Andreas Weinas

 

A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together – rather than commissioning them.

I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance between the pursuits of style, of quality products, and of the fineries of tailoring, but my writing inevitably follows the direction of my activities. Always nice to have a corrective.

In this post, I thought I would make two points about wearing summer suits and jackets.

 

Douglas Cordeaux Fox Flannel

 

First, that in the buying of such pieces, it is often best to stick to quieter or muted versions of the bright cloths of summer. So pale grey rather than cream. Light brown rather than yellow.

Despite the colonial associations that this approach aims to avoid, its central theme of elegant conservatism is a deeply English one, and something that always made English style attractive to the rest of the world.

Using the images here from our ‘Rakish men’s’ breakfast in Florence as examples, note the pale-grey worsted of Andreas Weinas’s suit above top (made to measure from Eidos). The muted tone of my own cotton suit (from Caliendo). And the sugarbag-blue of Douglas Cordeaux’s above.

Even Greg Lellouche’s tobacco linen suit (below, ready-made from Formosa), is arguably more subtle than most summer suits offered by ready-to-wear brands, which feel the need to shout about the brightness of the day, rather than quietly reflect it.

 

Greg Lellouche No Man Walks Alone

 

My second point – focusing more on that reader’s request – is what these summer pieces are worn with.

Generally speaking, we have all chosen to combine them with either simple, conservative shirt-and-tie combinations, or very bold open-necked shirts.

So myself and Andreas wear white shirts and pretty muted ties. Both sit comfortably without the outfit and create a harmonious whole. Greg’s blue/white striped shirt is equally subtle.

 

Ethan Newton Brycelands

 

Ethan Newton (above) and George Wang (below) on the other hand, take the opportunity to wear strong colour and pattern in the summer sun – but do so in a casual shirt rather than a loud suit or tie.

Often a shirt is the perfect setting for such expression, where the same in a suit would be too loud, and in an accessory could look gimmicky.

Ethan’s solaro suit (from Dalcuore) is also a muted summer tone, and even George’s cream jacket below is in a thickly woven linen that creates a more matte, textured background to his bright shirt.

Hopefully that’s an interesting style angle for our reader to play with over the rest of the summer.

 

George Wang Brio

 

Photography: Jamie Ferguson

Below, Greg’s bag from Christian Kimber and hat from Post-Imperial, both from No Man Walks Alone.

 

Post-Imperial hat Christian Kimber bag

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Tak

Dear Simon,
thank you for the advice. Do you maybe know where the dotted shirt was made?

JG

Also worth noticing is that neither Newton nor Wang has stuffed their breast pocket. Does wonders for keeping the bold shirts under control.

MD

This was a very useful article, Simon. I love reading about your acquisitions too, but would really value more of this kind of writing.

Thanks

Matthew

Scott

Excellent article Simon, thank you. I really like your idea of using muted colors such as light grey and light brown.

Peter B

Hello Simon, why is this filed under hats?
Great post as always.

Jake

A nice piece, Simon.

What are your views on solaro suits, by the way?

Jake

P.S. For the record, Ethan’s combination does little for me- perhaps the photo doesn’t show it in its best light- whereas Andreas’ and yours stand out.

Anonymous

Solaro is one of the most elegant- of- all fabrics. But the real one is not for summer. is wool and is rather heavy. A mid season, sunny day only and never- ever at night, exceptional dress.
Luca
P.S. Ah, never double brested, btw.

Roy

I have a cream cotton unlined jacket that I love but never wear because I don’t have trousers in a colour that works. Trousers that are too dark look unbalanced and trousers that are pale (in the khaki and tan range) look like I’m wearing a mismatched suit. I’d be grateful for any recommendations.

Pwooster

I have found that a pair of cream linen trousers accompanied by snuff coloured suede shoes will look great,both casual and elegant.The difference in cloth between jacket and trousers works well even though the colour is the same.An alternative choice would be olive or tobacco linen trousers plus,of course,said suede shoes be they derby,oxford or loafer.

Charlie

Interesting article, thank you Simon. I wonder if you have any more info on George’s jacket. I like both the look of the cut and the fabric.

Jon

Absolutely love Georges jacket. I just wouldn’t be able to pull something like that off. Looks effortless.

Rabster

I’d add that the “putting together” articles hold more appeal as they cater for all budgets.

As for cloths for the summer would you limit it to cotton, linen , seersucker ?
And which cloth works well with which item e.g. linen for shirt, seersucker for jacket etc ?

Wes wp

Are you not a fan of silk suits or silk sport-coats for summer? I’m guessing Wang’s coat is silk and linen – but you seem to leave out the “s” word all together.

Reader

Simon, where is the top half of Cordeaux’s head?

Don Ferrando

I love Jamie Ferguson’s pictures!
Thank’s for posting them in your blog!

Ned Brown/Charleston, South Carolima

Simon,
Reminds me of the photographs the great Slim Aarons took 40 years ago of Italian aristocrats in their summer suits. Suit of choice was tan or tobacco, white shirt, black woven necktie, with a white linen handkerchief. Perhaps you can illustrate. Regards,

Gus

You and Cordeaux aside, I feel the looks are all far too contrived. And why do guys persist with these tie quirks?

A nice article nonetheless.

Marc

Can you say anymore about the fabric Douglas Cordeaux is wearing? I’m really taken by that shade of blue. Still rather conservative but also out of the ordinary. Looks like great texture as well. Is it a suit or a jacket?

Marc

Thanks in advance for any info on it. Is it a pure linen?

John

Hi Simon,
Strangely enough, I’ve also reached the same conclusion that muted colors for Summer are more elegant.
See here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2012/07/elia-caliendo-jacket.html
and here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/06/tommaso.html
Finding the right contrast between jacket and trousers in this case is a more daunting task!

John

Mads

Can I bother you with a technical question? I am facing the problem that the arm of my tailored dress shirts wrinkle/drape quite a lot in the area of the inside of my elbow (not sure what’s the anatomically correct term for this). Also this area (lower arm, just below the elbow) feels quite tight. Now, my tailor is convinced that this is “normal”, however I find this compression of material (think: accordion of fabric between my elbow and wrist) a bit strange.
I’m suspecting that the arm may be cut too long and that since the cuff is very tight the material naturally compresses were it can.
My alternative theory is that the arm may be cut too tight as I never faced that problem in my more American looking shirts.
To sum up I really like my shirts to fit tight, but I’d prefer to have less wrinkles. What should I tell my tailor?

Bst rgds!

Shannon W Hill

I’d like to know where the pale grey worsted cloth on Andreas was sourced. Despite its lightness in color, it still appears to have great depth.

Anonymous

Hey Simon,

Thanks for the constant inspiration, just reaching out to see whether you were able to track down that fabric?

Best,
J

David

Hi Simon,

Really enjoyed this article, especially as one living in the tropics. I have a question not really related, but I was wondering if you have had any experience with Kamakura shirts ?

Jorge Malo

Great advice Simon.
What’s your take on wearing white sneakers with a casual/summer suit?

DKP

Have noticed that in the first photo here and in other photos through out the site that there’s something going on with ties that I was taught as a young lad was a cardinal sin, i.e. that the “skinny” portion of a tie should NEVER extend beyond the length of the “fat” portion. Is this merely a rule of the past or was it never truly something observed by the well-dressed?

DKP

Interesting. That the back may extend past the front would seem to negate, somewhat, the precise nature of the front’s goal – but as you say, Fashion

Anonymous

Hello Simon, how would you describe Andreas’s jacket in terms of style? Am I mistaken or does it have some Florentine elements?

H

Its the Eidos “Ciro” model from Antonio Ciongoli’s era as creative director, Simon wrote about it briefly below in the context of having been offering made-to-measure by Marcus Malmborg – but it was probably popular the most popular suit in the classic menswear community circa 2015-2018. Definitely Florentine-inspired, but made in Naples at Isaia’s factory. You can’t get it anymore, but NoManWalksAlone has 3 RTW suits in a very similar style also by Eidos, and there are a lot of other similar cuts available elsewhere by different makers (Prologue, for example).

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/05/marcus-malmborg-eidos-made-to-measure-in-london.html

Anonymous

Thank you both!

Stewart Bone

I have to ask this tricky question: La Grande Bellezza terrace hammock scene. What is the fabric of the blue jacket? Even my tailor is baffled. We suspect a PoW check on blue…but the fabric? Linen? Very interested.

Jeriel

Is it advisable for solaro fabric be used to make a sports jacket instead of a full suit

Hugh

Could it work as a pair of odd trousers?

Hugh

How come? I’ve never seen the fabric in person. Is it too flashy? Or too unusual to sit nicely with other pieces?