My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Gingko’ l...

July 31st 2020

Baudoin & Lange recently launched a new, perhaps more conventional range to their shoes, called the Gingko. Allan asked me if I'd like to pick a colour or two of suede to make up in this style, and offer as part of the collection - as I did...

My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Gingko’ l...

Baudoin & Lange recently launched a new, perhaps more conventional range to their shoes, called the Gingko.  Allan asked me if I'd like to pick a colour or two of suede to make up in this style, and offer as part o...

ShoesJuly 31st 2020

My Summer shoes

July 29th 2020

  Shoes can be one of the trickiest areas for clothing in the summer. Unless we require a jacket, it’s pretty simple to wear a well-cut polo shirt on top and drapey linen trousers on the bottom, and stay cool. But shoes are always re...

My Summer shoes

  Shoes can be one of the trickiest areas for clothing in the summer.  Unless we require a jacket, it’s pretty simple to wear a well-cut polo shirt on top and drapey linen trousers on the bottom, and stay cool. ...

ShoesJuly 29th 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for ...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Introduction an...

July 8th 2020

Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I thought it would be good time to wri...

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Introduction an...

Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I though...

ShoesJuly 8th 2020

Espadrilles: Style, occasion, and brands

July 3rd 2020

UPDATE: This is a nice video from Diegos showing how espadrilles are made. You can see the better, neater hand sewing of the soles mentioned below. I remember clearly when I got my first pair of espadrilles. I was 19, on holiday in Spain, and bough...

Espadrilles: Style, occasion, and brands

UPDATE: This is a nice video from Diegos showing how espadrilles are made. You can see the better, neater hand sewing of the soles mentioned below.  I remember clearly when I got my first pair of espadrilles. I was 19,...

ShoesJuly 3rd 2020

What are the best cheaper shoe brands?

June 29th 2020

*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. Last month, Swedish shoe brand Myrqvist (above) sen...

What are the best cheaper shoe brands?

*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way.  Last month, Swedish ...

ShoesJune 29th 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

May 15th 2020

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Ander...

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, ...

Casual clothing - ShoesMay 15th 2020

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent ra...

April 20th 2020

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens. In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - both in terms of which shoes you...

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent ra...

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens.  In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - both ...

ShoesApril 20th 2020

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

April 17th 2020

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo. However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting. Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be getting to Tokyo every three years ...

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo.  However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting.  Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be get...

ShoesApril 17th 2020

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: The style and shop today

March 11th 2020

Yohei Fukuda is one of the finest shoemakers in the world. And given his longevity - he set up on his own 12 years ago - he’s been at the forefront of Japan emerging as the primary world force in bespoke. But like many Japanese, it's taken hi...

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: The style and shop today

Yohei Fukuda is one of the finest shoemakers in the world. And given his longevity - he set up on his own 12 years ago - he’s been at the forefront of Japan emerging as the primary world force in bespoke.  But like m...

ShoesMarch 11th 2020

Shoes in wet weather: How to deal with rain and s...

March 6th 2020

In the past week, perhaps as it has been particularly wet here, I’ve had three comments from readers on old posts about dealing with soaking-wet shoes. Those old posts were never very comprehensive, so here is something fuller - dealing with ...

Shoes in wet weather: How to deal with rain and s...

In the past week, perhaps as it has been particularly wet here, I’ve had three comments from readers on old posts about dealing with soaking-wet shoes.  Those old posts were never very comprehensive, so here is somet...

Alterations and care - ShoesMarch 6th 2020

Ascot Shoes ‘Kaan’ cordovan shoe: Review

February 3rd 2020

Last year Karl Chu offered to make me a pair of shoes under his Ascot Shoes label for review. I had known Karl (pictured below) for a while, but mostly through his hosting of bespoke shoemakers in London - such as Masaru Okuyama - in his old space ...

Ascot Shoes ‘Kaan’ cordovan shoe: Review

Last year Karl Chu offered to make me a pair of shoes under his Ascot Shoes label for review.  I had known Karl (pictured below) for a while, but mostly through his hosting of bespoke shoemakers in London - such as Mas...

ShoesFebruary 3rd 2020

Wearing black

January 22nd 2020

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...

Wearing black

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounce...

Coats - ShoesJanuary 22nd 2020

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

January 1st 2020

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months. Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experien...

Shoes - January 1st 2020

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new? What the atmosphere is like,...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit?  Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it?  Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or n...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

November 25th 2019

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small an...

Knitwear - ShoesNovember 25th 2019

How great things age: The Belgravia loafer from E...

September 20th 2019

Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out - and wears quicker when damp). So I was basically we...

How great things age: The Belgravia loafer from E...

Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days.  Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out - and wears quicker whe...

ShoesSeptember 20th 2019

Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...

September 18th 2019

So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...

Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...

So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each...

Casual clothing - Glasses and jewellerySeptember 18th 2019

The Trench Coat with casual wear

September 13th 2019

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...

The Trench Coat with casual wear

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothin...

Denim - HatsSeptember 13th 2019

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

September 11th 2019

Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your product...

Bags - ClothSeptember 11th 2019

Asking the next question: An interview with Kirby...

September 2nd 2019

I recently did this interview with Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project, as part of his Shoe Shine Sunday series. It's a little bit meandering (and my shirt seems determined to reveal more chest than anyone would want) but I think there are some inte...

Asking the next question: An interview with Kirby...

I recently did this interview with Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project, as part of his Shoe Shine Sunday series. It's a little bit meandering (and my shirt seems determined to reveal more chest than anyone would want) b...

ShoesSeptember 2nd 2019

Giving clothes a new lease of life: Jaunty Flaneu...

May 31st 2019

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to invest time and energy in your ex...

Giving clothes a new lease of life: Jaunty Flaneu...

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to invest ...

ShoesMay 31st 2019

Video: A conversation of cordwainers

May 22nd 2019

Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held in Carreducker's leather schoo...

Video: A conversation of cordwainers

Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held ...

Shoes - VideoMay 22nd 2019

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

April 24th 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived...

Bags - Casual clothingApril 24th 2019

The shoe Super Trunk in London – and best s...

March 29th 2019

Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this year). Super Trunk is great fun...

The shoe Super Trunk in London – and best s...

Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this year)...

ShoesMarch 29th 2019