Introducing: The Rider’s Raincoat
About eight months ago we made the decision to discontinue our trench coat in favour of something simpler and subtler. A few conversations with friends had brought up the issue, repeatedly, of not being able to find a really stylish but understated, single-breasted raincoat.
I had one coat in my wardrobe that fitted that description, but it had been designed by Drake’s back in 2017. It had a lovely shape to the body, straight and clean, with a relatively large collar that framed the face nicely.
I wore it mostly with casual outfits, but it worked equally well for a knit and flannels too. The simplicity made it the coat I reached for on a warm but wet day in particular - it was the only one that felt right over something like a T-shirt and jeans.
So I began talking to the Drake’s team about bringing in back, as a collaboration. They were keen, which was lovely, and the result is the ‘Rider’s Raincoat’ we’re launching today, available on the PS Shop.
I called it the ‘Rider’s Raincoat’ because I knew from talking to the design team at the time, that the shape had originally come from a vintage horserider’s coat. That was what gave it the long, straight cut and high vent at the back.
It had been changed and updated of course, and in many ways this was symptomatic of why I liked the piece - it reflected one of my favourite periods of Drake’s, when it felt like so many parts of a traditional man’s wardrobe, from shetland sweaters to cord trousers, were being made contemporary again: made to be and shown to be relevant.
The material of the coat is a super-compact cotton twill, from an Italian mill that specialises in technical outerwear. It has a similar waterproofing effect to the Ventile we’ve used in the past, but it’s denser and sharper, contributing to the silhouette.
Although, over time I've found the material mellows and softens, rather like a dense pair of workwear chinos. One of the advantages of having worn this coat for many years is I can speak from a little experience.
There was one significant way in which I departed from my original, however, and that was the colour. Rather than go for a standard beige, I wanted a darker shade that felt more contemporary, and which I knew would work with a full range of readers’ outfits, from smart to casual, brown shoes and black.
I’m really pleased with the resulting grey/brown. As I’ve tried to show with these pictures, it works well with black and greys (and dark navy too) making it a great office coat.
But it’s also good with jeans, a T-shirt and a cap, as shown in the more casual outfit. As I mentioned in passing when we redid the trench coat, a good reflection of the versatility of a men’s coat is when it works with both black and brown shoes - it means it does smart and casual, on duty and off.
Even tan is nice against the coat, certainly in accessories. My beloved ‘chestnut’ tote bag from Frank Clegg is carried in images above, while a lighter, more English tan is shown in the alligator case below.
The material is highly water-resistant, both because of the dense weave and an immersive treatment (no spraying, no PFCs) that never needs to be reapplied. As we’ve discussed in the past, there’s always a trade-off between attractiveness of material and waterproofing, and no one commuting to the office really needs Gore-Tex. That’s for camping or hiking, when you’re out for long periods of time and it’s harder to dry out.
This dense twill has kept me dry even in heavy downpours - as we've had in London recently - even without taped seams. Again, it's nice to be able to speak from experience.
You can also button the coat up to the chin, use the throat latch if needed, and belt for warmth.
I personally wear the coat open, fastened with the top two buttons, or with just the second, depending on the protection required. Using those two upper buttons is particularly satisfying. The throat latch I rarely use, so in the pictures I’ve removed it and buttoned it inside the coat.
It is important to use the belt in some way. I’ve watched so many guys try on raincoats and think they’re too big in the body. The whole point of a belted raincoat is to cinch it with the belt.
It’s big in the body so it fits over everything, but most people don’t want that much of an A-line - so belt it around the front in the traditional way, or cinch at the back with a simple knot (eg over-and-under, twice).
And play around with it - cinch more and less, find what gives you some shape without being anything close to tight. There’s a lot to play with in a raincoat; it’s a fertile ground for ‘how to wear’ as much as what to wear.
Another reason I always liked this coat was the pocket set-up.
The angled hip pockets have a double entry, so you can put your hands in the outer pocket but also reach through to the internal pockets to get something. I tend to have things like a hat, a wallet or keys in those pockets, and can get them easily if needed, even in the rain.
But then there’s also a phone-sized pocket behind the fly front, like the Wax Walker. So you can more quickly reach a phone or something else.
That reminds me, one of the little style things I love about the coat is the big, wide fly front.
Something about its width gives the coat such character. It belongs in a group of design touches that includes:
- the dense rows of stitching on the belt
- the similar rows on the collar stand
- the reinforcement around the sleeve seams
- the zig-zags on the collar
- the sharp overlapping vent
- and the locker loop on the back
They're all little things, but they build up into a uniquely appealing design. And like the best menswear, they're all driven by function.
I can see some people disliking the locker loop, but I really like its personality, and like using it to hang the thing after a walk in the rain, perhaps on a hook inside the door of a pub. It would be too much on a complicated piece like a trench coat, but on this simple style it’s both practical and characterful.
We decided not to do a lining with the coat largely on economic grounds. Having one in the trench coat always made it expensive, and some readers had said that they’d have preferred to pay for just the coat and make it more affordable. I wanted to keep this as close to a thousand pounds as I could, and this was the best way.
Other things to note are that Drake’s are stocking the coat, so it’s available to try on in the London store. It will also be with them when they hold their pop-up in Paris this week, at 47 Rue de Montmorency, October 5-7. And it will be in the New York and Seoul stores early next week.
Of course, we always appreciate it when people buy from us and we will have it with us when we come to New York for our pop-up in mid-October, and the London pop-up in early November.
The coat is not part of the PS outerwear available to try on at William Crabtree, who are holding try-ons of all other coats through October.
The Rider’s Raincoat costs £995 plus VAT (£1195 in the UK) and is available to buy now on the PS Shop, in sizes XS to XXL.
Details:
- Outer material 100% ultra-dense cotton twill
- Tattersall lining in 100% cotton heavy shirting cloth
- Corduroy lining on collar and cuffs
- Sold-brass belt buckle
- Dark-brown horn buttons
- Removable throat latch
- ‘Pass through’ double hip pockets
- Phone pocket in the fly front
- Made in Italy
Sizing:
- Simon is wearing a Medium/38 (UK chest size, 48 European)
- He could also wear a 40 (it would just be a little more cinched in body)
- We recommend looking at the chest size and comparing to a raincoat you own (more than the shoulders or waist)
Size chart:
X-Small (34) | Small (36) | Medium (38) | Large (40) | X-Large (42) | XX-Large (44) | |
Chest | 56cm | 58.5 | 61 | 63.5 | 66 | 68.5 |
Shoulder width | 45.6 | 46.8 | 48 | 49.2 | 50.4 | 51.6 |
Hem width | 76 | 78.5 | 81 | 83.5 | 86 | 88.5 |
Centre back length | 116.5 | 117.5 | 118.5 | 119.5 | 120.5 | 121.5 |
Sleeve length | 63.2 | 64.1 | 65 | 65.9 | 66.8 | 67.7 |
Note: As with most garments, tolerance is around 1cm. Including measurements to the nearest millimetre does mean greater accuracy
Alterations:
- Not the easiest coat to alter, or one you’d want to change the style of much, but some changes are possible:
- Body can be shortened by a good tailor, but not lengthened (though given the length, hopefully not required by many)
- Sleeves cannot be lengthened, but could be shortened (same restrictions as with other coats with wrist straps: can only shorten a bit or would need to remove strap)
- Body can be slimmed through the side seams, but again wouldn’t recommend as would change the style, and you can cinch as much as you want with the belt
Wonderful coat! A nice combination of of both traditional, almost cartoonlike aesthetics and a contemporary sleekness. Well done! Unfortunately I spent almost the double last spring on Burberry coat which now feels like a most regrettable decision.
Would it be possible to see a shot with the collar down? Thanks!!
There’s the flat lay shot at the end of the article
just to clarify, thats on the shop page, not on this write-up.
That’s weird Zo, those images should have been on here as well. I’ll add them now
Done. Hope that’s better
Thanks!
Great raincoat. Looks wonderful. And probably much more versatile than the trench.
I guess that someone has to ask the question. With the exception of the belt. What is the main difference between this coat and the Ventile Mac from Private White. I am not asking about what is “best”. But just the main differences.
Well I haven’t worn the ventile mac, but the differences are pretty big for a single-breasted raincoat. The length is much longer, the body is bigger and cinches (unlike the ventile’s slimmer more contemporary fit). The collar is bigger, and most of the design elements I highlight in the piece are different, such as the belt, pockets and vent, the cord collar and cuffs
Thanks, I´ll have to think about it and maybe put it in the large order I am planning for when the undershirt is back in stock (quite soon I guess).
I have the Ventile Mac from Private White and whilst I love it, the collar is too small and doesn’t stand up nicely. And the inner pockets are such a joke, I don’t understand what they have been thinking.
Thanks Simon. How does this fabric compare to the Anglo-Italian Raglan Raincoat?
I haven’t worn it myself, but that it’s a nylon blend so a different approach – nice addition to have cotton added to a synthetic, but a different feel to 100% cotton
I’ve been waiting for this announcement before deciding what I need for my travel in Europe. I’ve a good parka for winter in Scandinavia and a light and breathable roll-up waterproof for July in Sicily, but need something for London and Paris for any time between November and April. The ventile trench coat with detachable lining had come to the top of the list.
.Are you discontinuing the trench coat? The new one doesn’t seem to have the same three-season versatility. With the lining removed the trench coat appears to be wearable comfortably later into the spring and earlier in the autumn.
Yes, the trench coat is being discontinued. But I wouldn’t say there is that difference – I wear this coat with a T-shirt underneath, as mentioned and shown, and it works well. The trench is a slightly lighter material, but being double-breasted wears just as warm
As a native Scandinavian (Stockholm, Sweden), I’ll just chip in with this unsolicited advice:
The need for clothes here depends a LOT on where you go, when, and what you plan to do. Winter in Stockholm rarely gets below -5 C during the day, and these days it usually goes above freezing every couple of weeks even in the coldest months (usually Jan-Feb). Usually winter is more soggy than freezing. If you go to the true north inland in the same time, you might end up with -20 C or worse, especially when you factor in windchill.
Of course, it also depends on your native climate. If you’re accustomed to Arizona or Singapore temps, anything below freezing can feel like a nuclear winter.
I am travelling to Stockholm in two weeks for the first time (I live in Copenhagen), and I was wondering whether I should prioritise a long overcoat or a long raincoat… I guess I will be walking quite a bit to get to know the city.
I could eventually travel with both the overcoat and the trench coat but if you had to pick one what would you pick?
Wow, that is gorgeous. Will be buying.
Regarding the other clothes you are wearing in the article, is that your grey t-shirt from Warehouse and dark grey cashmere crewneck from Colhays?
The T-shirt is actually our new Tapered Tee! It’s the sample, stock should be here fairly soon I hope.
Yes, dark grey cashmere crewneck from Colhay’s.
Seems a bit looser than the current iteration?
No, same body fit
Sorry Daniel, realise I misspoke on the knit, apologies. It’s actually a heavier cashmere from Dalmo, not Colhay’s
Oh dear – I was waiting for this but sadly it doesn’t fit my needs.
I love my PS trench to bits but find it works best casually and was looking for something lighter, single breasted and more streamline to wear in the city.
Never mind.
Ah well, yes I can see that
Hey Simon,
The reason I asked because it looked like the neck area was a bit different from Colhays.
Thought it was maybe a sneak peak at your new Cashmere Crewneck. Is that still scheduled for this month?
Ah no, sorry. But yes, that is due for later this month
I recommended Grenfell’s Campbell (made in London and great value at £595 or £695) yesterday but my comment seems to have been deleted.
I looked at that and thought ….Why did we stop wearing coats like that ?
We need Knee length coats !
That collar is truly beautiful but then I’ve noticed in all your ventures you get the collar right. Most retailers seem to think men don’t have necks !
You haven’t shown it worn over a suit/ jacket . Is it a case of you would not wear it like that ? I’m just thinking about shoulder fit .
Thanks Robin, I know what you mean. I think most retailers get scared of a collar with some character.
I didn’t but I would wear it like that, yes. I wear it with this 38 size too, though if you were concerned about fit you could size up – the nice thing is you can create so much of the body fit you want with the belt
I like the new coat, especially the colour, and it is very similar in style to the Hampton Mackintosh, £595 from Cordings. The latter has leg straps for riding and is made of rubberised cotton by Hancock in Scotland. It is quite heavy, probably too heavy for London in autumn, so a comparison with the yours would be very useful.
Thanks Gary. Yes, not much of a fan of the rubberised method of rain protection these days – I’ve had it in the past and it just doesn’t breathe
On the other aspects of comparison, this is closer in style but it really lacks all the points about character I go through in the article. There are the reinforced shoulder seams, the collar support, belt stitching etc, but the one thing that stands out to me is that broad fly front and visible stitching on it on the Drake’s version. I didn’t even notice this myself until a friend pointed it out, but it’s the kind of detail that really elevates the design
For that reason, rubberised cotton would not be my first choice either. However, it is a natural and practical alternative to synthetic waterproof fabrics which make me sweat. In my experience, very heavy rain soaks through even the best raincoats (including those made from Ventile) and waxed cotton jackets. If I was going up to the north of England or Scotland in winter, my choices would be the Cordings Mackintosh and a heavy tweed or Loden overcoat.
Looks like a great coat! Amazing work and such a pleasure reading trough all of the well thought out details. Would you mind sharing the name of the Italian mill who produce the fabric? It looks great.
I can check with Drake’s but I’m not sure they’d want to share that Max
Beautiful coat, and one I’m sure many people have been asking for, well done!
I’m on the fence about purchasing it, only because I currently have a raglan overcoat in navy and made of a high-twist, water repellant wool which I like (although I wish it had a collar as substantial as on your coat).
Do you think this grey/brown (looks almost taupe) colour is more versatile? And do you think it would wear warmer than a high twist wool (given cotton doesn’t breath quite as well)? Being from Sydney, it would be great to be able to wear it in summer showers.
I can certainly say it breathes well, given I wear it in warm showers as mentioned. The roominess of the body fit helps there too.
I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s more versatile than a navy, but it sounds like it could be a good partner to it, given the two would be quite different looks
Thanks Simon, much appreciated!
Hi Simon,
A great piece of design. The tattersall lining is a nice touch. The coat reminds me of something from Downton Abbey (in a good way) but just a touch more contemporary.
Well done.
Thank you Stephen
Just one point you may wish to do a more straightforward back shot. In the mage, side on of your head a shoulders the loop appears to protrude a fair bit, so it may be useful to see what it actually looks like. Just a thought.
Sure, thank you. That loop keeps fairly flush unless you use it (as I do)
Can one spot clean this material?
E.g. I found that Ventile in practice not only feels plastic-like but also attracts dirt rather quickly. Those spots just became larger if one didn’t take the jacket (a Private White Harington in my case) to the dry cleaners immediately. Ventile was a disappointment.
No such problems with an old Grenfell and a 10 yrs old Burberry.
Lovely rain coat, was looking for a Mackintosh that has some good updated designs, but yours certainly fills a gap in the market,
Thanks Burt. Yes you can certainly spot clean it
Could this coat be worn with khakis since its darker than the traditional beige?
Yes, with a beige chino it would certainly be good and with most colours someone would call khaki, until it’s essentially the same colour. (Feel free to send an image of the trousers you have in mind if that’s helpful.)
can you advise how the fabric handle/drape compares with the PW ventile coats and Mackintosh rubberised coats, for example? and why did you decide against taped seams?
It’s a little in the piece – when I talk about the body it has, and the sharp line, but how that wears in over time, rather like a dense workwear chino.
It’s nowhere near as stiff as a rubberised Mac and feels much more natural, comfortable to wear and easy.
Compared to ventile it’s a little thicker but has that same nice cotton feel, but wears in a bit more and softens, as described, because it is a little thicker.
Taped seams didn’t feel necessarily given how water-resistant I’d found it, and I wanted to keep the cost down any way I could.
Looks great and very versatile. I really like the lining being tattersall, a nice additional nod to it being a rider’s coat.
A very nice piece. Similar to chinos, a raincoat feels like one of those traditional garments that ought to be everywhere but prove maddeningly difficult to find in practice.
“Can I really afford to get another brown coat…”
Is the question I’m asking myself right now. I’ve been looking for a new single breasted raincoat for over 2 years now. You are right in that the options aren’t that abundant or at least those options that peak my interest. I pretty much made up my mind to get Grenfell Gampbell but decided to wait and see the final launch of this coat.
Details I like on this Riders raincoat are: the strong collar that adds to the style and character in an handsome way. Cord detail on collar is a nice contrast and visual interest, without it the coat might seem a bit bland. For those with good physical build the belt is a good option to have. Colour is as versatile as any, maybe only topped by navy depending on wearers lifestyle. Knowing that no PFCs are used does add to peace of mind. Finally I wouldn’t consider a coat that ends above the knee so the length is great.
Personally I feel not having a liner is hardly a dealbreaker, it’s of course subjective but you can usually just layer and when you start wishing for liner it’s already time to bring out the wool coat.
I also like the set in sleeves but wonder if these looked better if these were more defined and stronger, right now it seems like a bit of a mix of raglan and set in sleeves.
This coat is something I’d envision Ryan Gosling to wear in one of his films.
…. but the truth is I already have too many brown coats. I’m going to try my luck with Campbell in sage colour and the more generous classic fit. I hope it won’t end up being too much of an A line and too roomy for modern sensibilities.
Interesting difference in price for this coat between PS shop and Drakes site, is this the reflection of cost of operation you often mention in comments Simon?
Thanks m, and lovely to hear your thoughts.
No, we just don’t add the VAT until checkout – as most customers are outside the UK and their taxes vary
Just to clarify, when buying from UK an EU customer has to pay additional import taxes even if the origin of item is EU (for example this coat is manufactured in Italy)?
I was under the false impression because DHL hasn’t charged me anything extra for the few purchases I’ve made since Brexit. Just the UK price + VAT + minor charge.
If you’re in the EU, your country’s relevant VAT will be added at checkout. But there are no import duties (separate things).
Also, we ship DDP to the EU, which means you don’t pay the minor charge to DHL either.
Congratulations, Simon! This looks wonderful.
You mention reaching for this garment on a warm but wet day. By warm do you mean around 21C/70F, or even up to 26C/80F?
I’d say 20 or under probably, but I’m not sure it’s ever raining and more than that until you’re somewhere more tropical
Thank you!
Great coat Simon! May I ask what’s the width of your chest at present and how does the large (42) look on you in comparison? Would it really work for you? Not too bulky in the chest?
I have a 39-inch chest, and no I wouldn’t wear the 42, I’d only size up to the 40
Sorry I meant the 40 (large). Not on the edge of being too bulky in the chest? … Oh and did you shorten the sleeves on the medium you are wearing? Thanks
I mean there’s always going to be a little bit of compromise – a T-shirt is never going to fit the same way as a big tweed jacket, but no I could wear both. I find I’d rather have a jacket a tiny bit tight though, and have this easy over a T-shirt or knit, as that’s what I wear it with a little more
Oh and no, I didn’t shorten them
Great coat but i find it very difficult to fit in a raincoat since i alway look like a dwarf in them. It would be interesting to see it on a shorter man than you since long coats fit more to taller people. By the way what brand are the brown suede shoes ? They look very nice.
Well, not too hard to alter but then also, there are more short raincoats around generally so hopefully not too hard to find.
They’re my Saint Crispin’s chukka boots
It would be helpful to know, how tall are you?
6 foot
Great coat. Let’s talk accessories. Is that a Frank Clegg Tall Tote. And, I assume a PS watch cap?
Their large working tote, and yes PS watch cap
Hi Simon, will the Rider’s Raincoat be available to try on at the October NYC Pop Up? Also, do you know if Drakes will carry the raincoat at their NYC store? Thanks!
Yes it will be in the pop-up, and yes it will be in the Drake’s store from next week (mentioned towards the end of the piece)
Congratulations, Simon. I especially like the colour.
A classic much lighter beige harrington jacket from PWC I have did not prove as versatile, because many of my trousers/chinos are essentially the same colour and, in addition, I find the colour combination dark-bottoms lighter-tops generally not as good looking as the other way around. Your dark-khaki / grey-brown colour avoids that with most trousers.
Nice to hear, thanks Markus
The beloved ‘chestnut’ tote bag must be perfect for carrying a laptop in the rain 🙂
Weirdly, I’ve never had a problem with that. If it was really pouring down, I’d put something across it to cover it, but most of the time the top is sufficiently closed that it’s not a problem. If it was absolutely pouring down, as well, I might well take another bag anyway
“it reflected one of my favourite periods of Drake’s, when it felt like so many parts of a traditional man’s wardrobe, from shetland sweaters to cord trousers, were being made contemporary again: made to be and shown to be relevant”
Interesting. Who do you think is doing this well these days?
Great colour for the coat, by the way. I’d love a pair of chinos in that colour for the same versatility reasons.
Thanks.
I guess it’s many of the brands we talk about most often, eg Rubato
Would you advise someone who is five foot eight to wear a coat this length?
It would be a question of personal style, but I might have it shortened. Nice thing is you can always try it for a few weeks and see which length you prefer
Looks nice, Simon. Is this coat planned for just a single run or will it be an ongoing thing like your other items?
Hard to say right now, we haven’t thought about that. But I would expect it will be an ongoing thing probably, in this colour or another
You have another coat headlining on the Private White website today too. Amazing achievement for someone who worked for the FT and set up a blog. Good luck with the new coat!
Thank you Alex.
Yes that’s the grey donegal, available from us as well
There have been a few comments on the relative merits of Ventile and a Mackintosh. I have both and they are both very useful in the appropriate situation. I have worn my Ventile Balmacaan (from S.E.H. Kelly) in rainstorms in London and Paris and it is not only stylish but very effective. On a trip to Scotland I loved the style of a shorter Mackintosh and bought it. On the way back the hotel I had extreme buyer’s remorse; it didn’t breathe at all. I berated myself for buying an expensive rubber jacket. But time tells. When the weather is really bad, cold and windy and pouring rain, nothing gets through the Mackintosh. My wife and I had a walk on the beach in New England in weather like that, and her raincoat gave up the ghost, but I was cocooned in my Mackintosh, warm and dry all the way back to the car.
Been waiting on this one for a while! Well done. If I am a 6 in the donegal overcoat, is that a Large or XL in this coat?
Still an XL I would think – the chest measurement will be a little bigger, as this is a little more A-line but then is cinched to taste
Hi Simon, I have a question about sizing. I wear the XS in the Donegal Overcoat (grey herringbone) which is the equivalent of a size 46 and has a chest measurement of 50.5 (I’m somewhere between a size 46 and 48 depending on the maker). The size 46 equivalent in the Raincoat is a small but should I get the XS which still has a chest measurement which is bigger than my Donegal Overcoat? Thanks!
Hi Guy,
Yes I would expect the chest measurement on this to be a bit larger than on your donegal, given the cut. So get the XS
Thanks for confirming, Simon
This looks super. One thing I am interested in which you alluded to slightly when talking about 2017-era is your view of the brand’s evolution. Personally I still continue to love what they do but it seems some commenters on the site on other pieces aren’t as enamoured of the more preppy or even streetwear direction of the last few years and the visitors to the shops do seem to skew younger (and wealthier given current prices!). I guess all brands do evolve or die but given how important Drake’s seemed to the readership (so many posts and even awards on it a few years ago) would be interested in your thoughts.
Sure, I have commented in the past but can do something fuller
This coat is madly flattering on you, Simon.
You’re very kind, thank you
Hi Simon, congrats on finally bringing this out! It looks great — I especially love the lining — but unfortunately isn’t realy what I need in a raincoat. I was actually hoping to one day afford a PS Trench in navy but I’ll have to look out for pre-owned now.
Finding long enough raincoats at all has been really difficult as you have expressed here. The colour (navy/dark blue) and length have become more important to me than the details.
Does you know of any DB models that go to the knee or below besides the PS and the Burberry Heritage line? Both are lovely but of course very expensive options. I’ve looked at the Private White Ventile Mac, the Cordings Hampton, and Stutterheim as well, but that’s getting further away from the initial goal.
Because I live in an already very underdressed but very rainy city, I’m considering abandoning my classic raincoat aspirations altogether. If anyone has advice to throw this way I’d appreciate it.
In the meantime, I’m really looking forward to the forthcoming PS overcoat!
Thank you Dante.
I’d say always keep an eye on Ralph Lauren as well. You pay more for style there, less for quality, but the style is usually better than the more traditional makers
The only advice I can throw is to go second hand, I picked a 90’s Burberry DB trench for little more than 200 euro on eBay and I am quite happy with it.
I can add, do not rely on the sizing, but also look at the actual measurements that the seller posts, or ask for them if they are not there.
For a navy trench you can also take a look at this Al II coat from Coherence, it’s probably as good as it gets for raincoats. Unfortunately availability is limited, maybe you can find one in Asia, heres size S in EU:
https://www.beige-habilleur.com/en/clothing/2152-al-ii-trench-coat-navy.html
For anyone still hell-bent on one of the old model PS Motor Trenches, I’ve been in touch with PWVC regarding this. They are, reportedly, willing to make archival pieces (like the coat in question) as a bespoke option, provided that they have all of the components to do so. This also means that you can have it made in any colour that they offer. The downside is the premium that they charge for bespoke, which is retail + 50% for stock sizes, or retail + 75% for something made with your own measurements.
i can recommend the program (I had them make me a bucket hat to match my olive trench over the summer), but I think that you may need to be a Ventile enthusiast to justify the price.
Hi Simon,
Lovely coat! I will be buying.I actually popped into Drakes yesterday to try it on but they didn’t quite have it yet! The sizing looks fairly generous from the photos considering you are wearing a size 38 which i would consider more of a small than a medium. Does it fit true to a 38?
Thanks,
Chris
Good point Chris. I could wear a 40, as mentioned, but I prefer a 38 and if in doubt I’d say size down there
It looks very tempting. Could you wear it while cycling in the city – possibly with the belt closed?
If your chain was covered, so there’d be no oil around, perhaps yes. Unfortunately short jackets are always easier for that though
This is such a useful piece, but at 194cm tall I worry that it will come up a little short on me, do they do MTM?
No, sorry. It’s probably not much consolation but I don’t think you’ll find longer out there
Hey S,
I think you’d be fine with this one. I’m 196cm and own Simons Donegal Tweed Overcoat and it looks great. This one – atleast from the comments I read – should be even longer than the Donegal, so I wouldn’t worry.
@Simon: what a beautiful product again! I… must… Resist… It’s a beautiful piece but given that I already own the Donegal Tweed and it hardly rains over here in Germany, I’m having a tough time justifying the investment. Oh well, maybe the second iteration (if there will be one)
Thanks Felix. Certainly if it goes well, yes
Never mind the coat! Where’s the bag (in the photo) from? 😁😁😁
Frank Clegg – article here
Would be great with a hoodie when it actually pours as H. Love the design..I missed out on the drakes city raincoat a while ago..still bummed it’s unavailable and similar design never came back
True, a hoodie works well
attached to the coat…do a on/off hood next version please
Thanks, but I really don’t like hoods style-wise with a coat like this
Hi Simon- the coat is beautiful. It has a bespoke simplicity along with a rich color. So well done!
Oh thank you Jay, that’s lovely
Hello, Simon — It’s a gorgeous coat. And sorry if I’m missing something, but in your article you say “we decided not to do a lining”, yet the coat appears to have a lining?
Sorry Nathan, I meant a removable warm lining, like a wool or cashmere that you can button in and out. The previous trench coat had that, which is why I mentioned it.
Any chance if a ‘how great things age’ for the drakes one? Would help get a better picture of the coat as it comes across a little stiff/new in the pics. Thanks!!
Nice idea, thanks
Very nice. Always thought you looked a little ridiculous in those dramatic trenches but this is much cleaner.
Love it. Just purchased. When are the crewneck sweaters coming?
A couple of weeks
I think the wear point is absolutely key. I have a gieves and hawkes pea coat style rain coat (so a shorter one than you designed). It had a lovely stand up collar, but sadly not any more. It’s now completely flat, and I find it a bit lifeless now. Anything I can do to perk it up?
Sometimes it helps if you hang it in the closet with the collar up, even buttoning up the front too, to keep it that way?
You can also press it (iron it) if you feel happy doing so, but in the end if it’s not made and cut to sit up all the time, it will never do so for that long
You have a much better photographer than Drakes. The coat looks gorgeous here but is quite ugly on the Drakes homepage. I just ordered one and it’s a bit cheaper on your homepage. Even including postage which is free on Drakes due to the high price.
We actually used the Drake’s photographer for this one! Perhaps they just need to use it more. Thanks though Carl, it’s going to Sweden for you right? I would guess the price difference would be largely which currency converter is being used
Yes Sweden. Its a bit over 17300 kronor incl postage from PS and 19300 with free postage from Drakes.
Hmm, OK good to know. Thanks Carl
I think the problem is Drakes currency converter. The price difference is much lower in pounds.
Yes in pounds we should be the same (it’s just our taxes are added at checkout)
PS Rider coat is £995 + VAT (20% for me). PS would bill me 1385€ + ~20€ shipping. Drakes would bill me 1600€ ( £1383 ) VAT included and with free shipping. For UK customer the Drakes price is £1195 ( 1391€ ).
Only way Drakes price makes sense for me is when we consider EU import tax of 12% for clothing of this type. I’m not entirely sure if this tax gets added to items of EU origin that are ordered from UK but I personally haven’t had to pay it before.
I think in this case it makes a lot of sense to order from PS instead of Drakes for EU customers.
In the pictures the coat (in medium) looks the same lengthwise as the Donegal coat on you. But it is actually a lot (over 8 cm) longer, isn’t it? The Donegal in medium is good for my height at 5.10. But over 8cm longer would be a dealbreaker sadly, since you say the shortening is not the easiest.
It is longer, but then I also lengthen my Donegals (not in the pictures on site, just afterwards).
Shortening is possible to be clear, and certainly the easiest thing to change. Just not as simple as a plain wool coat. A good tailor should be able to do it no problem.
Thanks. I have a 39-40 inch chest and the Wax Walker and the Donegal are good for me in size medium. But the chest size of the raincoat seems really big at 61cm (bigger than the Donegal coat in large). Would you advise to size down to a small?
I wouldn’t, no. It sounds like we have the same chest size and wear the same in other two, so I wouldn’t. Bear in mind quite a bit of that will be cinched in
Nice looking coat. The pocket flap seems to be parting company with the body of the coat. Is this a likely problem with wear or a construction flaw?
No, that’s intentional Simon – that’s a pleated attachment of the pocket, allowing it to expand and fold flat again
Ahh. See it now. Very nice – fantastic attention to detail.
Yes the coat is full of them, maybe the think I like most about it
An Instant purchase for me given the recent weather in London shows no sign of letting up!
Mine arrived yesterday and you’ve done a fantastic job Simon. Fabric & cut are wonderful, with the colour just a touch darker than I’d imagined. I went for a size XL, same as my Donegal and the fit is bob on.
I’d love a “how to wear” article, perhaps across a range of body types/heights. It would help to exhibit the array of options on styling for a coat like this and how subtle tweaks open up this coat to a range of readers.
Thanks Adam, and certainly I’ll do something later in the year.
Is there any specific styling you’d like to see advice on? Eg formalities, specific items, ways of belting
Yes, certainly formalities and belting would be very interesting. My default will almost certainly be dressed down, cinched at the back, with a cap, but keen to see other ideas.
Looking forward to the 75% chance of rain on Wednesday to put the coat through its paces in the mean streets of London!
Nice!
Very well executed coat. Good proportions and colour, but sadly not for me. Just not the sort of style I typically prefer in a raincoat, and the lack of a removable liner makes it less appealing as well. Reading about the fate of the trench is unfortunate though (makes me glad I was able to get my hands on one earlier in the year). Was there any specific reason for it being discontinued? Also, are any of the other products currently on the chopping block? Or are the other current PS collaborations likely to stick around for a while?
The trench had run for a good few years, and we felt most people that wanted one had got their hands on one. Also, we’re not big enough to stock more than one raincoat really, and I wanted to make something simpler that would perhaps appeal to a broader range of people.
We usually flag up when things are going to be discontinued – eg the everyday denim – in the product update articles.
Hi,
I ordered this last week but it is yet to be shipped. You are usually very quick so I wonder if there is any trouble. I have emailed your support without getting an answer.
Best
Hi Carl,
Don’t worry, I’m sure it will be, we aren’t having any issues. Bear in mind no one (support or shipping) is working at the weekends, and new shipments often have a little delay as so many orders come in at once.
Thanks
Ok,
Thanks
Beautiful coat and beautiful charcoal sweater. Is the sweater from Rubato or A&S?
Neither, Colhay’s. And thank you
As above, sorry it’s Dalmo, not Colhay’s
Hi Simon, this is such a lovely jacket, I’ve been already enjoying wearing it!
Also, the cloth of the grey trousers looks interesting, are they flannels?
Many thanks,
Jack
Oh good, lovely to hear it Jack.
They’re actually high-twist wool, the Spring Ram bunch. It’s towards the scratchy end of the high-twist spectrum, but great texture
The coat finally arrived today and it is lovely. The cloth is a bit stiffer than I thought but I guess it will soften up in time.
I like the belt and I would almost call this coat a “semi-trench” as the collar, length, belt and “swag” reminds more of a trench coat than a typical modern raincoat.
Apologies if this has been covered – are the pockets lined / hand warming (like the old Drake’s iteration)?
No worries – the pockets are lined with the same tattersall shirting as the interior of the coat
Is Ventile—or similarly waterproof woven cotton—available for tailoring?
Also, at some point in future, please consider doing a guide to bunches of waterproof fabrics, eg Loro Piana System.
Nice idea, thank you.
Generally no, Ventile and fabrics like it aren’t kept by the usual merchants to sell by the metre. But sometimes tailors can source if they have a connection. Not a material you’d necessarily want to tailor though (eg very hard to hand sew)
Dear Simon, may I ask you if you would wear this coat with corduroy trousers, e.g. the black ones you have? Doesn’t the corduroy collar makes it tricky? I‘m considering having a brown (with some grey a and black in the weave) wool field coat made and I think it would look great with a black corduroy collar. I’m somehow bothered by the idea of wearing it with corduroy trousers because of the collar, even though the coat would work well with them otherwise. I never liked double corduroy look. Maybe the collar is just a detail (even thought quite prominent) and since there will be full body of the coat between the collar and trousers, it doesn’t really matter that much? Would different wale also help? Thank you.
I’d say it’s just a detail, yes, it doesn’t matter, especially if they’re a different colour. Have the collar in a finer wale too if you want to be on the safe side
Thank you.
Hi Simon – I was in at Drake’s and it seems like these have completely sold out. I had intended to wait to see them at your pop up in order to purchase, will they still be there / in stock?
We have one size run that has just come back from New York, then more in small and extra small.
The plan is for the size run to go on sale in the next couple of days I think, and then have whatever is left over at the pop-up
Hi Simon,
Any idea if this one will be re-stocked, and if so, any time soon?
Thank you!
Not until next Autumn I’m afraid Michael
Thank you!
Is the small still available? Says so but page looks inactive
Yes it is, the only size left (until an Autumn restock).
How does it look inactive?
Mr Crompton, how are you? I want to ask your opinion on whether vulcanized cotton gabardine jackets age and soften nicely.
Thank you,
Murano
Vulcanised cotton is not my favourite – I used to wear it and I generally found it too stiff. It can soften a bit, but it’s always going to have a bit of that cripsness
Simon, where are your jeans from in this article?
Rubato
It is hard finding coats or any garment for the top half of my body to fit me, as I’m tall and slim, and have broadish shoulders but flat chest. Do I buy medium and suffer from slightly tight fit in the shoulders, or buy large and end up looking like = to quote Jimmy from Quadrophenia – a ‘fucking rent a tent’?
I’d go large and either get a style where you can cinch the waist with a belt, or have the body slimmed a little by a tailor
Hi Simon,
I’m looking to upgrade my raincoat this autumn. The Rider’s Raincoat is probably the nicest I’ve ever seen, and the spec and features are everything I would want from a coat like this, but I’m struggling with fit and sizing. I’m 5’8”, and the longest coat I currently own is 39.5”. I believe I could go 2” longer than this, at most, without looking silly, meaning I would have to shorten either the size 40 or 42 Rider’s by 6” or so (I tried it on in Drake’s to check the fit on the chest and shoulders).
I can see from older comments that shortening *is* possible, but my question is, do you think shortening by as much as 6” would really jeopardize the proportions? It feels like a lot… Secondly, the buttons situated towards the bottom of the coat, front and back, would probably need to go or be moved higher – any thoughts on that? And thirdly, if I decide to go ahead, is there somewhere in London you would recommend for this particular material and type of garment? Again, I’ve checked the older comments – one day I would love to have “a good tailor” or two I could easily call to mind, but I’m not quite there yet…!
It’s such a thoughtfully-designed coat, and a style (raincoat) that I’ve never had altered before, that I’m treading a bit gingerly as you can see! I would be a lot more confident with a traditional wool overcoat as I’m familiar with how they look on me and with having them altered at my local alterations place (who have said they wouldn’t be comfortable altering a coat like this).
Many thanks!
Hey W,
One easy thing is, you wouldn’t be able to move the buttons. You can’t change the position of the buttonholes.
Then, six inches is a lot but I think it would be possible, and not change the look too much. I’m not sure what chest size you are, but hopefully a 40 will work.
For the alteration, I would go to the Valet in London. We have covered them previously.
Hi Simon,
Thank you so much (belatedly) for your response. I’ve taken the plunge and placed the order for the new beige…can’t wait to get it! I think I will wear it a bit before making any decisions re alterations; reassurance that it *could* be done, and having some idea of where to go for that, was enough to tip me over!
Many thanks!
Nice, lovely to hear
Dear Simon! Did you ever handle vintage Burberry rain coats, 100% cotton, made in England? Any thoughts on the quality? How do they compare to the fabric on this Rider‘s coat?
I have had them, yes. They were a little thinner but the old ones were great quality
With old ones you also mean from the 80s? If you had to pick one would you go for a DB or a SB version from them? Is it fair to say that your love for DB trench coats has diminished in recent years? (I was thinking about getting the classic DB and removing the epaulettes.)
Yes I do.
I’d go for a DB probably, still love a classic trench coat and the SBs were often a little plain and dull
Thank you. Is removing the epaulettes a bad idea? Just to take the edge off a tiny bit.
No I think that’s probably a good idea
May I have the detail of the suede boots please ? Thanks
They’re Saint Crispin’s, originally covered here