The shoe Super Trunk in London – and best sho...

March 29th 2019

Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this year). Super Trunk is great fun...

The shoe Super Trunk in London – and best sho...

Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this year)...

ShoesMarch 29th 2019

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...

March 18th 2019

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling   The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is,...

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling   The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and pr...

ShoesMarch 18th 2019

The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review

March 4th 2019

At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how dependent the soft, open, low-soled ...

The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review

At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how dependent ...

ShoesMarch 4th 2019

Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes

February 13th 2019

  While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a first pair of bespo...

Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes

  While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about bu...

ShoesFebruary 13th 2019

The rules and how to break them 9: Tan shoes with p...

December 21st 2018

  The starting point for any decision about what shoes to wear with an outfit, is that they should be darker than the trousers. So with a charcoal trouser, a black shoe or very dark brown. With a mid-grey trouser, dark or mid-brown (below). ...

The rules and how to break them 9: Tan shoes with p...

  The starting point for any decision about what shoes to wear with an outfit, is that they should be darker than the trousers. So with a charcoal trouser, a black shoe or very dark brown. With a mid-grey trouser, d...

Shoes - StyleDecember 21st 2018

How to polish shoes: Part 2, polish and mirror shine

October 22nd 2018

  As with the first in our shoe polishing videos, this film is more discursive than most, with context and analysis around both the talk and the demonstration. Most videos on polishing just show one person doing what they do, and coming up ...

How to polish shoes: Part 2, polish and mirror shine

  As with the first in our shoe polishing videos, this film is more discursive than most, with context and analysis around both the talk and the demonstration. Most videos on polishing just show one person doing wh...

ShoesOctober 22nd 2018

How to polish shoes: Part 1, context and cream

October 15th 2018

For the next in our series of practical videos, I wanted to tackle shoe polishing. But, also to present it in a way that was more discursive, and explained rather than just taught. Most videos on polishing just show one person doing what they do, an...

How to polish shoes: Part 1, context and cream

For the next in our series of practical videos, I wanted to tackle shoe polishing. But, also to present it in a way that was more discursive, and explained rather than just taught. Most videos on polishing just show one...

ShoesOctober 15th 2018

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 19th 2018

Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling F...

September 3rd 2018

A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will always be the lightest - as with ...

Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling F...

A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will alw...

ShoesSeptember 3rd 2018

Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke

July 13th 2018

So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen, and have real character ...

Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke

So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen...

ShoesJuly 13th 2018

Paolo Scafora handmade shoes – Factory visit,...

June 13th 2018

Getting out of Naples early in the morning is not easy. Traffic is intense: bumper to bumper around the mountain roads leading out of the city, and through long, dark tunnels. By far the best way to get out is by scooter, rather than car. And that&r...

Paolo Scafora handmade shoes – Factory visit,...

Getting out of Naples early in the morning is not easy. Traffic is intense: bumper to bumper around the mountain roads leading out of the city, and through long, dark tunnels. By far the best way to get out is by scoote...

ShoesJune 13th 2018

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

May 2nd 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from dis...

Bags - Casual jacketsMay 2nd 2018

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

April 20th 2018

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the 100 Hands factory in Amritsa...

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit th...

Glasses and jewellery - ShirtsApril 20th 2018

Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two years ...

March 23rd 2018

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured above; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, each time gaining in confiden...

Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two years ...

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured above; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, eac...

ShoesMarch 23rd 2018

How to look after your shoes

January 12th 2018

This is the first in a series of videos that we will be doing over the coming months, looking at caring for good clothes. They will be instructional, but not too technical, and we plan to build them up slowly over the year - so for example, not try...

How to look after your shoes

This is the first in a series of videos that we will be doing over the coming months, looking at caring for good clothes.  They will be instructional, but not too technical, and we plan to build them up slowly over ...

ShoesJanuary 12th 2018

Gaziano & Girling introduces my loafer –...

January 8th 2018

The hatch-grain loafers I commissioned with Gaziano & Girling back in 2012 have consistently been among my favourite shoes - both for me and for readers. The mid-brown colour is tremendously versatile (everything from cream to mid-grey trous...

Gaziano & Girling introduces my loafer –...

The hatch-grain loafers I commissioned with Gaziano & Girling back in 2012 have consistently been among my favourite shoes - both for me and for readers. The mid-brown colour is tremendously versatile (everything fr...

ShoesJanuary 8th 2018

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers – Review

December 27th 2017

These bespoke suede loafers from Gaziano & Girling have been a while in the make - I last covered the first fitting back in September 2016. It hasn't taken over a year to get from that fitting to now, however. They were actually ready in th...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers – Review

These bespoke suede loafers from Gaziano & Girling have been a while in the make - I last covered the first fitting back in September 2016.  It hasn't taken over a year to get from that fitting to now, however. Th...

ShoesDecember 27th 2017

Baudoin & Lange women’s shoes (and Luca ...

November 24th 2017

A few menswear shoemakers have expanded into women’s shoes in recent years. These shoes will generally be a lot better made than the other women’s shoes in the market, and not necessarily more expensive (given the designer mark ups on th...

Baudoin & Lange women’s shoes (and Luca ...

A few menswear shoemakers have expanded into women’s shoes in recent years. These shoes will generally be a lot better made than the other women’s shoes in the market, and not necessarily more expensive (given the d...

Knitwear - ShoesNovember 24th 2017

Stivaleria Savoia bespoke shoes: Review

November 13th 2017

When I cover an artisan where I’m genuinely interested in the product - its quality, design and often heritage or story, I have something made. I then tend to cover the maker in one, initial post that explains their product and background; and...

Stivaleria Savoia bespoke shoes: Review

When I cover an artisan where I’m genuinely interested in the product - its quality, design and often heritage or story, I have something made. I then tend to cover the maker in one, initial post that explains their ...

ShoesNovember 13th 2017

Enzo Bonafe hand-welted shoes – factory visit

October 16th 2017

Enzo Bonafe is one of only two men’s shoe factories left in the area around Bologna, Italy. The other is Testoni, and when Enzo left Testoni to set up his own factory, in 1963, there were more than 40 factories in the region. It has been a rap...

Enzo Bonafe hand-welted shoes – factory visit

Enzo Bonafe is one of only two men’s shoe factories left in the area around Bologna, Italy. The other is Testoni, and when Enzo left Testoni to set up his own factory, in 1963, there were more than 40 factories in th...

ShoesOctober 16th 2017

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

October 13th 2017

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on those being discussed. So in ...

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus o...

Denim - KnitwearOctober 13th 2017

How to wear trainers: Part 2. Quality

October 6th 2017

In recent years, as premium trainers/sneakers have increasingly popular, readers have asked for my view on when they might be appropriate, and when they are, what they should buy. I covered that last point in the first part of this series, ‘1:...

How to wear trainers: Part 2. Quality

In recent years, as premium trainers/sneakers have increasingly popular, readers have asked for my view on when they might be appropriate, and when they are, what they should buy. I covered that last point in the first ...

ShoesOctober 6th 2017

Accessories for holiday

August 7th 2017

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday this summer. 1 Bower &...

Accessories for holiday

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on.  So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holida...

Bags - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 7th 2017

What I pack when I travel

July 19th 2017

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, any travelling wardro...

What I pack when I travel

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of...

Bags - Casual jacketsJuly 19th 2017

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

July 14th 2017

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European brands ( Charvet, Car Shoe, Stile...

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European bra...

Bags - Belts and walletsJuly 14th 2017