Assisi double-breasted navy blazer: Review
I’ve settled into a bit of a rhythm with Korean tailors Assisi now. I love their soft-but-elegant style, I trust their fit and execution, and I know their double-breasted in particular is something I wear the hell out of. So my next commissio...
Assisi double-breasted navy blazer: Review
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That could be very nice Jack, but it would feel like a kind of outerwear piece like the one we discussed that Seiji had made. The cloth is quite strong and robust and you'd want it fitted fairly loosely...
The Permanent Style awards 2025: Results
Three weeks ago, we ran our annual Permanent Style awards where you, lovely readers, voted for your favourite brands and favourite things. There were over 400 responses - on the article and on social - and I’ve produced some of the results bel...
The Permanent Style awards 2025: Results
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I expect you are aware of the connection between UniqLo and the very ‘influential’ “Take Ivy”. A very interesting and wonderful phenomenon!...
Hermes Sac a Depeches: How Great Things Age
We haven’t one of these for a while – the last was Lucas’s canvas bag from Charlie Borrow – so I thought it would be good to do one on a recent acquisition of mine. I loved Lucas’s bag; I even pr...
Hermes Sac a Depeches: How Great Things Age
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It's their Barenia leather Thomas. That's the type and the colour. Togo leather doesn't darken with age or create any variety of colour like you see here. Some people like that, some don't. And thank you!...
A tonal exercise in 14 looks
One of the things that first attracted me to Rubato as a brand was their style: that particular mix of laid-back Ivy and tonal Scandinavian (ref. our five casual paradigms ). It managed to feel refreshing yet familiar. Style is more important to th...
A tonal exercise in 14 looks
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This is a super helpful article. I’ve never avoided black the way I suspect a lot of us have, but I’ve not exactly embraced it, either, and have generally just paired it with navy or burgundies. This and other guides...
Belt capsule guide: The basics
There’s been a lot more interest in belts with smarter clothing in recent years - something I highlighted and explained my reasoning for in this article . But we’ve never done a ‘wardrobe building’ piece on them, or set out ...
Belt capsule guide: The basics
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Yes, I'd wear alligator/crocodile with any calf or other exotic shoe, just focus on the colour. I like the Rubato ones, but they are a lot more expensive now. I wear my Silver Ostrich with any brown suede shoe really - t...
London pop-up(s)! Details for the two events, plu...
It’s taken us longer to get the London pop-up shop organised this year, largely because Savile Row and its environs are now increasingly filled up. But we finally have confirmation, and I can announce that we will be in our old space at 20 Sav...
London pop-up(s)! Details for the two events, plu...
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Hey Dan - no photos this time I'm afraid, as we didn't do drinks and so on. Next time though definitely!...
Friday Polos, Linen Overshirts and T-shirts: The ...
There are quite a few things to catch up on with regards to PS products, and it feels like readers have quite a few questions too, given the number that have come up in comments. So it might be good to have all of those answered in one place. First,...
Friday Polos, Linen Overshirts and T-shirts: The ...
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No I think it would be fine, the Alden isn't a strong shade which helps...
Outfits that define my week: Video with Bucherer
The watch company Bucherer recently made a 'Day in the Life' video about me, which they shared on their social media and I've included below. It includes some nice points about Permanent Style - how proud I am of the community it's become over the y...
Outfits that define my week: Video with Bucherer
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I'm not a foodie (Lucas will be able to say more) but I really like it. Nice relaxed atmosphere, good food and cocktails...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was a...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
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I don't think the tie is an issue Conor, but the tweedy jacket and flannel trousers might mean an oxford is better, yes...
A vintage shopping day in New York
Recently myself, photographer Alex Natt and Carl and Oliver from Rubato (above) spent a day vintage shopping in New York. It was a lot of fun, and also I think interesting for those that are fairly new to vintage, or can find the process frustrating...
A vintage shopping day in New York
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Absolutely. Hopefully going back next week when I'm in NY for our book event at The Armoury...
My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...
My favourite jeans largely come from brands that make in Japan, using Japanese denim, but that tweak the fit to make it their own. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that they’re also classic-menswear brands, who make or at least a...
My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...
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Thank you!...
Wearing black shoes with jeans
This is something I’ve had questions about recently - I assume because fashion generally has taken a turn towards black and, combined with the general casualisation going, black shoes and jeans have become a more common styling choice. So the ...
Wearing black shoes with jeans
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Yes I think so. Black cordovan has some advantages - tougher, for example - and it has a slightly different look in the way it takes polish and waves rather than wrinkles, but they're minor....
Pop-up shops for 2024 – in London and New York
I'm pleased to say the dates are fixed for two pop-ups this year - in London next month and then in New York in October. In three weeks we will be back on Savile Row, kindly hosted by New & Lingwood in their space at No.19. This worked well ...
Pop-up shops for 2024 – in London and New York
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Thank you Max, that's so nice to hear...
Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests
It was effing freezing in Paris two weeks ago: officially minus five, felt like minus ten. I know that’s not extreme if you live in Sweden or North Dakota, but it’s not the kind of weather you’re used to in London, I can tell you. ...
Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests
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I made mine with Yves Salomon in London. Their headquarters is in Paris. Most furriers would be able to make something though....
Journal article on my children
I wrote a little piece for the Rubato journal this weekend, about how good my children's instinct is for clothing. They nearly always give a good steer, I think because they're both very observant and know me very well. You can read it here. The coa...
Journal article on my children
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My 9 .year old son has been saying for years "can I have that when I am older?" almost on a weekly basis. It could be something that was outwardly cool in his eyes (that may have made me look younger) or something that i...
Eight outfits I liked at Pitti – and why
Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain. My ti...
Eight outfits I liked at Pitti – and why
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🙏...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
by Philipp Fröhlich Between 1966 and 1970, Barnett Newman, a prominent figure in abstract expressionism, painted four versions of a painting he called ‘Who's Afraid of Red, Yellow and Blue’ (above). I assume Newman foresaw the intim...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
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My rule is akin to the doctors' oath to "first do no harm". In other words, with an outfit, avoid major blunders and you have done 90% of what's needed. If a tie is dramatic in pattern, the shirt and jacket must be subdu...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
This jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni has become one of my real favourites in the past couple of years, and I think it’s worth exploring why. It says something about where tailoring is today, at least for me. It was made in 2021 by Nicoletta C...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
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Hello Simon, yes absolutely! Thank you very much!...
Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!
Permanent Style reader, this is not for you. This is intended for your wife/husband/partner/child/dog, in an attempt to help source a Christmas present for someone who, let’s face it, is very fussy in general but particularly about clothing. ...
Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!
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I'd go off the shoes primarily, and I think both suede or leather would be fine, I don't think leather would be too smart...
The weekend gilet or vest
As colder weather has arrived recently, there have been a few questions from readers about gilets or vests. It’s not a category we’ve covered in much detail, so Alex and I took a bunch to the studio last week and had a play with a few ou...
The weekend gilet or vest
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ah ok, I think I understand. I still have a lot to learn so I'll take my time to decide where to go next for my wardrobe....
Reader profile: Sebastian
Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar...
Reader profile: Sebastian
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Saman Amel does. P Johnson for some things...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
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Yes, I'd say a tie isn't necessary but that sounds nice Jack. I would play with the jacket done up and undone and see how you feel...
Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up
Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people - more, perhaps, than London. There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Edwards loafers; Duncan, the kn...
Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up
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That's so lovely to hear, thank you Robert...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
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I don't know what the quality difference might be I'm afraid, as I'm not so familiar with Drago on that score...
We’re coming back to New York (and bringing...
The pop-up shop we did last year with Rubato and Taillour went really well, so we're coming back to New York in October, with the addition shoemaker Seiji McCarthy (shoes below). This time we'll be on Christopher Street, with J Mueser kindly letting...
We’re coming back to New York (and bringing...
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Thank you Robert, it was lovely seeing you too...