Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Hanger Project a...

March 8th 2017

Over the past 10 days I have generally prioritised writing about new brands in our Savile Row pop-up shop. But there are also new developments at makers you will be familiar with - Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Beg...

Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Hanger Project a...

Over the past 10 days I have generally prioritised writing about new brands in our Savile Row pop-up shop. But there are also new developments at makers you will be familiar with - Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Beg...

Accessories - LoaferMarch 8th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs ...

Building a wardrobe: Shoes

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs ...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer monks

January 11th 2017

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the un...

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer monks

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the un...

Monk - ShoesJanuary 11th 2017

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US acti...

December 23rd 2016

The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction. Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than bespok...

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US acti...

The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction. Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than bespok...

Boot - ShoesDecember 23rd 2016

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

December 16th 2016

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and...

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and...

Accessories - HatsDecember 16th 2016

Ludwig Reiter shoes – Factory visit

December 15th 2016

Ludwig Reiter is an old shoemaker used to catering to a wide variety of customers. It sells bags, sandals and trainers alongside oxfords and brogues, for both men and women. Many of the styles also look a little old fas...

Ludwig Reiter shoes – Factory visit

Ludwig Reiter is an old shoemaker used to catering to a wide variety of customers. It sells bags, sandals and trainers alongside oxfords and brogues, for both men and women. Many of the styles also look a little old fas...

Boot - ShoesDecember 15th 2016

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki S...

November 28th 2016

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the h...

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki S...

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the h...

ShoesNovember 28th 2016

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

November 14th 2016

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and ...

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and ...

Bags - HatsNovember 14th 2016

Brussels craft event

October 30th 2016

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as sever...

Brussels craft event

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as sever...

Accessories - GlassesOctober 30th 2016

Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton

October 11th 2016

Edward Green recently made this video showing step-by-step the stages of making a pair of shoes in the Northampton factory. I like the lack of pretentiousness to it - others would desaturate the imagery, use slow motio...

Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton

Edward Green recently made this video showing step-by-step the stages of making a pair of shoes in the Northampton factory. I like the lack of pretentiousness to it - others would desaturate the imagery, use slow motio...

Oxford - ShoesOctober 11th 2016

Interview: John Happ of Alden, and the danger of fa...

October 5th 2016

During Alden’s recent trunk show at Trunk Clothiers in London, I chatted to John Happ (Alden’s Director of European Sales) about why he dislikes talking about heritage - and the penny loafers they didn&rsquo...

Interview: John Happ of Alden, and the danger of fa...

During Alden’s recent trunk show at Trunk Clothiers in London, I chatted to John Happ (Alden’s Director of European Sales) about why he dislikes talking about heritage - and the penny loafers they didn&rsquo...

Monk - ShoesOctober 5th 2016

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the bea...

September 23rd 2016

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three ...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the bea...

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three ...

Loafer - ShoesSeptember 23rd 2016

Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years

September 16th 2016

Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up yo...

Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years

Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up yo...

ShoesSeptember 16th 2016

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

August 29th 2016

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Casual wear - JacketsAugust 29th 2016

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

August 1st 2016

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 1st 2016

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxfords

July 15th 2016

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be. But before I go into the product, I want to talk abou...

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxfords

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be. But before I go into the product, I want to talk abou...

Oxford - ShoesJuly 15th 2016

The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & Lange

June 29th 2016

I promised on my original post that I would tell readers when these loafers were available to buy, and they now are. The site www.baudoinandlange.com is up and running and you can now purchase, rather than just pre-or...

The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & Lange

I promised on my original post that I would tell readers when these loafers were available to buy, and they now are. The site www.baudoinandlange.com is up and running and you can now purchase, rather than just pre-or...

Loafer - ShoesJune 29th 2016

The Sagan: A high-end Belgian loafer from Allan Bau...

June 8th 2016

I recently became involved with - and more importantly, started using - the best Belgian-style loafers I have ever worn. They are made by Allan Baudoin, a French bespoke shoemaker who now lives in England and has a work...

The Sagan: A high-end Belgian loafer from Allan Bau...

I recently became involved with - and more importantly, started using - the best Belgian-style loafers I have ever worn. They are made by Allan Baudoin, a French bespoke shoemaker who now lives in England and has a work...

Loafer - ShoesJune 8th 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 2016

Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review

May 26th 2016

If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere. Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator ad...

Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review

If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere. Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator ad...

Oxford - ShoesMay 26th 2016

Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear

May 20th 2016

Yesterday's post raised a few questions about other aspects of the outfit - specifically the black suede shoes and cream-coloured cardigan. I think it's interested to discuss both together, for stylistically they have ...

Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear

Yesterday's post raised a few questions about other aspects of the outfit - specifically the black suede shoes and cream-coloured cardigan. I think it's interested to discuss both together, for stylistically they have ...

Casual wear - DerbyMay 20th 2016

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

May 2nd 2016

When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space fo...

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space fo...

Boot - DerbyMay 2nd 2016

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

April 27th 2016

A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad. First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer – Foster’s lastmake...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad. First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer – Foster’s lastmake...

Oxford - ShoesApril 27th 2016

James Smith & Son umbrellas, London

April 22nd 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – James Smith & Sons Two or three...

James Smith & Son umbrellas, London

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – James Smith & Sons Two or three...

Accessories - OxfordApril 22nd 2016

The Rake collaborations

April 21st 2016

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them fi...

The Rake collaborations

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them fi...

Boot - ScarvesApril 21st 2016

How to wear trainers – 1: What to buy

April 20th 2016

Designer trainers – or sneakers as our American friends call them – are all the rage. A cynic would say that’s because brands have realised they can make big margins on a cheap, lightly designed pro...

How to wear trainers – 1: What to buy

Designer trainers – or sneakers as our American friends call them – are all the rage. A cynic would say that’s because brands have realised they can make big margins on a cheap, lightly designed pro...

Casual wear - LoaferApril 20th 2016

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia...

April 13th 2016

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia...

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great...

Jackets - OxfordApril 13th 2016

Book signing at the Opening of LeatherFoot, Toronto

April 11th 2016

When I fantasise about running my own shop, stocked with the greatest menswear money can buy, it normally involves having the finest tailor and the finest shoemaker on site, beavering away just for me. I discovered l...

Book signing at the Opening of LeatherFoot, Toronto

When I fantasise about running my own shop, stocked with the greatest menswear money can buy, it normally involves having the finest tailor and the finest shoemaker on site, beavering away just for me. I discovered l...

Oxford - ShoesApril 11th 2016

The Friday Polo – next batch available

March 2nd 2016

*Stock is now very limited. For the current position please check the Shop page* I’m pleased to say that the next batch of our Friday Polos – handmade in Naples and designed by us here in London –...

The Friday Polo – next batch available

*Stock is now very limited. For the current position please check the Shop page* I’m pleased to say that the next batch of our Friday Polos – handmade in Naples and designed by us here in London –...

Casual wear - OxfordMarch 2nd 2016

Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review

February 29th 2016

I began the process of having trousers made by Salva (-tore Ambrosi) just over a year ago. Since then I’ve had two pairs made – in fresco and flannel – and while the quality of the product has been g...

Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review

I began the process of having trousers made by Salva (-tore Ambrosi) just over a year ago. Since then I’ve had two pairs made – in fresco and flannel – and while the quality of the product has been g...

Oxford - ShoesFebruary 29th 2016

Which office are you? (Or, a sliding scale of forma...

February 15th 2016

Dressing well is as much about propriety as it is about style, quality or personality. This is particularly true at work, where there are often prescriptions, or at least expectations, about professionalism and cloth...

Which office are you? (Or, a sliding scale of forma...

Dressing well is as much about propriety as it is about style, quality or personality. This is particularly true at work, where there are often prescriptions, or at least expectations, about professionalism and cloth...

Loafer - ShoesFebruary 15th 2016

Floris bespoke perfume

February 1st 2016

Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my...

Floris bespoke perfume

Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my...

Accessories - OxfordFebruary 1st 2016

Nineteen of our squares left… (and the virtue...

December 28th 2015

There are just 19 of our cashmere squares left – the beautiful collaboration we started a few weeks ago with Begg & Co. The colours have sold pretty evenly, with 9 navy and 10 ‘natural’ (pictured...

Nineteen of our squares left… (and the virtue...

There are just 19 of our cashmere squares left – the beautiful collaboration we started a few weeks ago with Begg & Co. The colours have sold pretty evenly, with 9 navy and 10 ‘natural’ (pictured...

Oxford - ShoesDecember 28th 2015

The benefits of building a shoe wardrobe – ne...

November 6th 2015

The new Edward Green website launched last week, and it’s very impressive. Unusually for the fashion industry, the site is both attractive and highly functional. The photography and colour palette are lovely, bu...

The benefits of building a shoe wardrobe – ne...

The new Edward Green website launched last week, and it’s very impressive. Unusually for the fashion industry, the site is both attractive and highly functional. The photography and colour palette are lovely, bu...

Derby - OxfordNovember 6th 2015

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 12th 2015

What is worth being made bespoke?

August 21st 2015

Re-fitting for a Simone Abbarchi shirt, Florence In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth ha...

What is worth being made bespoke?

Re-fitting for a Simone Abbarchi shirt, Florence In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth ha...

How to - OvercoatsAugust 21st 2015

My go-to pieces: overcoats, navy cashmere, and brow...

August 14th 2015

As readers never fail to point out, I have had a lot of bespoke items made over the past 10 years. But while I love pretty much all of them, some get a lot more use than others. These pieces become staples – the...

My go-to pieces: overcoats, navy cashmere, and brow...

As readers never fail to point out, I have had a lot of bespoke items made over the past 10 years. But while I love pretty much all of them, some get a lot more use than others. These pieces become staples – the...

Derby - OxfordAugust 14th 2015

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

A hot, formal evening in Florence

July 27th 2015

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against sta...

A hot, formal evening in Florence

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against sta...

Loafer - ShoesJuly 27th 2015

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

July 20th 2015

At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patc...

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patc...

Jackets - OxfordJuly 20th 2015

Grey cashmere and brown flannel: Caraceni and Abbarchi

July 1st 2015

Last week’s explanation of how I put an outfit together seemed to be popular, so let’s try that again. This outfit is simpler than last week’s. There are fewer colours, there’s no tie to worry ...

Grey cashmere and brown flannel: Caraceni and Abbarchi

Last week’s explanation of how I put an outfit together seemed to be popular, so let’s try that again. This outfit is simpler than last week’s. There are fewer colours, there’s no tie to worry ...

Derby - OxfordJuly 1st 2015

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

June 15th 2015

  Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasi...

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

  Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasi...

Bags - BootJune 15th 2015

Change your laces

May 25th 2015

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast i...

Change your laces

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast i...

Derby - OxfordMay 25th 2015

Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London

May 8th 2015

  Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s s...

Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London

  Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s s...

Oxford - ShoesMay 8th 2015

How shoes should fit

May 7th 2015

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A sh...

How shoes should fit

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A sh...

Boot - How toMay 7th 2015

Tony Gaziano: How Gaziano & Girling started

April 21st 2015

Last year I interviewed Tony Gaziano for this video, created by Essence Lifestyle (the questions were deliberately removed to create a single narration). It was interesting talking to Tony in more detail about his earl...

Tony Gaziano: How Gaziano & Girling started

Last year I interviewed Tony Gaziano for this video, created by Essence Lifestyle (the questions were deliberately removed to create a single narration). It was interesting talking to Tony in more detail about his earl...

ShoesApril 21st 2015

Bespoke Santoni shoes – Fatto a Mano Su Misura

March 11th 2015

Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I’m happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is w...

Bespoke Santoni shoes – Fatto a Mano Su Misura

Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I’m happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is w...

Derby - ShoesMarch 11th 2015

Norman Vilalta at Leffot in New York

March 5th 2015

With his customary humour, Norman Vilalta has created a (very) little video to announce his trunk show at Leffot in New York today and tomorrow. Go say hello if you can. ...

Norman Vilalta at Leffot in New York

With his customary humour, Norman Vilalta has created a (very) little video to announce his trunk show at Leffot in New York today and tomorrow. Go say hello if you can. ...

ShoesMarch 5th 2015

Green cotton trousers, photobombed

February 25th 2015

Green cotton trousers – the second part of the three-part commission from Spanish tailors Calvo de Mora. A lovely soft green moleskin from Scabal (Ascona, winter cotton, 501003) with a slightly longer nap. Non-En...

Green cotton trousers, photobombed

Green cotton trousers – the second part of the three-part commission from Spanish tailors Calvo de Mora. A lovely soft green moleskin from Scabal (Ascona, winter cotton, 501003) with a slightly longer nap. Non-En...

Oxford - ShoesFebruary 25th 2015

Santoni shoes

February 9th 2015

It might be surprising to see Santoni here. Their aesthetic is not of the kind normally featured on Permanent Style – a little too bright perhaps, a little too brash. But Santoni deserves a few words in its defen...

Santoni shoes

It might be surprising to see Santoni here. Their aesthetic is not of the kind normally featured on Permanent Style – a little too bright perhaps, a little too brash. But Santoni deserves a few words in its defen...

ShoesFebruary 9th 2015