Outfits that define my week: Video with Bucherer
The watch company Bucherer recently made a 'Day in the Life' video about me, which they shared on their social media and I've included below. It includes some nice points about Permanent Style - how proud I am of the community it's become over the y...
Outfits that define my week: Video with Bucherer
Match in comments:
I'm not a foodie (Lucas will be able to say more) but I really like it. Nice relaxed atmosphere, good food and cocktails...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Match in comments:
Hey Andrew, Always as a suit myself. That look sounds like it shouldn't work, as you say. I suspect it may have been a combination of a few things that made it work - eg an old and worn-in jacket, worn undone, soft make ...
Introducing: The olive overshirt (and Summer rest...
This is the new colour of the PS Linen Overshirt - a pale olive green. I love it, but it is a touch unusual so I thought it was worth shooting with different colours, just to illustrate how I think it can work particularly nicely. The overshirt is ...
Introducing: The olive overshirt (and Summer rest...
Match in comments:
The watch pictured is a 1960s Tank Normale measuring 23 x 30mm...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale behind advice...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
Match in comments:
I'd say they are unusual, but not really more casual....
Introducing: The Finest Polo
This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar, and the same top-end merino. It is also...
Introducing: The Finest Polo
Match in comments:
It hasn't, but yes that's a nice idea...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that you can throw on for a video ph...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
Match in comments:
My thoughts would be: - The dark blue doesn't look that dark - The cut is a little 2000s, high buttoning point and notch - I wouldn't wear the wool with jeans - But, it looks nice in every other respect and a decent pric...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
Match in comments:
I'd say that's probably deliberate - a question of more fullness being pushed towards the top of the sleeve, rather than about being spalla camicia or not. I wouldn't mind it, but more a personal one as to whether you do...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
Match in comments:
Ah nice...
How I filter fashions
Fashions sweep through the world of classic menswear on a fairly regular basis – no matter how permanent we think our tastes and styles are. I find it pays to consider each carefully, and then over time decide which of three camps it falls int...
How I filter fashions
Match in comments:
Absolutely about making a statement...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
Match in comments:
I'd say cream to pale beige. Not a bright or strong colour. I don't know on that bunch I'm afraid...
The fashions of classic menswear
Although we sartorial enthusiasts aspire to style that lasts decades, not seasons, I think it's important to recognise the fashions we still follow. While we shun band T-shirts or 'ugly' trainers, we are still strongly influenced by our peers and th...
The fashions of classic menswear
Match in comments:
Nothing is really timeless - they go up and down over the decades just as lapel widths increase and decrease. But I like a slightly higher gorge, as it flatters the shoulders rather than the chest. And the absolute key i...
Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors
Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little English. It was nice to ha...
Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors
Match in comments:
Now that Gigi has died from COVID, do you know what is going to happen with Dalcuore? I see they are still doing trunk shows, but is the quality, fit, and cut going to be the same?...
How to dress for very hot weather
As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end of that mon...
How to dress for very hot weather
Match in comments:
To be honest, no probably not. While it is nice if your teenage daughters like how you dress, I wouldn't say they would be near the top of my priority list (my two eldest are also teenagers). My partner, me, and my cultu...
What I pack when I travel
As I return from two summer trips – one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples – it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, an...
What I pack when I travel
Match in comments:
I still use Rimowa when I'm checking something in, but I'm not sure I'd buy again today given the prices. I'm yet to find an alternative - everything people suggest is either worse quality or just as expensive....
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
Match in comments:
Thanks for the personal recommendation Howard....
Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore
The outfit I wore to present our Retailers Symposium last week was a donegal suit made by Dalcuore. I've liked the idea of a tweed suit for while - taking something so rural (as my mother would say, so 'Farmer Giles') and subverting its connotations...
Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore
Match in comments:
Thanks Jack...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy piece, so I thought I would ...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
Match in comments:
I think it's a nice cut, yes, and for a more formal shape I like it. I wouldn't necessarily do it in a Norfolk jacket though, as that's more of a country/casual piece. Also, I wouldn't necessarily recommend Sinclair them...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
Match in comments:
A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....
How to dress pale colours for summer
A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together – rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance between the pursuits o...
How to dress pale colours for summer
Match in comments:
If durability is a concern at all then maybe go with half lined on the front, yes. It's not that hard to take out later, as well...
Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit
I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the chest, perfect on the shoulde...
Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit
Match in comments:
I wouldn't think that would be a good idea, no. You want some difference in texture or pattern - applies to pretty much all identical materials...
Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit
*London trunk show details: February 18-20 [email protected] +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to prominence, getting coverage an...
Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit
Match in comments:
When your arms are hanging naturally at your sides, the cloth of the sleeve should be smooth. And not look smoother and less wrinkled if you move your arm forward or back...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more specialist t...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
Match in comments:
Thanks Gonis, I agree and it would be nice to cover...
