The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’.
I bought it two years ago, at the now sadly closed Vintage Showroom in London. They were popular then, and have only become more so since - Drake’s released its version earlier this year.
But something I find the new versions can't achieve is the lightness of the originals. That rip-stop cotton was made for tropical climates, and it’s as light as a linen overshirt, perhaps even more so.
As a result, it became my default outer layer for casual combinations this summer, such as a T-shirt and workwear chinos at the weekend (example here). Or jeans. Or shorts.
It has all the pockets you need - which is often the reason for wearing an extra layer in the summer - but is so light you almost don’t notice you’re wearing it.
It helps that vintage versions have been washed and worn countless times, making them softer and perhaps even lighter too.
Then there’s the normal pleasures of a vintage piece, like the natural fading at the hems and seams, and the little repairs where the jacket has been caught or worn through. You can see one on the back of my jacket in the picture above.
In many ways, the jungle jacket is the summer equivalent of the M-65 field jacket, which has become so popular with menswear fans over the years. It is the same versatile pale-olive colour, and is just as effective at adding a touch of high/low dressing to an otherwise smart outfit.
I’ve shot it with two outfits here, and the one shown at top is a deliberately smart colour combination: navy knitted polo, white jeans, brown-suede loafers. The same colours would work just as well with more formal materials too, such as cream flannels, a blue oxford shirt, and a navy cashmere knit.
The second outfit, meanwhile, shows how nice it is with denim and with colour. It can look work with much stronger colours than that PS Yellow Oxford as well.
Of course, the M-65 is not that warm, being just two layers of cotton. But when you combine it with the fur lining I had made a couple of years ago, it gives you three casual outer layers - jungle jacket, unlined M-65, lined M-65 - that cover most of the year.
The only obvious disadvantage of the jungle jacket here is that you can’t cinch the waist, which I always felt was one reason sartorial dressers particularly took to the M-65.
It meant you could mimic the waisted shape of a tailored jacket, and buy a fairly big size to fit over a jacket’s shoulders without it being too shapeless elsewhere.
But then, the jungle jacket is a summer piece, where the main consideration is coolness rather than shape, and you're less likely to be wearing it over anything else.
There were three different versions of the jungle jacket made by the US, from the early sixties into the seventies. But we’re not vintage collectors here on PS - we don’t care which is rarer, the version with the slanted chest pockets or the straight ones.
We care more about which looks good, which is most useful, and what the fit is like. On that score, it's worth noting that the third iteration was made in a plain cotton poplin rather than the ripstop. You can see the differences on the Broadway & Sons website - they have a ripstop here and a poplin here.
I personally prefer the ripstop (below), because it feels a touch lighter and I like the texture, but it’s not a big difference.
In terms of sizing, my advice would be to avoid the Large, which is so long that even friends that are taller than me (so over 6’1’’) find it too long.
The jacket was designed to cover the seat and then some, with the option of a belt between the two sets of pockets - as a lot of military jackets have been over time. But those proportions look odd today.
Mine is a Medium Regular, which has a perfect length. There is a slight compromise on the sleeve, which would ideally be an inch longer, but it’s a small point on vintage, which is often so hard to size right. Plus I often push the sleeves up in warm weather.
Also, note that the shirt from the OG-107 US fatigues is sometimes referred to as a jungle jacket. This is a different style, having just two pockets on the chest and mostly worn tucked into the matching trousers. It’s still nice, but more of an overshirt.
Below, it is worn on the soldiers on the left and right, while General Westmoreland in the middle wears the four-pocketed jungle jacket.
The shirt varieties were also those most associated with protests against the Vietnam War, and John Lennon in particular (second image below). This probably gives them the most countercultural feel, but still, the jungle jacket and the field jacket still have a bit of that.
One of the few annoying aspects of the jungle jacket is that the hip pockets are extravagantly bellowed, in order to fit in as much as possible (see below). This can make the jacket a little ungainly if those are used and left unbuttoned.
In fact, I find this is one of the main issues of modern reproductions, which often keep that sizing of the pockets, but in a new and heavier material that means they look especially bulky.
I tend to keep my hip pockets partly buttoned as a result. But that still means they're usable - in fact, I was wearing it so much over the summer that I developed a habit of using each pocket for a particular thing.
My phone went in the top-left pocket, with one button closed so it wouldn’t slip out when I bent over; wallet went in the top right, with no need to button at all as it is so light; my face mask went in the bottom left, with one button closed for easier access; and keys were in the bottom right, with both buttons fastened to avoid any chance of them slipping out and hold the weight better.
I’m sure that kind of organisation will please the geeks/obsessives out there. I’m rarely that systematic, but I did notice it was the one time I never forgot the leave the house without something!
The volume of jungle jackets originally made means they’re not hard to find - it’s often particular sizes that can be tricky, or if you want just one of the iterations.
They’re also not expensive. I saw a few when I was at Hang-Up Vintage recently, all priced at £95, though the website only shows a deadstock poplin one for £155. The ones at Broadway & Sons noted earlier are €199 and €149.
There are camouflage versions too, but I don’t like camo as much. It’s very subjective, but camo for me is more obviously military, without the countercultural associations of the plain OG. It feels more towards glorifying warfare.
In fact, that can be an issue with names and badges on a lot of vintage military clothing. But that’s probably a debate for another day.
Clothes shown:
- Vintage jungle jacket from the Vintage Showroom, Medium Regular
- Colhay’s navy tennis polo, size 40
- White bespoke jeans, Levi’s
- Brown-suede Belgravia loafers, Edward Green
- Frank Clegg large working tote, in chestnut
- Yellow PS Oxford shirt, size Medium
- Vintage 501 Levi’s
- Cartier Chronoflex Tank watch, with patina alligator strap
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
I do’nt possess a field jacket Simon but find my olive Drakes overshirt in linen fits this niche.The style mimics an M65 to some extent given it’s military associations.It looks nice with chinos and jeans and if the weather is cooler I pair it with a cotton sweater and grey flannels.
I have the same one (the washed version) and I agree. It’s a very versatile garment during summer.
Good Morning Simon, perfect timing as I just ordered a Jungle Jacket from Japanese brand orSlow (Used, from Marrkt). After reading your article I hope it will have this vintage feel. Do you have any thoughts on orSlow? I know there „107 Ivy Fit“ denims have been quite popular even outside of the workwear circle. Also I bought a M-65 earlier but despite being vintage (From the 80s) it’s still in a too good condition (The pure irony when you buy clothes, sometimes second-hand, online where you always aim for the best condition). Any tips on how to get that vintage, soft feeling more quickly? Washing them a lot? Leave them in the sun? Thank you!
I like OrSlow – I don’t have anything, but I’ve admired things on others, including the jeans which Jamie wears well.
Washing and leaving in the sun will both help, but it’s unlikely to achieve that real vintage look without just lots of wear over a few years. I’d avoid anything too extreme too (eg some use lemon or similar things to help fading) as it’s easy to ruin the piece if not done correctly.
Thank you Simon!
“One of my most useful pieces of the last few months”, I absolutely undersign this statement. I have the replica of the 1st pattern made by The Real McCoy’s. Very utilitarian and functional piece, it goes with me everywhere since late spring until now. I wear it even with tailored trousers and linen dress shirts. What I find interesting is that even though the cotton poplin is very light it can be also really protective when the evenings becomes quite windy.
I had a jungle jacket, or did until my son discovered it and it’s now missing -presumed lost. A trick ,from my old days in the military, was to Velcro inside the body of the pocket to ensure it stays flat.
I can see the obvious utlity of military jackets and if something works why not wear it,and of course the military connections with classic clothing are well known. However for me the ‘counter culture’ connotations are a negative. They wouldn’t have been 20 or 30 years ago, but to me personally nowadays they seem much more symbolic of a packaged faux counter cultural identity pushed by mass marketing brands. Contrarily I do like and wear safari jackets and their ilk, which are about as far from ‘counter culture’ as you can get, despite a similar military/hunting context.
Interesting, thanks Darryl. Perhaps it’s one of the virtues of the social-media echo chamber that I hadn’t seen that so much!
That’s an interesting point from Darryl and I think that’s to be considered wearing anything which has strong connections with a specific culture. For me, 70s era US military clothing will always be associated with the drop out culture. But then, Crombies and Doc Martins have a similar cultural link.
Are we being a little precious with this association? Is this link so powerful in our collective psyche we regard it untouchable to marketing
Inevitably I think it varies a lot these days between countries, ages and cultures.
Culture is a lot less uniform than it used to be in some ways – people living very close to each other consume very different media – and so associations vary a lot.
I absolutely agree with Darryl. I can wear items that have been inspired in their functionality by military clothing but I would not wear any vintage military items. I just cannot wear something that I know was designed to be used in the context of war. Even worse, I could not wear something that has got a USA, Germany, UK, Japan, etc. name/flag on it as it would be almost like taking sides on a complex topic. They are all beautiful jacket but not for me. I much prefer what Christopher Raeburn used/continues to do, which is using these vintage fabrics and garments to create something new.
I tend to agree with Daryl. I like military-inspired clothing, or clothing adapted from military gear, but probably wouldn’t wear an actual vintage item, or a perfect reproduction. They can feel a bit incongruous in a civilian setting. Ideally, I like the military connection toned down a bit. I feel the same way about vintage or repro leather bomber jackets, or motorcycle jackets; I prefer them in suede because they’re one step removed from the original purpose. Though the jungle jacket is something I’ve never noticed in old military pictures so I only associate it with modern menswear! That being said there is more than one way to skin this cat, the cat being a need for casual but smart light-weight outerwear for the summer that provides pocket space. A safari jacket (don’t much like these), overshirt with pockets, shirt jacket, teba jacket, etc.
What a superb example of the M-65! Are you familiar the British Army’s Kayak Parka? The Japanese company, OrSlow worked with Beams (via their sub-brand, Fennica) to reproduce them last year. I bought one this season and have to say it is great. It may not be to your taste but I have found it to be a solid purchase.
Thanks David. Just to be clear though, what I’ve pictured here is not an M-65?
On the kayak parka, yes I’d seen that. It looks nicely done, though much more casual than an M-65 or a jungle jacket I think – not quite so good with smarter clothes like those two
Great piece. I have two US Army M-65 field jackets with the rounded collar, as well as two earlier versions of the US Army field jacket, the M-53s from the Korean War period with the regular collar. These are all vintage and all originals. They don’t have the slanted pockets and pocket flaps seen in the rip-stop or poplin versions shown in this article — all the pockets are horizontal. I don’t care as much for the slanted pockets, just personal preference. My versions have lining material inside that makes it more suitable for fall and winter weather, but not for summer wear.
I do have US Army cotton drill shirts (four buttons in front and two flap pockets) that serve for the summer as overshirts. I also have non-Army safari-style jackets in light poplin and overshirts made of cotton drill and rip-stop fabric, in khaki and olive green. These latter are great for summer wear over a light T shirt. These jackets and shirts are perfect with blue jeans and khakis.
Thanks Peter.
Perhaps I haven’t been clear enough though – this is not an M-65. It’s a jungle jacket.
In the headline and the article I’m saying that this is a summer version of the M-65, which people don’t talk about as much. So if you like that style, you’ll like this
Thanks. I did understand it was the summer version, but since you mentioned the M-65 label, I thought I would talk a bit about the regular version, that’s all. Sorry if it was a bit off-topic
Aha. No worries, just wanted to make I had been clear
Slightly off-topic Simon, but:
I’m currently looking for a water resistant coat to invest in for the upcoming months.
Will there be a restock of existing collabs (with Private White VC) or the launch of a new one?
There will be a restock of all of them, yes.
It’s worth being on the Support waiting list for some, Felix. Lucas there sent out an update on all upcoming collaborations to everyone on the lists.
Thanks for the heads-up Simon, didn’t even know about the waiting list.
Just sent a mail to support@permanentstyle.com
Great.
Considering the difficulty in getting hold of the right spec of these jackets …. time for a PS commission ?
Nice idea Robin, though I guess the thing I like about this so much is the vintage feel, which would be hard to replicate in something new
Simon, since you mentioned sleeve length: Does one want the sleeves of outerwear to cover the cuffs of shirts or knitwear worn below?
Thanks
Manuel
Well, it’s the same as a tailored overcoat. In theory it should cover the layer underneath, as it’s there to protect it. But you also might want to show it a little. So I think a balance between the two.
Personally I err towards covering, but it’s not a problem if a bit is showing, particularly on lighter outerwear like this
For that reason I quite like the jackets like this with cuffs that you can fold back a bit.
Yes, good point
Simon,
I’m so glad you posted this! I have this jacket, but in a tan, and I always struggled to wear it, simply because I had no idea what it was. I found it at a thrift store for $4, and it has a circle imprint on the left breast pocket and sleeve (probably wear the original owner sewed his patches). I’m excited to start wearing it more often!
Nice. Yes, those imprints will be badges or name tags that have been removed
Funnily enough having recently found a lovely vintage M65, I wanted something similar for the summer and came across the jungle jacket. Given how tatty and expensive some originals looked, by contrast to the great value to be had from the vintage M65s (which makes those Real McCoy replicas look incredibly overpriced), I went for a Rothko replica from the 90s. Still available NOS, it’s very good value, in ripstop cotton and I understand is identical to the originals except for the lack of drainage holes in the pockets. Interestingly, it was only after buying it that I realised I had a very similar jacket from Private White VC in their very light airy material in an olive green, albeit with straight breast pockets, that I have worn a lot in the summer for years.
I bought one of those Anderson & Sheppard safari jackets you reviewed, Simon, some time ago. It was a bargain – heavily marked down in The Rake sale. It’s a beautifully made piece, but I have never had a jacket with so many pockets – several of them concealed. It’s a nightmare trying to find anything once I’ve put it inside: I know it’s there, I know, but to have to check five pockets before you get to your car keys…,?!
Ha! Yeah I guess that’s the downside. Maybe just don’t use one of them – or if you can’t remember then seal one of them up!
Hi Simon. What can you tell us about the metal bracelet you’re wearing?
Hey Howie,
It’s featured so often it here I don’t really include it in lists anymore.
It’s a vintage silver cuff with a turquoise stone, made in the southwest US and in that style. I bought it from an antiques dealer in Hong Kong, but there are lots of modern versions around, eg from Red Rabbit.
S
Interesting discussion above re associations with military. I used to think the same about wearing camo. But then I considered trench coats, pea coats, fatigues, chinos, chukkas, aviators, bomber jackets, black tie and even modern suits, literally everything comes from a military background. So might as well… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I really love the faded green and the cut of the jacket. Now if only one could get a version without all those unsightly, billowy pockets… 🙂
Building on the cultural comments, some thoughts.
I know everyone wears camo, but it never sits quite right with me to see civvies wearing military clothing, and yes i know mods etc. But still there are some things you have to have served for.
Then there is what you have had said about hats and how you prefer to avoid the traditional panama because it evokes certain connotations, and like instead darker colours. Interesting how that applies to some items of clothing and not others – workwear, military?
On a more practical note, there are some places where it is unwise to wear uniform.
No answers just thoughts
Thanks Fred. I know what you mean on the hats, I guess the only difference is that panamas have not been re-used in so many different ways over the years, or like military clothing after WW2 and Vietnam, gone through such a use change by being sold to a different audience – in that case, with military surplus stores
Just some thoughts, but I find the point on having to serve for stuff being a little dramatic. It’s no red beret. In this case, it’s decommissioned, (very) old stock that will find itself in surplus stores of the army’s own volition. It would look literally like any other piece of clothing, especially if it’s void of insignia. That being said, I don’t feel quite so comfortable wearing woodland-like camos in public. They’re just too recognisable.
Apologies if I might not understand where you’re going with it. I’m from a country with National Service, so certain issued gear isn’t exactly uncommonly seen.
Hi Regan,
I hear you but I still find it it odd, and sure it’s just personal.
I do find something odd in what is and isnt cultural appropriation. Why is it inappropriate to wear clothes associated with a certain identity but it’s ok to do it from the military or french work wear?
Then people tend to shy away from wearing clothes associated with a certain image of Toffs but it’s cool to be associated with other identities?
When someone wears a piece of clothing they are, I suppose, at least in part, trying to associate themselves with what that clothing represents ‘a soldier’ ‘a worker’. It is not simply a jacket.
And yes I was in the forces and seeing people who clearly never were, and aren’t likely to be going hunting (camo big in Europe for that), trying to associate with that image, well it’s just not my thing.
But I guess my take is to tone it all down, or better still transform it. I much prefer when Simon takes a panama hat and gets it in sisal, or a safari shirt and has it in lilac.
That said still trying to work it out in my head, and there are surely more important things to be thinking about!
There can be only one! Yours must be the only fur lined military jacket in existence. At first I laughed, but now it has me thinking…
Nice to know I could change a mind Harry! Though you do get some like that among Italian makers of field jackets actually
I have a linen-cotton ripstop Safari jacket from, mind you, Abercrombie & F., which I’ve been using a lot in early/late summer (in the peak even the dead of night is too hot). Like you, I find the pockets are the main reason for carrying it around, sometimes even if I’m not wearing it. No slanted pocket, but has the drawstring.
Started out very harsh on the skin, but a few washes softened it a lot. For the price I paid it has been very useful – I even brought it to a mountain hike once as the ripstop construction makes it very tough.
Great article Simon. The “jungle jacket” is a very versatile piece. Sizing is weird, as it’ is technically a blouse, originally designed to be worn untucked and buttoned over a tshirt. I was in the market about two years ago, I ended finding two, a medium reg, and large reg, thinking I would flip one, but ended up keeping both. For me, the medium works best over just a tshirt, and the large for fits like yours with the OCBD. I can even see it as a lite rain coat over a sport coat (Boyer style)
Another note on sizing, there are two sizes on each shirt; chest size (S, M, L, etc) and length, short, regular, and long. For whatever reason, large reg is a hard size to find, large long is much easier to find. Medium regular seems to be in relatively good supply
M65 means Military issued in 1965, this is not exactly like the ones that I wore.
Hi Donald,
Are you aware that, as mentioned in the article, I am not talking about an M65 here, but a ‘jungle jacket’? Different articles
I’m not sure whether I am missing the point but I have recently been sporting one of Private White’s olive safari jackets, which seems to be along the same lines, but a little smarter, without the saggy pockets or the general air of being about to desert from the Vietnam war. Aside from a tiny hint of Roger Moore, I can’t see the disadvantage. Am I on the wrong track?
Well, I’ve spelled out the appeal in here Shoddy, in terms of material, vintage aspects, and style. But perhaps those aren’t for you
Yes. I think it probably boils down to three things for me: 1) the countercultural associations seem outmoded; 2) support your own counterculture; 3) I think it just looks scruffy.
Fair enough, good to have it spelt out
Actually I’ve thought about it again and what I suppose I’m getting at is that for me this jacket falls into the category of ironic militaria (like punks wearing retreat-from-Moscow greatcoats) as opposed to “I’m wearing this kit because I think it looks great” militaria (Steve McQueen chinos and flying jackets). But I can see (although not condone) other people seeing it as falling into the latter category.
Japanese catalogues, especially those specializing in military fashion, carry this excellent jacket, have done for years. Nigel Cabourn always has been inspired by this wonderful jacket, alas at a price.
Ive worn mine out,(found in NYC over 25 years ago)- always seeking the perfect replacement! Surplus shops sell nasty versions in poly/cotton mix!
While I’m certainly sensitive to the possible negative associations attaching to a garment closely identified with a particular military history, as others have pointed out, the military influence throughout the range of menswear is difficult to avoid. As an amateur historian I think it’s easy enough to avoid displaying that influence in an offensive manner by staying away from decorations linked to specific historical contexts. Absent rank insignia, combat honors or peace symbols, a jungle jacket such as yours is a handsome, utilitarian design not unlike a Swiss Army knife, which conjures no disturbing martial associations (rather like its place of origin). As Dr. Freud might have said, sometimes a jacket is just a jacket.
Re American field jackets in particular, I wonder if you’ve ever seen an example of the M-65’s progenitor, the M-43 of the WW2 era. I actually prefer it over the technically improved M-65 precisely because of what it lacks: a zipper, a built-in hood, snap closures and those lower bellows pockets. It does have a bi-swing back, a detachable throat latch and four flat pockets with pointed flaps but with its civilian-style collar it more closely resembles a safari jacket. Most modern reproductions are sewn in a medium-weight cotton sateen that’s just a bit heavier than ripstop and therefore a nearly ideal weight for transitional periods between seasons. They’re once again available from several different manufacturers at very sensible prices and definitely worth a look for a man who wants a touch of military dash without appearing to be on parade. The wearer can be reassured by Field Marshal Montgomery’s assessment of it as better suited to golf than combat.
I hadn’t heard that last quote Ira, it’s great.
I do like the M-43, yes. If someone wants a jacket that is a touch smarter, it does very well. Personally, I wear the M-65 as a contrast to smarter clothing, and so like some of the other elements, but I think it depends what you want it for.
Interesting piece and a nice write-up!
Did you ever write something similar on the safari jacket, Simon? It’s a similar design and usefulness, but with the added benefit of the waist and an ability to dress it up or down as desired. Whereas the jungle jacket is obviously casual. Also, the cultural connotations abound with the safari too.
I have a question on terminology that you used: can you please explain what is deadstock, new old stock, and similar terms using ‘stock’. Thanks!
I’ve covered safari jackets a little Stephan, yes. See here on one from The Armoury, and here on a Budd piece.
However, I’ve found over time that these all feel a little fussy to me. Jackets with lots of pockets like this feel better in a casual piece to me. I prefer simpler pieces like overshirts in smart pieces usually.
If the bellowing pockets are bothering, then the french F-2 jacket is pretty nice! It has a bit more sophisticated look, with vertical zip pockets and lapels instead of a shirt collar. And the best iterations cover the seat and have flap pockets.
Interesting, I haven’t seen that. Thanks
Hello Simon,
I’m fairly new to the page and find this topic particularly interesting.
Given that nearly all menswear finds its roots in the world of military/sporting clothing, I took on a sewing project. Never having sewn a stitch in my life, I bought 4 army surplus duffle bags, drafted a pattern based on a favourite sports coat and got to it.
To be honest, it was much more difficult to sew than I expected – duffle bags seem to be made of iron. But the end results turned out quite well. Its a distinctive jacket. People notice it, but it doesn’t reek of being a hand-made first attempt. Also, the roughness of the material makes the eye fairly forgiving of the tailoring errors.
And when it comes to style, this fits mine perfectly.
Wow. Very impressive Steve.
The style isn’t my cup of tea, but hats off to anyone that can make something like that from scratch
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this article. Thoughts on the sleeve width on yours, particularly when wearing over a single layer? I know they are desired for a certain fit, but the sleeves on mine seem very wide, and I am considering taking them in slightly.
I don’t mind them to be honest, it seems in keeping with the overall shape. Nothing wrong with taking them in though – just err on the side of caution
Thank you! I will keep that in mind.
Hi Simon,
I’ve been thinking at putting toggle an outfit but need your help, I am not sure if it works.
A pair of ecru jeans with a chambray western shirt worn with a tropical jacket or a M65 with Alden LHS cordovan loafers and a Silver ostrich belt in dark brown suede.
Thank you!
That sounds fine Michael, though maybe a few too many things going on. I’d leave off the belt to start with, and see how you feel about it
Great post – thanks! Do you now the back length of your jacket? We are similar height. I have a S long. At 83 cm, it feels too long. Do you think it is worth while to move the bottom pockets and shorten it to a M reg length (which I guess is around 76-77)? Alternatively remove the bottom pockets and shorten it to 76-77 cm?
Hey. Sure – I measure mine at 78cm, which I think is good on a casual jacket like this. I can see how yours might feel long if you’re a similar height to me.
I don’t know if moving the pockets would leave marks? It seems likely if it’s a vintage piece
Hi Simon, great article which inspired me to get one for myself. Found a 1969 ripstop version on ebay. Really happy with it. Very much looking forward to some spring weather to try it out and about. Just wanted to say on sizing, I was tempted to go for a large but am glad I followed your advice and went with the medium regular, which fits me really well as an overshirt (I’m 5’11” 95kg).
Are there any other key pieces of military clothing you have or would recomend? I’ve seen your pieces on the M-65 (which I have from my student days) and the parka.
Nice, sounds good David.
A pair of green fatigues can be nice as a casual trouser
Hi Simon,
I noticed that on Clutch Cafe website there is a picture with you wearing the tropical M65 from Buzz Ricksons. Do you remember what size did you tried and how it compares with the vintage one since you mentioned that the L size of the vintage is quite long.
Would you consider buying it ?
Thank you!
Hi Michael,
I’m afraid I don’t, sorry. It was just thrown on for a shoot with the jeans, I don’t remember the details
Hi simon can you describe how rip stop may feel in the hand as compared to cotton poplin? Im deciding which to purpose online
It’s hard to say Shem, because rip stop doesn’t mean a particular feel necessarily, just that it has that criss-cross weave through it.
It’s likely the ripstop will be more robust, and the poplin finer, but you can’t really say for sure. Poplin too depends hugely on how fine the yarn is
Hi Simon, long time reader, first time poster. I just found a perfect vintage field jacket – however, it’s wrinkled as hell and has quite a musty smell. Clearly it was stored in a wrinkled ball for quite a while.
Any thoughts on how to wash these? I’ve never had anything in ripstop cotton before and I’m not sure whether it deals with a washing machine and steam iron well.
Thanks, appreciate the response!
I’ve never actually washed mine, but I’m pretty sure it would be fine in a washing machine. It will certainly have been beaten up and washed many times like that over the years. If you want to be safe though, maybe ask the shop you bought it from
Hi Simon, would you mind sharing your measurements as I’m considering purchasing the same jacket and it will help me guess the fit.
Many thanks!
Hi Mike,
Sure – I’m six foot tall, with a 39 inch chest and 33 inch waist.
I’ve had Orslow’s unlined cotton canvas jungle jacket for a couple years. I like it and have found it very versatile well past summertime, with a chunky sweater underneath. However, I keep thinking that it feels a bit large in the body. While I realize some of that bulk may have been by design, to go over lots of potentially bulky layers, I’ve wondered if the body could be taken in a bit, rather than my having to find a new jacket in a smaller size. Do you think a good alterations tailor could take in a jacket in this style or would you advise against it?
They could, yes, just go cautiously so you don’t change the silhouette too much (it’s not meant to have a fitted shape) and be aware that you might lose some fading on the seams
I wonder about the quality of the M65s made by Real McCoys and field jackets made by Private White. Are they at the same quality level?
I haven’t worn either Carl, so it’s hard to say, but I’d imagine the biggest difference will be that the McCoys will go to great expense to recreate something specific, and the McCoys will simply be designed to be a lot harder wearing – more workwear, tougher, where the Private White is not
Hi Simon,
I’m going to Uganda for a two week trip in June with temperatures ranging from 20 – 30 degrees Celsius. There will be little chance to wash clothes (likely once at the halfway point) and we’re packing light. After much thought, I’ve narrowed my clothing choice down to 7 lightweight t shirts/underwear/pairs of socks, a Real Mccoy’s jungle jacket for sun protection and snuff desert boots by Anglo Italian.
My question is: what trouser choice would you pick to go with them? It needs to be lightweight yet able to deal with dust etc. I’m thinking Khaki in colour (tsetse flies are attracted to dark/very bright colours) and was wondering about the Castalantic El Jadida chinos. They’re 10.3 oz cotton and I know you’ve got a pair in black. I’d rather have something mid-rise but don’t know what other alternatives there are. Perhaps they’d be a tad too formal. What do you think?
Many thanks,
James
Sounds nice James. I don’t know if there would be any associations with wearing a military jacket in Uganda? Otherwise all good, and on chinos I don’t think the Casatlantic ones would be too formal, no
Very nice piece. Before ordering one myself I did some research and I think the rip stop version (which I bought too) is actually said to be the third iteration (starting to be made in late 1966, first with poplin like the first two versions and then with „more durable“ rip stop from 1968 onwards). The first two versions had epaulettes for example. Have you had different information? It is a bit confusing because the 3rd iteration reads „Class 1“ on the tag.
No, although why do you need that level of detail? Presumably you can tell which you’re buying from any images online, particularly if some have epaulettes?
I just wanted to get the rip stop, and since you stated: 3rd pattern= non rip stop, I wanted to be sure not to run into a fake etc.
Ah, I see, sorry that makes complete sense. Unfortunately I’m no expert on the history and models, I would be going off visual cues as to what it looks like
The older I get the more I appreciate the utility of pockets on jackets – and with spring finally here, this article inspired me to search for a lightweight vintage surplus unit – the outfits you’ve shown above are pretty much how I’d like to incorporate such a piece. However, at almost 6″2′, I find I usually need a “long” for sleeve length – I didn’t want to risk getting a “regular” and having 1+ inch of shirt sleeve peeking out past the cuff, which would limit what I would wear it with.
Between this size requirement and the weakness of the Canadian dollar, I discovered that most of the vintage US jungle jackets in the size I wanted were a bit more than what I was willing to spend – however, I think I’ve found an alternative that may interest other readers: the Canadian OG107 lightweight combat/shirt coat (Mark II).
It’s a similar configuration, though only available in poplin as far as I can tell (I can hold it up to the light and see that the weave is fairly loose and breathable). Style-wise, the chest pockets are smaller and more rectangular, as they were sized to carry a 20-round magazine each, and there are also nylon dividers in the hip pockets – which have drainage holes – to hold two further magazines each close to the body. All of the pockets fasten with a single button, and are sized perfectly to hold phones, sunglasses, a compact camera, wallets, keys, etc. With Canada having not been involved in the Viet Nam war, this variant may also have fewer political associations.
The Mark II features a draw string waist and adds Velcro to the single interior chest pocket. And perhaps the best part – I paid $20 CAD for a soft, well-worn vintage medium-long.
I’ve recently “rediscovered” Permanent Style in the last few months and have greatly enjoyed reading through the archives for inspiration and insights as I refine & develop my wardrobe in this post(?) pandemic world. Seeing your own journey from sharp city suits to more casual, unstructured pieces has been enormously helpful in this regard.
Really interesting, thanks Craig
Have you tried rolling the sleeves all the way up (biceps height)? With my version that is not possible because of the narrow cuff. The only solution probably is to have a tailor cut open the sleeves a bit. I have no idea how General Westmoreland etc did it.
There are short sleeved versions as well?
Yes I know. I don’t like the style and it is of course less versatile.
Indeed. I just thought that might be what you were seeing in the old images
Sorry, I checked again and the rolling up is possible, I just have to do it before putting on the jacket.
Ah, ok
Hi Simon,
Looking to purchase a Jungle Jacket and noticed Informale had a nice looking one:
https://informale.com.au/collections/outerwear/products/j002-jungle-jacket-green
I really like the horn buttons and the stitching on the garment.
Would you day the classic vintage version is more versatile?
I’d say they’re both pretty versatile, with the Informale one just being a little smarter, certainly initially given the lack of fading. If it was for really casual use, I’d stick with vintage
Dear Simon (and readers), do you have any idea where I can best buy this in NYC?
A vintage one? There are few good vintage places, start with 10ft Single in Brooklyn
Hi Simon
Would you consider Anglo Italian’s cotton field shirt (in olive) to be a good example of the jungle jacket, or too formal for how you’d envisage wearing it?
A bit too smart probably I’d say
Thanks as always, Simon. Given AT have styled it with a fairly casual outfit on the product page on their website (light wash jeans, navy crewneck), I wondered what informed your view here (eg fabric / cut / colour / detailing). Not necessarily disagreeing with you, just interested to hear why you disagree with AT’s intention that the jacket is designed to be paired with anything “from denim to t-shirts or pleated trousers and button downs”.
We’re talking about degrees of casualness basically. The AI shirt is casual, certainly more than tailoring, but not as casual as military clothing and workwear – pieces really designed for work and labour. A military piece like a jungle jacket is also going to look more casual than that. Hope that makes sense
I can recommend the French m47 jackets, they can be had, dead stock, for £85-£95 on ebay. High quality, felled seems and heavy duty cotton. Companies sell modern remakes for £800 that are identical . I wear mine for travelling purposes and it holds up well being thrown in a rucksack and abused
https://clutch-cafe.com/products/full-count-gabardine-jacket-pink?variant=40903884865651&mc_cid=bcc027ae11&mc_eid=1e835f3019
FullCount has released a new Spring/Summer jacket in a nice lightly dusted pink. Seeing the jacket you got in Japan really inspired me to search for something similar. Do you think this would be a good alternative?
I don’t know I’m afraid D, I haven’t tried it
Can you share a bit about the maker and origin of the lovely sterling and turquoise cuff featured in the fourth photo from the top?
Hi Peter,
Sure, it’s a vintage piece from the Hong Kong outfit AntiQlockwise. They’re not hard to find though, vintage pieces like this, if you find anyone that deals in silver jewellery from that area (southwestern US, navajo influence etc). See for example the shop Harpo in Paris, which is probably the best in Europe