A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes.
It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities.
At one end of the spectrum, it must suit going to an art gallery and a nice lunch; at the other, playing with children on your hands and knees.
I’m sure it’s for this reason that readers have asked about clothes for the weekend so much recently.
So in this post I suggest one easy, capsule weekend wardrobe, based on things I wear a lot.
It starts with a base of oxford shirt and jeans, and then presents three alternatives for shoes, knitwear and jackets, to be swapped for different activities.
It is intended to be basic. As with all similar ‘capsule’ posts, it establishes the building blocks of a wardrobe, to be built on over time.
More unusual, characterful clothes can be added on top. I make a few suggestions of those at the end.
1. Foundation
The starting point for these different looks is a button-down oxford shirt (in PS Oxford cloth) and jeans (bespoke Levi’s) pictured above.
There are of course lots of casual options. Chinos work very well, as does a good polo shirt.
But these two – the particular colours and the particular materials – are the most versatile. Good jeans can be used in every situation, as can a shirt this casual. As will hopefully be shown below.
As with all the clothes shown, quality and fit are crucial. Which is why my shirt and jeans are bespoke, in materials that I enjoy and know wear well.
Bespoke isn’t required for good fit, of course, but don’t forget that fit and quality are important with casual clothes as well as with tailoring.
(The fit may even be deliberately different – e.g. a wider-leg trouser – or the quality different – e.g. a coarser cotton. But their importance does not change.)
2. Shoes
Shoes might be the most intuitive of the following three categories, just because guys are used to the idea of swapping shoes for different purposes.
The ones I’ve chosen (above) could all be called casual, but cover every weekend activity for me, apart from actual competitive sports or adverse weather.
The brown-suede chukka boots (Saint Crispin’s, on a personalised last) are the smartest, and great for an art gallery or most other strolls around town.
The white trainers are from Common Projects, and provide a slightly more casual alternative for similar activities. As set out in my trainers series, they work for those situations because of their quality, their simplicity, and their long last shape.
And the third are more sports shoes, here from Japanese brand Reproduction of Found. I’d use these where I’d be afraid of mucking up the Common Projects. So kicking a football around in the park with my children, for example.
In each of these sections I’m also showing one full outfit that makes use of the different pieces.
Above is the smartest, combining the chukka boots with a fine cashmere knit in a smart colour, and a smart raglan coat (the Donegal Overcoat I designed this season with Private White VC).
Despite the fact we’re working from a base of oxford shirt and jeans, the overall look is pretty smart. Even more so with darker denim.
3. Outerwear
The second obvious thing to swap for different looks is the jacket or coat.
Notice none of these are tailored jackets. It’s not that smart. But by simply changing the material, colour and length of what is pretty casual outerwear, most eventualities are covered.
The first option is the charcoal-wool donegal-shouldered coat mentioned above. This ‘balmacaan’ style is smart because of its length and colour, but casual because of its loose fit and raglan sleeve.
It dresses up jeans in this capsule wardrobe, but could also dress down tailoring.
The second option is the classic Valstarino suede blouson from Valstar. It’s been noted many times in the past how versatile this is, because of the nice suede and the button fastening (rather than zip).
A dark-brown suede would be more versatile still, but I’ve shown this mushroom colour because it looks so nice with blue denim, and because it avoids a clash with the brown chukkas.
And the third outerwear choice is a military-style utility jacket (shown in my arms above, and styled in the next section). Immediately more casual for its rough, rugged style.
This could just as easily be an M-65 field jacket – either way, it’s a much more casual, but still versatile option.
Those three jackets should cover pretty much every eventuality, just like the shoes.
With the utility jacket, I’d be happy on a wet day, wiping down a muddy dog. The Valstarino is obviously casual yet still luxurious. And any of them could be worn down the pub.
The combination in this section (above) shows the Valstarino with the Common Projects trainers, as well as the oxford shirt and denim of course. My default for going to the cafe with the newspaper.
4. Knitwear
Changing knitwear is more subtle than the other two categories, but still makes a big difference.
The three pieces here are an oatmeal-cashmere V-neck (Loro Piana, the smartest), a brown shetland crewneck (Anderson & Sheppard, in the middle) and a grey-cotton sweatshirt (Merz B Schwanen, the most casual).
Each sits where it does primarily because of its material, but also because of its colour and style: the shetland would be smarter in navy; the cashmere would be more casual in a crewneck.
They can easily be swapped between most of the other footwear and outerwear combinations.
Consider the donegal coat and the chukka boots, for example. All three of these sweaters could be worn with those two, resulting in differing levels of formality.
I wouldn’t wear the brown shetland under the Valstarino, but I would wear the other two – and the effect from luxe cashmere to cotton sportswear would be marked.
The combination I show in this section (above) is the most casual.
It combines the most relaxed of the sweaters – the grey cotton – with the utility jacket. Either the brown chukkas or Reproduction of Found trainers would be great on the feet.
It would look nice with a beanie too – either a smart cashmere PS watch cap or, at the casual end of the spectrum, a rolled wool one from someone like Heimat.
Not all of these 11 pieces of clothing work with every other one. I wouldn’t wear the sports shoes with the donegal, for example.
But there are many different combinations in there, and together they make up a small capsule collection that (for me) covers all eventualities with some satisfaction.
If you then want to add some more exciting (but potentially less versatile) options, I’d suggest some to consider would be:
Shoes:
- Tobacco suede boots
- Chelsea boots
- Bolder, more fashion-drive trainers
Coats:
- Donegal in a brown or green, so more casual
- A camel-coloured polo coat
- Leather blouson rather than suede
Knitwear:
- Roll neck, particularly at the smart end of the spectrum
- Hoodie, at the casual end
- Shawl-collar cardigan, great as a jacket alternative
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Certainly like all the looks but particularly the M65 look.
On that note , I understand yours is a vintage, but where would your recommend one could purchase a new M65 ?
Thanks.
Just to be clear, this isn’t an M65 pictured?
Real McCoys would be my first place for a new one, though they’re not hard to find vintage
The utility jacket looks good, which brand is it?
RRL
You look very relaxed and perfect in this outfit. I definitely bookmark this page so, that whenever I want to order I can check this page. Nice post thanks for sharing. 🙂
Simon, does your St. Crispins chukka have leather or rubber soles?
Rubber. Thin rubber
All great suggestions and a reminder that these kind of posts are probably the most useful ones on this site. Especially for me where any of these combinations are probably some version of the office default.
I really like the color of the Valstar. Goes great with the blue hues as mentioned and not as common and obvious as a dark brown would be.
Great post.
Why would the chukka boots crash with a dark brown Valstarino ? And is there a smart way to avoid that. You write that the dark brown Valstarino is more versatile. But how can it be considered versatile if you cant mix it with the most common color for semi-formal shoes?
Thanks.
It’s not a big thing, but personally I’d try to avoid a brown suede jacket and brown suede shoes/boots at the same time. I’d go for brown leather shoes, or a different colour of suede.
And you’re right, that is a problem with brown-suede outerwear – but it is the most versatile in every other respect, in terms of other clothing it can go with elsewhere.
I love the look of the oatmeal v neck, I’d love one like that but no way can I afford loro piana prices unfortunately, has anyone seen similar (in quality ideally if no colour) elsewhere?
Ian,
John Smedley has its own online outlet (updated every other week or so), where prices are between 50% to a 1/3rd of the original price. Much of it might be in unusual colours or designs, but there are V necks in oatmeal at times. With patience you’d find what you’re after. There no difference in quality, it just pieces that might be of a previous season or have limited stock available I guess.
thanks Noel, I do look on there every now and again but I always seem to see weird patterns or fuschia tops designed for dwarfs or giants! I’l keep my eyes peeled and keep checking
Can’t speak for the relative quality of either piece but Kent Wang does one if you’re in the U.S. Not sure if they ship internationally.
Luca Faloni makes a lovely oatmeal cashmere v-neck, although it’s a slightly less fine gauge than the LP. I’ve had mine for about 4 years now and it still looks great (a good example of how quality in cashmere only really shows with time – I’ve had similar sweaters from J Crew that looked great brand new, but very quickly lost their shape).
Depending on your budget, look into Saman Amel. They offer mtm knitwear in Loro Piana cashmere, but they’re still a good deal cheaper than the LP ones.
Try Luca Faloni
Ian, give Luca Faloni a try.
A long awaited article indeed, excellent put together as always. Could you possibly share the brand of your field jacket which you wear on the photographs?
Sure sorry – it’s RRL
Interesting post as ever – am I correct in thinking this is the first time you’ve referred to wearing sports shoes? Any plans for an article on them; there’s a huge range of styles, some of which are wearable. Others…..not.
Yes it probably is, just because I wear them so rarely – and just for, well sports. If it’s something I want to not mind kicking a football in.
It’s not something I’d personally wear much and therefore really focus on. A full piece is unlikely therefore.
Simon, This is off topic. I’ll try anyway. Any big city can be dangerous, and looking fashionable and wearing a visible wristwatch could get a mugger’s attention. Have you noticed around London that muggings/attacks happen in such an unpredictable way on the weekend or weekday that it’s not worth trying to blend in with lower-end attire? I’m coming to London soon and although I won’t be flashing visual enticements – is it ill-advised to wear a higher-end wristwatch tucked under my sleeve?
No Robert, it’s not really an issue. If it’s big and gold and shiny, and you’re in a dodgier part of town at 2 in the morning, maybe. Otherwise you’ll be fine
Robert it’s a sad fact that daylight muggings in central London over watches etc is rife. Take great care.
Plimsolls aside (I hate those things) this would be a great selection for a flaneur wintering in Naples.
For us Brits I think we need something more substantive.
On the knitwear front I would heartily recommend the Inis Mean ‘Boatbuilder ‘.
For footwear I would go with the Joseph Cheaney Jackie III R Chuckka boot – great for the country, beach and city.
And with regard to outwear we must have something completely water proof and here, the PS/PW ‘Trench’ is an absolute killer. Apart from being a sartorial masterpiece – it is perfect for all occasions. As is the featured ‘Donegal Overcoat’ which I also own and would declare a versatile bull’s eye that would flatter any flaneur !
For the rest of it, I have two questions for Simon :
Firstly, are the bespoke Levi’s seriously a better option than the NW1 ?
Secondly, have you got a dog ? If so, I certainly wouldn’t suggest wiping a muddy one down in that utility jacket !
On Levi’s, it really depends on how much you want made to measure – in terms of design or fit.
On getting the utility dirty, like most workwear, it will only look better once worn, dirtied, washed and worn again. One big difference from most tailoring
Simon – long time reader but first time poster. I just wanted to say that these “casual dressing” posts are great. Hopefully you can continue writing more in the same vein as I suspect I’m not the only reader who finds them very useful.
What are your thoughts on the practicality of the suede Valstar in the UK climate (i.e. as it rains, constantly).
Every time I see pictures of the jacket I’m immediately drawn but more often than not I then turn my head to look out of the window and it’s throwing it down.
I suspect you wouldn’t recommend wearing the jacket for any significant time in the rain and, for me, that feels quite impractical.
Thanks
Mark
Thanks Mark, that’s good to know.
For practicality of suede, I’d see our video on looking after it – it’s more robust than most think, though still not for chucking if down – and the reversible one we did as a solution
Hi Simon,
Another excellent and welcomed post, and I echo the above comments.
Re reversible Valstarino, you mentioned earlier this year for some plans on a brown reversible one, is this still in the works?
Best,
Chris
Yes it is Chris, just confirming it at the moment. Would be next Spring. Email [email protected] if you want to be on the waiting list
well simon i think this is the kind of posts that at this stage of PS are more than welcome: pieces that build over previous pieces. i see this one as a continuation of the core casual wardrobe both in theme and style of writing. not that other posts were not connected to previous ones, but stylistically i find here a clear sequence of concepts. so, happy to see how you will continue deepening these ideas.
this capsule wardrobe is solid and my take on weekend wardrobe would not differ much from yours: maybe just loop in a rugby shirt or a casual sport coat (it does not get that cold down here to wear the donegal coat).
Very useful post. Thank you. Was the mushroom Valstarino a Mr. Porter exclusive? Can’t seem to find that color available.
It was from a few years ago
How robust and versatile did you find your Armoury x Real McCoy’s horsehide jacket? I seem to remember you had it caught in the rain–did it hold up well?
Yes, very much so. Horsehide gets better the more you have it in the rain.
Not that versatile though. Only suited to more casual, workwear looks
This is a particularly useful post for we retirees who only have the occasional need for more formal clothing. Simon, your weekend wear is my daily. My suit (Hemingway’s) just comes out a couple of times a month.
All look good. but would wear to visit someone or out for a meal. When running errands etc, a hoodie and jeans or khaki’s with a pair of trainers is easier. I’m not a fan of “dress trainers (sneakers as we call them)” Shoes or regular trainers for me.
Very nice article, I really enjoy your articles on more casual clothes, from blazers and sports jackets to sweatshirts and jeans since that’s the kind of clothes I wear the most.
How would you compare the Merz B Schwanen sweatshirt to your other Japanese Loopwheeler ones (in quality, fit, thickness and so on)? And what size is your sweatshirt?
Merz is very good, and is still loopwheel. I’ve found the Loopwheeler ones a little nicer, but it’s marginal. Also Loopwheeler is thicker.
My Merz is a Medium
Dear Johannes,
from own experience I can recommend Merz Schwanen, but the sizes seems to be different between the type of sweater. In the crew neck I am wearing S (which is my standard size) and in the hoodie I had to change twice the size, from S to L.
Thanks to both for the reply and the info.
I’ll try the Merz B Schwanen to begin with since the Japanese one from the brand Loopwheeler seems quite difficult to get a hold of in Europe. And I’ve only heard good things about Merz before as well, now I’ll just have to decide if I should go for the heavy or medium thickness version…
Hi Simon,
I really like the colour of the suede jacket. Is the jacket RTW or MTM/bespoke? Would you say that it’s similar to the taupe suede that Stoffa use?
RTW. It’s slightly richer in colour than the Stoffa, but not too dissimilar
Thanks. I have an asymmetric jacket in dark brown suede from Stoffa, which I love, and I’ve been considering ordering one in taupe too, so it’s good to see something similar. If this was still available it would be a very interesting alternative.
Great post! I’m terrified of having “baggy Dad jeans” and appreciate that fit is key.
I’ve always believed that jeans should be worn with a belt (some style “rule” from, probably, British GQ magazine in the ’90s that I’ve stubbornly stuck by!) but you look great wearing them as they are. I have a white oxford button down shirt from Emmett that I’ll wear now with jeans on the strength of your post.
Great article Simon, really interesting. I’d say my office is now so casual and informal these outfits would actually be completely suitable for work, perhaps with chinos swapped in for jeans. I enjoy your articles on high-end tailoring, like the previous one on Michael Browne, but pieces like this are the most instructive.
Hi Simon,
Very practical advise on this post, thank you once again. Two questions. What is the reason you would not wear the shetland crew neck under the Valstarino? too chunky a sweater for it or is it mostly the clash in formality of the materials? Also, I was expecting to see the PS Bridge Coat make the list, any reason it is not?
A little too chunky, and a little too casual, yes.
The Bridge Coat would also have been a good one for this list, pretty much a good replacement for the donegal. I just couldn’t include them all.
Now in my mid 50’s I no longer think denim jeans are appropriate although denim shirts are timeless. Welcome your thoughts although I know you are decades younger !!
It’s hard to give real advice on, as I haven’t been that age. But I feel instinctively that there’s nothing wrong with denim on older guys. Just keep it slim but not skinny. And combine it well with casual things like casual shirts and boots.
As a sixty six year old flaneur I rail against the idea that denim is inappropriate.
If one stays in shape and has the appropriate jean cut, there are no barriers !
Hello Simon,
Really useful stuff; something similar for weekend dressing in hotter climates would also be very welcome please.
Cheers,
Nick.
Do you have a link to where I can find the mushroom Valstar jacket?
Thanks
It’s not current season I’m afraid – I’m not sure it’s available anywhere
Hi Simon,
May I know what is the size difference between your common project and the ROF sneakers?
Thank you.
You mean, what sizes are they both? What size did I take in each?
Yes what sizes do you take for both? 🙂
42 in Common Projects
43 in Reproduction of Found
“it avoids a clash with the brown chukkas. ”
Very interesting and convincing indeed although I could have worn both in dark brown.
Do shoes have to be darker than the rest?
And also maybe you can help: what colour of shoes would you recommend with chocolate brown slim trousers? Thank you.
No, shoes don’t have to be darker than the rest.
Often it’s better if they’re darker than the trousers, but that’s mostly with more formal clothing.
Brown trousers are not easy, but I’d suggest either a brown leather that’s even darker (leather might add some shine, creating needed contrast) or if the trouser is dark enough, black
Just curious – why no belt Simon?
Style point or am i right in thinking those jeans have no belt loops?
Style point – I generally dislike belts and had them taken off these jeans
Neat.
How heavy did you go with your Balmacaan? I’ve recently made myself one in a 25 oz undyed wool and absolutely love the fact that it is so much heavier than my usual overcoats. I know it may not be as useful when the weather warms up but I’m loving having a proper battle weight overcoat. I was just interested in how heavy you went with yours and wondered if you would ever go any heavier?
Did you see the piece on the design of this coat Tom? It’s here:
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2019/10/introducing-the-donegal-overcoat.html
I hadn’t but will enjoy having a read!
Which colour Shetland is your jumper? I popped today into Anderson and Sheppard to have a look at their Shetland jumpers, and allmost all of them looked too uniform in colour (maybe lightning was too bad?) When I mentioned that to them, they showed me moss green, nice colour variation but I would much prefer brown…
Mine is from two years ago I’m afraid. I’m not sure the same colour is still available.
At least it all shows how uncommercial this site is – nothing is available to buy any more!
Martins,
Are you familiar with O’Connell’s in the US? They have a pretty wide range of Shetlands made by Laurence Odie (the best Shetland maker I have tried). They have a color called Autumn which looks very similar to the color Simon has here. The pictures on their website aren’t great, but there is good color variation. Die, Workwear! had a good picture of this color some years ago (article name: Taking a lot of Shet). Hope this helps.
I have pretty much eliminated collared shirts these days, except for special occasions. All that ironing! I am retired of course so it’s easier for me. However I am determined to remain smartly dressed.
I feel t-shirts, short or long sleeved can look fine as well as everything else is spot on, ie nice tailored jeans (blue, grey, beige), a cashmere jumper, crew or standup collar, a nice bomber jacket or one in suede, again fitted and with a baseball or standup collar. You can add a cashmere or other sport coat (a la Sam Amel) and high end sneakers. I also have a few cashmere (sorry, but I’m addicted to the stuff) overcoats, slim fitting, in navy and camel.
A cashmere scarf is essential and smart in our Australian winter.
What are your thoughts please?
Best
Rob
I think just wearing crewnecks looks good on some people, less on other Rob. I find it doesn’t work that well with my relatively long neck.
And yes on crewnecks, but less so on T-shirts, short sleeved or long. They’re never going to be as smart or nice as a knit or collared shirt.
The nice thing about crew neck or roll neck is that if the material is good enough and fine enough (in terms of thickness), it can work equally well by itself or under a sports coat.
Unless extreme, having a long neck is nothing to hide. If you have a long nice line extending from the back up to the nape of the neck, that can be very elegant. (In fact, a long neck is a quality they look for in the ballet world). I used to do competitive ballroom dancing as a hobby, and the men would actually try to raise the hairline in the back of their head by a half inch little (e.g., by shaving, if necessary) in order to create the appearance of a longer neck line.
That said, in terms of balance, pairing a long neck with a roll neck might look better than a crew neck. And conversely, if you have a short or squat neck, a top with a roll neck should be avoided.
Wow, I never knew that.
I can certainly see how a long neck would be considered more elegant – certainly compared to a rather short one.
I guess it’s mostly about proportion. In the same way someone with a long neck might have a higher collar, a crew neck sits rather far more down on the neck, and a collared shirt (or polo shirt) sits higher.
Personally I don’t think a crew neck under a jacket is flattering on me for that reason. It’s the whole suits-and-T-shirts thing. In my view, people seem to think it’s about how you wear it, but it’s more about the proportions of the wearer.
One of the problems with T-shirts, in my experience, is that they don’t look too good if you’re not muscular. Polos however are a nice middle ground. They’re more dressed up and less of a pain to care for than shirts. By the way, Simon, a post on ironing etc. would be more than welcome…
Nice point David, yes. The advantage of the flattering collar.
Noted on the ironing.
I love denim but I really dislike jeans worn with ‘smart’ clothing. Yet, I can’t work out if this is a blind spot all of my own or a genuine issue the rest of the world needs to be woken up to, and fast.
Good clothes, whether grunge, couture, Savile Row, work wear or athleisure should say ‘SEX!’, or at least attempt to, but jeans worn in this way say, ‘NO SEX!’ It’s too meek and mild. Too polite. Even worse than the Dad jean look, which at least says, ‘BAD SEX!’.
I love all the clothes Simon suggests in this piece but I just couldn’t bear to wear them with jeans. And chinos would be just as bad. But I concede that I can’t think of an alternative that would look good in my eyes. You could wear no trousers of course, but that would be likely to shout sex in a way no one wants.
I think the problem is dressing in this way lacks mystery. You look exactly what you are: polite, respectable, affluent, tasteful, safe. And none of those things have anything to do with glamour.
If you wear a bad suit and polyester shirt, people will assume you are a middle manager of some sort, but they can’t be absolutely sure. You could actually be a drug runner, alcoholic or escaped convict. There is still some small room for ambiguity, enough to lend even that uninspiring outfit more glamour than the smart jeans look is able to muster.
Anyone agree with me? If not, help me. It’ll make life easier. And casual dining less stressful.
“Good clothes, whether grunge, couture, Savile Row, work wear or athleisure should say ‘SEX!’, or at least attempt to, but jeans worn in this way say, ‘NO SEX!’ It’s too meek and mild. Too polite. Even worse than the Dad jean look, which at least says, ‘BAD SEX!'”
People unavoidably make certain inferences – and judgments – about people based on the clothes they wear; therefore personal style is really about what type of image, and ultimately what type of values, you want to project. Although sex appeal can be an element of that, it’s certainly not the be all and end all – especially for men. Although sex appeal can be more direct for women if they want to go in that direction (e.g., low neckline, high hemline, type of shoes, color of nail polish, etc.), for men, sex appeal tends to be more oblique. There’s nothing overtly sexual about a well cut suit, in the same way that there is about wearing a miniskirt with stilettos. The only exception I can think of for men is leather (which has a certain inherent sex appeal), but that’s the exception that proves the rule.
As for jeans, it really depends a lot on the type and what they’re paired with. Dark jeans can look quite elegant when paired with a sports coat. Lighter colored jeans can look quite sexy when paired with a leather jacket.
“I think the problem is dressing in this way lacks mystery. You look exactly what you are: polite, respectable, affluent, tasteful, safe. And none of those things have anything to do with glamour. If you wear a bad suit and polyester shirt, people will assume you are a middle manager of some sort, but they can’t be absolutely sure…”
I guess it really depends on the image you want to project – and, I suppose, the type of woman you’re interested in attracting. I personally don’t see anything glamorous or sexy about a bad suit and polyester shirt. And I don’t think the type of clothing pictured here has to be boring. It’s all a matter of fit, taste, quality of the materials, how it looks on you, and perhaps most importantly, what the event is. Finally, to state the obvious, I wouldn’t wear any of the outfits pictured here for a date night or to a night club, but then again, none of the outfits pictured here are intended to be worn for such an outing; the outfits here are really daywear weekend outfits.
I’m a little unsure what you are proposing to ‘sex’ up these outfits. A pair of open crotch leather chaps peut -etre ?
Seriously , this is a ‘capsule’ proposal and therefore provides just one choice of strides to get you through the weekend. In that scenario it is impossible to beat the ubiquitous jean. Any other choice (cords, moleskin, flannels or chinos) would fail with one or more of the sweater or coat proposals made.
Regarding the broader point that Simon’s looks lack glamour and mystery, you have a point. He certainly doesn’t come across as Serge Gainsborough or Bryan Ferry but that’s because he is clearly appealing to a broader church of flaneurs.
And by doing this he provides a great service and has created a somewhat unique niche.
There are a couple of items in this post that are truly excellent. One I already have (Donegal coat) and another (Levi’s bespoke) is giving me cause to ponder.
Levi’s have discontinued the particular type of 501s that I have long sported and I’m now obliged to go thru’ the trauma of finding an alternative.
This is where PS becomes particularly useful and Simon’s fastidious research comes into its own.
Set against this, when he gets the hoodies and the common projects out I run for the hills. But, in all probability, this will be when the 25 year old yuppies sit bolt upright.
At the end of the day Simon can only make proposals and each flaneur must make their own selection (or not) and plow their own glamorous/sexy furrow and in this regard I’d be fascinated to learn your choice of lunch strides !
Alex
Personally I think denim and tailoring goes extremely well together.
A weekend combo for me will be well faded jeans, a classic navy bespke SB blazer, white or pale blue OCDB, cardinal red socks, and espresso suede slip-ons. Works well for gallery/casual lunch in eg The Wolesely.
Swap the jeans for mid-grey flannels, and you’re set for cocktails at Duke’s/dinner at Murano.
Give it a try.
I have 2 Luca Faloni cashmere sweaters, which I love. Luca Faloni has great basics, and I find they’re excellent value. Not cheap but not ridiculously priced; all in all, excellent quality at a fair price.
Speaking of which, does anyone have any experience with Luca Faloni’s cashmere-silk blend, and how it compares with their pure cashmere? The crewtop in navy and oatmeal both look quite nice.
I love the way this section of Permanent Style is turning a little into a discussion between followers rather that simply a Q&A with Simon. His views will always be vital of course but it’s nice to see more opinions from others on various posts to get a greater feel for different viewpoints.
Simon, many thanks for this post. I’m curious about why you wouldn’t wear the shetland with the Valstarino. Is it the colors of these particular pieces?
See comment above Patrick
Sorry, but I forgot an important element. Like many here I am interested in your posts on casual dressing. In fact these are the ones which I read exclusively.
After a century of being corseted and constricted, comfort is king (apologies for the alliteration). I am delighted to see PS moving with the trend. Again, well done Simon. You have great instincts.
Cheers Rob
Good article, thank you. Thanks also to Alex and Jason for putting a smile on my face…leather chaps, ha!
The more I read this article the better it gets. You make a great point about shoes.
‘Shoes might be the most intuitive of the following three categories, just because guys are used to the idea of swapping shoes for different purposes.’ A suggestion, as an alternate, would be to swap the sports trainers for a more rugged outdoor shoe or boot for park walks and inclement weather and add something more weather-proof for the M65.
Nice point, yes. Boots would be better for walking, less for casual sports. Kids make a big difference there!
Extend to five days and this capsule would already be an elevated version of San Francisco/tech/silicon valley work wardrobe.
Great post.
Thank-you for a really interesting and useful post. There’s some really good food for thought here.
My sartorial standards have certainly dropped since becoming a dad- a bunch of uniqlo merino crewnecks that get thrown in the washing machine as quickly as my son Jackson Pollocks them- perhaps, in his Way, he’s telling me to go upstairs and put on the William lockie camel hair cardigan and he’ll treat it with more respect.
I really like the deep V on the Loro Piana oatmeal sweater- any other makers with that kind of style? Also will look at upgrading the grey sweatshirt.
I think Jeans are too versatile not to be a key part of a capsule wardrobe like this. Getting the fit and quality right is key to avoiding the ‘dad jean’ look, although part of that is down to the ‘dad bod’ underneath the jeans.
A utility jacket is very functional for daddy day care, although I find a nice pea coat can elevate the rest of the outfit.
Rubato has that same deep V, but that’s also quite a distinct fit in other ways
Hello
Are you really advocating wearing a fashion house trainer costing £165 to go to the park to kick a football around with your children? Why not a shoe that is designed for sport?
Not for me thanks.
Yes I’m afraid I am. I want to like the design and the make too.
Interesting.
When I played football with my kids it was mainly for their benefit, rather than mine. And our garden was large enough for us to play there rather than have to go to the local park, so I could wear appropriate footwear rather than have to worry about people seeing me.
My kids got a bit of playground cred when their friends said “wow your Dad drives an Aston”. Don’t yours get bullied when you wear shoes like that to play footie in the park?
Thank you for this nice post, which is so useful! Especially the suede jacket fits so nicely, like second skin!_Could you also wear a thin wool sweater underneath, or would this make everything to bulky?
No, a fine knit could certainly work underneath
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the nod on the Valstrino – I’ve emailed your team and look forward to seeing/ordering it in the spring.
ON another note, I’ve been toying with a loopwheel for ages and your Merz b. Schwanen 346 hits the mark. Did you got for the normal or heavy version?
Cheers,
Chris
No worries Chris.
I think it’s the normal? The one weight stocked at Trunk in any case
Simon, you write you would not wear the Shetland with the suede jacket. Could you elaborate? Thanks. Mike
Hey Mike – it’s above in the comments.
Hi Simon,
could you perhaps do a post on tasteful sportswear some time (gym clothes or tennis)? I know you wrote something on some retro running brands a while ago, but some of those feel a little costumey to me. Are there any other specific go to brands for you, or would you also fall back to regular gear from Nike/Adidas etc.?
Have a nice evening!
Sure Felix, I can try and do something. Simon
Simon, what about knitwear for warmer weather? For spring/summer, is there a point in getting cotton sweaters to use with shirt/chino outfits, or is fine merino better? I’m not really that fond of sweatshirts
I think it’s worth having one cotton and one fine merino, in something versatile like navy. But you won’t wear them anywhere near as much as in the winter
How would you compare the Blackhorse Lane E5 jeans to a pair of bespoke Levis?
Would you say the material on the E5 is better? (possibility to get alterations), but I really do love the colour the Levis.
With bespoke Levi’s you can have any material you want, from pretty much any good mill. So Levi’s certainly aren’t worse from that point of view. You can pick your material and your cut.
Okay, one more question. Why the gray sweatshirt? It keeps popping up on every men style blog I’ve seen. The grey and crewneck parts are obvious – the first sweater I bought was in this style exactly, and is the most versatile I got. But what makes cotton so good here, and why sweatshirt instead of sweater? I have never owned one, so I don’t quite understand the appeal.
A cotton sweatshirt is a lot more casual. And so a rather different look to wool, cashmere etc. Much more sporty. Indeed, I wear mine before and after sport, with shorts
So it doesn’t go under topcoats, peacoat, over ocbd or with cords?
It can do the last three certainly. And the first one if it’s casual (eg a tweed raglan coat)
Hi Simon,
Was wondering which sweater of the Merz b. Schwanen do you own? The mid-weight 346 or heavier weight 3S48. Also I’ve heard these sweaters shrink after the first wash, is it worth sizing up for that matter?
Thank you very much.
Mid-weight, and no mind hasn’t shrunk. Make sure to stretch it gently after washing
Dear Simon,
Would you have experience with both lined and unlined valstarinos ? Is it in your view different in shape (one « fluffier « ?), or warmth ?
Thanks !
I have tried both, yes, and the only difference I’ve really noticed is how easy one is to get on, and how nice it is to feel the inside of the suede on the other. Minimal difference in warmth
Hello Simon,
Wondering if there are any “bolder, more fashion-drive trainers” you particularly like ?
Thanks !
Not particularly. I think the most I would do in that area would be a similar trainer to those RoF, such as New Balance, in bright red or bright yellow.
Thanks!!
Simon, you have not said much about your Reproduction of Found trainers, are they comfy and durable? And where can l get a pair, please.
Yes they are both comfortable and durable. I’m not sure they’re made much better than a Nike, and are of course more expensive. But they have the advantage of being more niche and unusual.
I got mine from Trunk, but I don’t think they stock them anymore
Since I tend to dress like that on a daily basis, which kinds of casual jackets would also work well with suede loafers? Leather might be too much, but would suede/wool/cotton blousons or olive m65 work?
Yes, the latter all would.
Hi Simon,
I’m revising this post because of the increased interest and relevance of the smart-casual/weekend wardrobe, and also for the wonderful looks you have put together.
One particular item that stood out for me was the Valstarino mushroom suede blouson. It’s lovely with the blue denim and as an overall look. Do you think you might consider this colour as a possible next colour for the PS Valstarino and put your spin on it?
Cheers.
Hi Neil,
Nice idea. Yes I’ll certainly consider it
Hi Simon,
Regarding MERZ B. SCHWANEN 346 CREW NECK SWEATSHIRT does it run small or I have to size up? Some shops says that they come with an 2cm extra length to compensate for shrinkage.I have a 42″ chest size.
I sized true to my normal size, personally
Hi, Simon
You mentioned about wearing a scarf with a crewneck sweater and I like the look of it. Would this look be suited with a bomber jacket and some jeans and can I wear the scarf also with a button down shirt along with crewneck?
Yes, certainly, that would be nice
Hi Simon,
What brands would you recommend for a pair of mid blue jeans? Bespoke Levi’s it’s not accessible in my country. Thanks
I’m not sure I know any on mid-blue to be honest. I’d always recommend raw denim, given how beautifully that wears and ages, but all the ones I know are dark indigo
Could a dark indigo jeans work with a navy Valstarino jacket?
Probably not, no
Hi, Simon
Could these jeans from BlackHorse Lane be considered as a mid blue jeans?
https://blackhorselane.com/collections/mens-jeans/products/e5-relaxed-tapered-indigo-14-5oz-turkish-raw-organic-mens-jeans
yes, definitely
Hey Simon,
Still coming pack to this post and the others like it for reference. So, thank you!
I’m finding myself wearing jeans less and less. I own a pair of the Blackhorse Lane E8’s. they’re very good, but like all decent jeans, they’re uncomfortable and hard to make semi-formal, unless wearing a jacket or shirt.
Because of this I find myself wearing chinos. Following your excellent recommendations, I now own a few pairs of Incotex and love them, but looking for something harder wearing, like a jean, but with the benefits mentioned above that a chino can provide.
Have you tried the Blackhorse Lane chinos, or do you have any other recommendations, ideally UK retailers for ease of trying on?
Best,
Chris
Hi Chris,
I have tried the Blackhorse Lane ones, yes, but they were an old sample. I am in the process of checking on the current ones and doing more content on chinos more generally, so watch this space.
S
Hi Simon,
Unfortunately the PS scarf it’s not in stock. What similar scarves do you recommend from other brands?
The Anderson & Sheppard small ones are nice
Hi Simon,
Tad tangential but this seemed like the best thread. We’ve our first baby on the way in March, so amongst everything else I’m thinking about how I need to adapt my wardrobe. Any tips?
Well, I think comfortable clothes that are easy to wash! Denim and good cotton T-shirts, sweatshirts
Hi Simon. This post is a succinct gem but not consolidated into your ‘Building a wardrobe: Capsule collections’ page. I think it should be, as it might otherwise be lost to readers. Just a suggestion.
Aha, good point Flynn. Thanks – I’ll do that now
Any particular recommended brands for chinos? Thanks!
As mentioned above, more content coming on them.
Hi Simon,
What other garments could work for Spring? For bottoms, I am thinking at jeans,chinos, cotton trousers or cords.
But other than Oxford shirts what could fill up this wardrobe?
Long sleeve polo shirts, cotton sweaters, knitted t shirts?
I can’t think of other.
As for the polo shirts worn casually what brands do you recommend also for cotton sweaters The Friday polo as I read is not intended casually.
Thanks!
Hey Michael. This is a huge area, and not really one I can deal with in a comment I’m afraid. This capsule collection is narrow on purpose, with no change to shirt or trousers, and even that took a whole article!
I can answer a very specific question or two, but otherwise this will have to wait for future posts.
Hi Simon,
I am planning to add to my wardrobe few long sleeve polo shirts for spring. I do like the style of Friday polo shirt. Can they be worn casually with some jeans or chinos? As for a alternative,do you recommend John Smedley polos for a casual wardrobe? And as for colours other than navy,a light grey or green could work?
Thanks!
Hi Michael,
Yes, the Friday Polo can be worn more casually like that too. The only thing that is less casual is the collar – but we do have free returns, so you can try it and see.
Smedley polos are great, but a different style – they’re made more like a sweater than a shirt, and I’d usually wear something underneath. Also not as well made of course, but mostly different being knitwear.
Yes, either of those colours could work. Aim for more muted versions, eg olive green
I have a 106 cm chest size. What size would you recommend for the Friday polo? Perhaps M?
And regarding the Smedley polos which of the long sleeve models would you recommend? They have different names and each model has a different collar.
Thanks!
The best thing with the sizing is always to compare the measurements of the polo to something you already own and like. It’s much more accurate than going off your body measurements.
On the long-sleeve Smedleys, unfortunately there isn’t one I really like in all respects – that’s why we sell our Dartmoor knit. The closest they have is the Dorset, which has the best collar, but is a very loose fit.
Hi Simon,
What do you think about the collar size? I have a smaller head than average and a long face. Could the collar size work or it will be out of proportion?
It could be fine Michael, it will depend more on what you wear it with I think.
O have read many articles criticising jeans casual shirts tucked into by adressing them as style reserved only for men above 40.
Do you think men younger than 30 years of age tuck their shirts into jeans?
I don’t think it matters in the slightest, Binal.
Most men are not well dressed. So don’t go looking for averages, or what most men do.
Hi Simon,
After reading many of your articles I have a basic ideea of what clothes I should have and you’ve been really helpful.
Because of my job,a seafarer working on a ship, when I am at home I don’t work which makes my wardrobe to be as a weekend wardrobe most of the time. But I have discovered I like a nice pair of cotton trousers and sometimes dress as high/low dressing, mixing tailoring with workwear.
But when it comes to what clothes to wear on top under a casual jacket ( Harrington, bomber etc)for summer, my mind is completely blank.
I have an ideea of what trousers to get such as jeans,cotton trousers,linen drawstring ones. Other than a short sleeve polo shirt and some cotton/linen shirts I have no idea and your help would be much appreciated.
I have so many questions regarding this area and would be really helpful if you would write an article regarding weekend wardrobe for summer.
For example, what brand of polo shirts do you recommend to work with jeans but also with a pair of cotton trousers? The ones from Fedeli look more sportier and I don’t think would work with cotton trousers.
Thank you!
Thanks Michael, a really interesting area.
To be honest, there’s not much more I’d wear under a summer casual jacket other than a polo, a shirt, or maybe a T-shirt. It feels like that covers everything?
Or is it more than you can’t find the right pieces in those categories, like the polo you mention?
Hi Simon,
Yes, it’s more about the type of garments to wear.
As for polo shirts,what brand do you recommend that could work with tailored cotton trousers(sometimes I want to dress up but in the same time not to be out of place regarding other people) but could be ok with chinos and jeans?
Please keep in mind that my wardrobe is mainly a “weekend “ wardrobe.I noticed that some people wear short sleeve polo shirts tucked in which I am not a fan but then I haven’t tried that and I guess it’s more about how the polo fits and that could work only with tailored trousers.
As for colors should I start with navy, green,light grey and white?
And regarding T-shirts, I was looking at Warehouse Co but they are out of stock and found Sunspel Riviera T-shirts.
Are they ok with jeans and chinos and nothing on top( jacket for eg) ?With this look I do like to try tucking them and wear a belt with chinos. For colors the same as polos I guess.
I do have other questions but I don’t want to write a book about it. Waiting for your reply .
Thanks a lot Simon, I appreciate it!
No worries.
For polo shirts, I like the Armoury ones, but I would always tuck them into tailored cotton trousers. Otherwise there’s little point them being smart and tailored really.
Sunspel Riviera T-shirts are a good staple, yes, and good with jeans and chinos.
Hi Simon,
So for the polo shirts they can be tucked in with tailored trousers but can they be worn untucked with chinos or jeans?
What do you think about Smedley polos or Sunspel? Are they good enough for trousers but ok with chinos?
Which brings me to my second question, belt loops or side adjusters on tailored trousers. I have to mention that my hips and legs are somewhat bigger than my upper body.
I guess that adding a belt will make my waist larger but I think it’s marginal. This effect is noticeable when worn without a jacket in summer.
What do you think?
Yes, they could be worn either way.
Sunspel is a good basic polo, similar in style to the Armoury, but I prefer the latter.
Smedley is very different, being made more like knitwear. It’s smarter.
On trouser details, see article here.
Hi Simon,
Thank you for the advice. What I meant above is that wearing a belt and having somewhat wider hips, the effect of a belt will be marginal in showing a wider waist. What do you think?
Also I do like the armoury polos however I can only buy from UK or EU because of higher taxes.
What do you think of Fedeli polo shirts? Or what other brand do you recommend for a polo?
Thank you Simon
I wouldn’t worry too much about the effect of your hips on that Michael.
Fedeli polos are nice, but a different style again. Very summery and soft. Not something I’d wear with smarter clothing for example
Hi Simon,
I am looking for some cotton linen shirts to wear with tailored cotton trousers perhaps with chinos or jeans. What colors would you recommend given that my wardrobe is mainly a weekend wardrobe. I do have light beige and olive cotton trousers.
Thanks!
Even though it’s mainly a weekend wardrobe, I still think you’ll find white useful, it’s so great in warmer months. I’d go for white, light blue, and a casual-looking white/blue stripe, like mine here.
Simon, what are your thoughts on something like the Informale utility vest for a weekend capsule wardrobe like this?
https://informale.com.au/products/v090-utility-vest-navy
I think it’s cool. I’m always looking for interesting “third pieces” to wear over a shirt in lieu of a tailored jacket in warm weather, and this fits the bill. The lapels and buttons give it a quasi-tailored look, but the pleated patch pockets, faded cotton, and overall style keep it rugged. The pockets are immensely practical. And it has just the right amount of interest–unique enough that others are unlikely to own something similar, yet not showy or flashy and indeed quite classic. I originally thought something like this was too unusual for me, but I’ve since grown really interested in it, particularly since it’s just so practical for warm weather.
It’s hard to say really without having seen it in person. My question would be whether it was a little bit between two styles – a little too much going on to be worn with smart things, but also not the easiest pairing with very casual things, given the lapels and so on.
Personally I wouldn’t wear it I don’t think, but again hard to have much certainty in that without seeing it in person.
Understood. I had a similar concern about the Colhays merino sport shirt you featured in your recent “Top 10 Spring/Summer” article, as the shirts are a little too sleek for casual outfits but, without the collar, not quite elegant enough for smarter ensembles. I think the utility vest is more firmly casual (despite some tailored elements), looking basically like a sleeveless chore coat.
Hi Simon,
I am planning to acquire some linen trousers in my wardrobe.Since my wardrobe consists mainly of “weekend wardrobe” garments do you think that some pair of linen trousers in Summer could fit in?
Can you please recommend some linen trousers colour to begin with? Since I purchase trousers from Rota ,they have an online configurator with linen fabrics. Can you be kind to point out on their website which colours to start with?
https://rota-pantaloni.com/products/configure-your-own-4
Thank you!
Hi Michael,
Yes, linen trousers could work at the weekend. From that page I’d suggest perhaps the light beige herringbone, and the dark olive.
Thanks Simon,
I own a pair of Doek ecru court sneakers but it seems they don’t work with ecru jeans or tailored cotton trousers. Do you think that a pair of Doek Oxford sneakers are better suited? And if yes what colour would you recommend since I have beige and olive trousers and ecru jeans , Ecru or navy ? I am looking to purchase a pair of navy espadrilles from Castaner for that matter.
Thank you!
I like the court sneakers with ecru jeans personally.
If you were going to get just one colour of the oxfords, I’d make it ecru too. It’s usually going to be the most versatile.
What’s your take on pairing Doek sneakers with tailored cotton trousers or linen trousers? Is the Oxford more suited or the Court as well?
Thanks Simon
The oxford is probably more suited – as here
You mentioned that you could also choose chinos and polo shirts. If you chose to go that route, how would you think about those items? In terms of chinos, what colour(s) would you recommend? In terms of polo shirts, what colour(s) and styles (pique or sweater/knitwear-style) would you recommend?
I think that’s a slightly in-depth question to answer in a comment, Quincy, though it’s a good one.
For chinos, I’d suggest reading the recent three or four posts we’ve done on chinos (including the comments)
For polos, I’ll try and do a separate post.
I took a look at some of the articles and saw you recommended a good starting point to be a pair of navy chinos and a pair of beige chinos. What would you say the differences are between a pair of navy chinos and a pair of dark wash jeans? Do you think both would be deemed essentials in a casual weekend wardrobe?
No not necessarily, good point. They are different in smartness and look, but also overlap a bit
You mentioned that you can also add a roll neck at the smarter end of the spectrum. I’ve always thought of roll necks as exclusively a F/W item, is that correct? So, once you’ve got a good rotation of mid-layers (crew neck or v-neck sweaters, sweatshirts) that are going to be appropriate for most of the year (as long as the weather permits), you can start getting more specific knitwear that’s more season specific. Is that the correct assumption with the secondary items? Do you think there would be any summer-specific items that would be similar to the roll neck, but just meant for the summer?
Yes, roll necks are more F/W, not because of any fashion point but just because of the practicality. If your Summers are very cold you can still wear them!
Yes, you can get more seasonal knitwear once you have more of the basics. Summer equivalents could be things like knitted polo shirts.
Do you suggest knitted polo shirts that are short sleeved or long sleeved?
They’re just different styles, but in general, if it’s not to be worn with a jacket, then short sleeved
What are your thoughts on linen shirts for the summer? Do you think they would be a good hot weather alternative?
Absolutely
What colour linen shirts would you recommend?
If it’s for a casual wardrobe like this, then I’d get blue first. Then white. And third, at some point, a blue/white stripe like Bengal or wider
What are your thoughts on the linen shirts from Luca Faloni? Do you recommend them in this context?
They are nice quality, but most are more designed for wearing untucked, and have a pretty low collar.
I was planning on wearing them mostly in casual settings either with jeans or chinos in the summer. I’m not really looking for any MTM shirts, but was leaning more towards RTW. In your opinion, if the styling of the shirt works for me, you think that the quality (fabric, construction, craftsmanship) is good/worth it for the price, correct?
Yes, it’s good value for that
What are your thoughts on a harrington jacket as a weekend option? I’m looking at the private white harrington in navy or green as a possible purchase. I have the pwvc peacoat in navy but it is a little heavy for spring/early autumn. I think the harrington could nicely fill this slot.
It’s a lovely weekend option, yes. Personally I tend to prefer suede blousons, but they’re a bit more luxe and smart.