*For updates and stock please see the shop page*
Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular niche for people, but also just because it was outerwear.
Outerwear is one of the most exciting things to buy as a man, largely because it is so transformative. It changes your whole silhouette, and often dramatically: big lapels, long length, lots of lovely cloth wrapped around.
It’s also, therefore, one of the most exciting to develop. And it has been great working on this, the PS Bridge Coat, with Private White VC over the past eight months.
[The coat is available now on the Shop page. Please note that shipping is not until next week, however.]
The elevator pitch was simple. Given how diverse and fluid modern wardrobes are, pea coats are an incredibly useful piece of menswear. Few other things are versatile enough to go with smart jackets and trousers, but also with jeans and knitwear.
But they’re rarely designed with tailoring in mind. Pea coats are usually too short to cover a traditional suit jacket, and are often too small in the shoulder and sleeve.
So we made a version that corrects these points - suited to the Permanent Style reader.
That they can wear with their oatmeal blazers as well as their shetland sweaters.
But as well as adding 2.5 inches to the length, we put in some traditional design details. For as great as a lot of modern pea coats are, their designs are quite basic.
Most importantly, we changed those two lines of buttons up the front. These are usually straight and square, which is pretty dull.
They have been replaced them with a sweeping, flattering line more usually seen on overcoats - or on the naval officers’ equivalent of the pea coat, the bridge coat.
Those two lines (as you can see below) narrow slightly from the hips into the waist, which is flattering in itself, but then bow dramatically outwards around the chest, creating an impression of strength - an impression accentuated by the line then narrowing again at the collar.
These two sweeping lines are only seen in full when the coat is buttoned all the way up (which of course it is able to do - like any good tailored coat).
But even when only partly buttoned, this curving front edge adds character to the coat, creating lapels that curve outwards too - more like a double-breasted jacket than a normal pea coat.
Perhaps most importantly of all (for me), the materials are luxurious but understated.
So distinctive as that sweeping front edge is, the effect is subtle because the buttons are dark and matte: unpolished dark-brown horn set on deep navy cloth.
It hopefully achieves my usual aim with clothing: being stylish and elegant, but in so subtle a manner that no passer-by can point to its cause.
He may suggest the collar, or the cloth, but he would be wrong. It’s all about the front edge and those buttons.
This is perhaps a minor point, but I also wanted to echo the Savile Row style I have always loved by using the same buttons they do.
So the horn is not shiny, as the Italians use, or even really matte, again as the Italians sometimes offer. Rather, it is completely unpolished: often described as ‘dull’, though it is hardly dull to me.
And they will be two-hole. Again, a small thing, but it’s a style of button rarely used in menswear outside Savile Row.
Perhaps it seems a little more refined. Or perhaps I’ve just been looking at buttons too long.
In the same way the buttons are a step up in luxury, so is the cloth.
I love hard, stiff wools or melton in a pea coat. But over tailoring it’s a little too rigid. So for the PS Bridge Coat we picked a wool/cashmere mix.
At 20%, there’s enough cashmere to feel luxurious, but enough wool to make it suitably robust for an every-day coat. And the weight (620g) makes it versatile, if not heavy enough for the coldest winters.
Oh, and a point I particularly love: the pockets are lined with 100% cashmere. Because I use pockets a lot, and there’s nothing like putting your bare hands in a cashmere-lined pocket on a cold day.
It’s the kind of thing most brands would never bother with, because it wouldn’t help sell the coat off a hanger.
The coat has two in-breast pockets, with the left-hand one placed between two buttons so that, when the coat is fully buttoned up, you can still access it by sliding your hand in between them (shown in two stages above).
There is a nice big poacher’s pocket on the inside-left hip - so even if you have your hands plunged in both the outside pockets, there is sufficient room inside to carry everything.
There are two jigger buttons on the inside of the coat. One at the waist, as standard, and one at the neck level.
The latter enables you to fasten one layer of the coat across your chest, keeping you warm, while keeping the other open.
Style-wise this arrangement avoids looking too buttoned up, but it’s practical at the same time (below).
In the back there is a central box pleat, to help a little with movement when wearing a jacket underneath.
There’s then a half belt, merely for show, with a raised edge that echoes the pockets on the front.
And below that, a central vent that can be fastened with two button tabs. The tabs are nicely hidden away inside a fold of the vent, rather than sticking out (image further down).
And last but certainly not least, the Bridge Coat has a lovely brass-coloured lining, which I picked to look luxurious without being showy.
A traditional bridge coat - by the way - would be rather longer than this, ending just above the knee. But it’s a helpful term to indicate our version’s longer length than a normal pea coat.
And a bridge coat would have been worn by the officers on board rather than general seamen, so it fits with the higher-specced PS Bridge, with its cashmere-mix cloth and sartorial hardware.
(I should also say that the Private White VC pea coat, from which the Bridge Coat evolved, is a great example of the more traditional model - with that shorter length and in great thick wool.)
The Bridge Coat is available to buy now on the Permanent Style shop here, priced £850 (including VAT - displayed price does not include VAT until destination is selected at checkout).
There are 50 pieces in four sizes, from Small to Extra-Large (though several have already been taken by those on the waiting list).
You can see the measurements of the coat below, and I always recommend checking these against a coat you already have as the best way of ensuring the right fit.
However, as a rough guide the Small is equivalent to a normal size 48 chest (in European sizing; 38 in English), 50 for Medium, 52 for Large and 54 for Extra-Large.
For those used to Private White VC sizes, a Small is a 3, a Medium is a 4, and so on.
I am wearing a Medium in the pictures here. I'm usually a 50 in ready-made tailoring, sometimes a 48 if it's a boxy cut. I'm 6 foot tall and wear a 32-inch-waist trouser.
With the Trench Coat, I found I was between sizes, with a Small fine except over a jacket with the lining, and a Medium a little big over knitwear without the lining.
With the Bridge Coat I’m a solid Medium. It helps that there isn’t the complication of adding or removing a lining, and that the shoulders have the structure to fit different sizes of physical shoulder underneath.
Like the Trench Coat it is cut relatively slim - not skinny by any means, but also not the straight and boxy style of traditional pea coats.
The Medium is long enough to fit over all my bespoke jackets, the longest of which have a 32-inch back length.
The advice from Private White in comparison to the Trench Coat is as follows: "The trench coat has a traditional style and is made with about 6 inches of room between the wearer's measurement and the garment. This is to allow for multiple layers underneath.
"The Bridge Coat has more fitted style with only 2 inches of room. It allows for a light to semi-weight jacket underneath or a medium-weight jumper. However the cloth has much more give so it allows comfortable movement despite the narrower fit.
And in comparison to other Private White garments: "This is formal coat so it shouldn’t be worn oversized; but if you are in between sizes then you should likely size up. To compare to our Manchester Pea Coat style the coat is about a half-size slimmer in measurement but has much more forgiving fabric."
The measurements are below - in centimetres, on a flat coat going across or up and down, rather than the circumferences.
|X-Small (46, PW2)||Small (48, PW3)||Medium (50, PW4)||Large (52, PW5)||X-large (54, PW6)||XX-large (56, PW7)|
The sleeves are made without buttons, cuffs or lines of stitching, so they are easy for any tailor to shorten. They can also be lengthened, and there is excess lining in there, allowing up to about 2cm.
The length is fairly easy to shorten, but make sure the tailor is happy altering the vent at the back. That vent also makes it very hard to lengthen, so that wouldn't be advised.
The coat can easily be taken in at the waist, with three seams to work with. But I wouldn’t recommend doing so by more than 3cm on each side. It can also be let out, up to around 2cm on each side.
As readers will be aware, the Bridge Coat has been delayed rather from its original launch date in October.
We decided to put it on sale now as so many readers have been asking about it, but the coats will only be ready early next week - so please be aware shipping will not be until next Wednesday onwards. Thank you.
In the images I am also wearing:
- Oatmeal-cashmere jacket from Elia Caliendo
- White button-down shirt from Luca Avitabile
- Green flannel trousers from Elia Caliendo
- Black roll neck from Anderson & Sheppard
- Suede cap from Lock & Co
- Leather bag from Dunhill
- Suede boots from Saint Crispin's
Photography: Jamie Ferguson
Great Looking coat! However, I have two questions – was it a strategic decision not to make the back-belt adjustable and is the offer still kept in accordance with the PW pricing manifesto (I understand the more luxurious materials, but still)?
Thus being said, looking to buy one – I am a Size 48 in suits, would you suggest getting the Small or the Medium sized one (asking because of the comment, that this one is rather of a snugger fit that the usual PW Medium size)?
Yes, I don’t particularly like an adjustable belt on a shorter jacket like this.
Yes, it is still within the pricing manifesto.
Sizing wise, I’d probably say a Medium, yes, but worth checking some of the measurements to be sure.
I am surprised at the fairness of this pricing. Well done. Would love you to do jackets but realise there is less of a gap in the market
Simon, will PW do alterations through the Duke Street Store?
Excellent – All ordered so fingers crossed the fit works out.I was planning to order the regular PW pea coat but the line of those buttons just blows it out of the water.
Is it still covered by the PW lifetime Repair?
Good point, yes
Do you know if PW will do a MTM version of this for extra (as they do with their other jackets)? Also, will they be carrying any in store to try, or is it online order only?
Yes they will do MTM, and yes they will have some in store, just not yet
Excellent news – your lanky readers salute you and Private White!
As a general comment I love that PW offer this (as indeed do Luca Faloni for knitwear) and think it is a shame that it doesn’t get wider coverage. It makes such a difference for those of us of a more unusual shape.
[Please ignore my subsequent comment – I thought that this one had not gone through]
Luca Faloni does MTM knitwear? Whoa.
Do you know of any other that do so besides them and N. Peal? I’ve been looking forever…
Really nice looking coat but 2 questions…
1. Any plans for another colour?
2. Why no XS/ Size 2 this time? Will PWVC stock have XS/Size 2 or can you get some in?
1. No, sorry
2. I didn’t think there’d be much demand for XS given the sizing, but Private White should have some, yes
Pat, there are a couple of XS on there now
Is this likely to be a one-off run, or will it become part of the Private White VC collection?
I can’t predict the PWVC collections (they do also have their own pea coats) but it will be one we’ll get back in – like the Trench Coat.
(The Trench, by the way, was re-stocked a month ago, but most of the pieces went to readers on the waiting list. There are some left in XS, S and M.)
Marvelous looking coat indeed. If it will be a re-occuring item like the Friday Polos, I’m sure I’ll get one at some point.
It will be something we’ll get back in, yes. Thanks
I have been looking forward to your bridge coat since your first teaser, but I think a size S(3) would be to large for me?
I am 5,7 and normally wear a size 44 or 46 in OTR suits. So I hope in the next batch you would include a XS.
Yes, I think you’re probably right. We’ll look at doing XS next time, but do also talk to PWVC, as they may have some XS when they get it in.
Congratulations on another wonderful and thoughtful collaboration piece.
I have a question on sizing as well:
I got your PS Trench Coat in XS/2. I’m 5 ft 7″, 28.5 inches waist.
Do you reckon a size small bridge coat would fit?
I look forward to your reply.
I think it would likely be too big, but it is worth checking the measurements to be sure. Small and XL are the only sizes left!
Thanks for your reply. So my best bet for an ‘XS/2’ is to email PWVC and enquire?
Neil, we now have a couple of XS in stock from PWVC – on the Shop now
Lovely coat, i have previously bought the trench coat size 3 and other PWVC pieces size 3.
I’m not sure about the size for this one, shoulders measurements seem a bit small for size 3, also i note you have the chest measurement for size 3 as 50.5 inches is this correct?
It should be, yes.
If you’ve gone for size 3 and it’s worked well, then I’d go for that. But if you were between sizes, I would suggest sizing up.
Feels like I am missing something given no one else has asked yet… I see the fabric is 80/20 wool/cashmere but couldnt spot the weight of the fabric? How warm would this wear (ignoring the length difference) from the PV peacoat?
No you’re right – I’m actually just checking that.
It would wear very similarly to the PWVC pea coat – a little lighter but the cashmere is warmer
It’s 620g. Thanks
Thanks I will try to contact PWVC and hope they got a XS?
Your coat looks fine by the way!
Hi Frank, there are a couple of XS on the Shop now, courtesy of PWVC
Really nice job, Simon. Was hoping for XXL, but maybe in a future collaboration!
A lovely coat but I’m afraid I need a coat reaching nearer to the knee for a cold Canadian winter.
This looks like a really well thought out coat and it just so happened that I’ve been researching for a good pea coat for the last couple weeks!
I’ll have to pass on this though. I think some other commenters have already noted this but I hope you’ll consider XS sizing in your future collaborations/batches for existing items! I feel like a burgeoning market especially for us men of asian body type and I think XS sizing may better suit those with a lanky frame or below 5’8″ in height.
Oh well, I think anyone else whose in that demographic probably already knows the all-too-familiar feeling of finding something that’s fantastic and good value but simply too large.
Hi Oliver – we have a couple of XS available now, from Private White
Looks amazing! How is the water resistance? Does they Cashmere impact it very much?
For water resistance? No, not really. Like most wool coats, fine in light rain, not great in heavy rain but can be dried out well
Great coat.. As I’ve decided to forego the Northhampton factory visit, Any chance to have a look during my London visit next week?
Yes, Private White should have some stock in their Duke Street shop by then
Looks lovely, I’m a bit confused by the sizing though. For example the chest measurement for the large on the bridge coat is 56.5 inches but for the PWVC pea coat, the same size chest measurement is 46.5 inches – yet the bridge coat is supposed to have a more snug fit? Sorry if I’m missing something.
I find this confusing as well.
I think what the sizing is actually showing is the lying flat measurement across in centimetres. That makes much more sense to me than the circumference in inches. Also explains how one can have a length that’s over 80.4 and up (80.4 inches would need a 7 foot tall person)!!
Simon, would you be able to clarify please?
Sure, I’ll try to confirm all with Private White
OK, so it turns out I had this slightly wrong from PWVC. The measurements are different to their site – these are in centimetres, and are flat measurements across or up and down the garment, rather than circumference.
Apologies for the mix up.
Congrats Simon on a really well thought through and excellent looking piece. Sure to be popular.
This looks like a very nice peacoat. Nice job, But, I would prefer a true overcoat for tailoring. Plus, the market is saturated with peacoats every Fall/Winter. Not a criticism, but perhaps you could consider putting out a PS double breasted overcoat for the next project. I think it would be popular with your followers.
Thanks Dan, and nice to know.
Surely there are lots of DB overcoats in the market, though, while there are no longer pea coats like this one?
True, but lots of DB overcoats don’t have your input in their style or design, Simon
I think the PS bridge coat looks very, very similar in style to the Drake’s peacoat (which I have and love). The Drake’s version is also of a longer length, though the fit, as you mentioned in the write-up above, does not really cater well to tailoring underneath.
That said, I am really tempted by the PS bridge coat, the flaring buttons and lapel edge in particular are killer. The lighter but more luxurious material also a great differentiating point.
I have been envious of the lines of your bespoke pea coat ever since I first saw the sketches, and this looks like a fantastic option to one day own — once I save up enough money that is.
With regards to the lapels, is there any sort of canvassing or stiffening material inside?
No, there’s no canvas inside
I find the lapels stick out quite a lot at the front. Is this intentional or just the coat I received? I queried this with Private White who didn’t really answer the question and said a tailor could press the fabric if required.
I think that will just soften over time Alex. It looks like it’s been folded in a particular way at some point. You could steam it yourself, but just wearing it and keeping it folded down in the cupboard will soften it up
For me, popping the collar and making them stick out is the most appealing way to wear the Bridge Coat.
yeah.. I store it buttoned to the top and call it lapel roll!
Hi Simon….how did the experience of your Gieves bespoke pea coat shape the design of this marvellous piece and are there elements you have both incorporated and changed in this design, through wearing the Gieves coat over a significant period?
It did a little, but the basis was the Private White pea coat. The most obvious thing I loved from the Gieves one Davide made me was the line of the buttons, which are so lovely and make that front really dramatic but subtle.
Well done indeed Simon,
I very much like both your definition of elegance (subtle and hard to explain…) , the thinking behind the project , several details and the great pricing.
I won’t go for it as I already have a decent bridge coat and there is something I do not like with the outcome for the buttoning.
One question regarding the cashmere pocket lining: is cashmere not too fragile for it? What weight for this lining cashmere?
Good question – the lining is quite thick so should be fine. It’s also a very easy thing to replace if you need to do so in several years’ time
It’s a spanking coat Simon. Perfect in many ways and an almost exact replica of the coat designed by yourself and David Taub (PS 2014) sans frogging. Some credit therefore due to Davide/G&H archive for co-design and evolution? Accepting that, you have in fact improved on the original. I can’t think of many winter 2018 items that are more suitable for addition to a man’s wardrobe. The improvements and additions: Napoleon pockets, poacher pocket, brass coloured lining, cashmere pockets etc. elevate this garment even further. One question, given the US and UK markets use inches why give two sizing refs. but no inches ref. (which you actually use in the article – i.e. 32 inch back length etc.)?
I’m 5.7 and have a 31 inch waist but have broad shoulders for my height. My off the rack suit size is either 37 short or 38 short (American sizes), depending on the brand. Would a size small likely fit me? Presumably I would have to shorten the length a bit. (In America, a “short” garment is typically about an inch shorter in length than a regular garment, and about 2/3 inches shorter in the sleeves.
On a related note, how much longer than a suit jacket should the cost be?
I think a Small should be fine, yes, though you may well have to alter the sleeves (length is more a question of choice).
Generally you would want the coat to be at least an inch longer, perhaps two to be on the safe side
Excellent coat. Do you happen to have a picture of it partially buttoned up (skipping the top two buttons) with the collar folded down? Would love to see the size and line of the collar/lapel in the way I would wear most often.
Hi – no, sorry, not at the moment
I can see that XS has Bern added Noe, thanky. One last question – would you wear it as a regular peacoat with i.e (smart) chinos and a sweater?
Yes I would – in a similar way to how I have it pictured with the roll neck
Hi Simon, will you be having a pop up store in the near future? The coat looks terrific, but I always like to try something on physically before buying. I must add that it looks one of the nicest pea/bridge coats I have seen.
Thank you Stephen.
We will have another, but probably not until the New Year. You can, however, go into the Private White VC store and try them on
Hi Simon, given how quickly the XS and S sizes have sold out and other sizes are still available, will these XS and S sizes be prioritised in subsequent updates?
There will certainly be more of them produced as a result, but they won’t come any quicker I’m afraid – looking at the New Year currently
Looks terrific Simon. Would be awesome in an olive green for next winter. There are so many p-coats in navy blue it’s hard to distinguish them. Just for reference Drakes also did a P-coat very similar to your Bridge coat a couple of years ago. It was an interesting collaboration with Makintosh and LoroPiana. Beautiful cashmere blend, navy on the outside and grey on the inside of the coat for a nice detail.
It was cut longer to cover tailoring. Perhaps if your customers are not finding their size in your coat, maybe Drakes will re-launch their iteration which is virtually the same.
Thanks Chris. I think that had a different button configuration from what I remember? But yes, it was great for length over a jacket
Hi Simon – Is the Bridge available to be picked up in person? I live in the US but will be in London next Monday and was wondering if I can buy it on line and take delivery in person? I am a size 54-long…assume the XXL is the right choice?
Probably that size, yes Chris.
I’m afraid it won’t be available in person, no. As mentioned, the coats won’t be ready until the end of next week, and wouldn’t be in store until the following one probably. Sorry.
What an absolute classic and a must for any thinking flaneur’s wardrobe. Just the sort of thing PS should be doing !
PW are a great company and your Trench collaboration with them was also outstanding.
I’d love you to get together with them and design the perfect travel coat in corduroy .
Simon, do you have measurements or sizing information for the XXL?
Yes, sorry. I’ve just added it now
Looks to be a fantastic design.
However, it has been years since I have invested in a coat like this for one reason.
Wind protection. It seems that no matter how tight the weave, or heavy the fabric, there never was a lining that prevented the wind from making its’ way through to my chest. The coats seemed to work best on sunny, calm days, with low humidity.
Is there a lining to this, Simon, or will the wearer be relying on what is worn underneath to provide a wind – break?
There’s nothing between the cloth and the thin lining you can see, no
Would you consider this coat suitable for cold winter days? I live in Boston and am in need of a woolen winter coat, but am not sure if this would suffice for our colder days. Either way, beautiful coat. Thanks.
It depends what you mean by colder Jonathan. In London it would usually be fine. In Boston or Scotland it probably wouldn’t, for the whole winter at least.
Simon, This is a beautiful coat. I cannot wait for next week to receive mine. However, I want to do it stylistic justice so ….Could you please provide those new to such luxury a few suggestions for hats, scarves and gloves. I’ve seen the suede cap and green scarf on prior posts but those are not currently available and I wonder what else might look good: fedora? PS watch cap? Thanks.
I wouldn’t wear a fedora with a style like this, but any beanie or watch cap would be nice (and of course my favourite is the PS one), or a cap as shown.
And almost any colour of scarf or glove would work with navy – I particularly like green and shades of beige or tan in scarves
If one wished to wear a brimmed style of hat with a Pea-coat type design like the Bridge Coat, given that a fedora wouldn’t work terribly well with it, is there a style which might? I’m a fedora kind of guy, but can’t help feeling that they would just look wrong together; and I’m having trouble visualising anything else, short of something like a Naval uniform cap, which might.
It would be hard. A smaller brim and perhaps upturned brim would help, but I’d go with a beanie/watch cap or a flat cap as I’m wearing here
Damn, got distracted midway through the order process and it was already gone by the time I came back! Any chance you’ll be getting more in large over the next few weeks?
We’re hoping to have a small run (largely for a waiting list) before Christmas. Email [email protected] to get on that
Stylish coat Simon.May I ask who manufactured the cloth or the name of the merchant?
As for sizing,I take it you meant cms. not inches.Even so 53cms.on a medium chest looks to be too snug a fit.As for 17.5cms on a half shoulder I would have expected 24cms at least.Could you clarify.
I don’t know the merchant I’m afraid Tom, but in any case it wouldn’t be available in cut lengths (for bespoke).
I’m pretty sure the measurements are correct, but I’ll double check.
Hi Simon,lovely coat.I’ve just placed my order.Do you know if the order comes with a garment bag?
No, it doesn’t
Amazing all the XS are gone guess will have to wait a bit…
Do email [email protected] to get on the waiting list, just in case. We may well have exchanges in sizes
Simon, I have a peacoat but am always a little lost as to what to partner it with, I usually resort to rollneck jerseys and jeans/cords but would welcome any suggestions – it’s just that a shirt collar always seems to get easily lost underneath the collars…
I know what you mean, though this is softer than most given the cashmere content. Also I would have assumed you’d normally be wearing more than just a shirt underneath, if it’s cold enough to need the coat? In that case a jacket or crewneck would help support the shirt collar?
Hello! Guessing that your long experience in the fabric industry has provided you a wide range of knowledge on attempts at new weaves and material. Have you ever come across discussions which explore the viability of ballistic protective fabrics or lightweight aramid weaves that provide some measure of stab resistance?
Like many of your followers I’m former military and know about heavy and uncomfortable body armor panels. But I was wondering if technical advancements in the fabric industry is vying to create protective material more viable for everyday wear.
Not that I’m aware of, no. There has been discussion on posts before around kevlar or gore-tex though. Eg here.
*Realized after reading your site that the 850GBP included VAT. I was confused as I thought you explained it slightly differently last time. I think that is the same pricing model as before, PWVC just seem to have a different process and don’t remove VAT for US customers. Disregard the last comment and thanks very much!
Another great product. I am on the waitlist crossing my fingers. What are your thoughts about owning both a pea coat and a polo coat? Are they different enough to justify? If you were to get both would you go for navy?
Yes I think certainly different enough, in length, therefore warmth, and formality. And yes, probably navy. Perhaps a herringbone in the polo to avoid being too similar
Just received my coat. It is beautiful.
A couple questions:
1 – In the third picture (not including the picture in the title), are you wearing a jacket underneath the coat? I am curious what degree of taughtness when buttons you feel is okay when wearing a sport coat with this Bridge Coat.
2 – I noticed that the interior of the coat on both sides have buttonholes. What is this for? Is it purely decorative or are you supposed to be able to button the coat with either side on top? I have a couple other pea coats that do not have this.
1. No, just knitwear
2. There will be at least one buttonhole on the front edge of the right side of the coat, to button to the jigger button inside of the left. Maybe email if you want to talk about it more?
My bridge coat has finally arrived.Hurrah!I thought that I would make a few points that might be of interest to other potential purchasers.
Snug fit,even on a slim frame.I’m 5 10 tall,40 chest….bought a medium (size4).I will wear this coat with a sweater,a jacket underneath would be too tight for me.
Looks to be well made.
Nice buttons and lining.Very understated.
All in all,a very nice coat.Well done to Simon and PWVC Good to see a British company producing a quality product.
Fantastic, and nice notes for everyone else. Thanks
Agree on the cloth, and the snug fit. Unfortunately, despite going up one size from the trench coat and up a size from what I normally wear in outerwear, it’s too tight for me. So if anyone is waiting for a size 3/small, there’s one about to come back.
Thanks, good to know. There’s a lot of people on the waiting list waiting for returns!
any chance of doing swaps on returns? Medium for a Large or similar? Or will the people on waitlists get the returns first?
No, existing customers will get priority on exchanges for different sizes. Just make sure to request the size exchange when you go through the returns system here:
One more comment.I’ve just tried the coat with a 16oz jacket underneath,surprisingly, it does fit!
Received mine the other day but only just got around to unpacking today. Always loved the PW pea coat but never pulled the trigger. Ordered this thinking it was on the pricey side but worth a try. first time I tried it on I loved it. I know it is designed for tailoring but I think it works just as well smart casual. I wasn’t sure about the lining in the photo but actually it’s slightly more subtle in the flesh. Although not too slim the curved buttons do create that silhouette. And the pockets I never thought I would ever want cashmere pockets until I tried them!! Only slight issues are the neck jigger button, it can be quite fiddly to fasten and on me when you do the lapel does push on the next slightly. But that could just be my short neck. Feels incredibly warm too, maybe a few weeks before I can actually pull it out of the wardrobe
Received the coat today and it looks very good! However, as I am quite new to this, my question is regarding how the shoulder should fit. I have tried it on with knitwear, a jacket and the fit throughout the body is very good (5’8 and ordered size M). The sleeves would have to be shortened slightly, which is ok, but the one thing that makes me second-guess are the shoulders, which seem bit too broad and ruin the clean look. If I would go down a size, the shoulder could fit, but everything else would be too tight. Any suggestions?
It sounds like you probably have the right size Justin – the wider shoulder is needed to give the shoulder of the jacket underneath room
my Bridge Coat arrived yesterday. Cloth and fit are wonderful, I immediately fell for the cashmere lined pockets. No gloves for me!
I can wear all sorts of knitwear underneath and also an unlined jacket. Wearing both a sweater and a jacket would work around the shoulders but makes for somewhat tight fit around my mid-section. Time to hit the gym ;-).
The curved silhouette when fully buttoned is a very elegant feature. Well done, Simon.
PS: A spare button and some sort of discreet “Permanent Style” label inside for future editions?
So pleased Jan!
A spare button is a good call, I’ll get onto that. On labels, I’ve never particularly wanted to, as it perhaps suggests that PS is becoming more of a brand? Interested to know what you think. I also always liked the clean look on Row tailors or the A&S Haberashery of not having any label inside.
fully agree with the totally clean, non-label Savile Row look and this may indeed be an interesting option for future batches (if you can convince yourself and Private White).
But the PS Bridge Coat as it is currently done has the same label as any Private White coat/jacket/garment. Which is not a bad label at all and you and me will know the difference…but your Bridge Coat is NOT just another Private White coat. Maybe an “inspired by Permanent Style” below the current label? Or inside one of the inner pockets?
Speaking of labels inside an inner pocket: The label with the cloth description is attached in a manner that it reads “80% Wool, 20 % Cash” :-). Irrelevant detail but maybe of interest to you.
Thanks Jan, good point
I would second the spare button! Indeed, if you could sell some I’d happily buy them – while unlikely to lose one, I don’t think I could ever source them. And also agree with your no label ethos. Keep up the amazing work!
Why Permanent Style and not Crompton or Simon Crompton?
Permanent Style is the name of your mental aesthetic sphere.
1. Doesn’t cashmere outside in wool mix make to too fragile?
2. What’s the difference and advantage, disadvantage to Merchant Fox pea coat?
3. Would it replace a covert coat?
1 No, not in that kind of proportion. Like any good coat though, don’t wear a shoulder strap, backpack etc
2 Advantage is original design, sweeping buttons, luxe touches, length over a jacket. Most of the things mentioned basically. But Fox will be tougher
3 For warmth, yes it could.
Could you please precise the color of the cloth ? black or midnight blue ?
Dark navy really – not even as dark as midnight
Great looking design Simon. I prefer a more relaxed fit and went with the standard Private White version and am happier with it than any other peacoat I’ve tried in the past. Speaking of fit – do you have any inclination or plans to test out PWVCs made to measure program? It would be an interesting comparison against the Gieves coat you had made a few years ago.
Good point. No I don’t, but good one to bear in mind
Lovely coat Simon but I do wonder whether the peacoat (aka bridgecoat) has become well let’s say a bit yesterday. I may be slightly influenced by living in the US where the peacoat is quite ubiquitous and perhaps this should not really matter since you are carefully refining was is a pretty basic piece of outerwear. For what it’s worth, it feels like the new “it coat” for winter 2018/19 is in fact now the dufflecoat. Drakes and Ralph Lauren Purple Label both have hit the trend early. I suppose you can now start thinking about refining the duffle coat for your PS iteration next winter. Perhaps unrelated here but I for one can’t wait until overcoats go back to being longer and more elegant. Today’s overcoats are simply to darn short – just a hint for your next design.
Thanks Chris. I’d like to think the peacoat isn’t quite as trend driven as a duffle coat. That seems to be one reason it’s so widely seen – it’s less showy and, for a guy that wants a short coat, it works much better than stupidly short overcoats or trench coats, as you say.
On the length point, it’s obviously a reason we did our trench coat at a longer length, but you are also seeing it around a bit more now – see the Private White great coat for example
I’m going into Private White VCs London store front this morning to try on their pea coat (with the intention of purchasing one of the next round of Bridge Coats they’re manufacturing).
One question for you, you indicate Bridge Coats are typically worn longer than this one is designed to. Will wearing this one longer fit with its silhouette?
I’m 5′ 8″, wear a 50 (european) suit and 31″ trousers, as such the medium will fit through the chest and taper properly to the waist, but wear quite long compared to how it wears on you.
Yes, I think that will work fine. And you can always take a couple of inches off the length at a later date if you want, without affecting the overall silhouette much.
Mine has just arrived. Superb materials but I’m doubtful on the fitting…
I am used to wear a size 48 ~ Medium… following size indications I purchased a Small : shoulder and sleeves are fitting well, but with a thin sweater when I button the coat it looks too tight and the back vent it looks “suffering” … it’s fully opened and not as “relaxed” as I would have preferred ….
I guess than sizing up shoulder and sleeves would be too big…
The way sizing suggestions are given might be improved, but this is the risk of e.commerce.
Thanks Henry. Do let me know any specifics on improving the sizing info if you can.
Lovely coat, great quality. However, I find buttoning up the interior jigger buttons nigh on impossible, particularly the top one.
Interesting, thank you. Perhaps drop me an email if you don’t mind, I’d be interested to find out what’s causing that
Came across this coat in PW VC Duke St. Absolutely gorgeous – bought it straight away. More stylish (and limited edition) products please.
Nice. Will do!
The coat is absolutely gorgeous! Most pea coat silhouettes are far too bulky for my taste, but this one is quite elegant. I’m thinking of putting in an order, but I have a couple questions:
(1) Are there any issues with pilling? I recall some user on reddit mentioning they had issues with a PWVC cashmere/wool blend coat pilling badly.
(2) I have a 41″ chest with a narrow waist, but typically wear a M/40R/50 in almost all brands except for Italian ones where I’m usually a 52 and Merz where I’m a 6/L. The 4/M measurements look quite tight, but I think I’d be swimming in the 5/L (especially since I’m only 5’10”). Am I crazy to think I might be able to fit into the 4?
1 – none that I’ve seen, and I’ve worn it a fair bit
2 – I’d tend to size up if you’re unsure, as its cut a little slim. So probably a 5/Large
I do love the look of this, but as I have a shorter length peacoat for casual wear, this sees to similar and really what I’d like is an overcoat in a similar double breasted style for wearing with suits. You mentioned in a previous reply that these are already in the market, could you perhaps point to any examples as I have not found any? Thanks.
Appreciate the fast reply, they do look nice but don’t have the dramatic broad lapels I’m looking for, akin to a British Warm or greatcoat. I looked at Crombie and New & Lingwood but nothing appropriate. Any other good ideas?
When in late January do you expect shipping the coats for those of us who ordered in December? Looking forward to wearing it.
Hi. The latest is they should be ready in the middle of next week. So we then need to get them to the distributor and sent out. You should receive yours the following week. Sorry for the slight delay
I received the Bridge Coat mid December last year. A truly wonderful coat , versatile and a real pleasure to wear. Well done to both yourself and PWVC.
Do you use a clothes brush or lint roller on it to keep it free from other fibers?
Thank you Stuart, that’s great to hear.
I use a clothes brush generally
I purchased the coat and love the look/fabric/quality, but I’m questioning whether this cut works for my build; I’m concerned that there’s just too much fabric in the upper sleeves and back shoulders, even when worn over a suit jacket or thick sweater. The chest doesn’t feel particularly tight, but I’m skeptical that I could size down since the sizing chart indicates that there’s a 2.5″ chest difference between the 4 and the 5. Here are the fit pics:
It’s obviously hard to tell just from a photo, but it doesn’t look too big to me – even perhaps pulling a touch in the chest. I’d leave it as it is.
Just picked up my bridge coat at the post office and it’s really amazing, beautiful and feels great! But I also have a fit question for you, hope that is OK. I got the same size pw4 (medium) as you, I’m just under 6′ with a slim athletic build.
When I button it all the way up, inhale and maybe push my chest a bit forward it stretches a little bit in the chest buttons, but I’d say that’s OK, looks more or less like your picture here:
So that makes me believe I can’t really go down in size and measuring my chest it’s about 100-101 cm).
But then on the shoulders I have about 1-2 cm of the coat sticking out outside the end of my shoulder bone when wearing only a shirt under the coat. Is that how the coat is supposed to fit with a little extra “over hang” on the shoulders to be able to wear a sports jacket underneath?
Yes, exactly. If there were no extra there, a jacket would always struggle to fit underneath.
I hope you get many good years of pleasure out of it
I received my bridge coat several weeks ago. I initially received a small but had to exchange for the medium, which will be perfect once I have the sleeves shortened a tad. The return process was very easy.
The coat has already received lots of compliments. The sinewy curve of the buttons is striking and sets it apart. All that was expected. But the interior is really what impresses me the most. The color of the lining is perfect, and the interior pockets are more intelligently designed than any other coat I’ve ever owned. Instead of the standard interior pockets, the coat has two pockets right below the arm pits, which are easy to access when the coat is buttoned up. And the poacher’s pocket is perfect for holding leather gloves. Finally, the cashmere lining in the exterior pockets are soft to the touch and very comfy–perfect for keeping my hands warm on occasions in which it impractical to wear gloves.
Congratulations. I love all the PS products I’ve purchased so far, but this one is by far the best. Really outstanding value for money.
Lovely coat Simon.Hope to enjoy it for many years.
I recently came across a wool/cashmere raglan overcoat by Schneider’s of Salzburg.Excellent quality. Have you ever seen their wares at Pitti or in Milan?
Yes, regularly at Pitti. Never seen many stockists of Schneider’s though
I picked this up from PWVC over the weekend and absolutely love it. The quality of the materials is superb, and – i have to say – a real bargain at this price point. It’s not a cheap coat, but it is great value for money. I have a slim build but the medium was good for me and i find the fit to be flattering. It’s a little too large in the arms (around the bicep) so i would suggest reducing this down if this coat goes through further design iterations, at least from my perspective.
Simon, i hope that you and PWVC continue to produce this coat!
Thank you John, that’s so nice to hear. Nice point on the biceps too.
And yes, we will. I still have stock on the PS Shop site and we will both be carrying it this winter too
Encouraged to learn that your lovely edition of the Bridge Coat will be available for purchase again in late 2019. The last time the Bridge Coat was available, the size Large option quickly sold out. Just in case the size Large sells out quickly again (when the Bridge Coat goes on sale in the future), is it possible that you will accept deposits for future orders?
The Bridge Coat is actually already available – it’s on the site now, and is in stock in all sizes except Medium. It’s been that way since the beginning of the year.
We are getting a new delivery in a couple of weeks, which will refill Medium and top up some other low sizes too, but feel free to buy the Large anytime you want!
We do also operate a waiting list for all sizes or products that are out of stock. Just email [email protected] to be put on that
Thank you! Suppose I was confused because the Shop’s dropdown menu for the Bridge Coat size seemed the indicate that only Extra Small was available and the other size choices were greyed out. But now I see that I can actually select Large. Appreciate that.
Curious to know why a tailorable Peacoat doesn’t allow for (functional) buttoned sleeves. When you researched the traditional Peacoat for this collaboration did you ever see buttoned sleeves or were the sleeves always plain and buttonless? Cheers!
Ah, good feedback Robert thank you. I’ll look into changing that.
Pea coats generally don’t have buttoned sleeves, perhaps because the material is so thick that it would be hard to fold over
Hi Simon, this coat looks beautifully considered and well made, and I’m very tempted to buy one – especially now Private White are allowing preorders for Winter!
That said, I’m torn between this and a 3/4 length wool overcoat. Any plans to design the latter yourself? If not, who would you recommend for high quality RTW – Private White/Belstaff/Mackintosh/others?
Thanks, I’m pleased you think so. We do also have the coat in stock now in all sizes except Medium, and are running a waitlist as we’ll have those in in a couple of weeks
There will be a new collaboration later on this winter, but it will be in a raglan style – not sure if that’s what you’re after
Simon, I have several PS items including bridge coat, trench,valstarino,shirts and watchcaps and I love them all.
Can you tell us a tiny bit more about the raglan coat you have just mentioned- material, length and colour etc as I am looking for a new coat and it maybe something for me?
Dark grey Donegal wool, from the last Donegal spinner in Ireland… finishes just below the knee. Keep an eye on Instagram for images – launches October 2
This piece looks incredible! I am still hesitating between your version and the regular one though. Despite me being quite tall, 6.2 (189 cm), would you still recommend such a piece? (either your version or the regular one)
All the best,
Yes, I certainly would, especially because it’s longer than the regular and any other pea coat.
Simon, will you bring size Medium back in this winter?
We’re not getting more stock, but exchanges come back fairly regularly. Email [email protected] if you want to be on the waiting list
I did it. The Bridge Coat arrived today and I really like it. The sleeves will need lengthening (I’m 6“4 and ordered size 5) but that should hopefully be easy. The rest fits very well. Tight but well.
One thing I did notice though, is that it came with four hole buttons and only one instead of two jitter buttons. Now I might have looked too much at buttons (as you put it), but that somehow bothers me. It‘s one of those things nobody will ever notice, only you know. Has there been a change in the details since this is a new batch? Please just tell me you made some changes because after a while you discovered it is just better this way. I’m otherwise too happy with it 😉
Nice to hear Mathis.
Good point on the buttons – no, it was intended that way. Most people would never really ever use more than one jigger button. But you could add another if you ever felt like it. Much easier than adding the buttonhole!
Just came back from private white shop after picking up my coat after getting sleeves shortened! Just lovely! Lovely material, love the slimness, love the collar! Very warm! Fits almost perfect over the jacket and a bit too big over jumper. Very interesting that it each coat side has buttonholes and buttons!
I love the diagonal pockets! So much easier than horizontal! Poachers pocket will be very useful for gloves or cap! I can see this becoming my all time favourite coat easily!
Now the bad!
A bit annoyed with only one jigger button! Article says it’s 2 jigger buttons but comes with only one…
A bit annoyed that buttons are 4 hole instead of 2 hole. (And that’s just your fault for praising 2 hole buttons being more savile row style, otherwise I would not have paid attention)
Couple less than perfect buttonholes…
But my biggest annoyance was that some buttons were not sewn on properly. Couple buttons I can see thread coming out a bit(maybe nothing serious but I’ll still be going back to store to inquire) and one button was properly sewn on 2 holes and other 2 holes had 2 threads… Im certain store will put my mind at ease and I absolutely love the coat! And maybe I expect too much… But I kind of expect 800£ coat to be as near perfect as possible ….
Simon, Thank you for designing the Bridge Coat. It’s a truly stunning coat. I tried on a medium and a large and feel that I am in between sizes. Could you tell me whether this material will stretch out over time? If so, perhaps I should go with the somewhat tight fitting medium or do you think I should stick with the comfortable large?
It won’t change much over time Nigel. I’d consider what you will wear it over – eg a jacket and knitwear (so you’ll want a size that fits in between those two). Or just a jacket, maybe even just a shirt, and so on.
I wanted to purchase the bridge coat in XL. It is listed as out of stock on PS, private white lists it as available in some sizes including XL on their website, but when going to pay it then says out of stock. Are you planning to bring the coat back into stock soon? If not, what would you recommend for a close alternative (i live in San Francisco).
It will be back in stock, but not until next Autumn I’m afraid. Private White have a handful left across a few sizes.
I don’t think there’s anything similar really, which is why I designed it in the first place. But a normal pea coat would be the closest probably.
I’ve used the bridge coat extensively this season and it is really, really great! I’m starting to have a small problem now though, I’ve gained some muscle width over my chest so the coat is starting to be 2-3 cm too small over the chest. When buttoning the top three buttons (especially the two over the chest, not so much the top one on the collar bone) the cloth is really stretching and it feels restrictive over the chest.
So my question is what would be the best alteration for this? Is there fabric in the front/side seam that runs up form the pocket to the armhole so it can be let out there? Or would it be better to move the top three buttons on both sides a few cm closer to each other? (the rest of the coat still fits perfectly over the back, shoulders and waist)
There should be a little inlay in the side seams, about 2cm. Letting that all out should help. Make sure you take it to a good alterations tailor though, and tell them to raise any concerns at all
Thanks for your input, is the inlay you mention in the seam running from the hand-warmer pocket up to the arm hole or is it in the seam that runs from the belt up to the arm? Would this alteration not add more width to the back as well? (I’ve got a really good alteration tailor that is actually more of a tailor, making jackets and coats from scratch so I think she should be fully capable of doing this, but I’d like to get your opinion so I can have a good discussion with her.)
Should be the seam that runs up to the arm. And yes it will add a little.room in the back, but it’s a pretty small change
I have the same issue as the person above – trying to gain a couple of centimetres of room across the chest/torso with the Bridge Coat. I contacted Private White at Duke Street who suggested that they are reluctant to do the alteration locally and this would have to be done by the factory – and even then, there is no guarantee as they feel unsure about the strength of the side seam after letting out. Instead, they suggested moving the buttons in the front. I wanted to get your advice in this case – would you move the buttons or instead go to someone else for a second opinion on letting out the seams (Graham Brown or Pinnas & Needles?).
I don’t think anyone else would have a different opinion on the alteration, unfortunately. Often the people that made the coat know it best – the others wouldn’t know how much inlay or not there was, for instance
So I went ahead and got this coat from the PWVC website. The fit is perfect expect that the sleeves are a bit long, which I plan on shortening. However, shortening the sleeves means the cuffs are now about 0.5 cm bigger/wider, would this affect the overall aesthetics of the coat?
Also, I’m planning to order a heavier cashmere top coat with my tailor. I’m thinking single breasted/peak lapelled. But I realize this style is somewhat rare, any reasons for this?
No, I don’t think that would be a noticeable difference.
Peak lapels don’t look out of place on a single breasted coat, just a little stylised or flashier. Nothing wrong with them, though if you’re unsure I’d stick with notch lapels
Another quick question. What are your thoughts on lapel width on someone with a big head but a slight frame/narrow shoulders? (So basically a 140 lb version of Ethan Newton 🙂 )
On the one hand I like wider lapels as my face/head is as wide, this does not look out of proportion; on the other hand I feel like my shoulders/chest are overwhelmed by anything over 3 inches. What should my main consideration be when faced with a dilemma like this?
You need to find a compromise Joshua, and I’d imagine that will end up being a fairly standard width. Perhaps 3 inches, or 3 and a quarter. If there’s no easy way to flatter the body or not, keep it simple and move onto another area where you can
Would you consider designing a calf length DB—inspired by your Bridge coat and/or your Sexton long overcoat—for New York/Boston winters?
I don’t have any current plans to, no, sorry Jay.
Sexton did do a RTW version of the overcoat though
In a reply earlier in 2020 you mentioned that the Bridge Coat would be coming back into stock in Autumn: is that still on the cards, either from PS or from Private White directly? As I have a 48″ chest (barrel circumference is actually 120cm) I suspect I’d need a size 8/XXXL, which isn’t listed on the PS shop page. Any advice gratefully received.
Yes that’s still the plan, it should be here in the Autumn. We will be selling it, but not in that size. I’m not sure Private White will either, but you can ask them. They also do some made to order.
Thanks very much for your quick reply. I contacted Private White VC and received an email back this afternoon:
– PWVC confirmed that they will be making a “limited number” of the Bridge Coat in size 8.
– however, I also queried sizing, giving them a bit more info on my build and they feel that a size 7/XXL would probably be a better fit for me, even though the coat is a slim fit, because I narrow (a bit!) towards the middle. I also mentioned, in my enquiry, that I’d be unlikely to wear a suit or jacket underneath – which may have swayed their advice too.
If anyone else finds themselves in a similar quandary, I hope this info is helpful.
Love your content as always and I can’t stop looking at this jacket, even in the heat of summer. Do you have a more accurate time of the re-release ? Also I would love some assistance on sizing. I am 5ft 9.5” around 180lbs athletic build. I usually wear 32 in pants. I was thinking large would be my size as everyone has recommended sizing up, however when I reread your post, you’re much taller than me and was wearing a medium. Can you please give me some clarity? I would appreciate it! Thank you and can’t wait to wear it!
Looks amazing. Ready to pull the trigger, but worried about size! I’m 6ft 1, with an athletic build and a 42 inch chest (sometimes 41 inch, depending on how much time I get to spend at the gym). Seems like a size 5 would be perfect, yeah?
I would suggest a 5, yes, though I would also suggest comparing the measurements of the coat to those of something you own, to get the best idea.
We do offer free returns and exchanges of course, so you can also swap (or order two and return one)
Just following up for folks who are trying to zero in on sizing. Size 5 fit me pretty well. I’m 6ft 1, approx 210 pounds with a size 42 chest and an athletic (though not bodybuilder) build. The jacket ended up needing to be taken in a bit at the waist and in the arms as the sleeves were a bit too long and the taper didn’t really match my shoulder to waist ratio. That said, if I had gone any smaller, the jacket wouldn’t have fit should shoulders. All said, it’s a GREAT jacket. Extremely happy with it.
Again a sizing question:
Would you recommend a size 5 for 107cm chest at a height of 187cm?
And: are the bridge coats that you ship amd the ones that PW ships the exact same models? I ask as I saw a comment on the PW website mentioning the two hole buttons you mention in the introduction on permanent style, which supposedly were a little different in the eye of that very customer.
Thanks as always
To be honest, it’s a much better guide to compare the measurements we have to a coat you already own, than to go off height and chest measurements. Torso length varies, so does musculature, and arm lengths etc. So I would suggest doing that.
And yes, they should be the same models. I’m checking with PWVC on those buttons, but they should be the same and mine certainly have the two-hole buttons.
Last year PWC had some problems sourcing buttons so they went with four holes for the run I bought last year. Interesting thing is, i can’t recall article, but Simon recently mentions for holes as being more durable.
Ben said in our video that one cutter said he thought four was stronger, but others disagreed. I’ve never noticed a difference myself on
Thanks! Lovely coat anyway!
P.s. for about a week already chrome browser on iPad Pro “all threads” is just “looping?” certain amount of answers… I don’t know how to put it better…
Yeah, we’re aware of the issue Martins, it is being corrected. Thanks for highlighting it though
Hello, are Bridge Coats ordered from the PS site shipping yet? Recently placed my order and really looking forward.
Yes, they should be. Usually it takes 2 days or so to ship. Do email the support team if you haven’t heard anything – [email protected]
Received my coat and really love it. The fit is pretty much perfect, both over a jacket and without one, and the fabric is luxurious. Can you confirm that this cost is appropriate to wear with jeans and a casual knit, as well as over a sport coat and tailored trousers? Thank you, and thanks again for this unique and beautiful design.
Yes, it should work well over both. If you’re concerned about that kind of combination at all, go with smarter jeans like darker indigo ones, or even cream.
I’ve got a commission coming up in the next month that I’ll be placing with Joe.
Anyway, I’ve decided on cloth- but can’t quite get past the decision of a second peacoat (because they absolutely nailed it the first) versus a DB (similar collar, but with a two button fastening rather than three).
I thought I’d ask here because the questions I’m asking myself may be of use to someone else… and I don’t know the answers, but there you go.
Firstly, given the length, would you say that a peacoat would be friendlier appearance-wise to someone under 6 foot? I can’t remember precisely what was in the article, but I remember you writing about how the liverano DB gives a great impression of height despite the length of the coat which would contradict this.
Secondly & thinking of versatility, would you say there’s any difference to wearing a DB vs a peacoat open? Does the length/weight of fabric affect how it hangs, the pressure on the back of the neck etc given the lack of a fastening point around the mid-section?
I’d say that yes, generally a pea coat is more flattering on a shorter man. Long coats can work, but they’re riskier. They can drown you as well.
And yes, a pea coat doesn’t look anywhere as nice open as a regular DB coat does.
Thank you for the wisdom, as always, Simon 🙂
Private White recommends to size up for the Bridge Coat. Did you choose you regular size or did you sized up?
I chose my regular size. I think you don’t need to if you’re relatively slim, like me. If you aren’t, it’s worth considering sizing up. But do always look at the measurements and compare them to a coat you already have if you can.
Just for information, what size did you get? I have an 42″chest size but don’t have a coat to check the measurements and no option to go in a store to check. Thank you
A size 4, Medium
Any plans for restock of size 5 in the coming weeks? All sold out…
No, sorry, not until next year. Do email [email protected] if you want to be on the waiting list though – always worth it in case we get returns or exchanges
Thank you – will do!
A little late to the party but have just received my size 5 from PWVC after checking that PS wouldn’t be getting them back in for a while. I’m sure PWVC were sold out in all sizes so was gratified to find something, perhaps just a small run of their most popular size? I think a 4 would have been optimal (I’m a 40” or just over) but the 5 is lovely – I’ll have an inch taken off the sleeves and it bodily it will fit over any knitwear whilst still looking fine over a T-shirt due to the tailoring at the waist.
I already have a PWVC Peacoat in a 4 and I’d say this 5 is trimmer in the body. The Peacoat looks rather shapeless by comparison – I doubt it’ll be worn again.
As ever thrilled with the PS attention to detail!
Nice! Thanks for letting me know Lewis
2 more things to add; PWVC now showing no more availability of the 5, there was at least one left after I bought mine last week so somebody got lucky…
And lastly the cloth – the feel between the cashmere blend of the Bridgecoat Vs. the plain (but still beautiful) wool of the standard PWVC Peacoat justifies the price alone. It feels like it’ll last forever but is still soft and luxurious.
I have the size 4 and I find the arm holes to be too low. It’s way too low so that when I raise my arms, there are two boxes above my shoulders.
Is there any remedy for this? I would think a piece with this price should get a higher arm hole!
The size of the armhole doesn’t make it more or less expensive – to make or in the final price.
Rather, it’s a decision based on what fits the average to larger person (necessarily erring on that side to avoid making it unwearable for half of people) and assuming a certain level of physicality as well as structure of jacket worn underneath.
The bridge coat is also a little slimmer in the make than other outerwear pieces, so the movement in the shoulders might be to do with a close fit elsewhere as well.
I’m going to order a Bridge Coat for christmas, but as I live in Belgium, I didn’t want to make any mistake on sizing.
I’m a 40″ chest guy (who means 101 cm) and 5,74 foot tall (1,75 m) for 73kg-76kg, with an athletic physique, what’s size did you recommend a 4 or a 5, to have the same fit as on the pics showed on the article. This coat isn’t cheap and I didn’t want do any mistake.
Some customer are saying that a size 4 is perfect , when some others said the 5 is better.
Did you have the exact mensurations of the model showed in the pic and who is wearing a size 4 (M)
Thanks for your help it will be appreciated.
It’s me in the shots (thanks for calling me a model!) and my chest measures 39 inches, so I wear a 40 inch jacket normally. I’m 183cm, 78kg. I think a 4 is probably best based on that – but do compare the measurements to a coat you own if you can. It’s always the safest way to tell.
Oh, and there are free returns so feel free to swap them, or indeed order two and return one.
I’d like to buy one of the coats but (like many other commenters here) want to be certain of sizing, particularly as I’m in the US. I’m usually an XS (34″ chest, slim frame). However the garment measurements on this page are somewhat different to those on the PWVC Bridge Coat page (e.g. chest on a 2/XS is 96cm here, but 94cm on their site). Which should I go by – PWVC recommends sizing up – as I’d like to be able to layer under a thick sweater/suit. Thank you.
I’ll check why our measurements differ, but certainly 1cm on that kind of measure is within the bounds of normal variation.
Have you compared the measures to a coat you already have? That’s always the easiest way to tell
Just got my Bridge Coat today. Usually between a 48 and 50 in sport coats, 5’11”, just under 12 stone. Ordered a size 4 and it fits perfectly in terms of the shoulders and sleeve length. The coat is slimmest at the waist but fit well over a chunky rollneck and with an Armoury baby camel sport coat under it (separately). I understand there are 2 cm that can be let out at each side of the waist if I need to do so, but I likely will not. Material is a good weight, and I love the softness of the pockets. The coat is long enough to cover tailoring as promised, and I foresee extended use because of the versatility–it’s less formal than my longer polo coat so can be worn in suburbia as well as on walks in the country. The one detail I wasn’t sure about was whether I would like the additional buttons up toward the shoulder, and I find that I do! https://www.instagram.com/p/CIbvdgbskKp/
Great, and I’m sure very useful for others. Thanks
Coming late to the party I order to beat Brexit. I’m a 42 in Oliver Spencer, Hackett, Magee etc. I’ve ordered the large – size 5 – but I fit into the boxier PWVC as a 4, though comfortably snug in the pits and shoulders. Will the 5 suit? Cheers and happy Christmas
Probably Neil, but I would recommend checking the measurements against any coat you have at home, just to be sure. That’s always the best way to understand the fit
Hey Simon- Beautiful coat. The “in-breast” pockets are a great feature. Largely forgotten by modern tailors. Great for an iphone. I know because I requested my tailor put two of them in an overcoat I commissioned a couple years back. I found a vintage coat with such “in-breast” pockets and presented it to my bespoke tailor in Atlanta. I requested he duplicate the coat in gabardine and told him I wanted “…these pockets…” . I asked him what he thought of the pockets. He replied curtly “..those are glove pockets… originally on officer’s coats in WWII…” As you might surmise, he was an older tailor from Naples who is now retired. I believe these are best referred to as “glove pockets” unless you know a different history. Age has its gifts. And again, fabulous coat.
Really interesting, thanks Robert. That makes sense, as a diagonal, easy to stuff pocket for something like gloves
Thank you, Simon. Also for directing us to Trunk for Breton style t-shirts. 5 ordered in the bridge coat and a tweed fitted duffel coat in oatmeal with black/brown accents from Magee of Donegal has been bought for me as a gift for under the tree along with more John Smedley tees in Sea Island cotton.
The PS bridge coat is a stylish alternative to a Pea coat. I’ve got a bridge coat that actually is a bridge coat – U.S. Navy issue. Much longer (1-2 inches below the knees). Fuller body (it’s worn over a uniform). Epaulets. Belt in back. I replaced the gilt anchor buttons with antique coin looking buttons (I couldn’t find suitable bone/horn buttons). Goes with casual or business wear.
Are there going to be more made? You are out here f so many sizes.
Of the Bridge Coat? Yes, we do a new batch every year, sometimes two. What’s left here is just the remnants from last year.
We keep a list of all readers that are interested, though, and alert them when there’s stock. Email [email protected] to be on that.
The coat is lovely, a great joy to wear. I am tall and the length is on par with my regular jackets, so wearing it over a sports coat is a bit off. You advised against lengthening the jacket on account of the vent. What is the risk there, exactly?
The issue with the vent is that you have to recreate that construction, as you lengthen that area. There’s also not a lot of excess material to do so.
When I make a purchase in this price category, I value not only the product but the service associated to it and although the coat is a fine garment (a bit to tight all round) I feel very disappointing on the customer support received from Private White. When I first contacted them, the refused to make any modifications to the coat, until I sent them this article (where it says that the coat can be let out); they took almost three months for the repairs and when they finally sent it back, the buttons were all messed up. Furthermore consider that sending a garment for repairs or purchasing any item in Private White, will have an extra fee in your local customs due to the Brexit.
I’m very sorry to hear that. Assuming Hector is your real name, let me look into this, just so I know for my own interest, if nothing else.
Maybe it has to do with mail orders? When I bought bridge coat online and went to see them in person, they were more than accommodating to shorten sleeves (for free), couple wears later I noticed couple buttons almost falling off, and button holes being…. less than satisfactory for a 700£ coat… went back and they were more than happy to redo the buttons and fix buttonholes (again, for free), but I went to the store in person.
They have done with customers I’ve spoken to by mail order as well. So I don’t think that’s it Martins, but thanks
Speaking about the buttons: in my bridge coat the pairs of buttons are not horizontal. Was the intention of the design or a quality flaw?
Moreover, the internal button and two of the vent ones fell after a few uses. A bit disappointing.
Oh dear, sorry to hear that Daniel. The buttons should certainly be parallel too. Of course, that’s when it’s unworn. When worn your body will always shift them a little
I’ve loved the design and thought that went into the construction of the coast since it came out. After much careful measuring and discussion with Permanent Style customer service, I determined a medium is the right size and bought the coat (I live in North America). Unfortunately it was just right in most places but much too tight around my chest so the PS people recommended sizing up to a large. I had to order the large through PWVC as it was out of stock on PS. When it arrived, I was swimming in it, and had to rush return it before PWVC’s 14 day return window ended. All in all, ended up spending about half the cost of the coat on non-refundable customs (for two coats) and shipping. Expense aside, I was very sad not to be able to enjoy the coat.
Thanks very much. I would be delighted if this worked out somehow.
Sorry to hear that Niyash.
1 – Yes
2 – No I’m afraid the next run will be the same. It is slimmer that the other coats we have, but it’s a particular look that I love with that shape. I presume you also looked at the considerations in the post around alteration?
3 – Aha, now reading your third point. PWVV do offer alterations, yes, but we don’t. In terms of what’s possible, have you read the section at the bottom of this post? There isn’t much to let out though really – it wouldn’t make a big difference.
Hi Simon, thanks for your response. I definitely agree the lines of the coat are lovely – unfortunately, with such little leeway it limits the body types that it is suitable for. I did look at the alteration options, but didn’t see anything to suggest that around the chest much could be done. I don’t suppose the chest could be taken out by another 2 inches or so? It’s funny, it fits perfectly, if not a bit loosely everywhere else. I suppose i have a particularly broad chest.
I recall reading a comment somewhere about MTM or doing custom measurements for the coat. Is that something that PWVC currently offers/ something you’ve considered?
The construction, material and shape are all beautiful, and would be so nice if sizing could be made to work for a larger number of people.
No it couldn’t be taken out by that amount. I’m afraid the bridge coat is just a more particular style that some of the others, and isn’t going to work for so many people.
Yes, PWVC do offer a MTM service, so you could contact them about that.
Amazing wool/ cashmere fabric, may I ask where can I source this fabric? I would love to get my local tailor to make a coat out of it.
Thank you in advance!
I’m afraid you can’t, T. Most fabrics used by brands aren’t available for tailors to use, because brands buy their cloth in large volumes, as a one-off order. Only a small percentage of what’s available from any mill is kept in stock for tailors to use
Could some other coat be made to order by PWVC in this fabric, Simon?
No, I’m afraid they only do their own styles. It’s a large amount of work to create a new pattern for a coat, and not really economic for a factory to do
Simon, can you give any advice regarding altering the width of the sleeves as well? Can they be let out a little bit and how would it affect the overall structure and balance of the coat? I have noticeable wrinkles over the biceps, and I’m not even sure yet what causes them.
I’ll check, but I’m not sure they can be let out. You’re saying the coat is tight on your biceps? That surprises me as they’re not narrow
Simon, it doesn’t feel tight on the biceps, but there are just some strange wrinkles over them. I suppose, ideally the sleeves must look smooth from the back?
Perhaps ideally, but this isn’t a bespoke coat and the pitch of the sleeve is never going to be that precise.
Also, as it’s a loose and flowy coat the fit generally should be seen as more forgiving
Hey Simon, it seems Lock & Co doesn’t offer a suede cap anymore (or right now?). Do you know a good alternative?
I don’t I’m afraid, no.
Lock do still offer the Tremelo I think, though not in this colour
Hi Simon, i got reconnected with this coat for the first time in two years this month; it was stuck in China while i was stuck in Singapore (COVID-relayed border restrictions). It was such a pleasure to wear it again, so much so that i felt i should leave a comment. In particular, the fit and design are – in my humble opinion – spot-on and this really is a wonderfully designed coat. I have a few PS items and i feel that this remains the best. Thank you!
That’s so nice to hear John, thank you. And thanks for taking the time to leave a note
When do you anticipate a restock of this?
In September. There is a waiting list you can join from the product page on the shop site if you’d like to
Awesome looking coat, which I hope to acquire when it’s offered again. I noticed in one of the images you’re wearing the coat with relatively formal shoes (they appear to be Oxford lace-ups). Is the coat versatile enough for that, or in retrospect is that a bit of a stretch? (Not being critical here, except in the sense that I’m trying to judge how much I can stretch how I would wear this in an office setting.)
I think it’s fine like that – perhaps not with a suit, but with a jacket and trousers yes. Perhaps derbys would be better than oxfords there, but in a relatively casual colour like brown I think that’s fine too
Hi Simon – are some of theee trousers in a charcoal fresco? Or are all the green flannel in different light?
The shots with the sports jacket are with a charcoal worsted trouser, yes
Hi Simon – Just one question: Why not a peacoat in black? I understand that navy is more subtle but don’t you think black is versatile too? Thanks.
Not quite as much, no, particularly in a pea/bridge coat like this. I like black in many things, but for more classic dressing it isn’t as versatile in black.
Hi Simon, although I know that the Bridge coat and the Wax walker were made for entirely different purposes, could I ask, from your personal experience and view, which have you found more useful and versatile in London?
In London, certainly the bridge coat. But it is that bit smarter
Would the Bridge coat still be available at William crabtree to try on?
If not, my measurement for the shoulder for a sports jacket/suit is 48, and the chest and waist is usually 46, which is pretty tricky when I choose a size for the RTW jacket/coat. Would you suggest small or medium for the Bridge coat?
I wear medium for the PS Linen Harrington jacket and small for the A&S cotton travel jacket(As I remember, you own this too).
I still have the bridge coat on my never ending list, however I’m curious, given your leaning into slightly fuller cuts these days (along with myself and many others it seems) would you size up to a size 5 in the bridge coat now? Perhaps you’ve considered tweaking the fit for future iterations? Would love to hear your thoughts.
I’ve been weighing up my options, having now looked at many of the usual suspects in the workwear world for a peacoat (mainly Japanese makers to be honest) and while they’re all true to and expand upon the originals, there’s just something special about this Bridge coat.
Nice to hear CK.
No to be honest I wouldn’t size up – the bridge coat is meant to fit relatively slim through the waist and then accentuate the shoulders, more like a smart overcoat in fit rather than a raglan for example
Hello Simon. My questions in regards to the PS Bridge Coat are : what colour is it, looks like black? This is how I would want to style it with my Indigo Nigel Cabourn Jeans and with my The Real McCoy’s Washed Blue Jeans and with my PS Everyday Denim/Oxford’s Shirts and OrSlow’s/Big Yanks Indigo Chambray shirts with my Red Wing Moc Toe Boots in different leathers? Please let me know your thoughts and if my thinking makes sense? Thank you Simon 😊
The Bridge Coat is a dark navy, not black Amit. The combinations sound great, although the Red Wings might be a little too casual. This is a smarter version of a normal pea coat and you might want smarter boots
Anglo Italian dark brown desert boots then, the other option.
Yes, they’d be nice
Just some feedback for anyone interested in this coat. I ordered this and the standard Private White pea coat. The bridge coat is so much nicer – the fabric is softer, it’s more fitted and just feels in a different class. Standard private white pea coat has gone back for a return, I’ll keep this. Ps – i disagree with private white’s advice to size up. If you are fairly lean this is completely unnecessary.
Just some feedback for anyone interested in this coat. I ordered this and the standard Private White pea coat. The bridge coat is so much nicer – the fabric is softer, it’s more fitted and just feels in a different class. Standard private white pea coat has gone back for a return, I’ll keep this. Ps – i disagree with private white’s advice to size up. If you are fairly lean this is completely unnecessary. In summary this is a great coat.
Coat looks great. Would you recommend this coat for daily wear in NYC winters or suggest going with something heavier?
For those that own the XS, how would it fit someone 5’5, 135lbs?
For an NYC winter I’d want something heavier and longer really.
Hello Hello. I recently bought the Bridge Coat – absolutely gorgeous. I did need to size up to a 5. I am normally a comfortable 4 and as such I do find it a bit big on the shoulders. Would a good tailor or PWVC be able to chip / take in the shoulders by a smidgen (1cm maybe). Many Thanks Dom
Private White wouldn’t, and a tailor could but it would be a big job – something I’d only trust to someone I knew was very good, and didn’t mind spending the money to get done. It might not be worth it for a centimetre
Thanks Simom. I will heed to your advice.
Worth mentioning that I approached a local bespoke tailor (in Bristol) about having my Bridge Coat let out fractionally (I’ve put a little weight on thanks to COVID and lockdowns!), which is mentioned as possible on the product page; but having looked the job over they were concerned that it would be major surgery for limited results, there’s limited inlay available (and nothing to speak of on the half-belt) and it would be very easy to ruin the line of the coat. It’s such a sculpted piece that it doesn’t lend itself to major changes, and the payback probably wouldn’t work. We agreed not to go ahead in the end.