The (20) bespoke shoemakers I have known
The Ugolini workshop in Florence This article was originally written in 2014, then updated in 2021, and is now freshly updated for 2026. It feels like a good time to do so – I have four new shoemakers to add, but no plans to try new ones so...
The (20) bespoke shoemakers I have known
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Thanks, yes I agree...
The unique shoe tradition of Austro-Hungary ̵...
The Austro-Hungarian tradition of shoemaking is a significant one - until fairly recently it was the most influential in Europe, after the English. It is also a type of shoe (rounder, larger, more comfortable) that is perhaps a little more fashionab...
The unique shoe tradition of Austro-Hungary ̵...
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Thanks a lot, this kind of strengthens the impression I had and also the preference I was having....
Reader profile: Ben C
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben C
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Love the semi-casual....
Petru & Claymoor bespoke shoes: Review
Almost a year ago, back in January, I began the process of making a pair of bespoke shoes with a new outfit in Romania, Petru & Claymoor . Shoe fans might have seen some coverage of the brand over the intervening year. It was set up by Mirc...
Petru & Claymoor bespoke shoes: Review
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They've remained pretty stiff, but also I haven't worn them a huge amount because of uncertainties about the style. So not the best test case...
The weekend capsule wardrobe
A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one en...
The weekend capsule wardrobe
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No worries, sorry I couldn't be more help...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie -...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
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No it hasn't...
Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat
* For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular niche for p...
Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat
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I think that would be too much to be honest Nick, sorry. It might not be right for you...
Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two year...
I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured above; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, each time gaining in confiden...
Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two year...
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I probably saw slightly more, but it's part of the character of the leather I think...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be afraid of taking inspiration ...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
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I don't think there's a right or wrong here, Heiko, it's a style question mostly and the kind of thing that varies with time. It's also about how often you wear it with different things. I'd say that today, I rarely wear...
Skoaktiebolaget and Stoffa in How To Spend It
He looks pretty suave doesn't he? Got a good lean on. Patrick at Swedish shoe shop Skoaktiebolaget recently posed for an article of mine, above, in How To Spend It magazine. (A supplement of the Financial Times, and arguably the top luxury publicat...
Skoaktiebolaget and Stoffa in How To Spend It
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Hi Simon, Have you considered writing for publications like Gay Times or Attitude? Both publications are aimed mainly at men and could increase your audience (and income). Best regards Joel...
Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes
As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...
Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes
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Because the styles haven't really attracted me and I've had some quite poor reports on fit from friends...
Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US ac...
The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction. Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than bespoke, but as with bespoke it can ...
Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US ac...
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The coat is covered here The trousers are here...
Cover story in Plaza Uomo
These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and Plaza Uomo has an English ver...
Cover story in Plaza Uomo
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Hi Neil, Has your copy come through yet?...
The cap
If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures, and your lack of hair makes a...
The cap
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No worries Jay, no post is ever too old! It depends a bit on what else you wear, but I guess a dark-grey or mid-grey herringbone perhaps? Something with a little pattern but not too much, in a conservative colour, and pr...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....
Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review
If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere. Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator adelaide section around the lace...
Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review
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Crust...
Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London
Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s store on Clifford Street, ...
Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London
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I believe it's around £1300...
Bespoke shoes event: the speakers
Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy
Bespoke shoes event: the speakers
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1. Partly, I'm fairly well into my career and earn decent money now - I couldn't have afforded anywhere near as much 10 years ago. And partly, prioritisation. I know people (particularly women) who buy even more clothing...
St Crispin’s sole
A picture post for Thursday afternoon. I love the shape that Phillip at St Crispin’s has got into the waist of this Dainite sole. Phillip has been taking orders at Drake’s for his St Crispin’s shoes this week. Don&...
St Crispin’s sole
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Yep, that's a good guide...
