel is not a jacket material generally – please avoid that if you can.
S
Thank you Simon, that was very helpful for me!
Oh good. If you want to know more on jacket materials, have a look at the Guide to Cloth. It’s very comprehensive!
Ok. May I ask you again what you think about the following fabrics? The supplier is well known for its quality in Italy. Here are two other checked designs, this time not in green 😉
https://drapersitaly.it/bs-en/collection/4835/
https://drapersitaly.it/bs-en/collection/50111/
Hey Tommy,
They both look pretty bright and strong, but of the two I’d pick the first one.
Bear in mind Drapers aren’t a mill, they’re a merchant, so they’re supplying cloths bought from various different mills.
Ok thanks. Do you know a good choice for a (Hopsack) Glencheck / Prince of Wales fabric? The pattern should be larger then smaller because a fine pattern would be more for a suit I guess. The fabric should have structure. A checked pattern is perfect for a sport coat but in my opinion a nice fabric is hard to find ;(
I haven’t looked for one like that for a while I’m afraid Tommy, so it’s hard to say. But I think you understand what you’re looking for: something not as loud as these options, but still with noticeable pattern
Ok no worries. In you article I read that a mix of wool/silk/linen is also very good for summer, especially when it is a Hopsack weave. What you think about a light blue sport jacket in this style? I mean it could be even better than a Glencheck jacket because it is easier to combine. Can you please tell me as a last supporting act how you think about the following fabric:
https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/74 – Product 320792
Thank you again so much!
WSL is good for Summer, but I don’t think I’ve said in a hopsack weave. Hopsack is also good, but tends to be just wool and has a different look.
792 looks nice, though from that set, I’d pick 487, 791 or 802. And if going for a blue, I’d go for the least strong
Hi Simon,
I’m in need of a good sports coat, preferably in brown, and I saw a berg and berg option:
https://bergbergstore.com/products/dan-high-twist-wool-blazer-taupe
Do you think this could be worn as a blazer with different colored trousers (navy, grey), or do you think this jacket is too formal and therefore only works as a suit option?
I would appreciate you input.
It’s a nice colour, although I’m not sure how good it would be with navy.
I’d also worry a little being a high-twist, which is normally best for suits and trousers. But it is hard to say with just an online image
I have a green donegal tweed from Maggy1866. My combination are corduroy trousers from Loro Piana in Burgund and in Brown. Does it work?
That sounds nice Thomas
Hi Simon. Do you think leather elbow patches on a wool blazer are still in, in 2021?
Hey Divesh,
I don’t think they’ve really been fashionable for a long time, but that old-school look has become more prevalent in recent years. It’s often nice if not too high a contrast, like a dark-brown suede rather than tan leather, for example.
Hi Simon, great articles. I am looking at having a Navy bespoke sport coat made – I am thinking Cifonelli or deLuca in Paris. Ideally, this jacket should pair with dark denim jeans and be a cashmere or cashmere / wool blend. Do you have any general suggestions?
Hi Marcus,
Sure, happy to help.
The first thing I’d say is that I wouldn’t naturally look to those Parisian houses for a soft-shouldered jacket that would be good with jeans. I’d go to the Neapolitans. However, Cifonelli have made me a nice tweed jacket with inset shoulder that was OK with jeans (here). Given that, I would recommend them, as I haven’t had or seen anything from Camps de Luca that I would say was as suitable.
Let me know if you would like any other advice, eg on materials
Thanks
Simon
Simon,
I could use your advice for an office-appropriate summer sports coat. First off, I work in a very casual office, and the spring-summer weather where I live is humid and hot. I have in mind a nice, relatively heavy linen mix, preferably in dark brown (I already have blue and gray in hopsack wool and in wool-silk mixes). I like an English cut, especially a moderate drape cut, for example W & S. Is there anything about that sort of fairly structured cut that would be inappropriate for what’s clearly a relatively informal color and material? I’d appreciate your thoughts.
I wouldn’t say the structured cut would in any way be inappropriate for the material. But it would be smarter overall still, and as a result I wouldn’t be wearing it with chinos, for instance, just smarter tailored trousers. Which might be too smart for your office
Hi Simon,
What do you think of Lori Piana’s navy “sweater jackets”?
They have a cashmere/silk version for cooler weather, and a cotton/linen/silk one for warmer weather.
Do you think they check the boxes in this increasingly casual environment we live in?
https://us.loropiana.com/en/p/man/blazers/sweater-jacket-FAI2572?colorCode=W000
https://us.loropiana.com/en/p/man/blazers/sweater-jacket-FAE8388?colorCode=W000
Thanks
Hey John,
Yes they certainly fill that gap between smart and casual. Lots of other brands do them though – they’re hardly unusual. That doesn’t mean you can’t buy LP, but bear in mind you’re paying a good bit for top quality, and a good bit for brand.
Hi Simon, I’m looking to commission my first bespoke jacket to wear with my new “uniform” of mid-grey flannels and white button down twill shirts. Your navy cashmere jacket looks fantastic but I wonder whether you could suggest something a bit more robust than cashmere? I’ll be wearing the jacket from Autumn to Spring in London.
Sure Peter – have a look at the navy jackets and materials I suggest here.
I actually saw a few readers at the pop-up that had used these cloths for jackets, which was lovely
Thanks Simon and I cannot believe I missed that article!
Hi Simon,
I already have 2 navy jackets (one 3-roll-2 SB, a linen DB for summer) and am looking to add a winter jacket.
I love the idea of a grey herringbone jacket to wear as a separate, but I’m not sure of the versatility. Does this work well with grey flannels ? I’d like to wear it to the office, and it will mostly be paired with mid-grey flannels, possibly charcoal twill, and sometimes raw denim.
Would a dark brown jacket (such as your Chan tweed) be more versatile ?
Bear in mind that the jacket will most likely be a soft make, patch pockets, etc.
A dark brown like that might be more useful, yes, if you’re going to wear grey or dark grey trousers with it quite a lot
Thanks Simon. Any recommandations on a RTW jacket with a nice cloth (tweed, slubby, texture, etc.) ? I can’t seem to find this kind of jacket in RTW, can’t go MTM at the moment.
Would you rather recommend to save up and go MTM for next season ?
Not specifically that I’ve seen, but I don’t look at RTW jackets much. Have a look at Drake’s, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury perhaps
Thanks, will have a look
Still in search of a dark brown sportscoat. I was wondering if hopsack could be an all-year around fabric if it were heavy enough (300g+). I know that it is primarly considered a summer fabric, but given the shift towards a more casual wardrobe and the dark brown colour if it wouldn’t look out of place in winter, say with grey flannel pants ?
I don’t think it would look out of place, but it wouldn’t be great in the winter. It’s not the weight, it’s the fact it’s woven to be open, to let air through. Cold air cuts straight through it
My dark green shetland wool Boglioli from Trunk gets a surprising amount of wear – the fit isn’t as good as my MTM ones but there’s something about the style which makes me less concerned. i’d have a look there.
Thanks, will have a look
Hi Simon,
How will you pair Grey herringbone jacket?
Thanks
Hi Shawn,
I’ve shown it in many outfits over the past few years. Perhaps have a search?
Hi Simon,
I am starting a new job soon which will require a slightly more formal style of dress. I already own a navy and dark brown jacket, and have been looking for either a grey or tan/oatmeal colored jacket. I fell in love with this jacket from the armoury
https://thearmourygroup.myshopify.com/products/cashmere-prince-of-wales-model-3-sport-coat?variant=17988898652231
I know you mentioned that grey jackets cannot be paired with grey trousers, but do you think a jacket like this could be paired with a mid grey flannel trouser such as these from berg and berg?
https://bergbergstore.com/products/antonio-flannel-trousers-mid-grey
Do you think this jacket will be versatile and seamlessly pair with other menswear staples?
I think that’s a lovely jacket, and will be great with navy trousers, dark brown, and charcoal. I’d want charcoal rather than the mid-grey of those Berg ones though
Thank you, Simon. In terms of the versatility of charcoal trousers, what color jackets will it go with? It seems too dark for a navy jacket.
Navy can be OK, but you need some pattern or colour variation in there.
Otherwise charcoal is great with beige/oatmeal, browns, olives. Basically anything other than grey that isn’t too dark
Thank you, Simon. In terms of styling this jacket, would your approach be any different as compared to the navy jacket in the first picture?
You mean the first picture containing a navy jacket? The one with the oxford shirt and the jeans?
Yes, exactly.
Hi Simon,
Would you be concerned about the durability of a cashmere jacket such as this one?
A little bit. If you were at the stage in building a wardrobe where you only had two or three jackets, and were wearing them every day to work, then I might reconsider. But if not, then I wouldn’t worry that much
Hi Simon,
Wanting your advice about picking a brown jacket. For readers who don’t wear a tie, and will therefore mostly be pairing the jacket with solid/patternless knitwear/shirt/trousers- would you suggest first getting something like a check or Donegal?
I’d look at a donegal perhaps, just because I think checks can be a little old-fashioned or stand out more.
Thanks for the link to this post Simon. Very helpful. What are your thoughts on using a brown Glen Check wool with an accent color (blue, burgundy or green) for a sports jacket. Is it classically more reserved for suits?
No, that’s a nice combination. It will look more like a suiting the more smooth and hard-finished the material is, rather than what that pattern is
@Simon – I’m thinking of commissioning my first bespoke jacket. I want something I can wear with denim or flannels and be able to use as much through the year as possible. I’m thinking Navy, single breasted, patch pockets, with welted chest pocket, with a style similar to that of Ciardi. What I’m unsure of is fabric, i.e. ideal weight and also lining. Should I perhaps steer away from a full lining in the interest of covering more seasons? In short, if you were commissioning such a jacket for the first time, what would you ask for?
I think your choices so far are all great. On lining, I wouldn’t worry about it as it won’t make much difference to temperature. This is not a pure summer jacket.
On material, I think you should be looking for lightweight wools – perhaps 9 or 10oz. It will be a little warm in a British summer, but will go through into autumn well, and winter with a coat. And wool is the best for regulating temperature.
I’m afraid I haven’t looked at that kind of material for a while, but my first port of call would be Italians like Loro Piana or Drapers
Thanks very much Simon. Might I also ask about buttons for a Navy SB jacket such as the one I’ve described, i.e. material (thinking perhaps horn) colour & finish?
Dark brown will be the most useful. Up to you on material and finish, but I like unpolished horn
Great article Simon. Would this jacket qualify as a tan/oatmeal or a ‘bonus’ jacket. I love the pattern but am having difficulty on deciding where to wear it.
I think a bonus one. Checks are pretty rare really…
Here’s the actual jacket.
yes it’s fairly bold
Yes it is!
I’ll chalk this one up yo a ‘mistake’. I’ll continue to wear it and see if it grows on me. I’m trying to figure out on what occasions it would best be worn.
Hello Simon and group. Does anyone have a recommendation on a tailor in Toronto or who comes to Toronto for bespoke jackets? A softer, more casual cut is what I’m after.
The only one I’ve ever covered is Francesco, here. I don’t know if he’s still around
Unfortunately not.
Hi Simon
Could you give us a bit of a comparison between the cloth options on the lovely brown jackets you have – how should a reader choose between the warm Harris Tweed (or your Escorial), compared to a cold/darker brown tweed like your WW Chan, compared to the cashmere herringbone of your de Simone (which seems warmer again), compared to the Rubinacci donegal? All of them seem potentially versatile enough cloths to pair with either jeans or flannels or chinos. What are any pointers as to what makes one a better “single brown jacket” (assuming many readers will already have a nice Navy jacket)?
I think it mostly depends on two things: what else you’re likely to wear it with, and whether you prefer smoother or hairier materials, cashmere or tweed.
As I think you’d identified in another comment, the WW Chan would go better with more muted and colder colours, whereas the Harris tweed or Escorial would be better with stronger or warmer ones.
Thanks so much Simon. I think most common would be cream chinos and dark denim, with occasional use with a charcoal flannel. I prefer the non-scratchy feeling of wool and the more modern/urban thing of colder colours. I usually associate tweed with stiffness and discomfort. Is this wrong? I already have a navy wool so will maybe look towards a cold brown tweed to add a bit of texture and formality variety
Tweed doesn’t have to be stiff or uncomfortable no, though it is relative – it could be softer than other wools, but it will never be as soft as cashmere.
A cold brown tweed sounds like a good idea.
Hi Simon, do you think this will be a great grey jacket, or a “bonus” one? Thank you.
P/s: I’d like a brown/grey check patterned jacket for 3 seasons year round like your Shibumi, but it’s a bit hard to come by.
I think the colour of this could be good, but it’s a pretty strong check. Ideally you’d want something subtler if you want to maximise versatility
I live in a warm humid climate where the annual low is around 65-70 Fahrenheit. I Regularly wear a solid navy or sharkskin worsted woolen suit, followed by a classic blazer. I’d like to add an odd jacket to that mix,. After a navy blazer, What would pattern / color should I look to for my next jacket purchase? Looking for something that if need be could be still worn with a white shirt, and gray trousers for church.
With those things worn elsewhere, I’d say probably a dark brown, as suggested as number 2 on this list
Thanks. I’ve been seen by a grayish brown – usually referred to as taupe pop up more and more. Would that work? Or go darker if a white shirt is to be worn?
That would be nice, just not quite so versatile. You would probably need higher contrast things elsewhere – white shirt, dark grey trousers etc. But depends on the shade too
So it sounds like you think darker brown would be more versatile?
Yes
I have 100; or so ‘Tweed’ jackets. Bought over the years mostly in the UK or here in the USA. They hang in my garage and I rotate them for school wear. Students find me eccentric. All my ‘Weeguns’ have ‘pennies’, my ties are mostly ‘Rooster’ or leather. In my classroom, Miles, Getz, Evans and Coltrane are always in the background. How did i get to be this cool??
Hi Simon. Sorry for bumping this old article.
I was reading though it and was wondering if you’d consider writing an article along the lines of “If you only had 5 separates”? I appreciate that it’s a little strange to talk about only having 5 separates outfits when the whole point is that you can mix them. But I feel like I’m leaning more towards separates than matching trousers and jackets for suits. I’d be very interested to read an article along the lines of – If you were getting into separates, here are the 5 most useful/versatile combinations.
Thanks Matt. First of all, don’t apologise! No PS article is ever old, it merely gets richer and more useful…
On separates, I am planning one on five smart trousers you would own. I guess that that, together with this jacket list, would create your separates requirement? Or would it need more than that?
I see a lot of blogs recommending a navy hopsack jacket (or full suit). Local tailors I talk to suggest Birdseye over Hopsack stating that Hopsack. How do you compare Hopsack vs Birdseye?
Separate … I have several older (15-20 years older) suits that are three button jackets and double pleated pants. Anything I can do with those or do I just store them indefinitely? They include a charcoal check; charcoal herringbone; grey blue windowpane/check, and a black pinstripe.
Birdseye is a weave, just a pattern basically. It’s a normal suit.
Hopsack is more like a quality, made to be sharp but very breathable in hot weather.
It doesn’t really make sense to compare them.
No, not much you can do on those suits to change the style
For me personally, I would only have four sport coats, two for warm weather with half canvas and two for cold weather with full canvas. Warm weather would be a navy wool hopsack and something like this taupe wool, linen and silk jacket from Surmesur https://surmesur.com/en-ca/products/taupe-wool-linen-silk-blend-sports-jacket-875747. Cold weather would be a navy wool doeskin and a taupe tweed, a nice mix between grey and brown.
I chose a navy seersucker sport for my summer coat , as well as, a seersucker in a mid blue stripe in a traditional seersucker; it sounds redundant but with the hot summer(humid) weather in the south (US) the seersucker breathes nicely.For winter coats, it would definitely be a navy doeskin and a lighter weight tweet(lambswool) in a mix of browns and grays. I would also throw in, another odd jacket of more of a transitional weight of a wool and silk, mix of light gray with a hint of pastels.
Hi Simon,
I’m looking for my first sport coat, and could use any help I can get.
For context, I’m in my mid-twenties, and a sport coat for me is only for pleasure.
During my search for a spring, summer single breasted sport coat I came upon 3 models I like:
Dark brown checked in 40% wool, 30% silk, 30% linen, fully canvassed and half-lined.
Caramel in 70% wool, 30% silk, fully canvassed and quarter lined.
Sage in 85% wool, 9% silk, 6% linen, fully canvassed and quarter lined.
What would you recommend me to do?
Hi Henry,
Happy to help. If it’s your first sport coat, I would definitely go for the dark brown – as mentioned in this piece, I think it’s one of the most versatile there is, alongside a navy and a grey herringbone. All three sound quite summery, but that might be what you want.
Feel free to ask more questions here or on other posts when you have them.
Cheers
Hi Simon,
for the casual grey herringbone jacket, would you call this a versaitle choice (expect for winter days) or should I go with a darker colour and a different cloth?
https://natalino.co/collections/sport-jacket/products/sport-jacket-grey-herringbone-wool-linen?variant=41822457462982
Not a darker colour, but yes a different cloth. That looks too smooth and smart for a more casual jacket
Thank you for the fast answer Simon. I really appreciate this and I see your point here.
To be honest I am a little bit lost between all those different cloths and formalities. When it comes to jackets or sport coats I have nothing in my closet, so I try to grab the two or three jackets I will get the most wear from.
I work in a very casual office, where I can almost wear whatever I want. So the jacket itself will already be on the formal side I would say. Apart from work I like to dress up on occasion. Dinner with my girlfriend, birthday parties or a night at the bar to give some examples.
Therefore I’d rather get a brown and a grey jacket first and navy maybe as a third option. At the moment I mostly wear a shirt like your PS Oxford Button Downs on it’s own or layered with some Merino-, Lambswool or Shetland knit depending on temperature (I live in mid germany), but I want to expand my wardrobe to some jackets.
I found a jacket in a similar grey on Spier & Mackay which has a much more casual appearance on the pictures. But I am confused because it is made of the same 280 g 40/60 wool/linen mix from Marling & Evans as the natalino jacket I posted before.
https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/medium-gray-herringbone–17304a3-nsc-01-ss22
Natalino also offers another grey herringbone jacket in a nice hairy wool, but in a darker color.
https://natalino.co/collections/sport-jacket/products/sport-jacket-grey-herringbone-wool-1?variant=42343177191622
What do you think about those two for building a wardrobe next to a brown jacket?
Hey Dan,
It sounds like you’re on the right lines, it all makes sense.
I think with the mid-grey jacket it’s just the photography. It does have more texture I can see, though for versatility I’d ideally want something a little woolier, a heavier more autumn/winter weight. The Natalino looks more along those lines
Hi Simon,
and thank you again. So I guess the second jacket from Natalino would be a good choice to start with.
I definitley like the look and the appereance of the more hairy wool and the weight of the jacket matches your recommendation of 10-13 oz in your guide. I was not sure about it first, because it is darker than the other two I posted, but when I compare it to your grey herringbone tweed jacket it is not really darker or lighter, but a little bit different in color and cloth of course and it looks like you are really happy with it.
I just ordered that jacket and give it a try. Hope it will fit and then I can look for a brown one.
If i can chime in… i dont need a formal jacket, even jacket itself for me is almost an occasion wear. But ive settled on
3 piece winter capsule as dark brown pontoglio corduroy double breasted suit, grey herringbone tweed and gunclub check from spier and mackay. Still considering do i actually need number 4 but it would be either navy cashmere or navy lazyman.
3 piece summer, navy and brown ps overshirt, unstructured really light navy hopsack double breasted from spier and mackay (to be honest a mistake but i dont hate it enough to put on ebay)… if i decide on nr 4 it would probably be seersucker lazyman.
Pontoglio corduroy seems great for jacket, but im not sure i can reccomend it for trousers. Its really soft, and the only such soft corduroy ive had was ralph lauren and that wore out really quick.. but i need to wear it for a season to make up my mind.
P.s. unless you need a formal jacket, my vote goes to natalino tweed one. (but check out a spier mackay grey herrringbone tweed too)
Simon, I truly love the wealth of knowledge you share. I’ve read through the comments here and I understand you feel a linen/wool hopsack blend may not look “right” in colder months. I’d greatly appreciate if you could give me your opinion on whether or not you think the following would look alright in fall/winter (if it’s too cold, I’d just pair with an overcoat) or if it would look out of place. Thank you!
If you’re sure you wouldn’t get cold, then I’d say the brown would be fine, as it’s darker. The green looks much more springlike
Hi Simon. Hope all is well. For a tan colored jacket, does this match with charcoal colored trousers or mid or dark grey (but not as dark as charcoal) is better?
Would it be the same for a pale colored tan or a more saturated tan?
Most tans would work with mid-grey, but only the palest, the least saturated, would work with charcoal probably
Hi Simon,
Have you taken a look or have any ingoing projects using Fox’s Sports Jacketing 430g fabrics?
In terms of formality, where do you think this might lie and what trousers would you recommend choosing for it?
I feels slightly too dry for pairing with flannel but I’m not sure it would look quite right with a high twist either.
I haven’t really looked closely at it or tried it I’m afraid. Sorry
Hi Simon, great article. Interesting that you did not include a charcoal flannel jacket in your basic collection (you mention it as an alternative in the end though). I find this the most versatile one for winter, when everything is dark. Usually paired with a white oxford clothes shirt and light-medium grey wool trousers.
Yes, charcoal can be really nice. I guess I normally find a mid-grey and a navy more versatile in that situation, but this is only if versatility is your number one priority. And you might also have other factors, such as wanting something smarter than a mid-grey
I see. Because of your website, I bought a pair of medium gray flannel pants last winter and find them – as you said – extremely versatile. For jackets/blazers (see my PS), I usually prefer darker colors – also dark brown – in winter when it rains/snows all the time. Limiting to that, for me a navy blue blazer fits better with spring/summer/early fall, but not so much in winter, because I always associate the color blue (including navy) with sun, blue skies, sea, etc….. so more with the warmer season.
My PS: Since English is not my native language, for me a jacket (“Jacke” in German) is something very different from a blazer (“Sakko” in German), namely every kind of outerwear that is shorter than a coat. Is there a difference between jacket and blazer in English or are the words interchangeable?
I see, thanks Markus.
In English a blazer originated as a boating jacket, but today usually means a navy jacket with metal buttons or buttons that stand out similarly. Some people use it to mean a jacket (what the Americans would call a sports jacket) but they are the minority. It’s a shame because it is a useful word, given a jacket could mean almost anything, as it sounds like is the case in German
Hi Simon, very useful article.
I’m moving to London the next year and am trying to put together a wardrobe with my local tailor before I leave. But having never been to London I don’t know what to expect in terms of weather and formality… What would be your suggestions for a few jackets that would be versatile for dinners and drinks (e.g. establishments with a jacket/tie required dress code)? Would tweeds be too rustic? Perhaps some woolens and layer a cardigan or topcoat when it gets cold?
Is this for work, or just for leisure? Obviously if it’s for work it will depend very much on your office or working environment
It’s just for leisure. Thanks.
If it’s just for leisure, then you’ll find London similar to many international cities, and few things will look out of place. The weather is best described as unpredictable, and therefore I think you’re right to concentrate on layers like knits and a topcoat.
A navy blazer will I’m sure be useful, as will a tweed – as you say, maybe just keep the latter towards the less colourful and less hairy end of the spectrum, so it seems more urban and less country, but that’s about it.
Oh, and I might suggest waiting until you get here to have some things made. It’s hard to anticipate all these things in advance.
Do let me know if you have any other questions
Hi Simon, after reading this article, I have collected a navy and a brown jacket, and am considering another jacket for this autumn/winter. While choosing which cloths to go for, I have found glen checked could be an interesting choice for my third jacket.
However, could I ask whether you have found the jacket versatile enough? If so, which colour combination would you suggest I start with? If not, do you think it would be too early for the glen check?
Many thanks,
Jack
A subtle glen check can be very nice Jack. It might also be worth considering the wheat-coloured tweed we are just re-issuing this week. It was originally featured here and is now exclusive to us.
That is a beautiful colour. I might go for that.
However, my navy and brown winter jackets are herringbones but not tweeds, and the cloths are not from British mills. If it were you, would you not mind as they are in completely different colours?
No, I wouldn’t mind personally
Again, a great and very helpful article. I would also put a charcoal / dark grey flannel jacket in the top five. By contrast, I am not a fan of windowpane or any other pattern for that matter (except a subtle herringbone). Yours are tasteful, though also not my style, but often they are bordering a bit on the clownesque and in addition are harder to combine than solid colors (which can also be washed out….. I have a wonderful very casual washed out grey K-Jacket from Boglioli).
True Markus, there is always that danger. I would also be cautious about flannel though. Usually it’s woven tighter and meant more as a suiting.
Hi Simon, thank you for this.
I work in a semi-smart office (mostly grey or navy jackets, or only smart trousers with a shirt, but no tie, or very rarely).
I currently have a navy suit and a navy wool/cashmere jacket + dark grey trousers. What do you think would be the most relevant next step? Again I don’t wear ties, so a grey suit may not be needed. A brown jacket might be a little odd in my office. Maybe a second navy jacket, in a different weight or texture?
Would an oatmeal-coloured jacket, as described in this list, also be out of place?
If so I’d suggest a mid-grey jacket, such as a herringbone, and a pair of navy trousers perhaps. Or very dark brown
Hi Simon
Do you think a brown Dupioni silk might make it into this top 5? It seems so versatile in being suitable for all 4 seasons, covering one mid-brown and allowing for a darker brown to be cashmere/tweed for example…
I’m not sure. I think the colour and matte finish, sure, but it is a pretty unusual cloth. I think it might be quite personal
Hi Simon
I’m building out my jacket collection from scratch. After a somewhat disastrous fit experience with Solito have just had my first ever 2 MTM ones made that fit totally perfectly by Saman Amel. Would you recommend trying other makers for the next few jackets? I’m thinking that it might be a bit risky to have everything in the same house style, with the wide lapel and high gorge – but on the other hand they have absolutely nailed my pattern. I can see how others like the Anthology might offer a different lapel/style which could add variation, but am really afraid that the first commission won’t have the same superb fit- the solito one is so off I barely wear it, really sadly.
What do you think – prioritise sticking with the same tailor and don’t worry about the consistent characteristic lapel/cut/style?
Or… take a risk on fit and get the subtle changes of a different Neapolitan-style SB look into the capsule?
I think you should wait either way, David. You won’t know until you’ve worn those two Saman Amel ones quite a bit, and found out what you wear them with, what you like them with and less so, and so whether a different cut would make a difference.
Two jackets is already a good amount to have to play around with. Do that for months before thinking about the next one
Such good advice. Thank you Simon
Hi Simon,
Excellent article, as usual. Sorry for all the preamble, but I want to give all the information you usually ask before giving advice, heh.
I live in the southern USA, so the temperature is about 85F/30C for 2/3 of the year. It’s hot and humid.
Work is casual (no suits, no sport coats/jackets/blazers). I do like to dress nicely at work and after work, though. So trousers are either fresco wool at work, and cotton/linen or linen trousers after work (wool fresco if going to do something more formal). I rarely wear denim, as it is too heavy, I find.
So I think I need 1 navy jacket or blazer for the very warm 2/3 of the year, and 1 3-season or cool weather for the short time it is cool and when I travel to cooler climates.
Thank you in advance!
No worries Mike, happy to help.
1. No, I don’t wear them. They seem a bit too traditional to me, at least worn in this kind of context.
2. Fresco is more a suiting, hopsack is the jacketing equivalent, or mock leno. I’d go hopsack if you want something smart, w/s/l for something a touch more casual and perhaps more Italian looking
3. I wouldn’t have though two navy would be needed, no. I’d go for something different, like a dark brown
4. I wouldn’t go cashmere if your weather is that warm, and you have a fairly small wardrobe. I’d go lightweight wool, 9 or 10oz
This is so helpful, thank you!
I’m sorry I am so late to this, I didn’t know how to find the comment/thread and didn’t add the notification feature.
Thank you for taking the time to write all this up, and the extensive knowledge you share, here! I’m learning a ton from you and this community.
No worries, happy to help Mike. And do always leave comments on any post, new or old, when you have a question. It just adds to the resource that the article represents
Hi Simon,
Looking for a nice cold dark brown with some black in the weave for a jacket to wear with jeans, grey and brown flannels, and cream trousers.
The WW Chan W Bill has gone from bunches.
Is this any good? https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/wb12404/
Failing that are there any other bunches or fabrics that have caught your eye this season in black/brown mixes?
That W Bill is nice Ben, though pretty dark. I’d try to see it in person if I were you – perhaps when wearing jeans, as those will be the harder things to wear with it.
I haven’t spotted anything else recently, no
Hi Simon
Is there such a thing as a true 4-season jacket? Would 11oz brown wool or cashmere be wearable in summer evenings? Or should the capsule really have summer and thicker winter brown jackets.
Not really Gerry, at least not in most countries in the summer, and in the winter it’s really dependent on having a coat over the top – at which point almost any weight is fine.
But really I think it depends on the size of your wardrobe. When you’re investing in your first 2 or 3 good jackets, it makes perfect sense to buy something in that mid-range that will have as much use as possible. Beyond that is when it makes sense to have something different, particularly for summer.
Hi Simon,
Do you think these two navy jackets can cover the whole range of seasons (from summer to winter and in between), and formality from jeans to more formal outfits? If not, what would be the main gap?
Thanks
https://www.thearmoury.com/collections/sport-coats/wool-cashmere-sport-coat?variant=18001927766087
https://www.thearmoury.com/collections/sport-coats/wool-linen-hopsack-sport-coat?variant=31841908916295
Certainly seasons, yes. On formality, a navy jacket is unlikely to cover everything – something fine and smarter for work is not going to look great with mid-blue jeans
That sounds good, and the goal would be to wear them with dress shirts for work. I was just wondering how much I can stretch their use.
As far as fall and spring, for a not so cold day, would neither look out of season, as long as I pick either one based on the day’s temperature? I was just thinking that instead of looking for one navy jacket that would do it all, it would perhaps make more sense to have two instead.
Thanks again, and really enjoy your posts and discussions!
No they wouldn’t I don’t think
Would the wool/linen hopsack fabric decrease much in versatility compared to a wool hopsack jacket?
And having wool in the mix, would the texture change enough to safely go with a linen shirt and/or linen trousers?
Thank you
On versatility, only a little I would have thought. It would still be a nice smart jacket.
And yes I would have thought it would be fine with linen trousers and shirt
Hi Simon, I’ve been revisiting this article given I’m almost exclusively wearing separates rather than suits, and I’m trying to build out my sports jacket wardrobe.
I already have a navy cashmere, grey and cream POW, green tweed (very similar to in colour to yours by Zizolfi) and oatmeal (in your Escorial wool).
I recently sold my brown sports jacket, a lovely brown tweed check from Drake’s which had a lot of country/autumnal colours through it, because I thought it was a little too ‘country’ for my lifestyle. While I loved it, I live in the city (Sydney), so I thought something a little simpler and colder in colour tones would be more appropriate. I’m tossing up on the below two sports jackets and would love your opinion:
1. This brown gun club check in undyed wool (https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRIW2LME5KUy63_m0YLKZ07KTRTwvGN4nf_Ag&usqp=CAU). A simpler design in colder tones of brown.
2. This Harris Tweed (https://theanthology.net/shop/sport-jackets/wool-sport-jacket-the-anthology-x-jkf-man-harris-tweed). While this is probably more ‘country’ than the gun club check above, the colour palette is really interesting – it appears very neutral and cold, and therefore more modern.
Thanks!
They’re both nice materials Guy, but if you wanted to avoid that country look I would go with the former
Hi Simon, I have noticed that you don’t use flannels for sports jackets. Could I ask why?
Many thanks,
Jack
Flannel is mostly designed for suits or trousers, Jack. Generally suitings are woven more densely and sharply, jacketings a little more softly and loosely.
I see.
I am planning to commission a suit either from Anderson&Sheppard, Huntsman, Richard Anderson, or Kent & Haste. He is in his mid 60s. Althought he rarely wears a suit and mostly wears a sports jacket, I would like to gift him a suit. I understand suits are suits and jackets are jackets and from your response I assume it may be difficult but could you suggest any cloths which could work for both a suits and the sports jacket? Also, if it were you which house cut would you go for?
On the cloth, no not really – only cord or linen perhaps.
On the house cut, it’s a difference in style so it depends which you prefer, or think he would.
Okay, thanks.
I personally think A&S’s double-breasted suits are more flattering than single-breasted suits, and that Huntsman’s and Richard Anderson’s one-buttoned better than two-buttoned suits. In this case, if I were to commission a two-buttoned single-breasted suit, do you think I should go for Kent &Haste? Or is this something that could be sorted through discussing with the tailors?
I don’t think you’d notice a big difference in that button orientation between the three other than A&S. If you like the Huntsman and Anderson one buttons, I’d go to them for a two button as well
Good evening, Simon!
I need your advice with a more dark grey herringbone tweed jacket such as this one: (https://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-co-harris-tweed-vintage-herringbone-blazer-grey/p477820) or (https://www.michaelandrews.com/shop/sport-coats/bespoke-grey-herringbone-harris-tweed-sport-coat).
Is this also considerable as grey herringbone and with which trousers would you pair them?
I guess something like grey flanell or wine/cream/navy corduroy and maybe olive moleskin?
Greetings and have a nice week!
This darker grey is smarter, and I’d personally wear it more with navy trousers, with dark brown or cream. It would go with wine but that wouldn’t be my style. I wouldn’t wear it as much with jeans probably
Hi Simon
I’m about to have a jacket made for a couple of weddings in late summer/autumn in Sydney.
I was going to order the PS oatmeal tweed then it sold out literally the next day.
I’ve been hunting for something similarly versatile and the thing that I have liked to most is this light brown from the Moonbeam bunch:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CO2vCADLcSq/?hl=en
Looks good with the grey shown but I can also see it with olives and able to be dressed up and down. Not too sure about jeans but that’s not a deal breaker for me.
Do you typically find light browns as versatile as the wheat/oatmeal in terms of pairing with dark trousers/chinos?
Re cloth weight. I seem to gravitate towards heavier cloth which is less ideal in a warmer climate like Sydney. I’ve never had a half-lined jacket but am considering it this time; how much of a difference do you think this makes re ventilation/temperature control?
I’ve enjoyed reading all the articles. Lots of helpful insights.
Many thanks
Mike
Yes, that brown looks pretty good, I think it would be nice. It’s fairly casual for a wedding, but of course it depends a lot on the dress codes.
A half lining makes a difference, but not a big one. I wouldn’t say it’s a substitute for a suitable weight of cloth
Hi Simon, do you think a beige-ish oatmeal cashmere sports jacket could work with darkish hazelnut cavalry twill trousers? Sorry for the vague description… the cavalry twill was from Dakoda bunch.
Many thanks,
Jack
That does sound like it could be nice, yes
Hello good sir, I am thinking about getting started with commissioning some sports jackets/casual suits. I am really build in the shoulders and slimmer in the waist and the English suits w/ structured shoulders looks a little odd on me. I am thinking about some of the softer cuts in Italy. However, the only Italian tailors that visits NYC I am aware of are Dalcuore and Solito. And I know Gallo (AKA Eric Jenson) has a NYC branch. Do you recommend of those for my athletic build or are you aware of any other softer tailors who travels to New York?
You might be interested in Thom Sweeney, who do a very soft shoulder but with a slightly sharper cut elsewhere. Otherwise I’d recommend Dalcuore or Solito
Thanks for the input. I’m thinking about commissioning are actually the PS Harris tweed and a navy textured jacket of some sort (either the moonbeam from Harrison’s or a hopsack). Would Thom Sweeney be a little too sharp if I want these jackets to be more versatile with being able to dress up and down a bit?
Also, second question. I’ve seen your late article about overshirts/chore jackets. It is worth it to go bespoke with these or the off the rack ones are good enough since there is no canvas?
If you want to wear the jacket with jeans and chinos, then Sweeney might be a little too sharp still, yes.
On the overshirts, chores, I’d say off the rack – mostly because tailors/shirtmakers aren’t often the best from a design point of view
Hi Simon, have you ever considered launching PS cloth for spring and summer? For instance, versatile dark brown in wool, silk, linen.
Many thanks,
Jack
Hey Jack,
Not really, in that we don’t aim to sell a range or particular seasons, but rather to fill gaps when there’s something we can’t find. Is there a spring/summer cloth you think the existing mills don’t cater to?
Hi Simon, could you give an indication of whether there are new cloths in the pipeline?
Only the two new striped oxfords that we should be releasing early next year Nick
Thank you very much for your reply. I would add a vote for a summer cloth or alternatively if you could do a list of suggested summer cloths (perhaps with a focus on ones that are more work appropriate).
I would also say that your ciardi gun club tweed is something that is not out there in the market and I would personally like to get a length of that, just as a suggestion 🙂
Thanks Nick. There is a fair bit on shirt cloths in the Guide to Shirt Fabrics – see summer shirtings article. It doesn’t mention specific ones, but then these change every season from the mills anyway
On the gun-club tweed, yes I know Lafayette Saltiel have actually been working on it for a while – not sure if Virgil has got anywhere!
Interesting. What colours please?
We haven’t announced that yet
I see. I wouldn’t say there is something missing in the market, but as you mentioned in your article, cloth for a brown casual summer jacket is a bit tricky unless it’s linen, but I prefer linen as an overshirt. And I feel like not a lot of merchants offer wool, silk, linen which is what I am thinking of using for a summer jacket.
Why do you consider brown cold?
I don’t Peter. Some browns are more cold, others more warm (more blue, more red)
Hi Simon, do you think a medium to light brown jacket could be as versatile as a dark brown one for summer? I am thinking of commissioning a jacket in the Wool/Silk/Linen cloth below, but it’s pretty hard for me to draw how it would look. It would be great if you could share some thought on this.
https://collection.caccioppolinapoli.it/en/3201-jackets/3073-320156.html
Many thanks,
Jack
That would be nice Jack, the only issue to think about is what trousers you’d wear it with. Mid- to light colours just mean you need dark trousers or much lighter ones
I was actually concerned about that too, as I mainly wear mid-grey or stone trousers in the summer. I thought about going for the dark brown in the same cloth, but I already have a dark brown summer jacket made with high-twist wool from the Ascot-6ply bunch. Although it is not the perfect material for an odd jacket, it was okay for me as it had enough texture. If it were you, which colour would you have chosen?
Probably dark brown, but then, if you already have one in that colour, versatility is less of an issue
Thanks, Simon.
Do you think a dark brown wool/silk/linen jacket such as one made from this cloth (https://collection.caccioppolinapoli.it/en/3201-jackets/3156-320157.html) would work well with mid-blue jeans in the summer?
It wouldn’t be a natural match Jack, no. A material like that is more luxurious and intended for smart wear – it’s hard to find something casual enough to wear with jeans in warmer weather (a tweed equivalent)
That is quite frustrating. It seems like linen would be the only cloth that could effectively bridge the gap between formal and casual for the summer. However, I wouldn’t say I like using linen cloth for the jacket as I often feel a bit out of place wearing it when the temperature isn’t that high (below 25 degrees), which is fairly common during the British summer. So I usually wear linen as an overshirt as you mentioned in the article.
The tailor suggested that a fully lined jacket with Irish linen (e.g. W.bill’s) may be more suitable, but I also wanted to ask your thoughts on this.
Also, I have looked into a 50% wool and 50% linen cloth from Marlin&Evans. Do you think this cloth would work?
I haven’t tried that Jack, not sure how it would look made up.
You need to remember that these mills aren’t really trying to produce cloths for the kind of casual use you want. It’s not been their market historically. it’s why you’re much more likely to see a summer material like this at a brand like Ralph, than in a tailoring bunch.
I see. Have you ever considered creating a PS cloth which could fill in this gap?
No I haven’t. Nice idea though
I think that would be really nice
I’m not so familiar with different cloths and textures yet. You seam to recommend hopsack for a summer jacket and not for a winter jacket. Wool/cashmere would be a better choice for winter according to you. I actually have a hopsack (midweight) from saman amel as a fall/winter jacket that I think is quite nice. Any special reason that you recommend it more as a summer cloth? I have a wool/cashmere jacket as well, but I like more the texture of the hopsack. Cashmere looks more luxurious, and it is not always a good thing for me. The hopsack have a more matte finish which I like. But I suppose it is personal taste. I remember an interview with Liverano when he talked about different cloths and described that he liked more tweed, heavy wool fabrics than cashmere. Cashmere make you look more expensive sometimes if you know what I mean, and I’m not sure it is a look I strive for.
Hey Stefan,
Hopsack is just a weave, but usually a hopsack cloth is made with a slightly twisted yarn, and woven to be more open, so more air can get through and keep you cool. When you wear your hopsack in the autumn/winter, and there’s a breeze, do you feel that come through the cloth?
Cashmere definitely has that danger, yes. If you think that’s not good for you then I would stick to wools, or 90% wool cloths, and then go more towards hairy tweeds the more casual you want it to look.
By the way, I assume you’ve read the chapters on this in the Guide to Cloth?
I’m not sure I have actually, thanks and sorry for not searching enough before asking. 🙂
Hi Simon,
Would you please suggest a fabric other than cashmere for a navy blazer which can be paired with grey flannel trousers. Something in the 400 grams to 450 grams range. Also what are your thoughts on blue flannel jacket with grey flannel trouser. Same fabric different color, theres something not right about it!
Hi there,
Yes that’s not great and flannel usually doesn’t make the best jackets as well.
I’d suggest a wool or wool/cashmere mix – have a look at someone like Abraham Moon or Holland & Sherry, or an Italian like Loro Piana or Drapers for something softer and lighter
Would you please suggest a bunch book from holland & sherry. Im exactly looking for the navy blazer’s winter counterpart.
I’ll have to check next time I’m at a tailor’s or in there
Hi Simon,
Would you consider a post on various color combinations? There is a lot of good information across the website (formality, knitwear etc) but an article on your thoughts on what color combinations work/don’t work would be very interesting!
Best,
Kris
Hi Kris,
You mean all colour combinations? That would be a very big piece!
Realistically I don’t think it could be contained in a single article, but perhaps something that linked to lots of other articles that had examples of combinations might work. Usually it takes me a whole piece to talk about just one or two combinations I like…
Yes I realize there are a lot of combinations! Particularly if we go beyond jacket/trousers and include shirts/shoes etc.
Links to what you like is a very good idea. I really enjoyed the piece titled “This feels like me”. Perhaps even what you tried before that you felt didn’t quite work (I remember there was a post like that at one point but in general rather than colour specifically).
OK, thanks Kris. I think you’ll find those ideas come up in almost every article I do featuring a new outfit, but I can try and find a way to bring some of them together.
You can of course also browse all of them using the Lookbook
Thanks for the lookbook Simon.
It’s a great resource that I was not aware of and is now bookmarked!
Ah good, I need to put it in bold or something – everyone loves it but only if they know it’s there!
Hi Simon,
Thanks for a great article. I am, as many of us here are, in the beginning of acquiring some quality timeless garments. I’m about to purchase my first two jackets. I have a couple of smart trousers like grey and brown flannel, grey high twist etc. My office is in the business casual area ranging from knitwear without a shirt to jackets and odd trousers with a tie. I would like to step up my formality a notch from knitwear with a shirt and smart trousers to wearing a jacket. Navy is a quite obvious choice and I’m thinking the second one to be a darker shade of brown. As many of us ask for I’m aiming for versatility. Hence I would like to be able to wear them a lot. To work, to evening events, during the day and throughout the year (except those very hot summer days).
Now to my questions. Do you have any recommendations for cloths for my first two jackets? I prefer texture over colored pattern if that make sense.
Regards,
Benjamin
Hi Benjamin,
It sounds like you’re on the right lines, though I would suggest only getting one jacket at a time.
In terms of materials, it depends on how warm or cool you want them to be – have you seen the sections on jackets in our Guide to Cloth? There’s quite a lot of advice in there. Do ask more questions if you then have any though.
S
Hi Simon,
What would be a great winter navy jacket? Something that is not as casual as tweed but not as smart as wool/cashmere. Also would suggest a bunch that has a plain navy tweed.
Thanks,
Nasif
Have you seen this article on navy jacket options Nasif?
Simon, here’s another one of my challenges!!
in this excellent “Capsule Wardrobe Collection Series” I can safely say that I’m about to complete the first one… “Business Suits” shortly by simply adding Navy trousers to my initial commission of navy jacket in the same cloth and also have my dark grey Smith woolens Whipcords.
To a fault, please note, my separates are also complete.. grey whipcord trousers.
What was my fault, you may ask.. and maybe other readers also?
I can see a case for commissioning another navy or dark blue jacket in a more appropriate jacket cloth rather than a suiting cloth as above to work with the grey whipcords …at a later date.
In your 3rd Article, “Jackets”, you mentioned either cashmere or a wool cashmere mix or even tweed.
I wish to again keep to a midweight cloth in a nice navy/blue. Could that be HARTWIST or THORNPROOF… rather heavy. I prefer a strong fabric, not too open weave.
I’m not speaking of a Summer fabric, like Hopsack or say FINMARESCO, that will be a separate commission, but a decent weight jacketing fabric..with a firm hand.
Thoughts anyone?
Then a grey herringbone… much much later.
Thornproof or Hartwist are very dense materials, I would suggest them unless you’ve seen and liked them already. I’d go for a more standard 11oz wool from a jacketing bunch
Lindsay, I recommend you check-out the Mock Leno cloths in the Smith Woolens Finmeresco bunch. A few years ago, Ciardi made a dark navy jacket for me with this cloth and it is an amazing 3-season fabric (not suitable for summer). It is surprisingly heavy and robust with, to use fabric terminology, a dry rather than soft hand. And it has a LOT of texture and will never be confused with suiting cloth. Importantly, it has enough texture/substance to go with whip cord or cavalry twill trousers (and flannel of course).
In order to get an impression of what it looks like made up as a jacket, I recommend you search the web. A fabric sample isn‘t enough.
My rather belated thanks for your reply to me.
I quite agree, a sample fabric isn’t enough.
Can you clarify the following? Regarding the Mock Leno from the Finmaresco bunch, this is the more open weave fabric strictly for jackets that you’re referring to, right? Not the Fresco type, as for trousers with a denser but still open weave?
Is there not a risk of the Mock Leno snagging?
I also like the Navy Mock Leno in the Dugdale bunch. It is a beautiful Navy with a slight reddish cast but beautiful nonetheless.
I wouldn’t have thought so with the mock leno more than any open weave summer jacketing. However there will be an article soon on these kinds of jackets, so it would be good to talk about it more there
Great!
I assume your jacket was fully lined, not unstructured?
Anyways ,sounds good to me. I might just go for that. Finmaresco in Dark Navy for me, would seem pretty elegant….In mock Leno. Trousers I have, whipcord. The Mock Leno jacket would also pair well with fresco, finmaresco greys, airesco, drapers Ascot in a number of grey shades?
I like the idea. One jacket with both whipcords or fresco (high twists).
Hello, Simon!
I own several jackets now but I am still in need for a green jacket.
I am not so sure about the right shade though, because green is a very general term and I am very concerned about getting the right „green“.
Should I stick to seasons and go for an olive/brownish green tweed jacket for winter and a dark green linen (-wool-silk) jacket in summer? Is there are go to colour shade for a four seasons jacket?
And I’ve heard that a true green clashes with grey trousers.. is that true at all?
Thank you in advance for your help!
On the last point, it entirely depends on the shade of green. There’s such a big range of hues and shades that no rule like that could ever universally apply.
I would just go for a dark-green, in a light wool, if you want something all year round. Eg the green material here
Dear Simon, I own a navy business suit and a dark blue FW jacket. Now I am planning to commission a versatile summer jacket. Given the informal attire of my colleagues and clients, I don’t often wear tailoring, but would like to do so more often in the future. Would you also recommend navy Hopsack for the summer version – or rather brown? I don’t want to choose grey, as I am also planning on a grey herringbone jacket. Thank you.
Is this to wear with smart tailored trousers Ralph? Not chinos or jeans etc?
Mostly smarter trousers such as tailored cotton/linen/high-twist. But occasionally also sharp jeans and smart chinos.
OK. I think hopsack would be great for the former, but struggle with the latter. If you want it to span all of those, I’d go for brown, and more casual materials, like a cotton, a wool/linen mix, anything with more texture
So I have seen that most of jackets we wear have either a notch lapel or a peak lapel. Often the jacket collar is kind of pressed from the button upwards (a two button blazer – single breasted)
however when I look at jackets stitched by Asian tailors like Ring jacket, Assisi or Coller, Ascottage their collar rolls up from the button upwards.
How is that achieved? Is it the cut?
Please shed some light on it. I hope you get what I am trying to say here. Please see the image attached. See the roll on the collar.
thanks
Hi Varun,
That is the same kind of roll you would get from any Italian tailor on a three-roll-two jacket, it’s just that it has been done here on a two-button jacket. To be honest, personally this looks like it would be better with a third button too, but that’s just my opinion.
That look is achieved through a combination of the placement of the canvas inside in the jacket (how close it is to the edge), the tension created by the collar (which is largely responsible for how much the fronts roll open) and the pressing in that area.
Thanks Simon. I would have to look up for a three roll two button jacket. But it sounds like to be a slightly crafty skill.
Kindly give a link of some article if you cover it somewhere
Look at most Neapolitan ready to wear brands, and modern ones that copy them
Thanks
Hi Simon!
I’ve found a flannel odd jacket that I’ve become quite attached to. It’s 340g and kind of greyish really dark brown. More so than the picture. I think it would look good with cream flannel trousers, or stone and beige cavalry twill, perhaps even selvage denim. Would probably also try to find matching pants to use it as a suit every now and then. However, I’ve read a couple of comments here where you advise against flannel as an odd jacket which makes me a bit hesitant.
Do you think there can ever be a good odd jacket made up in flannel? Any thoughts on the one I’ve described? Would be very happy to have your input!
Best regards,
Elias
Yes, you certainly can get a good jacket in flannel, it’s just that most flannels are more suitable for suits. This one looks like it is a bit looser and easier in that regard, but it’s hard to say from an image. Helps that it looks like a very soft make.
I wouldn’t wear it with flannel trousers too though. And it seems unlikely you’d be able to find trousers in exactly the same cloth? I assume it’s being offered RTW?
It’s very soft. I’ve located the bunch and fabric code. Contacted drapers and they can sell me the cloth.
It’s from VBC and yes it’s RTW. Why not with flannel trousers? Any fabric pant that you think it would look good combined with?
Yes the others would be great, I would just avoid wearing a top and bottom in the same material, just a different colour
I used to mainly wear suits for formal occasions and casual wear in my day-to-day life. But now post-Covid, I find everyone at my office in New York wears separates. So I’m commissioning a navy jacket from Anderson & Sheppard – I’m thinking for the Autumn through Spring months, to be mainly worn in the office, but also occasionally out to the pub after work, and to dinners/parties that are more upscale. I’ll pair the jacket with grey flannels and other smart trousers. Are there any fabrics you’d particularly recommend for this main navy sport coat? I’m considering Harrison’s moonbeam in a dark navy (35015, 10/11oz) or a wool-cashmere mix, or just asking A&S what they think. I’m looking for something luxurious and on the smarter side, but not super shiny. Hopsack would be great for the warmer months, but I’m thinking of starting with something for the cooler weather, since the summers here are so hot that I’m often jacket-less. Thank you so much as always!
Sounds like you’re on the right lines Tom. Cashmere would be the obvious choice, but maybe not if you’re going to have just the one jacket and it will get quite a lot of wear. If you want more of that soft cashmere feel, but something hardier, then camelhair is a good choice. Otherwise I’d stick with the wools like Moonbeam that have some texture to them. Or indeed as you say, a wool/cashmere mix
Thanks so much for your advice as always, Simon. I had my consultation today and without leading the witness, Colin reached for the Harrisons Moonbeam book first, so it felt like it was meant to be. Looking forward to wearing it in the future.
Oh good. Let me know how it turns out Tom
Hi Simon, would be interested in your advice about the best colour for an autumn/winter jacket, at the smartish end of the style spectrum (for use mostly to wear out to dinner in the city). Cloth would likely be pin cord or plain wool (I don’t much like patterns – I find even herringbone is too much and risks looking fusty) and I feel tweed would be too ‘country’.
Colour-wise, I would instinctively think navy, but I’m not sure this is right in my case as I often wear navy chinos (and so would avoid wearing navy top and bottom). I don’t think brown is quite right (in a city restaurant setting) so am wondering about a dark olive green – except that the idea of green tailoring somehow just makes me nervous.
Would be interested in your thoughts.
If you wear navy a lot, then perhaps a grey? Though that does look nicest with some pattern like herringbone in it. Would something like this grey jacket look fusty to you?
Then an oatmeal or beige as my second choice
Thanks Simon. The grey donegal jacket is lovely but I think a tweed would be a little too casual for what I want.
I have an old Zegna cashmere jacket in a grey birdseye (one benefit of the birdseye being that the colour is a mix of charcoal and mid grey, which I have always found easy to wear). So I could look at a bespoke version of that.
I do like the idea of pincord though – do you find the olive green easy to wear?
Hey. Sorry, I linked to the wrong article. I meant this one – the grey there isn’t donegal or tweed, it’s a lightweight cashmere. I think that’s just as smart as a birdseye myself, and more versatile.
Olive green pincord I do find easy to wear, yes. Sometimes better with warmer colours, browns, yellows, maroon etc, and not quite as smart/cold as grey, but very nice.
Thanks again. Yes, that one has a herringbone by the looks of it, but quite subtle. I’d probably go for something slightly darker though, as I’d mostly be wearing it in the evening. I think mid/darker grey or dark olive are probably the best options – you mentioned oatmeal and beige, but I see those as more day wear (lovely, but to my eye more casual).
Yes I think you’re right. A mid- or dark grey in that kind of cashmere would be nice, as would dark olive
Hi Simon, you helpfully linked to the grey herringbone jacket above when I posted a few months ago. Can you tell me what the cloth of that jacket is? Am interested in a darker grey version so would be interested in what bunch it was from. Thanks!
All the details on the original review of the suit, here
Thanks, Simon, as ever for the helpful info.
So I am still ruminating over needle cord versus a subtle herringbone, but another idea is a subtle prince of wales check.
Do you have any thoughts on the relative formality and versatility of POW v the other two (pincord and herringbone)?
To be honest I’ve found my POW a lot less versatile than herringbone, particularly at the casual end of the spectrum. Obviously the actual material and its texture make a big difference, but that’s my experience.
Cord would be definitely more casual, all other things like cut being equal. Perhaps as versatile as the POW, but trending more casual.
Hi Simon, so after ruminating on colour, cloth and pattern for a while, I’ve summarised below where I think I am (be interested in your thoughts if you’re not too busy, particularly if you strongly disagree with anything!):
mid-grey feels like the optimum colour for what I want (to be worn in the evenings in the city, in autumn and winter)I like the relaxed, comfortable vibe of pincord, but you don’t ever seem to see pincord blazers in grey (they’ re almost always brown or olive green)herringbone would look great in grey, but the classic cloth seems to be tweed, and I see tweed as outdoor or daywear (“never after 6pm” as the saying goes) – herringbone also feels quite ‘serious’ (in a negative way, from my perspective)
POW check – classic colour seems to be light grey (I’ve seen mid and darker grey versions but to my eye they’re not so successful). POW also feels inherently like a bit of a risk (being a larger pattern)which takes me all the way back to birdseye (I have an old Zegna RTW cashmere birdseye which I’ve always enjoyed wearing, but which is now a little small) – this seems to tick all the boxes – great in mid-grey, elegant but also easy to dress down, goes with everything (more versatile than POW and perhaps even herringbone, e.g. if wearing with a check shirt?) – so overall, a good way to move away from a solid jacket without getting into what I see as perhaps more difficult checks and similar (if I were to go for a reasonably high contrast, that is)
Hey,
I can see all this, but I feel birdseye might be a little too suit-like. I think herringbone would be better, but in a finer wool, so not daytime or outdoor. I also don’t think it would be more serious than birdseye, but let me know if it’s possible to elucidate that point more
Thanks Simon, yes please elucidate away!
(Incidentally, the text of my last post was bulleted but that formatting seems to have disappeared so sorry if it was tricky to follow.)
No worries, I saw the bullets but you have to double space for the line breaks to show.
And sorry, I meant can you elucidate on what you mean by being more serious
I think I mean that some patterns (POW for example) are perhaps more whimsical, whereas the very regular, repeating herringbone is somewhat more serious.
But I appreciate this is a generalisation, and indeed one of the difficulties with choosing cloth these days is that there is so much variety (in terms of level of contrast in any pattern, and also of texture and handle of the fabric itself).
Very true. If it helps, I’ve never thought that about herringbone and I don’t think birdseye is any more whimsical. (Or, in fact, that whimsy should be much of a guide to dressing in these materials!)
Hi Simon,
I’m looking at a wool/cotton 50/50 mix sports coat with either a grey-on-grey or blue-on-blue houndstooth pattern for summer wear. Any thoughts as to wool/cotton fabrics for warm weather, and also whether a houndstooth in either pattern will be sufficiently versatile for both office-wear and cocktail-wear? Many thanks!
I like wool/cotton, but it will be substantially less cool than a standard summer material like linen. What you gain is something that looks a little more casual, usually with a nice matte finish. For most offices I would think it would be fine, but it’s not what I would necessarily recommend for evening
What about something more like this, again, for office wear, and maybe also cocktail appropriate?
330106 (caccioppolinapoli.it)
That looks nice, just as long as the pattern isn’t too strong for what you’d normally wear in the office
Hello, Simon!
I am interested in a lighter brown/tan houndstooth blazer I would like to ask whether the jacket is versatile with different separate trousers or not?
Does it fall under the definition of tan?
Some inspiration would be https://suitsupply.com/en-jp/men/jackets/brown-houndstooth-havana-blazer/C1927A.html | https://suitsupply.com/en-jp/men/jackets/dark-brown-houndstooth-havana-blazer/C1817A.html | https://www.thearmoury.com/products/wool-houndstooth-sport-coat?variant=39886455308359 or this one https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/brown–ecru-houndstooth—neo-cut—full-canvas-s1592-16814b2-nesc-01-fw22
Yes I’d say that would be pretty versatile – I’d put it more in the category of brown jackets in this piece, though of course they are different to other plainer browns.
I’d say this jacket would be good with white, cream, black, all shades of grey, dark browns, tans, and maybe some dark navy, if the colour isn’t too strong.
My only concern would be that it could be a little flash, particularly when there’s a higher contrast in the pattern and it has some silk in it, like the first link.
Thank you, Simon.
What about olive? Or do both colour bite each other?
Would you distinguish between Tan and let‘s say Brown in terms of versatility or can you go with Brown as fifth sports coat?
Would you miss something if you avoid Tan?
Brown, which has less yellow and is less strong of a colour than tan, will usually be more versatile. Tan is more a nice alternative I’d say.
A really dark olive could be Ok with those jackets
Hi Simon, do you think your dark brown Solito and Shibumi jackets are also very enjoyable but highly recognisable as your gun club check jacket, which falls into the category where not to be worn every week?
Many thanks,
Jack
The Shibumi yes, the Solito no, probably
Hi Simon
Is dark brown linen good for a sport coat?
For summer, how does it compare to wool/silk/linen (wool/linen)?
Thank
Yes it’s good, biggest downside is it won’t be as smart as wool/silk/linen, all other things being equal. Also not easy to get nice pattern on the linen, so it will be plain
Hi Simon, great article and fantastic site- finding a wealth of info. Rebuilding my jacket and suit wardrobe due to size and style preferences. Fairly conservative bank environment, went from suit/tie to jacket/trousers mostly. First purchase was an Anglo-Italian house navy hopsack. Next up I was thinking brown as you suggest but given I’d like to pair with chocolate colored trousers I may have cornered myself into something lighter or with more pattern as to not closely match the plain colored chocolate trousers.
https://cavour.co/en/product/8486/summer-glencheck-jacket
While this WSL glencheck is nice, perhaps too punchy (not tonal enough) to not be a “weekly wear” but a bonus as you’d say- would you agree? Given it’s limited office meeting wear and not for keeping warm, would this be acceptable for fall/winter or is the pattern or fabric too spring/summer?
https://cavour.co/en/product/8489/solid-summer-jacket
This one ticks more of your boxes for the 2nd jacket, however wouldn’t look great with the new chocolate trousers I’m trying to pair with, also perhaps too warm and not cool tone. Should I should forget about the new trousers and get the right coat as I have stone, dark grey, navy trousers avail to wear?
I also need to rebuild with a few new suits- and a fairly plain mid brown/taupe would be likely high on the list, another reason to not want a plain darkish brown for the 2nd jacket such as above.I like the tonal Saman Amel/Stoffa aesthetic mixed with the classic/relaxed of AI.
https://angloitalian.com/products/ait-074
something like this AI I guess would be ideal but looking to not spend as much as I build out.
Thanks very much for your thoughts,
Andrew
On the jackets Andrew, have you considered a mid-grey? Or does the dark grey you have pretty much work with the brown trousers in that manner?
I agree the first is a little punchy for a conservative bank environment, yes.
That AIT cloth for the suit looks quite bold, which surprises me. Is that the right link, the check?
Thanks for the reply-
Mid-grey as the 2nd jacket? Like herringbone? Perhaps though hadn’t considered it really. The dark grey I mentioned were trousers I have (AIT high twist charcoal) not a jacket. Maybe I’m misunderstanding.
Sorry, the AIT cloth (yes correct link) was for a 2nd jacket- not suit. Trying to show a more ideal, toned down version of the Cavour glencheck jacket that would be appropriate for my situation -tonal but less punchy but still has something pattern with going on to pair with solid chocolate trousers.
Many thanks
Ah, understood Andrew. Yes I think a grey herringbone would work very well there and with those brown trousers.
The checked jacket link would be nice too, more toned down as you say. I find herringbone more useful, but we’re talking about quite similar options at that point.
Hi Simon
I have a lovely navy blue hopsack jacket from Saman Amel which has been fabulous and can work for most occasions. I am looking for ideas for as second MTM jacket and I am still very early on in this journey of upscaling my wardrobe. I am based in London so will wear a jacket socially eg summer garden party, Christmas drinks/party, or a small dinner party, or having dinner at Pall mall club when a suit is not needed (jacket and tie). I can be smart casual at work and don’t need a suit. I am thinking something in the brown family. Any recommendations by yourself or anyone else are welcome – at the moment not sure to work on getting something for summer, something for winter, or 4 seasons. Not looking for anything showy, just smart, subdued and well put together. Thanks!
I think a dark brown would be a good idea in that case Teddy. A lightweight wool perhaps, 9-10oz, to cover most seasons, and with some texture or visible weave but no bold pattern. Either that or grey herringbone
Hi Simon
Would you say 13oz wool/cashmere can become the right candidate for a lightweight transitional jacket in London?
I would say that’s leaning more towards just autumn/winter rather than transitional
Hmm, perhaps I should opt for half-lined construction to make it work.
I was looking at this interesting cloth from Fox.
https://foxflannel.com/collections/somerset-jacketing/products/dark-olive-herringbone-jacketing
Would you reckon this can be the versatile smart green jacket you referred to?
Yes, that looks nice, a good dark olive colour
Hello, Simon.
Is a taupe sports coat limited in its options? Considering trousers.
I am not sure how i can pull off such a colour because it is honestly closer to grey then expected…
Would a pattern as houndstooth or herringbone help?
Yes that could help, though the shade also makes a big difference. Is this something you’re having made? Could you show me the cloth options you’re looking at?
I am considering something like these following options:
https://suitsupply.com/en-us/custommade?countryCode=US&mode=CMTM&product=Jacket&client=onLine&sizePassport=true&sessionId=8fa04803-48f2-4692-9027-463fd2de35c9§ionCode=FabricSection or
https://suitsupply.com/en-us/custommade?countryCode=US&mode=CMTM&product=Jacket&client=onLine&sizePassport=true&sessionId=8fa04803-48f2-4692-9027-463fd2de35c9§ionCode=FabricSection or perhaps
https://suitsupply.com/en-us/custommade?countryCode=US&mode=CMTM&product=Jacket&client=onLine&sizePassport=true&sessionId=101a82ba-0b42-40d9-8b6f-632498408278§ionCode=FabricSection
Should I give it a try or should I hesitate?
Is taupe just a colour for trousers?
Or are there any colours which can match a taupe (patterned) sports jacket as maybe dark green or off-white, cream, ivory?
Those links all seem to bring up a lilac w/s/l for me?
I am very sorry.
Here are the correct links:
https://www.iep-dakar.com/shop/houndstooth-belted-safari-jacket-taupe-mens-suitsupply-jackets/ as example or https://suitsupply.com/en-gb/men/jackets/brown-houndstooth-havana-blazer/C1927.html or maybe
I think that jacket looks nice, the pattern and the colour. Almost any dark trouser would work with it, plus white/cream.
If you were looking at that exact one, I’d say the silk in the material and the pattern would it a little bit showy – not a lot, but a herringbone wool, for example, would be less so
Hi Simon,
Do you have an updated point of view about the most versatile sports jackets today? I gradually switch from suits to jackets and trousers at the moment. (Accountant big 4 firm and partner). Next one after a navy, should I look at a grey (mid or dark grey) herringbone or Brown herringbone to wear at work? Wool with cashmere or tweed? Flannel? To be honest, switching from ”the uniform” grey and navy suits I am a little lost at the moment, haha. Unfortunately I dont like myself in lighter colors like off white, beige, camel and I dont know if that would be appropriate for my Office either.
I love for example navy jacket with chambray shirt or a navy popover shirt, with grey flannel trousers, and Brown chukka boots.
But if you would bought two more jackets and trousers for a formal office, What would that be? (My Office is much more relaxed now than 10 years ago and I am switching clothes because of a lot of things. Different clients today, not wearing ties anymore and wearing suits with not tie is not a good outfit 5 days a week….)
Hey Gianni,
In that case I would go with a grey herringbone next – probably wool and cashmere if you want to wear it in a professional office – and then a dark brown.
If you’re feeling a bit lost, do something like stick to just pale blue and white shirts, and only brown suede or leather shoes (maybe loafers rather than chukkas) and start to develop a kind of non-suit uniform.
If you have any further questions at all, ask again and I can direct you to useful posts. This kind of transition is exactly in the PS wheelhouse!
Thank you Simon. Good cloth could be wool with 7-10 % cashmere, weight around 320-350g? (Similar climate to UK). I am coming from a world (like my colleagues) of wearing the same four quite boring business suits all year. No one of us know What the weight of the cloth is. 🙂
But I want to take a step up and buy better garments.
Trousers to grey and Brown jacket are for example khaki and navy cotton, mid and dark grey flannels, dark blue denim?
Yes that sounds about right Gianni.
Trousers all sound good, I would just add dark brown with the grey jacket, and obviously with the grey jacket avoid flannels or other grey trousers that are too close in colour
Hi simon i have navy sb and db wool ackets and a dark brown check wool jacket. The jackets get me through almost any occasion and am very happy with them. Im lookng to add something very casual to the mix (cotton or art du lin linen) to be worn with t shirts and wide chinos/denim below. Im wondering what sort of colour should i be looking at?
I think a lot of colours could work Shem, including the ones you already have, but then also paler browns, beiges etc. It’s the material and the make that are the important things here though, to work with denim and workwear chinos. Hard to get the right thing from most tailors and tailoring bunches.
What are you considering?
Hey simon. Not sure to be honest. I feel theres just so many options that it can be dizzying even taking into account my criteria (e.g. jacket must not have rollino as it can be rather formal, must not be too waisted to wear with wide chinos/denim). Ultimately theres many ways to go from here that it can lead to choice paralysis (e.g. checked wool blazer, linen or cotton db, even drake’s games blazers in sb or db). I also feel while the first few jackets I have are safe and I will likely continue wearing, what I buy from may lead to some trial and error eventually (and likely money wasted!)
Yes it’s a hard category. I think that’s why it’s sometimes safer to buy RTW, like the Drake’s, because you know what it’s going to look like, can try it on with the things you want to wear it with. Either that or go for a fabric you’ve seen made up at a tailor’s and were also able to try on
Hi Simon,
Thank you for all of your great advice !
Can you please tell me more about this fantastic watch ?
Frank_w
That’s my Reverso. Details on all my watches here
Simon, Hope you have been doing well.
This has been a lovely post, especially the take on fabric and color.
It would be also useful to have your view on jackets for the weekend. If you think people will find this interesting, I would love to see you categorize military jackets (M-65, A-1, A-2), menswear casual (teba and like), workwear (chore coats, trucker ), country wear (waxed and anoraks), and performance wear (shell, down), etc.
Hi Cormac,
We have done some in this area, such as the jacket substitute piece here. There are then separate articles on chores, tebas, M65 etc.
A piece like this in the capsule collection series would be tough as so much is dependent on style – am anorak and a waxed jacket do the same job, as do a chore jacket and an M65, and a trucker and a jungle jacket – the difference is really which style you prefer.
I guess I could split it into categories rather than specific pieces? Is that what you meant?
Precisely. Instead of specific pieces, occasions (categories) would be rather useful as in the casual shoes article.
Thank you so much.
Gotcha. Thanks Cormac
Hi Simon,
I do see a lot of comments around seasonal versatility but I’ll ask a more specific one. Currently have a navy hopsack from Anglo Italian that covers me all year. This is really indoor wear only for me, not wearing for warmth. Next would be a cold tonal dark brown check https://cavour.co/en/product/8917/mod-2-wool-cashmere-glencheck-jacket
and/or a grey herringbone like yours from Anthology.
Issue I’m having is finding a brown check or grey herringbone that is light enough to wear. But even if I do, could a dark brown glencheck or grey herringbone look right for all but the height of summer? Thanks!
Yes I think so Andrew. Do you think the colours somehow wouldn’t work in the different seasons?
Thanks Simon, Perhaps I’m overthinking it. Do you think the Cavour jacket above for example would work in spring/summer? Both in pattern and weight (330g)?
As for the grey herringbone, not so much the color as a mid grey would work well. But the likely heavier textured hand would lend itself to fall/winter more I’d have thought. I’m happy to be wrong and it be more all seasons appropriate!
Eagerly awaiting the return of the cashmere crewneck since trying it on last month in your NYC pop up!
Yes I wouldn’t worry about the colour so much – you can lighten up a dark brown if you want to with what you wear with it. And the weight is not that heavy, plus you’re indoors anyway most of the time as you said.
With the herringbone, it depends what material you use. A tweed would feel less summery, sure, but if you’re going for a lighter weight anyway then you might be using a lighter, smoother wool and not a tweed.
Thanks, any recommendations on a grey herringbone cloth that’s a bit lighter? The anthology that’s similar to yours is 380g which I fear too heavy. I understand if too light though it won’t have as much texture likely.
No sorry Andrew, though if you go for something smarter and finer it will be lighter – it’s only tweeds that won’t be
Should you be breaking down the five jacket capsule by season? Five for fall/winter and five for spring/summer. This is basically what my wardrobe looks like. There’s a few pieces that might overlap depending on your geography and can be paired down to a single garment for year round wear by adding a layer but generally they’re going to be distinct.
Good point Robert, yes we could certainly break them down like that. I think often the colours are consistent, but not always certainly
I think that “tweedish” colors like brown and green often work better in fall/winter and that you can have a bit lighter navy in the summer than in the winter. Just my two cents.
Yes, true Carl. I think that can be a little harder to do with smaller wardrobes, but it definitely makes a difference
Simon, thank you for such an informative article and for answering so many questions. Here is mine: I am building a bespoke wardrobe and want to add more sport coats. I have the foundational navy hopsack blazer. I also have a grey herringbone tweed suit that I wear most often as just a jacket. I’ve taken your recommendation of brown and green as next steps, however I’m stuck at just one point. I recently moved to Singapore and while I want to build the foundations, I also want to be able to use them locally and not just when I travel. So, would you commission a dark brown and then green sport coat in summer cloths, unlined and soft construction, or would you recommend getting them in more “all season” like a hopsack first, then once I have the foundations set, then expanding into seasonal fabrics? (Also, does dark brown work in a tropical climate anyway?)
I think the choice of what weight to get us really up to you – it’s about how much you need to wear them locally and elsewhere, and how soon you would plan to add another option.
Dark brown certainly can, yes (see my Solito one maybe,.or Dege). But if you want a lighter colour then you could look to lighter browns or reddier browns (look up my Eduardo de Simone or Richard James respectively)
Hi Simon, I have been commissioning jackets for a few years now. So far, I own navy, mid-grey, oatmeal 11oz and mid-brown 14oz herringbone tweed jackets for winter, and plain dark brown wool/silk/linen and lightweight windowpane mid-brown linen jackets for summer. I am considering adding a navy hopsack for next summer.
Although I think I have pretty much collected the core colours for the winter and a decent number for summer, the materials and weights of those jackets make them quite tricky to wear during the transitional weather in London, so I am considering commissioning a jacket in a light weight wool. My question is, if it were you, which colour would you go for based on the ones I own? Would you go for something subtle (plain patterns or muted colours) as it would be my only transitional jacket?
Many thanks,
Jack
If you want something just for that season, I’d go for the colour among all your others that you find the most versatile. You’ll know which one that is now probably.
Do consider that the jackets can be worn in a transitional season with the addition of a cardigan underneath though, a scarf, a hat, a vest. Don’t obsess too much about having a precise jacket for each season
Thank you, Simon.
I remember you told me that the temperature matters more than the time of the year but I feel like there are strong visual associations of linen being a summer cloth and tweed a winter cloth, which makes me hesitant to choose that goes against these associations, especially in April, May, September, and October. Could I ask how you have found your Ciardi’s heavy linen double-breasted jacket so far?
I’ve found it good, but I’d say it only extended 3 weeks further into autumn and that I don’t mind so much about wearing materials in slightly different seasons
Thanks, Simon.
I think a good compromise would be to go for a mid-weight wool/linen cloth.
Do you think the brown and cream/white(?) herringbone cloth from the photo could work with light/mid-grey and dark brown trousers? I have several herringbone jackets and coats in tweed but I can’t really imagine how it would turn out when it is made into a jacket.
Yes I think that jacket could work well with those trousers
Thanks, Simon.
Could I ask what you think the colour of the herringbone would turn out when it is made up? Would it basically look like a mid-brown jacket? Similar to black and cream herringbone looking like a grey one?
I also find it hard to say, but I think it would probably have a fairly bold and noticeable pattern still
I see, I should probably look for other cloth as I would kike to avoid anything bold.
Could I ask what you think about the green cloth below? I don’t have any green jackets in my wardrobe and I feel like it’s difficult to choose one as there are so many shades of green out there, Do you think this shade could work well with light grey (same as your Cornacchina Ascot 2ply) and brown beige high twist trousers?
Yes, I think that shade looks nice and it should work with both
Thank you, Simon.
Hi Simon,
Currently going to be making my second MTM jacket through Suitsupply (got my measurements nailed down for my regular fit without it being skin tight). I have the option to choose between a full canvas or half canvas construction. Would it be wise to spend the extra 100 euro’s for the full canvas option?
It’s a pure s110 wool (270gr / m2) in dark navy for a standard SB jacket with patch pockets, basicly a staple which will get lots of wear.
Cheers in advance!
Yes, I’d always get full canvas
Cheers! What about flannels:
Mid grey + charcoal or mid grey + dark green.
I want to stay away from dark brown for now because I intent to get a full suit in dark brown corduroy later down the line.
For shoes I’m also I need of some advice. I currently have a black pair of c&j oxfords. What would he a sensible next purchases (I’v found a last that works at C & J and want to stay in that last). The options are as follows:
The intent is to wear them with flannels / slacks and sport jackets and mayby chino’s. Personally I like the suede oxford wingtip option but I also plan on getting some suede chukka boots.
Thanks in advance and enjoy Pitti Uomo
Either flannel choice would be good, really depends which look you prefer.
On the shoes have you looked at the shoe chapter in this series?
Hi Simon,
I have, sadly I have to skip loafers. I’v had issues with most loafer lasts, otherwise a dark brown suede penny loafer would be the perfect next choice.
Thinking about it, I’m probably gonna get the chukka first (since it will work with flannels, chino’s, jeans and will be that more versatile) and see if they will make an oxford with brogueing in a calf skin next season on the last I want.
Cheers!
That sounds like a good call Edwin
Hi Simon, I am looking for a navy summer cloth for a jacket which doesn’t look too smart as I find wearing a jacket itself already makes me stand out during the summer. I was just wondering if a wool/linen jacket in navy would look less corporate than similar shades of navy in Hopsack or wool/silk/linen jackets?
Many thanks,
Jack
Hey Jack – yes it would look a little less corporate
Hey Jack,
Wool/linen will look a little more casual, yes. The structure and the cut will be just as important, probably more though
I see, thank you, Simon.
Do you think the dark navy colour would make the jacket inevitably smarter regardless of the material and the structure? I have noticed I don’t have dark coloured jackets for summer evening wear. Do you mind if I ask which jackets you like to wear in summer evenings?
I do wear navy, sometimes dark brown. It would have to be a fairly smart event for me to be wearing a jacket anyway
I understand.
What do you think of this cloth for a jacket? It is 4ply high twist wool in a twill weave which I’ve never seen before, and was spongier than the other high twists I’ve known. Just by looking at it from the photo, do you think this could be well made into a jacket?
I would worry a little bit about it being spongey – a high twist isn’t usually spongey at all. What is the bunch?
The bunch is called 4ply and from Lanificio Rogna; the description says it has tropicals and cavalry twills. The cloth is fairly heavy (460g) for a spring/summer jacket. Have you seen this in person by any chance? It was strongly recommended by a tailor who is trusted for his style but was just a bit unsure as he has never seen it made up either… But having been burnt after making a jacket with highly textured 6ply wool in the past, I wanted to ask your thoughts.
I haven’t seen it and don’t know the mill I’m afraid. Given your experience I’d personally try and see it made up if you can
Sure, thank you, Simon!
Hi Jack,
I can’t tell for certain but I believe this to be the new book from Rogna (they also have a new WSL book), both of which look/feel pretty nice based on the swatches I saw/touched recently. I have no experience with commissioning anything in them . However, I believe that Suitsupply has some offerings in fabrics from these books this season. You may be able to see them in person in a store.
See here for an example: https://suitsupply.com/en-gb/men/trousers/off-white-pleated-mira-trousers/B3010.html
You can find others by searching for Rogna on their website.
Nice suggestion, thank you
Simon, do you think the cloth would be a bit too sharp for a jacket based on what other reader has posted from the Suitsupply website? It looks like cavalry twill to me. Have you ever seen 4ply high-twist fabric with such distinct twill lines? Would it weaken the characteristic of a high twist fabric that usually restricts it from being made into a jacket or would it be the opposite?
Hey Jack – I think that was just an example of something from the mill? That doesn’t tell you much. I haven’t seen it, and to be honest I wouldn’t know how it would look.
Thank you, that’s really helpful.
Hey Simon, Couple of questions for you..
Interested what you think about the old dogmas around seasonal materials. Are these things you’d venture that we should leave in the past now and base these things more on temperature and climate and individual style? Or do you think wearing a fresco wool jacket underneath a raglan tweed coat would still be bizarre? Would you wear a linen jacket on a particularly unseasonably warm february or march day, perhaps with a merino jumper and cavalry twill trousers? Or would that be some kind of out of season frankenstein’s monster of an outfit? Linen trousers and a cotton knit, with your anthology herringbone over the shoulder and put on as the evening cools on a mild day in may? And so on, I’m sure you get the point.
Beyond that, a more functional question… Art du Lin Linen to me looks like the most visually deep and interesting linen I’ve seen. Is it thick and sturdy enough to be worn outside of may-july?
Hey Jackson,
I think a lot of them should be seen as more flexible today, yes, but keep in mind the reasons they existed in the first place. Like all the Rules in our section of the site there, it’s important to just understand that linen can look a little odd if it’s clearly not warm enough for it – not because everyone knows linen tailoring, but simply because it looks cool and light often.
So in your particular scenarios, I can’t see myself ever wearing a linen jacket under a coat for example, but fresco would be fine (though fresco is usually better suits than jackets).
Art du Lin is great, but I think it still looks mostly like a linen – not a lighter weight one, but an Irish one.
That’s interesting to hear. Though I guess I’m particularly interested in what you think about where these lines are drawn when it comes to combining certain cloths during the transitional months. I guess given the breadth of your wardrobe this is an easier issue to avoid, but would you ever consider wearing a light tweed – like your anthology jacket – with something like linen trousers, or ecru jeans and a tshirt on a warm day but cool evening in the summer months. Or by that point in the year would you have retired the jacket to your loft storage? (You posted about this once – I haven’t been in a tree outside your house with binoculars, I swear) How about corduroy too?
What about a wool/linen jacket? Would you ever wear that under a coat?
Re art du lin…. when you say mostly like a linen, do you mean a linen that would be confined to the summeriest days of summer?
Sorry if my questions are rather repetitive, but I find, oddly, that this is one area of dressing that I still don’t find that instinctive, whereas colour, modes of formality and cultures or styles of dress I find come far more naturally to me. It’s probably because this areas is far more steeped in budgetary concerns and trying to keep things as broad as possible.
I think some of these materials are more seasonal, others less.
I wouldn’t combine tweed and linen, but those two feel the most seasonal-specific. Other wools don’t that much, or most cottons really.
On Art du Lin, I’d wear it throughout summer even if that not that super-summery
No worries, I understand. I think the point above is the important one – that some materials feel very much of their season, but actually a lot don’t.
Thanks Simon, interesting. Will definitely have this in mind whilst considering my next jacket
https://angloitalian.com/products/ait-093
What do you think of this cloth, Simon?
What colours of shirt/trousers do you think you could wear it with? Presumably brown trousers, pink/white/blue shirts. Cream or grey high twist trousers?
Do you think it’s a cloth that would pair well with jeans too?
I do quite like it and am wondering if it’s something that could be a jacket that see’s me through work obligations with smart trousers in the summer, and pub obligations with jeans.
I think it looks nice Jackson. A really dark brown trouser, yes, and I think most grey trousers. Cream too.
It could probably do well with jeans if it was a little soft and/or – it would be nice to see it made up if possible.
Hi Simon,
Wanted to hear your thought on this blueish green WSL jacket. Do you think it might be too bold compares to your dark green jacket from prologue? Or would it be difficult to pair? For some reason, I think green WSL gives a younger look vs brown WSL in my opinion
Many thanks
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4PPqXFJh5Z/?igsh=MWpkd2o1a3VmbTJ2NA==
I can see that with brown Christian. It’s hard to tell what the green is like from that image though – the lighting is low and it looks more blue than green
thanks for the quick response Simon. Is this something you would wear / considered to be versatile or is it a bit too bold for your taste?
Also interested to know out of the three options below, which one would you go with? Cheers
https://angloitalian.com/products/ait-059?_pos=21&_fid=ccc6cfb94&_ss=c
https://angloitalian.com/products/ait-096
https://angloitalian.com/products/ait-099
It’s quite hard to tell from the image – there is no bold check, but hard to see how the different colours in the weave contrast or don’t.
Those three Anglo ones look pretty similar, so I’d go with whichever appeals to you most personally. I’d probably go for the herringbone
I have a dark grey suit in worsted wool. I would normally never use a suit jacket as an odd jacket unless its tweed, linen or flanell. But this jacket is a bit different.
The wools texture is ”brushed” in a way that reminds of flanell, or at least worsted flanell. The bunch is a Super 120 from H&S. It also have a discreet prince of wales check. (Obvious on a short distance but not from a far). It has flap pockets but also a ticket pocket.
I wonder if you think I can use this as a sport coat in a cold/monochrome outfit. I get that I cant use it with jeans or chinos. But maybe with smart trousers in a different shade of grey.
It’s hard to say without seeing it in person, but I’d still be doubtful it could work to be honest. Sorry Carl
Ok and thanks for the honesty. I have a Neapolitan midgrey herringbone sport coat that is very similar to the one you have from Anthology. But the Harris Tweed in it is very heavy and I would like something smarter, probably in a darker grey. It can still be a herringbone. Do you have any recommendations? I 100% cashmere would be too expensive for me.
Charcoal can be tricky in an odd jacket – you need some pattern or real texture in there, like the herringbone or a donegal fleck or something.
I don’t have any specific suggestions, but I would look in the specifically jacketing bunches for something dark grey with that kind of pattern, around 9-11oz
I found the H&S wool. Or at something with the exact same pattern (I dont think the one I have is Crispaire, based on the touch/feel.
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/3321016-crispaire-charcoal-glen-check
That colour and pattern could certainly work in a wool with more texture, but in Crispaire it would be too sharp and suit-like. I guess hard to say more without knowing the texture of yours
Thanks,
I would guess it is worsted flannel or something else with a softer and more spongy feel than an ordinary worsted. I am quite sure its not Crispaire.
Hi Simon,
Imagine you are going to New York this spring. You have packed only your Levis and Real McCoys chinos
What casual DB jacket in your collection are you bringing along? Assuming in this case you are bringing one.
Thanks!
I’m not sure I’d wear any DB with my McCoy’s chinos I’m afraid Dan! But the closest would probably be my Ciardi DB linen, that’s what I would bring.
Hi Simon,
I have followed your advice and got a jacket made in grey herringbone (https://foxflannel.com/products/sp32) which is a touch darker than the one you mentioned in this article. I now struggle with which trousers I can wear with it. It looks good on denim and works with a navy moleskin chino and cream flannel that have, but I like some more options.
Any other suggestions?
How about navy flannels, navy serge or cav twill, also dark brown flannel, and cream or beige chinos?
Thanks. Would the brown and perhaps a charcoal also work in high twist?
Charcoal might be a bit similar to the jacket, but brown would be good.
What would be the summer equivalent of this? Will navy high-twist work, with grey jacket and maybe a brown jacket?
Yes, navy high twist would work
Hi Simon,
What do you think about a camel colored sports coat? What trousers would you wear it with?
I think that can be quite hard to wear. It’s one reason I suggest things like oatmeal – more muted and easier as a result.
Camel can be great as a more unusual colour, and can work with a variety of neutrals and brown/greens
Hi Simon, would you not commission a DB jacket if you don’t own one in the same colour in SB? As I have never had a DB jacket, I can’t imagine how much less versatile and smarter it would be than the SB made in the same cloth. So far, I have all five jacket colours in 10-11oz tweed, which are useful for three seasons but not for the summer. For a summer navy jacket, I am considering commissioning a navy hopsack in DB, which was the cloth I was hesitant to use for SB due to its corporate look, but I saw someone in Jeremyn Street wearing a navy DB jacket and olive trousers, and it looked fabulous and not corporate at all.
Many thanks,
Jack
No, I would happily commission a DB in a material I didn’t have an SB in
I see. Would you say the DB jacket would look smarter than SB in Hopsack? Technically, I know that DB should be smarter than SB. Still, as it is pretty rare to find any office workers wearing DB jackets these days, I think wearing DB somehow makes a person look less corporate/lessens the formality. Would you agree as someone who owns both DB and SB in hopsack cloth?
I’d say the DB is naturally smarter, but it can be casual if you wear it a certain way – rarely done up, hands often in trouser pockets etc. Treat it more like a casual piece
I got it. Thank you, Simon.
Simon,
I hope all is well- I wanted to ask you for your opinion for a hopsack jacket for summer. I’m doing a SB jacket, with some light lining at the back and in the sleeves. My question is, I want to wear this as a spezzato- so navy jacket and dark grey pants or jeans, do I need to have the blazer made shorter or same length as my regular suit jacket? Or will the texture help with ensuring that people understand it’s a blazer and not the top half of a navy suit?
Also the weight I went with 290 grams 10 oz. Should be suitable for summer?
Thanks!
Hey,
With that material I don’t think there would be any risk of it looking like the top half of a suit, no worries.
The weight would be good for summer, yes.
You could have the jacket a little shorter if you wanted, but I wouldn’t go very far, maybe just a centimetre or two. Depends how long you have your suit jackets though.
By the way, I wouldn’t pay much attention to the idea of spezzato. Most of the time you don’t want to break up two parts of a suit if it’s remotely smart, and if you’re doing it with other things, it’s just a sports jacket.
Hi Simon, I do hope you are keeping well. I wanted your opinion/advice on the following: I have recently put forward an order for a sportcoat – SB, patch pockets, half lined, no frills (no fuddy duddyness) – albeit, its bespoke as I really wanted no dart on the front (a nod to the florentine cut) and pattern matching and something easy to wear for summer cocktail parties only – in and around Italy.
I have a midnight navy hopsack and a fawn coloured mockleno jacket already (again, no frills) and in a moment of madness during the appointment, I was ‘inspired’ by the late Gianni Agnelli, and upon an espresso binge pinterest hunt for caramel glencheck sportcoats – i went along with the Standeven montrose bay camel (see below)
Or the link: https://pepperlee.co.uk/collections/montrose-bay/products/glen-check-wool-silk-linen-jacketing-kynoch-montrose-bay?variant=45460531544383
Intended use is for summer – i was thinking with off white or grey trousers, blue/pink shirts and suede shoes.
Now the honeymoon period is over, bespoke buyers remorse has kicked in, was it too bold of of a choice? I only ever wear navy and greys, and only last year got into the fawn coloured jacket, but no patterns – I always played with texture!
Now I went full on with wool/silk/linen in a camel brown with light blue stripe glencheck – is it as versatile as it seems over pictures? Or do you think I should try and stop the order and go with a subtle cloth – if so, do you have any recommendations?
I don’t think that will be all that bold, Roberto, and it will certainly work with the combinations you mentioned. Whether it’s still too bold for you or not is a personal thing though, and hard for me to comment on.
If the cloth hasn’t been ordered and you did want other options, most of my thoughts are in this piece – eg dark browns
Hello Simon, I hope you are doing well.
To briefly introduce myself, I am an entrepreneur who has just started my own business in the UK. I am not required to wear a suit or smart tailoring to work as I am not an office worker. Still, I am very into wearing sports jackets and trousers. My go-to cloth for most of the year is Shetland tweed. However as you may be aware it is not easy to find tweed-like cloths for summer. I find most summer cloths out there too shiny and fine which looks like a suit jacket, I guess it is because summer cloths are worsted rather than woollen.
I have two questions for you if you don’t mind me asking. I am considering if I should have a Neapolitan jacket made in navy mock leno cloth since I think it would look less like an office worker due to its heavier texture than hopsack. If you were a person who has a similar lifestyle as me, would you opt for it? The second question is, if you only had one jacket for summer, what would you choose?
Sorry, I am asking you many questions, and thank you very much in advance.
Best,
GD
No worries GD, it is a consistent issue.
Mock leno won’t feel that different to hopsack I wouldn’t have thought, it will look quite smart still.
This is a consistent issue because mills aren’t set up to provide casual cloths like this. I’ve sought out rare ones for mine, but you might actually be better looking at MTM options or even altering RTW from a brand, that has more casual options
Thank you very much for your response. Do you have suggestions on which MTM/RTW brands would offer a jacket with such cloths?
Not many I’m afraid, but someone like Ralph Lauren is a good one (good for looking for old ones on eBay too)
Hello Simon, I hope you are keeping up well.
I bought a jacket in a light taupe. However, I am finding it hard to pair it with shirts and pants. I am now regretting that I should have followed your list of top 5 jackets. Can you please help me choose the colours for my pants and shirt?
Best
Shlok
Hey there,
Well, cream/white should be easy. Then I’d look to a dark grey. If it’s not too strong a colour it should work with black. And then after that I’d look at things like stone and dark brown, trying to keep them quite subtle but with enough contrast with the jacket.
Many thanks for the suggestions. It is sad that most of the colours you recommended are not my usual pants colours. This is mainly because 1. Dark pants only look good with black shoes, and 2. Bright pants are far from a low-key look (it is a very personal opinion, so please understand). This is why I always like to wear medium gray and light beige pants..The problem is with my untrained eyes, I am not sure if these two colours contrast with this jacket. What will happen if there is no contrast?
Hey,
Dark grey trousers can work with shoes other than black – very dark browns are fine, as is something like Color 8 cordovan. I wear both regularly.
I understand on bright trousers, but something like stone (typical chino colour) doesn’t have to be bright.
If you have less contrast, you can try and make it work better by wearing a higher contrast shirt (start with white) and by breaking the two pieces up with a belt.
Hey Simon,
I enjoyed your article and appreciate the capsule approach. I am in my mid-thirties and hitting the reset button on the wardrobe. Looking to build a versatile collection of suits/jackets/pants. My career requires the occasional suit/sport coat so this should be viewed through a personal and professional lens.
I have a blue suit that I had made for my wedding and still very much love and just had the following made: mid/dark grey herringbone suit, blue sport coat, brown sport coat. Pictures of all attached.
I am considering the addition of another sport coat and/or another suit. I am also a big fan of houndstooth (tan, brown, or grey) and curious if you think that would fit in? Would love to get your perspective on what to add and how many pairs/what colors of pants you would recommend to round things out? I would like my collection to be described as timeless and clean. The wardrobe is a journey, but looking to get a solid start!
Nice breakdown Adam.
I think the obvious things you’re missing are a real navy jacket or suit (these are very blue) and a dark plain jacket like a dark brown or dark green. That brown looks quite grey and has a strong check.
To be honest I would also avoid the houndstooth as you already have a jacket with a prominent pattern.
Obviously this article and the one here on smart trousers are also going to be the best points of reference for building both out.
Hey Simon,
Into which colour category would you put your jacket in the link below? Thanks.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2022/03/a-collared-cardigan-under-a-jacket-ciardi-and-colhays.html
The dark brown, even though it isn’t that dark
Hi Simon, hope you are having a good week so far. I just wanted to ask for your opinion regarding a first fall/winter sports jacket thats versatile. If I were to commission my first jacket for F/W (and something other than navy), would you recommend a fabric similar to your WW Chan tweed jacket, or something like a tonal brown or grey POW check?
Hey Luke – I think that’s mostly covered in the piece above? I.e. grey herringbone or dark brown in a similar fabric. A POW would stand out a little more
Ah I should’ve read that a little more carefully. Also, apologies as I’m not sure if this is the right thread, but I also wanted to ask if there is any possibility you’d bring the finest polo or dartmoor in a size xs in the future? Thanks Simon!
No worries Luke, that’s fine.
There are no plans to do that on those models as stock, but perhaps we can look to do a pre-order next year for other sizes
Simon,
I have the Fox samples TD11 and TD20, both in a darkish Char Brown, one Twill and one Herringbone. You can see them on their website. Very beautiful colours. There’s also a split pattern.
I like the twill.
I’d been reading the guide to:-
“If I had 5 Jackets”…right?
I’ve the following:-
13oz Steed Bespoke in Navy HFW CROWN CLASSIC NAVY TWILL, part of a suit but effective with my grey cavalry twill trousers.
A cheap striped blue/white Summer seersucker jacket and navy cotton chinos.
A slightly better golden herringbone jacket in 12oz HFW WORSTED ALLSPORT with a faint light blue windowpane.
NEW PROJECT MTM Single Breasted Summer Jacket in half canvas in the process of making in 12oz DUGDALE TROPICALAIR 4609 BRIGHT BLUE MOCKLENO in MTM by Andrew Watson in Belfast.
I will reveal the finished piece later.
This will replace my cheap navy corduroy jacket which is way too heavy anyway.
Enough now in navy’s and blue.
Here’s where I need advice.
For a future project the Fox fabric above comes between Grey and Brown and may bridge the gap between them for the sake of cost…. It will be a Winter jacket probably a Whitcomb & Shaftesbury commission in their Classic offshore method but this is strictly “down the line” for now and I hope will fill the grey/ brown jacket category.
What’s your opinion on that please?
I think that’s a very nice idea Lindsay. I would only say to try and see the fabric in person if you can, as it has a slightly pinkish tone (hence ‘rosewood’) that is lovely but won’t be for everyone. If you’re really going just for versatility, I might choose a more normal grey herringbone
Definitely don’t like a “negative” cast in any colour swatch. I learned that from Edwin, my tailor with Steed when assessing a grey swatch which had a yellowish cast.
However, that same bunch has a beautiful grey/ ecru herringbone which quite tempts me. What’s your thought on that one? And a distinctive grey twill as well.
Anyways, that’s for later.
Thanks indeed .
Let’s take the grey herringbone jacket that you had made, part of a suit if I’m correct at the Anthology?
As I won’t be going abroad for tailoring, what, if any , would be the nearest equivalent tailor in style to the Anthology?
The Anthology hold very regular trunk shows in London, Lindsay, and indeed the founder Buzz is based in London. If you like that style I would make an appointment to see them
Super help
Many thanks
Lindsay
I’m planning my second bespoke commission from one of the many reputable tailors you’ve featured here. My first was a mid grey wedding suit in drapers 4 ply. Very conservative and single breasted.
I’m thinking about my first bespoke separates comission now, and have been considering a navy DB blazer in Piacenza Dunes. I love how I’ve seen them worn recently in casual settings.(Your article on Seiji is lovely.). But am somewhat wary it’s a passing trend.
Do you still hold by the advice that a SB is probably the way to go for first commissions? For additional context, I’m in an artistic field, and never in a formal office environment.
Thanks in advance for the time.
I think so, yes, but it is very much a question of personal style. The hard thing is knowing which will suit your personal style more if you haven’t had one before – have you had a DB jacket RTW before?
I’ve never owned a DB before. Closest I’ve come is a vintage wwii USM peacoat. I love it, but only get a few months of the year out of it here in Southern California. I know that’s a very different thing though…
Im loathe to go buy one to ‘try it out.’ That always seems a waste of somewhat limited resources for this kind of thing. But maybe picking up something vintage first is the way to go.
If you can find a good one and it’s not too expensive, then yes. Even something cheap on eBay. Otherwise I’d go single breasted
Hi Simon, hope you are keeping well.
I have a couple of questions regarding my jacket commissions – I have decided to commission a dark brown corduroy DB jacket and am also considering commissioning another dark brown jacket in wool/cashmere SB. I am quite into brown but do you think commissioning the same shades of dark brown at once would be overkill even if those two are completely different cloths and styles (DB, SB)? Just to note, I have pretty much all the colours covered except for dark brown jacket from your capsule suggestions.
If that is the case, I have another option of a mid-brown wool/cashmere in mind. But I just wanted to ask for your thoughts on whether the shade looks subtle enough to wear with other cold colours. I have attached a photo for your reference.
Many thanks,
Jack
Hi Jack,
I think that shade would probably work well, yes. However, can I suggest you commission one jacket first in dark brown, and see how useful you find it in your wardrobe? That way you’ll have a better idea of whether another would be too much or not
Sure, thank you for the suggestion. But my only concern is, whether the dark brown DB corduroy jacket will be a good reference point to determine if future dark brown jackets will be useful to have in my wardrobe, given both the cut (DB) and material (corduroy) are relatively unusual choices
That’s true, but I think you’ll still know a lot more than you do now
Right. On a side note, I noticed that you went for roped shoulders for your Ciardi’s corduroy jackets. Do you find them a bit more difficult to pair with jeans?
A tiny bit, but the make is so relaxed it’s fine
Great, thank you, Simon.
I have a final question as I am torn between two options got corduroy cloths mainly regarding the weight of the cloth. The one I marginally prefer weighs 385g/13.5oz whereas the other 315g/11oz. Do you think this would make a noticeable difference in terms of being able to wear on warmer days without making me feel too hot?
No, I don’t think so
Hi Simon, I saw in your Instagram reels that you wore a navy Hopsack jacket and the PS finest polo with a pair of pale blue jeans. Wasn’t this combination something you have been against going for? They seemed to work pretty well from the video but I wonder how you found them.
Many thanks,
Jack
I’ll cover that in an upcoming article Jack. It’s not something I’d recommend to everyone
Aha, will look forward to it!
Might sound like a silly question here Simon, but when you buy a semi-finished sports coat, do you have to get the surgeons cuff done separately at your own cost? I’m referring to Ring Jackets in particular as I’ve only seen them semi finished everywhere.
I’ve never had one semi-finished I’m afraid, Abi, so I couldn’t say
Hahahahaha. Fair enough. Thanks Simon.
My experience is that it will be handled by the store if you buy it there. But that you will have to fix it if you buy it online or pay for it if its in sale.
Hi Simon, I noticed that you seem not to commission jackets with Loro Piana seasonal cloths, (or at least don’t post them to the site). Is it because you found them a bit unusual for your taste and preferred other merchants’? Or are there any other reasons?
Many thanks,
Jack
It’s usually because they’re a bit unusual in the summer colours, yes, but also that they’re often the lighter weight and more luxurious ones, which doesn’t tend to be what I like as much
Simon this is an interesting discussion. Could you explain what it is about lighter fabrics and so called ‘luxurious’ materials that doesn’t appeal to you? I’m curious to hear your thoughts. Also, I’d be keen to know what you personally consider ‘luxurious.’ How do you define it in terms of fabrics or clothing?
Sure.
Personally, I find those lighter, luxe fabrics don’t drape very well. They lose their shape easily and don’t have the lines that a good tailor is trying to draw around the body. They’re also not as strong and less likely to last as long.
By luxurious here, I mean fine wools (super 180s and up), rarer fibres (cashmere, vicuna, silk) and an overall look or weave that prioritises a shiny, luxurious-looking surface.
More explanation on those kinds of things in the guide to cloth.
Amazing, that’s good to know. Thank you so much.
By your standards, what would you consider to be a lightweight fabric in terms of grams/ounces? Would it then be correct to understand that most of Loro Piana’s jacketing fabrics are luxurious but have less drape and durability?
I’d say 9-10oz and below would be lightweight.
Many Loro Piana are, yes, but not all by any means.
Hi Simon,
I’m looking to get my first smarter jacket/sports coat in navy and I like the look of John Simon’s ivy jacket, but I can’t decide between the linen or the hopsack. I’m looking for something for use in the British Spring/Summertime and I would probably only be wearing it more casually with chinos and jeans. What would you suggest would best cover that?
Hey George. In that case I’d say linen probably, hopsack could be a little too smart for what you want to wear it with
Hi Simon, hope all is well, and thank you for this very informative article. I was wondering if you could help me out on my second sport coat choice. I currently have a solid SB navy sport coat with a 55% Linen, 25% Silk, 20% cotton blend with a beautiful subtle texture. Because of the blend, I’m hoping I can use this for all seasons, but please let me know if I should avoid during Fall and Winter. For a second jacket, I’m considering a brown patterned sport coat. I would love it if if you can tell me if either of these would be good for a second sportcoat, and which one you think would be better:
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_tty9GsrSy/?hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/p/C6b7PR3rorW/?hl=en&img_index=1
Or do you think I should not make any brown sport coat purchase and just focus on a Fall/Winter navy sport coat? Appreciate your amazing advice, as always.
Well, that navy is unlikely to be good for winter, it sounds quite light. But up to you whether you want a different colour or a more winter material next
As to those two jackets, I think dark brown is a great colour to go for, but the difference between those is mostly about the patterns – houndstooth or glen check. Which do you like best and which do you think will be more unusual or stand out more, if you don’t want that?
Hello Simon, I’m planning to commission a winter jacket with wool/cashmere cloth, and I’m considering either a mid-brown herringbone similar to your Eduro Simone or a dark taupe. If you were in my position, would you go for one that is darker and smarter due to the nature of the cloth, or just go with the colour you prefer regardless? By the way, I am not particularly restricted by the smartness in terms of my lifestyle/environment. I know this is an entirely personal choice but it has been difficult to make up my mind so I feel that your opinion would be quite helpful.
Many thanks,
Jack
You’re right Jack, that does sound pretty personal and I’d largely leave it up to you. The only thing I would say to consider is which would be more useful and how much you care about that or need that (given what you have already). I wouldn’t worry about that smartness/colour point. They’ll both be fairly smart
Thanks, Simon.
Obviously, my aim is to avoid getting a jacket that maybe too similar I’m terms of it’s use or style to what I already have(navy tweed, mid-grey tweed, PS mid-brown Harris tweed, PS oatmeal Shetland tweed and dark brown DB corduroy). So I am concerned whether the dark taupe may not be sufficiently different from dark brown corduroy(especially as I only got it recently) and also whether the mid-brown herringbone the other option may not be sufficiently different from PS oatmeal Shetland.
One of the reasons I was considering a new jacket in dark taupe in the first place is that I wanted something smart for the evening but not as corporate as navy, but having just got the dark brown DB corduroy, I am not so sure if it would fulfil what I’m looking for.
Sorry, I understand this is a bit of an open-ended question, but it’s something I haven’t been able to decide on for months, so I really wanted to ask.
Hi Simon!
What do you think of these 3 cloths for a fall/winter odd jacket good for daily commutes or even for traveling without an overcoat (baseline would be NYC climate)?
https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/98804/
https://theanthology.net/shop/coats/a-wrap-coat-brown-cavalry-twill
https://foxflannel.com/collections/coating/products/fox-gorse-keepers-tweed
Many thanks!
Harrisons: I’ve only tried Spring Ram in the lighter weight but that was much more of a suiting material. Not sure if this is better for separate jacket
Anthology: This is quite sharp and a little heavy. Hard to imagine but could make quite a cool jacket, would just have that sharpness to it
Fox: This is a heavy shooting-type tweed I think, which would be sharp in a similar way. The kind of tweed that makes a good suit but most tweeds don’t, because they are more open and spongey
Hi Simon,
Since you already have a grey herringbone jacket, what kind of pattern would you choose for a first dark brown jacket? Would you go for a solid one with some texture like a hopsack? Or would you pick POW, gun-club, or another herringbone?
Thanks
I wouldn’t mind have two herringbones myself! But it might be nicer to go for something plain or with a prominent twill instead.
I would think it would be a bigger priority that some of those would be a different look though – a PoW or gun club could be rather louder than a herringbone. Also, hopsack I think of as a question of smartness. It’s just a plain, but the reason you go with it is that you want something smart and summery
If you already have navy blazers for different seasons and the grey herringbone jacket, do you think that having both a hopsack dark brown, and also a dark brown heavy cotton games blazer be good versatile options to cover most situations when wearing dark brown? Would they tick your boxes as far as your jacket capsule?
Having two brown like that certainly would, though I’d not sure I’d go with brown hopsack – the material might not suit the colour that much. I’d look at wool/silk/linens first probably
How about Loro Piana’s pecora nera wool fabric? It looks like it is a plain fabric. I have seen on Armoury’s models before. Would it be a good one to commission a jacket?
Thanks
Yes, that’s very nice
Hi Simon,
Could you expand a bit on your point about SB always being more practical? It’s true that workplaces requiring jackets have become few and far between, and these days it’s not often you see people wearing them. That said, from my perspective, when someone pulls off a DB well, it tends to look less corporate and more stylish than SB. Take Oliver from Rubato or Buzz from The Anthology, for instance. Even though they’re in the menswear industry, do you think DB still has that striking, standout appeal for men who generally have more freedom in what they wear, as you suggested?
Thanks,
Major
Yes I think it does, definitely I love them myself for that reason. But I’m aware that’s not what a lot of people want out of a jacket like this – they want something more every day, where the style is more in the outfit or combination perhaps, rather than a single item
Hi Simon, I have been searching for the dark taupe cloth for a jacket, but it has proven to be quite challenging. The closest shade I found is from the Loro Piana jacketing range. However, to my eyes, it borders between charcoal and charcoal brown, which is concerning as my plan was to wear it with charcoal flannels and black jeans. While I completely understand it may also be difficult for you to tell, it would be really helpful to hear your opinion. I have attached a photo: the one on the top is the shade I believe to be dark taupe, and the one on the bottom is a true dark brown from their range.
Many thanks,
Jack
I think the taupe looks fine Jack. If you’re in doubt you could always take some charcoal trousers in and hold them against it, but I think it will be fine. Also, if you’re unsure, you can wear a belt with the trousers, and/or have a different look of material in the trousers, eg something more smooth and matte
That’s reassuring to hear that it looks like a dark taupe to you. As you suggested, just to be sure, I’ll still compare it with the charcoal flannel cloth I’m planning to wear it with. While I think seeing the bunch book in person is generally reliable, sometimes the jacket turns out either darker or lighter than expected. Anyways, thanks, Simon!
Is a jacket made of tweed fabric significantly more casual than a jacket made of cashmere or wool/cashmere blend? I’m aware that the level of formality tends to shift with the fineness of the fabric but given how rare tailored jackets are these days, I can’t help but feel that, to most people, either option would come across as quite formal anyway.
Yes you’re probably right. Within the spectrum of tailored jackets, it’s a lot more casual, but a tailored jacket is still quite smart
Hi again, Simon. I hope you can answer some of my questions about blazers.
1. I mean to remember that you reccomended lining (full or half?) in a tweed blazer? Why is that?
2. You also wrote that the type of pockets has a middling effect on the formality of a blazer, but would you say there are some rules regarding the choice of pockets in connection to the formality? For instance a very casual blazer where flap pockets would be inappropriate, and some where patch pockets don’t fit?
3. Would you say a suit jacket/blazer in worsted could work on its own if it is in an dark green colour and have micro check/houndstooth as pattern?
4. I saw a nice, casual linen jacket in dark brown with lining and flap pockets, which had a good fit. Though, I feel such a jacket should be unlined and have patch pockets. What do you think?
5. I know you are not covering many RTW brands, but do you know where I can look for a navy woolen/wool cashmere jacket with a regular fit? I find those difficult to find, where for instance Boglioli og Ralph Lauren are too slim.
Thank you so much in advance!
Hi Jonas,
This is probably too much to answer in one comment. Would you mind looking at articles specifically on these subjects – eg in the Guide to Suit Style – and asking there if the article doesn’t answer your queries?
Thanks for the article! I found this gray/brown jacket online and was wondering whether it fits into any of the 5 categories in this article, and what trousers you’d pair it with.
It doesn’t necessarily, and I don’t think it would be quite as versatile, but still really nice! I’d wear it with white/ecru trousers and jeans, black ones, maybe brown and maybe dark navy
Hello Simon, I’m an avid reader of your posts and always look forward to them. A few years back, after reading one of your insightful guides, I started collecting jackets – one each year. I now have four, and somewhat unintentionally, three of them are made from fabrics you’ve released. Of course, I chose these fabrics because I genuinely liked them and felt they suited me, but now I’m wondering if I’ve taken the easy, safe route by not putting in more thought. It also makes me wonder if I’m inadvertently branding myself as a ‘Permanent Style’ follower!
Anyway, I support your work and wish you continued success in the future!
Best,
Daniel
Thank you.
I wouldn’t think so – the blog isn’t that big! More important is whether they fit with what you need for your lifestyle
The most important thing for a brand is the logo. You have no logo, there’s your answer I think.
Hello! I am considering a new corduroy and a new tweed jacket. I am thinking about the colours and wondering what the best combinations of colours would be. The best combination, I think, would be a dark brown tweed and a dark green corduroy (but the corduroy may only be available in dark brown). Then what would be the second best? The tweed in dark green together with the dark brown corduroy, or both jackets in dark brown?
I’d get one first and see how you feel about the colour and material rather than planning both, but I do think they could work well either way round
I see, thanks! What would be the most versatile combination of colours?
Either way round of those two colours would be good – but I suggest doing one first and playing with it, as it depends on your wardrobe and personal style a little as well
Hi simon i have 2 sportcoat – a navy wool db and a dark brown wool check sb. Ive been meaning to add a dark brown or olive cotton sb jacket in ivy style but im liking how chic jackets with grey/black houndstooth look (https://theanthology.net/shop/sport-jackets/merino-wool-sport-jacket-black-white-houndstooth). Do you think they can be worn casually or are they inherently quite smart?
I think the pattern can be quite casual, but it all depends on the wool, the fabric. Eg the PS houndstooth we did with Fox is very casual, but this Anthology one looks a little smarter. Also smarter often if there’s high contrast between black and white. Eg see this old silk one I used to have.
As long as it’s rough and tweedy, no reason it can’t be casual, in the same way as a herringbone
Thanks simon, if it was you, would you go for them plain cotton jackets or something in houndstooth as a third odd jacket ?
Probably houndstooth, but that’s driven by personal style as well as by environment I guess Shem
Hi Simon, I’m a huge fan of your website and information, but I’m struggling with something I am hoping you can help me with either through a previous article which I have yet to find, or a new response.
I have a very athletic build (broad chest, wide lats) and despite being only 5’9″ or 175cm in height wear a 46″ US-sized blazer. I need to find a good blazer or two for wearing everyday, not too winter-y, not too summer-y and something between two lazers that can be dressed up (chinos/slacks) or down (jeans). I cannot for the life of me find something that isn’t MTM (and ideally I want to spend around $500-$1000 USD +/-).
Do you have any recommendations to check out?
Hey James,
I’m not sure I do I’m afraid. I don’t know a brand that makes to more athletic silhouettes like that as ready to wear. You might be stuck with MTM unfortunately
Thank you, Simon. I was worried that might be your response. MTM will be the way to go I guess. May I ask about whether or not you have suggestions for reasonably priced MTM blazer, and if you have experience with MTM ordering from a distance (i.e.: without being there in person!). Warmly, James
I’ve tried quite a few MTM places – summarised here. Not sure what you would call reasonable! We do focus more on the high end though
Very few of those have been from a distance – J Mueser was one
Hi Simon,
I hope you’re well. I’m starting a job in the City in a couple of weeks, and the company’s dress code is described as ‘dress for your diary,’ leaning towards smart casual or business casual. While I have a general sense of what that entails, some aspects are still a bit unclear.
Do you think wearing a jacket every day would be appropriate? I’m quite fond of jackets and have built up a decent collection over the years, so it would be a shame not to make use of them. In particular, I’m a fan of double-breasted sports jackets in darker colours, but I’m a bit concerned they might come across as too flashy or over the top.
I’d really value your advice on how to strike the right balance.
Best regards,
Henry
Hey Henry,
It’s always hard to tell in advance – I think you’ll learn a lot more when you get there and see what your peers are wearing. It’s one reason I advise people not to buy that much in advance of a new job.
I suspect DB jackets might be a little smart though, if it’s leaning smart casual/business casual. You might end up wearing tailored trousers, nice knits, nice leather shoes, and then having a jacket in the office for external meetings.
Let me know how you get on thought, always interested to hear how these things play out
Thank you for coming back to me so quickly. I will indeed update you once I find out.
Just another additional question, generally speaking in London at a workplace, is it usually perceived as inappropriate to wear smarter outfits than peers? I mean wouldn’t a smart looking outfit always be preferable in a professional scene? As you said, I would never actually be certain what others would wear until I start, but having observed people on the street, I have a bad feeling that the jackets would be rare over there as well.
No worries Henry.
To be honest no, in can be seen as bad to be too smart – maybe ideas above your station, but at a more basic level just not being appropriate. Dressing well is just as much about dressing for your environment as it is about dressing smartly. Often the best way to be different is the quality or fit of things, rather than a different item that draws more obvious attention
Hi Simon,
I love these wardrobe building articles, they are an invaluable resource.
On the smarter end of the spectrum – I have a great navy hopsack (summer) and a navy cashmere (winter), both lightweight but English in cut, which I wear with mid-grey and charcoal high-twists in the summer / flannels in the winter.
They serve me very well but are getting a bit repetitive now and over-used.
I’m struggling to figure out where to go next. As it’s for smartish/business casual situations (tailored but usually no tie), earthy colours like brown, green and oatmeal feel too country and casual. However a grey would clash with the trousers (and the same applies if I branch out on trousers – navy doesn’t work that well, the other options lower the formality too much).
Would perhaps a hopsack jacket in olive or brown, if sufficiently grey and urban in tone, work?
I think I saw in the comments above that you weren’t keen on hopsack in brown as it is a casual colour in a smarter weave.
Interested to hear what you think. Thanks again for a brilliant series.
Ben
I think a brown in hopsack could work, but it’s a little risky – the tone has to be right. Ideally see one made up.
But I would suggest dark browns and mid-greys or charcoals (with a navy trouser) as your best next option. Perhaps the navy trousers might be ok if you wear them with one or even two grey jackets? Nice with a knit on their own as well
Thanks Simon, that’s helpful. Yes perhaps a navy trouser/grey jacket can work. Also, whilst I’d always thought dark brown might be too casual, actually for the winter months, something like your dark brown WW Chan jacket (in the 2024 cold “which office” post) looks quite versatile. I just need to think of a summer equivalent. As you say, hopsack is risky – Anglo had a good fabric, but I haven’t seen it made up. Maybe something like the art-du-lin as it seems a bit smarter than most linens?
If you want smart, I’d say look to wool/silk/linens and similar, rather than Art du Lin
Hi Simon, I currently own 2 sportscoat:
1) An anthology MTM double breasted dark navy blazer in piacenza wool. Textured and can be worn casually
2) A dark brown glencheck rtw ring jacket blazer (https://www.beige-habilleur.com/en/sport-jackets/2381-glencheck-balloon-jacket-brown.html). Very useful and versatile but the fit is on the slim side for me
I’m looking for a third one and wondering if this (https://theanthology.net/shop/sport-jackets/wool-sport-jacket-the-anthology-x-jkf-man-harris-tweed) is a useful colder weather option. Wanted to get your opinion in 3 areas:
1) Do you think the jacket is too… cheery? The blue looks kinda bold in the pics and not as muted as I hope
2) Do you think this jacket goes well with khaki chinos or is this too close in colour you think?
3) I know this is very personal but would you get a 3rd jacket like what i am doing now or would you actually get another dark brown jacket which fits well (and replace the ring jacket one) before moving on to getting jackets in other colors/patterns?
So, I think the colours are really nice. Whether that check is for you is a question of your style and if you like checks like that which are always going to be a bit bolder.
It would be fine with chinos I think.
Personally I’d be boring and get a brown or a grey herringbone, but as you say it is very personal, to the point of being not that useful
Simon, I wanted to get your thoughts on the Natural Flex Wool Twill blazer by The Anthology. The fabric caught my attention because, from their description, it has a texture similar to cavalry twill but with the stretch of jersey. Do you think it would be easy to wear in a more casual way, say with jeans and other relaxed pieces?
Link below:
https://theanthology.net/shop/sport-jackets/natural-flex-wool-twill-blazer-navy
I haven’t seen it in person Eugene, but from what I can see online it looks like it would be harder to wear with more casual things – it would be a little bit of a deliberate contrast look perhaps
Got it. I’ve already got a lightweight navy tweed SB jacket—do you think getting another navy SB in hopsack would be a bit redundant? Or would it make more sense to go for a DB hopsack instead? Btw, I’m based in London. Thanks a lot
I wouldn’t say redundant, no, as they’re for different seasons. It depends how much you want DB as a different style
Hi Simon,
How about a 5 jacket (or maybe a minimum number) to have a nice variety for four season wear? Preferably with ones that can do double duty as smart and casual, or maybe one all-season workhorse in the mix? I was thinking a couple of tweed, an all season Navy, an all season grey or brown, and a summer weight lighter brown and navy.
Aaron
That sounds like a nice mix, yes. If you want different season-specific ones but also versatility you’re always going to be quite limited in terms of colours
Hi Simon,
Would this jacket go well with jeans?
And what seasons/temperature would this cover? Can it cover most of spring and fall?
https://theanthology.net/chronicles/oatmeal-herringbone-tweed-sport-jacket
Yes and yes!
Awesome! How does the fabric weight compare to the gray one you had made with them? Is the gray one heavier? I believe they are both from Holland & Sherry?
Thanks again!
They are. One’s a Harris tweed, the other a Shetland, which means the latter is a little smoother, but they wear in a similar way in terms of warmth
Hi Simon. Thank you in advance for your work and for this incredible article.
I have a dark oatmeal Herringbone jacket with Moon Shetland Wool.
https://www.moons.co.uk/product/2002-12/
Is it possible to combine this jacket with brown trousers?
Besides brown colour, best colours of trousers could be white, grey/charcoal and olive for this dark oatmeal jacket?
To be honest that oatmeal looks pretty much just grey, and so you could wear it with anything other than a similar grey
Thank you for your response.
In real life, the colour of the jacket is a mix between grey, brown and beige (I think so, maybe I’m wrong).
I have a navy flannel trousers as odd trousers similar than the brown trousers of the pic, but I think it’s to risky to wear this trousers with this jacket. I read also an excellent article from you about navy trousers, so could it be better wear this trousers with knitwear/shirts and forget to use with jackets?
Perhaps, yes, though it is a little hard there to advise remotely as it depends on the shades.
If you can, the best is to try and understand as best you can what I’m warning against as an effect, and use your own judgement as to whether that’s happening
Thank you very much one more time, Simon
Do you know about the Harrison Burra Bay fabric? I’m considering commissioning a sports jacket with this fabric—would it work as an all year round jacket?
https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/92510/
https://www.satotailor.com/blog/?p=38349
It depends where you live. It is a nice fabric but quite light. In England I wouldn’t wear it in winter and not much of autumn either. I’d want 11-13oz and up for those
What’s your go-to summer jacket, the one you wear the most and love the most? Do you ever wear a green jacket often? I don’t know why, but summer fabrics always seem so much flashier and shinier than winter ones… What’s up with that?
Well, it’s probably partly the fact that a lot of the cloths and makers are Italian, and they tend to like more colour and flash in the summer. Of course, when it’s sunny it is also much easier to wear more colour.
I wear neutrals most though, and probably my Pirozzi silk the most
The silk jacket looks stunning. I’ve never seen summer fabrics that muted and matte before but unfortunately, it looks like it’s no longer available… Any suggestions on where to find similar shades in a matte texture?
We actually have an article coming up on that Simon, watch this space….
Sounds good! Fingers crossed it comes in time for the summer jacket commission!
Hello Simon! Do you mind sharing what your summer jacket commissions will be for this year? Thanks a lot
I was actually thinking of doing an article on that Ted, as part of our Spring Highlights piece. So keep an eye out for that
Hi Simon.
In my view this piece (and others of a similar nature) are really fantastic and some of the most useful on the site, so well done and thank-you.
I am interested in your opinion on light blue jackets. I find them to be fantastic for day-time wear whether in the summer or the winter (think a woold/linen/silk blend for summer and cashmere for winter) but then find that there really isn’t much written about them, including on this website.
I don’t understand why such a color is not seen more favorably. My only issue is that I love wearing them with white or off-white trousers (which I think they look best) which then limits the kind of shirt I can wear (most shades of blue wouldn’t work and neither would white and so I would need to wear a pink shirt or a dark blue shirt (a green shirt may work too, in the right shade)). Of course if you wear such jackets with beige or tan trousers you don’t have the problem with the shirting but the jackets doesn’t look as good in my opinion. Of course a light grey would work too and look good but hard to get these in a causal summer cloth.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Thanks Nezar, that’s great to hear. If you have any ideas for similar articles do let me know.
The reason is a style one – a light-blue jacket with white trousers is a fairly bright and kind of showy outfit, which is not the style most people want (most of the time, in most places). I have had a linen jacket and a tweed jacket in a colour like that and they’re always worn less, for that reason.
Also, if you’re starting a wardrobe, you usually don’t want a jacket that is very noticeable, because everyone will be like ‘oh he’s wearing that jacket again’.
Thanks Simon. You know that’s funny I never thought of a light blue jacket as being showy (especially when it’s in a light shade of blue as with your tweed jacket) but I think I can see where you are coming from, especially as you live in the UK.
I live in the Middle East and so I think you can understand that given the climate here (very warm and all sun for half the year at least) light blue wouldn’t probably appear quite as unique as it would in the UK.
By the way in my view that lovely light blue tweed jacket would look gorgeous with off-white heavy cotton trousers and either a light pink or navy shirt. Alternatively keep the shirt white but change the trousers to a lighter beige (just enough to distinguish it from the shirt) and you’ll have a really lovely combination (but again combining such a jacket with off-white trousers is my favorite), or alternatively very light grey trousers (in flannel wool) would work really wonderful too.
Yes it sounds like this is a good example of the importance of location (as well as local culture). White trousers on their own are a little showy in London, for me at least. Even without the blue jacket!
And here’s a lovely recent example of a light blue jacket, although the checks make it a little more difficult to wear as it places serious limitations on the wearer then being able to wear a shirt underneath with any pattern on it, unless that patter is very subtle.
Checked Wool Blend Jacket – Pauw
Thanks, and yes a check makes it that much more showy too. Fine in Naples or the Middle East, not so much in the UK
Is there anywhere you’d recommend that sells a good collection of RTW blazers or jackets similar to the options you’ve laid out?
Not necessarily with lots of these options, but you can see some of the RTW brands we’d recommend here
Sid Mashburn’s Ghost Blazers in High-Twist and The Armory’s Wool Balloon Model 3 are some jackets I’ve seen advertised as blazers/sports jackets but don’t seem to have a particularly textured wool. What is it about these jackets that presents them as not being orphaned jackets? I like the look of them, and to my eye they seem fine with different colored pants, but I don’t know if I’m missing something.
Often they will be slightly more open weaves if they work well as jackets – in the way mock leno or mesh is often more open than high-twists or materials like Fresco that are better for trousers and suits
Hi Simon, always find myself coming back to these articles! I’m trying to fill the “dark brown jacket” gap in my wardrobe but have struggled to find the right fabric. I already have two Reda hopsacks (mid-brown/taupe link and navy link), which are perfect for Sydney’s climate and hit the formality level well. Ideally I’d like something with a similar level of texture at the same or slightly more casual formality – in a cool-toned dark brown, though most I’ve found lean warm. Subtle patterns (tone-on-tone check, low-contrast houndstooth) might also work. The Art du Lin looks closest in colour/tone to what I’m picturing, but I’m unsure if it would stand alone as an odd jacket even with a casual make-up. Any recommendations for something that fits the bill. Thanks in advance!
Nice to hear!
I wouldn’t say the Art du Lin was right probably, as it’s not the best on its own. I think unfortunately it’s mostly a case of looking through bunches, particularly seasonal ones from the Italian ones
Hi Simon,
Currently I’m building a sports jacket collection and only have a navy hopsack blazer. This covers a good portion of the year but I’m looking for something specifically for warmer summer days now, however I’m not sure on the material or colour. I like the idea of seersucker in navy or the classic light blue and white stripes, or perhaps linen in navy. Ideally I wouldn’t want to get a second navy jacket for the sake of variety though, so I was leaning towards the striped seersucker which to me does look a bit more ‘summery’ to navy. What are your thoughts?
I think striped seersucker is really nice, but quite limiting. You’d only wear it with one or two pairs of trousers.
I’m surprised you find hopsack too heavy for summer – is it quite a heavy one?
It’s fine yes, Drake’s travel blazer, I’d just like another option especially for the warmest of weather we experience in the UK.
I think perhaps try using the Lookbook and filter by summer or spring, and jackets?
Hi Simon, may I ask some advice? I really like how navy blue shirts look, and am always wondering how it at all one can wear a navy blue shirt with a blazer and trousers? Looking fairly casual with it. (I’m an academic so this would be for when I teach or go into university; s I want it to look fairly casual and unfussy) Maybe with dark grey or mid-grey or charcoal trousers, or smart jeans (black?), and a brown or brown green tweed jacket? what do you think?
Related to that question I was thinking of perhaps this jacket, with a mind to wearing with eg navy blue shirts among other things
https://www.40colori.com/collections/blazers/products/brown-green-melange-twill-wool-blazer
or this one –
https://www.40colori.com/collections/blazers/products/brown-herringbone-lambswool-blazer
or this one –
https://www.40colori.com/collections/blazers/products/dark-brown-melange-twill-lambswool-blazer
(I have had good success with 40 colori with one light brown blazer already)
Your advice is much appreciated
No worries Thomas. Navy shirts are difficult to pair with warmer colours – they usually go better with colder ones or neutrals, like grey, cream etc. Navy with a green or brown jacket is tricky and depends on the shade very much. I mostly wear them with other navy, greys, or very dark or muted browns or beige
Thanks, Simon – so maybe a dark brown like this one?
https://www.40colori.com/collections/blazers/products/dark-brown-melange-twill-lambswool-blazer
Yes that looks nice
but less so this one?
https://www.40colori.com/collections/blazers/products/brown-green-melange-twill-wool-blazer
or this one?
https://www.40colori.com/collections/blazers/products/brown-herringbone-lambswool-blazer
again, thank you for your advice
Hard to always tell that well remotely, but yes probably
Recently I bought a jacket made up with Maison Hellard fabric
https://maisonhellard.com/collections/heures-bleues/products/1116
It is an amazing design, but I’m having difficulty figuring out what to wear it with. Could you share how you would style it? Thanks a lot.
It reminds me of an Solito one I used to have. It was great with beige in particular. So trousers in that, perhaps a light blue shirt and brown trousers.
It would also be good with grey trousers, and maybe navy given the blue in there, but not sure
Hello Simon, I would like to have a dark brown jacket made for FW, probably in tweed. It should be versatile (I already have a dark green tweed jacket and one in grey herringbone). Now I’m struggling with the cloth selection. I was thinking of your black and brown collaboration with Fox. What do you think, or do you have another thought?
I think that would be really nice, yes. You could go plainer brown like my WW Chan, but if you want a little interest but still versatile, I’d defintely say the Fox would be good
Simon – great discussion.
For #1 – the classic navy jacket – for a fairly smart, 3- or 4-season jacket that is fully lined, what fabrics would you recommend?
Would a heavier hopsack like Smith’s Botany hopsack work or is that still going to be best in an unlined configuration for summer wear? Or a heavier fresco or finmeresco? Or would you look at a worsted twill or something like that? I’m looking for maximum versatility (and decent durability). Mock Leno feels too casual.
Most of those high twists would be best for summer, and fresco and finmeresco are generally better for suits too.
I’d go for a lightweight wool or light tweed, though of course it depends on where you live. There are some recommendations here
Hi Simon,
Sorry for the length of this (!), but I think there’s quite some nuance to unpack in the below.
I prefer the style of unstructured tailoring as I dress quite casually, however I’m unsure if that style or something more structured would suit my body type better. I am shorter and slimmer than most, and have normal shoulders I would say – perhaps a picture would help?
I ask as I want to start adding some tailoring, mainly odd jackets, to my wardrobe. Obviously much of it is individual preference and, as I would primarily be pairing them with jeans and flannels, I’m leaning towards unstructured jackets in casual tweeds from a lifestyle perspective. However, body shape is also a consideration.
My first thought for something unstructured is Drake’s games blazer, but it does seem very chore coat like rather than tailoring in the traditional sense (perfect for jeans of course!), so I’m not sure whether bespoke is the route to go. Firstly, due to my aforementioned body characteristics and second because I’d probably prefer to pick my own cloth in most instances.
Looking at some of your commissions, I really like the look and construction of your Bryceland’s jacket made with PS cloth which seems to exactly fit the bill of being casual enough to wear with jeans and flannels.
Finally, I would also want to occasionally wear smarter trousers like high twists, so do you think it would be better just to have one or two more structured jackets for those occasions?
I think you’ll learn quite a bit by starting to go through this process, so I would start with something like Brycelands and see how it works with the range of trousers as well as your body type. It all becomes less theoretical then, and you should leave a few weeks or months before trying something else – maybe more structured, maybe not
Hi Simon,
I want to commission a classic navy blazer in the American Ivy style (with dark brass instead of gold buttons).
Three questions:
1) What cloth would you use?
2) Would you choose flapped or patch pockets?
3) My tailor is Ralph Fitzgerald in NYC, formerly of Huntsman. His house style is a single button, notch lapel jacket. Would you go with single button or opt for two? I’m short, so the single button generally works for me, but I’m unsure if it’s the right choice for this style of jacket.
Thanks!
1) The cloth could vary from a plain wool to a cashmere to something summery like hopsack. Is there anything you feel inclined towards?
2) I’d default to flapped, but it’s really a personal style decision, unless you want to wear it especially smartly all the time.
3) Either would be good, but if in doubt I would go for two.
Hi Simon ,
What size are you in the Rubato single breasted and double breasted jackets? They seem to be a little narrow in the chest in their size guide.
I was a pretty standard 40
Meaning 50 on their sizing? They say chest is 53cm
You’d have to talk to them about the measurements John, yes a 50 worked well for me
Hi Simon,
As far as navy jackets, do you recommend them to be darker than a navy crewneck when wearing together? Or the other way round? What is the ideal shade of a navy jacket?
Thanks!
I think generally err on the side of darker with jackets, but if you had the choice then better if the crewneck is darker than the jacket rather than lighter.
Hello Simon, I recently commissioned a bespoke jacket made from the oatmeal tweed fabric you launched, and I’m absolutely delighted with it — what colour shirts or knited polos do you think looks best with this jacket?
Nice. I think white is a great place to start, then I’d try pale denims and blue/white stripes
Mooron leather sports jacket what shirt and trousers and boots or shoes to wear with IT?
Wow. I’m guessing you mean maroon. Not something I’ve had but I’d try dark greys and blacks to start with. Maybe a charcoal knit and black jeans, black boots? Or a denim shirt
Simon,
These are the only odd jackets I own. I need a grey. Could you a suggest a versatile grey fabric for me Many thanks!
Best,
Robert
Absolutely, a grey herringbone! My favourite fabric of all.
Simon,
These 3 Fox Brothers 100% cashmere fabrics caught my attention. Given the odd jackets I already own, which fabric would you choose for versatility?
Best,
Robert
Definitely the grey herringbone!
Have a look around the site for how often I’m wearing that. And it’s so high up in this list now too…
Hi Simon,
What weight range would be good for a 3 season wool navy jacket? For example, how close to summer can I go with a 12.5oz (375g/m) fabric?
Thanks!
It depends on where you live and how hot you run John, but I’d prefer 11oz or under for something that was going into summer (assuming that’s the third season you going for)
Simon, I’ve just picked up a dark taupe double-breasted jacket in a wool–cashmere blend. I really like the colour, but I’m having a bit of trouble figuring out what trousers to pair it with, as neither brown nor grey seems quite right. Any thoughts? I was considering a pair of beige chinos from Anthology.
Beige could be nice, yes Mike. What you probably need is some contrast with the jacket, so I’d suggest charcoal or black, and perhaps a pale shirt such as white, cream, or white stripes.
Beige chinos could be nice if they’re not too similar to the jacket, but again contrast would be helpful – so perhaps a white or cream shirt and black shoes/belt
Hi Simon,
I have a sports coat in a lovely solid teal fabric by Loro Piana (Australis). People tell me teal is my color, but I’m not sure how to combine it with other colors and patterns. The teal is obviously the “star” of the show, so I would think everything else must set it off and not compete for attention.
Do you agree all other pieces of the outfit should be solid, no patterns (except maybe, in a tie?) and any textures should be subtle if used. Shoe are really problematic. I have lots of cognac leather shoes and some in blue suede but am totally at sea here
I have worn it with gray trousers and a black turtleneck and was told it was quite striking and “fashion forward” (which is not really my style). but I live in Las Vegas so can get away with a lot.
Help!
Hey Jon,
Yes, I would think the jacket would be the star and I wouldn’t use strong colour elsewhere. Black might be too high contrast against it as well.
But nothing wrong with subtle pattern. Eg I’d like a striped shirt – pale blue and white maybe – and a grey trouser? Mid-brown shoe perhaps, though hard to say on that
Hi Simon, I’m sending you these pics.
That Shibumi Tie is hopefully coming my way as I write. They amazingly are doing a re-issue.
Moving on – the jacket I am sending a picture of the cloth. Do you think the shirt cloth is too blue…what are the alternatives. I could go for a mor neutral grayer shade in the jacket cloth… even black and white .
Trousers.. what type and colour. I have whipcord in mind?
The shoes …suede brogues or derbies or even loafers?
I’ll send you the cloth shot separately.
Sorry Lindsay, what Shibumi tie and shirt cloth are you referring to?
Here’s the tie. It’s from shibumi firenze
The shirt. I don’t know the make but I may get an appropriate blue one in London from someone like T&A, Budd. In the jacket photo, I assumed the the shirt was a tad too dark and when I’m in London in May , I’ll be looking for a suitable blue shirt to show off the tie at its best.
Possibly C&J for appropriate shoes…I forgot to add.
OK, thanks.
I like the jacket material, but it is a little fancy with the checks. Personally I’d get that but wear it with more a solid tie, or without a tie.
A grey high-twist would make a great trouser.
Shoes could be mid-brown or a lighter brown, ideally loafer or derby
Here’s the cloth photo
Another one
Here’s the combo photo. I don’t think it went through previously but here it is again. I find that shirt a tad too dark. I may be wrong.
I’ll find something in London in May
There’s no photo on this one Lindsay, sorry
Sorry about this Simon…I’ll try again
Lindsay
Aha, yes that’s nice Lindsay. A little fancy with all the elements together, but a nice combination. I’d do a grey high-twist trouser, at least as the safest option to start with, and perhaps a mid to dark brown shoe if the tie is dark
Encouraging!
To round that off, I imagine a smart snap brim Fedora from Locks or Bates Hatters and a double breasted grey or brown/camel fine wool/cashmere overcoat..or a bridge coat
Many thanks
Lindsay McKee
Hi Simon, I’m trying to find a jacket in the same material as your navy jacket from Solito. Do you have suggestions on where to look for RTW? And you write that it’s ’plain wool’, what is exactly that (with regards to that the wool shouldn’t be too smooth)? Cheers.
For RTW, perhaps Anglo-Italian? It’s very similar to a tweed, but not as coarse or hairy – a woollen rather than worsted, with quite a lot of texture. (Sorry, there aren’t terms for every type of wool cloth)
Thanks!
Hi Simon, I’m looking to commission a bespoke, navy, SB jacket for work (investment management in the city of London) with either Whitcomb and Shaftesbury or WW Chan, as I like the style of a drape cut and soft shoulders. I intend to wear the jacket with either flannels or high twist trousers (rather than jeans). Given your rave reviews of the cloth, I am thinking of getting this in the Holland & Sherry mesh – 3024010.
Three questions if I may:
1. Would you recommend W&S or WW Chan over the other for this (first) commission?
2. Any style specifics you’d recommend beyond the above? My inclination was for patch pockets to ensure it doesn’t look like a suit jacket;c. 3.5 inch lapels and a slight belly.
3. Should I consider a heavier fabric so that it can be worn more of the year? Would just making it fully canvassed do the job by making it warmer?
Love the sight and really appreciate the help!
Nice!
1 – Either would be great. Whitcomb would be a little formal and a little sharper still, but not a lot. Also consider whether ease of visiting is an issue
2 – I think I agree, that sounds good. Have it lined I would, in London
3 – The lining and canvas would make a bit of a difference, yes. I would worry too much about that, given you’ll be inside a lot of time and can wear a coat etc over the top in colder months outside
I have more jackets that I really need but I am thinking about a silk jacket in dark forest green from Saman Amel. Do you think that would work in a spring-summer wardrobe? I am thinking of wearing it with grey high-twist trousers and maybe smarter linen trousers. The silk is quite raw/washed and not that shiny. Like a madder tie.
I think that sounds a little unusual but I like the combination, so if you want something a touch unusual for some things and different from what you already have, I’d say go for it
Thanks,
Yeah my other summer-spring jackets are mostly navy or greyish-brown so I was thinking about something more unusual.
Love it Calle – the best thing about having all your regular bases covered!
If I may. I have bought a dark-forest-green jacket from Canali on Vestiaire Collective (new) at an incredible attractive price (EUR 110,–).
Though, I hardly wear it. It is a quite difficult colour for a summer jacket. In something like tweed it might be easier.
When it comes to dark green spring/summer jackets, the attached image is one of my favourite pictures of spring/summer tailoring. Everything looks so easy and relaxed (this is of course also largely due to the cut etc.). I once had a dark forest green wool/silk/linen jacket in a Solbiati fabric that I wore in the same way. But the cut of the jacket did not quite work for me (it was one of my first purchases) so I now replaced it with a “three-way suit” in this https://maisonhellard.com/products/coetquidan linen fabric. It is a very dark olive and I find it a bit easier to wear than dark forest green. Highly recommended!
Nice points Liam. I think it helps with that jacket in the photo too that it’s not that dark a green, or shiny/jeweltone.
I fully agree. The only thing I would add is that the sun and even the surroundings (I think this photo was taken in Florence, where I used to live) make quite a difference to how green jackets look (this is of course the case for all fabrics, but it particularly matters for green jackets, given how hard it seems to be to get the right shade).
The Maison Hellard cloth I linked to above actually looks very similar in the sun although it looks *much* darker on the website (and even when you look at a small sample swatch). It took Nathan a while to convince me that it’s not too dark for me but he turned out to be right. This is why I can highly recommend the Coetquidan fabrics to other readers who would like to go for that look (with the added advantage that it also works well as a slightly more unusual suit for evening occasions because it looks quite dark without the sun shining on it).
PS: In response to what Markus S said, I came to realise that I really like green jackets in spring/summer but find them quite hard to wear in autumn/winter. Hence my own rotation consists of a light olive glen check wool/linen jacket and the aforementioned dark olive linen suit. I sometimes get the craving for a dark olive tweed. But whenever I try a RTW one I don’t really like it on myself.
For my first four jackets, I would always want a navy tweed (autumn/winter), a navy hopsack (spring/summer), a brown tweed (autumn/winter), and a brown wool/silk/linen (spring/summer). And when it comes to adding to these four, it is either another brown tweed for autumn/winter or something green for spring/summer. There is just something about the natural colours of spring that makes me want to wear green, whereas brown always fits well but is most clearly at home in autumn.
Do you also have similar seasonal preferences, Simon? I think the “seasonality” of tailoring is an aspect that necessarily gets a bit lost in lists like this that mostly focus on different colours. My guess is that most people will end up with only 2–3 colours and lots of variation between them in pattern, material, weight etc.
Yes I think your last point is very valid, Liam. People often think they’ll want every colour, but really they are best sticking with two or three out of the five or six we talk about, at least when they’re building out things for different seasons.
In terms of preferences for different seasons, I don’t think I have a big one except the general tendency towards lighter and brighter in the summer. Overall though, I do think brown in its various shades is a lot easier to wear than greens
I also agree with this. I have three brown tweeds (one of them is your black/brown houndstooth) and a mid-brown wool/silk/linen jacket (similar in colour to your Dupioni). Brown is almost certainly the jacket colour I would restrict myself to if I had to choose only one – there are so many different shades and patterns that seem to work with almost anything else that I want to wear.
Green is *a lot* more unusual and harder to wear. But I like it in certain combinations. For example, apart from the linen jacket/suit I talked about above, I like to wear my glen check like the attached image minus the pocket square (this is an older Fox tweed and the photo was taken from their website, mine is a lighter wool/linen from a previous Natalino season).
This goes back to the point that versatility is overrated (at least after a certain point) that I made a while ago in another comment. But if in doubt, I think brown is usually the most versatile (especially in today’s rather informal environment).
Simon, I saw you visited AI the other day and complimented their new deconstructed jacket. Could you elaborate a bit more on what the “deconstructed jacket” is? For example, how casual can it be?
Sure. It has some canvas in the lapels and a small strip in the chest, but otherwise has no padding or structure. The large hopsack is also quite jersey-like and soft.
I wouldn’t say it was super casual being navy and double breasted, and of course I haven’t owned one, but I think I’d wear it with jeans
Hey simon i recently did a jacket with thr anthology and when choosing jacket fabrics i was recommended a black glencheck or houndstooth as something versatile to br won with c
Khaki chinos and denims below. I eventually went with something brown but it got me thinking as this was mot a color I would evwr really considered per se. What are your thoughts?
When you say a black glen check, how do you mean Shem? A black herringbone I assume would just be black on black, but presumably that’s not what you mean with the glen check?
For black jackets like a solid black, see article where I talk about them here
Sorry simon i mean a white or cream background with black patterns over it
In that case, most of the herringbones and glen checks I wear are are black over cream or white, so that’s pretty normal? I don’t think you’d have any problem with it. If you can’t see any images like that of me I can link to some?