A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together – rather than commissioning them.
I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance between the pursuits of style, of quality products, and of the fineries of tailoring, but my writing inevitably follows the direction of my activities. Always nice to have a corrective.
In this post, I thought I would make two points about wearing summer suits and jackets.
First, that in the buying of such pieces, it is often best to stick to quieter or muted versions of the bright cloths of summer. So pale grey rather than cream. Light brown rather than yellow.
Despite the colonial associations that this approach aims to avoid, its central theme of elegant conservatism is a deeply English one, and something that always made English style attractive to the rest of the world.
Using the images here from our ‘Rakish men’s’ breakfast in Florence as examples, note the pale-grey worsted of Andreas Weinas’s suit above top (made to measure from Eidos). The muted tone of my own cotton suit (from Caliendo). And the sugarbag-blue of Douglas Cordeaux’s above.
Even Greg Lellouche’s tobacco linen suit (below, ready-made from Formosa), is arguably more subtle than most summer suits offered by ready-to-wear brands, which feel the need to shout about the brightness of the day, rather than quietly reflect it.
My second point – focusing more on that reader’s request – is what these summer pieces are worn with.
Generally speaking, we have all chosen to combine them with either simple, conservative shirt-and-tie combinations, or very bold open-necked shirts.
So myself and Andreas wear white shirts and pretty muted ties. Both sit comfortably without the outfit and create a harmonious whole. Greg’s blue/white striped shirt is equally subtle.
Ethan Newton (above) and George Wang (below) on the other hand, take the opportunity to wear strong colour and pattern in the summer sun – but do so in a casual shirt rather than a loud suit or tie.
Often a shirt is the perfect setting for such expression, where the same in a suit would be too loud, and in an accessory could look gimmicky.
Ethan’s solaro suit (from Dalcuore) is also a muted summer tone, and even George’s cream jacket below is in a thickly woven linen that creates a more matte, textured background to his bright shirt.
Hopefully that’s an interesting style angle for our reader to play with over the rest of the summer.
Photography: Jamie Ferguson
Below, Greg’s bag from Christian Kimber and hat from Post-Imperial, both from No Man Walks Alone.
Dear Simon,
thank you for the advice. Do you maybe know where the dotted shirt was made?
No, but I can ask Ethan
Also worth noticing is that neither Newton nor Wang has stuffed their breast pocket. Does wonders for keeping the bold shirts under control.
This was a very useful article, Simon. I love reading about your acquisitions too, but would really value more of this kind of writing.
Thanks
Matthew
Good to know, cheers Matthew
Excellent article Simon, thank you. I really like your idea of using muted colors such as light grey and light brown.
Hello Simon, why is this filed under hats?
Great post as always.
Oops, I will re-categorise. Thanks
A nice piece, Simon.
What are your views on solaro suits, by the way?
Jake
P.S. For the record, Ethan’s combination does little for me- perhaps the photo doesn’t show it in its best light- whereas Andreas’ and yours stand out.
Not a fan of solaro really, nice shade of brown but never liked the red tones
Solaro is one of the most elegant- of- all fabrics. But the real one is not for summer. is wool and is rather heavy. A mid season, sunny day only and never- ever at night, exceptional dress.
Luca
P.S. Ah, never double brested, btw.
Thanks Luca, yes I know – interested as to why you consider it such an elegant fabric though. Please try to be specific and objective, as well as not relying on tradition. Why would a red/brown two-tone be elegant, when nothing similar is considered to be in any other area of tailoring? I’m honestly interested as I’ve never found a good answer
I have a cream cotton unlined jacket that I love but never wear because I don’t have trousers in a colour that works. Trousers that are too dark look unbalanced and trousers that are pale (in the khaki and tan range) look like I’m wearing a mismatched suit. I’d be grateful for any recommendations.
Mid-grey would be my go-to option
I have found that a pair of cream linen trousers accompanied by snuff coloured suede shoes will look great,both casual and elegant.The difference in cloth between jacket and trousers works well even though the colour is the same.An alternative choice would be olive or tobacco linen trousers plus,of course,said suede shoes be they derby,oxford or loafer.
Interesting article, thank you Simon. I wonder if you have any more info on George’s jacket. I like both the look of the cut and the fabric.
It’s a vintage linen I think, but again I can check
Absolutely love Georges jacket. I just wouldn’t be able to pull something like that off. Looks effortless.
I’d add that the “putting together” articles hold more appeal as they cater for all budgets.
As for cloths for the summer would you limit it to cotton, linen , seersucker ?
And which cloth works well with which item e.g. linen for shirt, seersucker for jacket etc ?
The acquisition pieces try to appeal to other budgets as well – eg tobacco suede shoes of any type, and then THESE tobacco suede shoes.
No, I’d include lightweight wools for suits and trousers particularly. And neither cotton or linen are limited to any item of clothing really
Are you not a fan of silk suits or silk sport-coats for summer? I’m guessing Wang’s coat is silk and linen – but you seem to leave out the “s” word all together.
I like silk in mixes. George’s is just linen though
Simon, where is the top half of Cordeaux’s head?
I love Jamie Ferguson’s pictures!
Thank’s for posting them in your blog!
Simon,
Reminds me of the photographs the great Slim Aarons took 40 years ago of Italian aristocrats in their summer suits. Suit of choice was tan or tobacco, white shirt, black woven necktie, with a white linen handkerchief. Perhaps you can illustrate. Regards,
Absolutely, wonderful example. I will
You and Cordeaux aside, I feel the looks are all far too contrived. And why do guys persist with these tie quirks?
A nice article nonetheless.
Can you say anymore about the fabric Douglas Cordeaux is wearing? I’m really taken by that shade of blue. Still rather conservative but also out of the ordinary. Looks like great texture as well. Is it a suit or a jacket?
Jacket. I can find the precise linen if it’s still available, although a lot of linen bunches have similar mid-blue/denim options.
Thanks in advance for any info on it. Is it a pure linen?
Hi Simon,
Strangely enough, I’ve also reached the same conclusion that muted colors for Summer are more elegant.
See here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2012/07/elia-caliendo-jacket.html
and here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/06/tommaso.html
Finding the right contrast between jacket and trousers in this case is a more daunting task!
John
Can I bother you with a technical question? I am facing the problem that the arm of my tailored dress shirts wrinkle/drape quite a lot in the area of the inside of my elbow (not sure what’s the anatomically correct term for this). Also this area (lower arm, just below the elbow) feels quite tight. Now, my tailor is convinced that this is “normal”, however I find this compression of material (think: accordion of fabric between my elbow and wrist) a bit strange.
I’m suspecting that the arm may be cut too long and that since the cuff is very tight the material naturally compresses were it can.
My alternative theory is that the arm may be cut too tight as I never faced that problem in my more American looking shirts.
To sum up I really like my shirts to fit tight, but I’d prefer to have less wrinkles. What should I tell my tailor?
Bst rgds!
Would you mind asking on a shirt-related post please? Thanks
I’d like to know where the pale grey worsted cloth on Andreas was sourced. Despite its lightness in color, it still appears to have great depth.
I’ll check, but remember many cloths used for RTW or even MTM for brands are exclusives and won’t be generally available
Hey Simon,
Thanks for the constant inspiration, just reaching out to see whether you were able to track down that fabric?
Best,
J
It was an exclusive for Eidos, so it’s not available I’m afraid
Hi Simon,
Really enjoyed this article, especially as one living in the tropics. I have a question not really related, but I was wondering if you have had any experience with Kamakura shirts ?
No, sorry
Great advice Simon.
What’s your take on wearing white sneakers with a casual/summer suit?
Full post coming on how to wear sneakers. Otherwise have a look at my ‘Which office are you’ post
Have noticed that in the first photo here and in other photos through out the site that there’s something going on with ties that I was taught as a young lad was a cardinal sin, i.e. that the “skinny” portion of a tie should NEVER extend beyond the length of the “fat” portion. Is this merely a rule of the past or was it never truly something observed by the well-dressed?
Not really observed, no, but these are all fashions really – just some last longer than others, often when they have more practical benefit.
The rule generally prescribed to now is that the front blade should end around the waistband of your trousers. That is the most important part and the part to focus on the length of. The back blade is then whatever length it has to be, and can be longer or be tucked in.
Interesting. That the back may extend past the front would seem to negate, somewhat, the precise nature of the front’s goal – but as you say, Fashion
Hello Simon, how would you describe Andreas’s jacket in terms of style? Am I mistaken or does it have some Florentine elements?
Hard to tell from the photos, or remember, but yes there are some influences there – such as the straight lapel and the extended shoulder. But also Neapolitan ones
Its the Eidos “Ciro” model from Antonio Ciongoli’s era as creative director, Simon wrote about it briefly below in the context of having been offering made-to-measure by Marcus Malmborg – but it was probably popular the most popular suit in the classic menswear community circa 2015-2018. Definitely Florentine-inspired, but made in Naples at Isaia’s factory. You can’t get it anymore, but NoManWalksAlone has 3 RTW suits in a very similar style also by Eidos, and there are a lot of other similar cuts available elsewhere by different makers (Prologue, for example).
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/05/marcus-malmborg-eidos-made-to-measure-in-london.html
Thanks
Thank you both!
I have to ask this tricky question: La Grande Bellezza terrace hammock scene. What is the fabric of the blue jacket? Even my tailor is baffled. We suspect a PoW check on blue…but the fabric? Linen? Very interested.
Is it advisable for solaro fabric be used to make a sports jacket instead of a full suit
Generally no, Solaro looks better as a suit
Could it work as a pair of odd trousers?
I wouldn’t recommend it, no
How come? I’ve never seen the fabric in person. Is it too flashy? Or too unusual to sit nicely with other pieces?
It would be a little like a suit material, in being quite smooth/shiny.
Then it would have the herringbone texture, which is a little unusual in trousers.
And then there’s the unusual, very slightly flashy two-tone colour.
As a general rule odd trousers should be pretty plain and conservative
Hi Simon,
I am looking at summer suiting, and am torn between a fresco, fresco lite, and a tropical worsted from Scabal’s Capri book. Do you think there will be a noticeable stiffness of either of the former by comparison to the latter? Although I’m usually in favor of crisper lines and heavier fabrics ( I went with Fox’s 18/19 oz flannel for my grey trousers this winter) I think I’d like something a little more flowing for my summer outfit – especially as a 25 year old in a khaki/tan suit.
I can’t really say having not tried the Scabal, or even looked at it closely. Sorry
That’s quite alright! Thanks for your honesty. On a somewhat related note, do you think a cotton whipcord could make a good suit, as a beater – something casual? Or is it solely for trousers?
I’ve never tried cotton whipcord to be honest, so hard to say, only wool
Hi Simon.
Excuse me if I’ve missed this, but scrolling through this article and the comments I was not able to espy any details about your light brown suit.
Could you please enlighten me on the fabric – colour, material and weight is what interests me?
Just from the photos it looks like a cotton in light walnut, but photos often deceive.
Thanks.
Yes, it’s a 90z cotton from Holland & Sherry, in light walnut. Details here
Thank you.
Fox Brothers have a lovely textured high-twist woollen cloth in walnut that I’m tempted to try as a suit (Fox Air, FA36).
They also have a light grey in that bunch (FA12) that may be a passable appreciation for Andreas’ suit.
Andreas’s is a high-twist and would work in that way, absolutely. Mine would be rather different in a high-twist I think – I had one like that years ago and it always looked a bit too colonial for me. I think that’s one of the reason Solaro is popular – it’s just a good colour in that kind of shade
Simon,
A question around summer suiting. I am following your advice and having a tabacco linen, green linen and navy seersucker suit made for the summer. My sarto has suggested I get the pants lined down the front until the knee area. The jacket of course will be quarter lined – but im very back and forth on the pants, I’m worried that lining them down the front until the knee will remove breathability but not doing so would remove some comfort. Now, I have to wear a suit and tie to the office everyday so perhaps the lining will come in handy durability wise- I live in Zurich so it gets hot but now sweltering.
Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks!
If durability is a concern at all then maybe go with half lined on the front, yes. It’s not that hard to take out later, as well