As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used.
However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narrow point in the way a sleeve and a shoulder of a jacket are put together.
Specifically, it is the construction that means the sleeve looks like it runs underneath the shoulder - as it does on a shirt.
It does not necessarily mean a small shoulder, a natural shoulder, or a sleeve with more gathering at the top.
In this video, the third in a series that started by looking at the aspects of cut in a jacket, and then specifically comparing English and Neapolitan jackets, I spell out these points in a Neapolitan jacket.
Other recent videos include:
- How a bespoke suit can be repaired
- How to look after wool knitwear
- How to look after tailoring
- How polish shoes part 1 and part 2
- How to fold a handkerchief
- How to look after suede jackets
- How to look after good shoes
In this video, I am wearing a green corduroy suit from Ettore de Cesare (cut rather closer than most I have), with a chambray button-down shirt from Luca Avitabile and a printed-silk Drake's tie.
The three jackets on show are from Kathryn Sargent, Eduardo de Simone and Dalcuore.
Many thanks to Fox Brothers, who made this mini-series possible. More on their new Fox Tweed bunch here.
Film by Itch Media
