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Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar to the last, always a little different. 

We’ve met a few times, at pop-ups and in the familiar stores, but it turned out we have some other connections. He grew up in Ecuador, where I spent a happy month travelling. He knew my old employer, Euromoney, through his work too. There were more connections than you’d expect, which is always a nice surprise.

I hope you enjoy his story and his clothes. 

Outfit 1

  • Parka: Buzz Rickson replica of M-51
  • Jacket: Bespoke, from Solito
  • Trousers: Bespoke, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury 
  • Shirt: Turnbull & Asser
  • Tie: Drake’s 
  • Belt: Rubato
  • Shoes: Crockett & Jones, Cavendish model
  • Watch: JLC Reverso 

How did you first get into clothing?

Well I was born in Ecuador, but from the age of five we lived in Caracas, Venezuela. This was the seventies and Caracas was a prosperous, cosmopolitan city, with a lot of American influence. 

I was into my clothes even before turning 10 - or at least I had an awareness of what I wore and of colour, which I guess not everyone does at that age. I wore a lot of American sportswear. That was my first love.

But then when I was older we moved to England, and I remember my mother shopping for clothes at Marks & Spencer. I cried when I saw the things she bought - it wasn’t the same.

In my teens I went through different subcultures. I was a Casual for a couple of years - Tacchini and all that. Then I was a Mod - probably the first Latin American Mod in England! This is why I wore my parka today, in homage to those years. 

Did you keep up that interest in clothing?

Oh no, when I was in my mid-twenties I entered the dark years as far as clothing is concerned. I was a consultant and busy trying to establish a career, having a family. I travelled a lot, put on weight, clothing was very functional. 

But then in my early forties, when some of the pressure lessened, I rediscovered clothing. I think it was about that time I started reading your site as well. I dug out the clothes I used to love, but got into new areas too. The truth is I continue to have many styles, but I have a lot of fun with it all so don't consider it a problem!

Do you think you have too many clothes? 

My wife would certainly say so! One issue is I only started selling things in the past year and a half, mostly on eBay. I’m starting to get better at it though. I managed to sell my old Lee Rider jacket through Bryceland’s recently, though then I bought yours, so that was more of a swap...

Is your wife into clothes?

Not that much. Although I do think if there were more shops like Bryceland’s for women, that are so welcoming, so easy, maybe more would appreciate good, timeless clothes. It’s also so much nicer to shop when there are a few places you go to, who supply most things, who get to know you too. 

I hadn’t thought about that. We’re lucky in that regard, certainly in the area of traditional menswear. I think my wife would love shopping that way as well. 

Outfit 2

  • Jacket: LEJ
  • Shirt: Brcyeland’s 
  • Trousers: Scott Fraser Collection
  • Belt: Rubato 
  • Shoes: Crockett & Jones, Cavendish model
  • Cap: Aimé Leon Dore
  • Necklace: Red Rabbit necklace with silver pendant from French flea market 
  • Watch: Omega Speedmaster (pre-Moon)

Do you think growing up with an interest in clothing helps you later on? Does it give you an established taste?

It definitely helps - I am very instinctual, and it can be hard to suddenly develop that if you’ve never been into clothes. It is also interesting
to rationalise your approach to clothes and to think about why certain things work and others don’t, and also to consider different perspectives. Your site has been hugely helpful in that sense.

Black is a good example. I never wore black when I was younger, or in my career, and always thought it was too one-dimensional, a bit flat. But when I read your pieces on it, I realised how much was about texture, and how some categories were easier than others. 

I guess this outfit is influenced by that - I never would have worn it a few years ago. I appreciate the texture in the seersucker, in the linen trousers. And I naturally break it up, with a belt or something else.

It’s interesting to see you wear it with red as well, as that strong contrast doesn’t work on me - your colouring must help. 

Yes, and of course that’s a big part of that background in clothes - you have a better idea of what suits you. 

Where are the trousers from? 

Those are from Scott Simpson, but I had him taper them a little from his standard width on the lower leg. I like big trousers but if they’re too wide at the bottom they can drown you. Even if they’re wide it helps if they taper a little. 

You could wear that width more easily than me given your height. I guess that’s one more about learning about what looks good on you. 

The shoes are from Crockett & Jones? 

Yes I have three pairs - the most comfortable loafer for my foot I’ve found. The brown tassels in the first outfit were Crocketts as well. 

The belt is from Rubato, although I’ve also gotten into western belts from Silver Ostrich thanks to you. And the jacket is from LEJ - it was a sample and I had to convince Luke to sell it to me. I think it was a shorter length than his usual chores, which works a lot better on my height. 

How much are you into watches?

Not that much, or at least not as much as clothes. I have a handful of collectible ones, some of which you can see in these outfits. I’m better at controlling myself when it comes to watches - my biggest weakness is definitely clothes, outerwear particularly. 

Outfit 3

  • Jacket: MTM, Aero Leather
  • Scarf: Mahala
  • Roll neck: De Bonne Facture
  • Trousers: As in Outfit 1
  • Watch: 1967 Rolex Day Date

I love the scarf here, where’s that from?

A little shop called Mahala that’s close to us in Crouch End. They do some lovely textiles that they import from places like Afghanistan, Iran. There are kilims from Turkey, handmade pieces from India. 

They’ve made me a few pairs of trousers over the years too - they’re not sartorial pieces but they’re nicely done and they have some pretty special fabrics. They also like a good wide trouser. 

I like hunting down things like that abroad as well - I was in Marrakesh recently for work and I loved walking the markets, hearing everyone’s pitch, looking at all the textiles. There’s a vibrant, entrepreneurial atmosphere to everything. 

I presume the jacket was made to measure for you, is that right?

Yes this was made by Aero Leather - at an event Clutch did a few years ago. 

How do you find the experience of made to measure or made to order?

It’s hard, because there’s more risk there than with tailoring, partly because you’re not going to have a fitting, and partly because once it's made that's pretty much it. So I would never do something that was just online, where you had to enter all the information yourself - this was different because the guys were at the trunk show and taking measurements themselves, taking some responsibility! 

Where do you have your tailoring made? 

I’ve used a few different places over the years, but again I wouldn’t say I’m a big bespoke guy. I have business suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, casual jackets from Solito. Oh, and I recently used WW Chan for the first time through Bryceland's for a simple navy MTM sports jacket. Despite my nervousness, I was really pleased with the result. I have been aiming to get a simple navy blazer for a while now, but then I get distracted by something else. This time I finally did it. 

I should also include a shout-out to my fellow countrymen at Hidalgo Brothers on Savile Row - we walked past them earlier. They’re Ecuadorean too, a whole family team, and they do a great job with alterations. I use Pinnas & Needles in Soho too, but they have a bit of a backlog.

I've never done bespoke shoes, and not sure I ever will. I am not sure I could justify the money involved.

Any other clothes you've bought recently that you'd recommend to readers?

I recently got some boots from La Botte Gardiane in the south of France that get a lot of comments. They're basically French cowboy boots from the Camargue - similar functionality but without all the associations of western cowboy boots.

I feel that they're good value, and have a great shape. You can also have them made to order if you want some tweaks. The collar is quite large so there is some movement if you have smaller ankles, like me. But you get used to that.

 

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