This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped.
It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using second-hand rabbit fur.
The fact it was second hand, of course, is relevant to the discussions around fur of animal welfare, and sustainability. I would urge anyone that would like to discuss those points, to read our discussions of fur here.
In fact, it’s worth reading that post and leaving comments there rather than on this article. Both to avoid repetition, and with the (always worthwhile, but equally challenging) aim of creating a useful, substantive discussion online.
The practical point to emphasise about fur, I think, is that it is both impressively luxurious and warm.
The feel of rabbit or mink is the softest thing you’ll feel in any area of clothing. More than any cashmere or vicuna, woven or knitted.
Equally impressive is quite how warm it is. It feels like having a mini-radiator inside your coat.
The fur lining turns this pretty cold field jacket (cotton is crap in both the cold and the wet) into something practical in winter.
Of course, a longer coat would be better (your top half is perhaps disproportionately warm), the sleeves are not lined, and the jacket is not waterproof. A wool or water-resistant outer layer would be better.
But any coat requires compromises if you want it to be adaptable across seasons.
The lining buttons into the field jacket, and can then be removed in warmer months.
Like most linings, it functions best when the buttons are on the jacket, and the loops on the liner.
This means you always have extra buttons inside the jacket, which could be annoying - but I didn’t find I noticed them when I wore it without the lining, in the Spring and Autumn.
The work of Yves Salomon was very good - a large number of very precisely placed buttons, and elastic loops that are the perfect size.
We also deliberately set the fur back from the front edge (shown below) so the fur is rarely seen - this is about functionality, not about showing off, as fur often can be.
Showing this field jacket with casual clothes is also useful, as it’s a nice appendix to the recent Weekend Wardrobe article.
The utility jacket shown in that piece could equally have been a field jacket like this one, and would have been more useful in the Autumn/Winter.
The jeans and shirt here are also quite similar: my heavy 18oz denim from Blackhorse Lane instead of the Levi’s in that article; and my striped PS Oxford shirt rather than the plain-blue one.
The cardigan is from Drake’s - in charcoal lambswool. (I've changed the buttons myself, from a light to a dark horn.)
I know there are many more exciting colours of cardigan out there, but I do find greys to be incredibly useful and subtle.
The ones I wear most are mid-grey and this charcoal. You would think navy would be worn a lot too, but this coarseness of wool is usually worn with jeans rather than flannels, and so suits grey rather than navy.
I also tend to wear more dark-indigo jeans, which might be too close in colour to a navy cardigan.
Yves Salomon is a French fur manufacturer, which also recently launched its own designer brand. They have a shop on Conduit Street in London.
The shop was deliberately bought for its existing fur workshop downstairs, and this is where bespoke pieces can be made, such as this lining - using either new fur or reworking old pieces that customers bring in.
They also do linings for coats, or pieces to go on top of collars, if that’s your style. I know Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have used them a few times to make such things for customers.
This lining cost £950, but prices vary considerably depending on the fur, the size of the piece, and the work required to affix it.
You can read more about Yves Salomon here:
“Yves Salomon: Re-using, remodelling fur”
And if you have any views on fur itself, they’re very welcome. Please contribute to this post:
“Fur clothing: Ethics and sustainability”
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Supposing warmth were a paramount consideration, which would be preferred in an overcoat: the heaviest weight cashmere/alpaca/vicuña that can be found (say 33 oz) our a relatively lighter weight wool (maybe 18-20 oz) with a fur lining?
A lighter wool with a fur lining. But it would be more expensive, perhaps more showy when the fur were ever seen, and some would obviously object to it generally. It also wouldn’t necessarily tailor as nicely
Hi Simon, another interesting article. Having read both this article and your previous piece on Yves Salomon, I don’t suppose you have mentioned anything on where does Yves sources their first-hand fur for bespoke commissions. Any insights on that? If yes, what’s your opinion on them? Cheers.
I’m afraid not, no, except that they are sourcing from only the best quality and the best regulated farms. As you can probably imagine, the top brands are as careful as they can be on that, as they want to avoid any risk of bad publicity
Hi Simon, fantastic idea with adding the longing to the M65. I’m curious to what size M65 jacket you went for?
Thoughts on an astrakhan collar on a formal overcoat? Too much in this age?
I don’t know enough about how astrakhan is produced – it would help if it was a case of re-use.
From a style point of view I don’t think it’s too much – it’s not that showy as fur goes
Brilliant idea, although I cant help the thought that nicking granny’s fur stole along with my HB twill shirt would accomplish the same look : )
Simon, I agree with your views on fur, but I would still be very reluctant to wear it. The practical reality is that fur is toxic in many quarters and that it could expose the wearer to irrational acts of violence.
I could see how a full length mink coat might raise a few eyebrows these days but physical violence sounds a bit unlikely. Besides, look around any major city that gets cold in the winter and you’ll see plenty of people wearing fur trimmed parkas. Is a fur lined coat so different?
Hi Simon, can you go into more detail on why it’s better to have buttons on the jacket and loops on the liner? I have an M-51 fishtail parka with the opposite configuration and didn’t notice any issues.
I can’t remember exactly, actually. I think it’s because buttons can be hard to attach effectively to the lining material, but easier on the main jacket/coat given it will be something woven?
Simon – what are your thoughts on using snap or even zippers for attaching the lining?
The fur would be too delicate for that – you would need to attach the fur to something else, like a cotton backing
Wouldn’t an overcoat be more appropriate to line rather than your field jacket Simon? The field jacket seems quite casual and kind of clashes with the luxury of the fur.
How much space should the inside your jacket/overcoat have to get it properly lined? Would you rather arrange a lining for a bespoke overcoat (made to have extra room) or an existing waterproof olive technical jacket (sort of like this)?
I can see what you mean about the luxe of the fur and the workwear worn-in field jacket, but I quite like the contrast. Also there is some precedent – military pieces often came with pretty fluffy liners, though obviously not in fur.
On the space inside an overcoat, I’d leave that up to the tailor, and only probably do it with him if he has experience of doing it before.
On the coat v the technical, I’m not sure as I’ve never had either done. Probably the coat.
I am sorry, I am against wearing dead rabbits no matter how euphemistically presented. Abigail Aldridge
Thank you Abigail.
I’m assuming you’re vegetarian then? And would call meat and leather by its names as well?
I’m genuinely interested – that isn’t meant to sound aggressive at all.
Thanks
Dear Simon, thank you for your gracious reply with a question. In general, yes. Still working on my diet, no meat for many years, still eating fish, that’s next to go (pescatarian sounds so annoying). I do think about rabbit fur a lot, I have two rescued house rabbits who are intelligent and enchanting. And I am a milliner who has gone fur free about 5 years ago. No more fur felt, which sadly takes a toll of five rabbits for each snazzy fedora etc., unless it’s wool felt. I am not an activist but I am taking a stand as part of the bigger cultural shift and as an animal lover.
Thanks.
That’s rather a shame with fur hats – wool isn’t really the same quality is it?
Given the history and original military purpose of the jacket, the fur is an interesting idea, but it doesn’t really work.
Interesting, but not successful.
Hi Simon,
I was looking for a navy overcoat with invisible fur lining and a Karakul collar as worn by King Edward VIII (https://www.storytrender.com/57753/regal-english-fur-lined-coat-fit-for-a-king-sells-for-5000-because-it-was-worn-by-abdicating-royal-king-edward-viii-who-gave-up-his-title-for-love/)
Any idea on the weave, fabric or fur used for this coat?
By the way are these made RTW today? Which bespoke tailors have experience cutting these kind of coats?
I doubt anyone will be making them RTW, no. Most Savile Row tailors would do a good job, though I don’t know which have more experience with fur.
I assume it’s heavy wool, and the text says the collar is lamb’s wool and fur lining similar to beaver
Thank you for sharing this. What a stunning coat ! I’m surprised it was auctioned for “only” $5000.
Simon,
Do you think Yves Salomon could make a Rakoon Hat in the Davy Crockett style ?
I’m looking for something warm for hunting trips.
Jason
Jason
I’m sure they could, yes
Very interesting post, Simon. I’m glad you feel comfortable with the lovely rabbit-fur lining, even with a cost close to GBP 1000. I’m a tad surprised at the need, however. Here’s why.
I own four very fine, vintage US Army issue field jackets: Two are Korean War vintage M-51s with shirt-style collars, and two are Vietnam War vintage M-65s with rounded collars, of the type featured in your post. All four are American made and original issue jackets (one unused old stock), not reproductions. I have worn all of them at various points during Wisconsin winters, which, I daresay, are far more severe than most London winters. These jackets are quite warm when layered over a cotton/merino sweater of medium thickness, itself worn over a shirt or T-shirt. There is no need of a lining for my comfort, although I believe I possess an army-issue lining for at least one of these jackets.
Of course, people differ in their sensitivity to the cold. It could be that, having lived in Wisconsin and the northern US for more than half of my life, I have become adapted to the harsh winters — they are a decent trade-off with the beautiful, temperate summers and gorgeous autumns. I must add, though, that the first 25 years of my life were spent in very tropical, often sweltering climes — British Malaya and southern India.
Anyway, I am glad you had the lining made for your M-65. It does look splendid, especially against the vintage surface of the olive-drab jacket. I do love vintage jackets and vintage clothes in general — their cut, quality and durability are often unsurpassed by anything new. I have a fairly substantial collection of vintage clothes, and am always on the lookout for interesting pieces.
Abigail’s comment is fairly stated – your rejoinder about being vegetarian shifts the moral responsibility back but really it should begin with the fur supplier (albeit difficult if ‘recycled’). Society’s main objection is using fur as a primary not secondary (to meat supply) function of the killing of the animal. If greater transparency to source and supply (if a meat bi-product) were given it might have a more morally acceptable function. The problem is the opaque supply chain – partly due to trad. fur farming practices being so dubious. However with many animal species under environmental pressure I think acceptance of the practice continues to decline. Re- use is often rejected as it continues to normalise a practice that is distasteful to many for the reasons stated above.
Thank you.
On the transparency point, actually most high-end houses only source from named dealers, which themselves declare their sources and are regularly audited.
On animals under threat, I find this an interesting area as nearly all animals are farmed, making the production entirely sustainable. Otherwise the farm wouldn’t last long.
I certainly agree that re-use risks normalising the use as a whole.
Why is it more acceptable if the primary use is meat supply? If a rabbit is killed for its fur, but the meat is also eaten, what’s the difference?
Sleeveless wool cardigans seem geriatric and pedantic to me, not at all consistent with the militaristic, outdoorsy connotation of the field jacket. And the sleeves on that jacket are quite wide. I know Simon has a thing against narrow sleeves, but those just look sloppy to me.
I’d have just gone with a chunky crew-neck or roll-neck sweater or, if the jacket is indeed as warm as reported, a t-shirt. Field jackets are so omnipresent currently that there seems no point in buying vintage unless specifically for the discount (certainly not the case here) or parachutesque fit. I’d probably also pass on the bunny.
True on the sleeves, that’s inevitable with vintage. I do like vintage over any new in pieces like this though, as no new piece ever has the character – until it’s been worn heavily for a decade, anyway.
And good point on the cardigan – it does contrast in its tailored look, but I rather like that.
It might be interesting for readers to see photos of the lining by itself and another of the all the buttons that were added to the jacket just to show how much work was required.
“The fur lining turns this pretty cold field jacket (cotton is crap in both the cold and the wet) into something practical in winter.”
You’re right, but I’d argue that it’s not quite as cut and dried as ‘cotton is crap in the cold’ because it overlooks the one big advantage cotton has when it comes in the thickness you’d find in a field jacket: wind resistance.
Yesterday in Ulaanbaatar the temperature plummeted to -40C, with wind chill down to -47C. It’s parky, to put it mildly. I don’t wear any kind of synthetic technical fabrics as I don’t like the look of them, so most of my winter coats are wool, but over the last few weeks I’ve found myself gravitating towards a vintage cotton trench coat with a zip-out Thinsulate layer (on top of the usual shirt and thick lambswool sweater). When I bought my two trench coats I expected them to be of use only in the spring and autumn, but I’ve found that a layer of cotton over my clothes provides a protective shell over everything else. At -40C the wind cuts right through the looser weave of a wool overcoat, stealing away your warmth (and at that temperature you *really* feel it), but the trench coat keeps everything locked inside.
Of course Mongolia is an arid country so I don’t have to contend with moist air. In A wet environment cotton would lose its advantage, but when it’s cold and dry you could happily pop to the shops in a cotton field jacket without feeling the bite as long as you had your fur lining or a warm sweater.
Hi Simon. Your line regarding the flexibility of a grey cardigan stood out. I have fair colouring and although I have navy and grey cardigans it’s the latter that I invariably end up wearing underneath a jacket. Navy is fine but it tends to draw the eye and as you say with dark blue jeans can look a bit too matchy.
Dear Simon,
Lovely post as always. Very interesting points regarding the attachment of the lining. I have a rabbit fur lining from a Mackintosh raincoat with the buttons on the liner and the loops at the coat inner side. Do you think that it would be possible to use the same liner for a shooter jacket. Obviously, the loops are not there and should somehow be attached to the jacket.
Interested in your thoughts. Do you think that this is something your local tailor can do or should be taken to a specialist like Salomon?
Have a lovely New Year!
Thanks, good to know on the loop/buttons way round.
In terms of putting it in another jacket, the limitation will be the internal size of the new jacket. Presuming the loops need to be sewn onto the seams, the internal size will need to be very similar for the liner to work in something else
Fantastic idea! Cause I cant afford the fur tailored lining, despite the fact of fur, I try to adopt your idea: my intention is to use Barbourˋs warm removable lining and bring it with the field jacket to a tailor. I guess he will be able to stitch loops on the lining and buttons in the jacket…
It will be far away from your tailored high end solution, but I guess it could work.
If it wasn’t for the placement of the decimal point, I’d be commissioning one of those to be rid of the polyester fur in my old Solway Zipper.
What shoes are you wearing here Simon?
A pair from Ascot Shoes – article coming soon
Hi Simon,
I got a vintage M65 and would like to turn it into a MZ65 as Marco Zamblado. Do you know where could I get the bespoke fur interior liner for my jacket? Thank you.
Why not at Yves Salomon – the subject of this article?
Yes. Whom should I contact for the bespoke fur lining ? It seems to be a brand which sells other stuff.
It’s largely a fashion brand now, but they also have a fur workshop under the London store (and are still the fur makers in France for most of the big designers).
I haven’t done it myself, but I presume you need to phone the London store and ask about a bespoke lining – or for the fur workshop
Hi Simon – have you considered applying some kind of waterproofing treatment to this jacket (or any other cotton ones)?
I’ve got a similar jacket that I’ve often wished was at least a little waterproof, and I’ve been tossing up whether I should wax it or use one of those Nikwax washes.
It feels like the kind of at-home adaptation that should be quite manageable, but the only places I can find online that discuss the outcomes tend to be technical hiking blogs rather than more style oriented ones.
I haven’t no Tony, and to be honest I wouldn’t. If I wanted a waterproof jacket or at least more resistant one, I’d buy a wax jacket or similar. The lovely thing about a vintage cotton piece like this is its feel, the softness of the cotton as it has been worn in over the decades. I’d be afraid any treatment like that would affect this hand of the cloth.
Hi Simon,
How has your usage of this jacket changed, if it has at all? Has the recently much intensified discussion about sustainability changed your view on the jacket, i.e. The fur liner? Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Hi Carl,
I still love it. The only thing I’d change is getting a thinner fur, as this is quite thick for how the jacket fits.
And on sustainability, not at all. This and the second liner I had made used second-hand fur that would have been wasted otherwise. So pretty sustainable.
Or do you mean issues about animal rights?
On the latter, worth looking up our separate article about the rights and wrongs of fur.
Coming back to this discussion in the spirit of dry Jan, which feels good. Not sure whether the liner has gotten any use lately, but asking nevertheless: what would you change about the liner after a couple if years? You mentioned that you’d potentially go for a thinner fur for example…
But also regarding where it sits in the M65, any improvement points? Closer to the edge/zip?
I have been shying away from having the liner made due to cost, but am considering the idea again given I have old fur.
Against that bacground: what are the key questions/instructions you would give to the tailor/fur tailor if you were commission another fur liner?
Hey Carl,
I would have it in a thinner fur if it were for this type of jacket – more like the mink we used here.
I get more use out of that second one, because it fits into a raincoat and our donegals. Have a read of that second article if you haven’t already.
In terms of instructions, the best thing is if something already has a liner, and you use the same pattern to make a fur one. But it can work without or not. I wouldn’t change the fit of the one I had here
Quick question on the M65: do you still have the hood inside the collar? Mine has it and I’ve so far refrained to remove it to maintain the “historical integrety” of the piece, but I do find it annoying as it makes the collar unnecessary bulky. I wonder how other M65 owners have dealt with the issue.
I’ve left it in there and haven’t found it too bulky myself. But if it’s something you plan to own for a long time, and not re-sell, then I wouldn’t worry about taking it out.
Hello Simon – old post, but do you mind if I ask what size you wear in the Drake’s knit? I was looking at picking one up as well
Medium
Every (southern) winter since this article came out, I’ve been thinking about doing something similar, and I think this particularly nippy winter will finally get me over the line.
Simon, I have a question about the choice of fur. There’s no real fashion fur market here in Australia, but there are three skins markets which are pretty non-controversial:
Do you happen to know if there’s a strong reason for or against any of these for this purpose, apart from style?
I know nothing about Possum, Tony, but of the other two I’d say shearling is great, but wouldn’t really feel like fur in the same way. It’s great, but not the luxe feel of the other furs discussed. And I love rabbit, so I’d go with that. It’s incredibly soft and luxurious
Many thanks, Simon.
The crucial question I forgot was: roughly how much area did you need to make up the lining?
I’ll probably have to source the skins myself, and will need to allow a fair bit for wastage, but don’t even really know what the ballpark is!
Do you have a removable liner for any other coat or raincoat? That can be quite a good thing to go off. If not, it’s really just a question of measuring the inside of the coat, bearing in mind you don’t want it to go to the very bottom probably – perhaps to the bottom of your seat
?
I’ll come back with an update when there’s something to show!