Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world.
Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working in small factories or busily hand-sewing at home.
You come here for bespoke, not for shopping.
But there are still a few shops worth visiting, and we highlight them here alongside some groupings of the best tailors and shirtmakers.
Many readers will visit Naples at some point, for a fitting or just to see the atelier of the tailor they’ve been using for years – and give some context to those beautiful suits they wear every day.
So we include some of those we particularly like, alongside the handful of shops.
Please do bear in mind that there is no way to include all of those bespoke artisans – and that is not the role of this list. The bespoke listings below are necessarily partial and subjective.
1 Rubinacci
Via Chiaia, 149
Historically the biggest tailoring house in Naples, and the place so many other greats have sprung from.
Rubinacci moved a few years ago from its old, curved-front shop into a much bigger space up on the hill. Here it looks down impressively on Via Chiaia, although the elevated position can also mean it is easier to miss.
There is a large, deep shop selling both Rubinacci ready two wear and a variety of accessories, and a bespoke space at the back with many bolts on display. If you can, try to also see the cloth archive, which is stored in an actual bank vault.
2 E Marinella
Riviera di Chiaia, 287
Perhaps the most famous shop in Naples, Marinella is shockingly small.
There is just about enough room for two people to come in, browse the ties that are stacked unceremoniously in plastic sleeves on the tables, buy one and leave.
Various Rubinacci spin-offs are also available around the shop, and upstairs, but is the ties and the charm of the tiny boutique that people come for.
3 E&G Capelli
Via Cavallerizza, 37
The other internationally known Neapolitan tiemaker is bigger, but harder to find.
E&G Cappelli has its shop (and workshop) in the gated square at 37 Via Cavallerizza. You’ll have to ring to get through the gate, though there is also the advantage that, once inside, you can also visit Sartoria Formosa – tailoring or shirts – on other sides of the square.
A tie brand that has recently opened a shop, and is worth a visit given how close and central it is, is Ulturale on Via Carlo Poerio
4 Barbarulo
Piazza Amedeo, 16/i – Passeggiata Colonna
Jewellery has been in the Barbarulo family for four generations, although they have gone through various retail strategies: the founder was a goldsmith, current owner Cristiano’s father moved the shop to Capri and sold vintage jewellery.
Cristiano opened the new shop, in a lovely arcade next to Piazza Amedeo, in 2012. His international website is called Gemellidapolso (the Italian for cufflinks) but there are also pins, chains and other jewellery for sale.
Cristiano has also brought more of the craftsmanship from outside Naples into the studio, which is nice to see.
5 Mario Talarico
Vico Due Porte a Toledo, 4/B
Talarico makes some beautiful umbrellas in a tiny and ancient workshop off Via Toledo. He also offers some cheap brollies, but move those aside and look out for the solid sticks in chestnut or cherry wood, with hand-sewn canopies.
Mario Sr will likely be sat at his desk, which has been worn down so much it looks like a shark has taken a huge bite out of the top. And Mario Jr should be at the counter, tying on the little strips of silk or cotton that bind the umbrella’s ribs.
A worthy souvenir of Naples.
6 Caccioppoli
Via Antonio Ciccone 8
There used to be dozens of cloth merchants in Naples, importing and stocking cloth from Biella and Huddersfield for all the tailors around the city. Today there is one: Caccioppoli.
The Caccioppoli office in the east end of Naples has a lovely atmosphere to it, with three floors covering most of the city block. Customers cannot buy cloth directly in the shop, but it is worth a visit to see the latest season’s collections in full bolts, before ordering from a tailor, as well as to see the building itself.
7 Camiceria Piccolo
Via Chiaia 41
Far, far smaller than Caccioppoli, but worth a visit. Piccolo (not to be confused with shirtmaker Salvatore Piccolo) is a small shirtings shop just off Via Chiaia in the centre of town.
The range of shirtings is good, if not extraordinary. There are few rare or unusual bolts you won’t find elsewhere (in contrast to, say, the Charvet range in Paris), but actual shops with shirtings on display in this volume are few and far between. Take the opportunity to reconsider shirt cloths, their textures and weaves.
8 Milord, Mister Fox, Gutteridge etc
Visitors to Naples with an interest in classic menswear will welcome the number of small shops offering brands such as Incotex, Boglioli and other Italian smart/casual labels. There are no more than other large Italian cities, such as Rome and Milan, but far more than in the UK, US or Asia.
Most of these are relatively cheap or a little outdated – Mister Fox and Milord, on either side of Via Cavallerizza, are examples of each. But they can be interesting to pop into (even chains such as Gutteridge) on the lookout for a nice tie or chino.
9 Sartoria Melina, Sartoria Rifugio
www.alfredorifugio.com, Pompeii
@sartoriamelinanapoli, Serano
As you might expect among the hundreds of tailors in Naples, there are a few that specialise in leather work – either making for brands, for tailors, under their name, or all three.
The biggest and best-known of these is Sartoria Rifugio, and last year one of the top makers branched out on her own to found Sartoria Melina (which only does bespoke, fully handmade work).
Both produce a lightweight leather or suede jacket with no canvas, just a small shoulder pad and a thin layer of fusing. The handwork is beautiful, and the nubuck calfskin a particularly nice choice of skin.
Both are some way out of town and require appointments. Rifugio also has showrooms in Milan, New York and Palm Beach.
10 Tailors, big and small
Some of the great names of Neapolitan tailoring, such as Antonios Panico and Pascariello, Gennaro Solito and Gigi Dalcuore, are still around and working – and worth a visit if you can.
Of course, it’s a lot easier if you are having something made, and commissioning a suit in Naples remains very good value for money (although it would require several return trips unless that tailor also travels).
The ateliers of the tailors are often steeped in history, with various awards and certificates of recognition on the walls. Places like Panico or Ciardi also have tailoring accessories such as old irons, and paintings on the walls that make the place feel more like a home than a shop.
Which of course, is exactly how they want it.
Smaller or younger tailors are more likely to travel, and among these it’s worth seeking out Ettore de Cesare up in Vomero, and Elia Caliendo in the centre of town. Dalcuore also travels widely.
11 Trouser makers: Cerrato, Ambrosi etc
@cerratomarco, Via Emanuele De Deo 4
Ambrosi-napoli.tumblr.com, Via Chiaia 184
There are two young and dynamic men at the head of two of the trouser makers in Naples: Cerrato and Ambrosi. Ambrosi has become particularly well known around the world, both for bespoke and ready-to-wear, with Cerrato only starting to travel recently.
Both make great trousers, and generally offer a higher level of make under their own name than in those they make for the city’s tailors. More bar tacks, more pick stitching.
Both are very welcoming and close by, Ambrosi on Chiaia and Cerrato on Toledo.
12 Shirt makers: Luca Avitabile, Anna Matuozzo, D’Avino
www.lucavitabile.it, Via Toledo 256
Anna-matuozzo.tumblr.com, Viale Antonio Gramsci 26
Davinoshirt.tumblr.com, Via Marigliano 72, 80049 Somma Vesuviana
There are a lot of shirtmakers in Naples, most of which are open to visits but tend not to have ateliers with the same history and atmosphere as the great tailors.
One worth highlighting is Luca Avitabile, who has built up a big international business for his bespoke and readymade polo shirts (designed with Permanent Style). In 2017 he also opened a large office on Via Toledo (same building as Solito) which is modern and welcoming. Lovely view down the long shopping street of Toledo.
Anna Matuozzo is more famous and uses more handwork in her shirts. Outside of town, meanwhile, is D’Avino bespoke (not to be confused with Avino, which does both ready-made and bespoke). If you fancy travelling out to the suburbs, the D’Avino atelier is a nice place to visit and is surrounded by the likes of Attolini and Borrelli, as well as many women finishing shirts at home.
Have you ever heard what the standard is like at the low end of Naples bespoke (800-1000 euros?)
I haven’t seen much, but what I have seen isn’t great in terms of finishing, for example.
Simon,
Wouldn’t this be something worth exploring? Given Southern Italy labour costs / rent the more famous Naples tailors’ are inflated to say the least.
S
Potentially, yes, although most of the tailors I cover also travel to London or elsewhere and the costs of doing so 2-4 times for each suit are not small.
Also, I’d challenge how ‘inflated’ a lot of the prices are. I have yet to meet a tailor making a lot of money.
I absolutely disagree!!! A lot of tailors in Naples make gackets with very good quality and low price (about 800 Euro + cloth). You maybe just don’t know them. There are: Fabio sadano, anticasartoria Leonardi, Caracciolo, enzo carfora, biagio Granata etc. I try most of them personally As well as grand Sarto and really they are some times better then grando Sarto. It’s amazing but it’s true. It’s Napoli))))
Thanks, and yes I do know many of them, particularly Carfora, Granata and so on. It should also be said that some of them are just younger guys setting out on their own, without workshops, rather than alternative houses in other parts of the region. There are many potential issues there, but the biggest are normally lack of consistency and of breadth of work, both coming from less experience
Excuse me but again I disagree . Fabio sadano, anticasartoria Leonardi and Caracciolo are quite big Sartoria’s and behind them experienced masters stands. They has they own style and finishing very good.
I didn’t say all of them were young guys, I said some of them are.
Hi Simon, any specific thoughts on Granata beyond the potential issues you identified (potential lack of consistency and breadth of work)? Thanks.
No, although we may make something, in which case there would be
OK, thank you. I was asking because I commissioned a suit with him; I haven’t seen the finished product yet, but the overall process was rather chaotic. I was wondering if you might have had a similar or slightly different experience.
Just to close the loop on this… I did just receive the finished product and I have to say that it is very satisfactory. While there isn’t an insane amount of detail and, as Simon suggests, the finishing isn’t on par with suits in a much higher price range, it is a very honest product that represents great value at EUR 1,000. The process was a little bit difficult, but overall I have to say I’m quite happy with the result.
Hello Simon
may i ask you where to do a nice MTM shirt in naples ?
who would be the best quality price in town for you
Best
E
I’ve never done MTM in Naples I’m afraid, only bespoke…
then wht s your advise when it come to bespoke ?
I use Luca Avitabile (centre of town, some handwork) and D’Avino (outside town, lots of handwork)
There’s lots of information on both, and examples of what they do, around the blog if you have a look
Many thanks Simon
This is so interesting!!
Thanks ver y much Simon.
Will you make a Rome post?
At some point, yes. Need to go there again though first…
Neapolitan tailoring is not really my gig, but if you do get to Naples I can recommend L’Antica Pizzeria de Michele. Only two choices, and no pineapple in sight, but so good!
Yes, have been to Michele – and they’ve just opened their second branch, in London!
The Neapolitans say it’s not the same because their water is unique, but you can believe that or not.
Interesting point on the water. There is a place in New York called Naples 45; when it opened, the owners brought some water to the city with them from Naples and asked a lab to try and match it with any water in the State. I believe they found a close match somewhere upstate, and, at least for a while, used it to make their dough!
Regarding Rome, i found Battistoni to be a world class shop. Another shop worth visit is Gaetano Aloisio, with leather/mixed outerwear on par with Seraphin or Chapal IMO
Thanks Ahmed. We’ve covered Aloisio before here, sorry I forgot, but only for the tailoring
Thank-you Simon. I’ve used (and continue to) many of the names mentioned in your
article. My frustration with a certain number of the tailors is that (1) they want to be paid
in cash and (2) use the variations in the exchange rate to vary there pricing which
they inform you at the last moment. I’m still working out the logic of the (2) given
that they quote you in a euro price. Having said that the quality of the workmanship
is exceptional.
That was fast, thanks!
Is it worth visiting in August, do you think? Only time I can go unfortunately, but will there be much tailoring going on?
Most workshops will be closed for at least two weeks that month, so I’d avoid it. It will also be stinking hot!
The Neapolitan sartorial tradition actually started in the small towns around Naples, Casalnuovo above all. Many tailors who opened in Naples come from there. In these small towns there are still good tailors at lower prices .
Absolutely agree with you, Sir.)))
How does tailoring in Naples compare to London in terms of price?
Pretty much always cheaper
‘Some of the great names of Neapolitan tailoring, such as Antonios Panico and Pascariello, Gennaro Solito and Gigi Dalcuore, are still around and working”
Are these gentlemen of the older generation still working, or are they supervising alongside sons (i.e. the next generation)?
It varies. All four are actively working, some with sons some without
Hello Simon,
Are u always staying in the same Hotel. Can you recommend a property which is in a good location. Thanks
No, I move around each time pretty much and couldn’t recommend any one particularly.
The best hotel in Naples is Vesuvio . Number one in all terms
It was where Maradonna was staying while we were there
I much prefer the Excelsior, and have been staying there for close to twenty-five years, always on the piano nobile,
in rooms looking out across the bay to Capri and down the coast to Vesuvius.
Although it is now a part of an international group of hotels, it has–unlike other luxury hotels in Naples and nearly every place else–not been so irredeemably modernized as to loose its original 19th century character.
Excelsior is also very good choice
Hi Simon,
which Neapolitan tailor, including MTM one such as Kiton and Attolini, puts the most amount of handwork in their suits? In other words, which one can rival Cifonelli and De Luca in terms of make?
Cheers
Most of the bespoke tailors put the same amount of handwork in as most other tailors – but none as much as Cifonelli or Camps de Luca, such as hand sewn and then top-stitched seams everywhere in the lining, for example.
The biggest difference between the Neapolitans and most tailors, eg the English or Milanese, the precision and fineness of the handwork, rather than the amount of it.
Hi Simon,
Long time lurker first time poster, very much enjoy your articles. Last weekend I was walking down The Row for the first time with the mrs, I am new to London from Newcastle.
I popped into a tailor called Jeff Banks, he was very helpful and seemed to know his stuff. I am considering placing a bespoke order for 3 suits and was told I would have some and ties included.
What would your opinion be on a Jeff Banks bespoke suit? As I have never had a bespoke suit made before.
Best,
Tony
I would avoid it. Jeff Banks is not a bespoke tailor.
Thanks for the advice, he seemed legit but I was dubious.
Dear Simon,
Thank you for bringing this review to a wider audience.
Personally, I have very good experience with #7 Camiceria Piccolo.
Last summer, during my Italian summer holiday, I went through the fitting process with them and received my shirts around 4 weeks later.
The level of detail and hand stitching is remarkable – taking the price of (average) 160€ and the level of hand stitching into account. These have now become my favorite shirts for work.
Best regards,
Per R. Jacobsen
I think it would be great if you would also investigate middle-class Neapolitans and how they dress and buy/tailor clothes. In my time in Naples it seemed like normal Neapolitan gentlemen dressed better than any other group of guys in the world and it didn’t seem like they were all wearing made to measure shirts and suits.
Simon , maybe you just forgot one of the most interesting shop in Napoli cilento1780.it
God, you’re right I completely forgot about it. Thanks Timofey
Why is there a Campari soda bottle in the image with the espresso?
It is how the espresso was delivered to the workshop… To be served in small plastic cups
Simon,
Your unstinting commitment to the sartorial has seen you commission a bewildering array of attire and my question to you is, were you to downsize to normal proportion, what would you keep?
1) Which five suits?
2) Which three pairs of jackets and trousers?
3) Which pairs of jeans and chinos.
4) Which overcoat.
Etc….
You could do a series of blogs called ‘The Keepers’
This would be enormously helpful and would sort the wheat from the chaff.
Regards,
David.
A very good idea David, thank you. I will plan something like that
How do you manage with the language in Italy. Most of the tailors speak english.
To get around in the city is the best by taxi or is there a proper public transportation system.
Have a great weekend.
In Naples you can pretty much walk everywhere.
Basic Italian is enough to use most taxis etc.
But at some tailors you will need a translator or ask if they have someone they can use
Thanks for this, Simon. Just saw Luca and Luigi yesterday, and agreed to visit Napoli after the summer. Looking forward to a look behind the scenes – it’s always nice to get some background to the things you wear!
Great list Simon. Just one thing I have to add. The Marinella shop you mentioned is not the main one. It is small and gets crowded but more importantly they don’t carry their best products.
So when you are on the Riviera de Chiaia and the shop is on your right hand side, walk for a bit and then you will notice the entrance to the inner courtyard of a few buildings. Enter there and on your right side you will see some beautiful stairs. Climb one level and you will see the beautiful Marinella shop.
Not many people know about that and the selection is amazing. You can see ties made from their silk archives as far back as 40’s. You can even pick your cloth and order your own tie. They also have a few special bolts of fabric for suits…motorcycle helmets made by Marinella and many more interesting products.
Good point. I normally go in there as well, although a lot of the ‘brand extension’ things from Marinella aren’t that great. (Bags, swimming trunks etc)
Yes, I agree. I really only go there for their ties from their archives. They are the real gems.
Your excellent report on Naples had a photograph of a flask and buttons, suggesting that it was taken at button supplier, that dyes to order. Would you share the supplier’s details, please?
I think that’s a coffee, plus some shirt buttons…. It was at Kiton a few years ago
We are visiting Rome and Naples later this year and I want to use that opportunity to get my first Neapolitan Jacket.. I was hoping to get some help in choosing the right tailor and style:
– I currently have number of Zegna Milano Easy MTM jackets and RTW pants as well as a Troino Jacket. Looking for something that would be better than that. From your blogs, looks like Elia Caliendo and Solito would be best. Which do you recommend?
– You’ve noted in your blogs that its best to stick with sports jackets from naples and not suits. I was first thinking of getting both a suit and a jacket. What do you think? I wear a jacket most of the time for work and a suit for more formal but less frequent meetings
– I’m relatively short and small built (167cms height and a 36-36.5″ chest and narrow shoulder. Your blogs on jacket style made me wonder if a neapolitian jacket is even right for me.
hoping that many others on this forum have similar questions and that yu can help.
thanks,
sumit
Hi.
– Elia and Solito would both be great. The biggest difference is price, with Elia being quite a lot more, but with generally better finishing and quality.
– I wouldn’t say that. Rather, i would say that sports jackets are better Neapolitan. But Neapolitan suits can be nice as well, just a little less formal.
– It depends what you want to look like. A Neapolitan jacket will show your natural shape, rather than giving you broader or stronger shoulders. If you don’t that, that’s fine. More details here.
Do also bear in mind that you are unlikely to be able to have a jacket made on just one trip. You will likely need at least two fittings and therefore see the tailor three times.
Simon
I am planning a quick trip to Naples, arriving on a Wednesday afternoon and departing Thursday evening. Hoping to accomplish the following on this visit:
– Shirt fitting with D’Avino
– Initial visit and next day fitting with Solito (odd jacket)
– Initial visit and next day fitting with Cerrato (2 trousers)
– Alteration of previously commissioned suit with Napoli su Misura
Questions for you … again, appreciate the feedback here:
– Is there an inherent disadvantage to doing a next day fitting? Is this too rushed to get good results, or, put another way, is it better to give the tailor more time between measurements and the first fitting?
– When visiting tailors in Napoli, is there a lag which one must take into account as we cram multiple fitting sessions into a 1-2 day trip? Not talking about time getting from one store to another, but just the time you have to wait as they free up, or just the pace at which they offer service. For someone who hasn’t visited them at their shops, I’m trying to get a sense for whether you can really get things done in 45min like you do when they visit cities and work out of hotel rooms. Please ignore fabric selection time as that can vary.
– With regards to the alteration, it’s essentially a grey flannel suit I had made 2 years ago; I do not wear it as the fit is not great. I’d be asking them to take the suit in around the waist, and whatever consequential changes are to be made henceforth. Question here is, if the final bespoke product is delivered to the client, is it reasonable to go back to the tailor and ask for a refitting, or at least some basic changes to the fit? I had pointed some of this on delivery and was asked to wear it for a bit first so allow the fabric to settle in. Just want to get a sense for the norms vis a vis follow-up service on a commissioned suit. To clarify, my measurements haven’t changed appreciably; it just doesn’t feel like a properly fitted suit.
Hi Ahmed. Some big points here, but I’ll reply as best I can.
– I would avoid next-day fittings wherever possible, as it is an inconvenience to the tailor (they have to stop all work to prioritise you) and usually the fitting cannot be done in the cloth you request.
– I would certainly allow more than 45 minutes. Neapolitan tailors may tend to be a little more relaxed, and it’s a real pleasure taking coffee before or after a fitting as well. Don’t try to cram too much in.
– This should be absolutely fine, particularly as you’ve already communicated the fact that there were issues with the final suit. Taking in the waist is also a pretty easy change.
Hello Simon: I’m new to your blog and I am enjoying it very much.
I live in California but we get to Italy quite often, mostly Rome.
Just wondering if you have suggestions for shopping there?
Not really – it’s not a city I know well I’m afraid
Robert, strictly my own opinion–unendorsed by Simon–is to check out Sartoria Ripense in Rome. Andrea Luparelli there has made me several jackets and a suit over the past few years, and I think he’s fantastic. Cheaper than some of the bigger names but with a keen attention to details and fit, and he has a great eye for what looks good on his clients. Andrea himself is relatively young (just under 50) and something of a style icon on blogs and in magazines, but his tailors are older gents from Calabria. So it feels like the best of both worlds.
Thanks Max. We will be in Rome in September and will check Sartoria Ripense out, I know the street they are located on, I’m surprised I haven’t noticed it.
An update from Naples this week (where it’s currently snowing!). Granata now charges €1200 for a suit, not including fabric. Add roughly another €300 for the material and you’re looking at €1500–still cheap for bespoke but well above the mythical €800 Neapolitan suits that some posters have mentioned. With all these young tailors in Naples, expect to pay cash, and don’t expect them to have shops in Chiaia although some including Granata will come to your hotel. Several more established tailors I know question the viability of the prices, but clearly the business model is about building a client base on low or no profit and then hopefully raising prices once established.
Many young tailors and other artisans in Italy are happy to be working at all; they can all tell you of friends who went to university (instead of learning a trade) who can’t even find restaurant work.
Biagio charges 1200 euros now because he must pay the VAT to the Italian state. Still very good value for money. The result of the first suit he made for me was average but mainly because of the difficulties of communication. We improved it and the result of the second suit is very good in terms of fit. That’s being said, it’s still a very neapolitean process with random delivery deadlines. Concerning the trousers, he subcontracts them. Would be wise to order it directly to a trousermaker.
The VAT rules haven’t changed in Italy; per EU it’s always paid at every level of exchange. He raised his prices because he has enough business now that he can. With fabric the suit he made for my son came in at €1800, not counting another €100 for shipping. Still a good deal but not wildly below some more established tailors.
Sorry, the total with shipping was €1800.
It makes 500 euros for the fabric??? At 1,2k he’s a top value. At 1,5k you could have order to some old masters of the via Chiaia whose names will never appear here because they have no Instagram nor mail and even nor phone.
I absolutely agree. You can find absolutely beautiful sarto in Naples for amazing price. They don’t involved in the social media carnival. In reality many of famous sartoria (Dalcuore etc) charge you 3 k Euro + and then outsource all process to sartoria’s that even cheaper than biagio Granata etc. it’s the funny situation but it’s Napoletano Teatro)))
Agree. My Granatas are as good as m’y Dalcuore suit (bought before it becomes trending). Only Chinese and uneducated Igent are eager to pay 3k or 4k for a suit.
Ah, the mythical cheap Neapolitan suit only for locals. Often cited, never with any names given. I’m not a native but I speak Italian and can find any address in Naples, I don’t care how obscure. (I drive in Naples too.) And presumably these geniuses toiling in obscurity have telephones. So why are they such a secret?
Don’t worry- I can give you names and Tel of such tailors))).
Hi Timofey,
Is it possible to contact me also your suggestions? I am not a local and I dont speak Italian, but I am in a relatively close distance from Naples. I want to make my first steps in the bespoke world and I am doing my research first until I visit Naples for a first time.
Hi Timofey,
I would be interested in sourcing some great sartoria’s in Naples (for trousers and jackets) and would greatly appreciate some recommendations based on quality, style and value for money. You seem to have a great knowledge based upon what I have seen on your comments.
Many thanks
Rupesh
Cheap? Not really but for sure you can obtain top quality bespoke at 1,5k/2k. In this range you’ll find o’mast (just look at some names at 197 via Chiaia) or young sartoria like Alessandro Guerra. There are plenty of options.
For locals are always different price than for foreigners . It’s another secret of Neapolitan tailoring)))
Simon you mentioned, that you had something in the making with biagio granata. I am thinking of trying him out, and would just like to hear your thoughts on the work.
Hi Bobby,
We’ve had three fittings so far and it’s OK – not perfect, and there was an issue with trousers being adjusted in the wrong direction. But hopefully should turn out OK. I’ll withhold judgment until the final suit is ready.
Ok. Thank for the info Simon. I like the fact that you withhold final judgement, we should always give the benefit of the doubt. Sounds like at difficult process but could turn out fine. I will consider using him. I rarely get what I want with the first suit. Maybe the next ones will be better.
Just back from a week in Naples where we had a great experience having Biagio make a blue Huddersfield fresco suit for our 26-year-old son. (Possibly Biagio’s age as well.) Like you Simon we had three fittings and have not seen the finished suit yet, which will be shipped to my son in California.
We felt Biagio’s attention to detail and fit was quite thorough—indeed moreso than I received during the week from Rubinacci where I was getting a suit in a vintage grey donegal cashmere. That could be due to Biagio being a relative novice as opposed to the much older and experienced cutter at Rubinacci; again no finished product yet. But he is certainly conscientious, and a lovely person as is his partner and shirtmaker Pasquale.
The final total cost for the suit (cash only, no plastic) was €1700, including DHL to California (€99). The VAT issue is murky to me as both a non-EU citizen and a part-time resident of Italy where everything VAT-related is murky by definition. I believe Biagio must still pay some on his end as of course VAT is cumulative, but that €1700 was our total cost. Perhaps Brits will get hit with VAT on delivery?
Incidentally that is Biagio’s Naples price. He told me he charges more on his trunk shows to account for travel expenses, but I didn’t ask how much. His English is quite limited; I can picture some potential cross-communications during fittings for customers who don’t speak Italian.
Thanks Max. And yes, that has certainly been an issue with me.
I ordered a Granata suit through Pasquale, who is the middle brother (Biagio is 31 or 32, Pasquale 28-29, and the youngest brother is 25-26) and did the trunk shows for Geneva. The whole process, which started in October, was good, although a bit chaotic (canceled flights and ensuing delays), and I had to resurrect my Italian from school, as English was posing serious obstacles. I picked up a few sartorial terms and from there it went more smoothly communication-wise. We developed a very good rapport in the process – they are very committed and took careful note of all my needs. I’m expecting a suit soon, which was finished with good first fitting but without proper second fitting (issues arose and they had to cancel the Geneva trip), which raises some doubts. However, they provided assurances that the suit will fit perfectly as they took every single measure and posture shot possible and the first fitting was very good. They promised if there are any issues the suit would be fixed on the next appointment. Will update on the result when the suit arrives – hopefully next week.
Hi Simon.
Just wondering whether you’ve ever tried doing shirts at Camicceria Piccolo (#7 above) and/or if you had any thought about the quality of their MTM or Bespoke shirting (in case they do both). Thanks much.
Moez
No I haven’t Moez, so I can’t really comment
I am a big fan of Antonio Pascariello’s work but I can’t seem to find any information on him (address, website etc.) Does anyone have information? Thanks!
Do you have a hotel recommendation for Naples? Do we need to make appoints for DAvino and other bespoke shirt makers ?
No, I don’t have any specific hotel recommendations. And yes, you should appointments with all makers
Hi Simon,
I’m wondering what you think of Cesare Attolini. I’ve read through most of your blog but you never really mention the house. It’s surprising as you’ve obviously spent a lot of time in Napoli and the product is of a very high standard. I could also ask the same question of Orazio Luciano.
Both are conspicuously absent!
Thanks.
Hi Matt,
Yes it’s largely because we cover bespoke rather than RTW. Attolini is great and I have a lot of respect for what they do, however. I should cover them. Also Orazio, though again mostly RTW
Hi Simon,
I later realised that you have written an article about Orazio Luciano.
I think Attolini do MTM, which you cover, and possibly do bespoke too. Although I imagine it’s very expensive.
I’m assuming then that you don’t own any Attolini. I find I achieve a great fit, but then (fortunately for me) I’m not a difficult fit to begin with.
Yes – not much in detail though.
Attolini do do MTM, yes, but for that price I’d usually recommend bespoke to people.
I have also covered Kiton MTM, which is more expensive than Attolini and I generally like the style of less, but the offering is similar otherwise. Perhaps worth having a look at that.
Hi Simon, I am visiting Naples soon and I hope to get some Caccioppoli fabrics for me and my friends but found out from this guide that they don’t sell to customer directly. Can you please double confirm as I saw from this SF thread that a member was able to so during his visit in 2015: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/my-visit-to-caccioppoli-napoli.355186/page-3 #41
Are there alternatives to get Caccioppoli fabrics in Naples?
They don’t as standard, but try contacting them ahead of time and it might be ok.
No, that’s the only place to go….
All,
Great information on this site. I’ll be making my first trip to Naples this upcoming September, unfortunately, I won’t have time for Bespoke or MTM. Any list of RTW shops that are must visits? I wouldn’t mind picking up some dress shirts and jacket or two. Thanks,
Sam
I don’t think it’s a good idea. Naples is not good place to buy RTW))). Instead you can take measurements on first day , fitting in 2 days and after that they will sent to you finished product))). Some tailors can offer to you this service.
It’s very hard to say . I think there are a about 200-250 sartoria in Naples . All depends of your style , budget etc
Or just go for Attolini. He is the best in RTW . Price is crazy for Napoletano market )))
I’ve heard good things about “The Secrets Napoli”
I am searching a wholesale for men suit and men clothes in Naples.if you can guide me big thanks.
Just wanted to add to the discussion on Granata. They seem like nice and honest guys, but it’s all a bit hasty and chaotic. They finished my suit without doing all the fittings (actually did just one), and sent it via post (I had to pay the shipping costs), and I was not too happy with the result, both in terms of fit and construction. They agreed to fix it all, but still waiting for their next trip to my town to see where all the alterations are needed and actually do a proper second fitting. I suggest making sure this is avoided and keeping in mind the possible waiting times and change of schedule (couple of times we were supposed to meet they had to cancel the trip). They are good guys I have no doubt, and the work I’ve seen online is superb (as are comments from others), but given my experience they must be more professional and understand this is a luxury business and needs to be treated as such.
A charming film from 2011 about the Neopoltian Satorias which you can view on youtube now:
https://youtu.be/X4_c-6dqLIY
Hi,
Very interesting article. One thing that stands out to me from it is that a visitor in Naples has great number of choices. So many that he can be easily lost. However, a visitor in Naples that does not live in Italy has the limitation of time. He can’t visit all the many suit tailors and shirt makers suggested in it. So I was wondering, for someone that has no idea about bespoke tailoring and shirtmaking where can he start his journey to the bespoke world when he visits the area for 3-4 days?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
I’d suggest looking through the tailors and just picking two to visit, based on seeing a suit or jacket of theirs you like
Do the Neapolitan makers have a specific style for ties and is there much difference between the makers? I’ve been into the E. Marinella shop in London and seen Francesco Marino in person at the PS pop-up, but I’m also aware of Cappelli, Cilento, Ulturale, A. Quaranta Locatelli, and Calabrese 1924. Are there any of those you’d recommend more strongly than others?
I’d like to experiment outside the very British (Drake’s) and Milanese (Bigi) styles I’m used to but the market seems a lot more heavily contested so to be honest I’m a bit confused as where to start.
PS. A very very merry Christmas to you and best wishes for your first full year of running PS full time in 2019!
Thanks!
Neapolitan ties might tend to be a little looser and unlined, but it’s really not consistent. Particularly given a lot of them try to be English – a lot Marinella ties are made by Drake’s. I’d judge each brand on its merits from ties you’ve seen
Simon,
If you don’t mind I’d like to ask your opinion in regards to my approach for an upcoming Naples trip. I’m debating extending my trip to 10-12 days in hopes of getting a second fitting in for bespoke jackets. Both Caliendo and Ciardi should be able to get two fittings complete in that time frame according to my emails with them. My questions to you:
1) Are these gentlemen generally accurate when it comes their quoted times to complete work?
2) This would be a significant upfront investment with bespoke garments from Solito, Ciardi and Caliendo. My thought is to make the most out of this trip and get patterns done with these makers, in order to make future commissions more efficient. OR, would you suggest taking things a bit slower, maybe selecting just one garment to be made bespoke and see how it turns out?
I don’t have an unlimited budget but I can allocate about 8-10 thousand USD each year for bespoke garments. I calculate I’m approaching double that if go with plan A for this trip. I’d be commissioning all basic items based on the many great articles you’ve written. Any advice on this would be appreciated.
Thanks again,
Chris
Hi Chris,
Youve identified some great makers, but I would worry about spending so much at one time, yes. I’d suggest you reduce it to one or at the most two. Even from one maker, I’d always recommend just doing one at a time, at least at the start.
But yes, all three have been good on delivery with me
Hi there SIMON and folks . This is my first post . I’ve very much enjoyed reading this discussion . Last year 2018 my partner and I were in Naples for about 10 or 11 days , during that time we stayed at an apartment owned by the rubinacci family , about 20 mins walk from Chiaia ( this was a good location as we needed to “ walk off “quite a bit of food ! After reading up on bespoke tailors in Napoli I settled on Sartoria Tofani , a farther and son oppression that has yielded me a fantastic relationship and initially a suit that is beautiful , a jacket to match the Holland and Sherry ambrosia trousers whilst there and finally a beautiful cream dinner jacket and black trousers that I wore at my wedding this year . We live in Australia and are hoping to get back to see Ari and Davide for some follow up measurements and perhaps a linen suit . They have been easy to work with and have sent everything over here ( to Australia ) in the time frame we discussed . I feel like their work is the real Napolitan deal , the trousers fit beautifully and the jacket really does feel like a shirt . Has anyone else had experience with sartoria Tofani ?
Hi Simon, I am starting a suit business and looking for the right tailor to do business with. I am travelling to Naples in search of a tailor. Do you think some tailors out there will be interested and if you dont mind telling me which ones ? That will be great
Do you mean a factory, or a bespoke tailor coming to so trunk shows?
Dear PS readers,
Naples is a lovely city with lots of character and authenticity, fabulous food and numerous artisans, many of whom are listed above. However, to get the most out of your trip I would highly suggest to pick an appropriate month. Although, I am enjoying my stay in Naples greatly, August is not a good month to visit for sartorial and culinary travels as some of the most famous and iconic restaurants and tailors are closed. I would necessarily say it’s too hot, but the humidity levels make it somewhat unpleasant and require at least two sets of clothes a day.
Have a pleasant trip to Naples and hopefully you can get around to everything you have planned. I will have to come back soon.
Alex
Hi Simon,
Any recommendations where to buy leather gloves in Naples? Tons of stores in Florence, but in Naples either I have missed them or it’s a lot tougher.
Many thanks for your help in advance, Jan
Not off the top of my head. But then it’s pretty warm there!
Hello Simon,
NYC-based but off to Naples soon for a few days. I’ve had pieces made by Solito (happily) and Orazio Luciano (not a fan of their MTM service) and shirts by Luca (love him) and work regularly with two London tailors for suits. But curious who you recommend for best person to check out in Naples, keenest on odd jackets and the like. Caliendo or Ciardi seem top of the list in terms of classic look and consistency. Panico also looks lovely but perhaps less easy since they don’t travel. On the other hand worry that some like Dalcuore are doing too much all around the world. Thanks for advice.
Yes, I’d suggest you want to see people that travel, otherwise it’s going to take a lot to have something made.
I’d suggest Ciardi and Caliendo certainly, plus Ettore de Cesare and Panico. But do make sure it’s a style you like too obviously. Also bear in mind some (eg Panico) don’t really speak much English
I would recommend you the real hidden gem on Napoli sartorial word . Via Nardones 106. You will find two tailors Amato and Raffaele iorio . Both are very good with very good style and price . They stay out of this Instagram sartorial cinema)))
I will be in Florence and Naples, i want to have a couple of suits made. I like a very clean fitted look, close to the body. I m also interested in having some shirts pants and sport coats made. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
How long are you there Jeff? For anything decent you will need to come back more than once for fittings
I will be in Italy about 9 days.
I’m afraid you’ll struggle to have something made bespoke or even made to measure then Jeff. Most take several weeks and require two to four visits to the tailor
How long do you recommend, we can extend our stay, if we can extend our stay a few weeks who would you recommend?
I wouldn’t, to be honest Jeff. It’s a long time, just waiting around for multiple fittings. I would find at tailor that visits a city nearer you (many do)
My girlfriend and i are planning a bike trip in Tuscany, we have tossing around the idea of renting a villa. We can work remotely, and we found a couple of places to work out {gym} in Florence. I live in Scottsdale arizona it is not unusual for people to leave for the summer.
10th paragraph, 2nd line, spelt to “two”
Just thought I’d let you know
Dear Simon, I was wondering if you had any thoughts or heard anything about Tofani ? Thanks for your help !
Not enough to be useful I’m afraid, no
Hi S
Have a look at my last post above .
Since then I’ve received a beautiful linen jacket from Sartoria Tofani to go with another pair of ambrosi trousers . Davide and Ari are wonderful tailors and good people . I would highly recommend them and their work . I’m looking forward to getting back to Napoli with my wife when this terrible virus has passed . Be safe folks .
Thanks Hamish, really useful.
Stay safe yourself.
Hi Simon and Hamish, Thank you both for your help! A great help Hamish. If I may, I’d have a few questions for you. What made you choose Tofani out of all the Neapolitan tailors ? Were you measured up by Davide or Ari ? Thanks again!!
Hi S,
I was on a holiday in Italy , mainly in the south .. down to Sicily for about a month and I had been thinking and reading about Napoli . I figured the Napoli tailoring would suit the Australian climate and the more relaxed style , I think I’m correct in this assumption . So I researched the Napoli tailors on line as a kind of hobby and really this was my introduction to all these fine forums as well … anyway to answer your question I just went with my intuition and price range somewhere under the top … i settles on Tofani and took the plunge . I emailed the Tofani site and from the first email I felt everything would be ok . Upon arrival young Ari ( who speaks good English) and his dad Davide (who did my measurements ) were really wonderful . I guess I wanted a “small” tailor ,someone who was not so well known in the media .. a Neapolitan artisan and I believe I found them .. however now with their trunk shows , their workmanship and their commitment to growing their business , they are becoming very well known . I’ve kept contact with them , they are delightful , and to date I’ve two suits and and two jackets made by Davide and Ari and I couldn’t be happier .
That’s a bit of a ramble , I hope it helps .
Stay well
Hamish
I agree Tofani is very good Real sartoria. One pity thing – they upgrade they prices as soon as they became popular
Hi Hamish, Most helpful, thank you very much!! Seem like a really good option. Will give them a try after this whole thing ends. Stay safe, S
Hi S ,
It’s a pleasure , and if you see the fella’s before I do
Say hi .
Best regards
Hamish
Will do Hamish, thanks again !
Hi Simon,
When you commission a bespoke garment at a tailor in Naples, how do you usually settle the payment with your experience. Do most follow a general practice where you place an initial deposit and then pay after every fitting?
It’s usually half in advance, half on delivery
Hi Simon, I’m planning on a visit to Naples in the Spring to start some orders. Quick question, I’m very fond of Fox Brothers and Marling & Evans (albeit I think I prefer the look and feel of Neopolitan tailoring) – do you tend to find the Neopolitan tailors carry these swatch books?
They often have Fox, but not always, and rarely have Marling & Evans.
Perhaps try and get a swatch of the cloth you want first, in order to take and show them?
Simon, do you know if there is a “traditional” outfitter like like M. Bardelli or A&S Haberdashery in Naples?
I’m not sure actually Franz, I don’t know one but I haven’t been in a few years
I am still a student, we spoke previously about Whitcomb (who under your recommendation I have arranged for a suit to be made, just paid and went for my first fitting)— I have a few thousand more to throw around. Could you recommend the cheapest but best tailor in Naples, Simon? 🙂
At the low end I’d probably say Solito – the finishing often isn’t the best, but it’s a decent fit
Low end ))). Solito quite expensive for Naples . You can get real full handmade bespoke for 1,5 k € in Naples. As far as I know solito charge 2,5 k
As ever Timofey, please name the tailors otherwise it’s not that much use. And also specify whether they travel or not – I wouldn’t recommend someone start with a tailor that doesn’t travel
Ah yes the mythical cheap tailors of Naples! They never seem to have names or telephones. I live in Rome and go to Naples all the time but have yet to find these phantoms. Should they exist, they probably don’t speak English (not a problem for me but doubtless for most readers of PS), probably work in outlying areas that can be hard to reach even by taxi, and are probably of lesser quality with what might diplomatically be called flexible schedules.
I base this having some experience with the affordable bespoke tailors on Sicily–lovely people, dedicated to their craft, but difficult to coordinate fittings and with particular house styles that are unlikely to appeal to international customers. (Most of their customers are very conservative local doctors and lawyers who aren’t looking for Savile Row or Neapolitan cuts, more like what their grandfathers wore to church in 1920.)
Anything is possible, but unless you live in Italy and speak at least some Italian, working with local tailors not geared to international clientele will be at best an adventure and possibly a disappointing waste of money.
I can give you some telephone and adress of these tailors ))). They are in Chiaia Area in the center of Naples . They not less reallble then any over tailors in the world. And yes , you absolutely right, they never speak English))).
Thank you! I think Simon was hoping you would share their names in the comments here.
Also, would you recommend Sartoria Granata?
Have a look at my review of them on the website…
Any experience with Sannino bespoke shirts?
No, sorry
Simon can you recommend good bespoke tailors for jackets in Torino, as well as shirtmankers? Terry S
I’m afraid I don’t know any Terence, sorry. I really only know Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples well
Hello Simon, any vintage shops in Naples you recommend? With many thanks, as ever,
Daniel
No sorry, never really looked, though I’ve heard it is good for markets, partly driven by the local US naval base
There’s a whole row of them along the Via Mezzocannone, right across from the university and close to the Spaccanapoli. You can find racks of vintage Levi’s denim shirts (the ones that were actually made in San Francisco) for around 10 euros as well as made-in-France Lacoste sweaters (read the labels as some are a poly mix) for 20 euros. I recently bought a nice Hermès silk scarf for 40, and about the same for a long Fendi winter scarf…
Thank you Max! What a lovely group of readers we have
Thanks Simon. As might be expected, the vintage shops on that row generally push the womenswear out front (especially handbags and such). But most have a basement level packed with menswear. Some of the shops are more curated than others…
Thanks Max. Looking forward to a browse next time
Wonderful, thanks so much. I’ll be sure to stop by. Thanks again,
Daniel
Hi Simon. Could I ask you for a brief recommendation for a neapolitan sports jacket tailor?
I have an amazing bespoke suit from Rubinacci from a few years ago – and I’d like a style/fit like that one. Unstructured, hand sewn and with all the neapolitan details. But I don’t know if there’s a better value option these days.
I’m based in London but could travel to Naples.
There are quite a few options, Ignacio. My personal recommendations would be Ciardi or Pirozzi, but Solito is a good cheaper option and Caliendo is good too. Perhaps look up the reviews I’ve done of those ones on PS? And a comparison of their styles in the Tailors’ Styles series