Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown
This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series , which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...
Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown
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I think this a really interesting comment - stylistically it does look closer to something by Paul Harnden or Elena Dawson, so I wonder if this might be an area worth exploring. I'm not suggestion Simon go full-on Carol ...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one ...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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It's at waist level, straight...
Reader profile: Sebastian
Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar...
Reader profile: Sebastian
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Most classic menswear brands will not offer discounts and often don't go on sale...
The Italian handmade shirt
Many countries still make shirts by hand, including in Spain with the likes of Burgos and, further afield, someone like 100 Hands in India. But it is Italy that has really kept the flame alive. Indeed, it’s one of the most most surpr...
The Italian handmade shirt
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It's from Wil Whiting...
How to wear a cream jacket
A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and illustrates, three ways I&am...
How to wear a cream jacket
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Ha! Fingers crossed. Mid-grey definitely...
Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino
*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes bac...
Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino
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Hi Varun I’m afraid this model is no longer sold. Have a look at our updated jacket here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/02/introducing-the-new-reversible-suede-bomber.html Our best advice is to measure a jacket y...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
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Because it gets dirty easily...
Italian aristocracy: Black and white
Last summer, a reader responded to a post by reminding me that in Slim Aarons's photography of Italian aristocracy, most wore cream or tobacco-linen suits, a white shirt, white hank and black knitted-silk tie. The post had been on 'Dressing pale c...
Italian aristocracy: Black and white
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That’s great - thanks Simon. I’ve just received some linen shirts from Simone Abbarchi. The cream is Canclini Topolino linen fabric. It’s a lovely shade of cream, not too yellowy but distinctly not an ivory either....
Sage green and tobacco brown – earthy summer
Finding new colour combinations I like makes me disproportionately happy. I know this doesn’t apply to every menswear enthusiast, but for me the interrelationship of colours is one of the most enjoyable and creative aspects of dress....
Sage green and tobacco brown – earthy summer
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I know what you mean David, but I'm not sure many would make that association in a material like plain, dark linen. Of course, you can look for models with more pockets, but at a certain point that also becomes rather as...
The D’Avino shirt workshop – Somma Ve...
As mentioned in our post on Marco Cerrato last week, much of the sartorial industry in Naples occurs outside the city - in the suburbs and towns of the surrounding area. Much of this is in the north-east, just above Mount Vesuvius, the still-active ...
The D’Avino shirt workshop – Somma Ve...
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Thanks...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
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Probably not, but worth asking the maker if they can perhaps prepare a fitting for you in that time, so you can be fitted and have the finished shirt sent to you...
D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatm...
I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting. I'm increasingly moving away from the more corporate colours of white and lig...
D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatm...
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Yeah, I guess that it is quite specific! Collar style is also a determining factor: a spread collar seems too corporate to me. I want it to look natural. Will experiment with an undyed cotton shirt....
Wearing a grey linen shirt – or the virtues...
A style post today, after several product and profile pieces in recent weeks. To break it down into bullets: I love grey shirts, primarily with navy suits or jackets as an alternative to white and blue. It feels urban and modern The problem is, wit...
Wearing a grey linen shirt – or the virtues...
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It would probably be too smart I would think...
D’Avino in London
The exquisite shirtmaker D'Avino (that's the brand name, the man being Fiorenzo Auricchio) is here in London for a rare visit in two weeks. D'Avino makes to the highest level you will see, with handwork absolutely everywhere - not just the practica...
D’Avino in London
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No problem. Some points on my previous shirt posts about unfused vs fused collars, but I can do something separate on it....
Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...
This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...
Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...
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I think that could like nice Wes, yes, in the right cut/style of jacket....
What is quality? What about design? – Stock...
At our book launch in Stockholm last week, Konrad Olsson (above) – editor of Plaza Uomo magazine – asked some rather stimulating questions. Such as, what is quality? Well, for me quality (in clothing) is aspects of manufacture that lea...
What is quality? What about design? – Stock...
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Hi Hugo, Well spotted. It will be launching on the website next week - there is a special edition of it just for readers... S...
Video: How to look after your suit
This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it all] They are p...
Video: How to look after your suit
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How wide should such a "wide-shouldered" hanger for suits be?...
D’Avino shirts – the zenith of visiti...
D’Avino is a small Neapolitan outfit run by cutter Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). He has no website, an abandoned blog, and little used social media. Email is the best contact option. But he visits London regularly, usually twice a year at l...
D’Avino shirts – the zenith of visiti...
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Fiorenzo Auricchio has great designer clothes. I have heard so many things about him. He weaves the suits so well....
D’Avino bespoke denim shirt
This is the final shirt from Neapolitan maker D’Avino. It is, as I expected, absolutely beautifully made, and a very good fit for the first order. Neapolitan shirtmakers vary both by their price and their priorities. The shirtmaker I have used ...
D’Avino bespoke denim shirt
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I don't think it looks particularly cheap at first glance Keshav - as I said, it will really be about how it wears over time....
Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others
A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris in the first place. In t...
Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others
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Here are some more pics of Simon's DB: http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/69709009635/simon-crompton-shows-you-how-the-cifonelli-bespoke...
D’Avino shirts, Naples
One of the new makers I met in Naples last month was D’Avino, a small shirtmaker run by Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). Fiorenzo trained as a boy under his father, who worked for Gino Borelli – so a pretty decent education – and then se...
D’Avino shirts, Naples
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There is no shop, just a workshop, and it's a good 40 minute drive outsode Naples I'm afraid...
