Eight outfits I liked at Pitti – and why

Friday, January 19th 2024
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Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain. 

My time was evenly split between fittings with several tailors - including two that were over from Korea so we could finish those commissions - and seeing suppliers. Although there too, there are fewer of interest than pre-Covid. 

On the plus side, there were plenty of outfits to interest and stimulate. Not as big a contingent of Japanese buyers still, which is a real lack, but plenty of tourists and others. The parties seem to get bigger almost in proportion to the reduction in makers.

Here are a few of my favourites, with notes and thoughts. If anyone wants the specific brands shown, let me know and I’ll get them from the people featured. My outfits will be built into separate upcoming articles, as per usual. 

Jamie Ferguson


I think it’s fair to say Jamie sometimes dresses more simply than he used to, and I really love the combinations where the interest is all in the details. 

A Fair Isle cardigan is never an easy thing to wear, given the strong patterns and colours, but this is a great way to do it - a simple background of white shirt, beige chinos and brown belt, with everything worn in a very relaxed manner (rolled sleeves, undone buttons). 

The interesting details are the western touches on the shirt (snaps, pockets) and the double knees on the Carhartt chinos. Of course, as with all these outfits, it’s easy to make the outfit more everyday by just going for a regular shirt and chinos.

Chad Park


Chad from B&Tailor wears quite a lot of pale tailoring combinations, which look good on him but can be a little much for me. There are often colours in there I like the look of together and want to emulate though. 

Here I wouldn’t necessarily wear the pale suit, beige coat and white rollneck together, but I love the mint green scarf with it, and the black accessories. I have a similarly coloured knit from Rubato I might try with those colours. 

Jack Collins


Jack is a reader and attendee at PS events, and I liked this shot of him because it illustrates something I’ve always said about corduroy: that grey works so much better than navy. 

It’s understandable to think navy would be the most versatile option for a cord suit if you don’t want the country colours of brown or green. But navy can look a little dusty, a little old and tired. Grey, on the other hand, always has something sophisticated about it. 

Oliver Dannefalk


Oliver from Rubato is a good one to watch for ‘casual chic’ forms of dressing, given he rarely wears tailoring but always looks well-dressed - as could be said to be the Rubato philosophy. 

Here that’s pale chinos, a navy V-neck, a white T-shirt and a navy DB coat. But interestingly, also a little scarf tucked into the V, which is something I never really do, usually preferring a crewneck. This outfit made me reconsider, as the scarf is both a little easier to keep tucked into a V-neck, and stops that nineties V-neck/T-shirt combination from being boring. 

Buzz Tang


Buzz always does eveningwear well - I tend to prefer his outfits in smarter tailoring than more casual ones. And an interesting question he often tackles is what jackets can double up as both a dinner jacket and a regular sports jacket. It’s a good money-saving idea for those that don’t really want to buy a high-quality dinner jacket only to wear it once a year. 

A black-and-white houndstooth jacket like this is a good option. It wouldn’t be the quietest of sports jackets, but it could be worn with a denim shirt and flannels, and looks perfectly at home with a tuxedo shirt, bow tie and trousers.

Alex Natt


We really need to do a ‘How to dress like’ article on Alex some time. He’s so thoughtful about clothing, and while he wears practical photography gear most of the time, he’s also started wearing more tailoring, very much in his own style. 

This outfit demonstrates the kind of thing he does very well. Good jeans in a good, straight cut; quality shoes in subtle styles; then a really short vintage jacket for a bit of character. Without the short jacket it would all be a little ordinary for menswear, but a reader could easily emulate everything else and not go quite so short on the jacket - classic rather than cropped. The nutty colour of the shetland underneath is lovely too. 

Gustav Vikander


Here I was taken with the combination of browns and beige. A brown polo shirt is surprisingly nice to wear - good with greys, with black, with beige and cream, even dark navy. But it’s particularly nice in this combination because it is the less classic, the less expected colour - white or blue or grey would be more standard. 

As with many combinations, it makes me think how the colour would work if reversed as well, for example if I wore my Mueser straw-coloured jacket but with brown trousers and a cream shirt. 

Robert Weng


Robert is a good one to watch for tips on working tailoring into casual outfits. And while some accessories or styling points will not be for some PS readers, the foundations are always worth noting. 

Here I can imagine most not wearing the hat or necklace, but the colours are great, and most importantly, it’s a good illustration of how to wear a down jacket over a tailored jacket. Unfortunately this works best on shorter guys (I’ve found) where the down and the tailoring are naturally of similar lengths. 

All photos courtesy of The Anthology 

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Lindsay McKee

I like the colours on Buzz Tang although, imo, I’d slim down the bow tie. I may be wrong but I think a more discreet and slimmer bow would be better.
Gustav, with that excellent combination of browns and beige won me over.
Challenge! How could a similar combination be effected in greys?

Lindsay McKee

The lapel style on Buzz Tang’s jacket is very striking and beautiful, similar, imo to Sartoria Corcos. Think kite shape or even inverted sails of a ship if you see what I mean.
The jacket seems a bit short and the forequarters curve away quite dramatically, but effective none the less.

Gustav Vikander

Thank you very much, Lindsey!

Lindsay McKee

Pleasure! I’m not on instagram but I’ve seen some of your other articles.
Excellent styles.


I like your pitty articles since everyone seems to play safe but also try something unusual that sometimes works. I find the jeans of Alex very nice so if you could find out the brand id be interested to look them closely. I think if you were to wear a style like that many of your leather jackets and for sure the green army parka would fit nice.


Thank you simon, the week you posted the article i ordered a pair with a great color, the fit was very nice but they were too long and something wrong happened when i sent them to sightly reduce the length.. Maybe i should try my luck again, thanx for asking


Thanks for the outfit descriptions, they’re always quite educational.
My favourite of what I’ve seen so far I found at the Guardian’s roundup. (I can’t attach the picture because the .webp format isn’t allowed).
I find it an interestingly harmonious blend of disparate elements: high fashion Tabis, military-style cargo pants, varsity jacket, business-like shirt and tie, Sunday farmer’s market big shoulder bag.


Thanks Mwanji for the Graun recommendation. Lovely, lovely Pitti portraits.


I think the way Collins styles the suit is a gorgeous way to keep tailoring alive. Also really fits a young guy in my mind. Oliver Dannefalk is always well dressed and a How to dress take on Alex Natt is very much needed. Very attainable style as it seems!

Jack Collins

Thank you, Amon – I appreciate your kind words


I really like the combination with the Fair Isle Cardigan. This seems to be a good example of the species, not to fine but somewhat thicker and rougher. I am always tempted by those, especially when the have fairly muted brownish colors with cream. I think it could work with the PS Oxford shirt in white and casual fawn corderoy trousers, maybe even with five-pockets, and the chunky Denver rough-suede shoe in med-dark-brown from C&J.


Hi Simon,
Great article and a lot of ideas to work with. I wonder if you could find out the make/model of Jamie Ferguson’s Fair Isle knit and white shirt?


Hi Simon,
Thanks for this article. Some interesting and for the most part wearable looks. I’m with you on the necklace which I don’t get at all, but sort of contributes to the diversity of looks at Pitti.
I did particularly like the look Alex Natt put together. It looks good without looking at all contrived – really nice. An ‘how to dress like’ on Alec would be welcome.
What I have noticed from looking at this post , your previous posts and others about Pitti is there is less that looks new to me, I’m not saying that’s a bad thing, rather it looks more a stabilisation of style, although I’d expect your being there and your eye noticed more change and details. I’d be interested as always, in your views .


I was wondering if you might avoid a Pitti post altogether this year. Whilst i see its an opportunity for outfit spotting they’re no different from those that can be seen year round on Instagram and other sites. Mens fashion is so popular now its not hard to find these images, indeed if you are a follower you are bombarded with them all year round. Some nice outfits in this post, i actually prefer Alex’s to many of the more tailored looks. I know every year we bemoan the peacocks and there seems to be a split between those who consider themselves the genuine attendees and those they consider hangers on. I have gone full circle now and have come to view the whole contingent as one group of slightly silly posers. I find it very hard to see pitti as anything other than a huge exercise in vanity and i struggle with it tremendously. It really puts me off the whole seen.


Hi Simon, I believe you should continue to give us your take, with the benefit of your insight. You prove a good edit and context. As I mentioned earlier I think there has been a stabilisation over time, perhaps this is Pitti evolving as things do. In any case whether, peacock, poser, tourist or in the trade, they all provide an input to the local economy which isn’t (IMO) a bad thing. At the end of the day one doesn’t have to attend or even read about Pitti.


It’s true you don’t have to read about pitti but it’s very hard to avoid it twice a year when you get bombarded with images non stop. It is all a little silly I agree with the above comment. Even from if the brands I like such as brycelands and AWMS i find the guys who run those brands a bit OTT and with the constant reposting of images of one’s self it is all very vane I’m afraid to say.


Agreed, the Bryclesands guys and Tony although very considered and with arguable slightly better taste levels look just as over the top as many of the ‘peacocks’. In the industry i work in there is a practice of having third party, non related team from a separate organisation check your work. This provides a clean perspective and leads to better outcomes. One can become blinkered or blind to the bigger picture when one is so focused on what they are doing within a set group who all hold the same aspirations, opinions, goals and references. Sometimes an outsiders perspective can be very valuable and indeed necessary. I feel this may be the case with a lot of these menswear industry guys. I get it that its about pushing things and exercising ideas and that some people have that role to full fill in order to keep things fresh and interesting but this can go to far. Guys, take it from an outsider who may see a broader picture – it may have gone to far, it feels that that point has been reached. Remember the benefits of subtlety and undertested stylistic elements as well as the broader context of the communities we live in.


I feel like traditional classical menswear is kind dying anyway, so for one I’m all for people have fun and experiment. If tailoring doesn’t evolve we would be the only one wearing them in 30 years


I enjoyed this article, though given how many people attend Pitti, would have been interesting to have more “non-PS regulars” featured.

Peter Hall

I do like the down jacket worn by Robert and the hat really sets it off,but most of all I love those gloves!

Put together – a fabulous look with shape and texture. It would be easy(and tempting) to take the easy option of a waxed jacket, but these combinations lift it(with a nod to Americana.


The gray cord suit on Jack is fantastic. Could I trouble you for the info? I also love the (denim? chambray?) shirt and brown knit tie. I have one of the latter but would be grateful for reconnaissance on the shirt. Cheers!

Jack Collins

Very kind, John – thank you! The suit is bespoke from The Anthology, made in a Caccioppoli corduroy. I’m wearing it with a vintage Luca Avitabile denim shirt that I bought from Marrkt (it’s in great shape and the cloth has faded beautifully). Tie is a silk zig-zag knit from Neem London, and the shoes are a pair of “George” loafers from George Cleverley.

Rob O

outstanding ensemble Jack, congratulations. Unusual lapels on that Anthology jacket. I would have expected a higher gorge line, but it works beautifully


Thanks Jack! A superb combination that suggests patient curation and a keen eye.

Phil Stirling

Great article and no peacocks in sight!!

I wonder if you or Jack Collins could let me know where he bought his lovely grey cord suit and blue button down from??

All the best

Jack Collins

Phil, Simon, full details of my outfit here are available in response to John’s comment

Phil Stirling

Many thanks for that.
Best wishes


Take a look at the Guardian link that Mwanji posted. There is a shot of a great trench coat that could, in my opinion, offer some excellent styling direction for an evolution of your PWVC/PS trench if you were ever to pick up the project again. Personally I’d loose the epaulets but the rest looks superb. I was an early adopter of your trench (V1) and love it to bits. It has aged magnificently and is probably the coat I wear the most.
Regarding the article – I think Buzz’s evening attire works superbly. Have you thought of doing an article on alternatives to ‘The Tux’. I think it’s much needed.

Sri J

I second David’s point entirely. The desert sand trench was the standout for me. I’m also a late convert to the PS-PWVC trench, thanks to Jack Collins. I bought the first version of the trench recently via Jack’s website, and I believe it’s the one that was owned and worn by Simon himself, so it has provenance and a back story. Thank you for creating such timeless elegance combined with functionality.


Good afternoon…..good article..enjoy your weekend…cheers


A question for Jack, who I hope will see this.

Jack, i follow you on IG and I suspect that you live in my hometown, Norwich. I was wondering if you can recommend any shops there, or the surrounding area, for the sartorially inclined? It’s been wonderful to see Bowhill & Elliot receiving strong coverage, including collaborations with Brycelands. But I am not sure of much else! Also, if you happen to know any good people for alterations in Norwich, or indeed good vintage stores, then I’d love to know.


Jack Collins

Hi John,

Indeed, I’m in the Norfolk area – Norwich is certainly “home” for me. Bowhill’s is expanding their menswear offering, with the monthly visits from MacAngus & Wainwright being the first step in this journey.

Otherwise, I’d take a look at Chad’s for more classic elements, and Working Title is great for workwear. There are many vintage finds to be had in/around the Magdalen Street area, as well as the top of the marketplace.

In terms of alterations tailors, Norma Cheney is at Robert Oliver’s, but I don’t have any personal experience there. I tend to do a bulk load of alterations at The Valet when I’m in London.

Hope that helps!


Thanks Jack, it does indeed! I was not aware of most of these names, so really appreciate your suggestions!

William Kazak

Interesting story with photos. I liked Gustav Vikander’s outfit. Beige, cream, and browns. The blazer goes well with the coat. It is a blazer color I wear in winter and my polo coat as well. The cream colored trousers seem to be something Italians wear very well with most everything and I emulate that look when I can.

Gustav Vikander

Much appreciated, William!


Love the idea of a sports jacket doubling up for black tie. Could this be done with black corduroy?


Interesting you say the grey corduroy looks less dusty than navy.

I like the grey corduroy, but to me it definitely looks a bit dusty (especially in the close up).

Corduroy just feels like a very casual fabric, with a sort of vintage feel to it, no matter the colour.

That’s arguably the biggest part of the appeal for me, but then it does mean that I’d be hesitant to dress it up – I’d much rather dress it down.

And ties feel completely the opposite – formal, even more casual ones like Jack’s.

Not to say I think Jack looks bad at all, I just think I’d prefer to accompany the grey cord with much more casual items, maybe some knitwear, no tie, some tassel loafers?

Perhaps even a pair of black, Paraboot Yosemite’s?


Hi Simon,
The Pitti-Uomo events look like a race to the bottom of the menswear-formality scale. Unwittingly, like sheep, attendees are running toward that unstated goal cloaked within the assumption that its just about showing up well dressed.And under the guise ot being so, actually anything goes! Indeed, guys who are known to be well-dressers suddenly become unrecognizable on these occasions!
I personally expect this cultural trend to have in the long run an adverse impact on various sectors of the menswear’s industry.


Alex always dresses very well. He has a very good eye and has that skill of being able to put things together that a few of us might own but don’t have the knack of combining as an outfit like he does.

J Crewless

To avoid the sharp edge on the front of a fur felt hat, avoid touching the crown when handling it. When putting it on and taking it off.
I like Robert Weng’s style. But that hat needs to be treated with respect or it’ll develop a hole on the apex.


I see you missed out the Brycelands guys – and for good reason – white socks, house slippers, overalls, cowboy hats and silver stick pins – but I do hope their commercial enterprise works out for them, though can’t help to think it’s very niche. Great article and your coat styles are inspirational.


One recurrent question about Pitti Uomo is, what’s in it for the influencers? Or for that matter, for you Simon? I hope you don’t take the question personally. It is just pure curiosity. Isn’t it a professional fair in which buyers survey the offerings for the next season and take buying decisions accordingly? And therefore, of a purely commercial nature?
And on a different note, looking at all the photos from Pitti, one would think that it is not possible to be into menswear if one doesn’t drink Negronis, smoke cigars, is into photography himself (or at least carries a couple thousand € camera) and likes to stand around showing casually ones attire.
I miss the old Pitti pictures with old(er) men and women, probably real buyers, showing how you can be very well dress in a very permanent style.


I think Simon is really there for the merchandise and values the collections displayed, unlike a few characters who go there to be photographed with their wives and call everyone their “friends”, then fills their Instagram for weeks on end about the event.


Simon doesn’t play at Pitti. Period.

J Crewless

I kinda like the Pitti Peacocks. They add some flavor and fun to an event that would be otherwise be quite dry without them. They put Pitti on the World Radar.
They often have some interesting but also usable ideas that no one but a Peacock could conceive.

Tim Sage

Yes I would like details of Mr. Collins Grey Corduroy Suit and Mr. Vikander‘s details of article of clothing

Gustav Vikander

Hi Tim,

Here’s a little breakdown:
The shirt is from Alessandro Gherardi in a brown flannel.
Jacket is made up from the oatmeal tweed that was available thru the PS store. I had it sewn at Rob & Co in Sweden.
The overcoat is from the PS x The Anthology collaboration, with a slight alteration to the chest pocket (no flap) and a tad longer.
Trousers are off white cream flannels with 5% cashmere mixed in from Caccioppoli.
Not pictured is a pair of dark brown grain C&J tassel loafers.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

A E Mann

Hi Simon, do you know where Oliver Dannefalk’s beautiful navy double breasted coat is from?

Tony H

Hi Simon

This might be slightly off-piste, but do you have any recommendations for Florentine leather workers who have an online presence?

I can’t imagine when I’m going to get back there next, and I’ve got a backlog of things which are about to wear out.

Turns out it’s harder to tell the locals manufacturers from the cheap importers when you can’t actually handle things.

Tony H