As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used.
However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narrow point in the way a sleeve and a shoulder of a jacket are put together.
Specifically, it is the construction that means the sleeve looks like it runs underneath the shoulder - as it does on a shirt.
It does not necessarily mean a small shoulder, a natural shoulder, or a sleeve with more gathering at the top.
In this video, the third in a series that started by looking at the aspects of cut in a jacket, and then specifically comparing English and Neapolitan jackets, I spell out these points in a Neapolitan jacket.
Other recent videos include:
- How a bespoke suit can be repaired
- How to look after wool knitwear
- How to look after tailoring
- How polish shoes part 1 and part 2
- How to fold a handkerchief
- How to look after suede jackets
- How to look after good shoes
In this video, I am wearing a green corduroy suit from Ettore de Cesare (cut rather closer than most I have), with a chambray button-down shirt from Luca Avitabile and a printed-silk Drake's tie.
The three jackets on show are from Kathryn Sargent, Eduardo de Simone and Dalcuore.
Many thanks to Fox Brothers, who made this mini-series possible. More on their new Fox Tweed bunch here.
Film by Itch Media
Simon
It appears in this series of videos that the cuff buttons on your shirt, at least on your right sleeve, are undone. It also seems that the right side collar leaf is not buttoned either.
Does this reflect an emerging styling point that we are yet to be advised about?
Thanks
On the sleeve, no. This is just an old shirt and the sleeves are a little short, so unbuttoning them makes them a touch longer.
On the collar, I like to wear my buttondowns undone with ties sometimes, as I like the look of the point collar. Whether you like it or not gets into the whole sprezzatura debate, but it’s certainly not emerging!
Thanks Simon but only one of your collar leaves in unbuttoned, which is what prompted my question.
Actually they both are, it’s just that one of them is behaving itself and staying underneath the jacket collar, and the other is not.
Excellent video. Quintessential PS forensic analysis.
This series of videos comprise the most educational review of tailoring I’ve ever seen and are an absolute must for the thinking flaneur.
Personally I’d love you to do a style breakdown of your A&S Tobacco Corduroy DB suit. It’s one of the most beautiful items in your wardrobe and goes much unreported.
Nice explanation. I could never determine what a clear definition of spalla camicia should be, so I assumed it meant soft, rounded, natural shoulders. It never occurred to me that padding or shaping could be included in the overall description.
May I contribute?
The diagram here explains everything:
https://stiff-collar.com/2011/05/16/cigarette-versus-camicia
Great diagram, thank you
Would Caliendo be your recommendation for a natural sloping shoulder, where the sleeve and shoulder have been pressed flat, and little shoulder padding? Any other tailors? I see Dalcuore as a tad more formal.
I wouldn’t focus too much on whether the seam is made that way with the two sides being pressed flat. It doesn’t make much difference to the overall style. Just ask any Neapolitan for a natural shoulder, and no shirring/ripples if that’s what you want.
I’d recommend both Caliendo and Ciardi, the former for a slightly closer more modern cut, the latter for something slightly more relaxed and traditional
Any thoughts on Korean tailors like BN Tailor and 8people who also do natural shoulders and a similar aesthetic? Looks a bit different than the Italians but I’m not sure why. The shoulders and body seem to fit a tad larger on the Korean tailoring
Not particularly, but just because my experience with BN Tailor wasn’t great, so hard to comment on accurately, and I haven’t tried any others
Dear Simon,
I was wondering if you could help me understand the difference between “Spalla a mappina” & “Spalla camicia”?
My understanding is:
Spalla camicia (Shirt shoulder) – Armhole seam folded towards the shoulder, no shirring.
Spalla a mappina – Shirring on the sleeve head.
Is this correct?
Kind regards,
Nicholas
They aren’t necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top – the shirring. You can have one, both, or neither.
The issue is that the amount of shirring is often presumed by tailors when they talk about camicia, because it’s what they normally do. But it’s easy to specify otherwise
Hi Simon! Recently had a spalla camicia shoulder jacket made my a Neapolitan tailor. Does look right or did they overdo the extra fabric for shoulder ? Can it be corrected if wrong
Looks a little messy, yes
thanks Simon! have you had similar issues? should be an easy fix by tailor right?
I haven’t really, no.
I don’t think it will be easy I’m afraid as you’d have to take out the sleeve and then change how it is put into the armhole
will be returning it to the tailor in the coming days. should be able to redo it. was made by one of the neapolitan tailors that you have used in the past.
Ah OK, good to know
Simon, I have a lovely vintage Zegna tan single – breasted summer suit. However, the shoulders are unlike any other Zegna jacket I have owned – see attached photos. They are gathered. Does this look to you like they were produced with a ‘spalla camicia’ shoulder or that a previous owner has simply had the sleeves shortened at the sleeve head and the alteration has been poorly done? Either way would you have an alterations tailor ‘fix’ these sleeve heads by returning to a more conventional non – gathered look or leave as is? Thank You.
I’d say that’s probably deliberate – a question of more fullness being pushed towards the top of the sleeve, rather than about being spalla camicia or not. I wouldn’t mind it, but more a personal one as to whether you do.
2nd photo of sleeve head attached