Reader profile: Ben C

December 10th 2021

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...

Reader profile: Ben C

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Love the semi-casual....

Jackets - StyleDecember 10th 2021

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

March 10th 2021

  This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-be...

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

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Bespoke: - Yohei Fukuda - Seiji McCarthy - Nicholas Templeman RTW/MTO: - Edward Green - Alden - Crockett & Jones...

ShoesMarch 10th 2021

Petru & Claymoor bespoke shoes: Review

December 2nd 2020

Almost a year ago, back in January, I began the process of making a pair of bespoke shoes with a new outfit in Romania, Petru & Claymoor . Shoe fans might have seen some coverage of the brand over the intervening year. It was set up by Mirc...

Petru & Claymoor bespoke shoes: Review

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They've remained pretty stiff, but also I haven't worn them a huge amount because of uncertainties about the style. So not the best test case...

ShoesDecember 2nd 2020

The weekend capsule wardrobe

November 13th 2019

  A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities...

The weekend capsule wardrobe

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Great, thanks very much!...

StyleNovember 13th 2019

Which sports-jacket office are you?

June 5th 2019

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie -...

Which sports-jacket office are you?

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Yes that can be an issue. Look at Italian jacketings in particular, around 11-13oz if there are some. And go for a subtle pattern in the weave like a herringbone...

StyleJune 5th 2019

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

October 31st 2018

* For updates and stock please see the shop page*   Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular ...

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

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Have you ever pressed/ironed them? All smart trousers need that, and often cord more than others, as they do tend to bag out at the knee...

Coats - KnitwearOctober 31st 2018

Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two year...

March 23rd 2018

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured above; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, each time gaining in confiden...

Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two year...

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Thank you Russ, very useful. And yes I agree, doing it remotely is always going to make everything a step harder...

ShoesMarch 23rd 2018

Field jacket, rollneck and flannels

December 11th 2017

A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be afraid of taking inspiration ...

Field jacket, rollneck and flannels

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The Real McCoys will mostly be the same quality - the advantage of them over vintage is more that they are always available, in new condition, in a range of sizes. There may be little improvements, but I wouldn't buy on ...

Casual clothing - KnitwearDecember 11th 2017

Skoaktiebolaget and Stoffa in How To Spend It

April 15th 2017

He looks pretty suave doesn't he? Got a good lean on. Patrick at Swedish shoe shop Skoaktiebolaget recently posed for an article of mine, above, in How To Spend It magazine. (A supplement of the Financial Times, and arguably the top luxury publicat...

Skoaktiebolaget and Stoffa in How To Spend It

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Hi Simon, Have you considered writing for publications like Gay Times or Attitude? Both publications are aimed mainly at men and could increase your audience (and income). Best regards Joel...

Casual clothing - ShoesApril 15th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

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Thank you, and yes you're right. Today I would have had a loafer or two in there, more dark-brown suede, and I would have had a more subtle boot than that chelsea. Overall though, I would also keep bespoke mostly for mor...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US ac...

December 23rd 2016

The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction. Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than bespoke, but as with bespoke it can ...

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US ac...

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Hey Wes, 1) Yes 2) Two...

ShoesDecember 23rd 2016

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

December 16th 2016

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and Plaza Uomo has an English ver...

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

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Hi Neil, Has your copy come through yet?...

Coats - HatsDecember 16th 2016

The cap

November 30th 2016

If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures, and your lack of hair makes a...

The cap

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No worries Jay, no post is ever too old! It depends a bit on what else you wear, but I guess a dark-grey or mid-grey herringbone perhaps? Something with a little pattern but not too much, in a conservative colour, and pr...

HatsNovember 30th 2016

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...

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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....

Bags - Casual clothingNovember 4th 2016

Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review

May 26th 2016

If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere. Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator adelaide section around the lace...

Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review

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I haven't had any more, but I've had my two pairs of boots stretched to improve the fit. That service has been very good, and they have come back much-improved, but it does also show that the fit wasn't great at the star...

Shoes - May 26th 2016

Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London

May 8th 2015

  Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s store on Cliffo...

Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London

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I believe it's around £1300...

Shoes - May 8th 2015

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

January 17th 2015

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

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1. Partly, I'm fairly well into my career and earn decent money now - I couldn't have afforded anywhere near as much 10 years ago. And partly, prioritisation. I know people (particularly women) who buy even more clothing...

January 17th 2015

St Crispin’s sole

July 10th 2014

A picture post for Thursday afternoon. I love the shape that Phillip at St Crispin’s has got into the waist of this Dainite sole. Phillip has been taking orders at Drake’s for his St Crispin’s shoes this week. Don&...

St Crispin’s sole

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Yep, that's a good guide...

ShoesJuly 10th 2014