Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights 

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Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full article (eg jeans at Bryceland’s).

They’re also a nice way to revisit brands we haven’t discussed for a while, such as P Johnson. Sometimes it feels like brands only get one opportunity to be covered on PS, but everyone evolves and adapts over time, especially relatively young brands. 

If anyone has any detailed questions about the products, including points like sizing, please do ask in the comments. 

1 Wythe washed-flannel shirt, also at No Man Walks Alone


Wythe just opened their first store, and we visited last week when we were in New York. Although still unfinished, founder Peter Middleton’s Americana-driven vision was very clear, with Navajo blankets on the walls and a pair of old cowboy boots hanging on the door. In fact it makes you wonder why there aren’t other American brands competing with RRL for this space, given how relevant the casual-but-collared vibe is. 

The clothes are often a little softer and lighter than similar pieces from Japanese brands we cover, or the likes of Bryceland’s. But that's deliberate and the prices are rather lower - with this flannel £159 compared to over £200 at many of those brands.

There’s also a really lovely eye for colour, most obviously in the shirts like the pink/grey above. It’s surprisingly rare to see these flannels in colour combinations that feel both attractive and flattering, but the Wythe range really nails it. You feel Peter's experience on fabric development at Ralph Lauren perhaps coming through, also on unusual but great colours like this lovely faded-green sweatshirt.

I mention No Man Walks Alone because they’ve stocked Wythe for a while, and recently set up an EU store that is easier for those in continental Europe to purchase from. 

2 P Johnson quarter-zip rain top


P Johnson closed their larger London store a while ago, but they have a neat little showroom in Fitzrovia on Percy Street, which is by appointment only. It’s worth a look, both because the casual side has expanded since we covered them six years ago, and because some of the tailoring has changed - more relaxed, less standard Italian, perhaps more P Johnson. 

As with Wythe, this is not the quality of a Connolly or a Private White, but the prices reflect that and there are some really nicely designed pieces. My favourite is the quarter-zip pictured above, which has a pleasingly tight waist and big body. It’s simple but flattering. 

The shiny synthetic they have as the default isn’t to my taste, but there are matte options and a possibility to make to order with Loro Piana Storm System (both at higher prices). In fact it’s worth noting that everything in London apart from shirts, knits and shoes is MTO. That means you have to wait four weeks, but it also means you can pick your body and sleeve length, as well as the material. 

3 Colhay’s cashmere alpine quarter-zip


Speaking of quarter zips, one of Colhay’s three new designs this Autumn is the only quarter-zip knit I think I would wear. I’ve always had a prejudice against them, I think because I see so many guys wear them poorly, with a stiff dress shirt for example. Something without the hardware seems more elegant. 

But this version has a higher collar, more akin to a rollneck, and a deeper zip, reaching to the middle of the chest. It makes a feature of it and, like a deep V-neck, looks more flattering. In a really nice, heavy cashmere rib, it feels sporty and you can see the reference to old skiing knits. As ever, I also like the Colhay’s deep, muddy colours, such as the olive green pictured. 

4 Bowhill & Elliot velvet slippers


I’ve liked the idea of smart slippers with more casual things like jeans for a while - which I’m sure won’t surprise people; it’s hardly new. But most of the time the combinations weren’t for me, whether it was the embroidered initials, the bright patterns or the Grecian style. So I thought I’d try something plainer, like this simple black velvet from Bowhill & Elliot. 

They’ve worked out well - I went for the Albert-style slipper with a red lining and Venetian rounded tongue (rather than the standard square one above). They have to be made to order, but much of the Bowhill range works like that anyway. Nice with some dark denim and a simple T-shirt or shirt. 

5 Bally leather jacket


Bally isn’t a designer brand that gets talked about much, but they have an interesting mix of classic styles and more fashion ones, and are pretty good value. The leather jacket here, for instance, is made in a really lovely calfskin, a modern rather than classic or fashion-y cut, and is £1500.  

The range includes plenty of logoed hoodies and T-shirts, plus some pieces that are probably too showy for most readers - like a full-length green-leather trench. But there are also clothes that sit in between, such as a plain leather bomber in an exaggerated fit, or a boldly striped knit. And the quality is consistent. If you like the idea of exploring different styles but find most fashion brands off-putting, Bally is worth a look. 

6 Bryceland’s 133s jeans


Bryceland’s recently brought out an indigo denim in the cut of the black jeans I have, the 933. It’s a really lovely fit: mid-rise verging on high, generous in the thigh and seat so it fits a lot of guys, and then tapered in the lower leg. 

The new ones, the 133s, are made in a left-hand twill rather than the more standard right-hand used on denim, which is a touch smoother (though not something you’d likely notice unless it was pointed out). As is always the case with fabrics, the weave only tells you so much, and it remains the case that most left-hand twills are softer and more mainstream - just not these. 

The denim is also more stable and shrinks less, so I ended up with a size 31 compared to the 32 I had taken in the black 933. 

7 Canons slide-handle portfolio


I visited the lovely team at Canons bespoke shoes last month and will be covering them (like Wythe) in more detail soon. For now in this format, I just wanted to mention their leather goods, which are perfectly made - as in, exactly what you should expect from English top-end product: hand-sewn, bridle leather, oak-bark tanned, with solid-brass hardware. 

A lot of the English shoemakers used to offer similar top-end leather goods, but since the Tanner Krolle factory closed down, there’s less of it about. Dunhill also does less at its Walthamstow factory, and the new Swaine products are nice but not hand-sewn.  

8 Nanamica mohair fleece


Although I don’t wear them much (the closest thing I have is a big Real McCoy’s one that’s more coat than fleece) I understand why fleeces are so popular for guys at the weekend. Halfway between a sweater and a jacket, they feel practical yet as soft and cosy as a knit. 

I can also imagine Permanent Style readers not wanting the same Patagonia as everyone else, and perhaps something without the branding. This Nanamica model, currently at Trunk, is nice in that regard: dark menswear navy or subtle beige, in a mohair/wool/nylon mix that is practical and soft, but benefits from not having all the nylon of most fleeces.  

Below, the Wythe store in New York

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Elio Gianni

While I agree on everything else, I have to vehemently disagree on the Bally Jacket. Our in house repair atelier, although usually only accepting our own products, repairs a fair amount third party stuff that longtime clients bring in as a favour. Being in Switzerland, this means a lot of Bally stuff. This means shoes, bags, jackets etc. Basically all their leather stuff.
Ballys products are consistently the most disappointing among all the “high end / high quality designer” stuff concerning quality. The leathers always feel plasticky and age very very bad. Nearly all times it is extremely heavily finished and does not really develop any patina. The colour stays the same even on tan leathers and instead it just gets weird wrinkles like a trash bag. In the end all the fancy burnished toes etc flake of, meaning they where not properly burnished or dyed, just some paint and waxes on top… A bit like your Foster & Sons Shoes.
The workmanship although not terrible is far below the pricepoint even for a “high quality designer brand”. Working in the production of leather goods, I can tell you, they have crazy markups. The shoes for example should not cost more than half of the price, even when considering, that the Scribe line is produced in Switzerland.
The design although subjective, I find to be too safe to be an actual designer piece yet trying to hard to be edgy to be a true core wardrobe piece, especially coupled with the quality issues. In Switzerland we call it “Bünzlig”, closest translation would be to call them a bit stuck up and bland.
Really curious why you recommend them. 10-15 years ago they actually were fairly decent quality although still a bit too expensive. It really started to go downhill once the planned aquisition by Shandong Ruyi fell through during covid.
In summary I agree on the quality being consistent. Consistently bad that is! Working in the Swiss shoe industry it is fairly disappointing to see how flagship of the Swiss clothing industry could fall so low…

Elio Gianni

The trench coat is actually a piece I like and could see myself wearing. Had to pop into their store at Bahnhofstrasse in Zürich on my way home after your reply on some leathers being unfinished! Point taken on this one! 😉 Overall though their “conservative” stuff to me is always a lot of money for something I could buy more interesting things either from proper menswear brands like you etc. Or go for a full on designer brand like 45R for the denim for example (cost not more than Bally’s stuff) or a proper leather brand like Cromford that is not that much more expensive for leather blousons etc or a workwear brand for rough stuff etc.
On the treated leathers, even if they use a nice aniline box calf on their shoes for example, they then heavily finish it in house. They often treat various nice skins I would never dream of slathering something on top. And it is this finish, that starts to flake of after a few years… Quite a shame actually, some of their skins are fairly decent and sometimes very nice even…
Although they might be doing things differently at the moment. I was pleasently supprised with some of the stuff I just handled! Some seemed to be heavily finished like always, the Jacket you featured is not or only very very lightly and some others too seem to be left fairly raw… So maybe things are looking better again!
In conclusion I have to revise my statement and agree that some of their clothing is now again fairly nice. Although their shoes are still sh**. 😉


Thought I’d jump in here since you’ve touched on Bally flip flopping with its design ethos/direction over the years. Could even be a topic you could delve deeper into at some point. I have a black Bally boot over 20 years old that just gets softer and more beautiful with age … the last time I bought anything from the label. Several other brands too, I have carefully avoided when it feels they want to take me places I do not wish to go.

Johnny Foreigner

How does one visit a shop by appointment only unless one is prepared to buy something no matter what? It rather precludes browsing, or even browsing with intent but not purchasing anything.


Thank you for mentioning Canons as I’ve been looking for more options for a portfolio.

This section of their website is very cool Notable Lasts – Canons. I don’t want to just repeat all of the names but to see the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Paul Newman, Mick Jagger, Tony Curtis and so on in one place is unique. Also Peter Sellers seems to have had an unusual foot shape.

Peter Hall

I declare an interest in quarter zips and I have several. A couple of my prized ones have now been relegated to gardening duties and ,under no circumstances, to wear them whilst in polite company.

Anyway,it’s always the weight, I think heavy is best and substitute for a top layer,but that leads us to the need for a heavy,uncomfortable zip. Light weight usually means cheaper zip and they always seem to break.

Nice round up ,Simon. Your Ivy style is peeking out again.

A good thing.


Have you tried andersen-andersen? Their Knits are very heavy and they also have a clean Troyer/Half Zip in their Line-Up!


The Whythe shirt colours and fabric look really interesting especially how they use indigo. Did you by any chance look at their chambray shirts and material? The sunfaded one on their website looks right up my street.


Appreciate the reply Simon. Having recently tried a few RRL, great material, unfortunately the sleeves were a tad short with M. The Wythe Medium looks generous from the chest measurements, does that reflect in the rest of the body? Only downside is the Small sleeves seem a tad short.


Thanks Simon. I thought I’d give it a go, but the landed price works out to be £227, which I feel is just a tad too high for a blind purchase. A shame!


Hi Simon,
Did you pick an M for the flannel shirt? How was the fit, and do you think an S would have worked as well?


Can this flannel shirt be safely slimmed by an alterations tailor, or would the pattern of the shirt make it difficult?
Would you have darts placed, or have the shirt slimmed at the side seams?

Ben L

I have that shirt. One of the slubbier chambrays that I’ve come across, and it really shines with the distressing. The sunfading effect is very subtle in most light, less apparent than in the product shots I’ve seen. Throat latch and the tonal buttons are fun details. I’m a 15.5 and the M fits me comfortably in the shoulders and sleeves, but not particularly roomy in the body. For some reason, Wythe’s cuffs always fit me unusually loosely, as if they have watch allowances for G-shocks on both wrists, and that’s true in this shirt as well.


Thanks for that Ben, Yea the colour looks really nicely done! I usually am a 15, but generally in between 15/15.5, seems 15 would be ok, but the landing price to the UK feels high. On my list to visit them when I go NYC next year though.

Joe P

Love these seasonal highlights lists, Simon. Usually one or two things I really want (like the Wythe flannel shirt: lovely colours and buttons) and always brands & things I’m unfamiliar with that I’m interested to read about.

I’m a big Colhay’s fan already but had shied away from the half-zip top, precisely due to the connotations you mention. But you make a great case for it: the devil’s in the details, as ever with menswear. I wondered what you made of their lambswool rugby shawl sweater? Not seen it in person but I think the pics look great: flattering collar, thick ribbed hem and that Rubato-esque shorter length. And as you point out, they always seem to get their colours just right.


I recently picked up a zip neck very similar to the Colhays one, in a British racing green at 70% discount. Can’t understand why nobody picked it up. It’s been a great thing to put on on chilly evenings in front of the TV as well as under a light jacket with the neck zipped up at the playground with denim.
Great recommendation.

Paul H

Thanks Simon, really enjoy these seasonal “highlight” lists as they help bring focus to the ocean options. The Wythe flannel in particular caught my eye and I agree the color is fantastic.

Please elaborate on zip neck aversion if you don’t mind. I’ll confess to pairing chunkier versions in muted colors with OCBDs, tees or polos and jeans. I like how the stand up collar frames the face. I too noted the Colhay version and like the ribbing, taller collar and deeper zip. It may go on my short list. Can I ask what size you took?


The Nanamica is listed as being polyester rather than nylon on one part of the Trunk website and as nylon on another. I’ve noticed a few websites you/we talk about on here giving inaccurate information about the products they sell recently, baudoin & lange being listed as made in London on a few sites when B&L themselves say they aren’t.

Given the typical eye for details in this field these seem fairly sloppy errors or maybe in some cases a made in London tag is considered better for driving sales irrespective of the reality.


Does anyone have a recommendation for house-slippers similar like those from Bowhill & Elliot above but with soft-sole? I have a pair of Sagan Lune which unfortunately have been proven to be too delicate playing with the kids on the floor (and are discontinued). I only wear them when I go to someones house. Yes, I am that kind of crazy person who takes with his house shoes when he’s invited. I had a pair of Velasca Friulane which I loved, but the sole came off after 2 years or so. So quality should be better. It could also be a mule. My wife keeps suggesting Birkenstocks. But I can’t.


I have the Virgil men’s slipper you can buy on Gundog Affair. They are made from deer leather in a versatile dark brown, have a soft leather sole and are cashmere lined. The price is EUR 160, which I find quite moderate for the quality you get. I use them and find them perfect, when I am invited to someone else’s house for dinner or brunch. In Austria the custom is that when your arrive at somebody else’s place the host will tell you to keep your shoes own while expecting that everybody will take their street shoes off (in fact it would be very rude to not do that). Hence, it is either socks the cheap flannel hotel slippers that nearly everybody has for guests or something like this.

david rl fan

no detail that i could see on the sole though

Sean Breezie

Hello, I’m sure Bowhill and Elliott offer a plastic sole option.

Give them a call.


Hi Simon
reading the Bally point below I wanted to check if any sponsorship was received for this list?


Probably you wanted to say “never” instead of “ever”.


Hi Simon, after reading your post about black Brycelands Jeans I decided to buy a pair as I really wanted a good pair of black jeans.

Sadly they are not for me, cloth is soft and feel is good but that’s it; in my humble opinion they are overpriced for what they are. I would expect them to use a selvedge denim and have a decent make but sadly I feel the make is really primitive, one can get a pair with similar quality from anywhere less than £50. I regret I didn’t go for Blakchorse Lane which make is solid and denim is quality. In another note now just placed order for Lot 1.


Hi Simon. My understanding is that the term ‘selvedge’ refers to the self-finished edges on each side of fabric woven on shuttle looms. Usually, these edges don’t fray or unravel. Unfortunately, this is not the case with the pair of Bryceland’s jeans I bought, so I don’t think they are selvedge. Although my main issue is the make not the cloth. Secondly, the overall quality is not great (perhaps I’m being spoiled by buying mostly bespoke). For example, the buttonhole stitching is awful, the fly is not a one-piece fly which would help with strength and tidiness, the belt loop stitches are not neat, and they are not sewn into the waistband for strength. Additionally, the back pockets don’t have an additional lining piece, which would be great for extra durability if I plan to wear them daily. Anyway, lesson learned!


I loved the concept of your DB tweed overcoat and nearly all of what is in shop. I read your articles every release and love the sartorial guides.
However, I can not hold my lack of enthusiasm for some of the products above.
The button up fleece and zip up cashmere, have never worked for me even though I have too many of them. The collars just never sit right unless fully up when they sit right but look terrible. The answer is to master the complexities of a scarf.
The pullover rain top is a no on so many levels, elasticated waist and cuffs for a grown man. But the uncoolest thing will be to take it off in company. Ohh yes, imagine being on a date and having to remove your raingear over your head!
Lastly, but not least is your love of slippers. I get fixated on some stuff, I just do, I think it works, because I’ve seen a scenario when it worked or nearly worked but they don’t really. And I am afraid slippers are your Kryptonite.


You run the finest sartorial website in the world, best most consistent blogs, sensibly commercial, offering great products in line with principles and not biased in what you promote, e.g. if it does not match your qualitative points it is not promoted.
Every word above is sincere.
We all appreciate what you do.
But for me slippers are a love not to mention.
And pullover wet gear is not sartorial in any universe.


Wythe looks great and with a very reasonable pricing. Do they have a shop in NY ?

Sir C

There are multiple mills, and brands, who supply 100% wool fleece products. (Synthetic) fleece jackets are a major source of microplastics. I’ll readily admit having yet to find a pure wool jacket as stylish as the one in the article, or Drake’s’, but until then, I’ll just stick with other midlayers. One planet, etc.


Just want to recommend a guppy friend bag to everyone being concerned about microplastic and using synthetic fleece. It is impressive to see how fibers accumulate.


There are no advantages to synthetics. Wool has always been the best “performance” fiber. Ruskovilla in Finland makes a pure organic merino wool fleece zip jacket, for those that like the style. Wool fleece knit in Germany. Jacket made in Finland.


There might be some argument for synthetic in outer shell, although I think there are suitable and sometimes even better natural options for this, too. But particularly for insulation, which is what a fleece is, wool is always better. In addition to being better for health and environment, if you use your clothing in dangerous conditions, wool will keep you alive when synthetics (and even some other natural fibers) might not. Wool breathes well. And wool continues to insulate even when wet, something synthetic does not do.


For many uses, I think extra-long staple, tightly woven cotton makes a suitably resistant and much nicer outer shell than synthetic. The Burberry gabardine cloth is a famous example of this. EtaProof Organic or Ventile Organic from Stotz are an option. It has to be the organic version, as the standard version uses fluorocarbons–although, I think the mill is now reporting that the standard version no longer uses fluorocarbons.
In wool, the Austrian loden cloths have always had a reputation for durability and resistance. There is also the French Bonneval cloth from Arpin with a similar reputation and heritage of use in Alpine environments and rough conditions. And of course many British tweeds have served well in outdoor use for centuries–and even lanolin-rich knitwear.
I would always recommend the fibers, yarns, and cloths without any fluorocarbon or nanotechnology treatments.


It has been awhile since I have been on any significant expeditions or used anything more than simple cotton shirts or wool sweaters for outdoor pursuits.
The EtaProof and Ventile will resist water for some time, but then do eventually saturate, when the fibers swell and then continue to shed water. It is this behavior that has made these cloths a favorite of some trekkers, when using them in a double layer and/or with wool insulation beneath they continue to maintain functionality and warmth.
In addition, the EtaProof and Ventile are quiet, breathable, and will not ignite or melt with embers or flames like synthetics can. Wool is the best for natural fire resistance.
Of course, again, to get the health and environmental benefits of the natural fibers, they need to be without fluorocarbon or nanotechnology treatments.


What size would you wear in the P Johnson piece? I’ve had it saved for a while, but the size chart is a bit strange.


I have a pair of Bowhill & Elliot slippers purchased around a year ago (same style that you went with, but in a herringbone tweed) and I’ve really enjoyed them. I am considering another pair in velvet. They do stand out a bit, but that’s probably just because I’m in the US and it’s not a native style. In any event, they go very well with the type of casual clothes I tend to wear during the colder months, so they work for me.

Ben L

Responding to “In fact it makes you wonder why there aren’t other American brands competing with RRL for this space, given how relevant the casual-but-collared vibe is.”

You might consider checking out Freenote Cloth. I own a pair of their jeans, which are on par with any of the Japanese brands I’ve tried, and have tried on a couple of their shirts, which also seem to be very well crafted.


Simon, were you able to review any of the new Wythe coats for this season? There are a few intriguing options, particularly the faded peacoat for a more casual option. (BTW I have your bridge coat collaboration with Private White and wear it ofter, fantastic piece)


Hi Simon,
Great call on the Colhays half-zip alpine sweater. I have one in black and it is fantastic. The length of the zip is perfect – not too short as is often the case in 1/4 zips trying to be mid-layers. Collar is a good height too. I wear it as outerwear or under a big coat. Ribbed knit is a nice texture.
I don’t think it works with a shirt at all – much better with a t-shirt, roll neck or fine crew neck underneath.
Size was bang on for me – I ordered 2 and ended up returning the larger size which was unusual for me. Ronnie was great about this – the return/refund was very easy and I recommend buying different sizes and shopping this way.


Have you other Colhays pieces Mark? Just trying to decide how sizing compares to their other pieces, all of which I have had to size up to a 42. Thanks


The Wythe flannels are a great way to get into western/pearl snap shirts for those (like me) who had hesitated. The snaps aren’t nearly as obvious on the plaid as they are on solid shirts.


Nice reading. You are inspiring me on ideas for my blog. Thanks


A timely article with reference to the Wythe flannel shirts – as the temperatures have dipped I have been looking for a flannel shirt recently but have found some of the red and blue colours that are generally available just too loud. The Logger Plaid looks the nicest to my eye. Is there scope for them to ship to the UK do you know – I would assume the NMWA EU shop wouldn’t work for us here? I would think it’s only a matter of time until one of the London shops becomes a stockist.


Simon, I’ve got a fit question around jeans. How much difference would you ideally want between your measured thigh and the thigh of the jeans? Thanks


I remember you enjoying a SNS Hearing Half Zip some time ago. I wonder if that experience with it has led you to the conclusion, that they are not for you.
I always loved the style of these half zips, it’s a very nautical Design (I think in Germany they’re widely called Troyer). But then again I think I’m very much into nautical stuff like that. When they’re as heavy as this one I think they’ll only work with a T-Shirt or a Longsleeve underneath. Maybe an OCBD, but the collar usually does not sit nice under it then. A big plus is the practicality of them: Once you feel too hot you can just pull the zip down and then enjoy some cool down, while if you need the warmth (especially around the neck) you just pull it up. I love that about them!

Oliver Price

Picked up a pair of the Bryceland’s jeans at the weekend and I’m wearing them today. The denim’s really nice and I love the fit, particularly the higher rise. I’d already bought the Colhay’s knit before the article was published – I went for the dark brown rather than the olive and I’m really pleased with it.


Simon, perhaps, I’m mistaken with the slippers, but are you advocating wearing them outdoors? Isn’t there a risk they look a bit dainty and also ill suited to AW conditions? I would be keen to see how they defer so much to a Belgian

Justin Givens

Hi Simon-
I also love the Brycelands fit (essentially what I previously went to Lot 1 for- higher rise, bigger thigh, conservative taper).
That said, the 32s I just received in indigo are great but I’m considering whether to try and move down to a 31 for the snugger waist. Did you find the 133s also stretched out to approx. 83 cm in the waist (like your black ones)? Thanks.


Hi Simon,

Hope all is well. What would you say are the best places in London to buy jeans? And, separately, the best places to get them done bespoke?

Apologies for the somewhat generic question.

Many thanks,


Hi Simon. How would you say the Brycelands 133S compare to the Rubato jeans ? If Im not mistaken you had a pair of those at one stage too ? Thanks !


Dear Simon,
did you go for the Venetian Model with the velvet slippers?
Do you think it makes sense to use shoe trees with such slippers?