Introducing: The PS linen overshirt
For a long time, my favourite linen overshirt has been an old model from Drake’s - readers will have seen it previously here, and it’s been worn continuously and lovingly since.
One of the reasons I liked that model was that it had just two chest pockets, with no hip pockets.
The inclusion of hip pockets - as well as other design details, like epaulettes or bellows - always pushes designs towards the Safari jacket for me, which is not the subtle or modern look I want.
After Drake’s discontinued the design, I tried the ‘Valerio’ overshirt from shirtmaker Luca Avitabile. This actually improved on my old favourite, because while there were only two visible pockets on the chest, two side-entry pockets were hidden in the same piece of material, just below.
This seemed to be the best of both worlds. The design was outwardly simple, but there was a pocket at the waist if you ever did need more.
Still, there were a couple of points that I wanted to change on Luca’s design, and so I asked him to make me a bespoke one with these tweaks.
As has often happened in the past, this led to us collaborating on a ready-to-wear version, which is what is on sale on the PS Shop today.
The main design change I made was to enlarge the size of those breast pockets. Because nice as they were, the shape was rather shallow and wide. It wasn’t big enough to accommodate a mobile phone, and even with a small wallet the horizontal shape was rather counter-intuitive.
It took us a few iterations to get this right. The pocket couldn’t be too deep, or it would start interfering with the side-entry pocket below; but it needed to be large enough to hold most mobiles.
In the end we settled on 13cm wide and 17.5cm tall, which seems to fit all but the biggest phones.
The other change was fabrics.
I’ve found it difficult in the past to find the right linen in ready-to-wear overshirts. Even the bespoke one I made with Budd back in 2014 proved to be too soft and not have enough body.
The issue I had with some of Luca’s ones was colours in the Summer and finish in the Winter.
The wool ones, for Winter or at least Autumn, use a worsted that is too shiny and smooth for my tastes. The linen Summer ones, on the other hand, come in two shades that are too strong - a mid-blue and a bright tobacco - while the navy and olive use a heavier, hopsack linen.
These might seem like small differences, but I find material is absolutely crucial in an overshirt, given that’s all there is. It’s even more important than with a shirt, as it has to hang and drape nicely too.
For our overshirts, therefore, I used the same Irish linen as the two bright colours, but in a classic dark navy and deep dusty brown.
These two are the easiest, most useful colours of Summer overshirt for me.
It’s easy to be attracted by lighter or brighter colours, but as you’re unlikely to have a whole wardrobe of these (unlike sports jackets) they do need to be versatile. And dark layers on top are more useful Summer trousers are more likely to be pale.
One reader already asked which of the two I consider to be the most useful.
To be honest, I think they’re just different. I find I wear navy the most, but it has the limitation of not being good with navy chinos or shorts. Brown is definitely better in that regard, but still I find I like and wear navy more.
The image above is taken from our recent shorts article, and shows the brown overshirt effectively. That dark, dusty shade is particularly nice with khaki, white, grey and cream.
And then below, the navy is pictured with a slightly smarter combination: a chambray shirt and white-linen trousers.
White trousers with navy is immediately quite smart, showy, perhaps even redolent of the Riviera. But it’s toned down by the texture and softer colour of the chambray.
A navy overshirt can of course go with any colour of trouser apart from navy, just like a blazer, from pale green to biscuity brown. I quite like it with the pale green of these linen trousers, for example.
The other outfit I’ve shown the overshirt with, is the same trousers with a dark-brown knitted T-shirt (from The Anthology). This is useful to demonstrate a halfway house between shirt and tee: something casual, but knitted so more refined.
Like the shorts outfit above, it also shows how someone that doesn’t normally wear T-shirts (perhaps because they’re less flattering) can put an overshirt over the top to give them that collar at the neck.
Plus of course, the shirt gives you a better place to put your wallet and phone.
The best geometry for a collar is something Luca and I definitely agree on.
It must lie cleanly on the neck, but stay standing at the back when you put it up (as I often do with a T-shirt underneath). Once popped, the points of the collar should fold gracefully downwards, touching the body of the shirt.
It’s not an easy combination, but generally it comes having more structure in the collar stand, and less in the collar itself.
The sleeves, by the way, have a decent length placket, which makes it easy to roll them up if desired. It’s probably the most effective way to make the overshirt look more relaxed.
Elsewhere, the overshirt is cut a touch longer than most - 78cm on this size Medium - but as it’s just linen, could be easily shortened - perhaps around 3cm before the hem gets too close to the waist pockets.
The body is cut fairly straight, but it’s also a little slimmer than some, perhaps vintage-inspired chores and overshirts. Check the measurements below against a shirt you already have to get an idea. It could be slimmed further if required.
Oh, and I forgot to mention there’s also another, internal pocket, on the left hip. Also mobile-phone sized.
Product details:
- The PS Overshirt is made in 100% washed Irish linen, 290gm
- The buttons are dark-brown horn
- It is made in the Luca Avitabile atelier, Naples
- It is a clean machine make: no handwork other than handsewn buttons, unlike PS shirts
- The shirt has two breast pockets, two hidden waist pockets, and one internal hip pocket
- It can be washed cool (30 degrees) and hung to dry, as with a fine linen shirt
- It is available in dark navy and dark brown
Sizing:
- In the pictures, Simon is wearing a size Medium
- The body is cut straight but slightly slim compared to other chores and overshirts
- It is relatively long. Generally, an overshirt should reach somewhere between the bottom and halfway point of your seat
- Alterations, as on a shirt, are easy. The only limitations are the waist pockets, if shortening the body, and reducing the length of the placket, if shortening the sleeve.
Size chart:
| Neck | Chest | Waist | Shoulders | Back length | Sleeve | Cuff | |
| Small (44-46) | 38.5cm | 112 | 102 | 48 | 76 | 60 | 24 |
| Medium (48-50) | 40.5 | 118 | 110 | 50 | 78 | 62 | 25 |
| Large (52-54) | 42 | 124 | 116 | 52 | 79 | 64 | 26 |
| Extra large (56-58) | 44 | 130 | 124 | 54 | 81 | 66 | 27 |
These look great. Thank you Simon and Luca for the effort you put into these things.
How do you think it will wash, by the way? Much shrinkage?
No, I’ve washed mine a few times – 30 degrees, hang dry – and there was no shrinkage
Such a lovely piece. Congrats Simon, I’ve a feeling this will be another smash hit.
P.S. The last two links lead to the Selvedge Chambray shirt.
Oh dear. Thanks Joseph, I’ll fix that
The over shirts looks great, but The links to the shop don’t work for me. And I neither can’t see them directly in the shop.
Sorry, there was am error there. It’s been fixed now – let me know if you spot anything else!
Hi Simon – very excited to be receiving mine soon! I’ll add a further comment when they arrive.
Hello Simon,
Congrats on the new product launch! The overshirt looks lovely and really practical summer outer layer.
Cheers,
Tamaki
Thanks a lot for the article, Simon, it’s really interesting to read the details on the development and especially your thoughts on how different clothes fit into a core wardrobe.
In terms of the overshirt, in the end, I went for navy. I was focussed on brown initially for its versatility as we discussed with you below the PS Shorts article, but somehow navy just caught my eye more and I felt I would be more likely to reach for it when getting dressed. Mine should be in the post already and I’m eagerly waiting to receive it.
Could I ask if the photos in the article and the product page are an accurate representation of the two colours? The reason I ask is that you mention it’s a dark navy but it looks somewhat lighter to me, at least in comparison with say, the PS bridge coat.
Yes good point – it is probably a little darker than in the images. Not a lot, but navy linen like that does change a bit with different light, as it’s naturally reflective
Hi Simon,
could it be possible to keep a pair in size L navy in stock until end of month? I am waiting for a bank transfer and I am afraid that the stock will be empty if not so. I do hope you understand.
thank you
Hi Michael,
I’m afraid we don’t really do that, no. It doesn’t seem fair if another reader wants to buy it now – and use it in the current weather too.
I guess you could use a credit card?
Dear Simon,
Congratulations on yet another great product.
Nevertheless, I’m afraid that the sleeves are quite short. Based on the size chart, I think I would need a size S, however, since I’ve got pretty long arms, a sleeve length of 60cm seems far too short. Even the length in the medium seems kind of short at 62cm, don’t you think? My shirts are normally cut to a sleeve length of 66cm. I guess there is no way these can be lengthened, am I right?
Best regards,
Antoine
Hi Antoine,
Interesting point. We had erred a little on the short side, as I know some readers would like to show a little shirt cuff at the end; and without a shirt underneath, they would often roll the cuffs back.
But you’re right that it’s not possible to lengthen it more than 1cm or 1.5cm, and that’s not a very easy job. Perhaps it would have been better to be longer, and some people would have had to shorten the sleeves.
Good feedback for next time
S
Hi, brown in medium sold out already…?
Yes, brown is no longer available in medium, large or extra-large.
Bear in mind that as with all flagged-up product releases, there was a waiting list of people who had contacted the support team in advance.
They always get first access, and with this release around a half of the shirts went to them, with brown the most popular. Another 30 have since sold this morning.
If you want that colour and size, it’s always worth contacting support ([email protected]) to get an alert when it becomes available, for example through a size exchange.
Hi Simon, do you know if Luca would be willing to do an MTO for this design in a different color linen?
I’m not sure actually. We hadn’t thought about that, but normally he wouldn’t as it’s a Permanent Style product, rather than just a Luca Avitabile one. I’m sure we could work something out though. Let me know over email and we can chat to him about it
Thanks! I’ll make sure to reach out when it’s time for my next overshirt.
Hey Gabriele,
I checked with Luca, and he can do MTO or MTM. However, delivery won’t be until September given the workshop is full and will be closed during most of August.
Thanks
Hi Simon,
received the overshirt in navy on Friday and had the chance to use it over the weekend – it looks and feels great! Definitely will be a centerpiece of my summer wardrobe for years to come (will also get the brown when possible).
My question, however, is related to the MTO or MTM options as well but due to a different reason. Sadly, the DDP shipping option did not work for my country (EU) and had to go through some hiccups with the customs. As I am also on the waiting list for other products, the question would be, if it would be possible to keep some small stock at the producers site (Luca, Rota etc) to limit any possible problems with customs within the EU?
thanks!
Hi Justin,
Oh great, that’s wonderful to hear.
We have looked at using an EU distributor for some products, or working with the makers, but it becomes too complicated in terms of sending things back and forth, when some sizes sell out or are wanted in some areas. And that sending back and forth adds to the total cost for everyone unfortunately.
The DDP system is encountering problems in only a very small number of cases now – mostly in Germany and Latvia. And it’s been getting better steadily since the beginning of the year, which is good.
S
Thanks for the quick reply, Simon and I understand your comment completely! Your team informed me that they are organizing feedback from the distribution service, so I am looking forward to that (I’m the once case from the latter mentioned country :D).
Regarding MTO or MTM, as these are usually cases where no returns happen and thus no additional costs would occur, maybe this option could be organised as an additional option whenever something launched is sold out (as here Luca for the overshirts)?
Oh good, thanks Justin.
Yes, sorry MTM and MTO in this case would come straight from Luca, so no issues there.
The ability to offer MTM and MTO varies a lot with makers unfortunately. It’s not something our knitwear manufacturer can offer for instance, or Valstar, but Private White can on that outerwear.
Hi Simon,
Casual Southeastern USA based reader here. I have been reading for a bit over a year now. Most of what you cover is a bit more formal for my use, although I really enjoy learning and read most of your articles (I am in my late 20s).
Absolutely love this overshirt, I ordered one nearly immediately, Navy M, and it was my first ever purchase from your store. We have temperatures above 30 degrees C 5 months out of the year, and so I cherish the first autumn days (typically late October) when I can start wearing a Harrington jacket or bomber again. Having a second layer over a t shirt or collared shirt always makes me feel more confident and put together. If I can use this 4 out of our 5 summer months I will be super stoked.
I have high hopes to get a lot of use out of this overshirt, it really seems like the perfect piece for my level of formality, which is very close to the spread of formality that you have modeled the piece in.
As a final point I will also say that this was an expensive purchase for me clothing wise, however I decided to go for it because it looks awesome, seems extremely versatile, and I hope that the quality is such that I will get a decade worth of use out of it (which is how I try to purchase most things, quality over quantity, but doing so for clothes is still a newish venture for me, like I said this was my first ever purchase from you store, and I would rather go slow and not make too many wrong purchases). I think this one will be a huge win!
Cheers,
Guy
Hi Guy,
I’m so pleased, and it sounds like it will fit in perfectly with the level of formality you normally go for – as well as being flexible, over a T-shirt or a fairly formal shirt.
I appreciate it is expensive, but hopefully the quality will tell in time too, given it’s the best Irish linen you could get for a shirt like this, and make well in Italy.
Best
Simon
Simon,
My overshirt arrived today, and I have to say I am beyond pleased. I love the look, the fit is perfect, and I have never felt such nice linen!
Thanks again!
Guy
Amazing! I’m so pleased Guy, and thank you for letting me know
Hi Simon,
yet another fantastic launch of what may prove to be one of the most useful pieces in my wardrobe during the summer months. Trust me when I say, the robustness of the Irish linen will be put to the test! In fact I’m glad mine should be arriving shortly, weather is set to heat up here in NI towards next week.
An excellent breakdown as usual, as well as the finer points and adaptations you’ve made. I’ll balance the argument regarding sleeve length as I’m glad you’ve gone shorter in this iteration. Given I’ll be wearing mine with a tee most of the time as well, regardless I think the slightly shorter length is a nice touch of style. I’m waiting to see how the body length looks, might need to trim off a cm or two, but it might actually be just right.
To my surprise, I followed through and went with dark brown, given my love for navy. It was close, but on balance I know the cold deep brown will sit better with my casual leaning wardrobe.
Ck
Lovely to hear Chris, and thanks too on the sleeve and length feedback
Perhaps I missed it.
How much is it?
Sorry Stephen, how much is the overshirt? It’s £210 plus VAT – you can see all the details here
Hi Simon, love the look of this, and every minute that I don’t buy one feels more likely to result in them all being sold out…
Can I ask, do you think the navy could be worn with dark jeans, ie, raw denim that’s gone through the wash a few times? Not exactly summery, I realise, but as you know, here in the UK our weather’s so variable that mixing things up is sometimes necessary.
And finally… do/would you ever iron yours?
Cheers,
Joe
I personally wouldn’t wear the navy like that, no. But it wouldn’t look bad, just closer in tone to the jeans.
I usually briefly iron them, yes. Mostly just so the collar is sharp again. Then a brief pass over the rest.
Hi Simon, is there a trick to ironing the collar? I can’t get it to stand at the back while having the points fall down.
No, I’d just iron it normally. If anything you can fold the collar a little by hand halfway round to the front to encourage the points to drop down more, but I wouldn’t worry too much about it
Beautiful. Congratulations. The hat, by the way, is perfect.
Cheers
This hat goes nicely with the olive over shirt. I vaguely remember you mentioned somewhere it was from a fast fashion brand. Where did you get it from?
Details on the short launch post here
Wow the brown ones went so fast. Could only get a navy one, sadly..
Hi Simon,
The brown one went quick! I’ve added myself to the waiting list.
How does the collar differ from the Valerio ? (You describe it but it doesn’t necessarily mean there’s any difference)
No, it doesn’t, it’s the same
That’s a beautiful shirt,Simon. I will add my name to the PS team for when brown is back in stock.
You realise you have condemned the uk to 90 days of rain.
Dang, the brown in size medium sold out fast! I was checking the site every day in anticipation of the shirts going on sale after you mentioned them recently and still missed it. Any chances of a restock?
Not this Summer, sorry Craig. If you’re anticipating something like that, always best to get onto the waiting list. You’ll get first access that way
Good to know, I didn’t know there was one/overlooked it! I did grab a medium navy… Agree that the navy might be the more useful of the two, objectively speaking. I’m looking forward to using this as a summer jacket.
Those look fantastic. Great versatile core pieces for a summer casual wardrobe. The British weather is so variable, you can never have enough outer layers in different weights and fabrics!
I notice you say it’s cut a little longer than most overshirts. Do you think a size S would still look too long on a short guy? I’m 5’6″ so this is often a deal-breaker for me!
It depends where you want it to fall – best to compare the measurement to one you already own? You can shorten it a little too as mentioned
Is there any chance of a restock given that the brown has sold out so quickly?
No, sorry Alistair, not this Summer
Hi Simon,
what if there were a number of interested readers who would be willing to make a pre-order, would make a restock realistic for this summer?
Thanks!
No I’m afraid not Justin. It’s not about lack of demand, just about factory capacity
Understood, Simon! I did receive the heads up email but am on vacayion, so I read it sadly only today. I have written the support team to let me know, if something in size Medium comes back. I will jump right on it.
Ok great, thanks
These over shirts look great, especially the brown one. I have one in navy linen from Drakes, which I like but which my wife (and colleagues) mocks me for wearing, contending that it makes me look like an artist about to paint a nude in a studio. I’m not entirely sure whether I’m wearing the over shirt wrong or whether others just don’t fancy the style. Have you or others received similar feedback along these lines with wearing over shirts?
Oh dear. I’m sure your wife and colleagues are well meaning Paul, but that does seem a little small-minded.
Also, don’t be too thin-skinned. People, and other men in particular, often mock anything that’s even a little different. Whether it looks good or not.
Paul – I would take that as a token of affection if I were you. Besides it’s actually quite a good gag.
I’ve found that the added material from side pockets accentuates my lovehandles, it’s become a deal breaker on overshirts for me
Thanks Wes.
I’d be surprised if you felt that on this version, given how closely those pockets sit on the body. Most people don’t even notice they’re there.
Simon,
Are you planning a restock? By the time I saw the post and went to the PS shop, both colours size medium were sold out.
Anyway, the overshirt looks amazing. I have an olive green linen from Drake’s, the new model, and I love it. Overshirts are really useful these days.
Cheers.
FMA
No, sorry. We will get some back through exchanges etc though, so always worth emailing [email protected] anyway to be on that list
Love it !!
You’ve avoided giving it the (hideous) appearance of a safari jacket.
The hidden hip pockets look really great (although would be good to put a photo of the internal hip pocket). It’s really good the thought you’ve given to pockets being able to accommodate a mobile phone . In summer I will wear something with pockets just so I have somewhere to put my phone and wallet.
On the question of colour I think most men have navy trousers / chinos which then presents the problem of “blue on blue”. Brown above the waist is a colour most men can’t get their heads around. Although, I suspect colour is always a tricky balance especially given this is a ‘summer’ product.
P.S. I always think you ‘undersell’ your products.
This one especially needs to be shouted about from the rooftops.
Hi Simon,
Have you given up on your B.B. Montiecristo fedora completely?
Yes, afraid so. I sold it a few years ago
Looks like the mediums are already out of stock.
Any plans to restock this season?
Hey Jay – yes, see other comments here on restocking. There won’t be one, but we’ll get some exchanges
Looks great. I hope to see a return of this item next summer.
Is the back plain, or does it have pleats of some kind?
No, just plain
My Valerio has a center box pleat, is this a change you made to the pattern?
I’m sorry James, I answered that previous question too quickly without thinking. Ours does has a centre box pleat, like the Valerio.
Apologies
Looks great. Good decision to replace the bellow pockets on the hip with hidden pockets and the collar stand is important.
I actually think that many of the brand’s covered by Permanent Style get overshirts wrong (by attempting a more ‘tailored’ version) where more casual, workwear-focused brands get them right by simplifying the safari-style design. I have something similar: certainly not the fineness of make and material as the PS version and in heavy cotton rather than linen, but the simple styling makes it incredibly versatile. It could be longer, though, so another good decision for the PS overshirt.
Sadly I’m not in a position to upgrade at the moment but the PS version ticks all the boxes for me.
Thanks Lewis, looks nice. And good point about the tailoring v workwear brands
Hallo Simon,
very nice.
I have two questions:
1) Would you wear overshirts with tailored trousers, or just with more casual ones?
2) You seem to wear a lot of dark colours during the summer. Don’t wear they hotter than lighter colours? And isn’t that the reason why they might look a little bit out of place / season for some eyes?
Thanks,
Manuel
1) Yes I’d wear them with tailored trousers, absolutely. I’m wearing white linen trousers with the navy overshirt, and wore my old one with smarter trousers too – see here for an example.
2) I don’t find dark colours wear much hotter, no. Certainly the material, its weave and thickness, make a much bigger difference.
I don’t think they look out of place either. Socially, because really no one these days varies their wardrobe colours between seasons at all really. And aside from society as a whole, I just think the weather is an opportunity to wear colour or bright clothes, rather than a requirement. See this article on that point.
Dear Simon,
I looked through all your text and read all the comments to see if you identified your T-shirt. Because of the width of its neck collar visible in tvosr two photographs, I assert it cannot be Sunspel. Am I wrong?
No you’re not wrong Peter. It’s from The Flat Head – I did mention that on the shorts article, where those images first appeared
Your beard looks good, Simon!
Postscript: I mean the beige or off-white or cream or eggshell is not Sunspel, not the navy or black T- or perhaps V-shirt whose neck collar is indiscernible to my naked eye.
Hi Simon, is there any particular reason you choose normal shirt collar with collar band instead of Drake’s version camp collar? Do you think these two types of collar vary a lot in overshirt style?
I think camp collars can be nice, but they’re usually a little more unusual and less versatile. Certainly in dress shirts, less so in overshirts like this.
You can see my views on camp collars in smarter shirts here (from Marol).
Nice work, It would be great if PS launch safari jacket too
That’s not something I’m really interested in Stanley, for the reasons mentioned at the beginning of the article. That’s not a style I find that attractive
Simon, does this mean that you no longer wear your Armoury linen safari jacket? If so, what changed your mind?
I do still wear it, as I love the colour, the linen and the fit. But ideally it wouldn’t have all the safari details
Just received my navy in a L, as per your advice and fits like a dream and looks a million dollars. I’m working today and wearing stone chinos and a blue Oxford button down and your over shirt looks equally as smart as it does slightly laid back, if you get what I mean! And it goes without saying, the quality of the linen is exactly what I have come to expect from you, Simon. Last thing though and I wouldn’t dream on advising you how to run your business but you have seriously underestimated your market in terms of stock levels. Your polos, shorts, Valstarino jacket and now these are selling out far too quickly. You are either far too modest for your own good or you need to work on your maths. I suspect it’s more a case of the former!
Thanks Richard, that’s so great to hear, thank you.
I agree with you, we did underestimate on the polos and the overshirts. With the Valstarinos it’s more about limited production availability from them.
We are also trying to keep most regular shirts in stock (oxfords, Friday Polos etc) but more seasonal things not all the time. It helps a lot if we’re not trying to keep stock up on all styles, because it means there is less error or fewer odd styles and sizes left over. Less stock carry. Which is core to being able to offer great value and never go on sale.
I hope that makes sense.
I know that there was already a question about MTO above, and you said that it’s probably impossible, but would there be a chance of MTM? Not changing anything about the design, colour, or material, just lengthening the body and the sleeves? Maybe I should ask Luca directly?
The design is fantastic but, as always, the sleeves are way too short for me and it would be such a shame not to be able to buy it.
The same would apply to MTM as well I think, but do email Luca anyway, and we’ll talk about trying to arrange this.
Hey Robert,
I checked with Luca, and he can do MTO or MTM. However, delivery won’t be until September given the workshop is full and will be closed during most of August.
Thanks
Simon, I just received my suede valstarino jacket, another great item from you, thank you! I am passing through Rome for two nights in a few weeks, only European city on this trip from Los Angeles, are there any men’s shops that you would recommend I visit while there? Thank you.
I don’t really know Rome well enough to say, sorry.
Hi Simon,
My brown overshirt arrived today. I am delighted with it and, as you would expect from something made by Luca’s team in Naples, the quality is excellent. I already have a Valerio in midnight blue so can make a couple of comparisons which may be helpful for some:
(i) the original Valerio is much roomier in the body and the sleeves are quite long (too long for my arms anyway). Yours is slimmer, has shorter arms and fits me perfectly as a result. The length is also perfect.
(ii) your new version solved the biggest issue I have with the Valerio – the pockets being FAR too low. Possibly 2 inches lower than yours. I think that’s because the top of the pocket lines up with the armhole, but on an XL (sadly the size for a rotund chap like me) the armhole is just bigger to accommodate a variety of sizes, and as a result the position of the pocket looks a bit peculiar as a result.
(iii) think I actually prefer hopsack linen material in the Valerio and commend Luca for that choice. I really like the “rumpling” which makes it feel casual. Maybe the brown should be hopsack whilst the navy should be the smarter Irish linen.
Anyway, I now have two lovely items in my wardrobe which will both get a lot of use. Thanks for the effort you and Luca have put into this. There’s definitely room for a third if you decide to repeat this next year…..
Best wishes,
Rob
Thank you Rob.
I will check with Luca on (i) as the fitting should be the same.
Pleased to hear the pockets work better for you though
Received mine in navy (M) today. It’s lovely, the fabric feels very high-quality, the colour is just right, not too dark / not too light. The proportions work very well for me and the sleeve length is bang on – I’d love if they remained the same length in any next iterations. Matt horn buttons as always very much appreciated. I’ll be definitely getting the brown next year!
Amazing, thanks for letting me know Teo
Ditto on all counts (the XL in navy for me).
Budd made me a bespoke overskirt in brown linen a few years back and I rarely wear it – it hadn’t occurred to me that the lower patch pockets were a design problem but you are absolutely right. The hidden pockets on your version are genius.
Thank you
Hi Simon,
A great inspiration! This is definitely a lovely piece!
John
Cheers John
How large is the hip pocket? I often work with an iPad Mini but I guess that the pocket is too small for that.
It is, yes. I think it would probably be too heavy as well. That might be OK in a heavier Winter material, but a phone is about as heavy as you can really put in something light like this
I’ve worn this extensively over the last ten days and I think it’s a grand slam. It’s a great alternative to a summer jacket, the pockets are very useful, and it doesn’t look like a costume in the way that safari jackets do, with their very noticeable four patch pockets. I gave it a wash to shrink the sleeves a bit and it fits like it was tailored for me specifically, which is odd because my proportions often make RTW require alterations.
I would love to see a version in cream, a color I know you love for odd jackets, and one which I’ve come around to loving as well.
Amazing, thanks a lot Craig.
Cream is hard to find in the right shade in linen, but I’ll definitely keep an eye out
Whilst I wasn’t quick enough to order the PS overshirt in brown. I’ve just received an olive hop sack linen overshirt from Luca and am really pleased with it. The fit is spot on and I particularly like the quality buttons. I will be wearing it for the whole month of August. I’m just waiting for some brown cotton canvas stoffa trousers and try to see if it’s works with the overshirt. I might see if Luca can do a Bespoke overshirt in a dark beige.
Simon have you got any plans to offer different colours next summer?
Yes we will – I don’t know which yet though
Hi Simon,
I just received my brown linen overshirt back from Luca yesterday, after a small length alteration. Seeing today’s forecast where I live had 20 degree highs, there was little self convincing required.
It really is a joy to wear, and I can’t think of a base in my lifestyle it won’t cover. Today see’s it over a Sunspel tee, navy chinos and CQP sneakers. Tommorow, perhaps desert boots. It really is a very smart option for stepping outside the door and looking subtly considered, working with ease over even the most casual of outfits (by my standards, probably many PS readers as well), as I’ve described.
I already can’t wait for next years iteration, to add to the summer outerwear arsenal. For someone that likes to wear a jacket outside the house, even in the warmest of weather, there’s really no alternative to an overshirt like this. And the Irish Linen? Rumples like leather, and I absolutely love that. Will be even better in a few years no doubt.
Ck
Amazing amazing. Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased you find it so useful, and that you get why that colour is so great
I wanted to add praise for this fantastic piece. I’ve mentioned a few times my frustration with living in a warm climate as it’s difficult to wear elegant layers like the PS Donegal or Bridge Coat, or the Indulgent Shawl Cardigan. This overshirt goes a long way toward curing that problem. I love the dark, cold brown color, the lightweight linen that breathes and remains beautiful even when rumpled, the perfectly shaped collar that looks great down or popped, and just about everything else. I wore it on top of a PS Oxford at a casual outdoor reception, remained comfortable even in the summer heat, and received several compliments to boot. Thanks so much for these ingenious designs that truly fill market gaps and are just a joy to wear.
Fantastic, I’m so pleased
@Simon – What distinguishes an overshirt from a chore jacket? I’ve seen both with identical designs, both in the same fabric. Is that perhaps because one is being mis-marketed or is there in fact very little to separate the two?
These terms are always going to be fluid – no one’s setting a definition and it’s never really going to be mismarketing.
But in general an overshirt should look like a shirt. That means usually longer, usually slimmer, often with a curved hem, usually with fewer pockets and usually in a material that you can just about imagine being a heavy version of a normal shirt, that you could tuck in.
Hi Simon, do you know if there will be a re-run on these in time for next summer?
Yes, there will. Use the form on the shop page to get added to the waiting list if you’re interested
Simon, does a size S work for you, or is it too tight? This looks quite generous in the chest, and am curious whether you went for an M as you wanted it to be more casual or because an S was too tight? Thank you.
Please bring this back in navy! Olive would be a great substitute for the brown.
Will do!
A S would have been too tight, yes. It would also have been too short. I could even do with a little more in the length than the M.
Bear in mind that you don’t want something like this for Summer to be close fitting at all. You want some air flow
Simon, what do you think about a dark olive colourway this summer?
We’re looking at colours at the moment Neil. I’m not sure I like the dark-olive options, but let’s see
Hello Simon, i noticed on the email sent around regarding future PS products that a casual summer jacket is planned. Of course, i am not expecting you to spill the beans now, but am curious if you can provide any comparison to the linen overshirt? I have been looking for a summer jacket for a while and have high expectations for this. Thanks!
Yes I can’t say much I’m afraid John, but it will be more of a casual, short jacket than an overshirt
Thanks Simon, that’s very helpful. For what it’s worth, if you could release this new jacket before the restock of the overshirt (I see both are anticipated to be ready in April) that would help my wallet; I can only justify one or the other and would love to see this first!
Can’t make any promises there I’m afraid John! But we are getting lots of the overshirt, given how popular it was last year, so they should last a while hopefully.
Hallo Simon,
since there are more and more casual suits flowing onto the market, I have been asking myself if an “overshirt suit” would work. What do you think?
Best regards,
Manuel
People do sell them – sometimes called pyjama suits even. I think they’re cool, but not really so much of a substitute for a suit, more a particular fashion choice
Hi Simon, what do you think of rust overshirts? I assume they are certainly would not be versatile as navy/brown but do you think this colour could go well with khaki/stone chinos and dark brown shoes?
Sorry, I am asking questions regarding matching colours all over your articles. I have a pretty stressful time matching colours these days after noticing a bit by bit. Initially, it looked simple, but it seemed like too many rules and complicated for me.
Many thanks,
Jack
I think you’ll find it easier if you start with the most versatile colours, like navy and brown, and then later add more unusual ones. Rust is nice, yes, but not as versatile. Sounds like you’ve got a good handle on this!
Hello Simon,
I was wondering if you had plans to re-stock the overshirt in navy this summer?
Failing that, do you think it would be ok to arrange a MTO with Luca (or would this be a PS exclusive product)?
Yes we are JT, we should have the first batch in a couple of weeks actually. Are you on the waiting list?
Great! I have just done so via the link on the shop – looking forward to the new batch.
Nice, thanks
Hi Simon
Will the green one also come back in stock this year?
We haven’t done a green overshirt before, but we are doing one this year for the first time, yes. Is that what you meant?
No, I actually meant the original brown version, which I had always just seen as more of a dark green olive than brown and not noticed as described as brown (also I’m mildly colorblind..). So my mistake, but interesting with the new color, will the brown then also be available again?
Yes, the brown will be also
Thanks. Really looking forward to it.
I have had the same blue linen overshirt from Drake’s for a few years, and just seem to wear it all the time during summer so the versatility of the brown seems to be a perfect addition to my wardrobe. Espacially since I also find the Avitabile options a bit too strong in colors.
Brilliant, I hope you love it when you get it!
Looking forward to hearing about the restock. Not too sure about sizing – my Drakes Overshirt is an L.
Worth comparing the measurements to that one then, if you haven’t already?
I’m feeling quite silly now. tried on overshirt today to probably try to get on this or next batch. and it slipped my mind whether I tried l or XL (I’m sure I asked for XL, or size 6) maybe you remember which one was it? I did mention that charcoal overcoat is lighter than cream and you said now there’s alarms on all shirts.
after trying it on, surprisingly I really like it!
however thing is, I’m fairly certain fit was quite ok, sleeves surprisingly didn’t feel too long, but I’d need extra 2-3 cm to button collar. I know on one hand I’d never wear overshirt fully buttoned, but on other hand, wouldn’t you think collar look… off, if it’s 1-2 sizes too small?
also, would you wear it with heavy Irish linen pleated trousers? (as in linen on linen).
I’m going on holiday at the end of the month, first time in 2 years! I’m hoping these will be available to buy in time for that. Fingers crossed.
Have you managed to try the new olive green addition in the wild? If so, would you see yourself gravitating more towards the green over the navy and brown this summer? You previously noted that the navy was a more regular traveling companion than the brown.
Asking as someone who would likes all three colours, but should stretch to only one big purchase for summer 2022. So, versatility is key.
Thanks in advance.
I have, and there will be some images of it next week. I think if it were my first overshirt like this, I’d probably go for the navy or brown, but this pale olive is a great second choice.
maybe I just got unlucky but on my first wear I managed to slightly damage navy overshirt. hence the question, how fragile is it supposed to be?
20min walk carrying 2kg box under my arm and a spot rubbed off. now I have a question.. did I just got unlucky or it’s very easy to have similar “damage” when carrying a shoulder bag?
I think the brown PS overshirt has significantly changed the way I dress this summer, and it’s also the first item of clothing which I like wearing day by day. It goes wonderfully with every outfit from jeans, sneakers and a t-shirt to loafers, linen trousers and an Oxford shirt. I should say that I love tailored clothing, but I work in academia in the US, and sport jackets look too “fancy” when everyone else dresses so casually. Still, I like to wear some additional layer over a shirt/t-shirt, and knitwear such as v-necks etc is not really my kind of thing. This overshirt has solved the puzzle for me.
I wonder what do you think of this overshirt made from other materials, such as wool/cotton as an autumn piece of clothing?
Lovely to hear that Kirill.
I think they can be nice in the autumn, though I usually prefer things that look more like a jacket, such as a Teba style
is there something similar which you can wear under a coat as well?
Yes you could wear any of these unstructured jackets under a coat – presuming it’s cut with some decent room. After all you should be able to fit a normal jacket underneath a coat
I wonder if you can recommend some fabrics to look at?
There is an article on this Kirill – here
Will the dark brown be available next spring as well? I saw it was sold out. It looks nice and I thought I could put on my buying-list for next year. 🙂
Yes it will be – though it’s only sold out in Medium
Simon,is there any chance you could do something on the overshirt/chore coat as office wear? It seems to be increasingly common. Possibly that some of us haven’t yet succeeded in shifting the lockdown weight gain and a turned up collar is an effective foil to the less svelte waistline. And of course something something casualisation of society etc. I’d really enjoy your thoughts on this. As a barometer, far fewer tailored jackets at the Drake’s sample sale the other day (the English Pitti?) and many more chore coats.
Yes, chore coats has become what they do predominantly, and it does work well.
OK sure I can do something – so wearing casual jackets like that as office wear? Presumably your office is smart enough that you wouldn’t be wearing jeans as the trousers?
No, jeans wouldn’t normally be acceptable. The chore coat/overshirt as a replacement for a blazer/odd jacket. Many thanks
Great, got it
Adding knitted blazers into this would be great. Even better a PS knitted blazer ?
Hi Simon, would you wear knitted polo under the overshirt?
Many thanks,
Jack
Yes I would Jack
love the overshirt and thinking about brown for next year… however I’m getting really unlucky with buttons and buttonholes on PS stuff… bridge coat? 2 wears later had to bring it back to pwc to resew buttons and redo a bunch of buttonholes.. they were kind enough to do it free of charge. today after less than 20 wears picked up my overshirt and same thing. the buttons I’ve been using on overshirt is starting to come off. as annoying as it is, I can resew the buttons on my own (not the crows feet but still)… but I also noticed some button holes has thread coming out a bit… so far not a problem, but remembering bridge coat, makes me kind of uneasy…. question is… why I’ve never had this problem on cheap stuff but second expensive thing from PS has buttons falling off? am I unlucky? I don’t think I’m doing something wrong…
Well, to be honest Martins we get very little of this kind of feedback, so it seems likely that you have just been unlucky.
However, loose buttons isn’t really a good yardstick to judge expensive clothing. Expensive ones should be no worse that cheaper ones, but they won’t be better either. The expense is in the materials, and for example the buttons themselves.
well… trench coat after less than 2 month looks to be another unlucky piece for me… first inside jigger button used 2 times, now I notice outside buttons… as of now it’s not the buttons themselves that’s coming off, it’s that stretchy (rubbery?) thread that’s wrapped around the thread to give button a leg to stand on… interesting that I got unlucky on every piece with buttons I got from you…
I’m really glad wax walker poppers seems to be ok as of now! 🙂
It was nice to see you at the pop-up Martins, sorry you didn’t mention this in person. Given the lack of issues with the coats overall, it does sound like you’ve been unlucky, unless there’s something to do with the fit that makes this more likely.
was nice to see you too! an my wallet will keep on hating you for years to come! 🙂 now cardigan is on my list and I’m starting to think that ready to wear shirt would be ok for me too…
well the brightest ideas allways comes to my mind when it’s too late, but also at that point I wasn’t wearing trench, I was wearing wax walker.. and also at that point it was only inside button that I caught on time so just tied the thread off and that I think fixed it!
oh I forgot to mention, when I took out liner for the first time, one rubber hook (thingy?) on the top came off also…
I bought the trench from private white so I think I’ll email them to see what they say, but if you will still be at the pop up, happy to come and show you the coat in person! for 3 things out of 4 to have problems, maybe I AM doing something wrong…
p.p.s. the only I’m sorry I didn’t see in pop up was brown tote. really curious about colour in person…
Ah, yes sorry we don’t have any of the brown tote left in stock so didn’t have one to bring in
Are there plans to restock the brown tote anytime soon?
Yes Andy, we’re waiting on some new stock at the moment. As ever, make sure you’re on the waiting list
Hi Simon,
Will all colours of the PS Overshirt be returning next year?
And will there be another opportunity to try them on for sizing at the next pop up. I forget whether I was a XS or S.
Thanks.
Yash
Yes Yash, and yes they should be here in time for the pop-up
How cool of a weather can the linen overshirt be worn? Would it look out of season to layer with shirt and a fine wool sweater? How about with just a sweater such as the fine crewneck? Planning ahead for spring!
Thanks
A fine crewneck might be good, yes, but I wouldn’t do a shirt and knit.
Can I wear the brown overshirt with dark wash jeans, dark brown boots and shirt(black, navy…etc.)?
Yes
Simon,
I just received my brown overshirt. Very pleased. Two quick questions. Can I wear the navy one with midwash jeans? Will there be any new colors?
Thanks
Yes I think that looks nice. There is a black coming, though quite a lot of delays on linen across the industry, so they’ll be coming slowly and maybe one colour at a time
Interesting on the black! What possible items would you pair with that, in ways that are different from the Navy or Brown? I’m considering the Navy.
Did you see it in this article Paul?
I did not! Thank you, your foresight is remarkable.
I’ll just add, per the comment way above about sleeve length, it’s too bad about the 1cm additional length change. Your rationale about it layering over a shirtsleeve makes a lot of sense in terms of my use. It’s an overshirt, not a shirt.
Thanks for the note Paul
Hi Simon,
Do you plan o rereleasing this shirt? It seems superior to the one offered by Luca directly. Would love to get the brown one!!
Thanks
Thanks. Yes they are coming back, there have been just been huge delays with the linen weaving. We released a small batch using the last of last year’s cloth, and the bulk will be coming in now every month or so. As ever make sure you’re on the waiting list
Hi Simon, would you wear a mid-heavy-weight cotton sweater underneath the PS overshirt?
Many thanks,
Jack
You could, certainly, but I generally wouldn’t because I’d be wearing the overshirt for lightness/coolness
I love this linen over shirts. How do I order for one?
They are available on shop.permanentstyle.com – the overshirt page is here
How can one place an order from the US?
They are available on shop.permanentstyle.com – the overshirt page is here
Hi Simon – do the cuffs of the sleeves have buttons? It looked at all the pictures and they all seem to be unbuttoned, and I’m having trouble finding any pictures showing the cuff button. Thank you.
Sorry, yes they have one button
I ordered one, looks way more smart and like a blazer on you than it does me. Maybe its the sizing and should go a size down
You will get a touch of shrinkage, 1-2cm after washing.
Hi Simon,
Great overshirt, getting ready for the re-release. Would you ever wear this on its own (no shirt underneath), buttoned up (but perhaps one additional undone for the summer/riviera style) or is the structure/makeup such that it wouldn’t look right? Given all the casual jacket styles, wondering if this leans far enough into the shirt category to wear it more like a summer work shirt. Not crucial, as I would intend to layer but the added option to wear on its own is appealing.
Thanks very much. Andrew
I wouldn’t myself, no. I’d want at least a vest underneath
Hi Simon,
what size would you recommend at 188cm, slim/slight athletic build?
kind regards,
Aaron
Perhaps a Large, Aaron, but it depends a lot on weight, physique, sleeves. Could I suggest you check the measurements against a big shirt you already own, or something similarly light that you’d happily wear over a T-shirt for example
Hi, I’m aware the wash instructions say dry clean only. However, has anyone tried washing this on a delicate 30 degree machine wash? Did it come out ok?
I have done and it’s fine James, you just might get a little shrinkage (say a centimetre in the arms) so I wouldn’t if that would make a big difference to you fit-wise
Hello PS Team, I’m trying to get a sense as to what the 290gsm weight would feel and drape like. The only comparisons I have is your typical Irish linen button-down shirt which is thin and breezy–I’m sure we all know what that’s like. Alternatively I have Anderson & Sheppard’s Linen Jacket #2, which is heavier and drapes really well over a nice shirt, much like an unlined linen blazer. It’s worked well for office wear during hotter months (I live in an oceanside, mediterranean climate where people dress far more casual than I like). The latter is the most expensive single item I have ever paid for, however, and that will not be happening again. On A&S’s website, it says it is 12oz–is that the weight of the fabric, and therefore equivalent to 407gsm (I could be totally off here)?
I am looking for something with a bit of weight for my said summer work purposes, so am considering The PS linen overshirt in navy when it’s back in stock, worn much like your photos with the chambray shirt.
Hi Paul,
Yes that’s right on the A&S jacket, so ours is lighter than that. But linen shirts are a lot lighter still – you’ll find it’s about half way between the two. It’s a more common weight for a summer overshirt – the A&S is quite unusual there
Thanks Simon, this is very helpful. I will keep an eye on the PS Store inventory.
Hi Simon,
Do you think the dark brown would work with dark brown suede shoes? I was eying the tobacco as well but I find that color more suited for a leather (cowboy) jacket.
Yes, I find it does work with dark brown suede shoes
Cheers Simon, how is the stock looking on the Large in the dark brown?
Good, 12 pieces left
Thanks! Will have some thinking to do (as I do with each purchase), will probably order next week if my mind is still set on it and it’s still in stock.
Btw, will there be a restock on the PS style undershirts and tapered t shirts this year?
I love my tapered t shirts (allthough I’m thinking about increasing the taper by 1 cm on each side due to me having wide/broad shoulders and a smaller waist) and would love to upgrade the stack with another white and grey version.
I also find the length lacking when using under a sweater (that’s why there is the undershirt with additional length ofcourse).
Cheers in advance!
Thanks Edwin, and useful feedback.
The undershirts will be here later this month hopefully. The Tapered ones we’re still waiting for a date on
ah! That’s good to know, might combine the order then (if there’s still overshirt stock) so I can save on some shipping.
Have a great friday and weekend!
Cheers Edwin.
Interesting you say this, as it has been my primary reservation against the dark brown. Not sure if there is a rule or perhaps it’s just my personal preference not to like matching shoe colour with top half outerwear, although for some reason I feel differently when both are black. I’m naturally drawn to the navy overshirt but wear casual navy shirts often and wondering if tobacco brown would be more suitable or whether the contrast would be too great? For further reference, other colours I typically wear in shirts are lilac, grey, pink, pale blue and white. Lower half colours in summer include tan, grey, beige in linen and mid blue and ecru in denim. Shoes are dark brown polished moccasins and suede lace ups as well as a pair of blue suede Castaner espadrilles. I would kindly appreciate your thoughts.
Hey Nikolai,
I understand that, and my first thought would be to have different colours, but you can wear both and it be fine, I wouldn’t worry if you find you have to, it’s just a little less interesting
Thanks Simon, yes I would agree that I’m probably deterred from the match as it lacks visual interest, unless perhaps there could be great textural or tonal variation. What do you think of the navy overshirt with navy knitted or pique cotton polo, or perhaps a rayon or viscose camp collar shirt underneath? I appreciate the brown would be a better in these cases but I’ve never been drawn to smooth fibre brown materials like linen, cotton and merino. Somehow I feel brown needs the texture of suede or corduroy (I do have in shoes and a sport coat respectively) to make it interesting and perhaps in my view necessarily ‘softened’ against other fabrics and one’s skin tone. On the other hand, navy linen seems to draw in the beholder with the way it reacts to light differently, pleasingly to my eye, albeit sometimes ‘dusty’ as you have previously remarked. Tobacco linen certainly has striking appeal in the richness of colour but I feel the contrast with navy would be too great.
I think those navy combinations sound good, but I would say that none of the materials are that smooth and I wouldn’t describe the brown in that way. There’s quite a lot of texture to it, certainly compared to those things you’re considering wearing under it
Thanks again Simon, I feel the navy is therefore the best choice for me, although I suspect I would greater appreciate the tone and texture of the brown Irish linen when in hand.
yes I agree
Hi Simon,
I really hope you enjoyed your well-deserved vacation. I am unfortunately not able to visit your event in Burlington Arcade but hope that you eventually will make it back to Stockholm for something similar. I may go to London in the Fall and will try to do it when you have a pop-up.
I bought the brown one as I own similar overshirts in navy. It is really lovely an very versatile. I am actually thinking about trying another color as well. But I am thinking about saving on postage and will probably wait until the PS shorts are available. Do you have any update on the release for these?
Thank you Carl, that would be nice.
The shorts should be arriving very soon, in the next week or two.