Ettore de Cesare bespoke navy overcoat

February 24th 2023

This overcoat from Ettore de Cesare in Naples has been featured before, in the style feature a couple of weeks ago talking about silk scarves and shades of navy. However, there have been a few comments recently that readers appreciate articles on n...

Ettore de Cesare bespoke navy overcoat

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Hi, am really interested in this coat. Have looked everywhere and still have no coat. This is really nice and your review of it is great assurance. Thanks, l will be getting mine....

CoatsFebruary 24th 2023

An Hermes silk scarf with all navy

January 30th 2023

Long-term readers will be familiar with my passion for Hermes silk scarves, which I’ve often bought over the years as a treat, and of which I now have a small collection (nine of them, since you ask). I’ve found particular enjoyment thi...

An Hermes silk scarf with all navy

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Yes, that would be nice PA. Nice size for that...

Hanks and scarvesJanuary 30th 2023

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

July 6th 2020

  One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that you can throw on for...

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

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Hi Biswajit, I think you may find that a suit in a light construction, such as from a Neapolitan tailor, in a lightweight material, may make as much difference as regards the weather. The biggest difference an unstructur...

ClothJuly 6th 2020

Wearing black

January 22nd 2020

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...

Wearing black

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To be honest I'm not sure Charlie - I've never worn that style of jacket in anything other than blue denim and I think it might be a bit much for me if I did...

Coats - ShoesJanuary 22nd 2020

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...

December 30th 2019

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...

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They aren't necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top - the shirring. You can have one, both,...

Suits - VideoDecember 30th 2019

Which sports-jacket office are you?

June 5th 2019

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie -...

Which sports-jacket office are you?

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Yes it is. Yes a split-toe brown derby would work, though keep it on the smarter side in other respects - ie not too chunky, big sole, wide welt, round shape etc...

StyleJune 5th 2019

How to layer knitwear

January 4th 2019

Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt under knitwear. The multiple layers are also easy to add and remove as the temperature varies. And stylish...

How to layer knitwear

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Oh, that's very good for me! Thank you, Simon!...

Knitwear - StyleJanuary 4th 2019

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...

December 28th 2018

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-...

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...

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Hi Antoine, Two fittings, though it would have been three if it were my first commission...

Bags - ClothDecember 28th 2018

Introducing: Everyday Lighter Denim

October 17th 2018

It's that time of year, and new things are all arriving at once. Today it's a new, lighter shade of the Everyday Denim. Everyday Denim shirting went down really well with readers, both as fabric and finished shirts, and several asked for other varia...

Introducing: Everyday Lighter Denim

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After ca. 18 months. The fading is more pronounced than I expected. Especially on my heat points, neck and chest. I still prefer it to a standard denim that fades less....

ShirtsOctober 17th 2018

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

June 11th 2018

I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story...

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

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It's a very old linen one from Canclini - the same one won't be available now I'm afraid, as they're changed every few years at least....

Glasses and jewellery - ShirtsJune 11th 2018

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...

October 25th 2017

Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picked for its versatility. Both ar...

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...

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How wonderful, thanks for letting me know Michael...

October 25th 2017

Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples

August 4th 2017

*For more on Ettore de Cesare, and examples of the pieces he has made for me, see original post here* The workshop of Ettore de Cesare is in Vomero, a residential neighbourhood on the hill behind central Naples. But he lives in the centre of town. E...

Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples

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Yes they have, thank you Ian. Or more specifically, the car coat is reversible, the overcoat unlined. I'll change that now...

Coats - JacketsAugust 4th 2017

The guide to summer jacket cloths

July 24th 2017

  In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang straight. Jackets are les...

The guide to summer jacket cloths

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It's really hard to say on both counts I'm afraid Jack. The colour is hard to get a read on, and no I haven't had anything made up in a fabric like that...

ClothJuly 24th 2017

What I pack when I travel

July 19th 2017

As I return from two summer trips – one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples – it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, an...

What I pack when I travel

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I highly recommend the unlined Duke from EG. Supremely comfortable and stylish, if you like a more classic / robust shape than B&L and something more substantial than the Polperro. I have a lovely biscuit coloured pa...

Bags - Casual clothingJuly 19th 2017

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

July 12th 2017

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

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Probably not, but worth asking the maker if they can perhaps prepare a fitting for you in that time, so you can be fitted and have the finished shirt sent to you...

July 12th 2017

Ettore de Cesare – Neapolitan summer blazer...

June 30th 2017

In some ways, this navy jacket and topcoat from Ettore de Cesare are the antithesis of the Disguisery tweed jacket we featured last week. Ettore is a third-generation Neapolitan tailor known for his close-fitting, unstructured garments and leather ...

Ettore de Cesare – Neapolitan summer blazer...

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I'm not sure what it's called, but I always think of midnight as being something most people would look at and think was black. This is not that, I'd call it dark navy...

Coats - JacketsJune 30th 2017