This is our friend Tommaso Capozzoli. He is, among many other things, the sales manager for Stefano Bemer, and we usually stay with him when we’re in Florence.
Tommaso has style. It is not loud, and it’s unlikely to stand out at Pitti, but it is subtle and personal, much as I wish mine to be. He used to run a menswear shop in Florence and this unlined jacket is one of theirs, with trousers from Giabs (good Italian producer, mostly wholesale but some reatail). He uses a local tailor in Florence for suits, made with narrow, high-waisted trousers and 2-inch turn-ups.
This image was taken the night we arrived, as he waited outside Sostanza, slowly smoking his Tuscan cigar. Next morning, it was navy long-sleeved polo and old, pale jeans. In both cases, with well-worn Bemer shoes.
Tommaso says he doesn’t want to be a style icon. But he always says it with this smile on this face. I don’t believe him.
Photography: Luke Carby
On a related note – do you have tips for RTW chinos (in london or online)? I wear incotex but keen to try other brands. Would also like to other options like pleats etc…
Incotex is my mainstay im afraid
Worth taking a look at Epaulet, particularly the duck canvas chinos.
I have Incotex, but I also recently tried 2 new Italian brands which I highly recommend:
Marco Pescarolo – made in Naples. (Pricier than Incotex)
Frasi – Simone Righi’s brand. Very beautiful, outsourced to a smaller white label trouser maker as I understand it.
The guy above does have a great style, pretty standard for well dressed guys in Northern Italy in my experience.
The riddle is why you Brits need Italian trousers. What happened to the British trouser? If you insist the Italian mill is superior, the same question arises?
There are no factories making a high level of trouser in the UK Peter. It’s got nothing to do with mills – anyone can use cloth from anywhere
I meant if one answers the question why aren’t satisfactory trousers manufactured in UK by replying because the mills which weave the best quality trouser cloth are in Italy, this answer is not satisfactory, as you point out, Simon. You say the Italian cloth could be imported to UK and trousers made. But you, a Brit with great interest in clothes, are dissatisfied, or better, prefer trousers made in Italy! That’s amazing that no British trouser manufacturer is good enough for you! What happened to UK trouser manufacturing?
Ovadia and Sons, Full Count & Warehouse all do great chinos.
Everything very neatly done. One question: do the braces have clips or buttons? And do you have an opinion on the matter when it comes to casual trousers like these?
Clips. I don’t wear braces, but clips are fine…
Simon, do you think a jacket like this is a worthwhile commission for a tailor? I like the make and material of Boglioli jackets but think they’re too tight and short.
Yes, but it would have to be at least Neapolitan to be soft enough, and hear in mind a tailor-made one would never have the same softness of material or worn look because of the garment washing and dying the RTW makers do
Don’t you think his jacket sleeve is too long?
Do you have any idea when (and if) there is going to be a new round of the dartmoor? Fall is closing in!
And if you have the time: Do you think the forrest green Dorset by JS (http://www.johnsmedley.com/uk/ss14-dorset-in-forest-green) would go with a blazer in this green donegal fabric by Ariston: http://38.media.tumblr.com/e1aae2fcdceb5699f785e578b5903174/tumblr_n6odnxboiq1s24dz1o1_1280.jpg ? A navy would probably be better, but I really like the forrest green.
Will let you know when I have any news on the Dartmoor. It’s hard to tell. On the images without seeing them in the flesh, but I think you’re right navy would be better
Hi Simon. Thanks for this amazing blog. I am looking to buy my first pair of black tie shoe and I am hoping you can give me some advice! This would be for not-too-formal events like charity / member club balls and weddings. I work in a casual dress office so I don’t need versatility here.
1) patent vs calf leather. Is patent too formal / loud (because of the shine)? Is patent higher maintenance? I hear more and more people are wearing calf to black tie events..
2) plain vs cap vs wholecut? Again, caps becoming more common / acceptable? or just makes you look silly? What do you wear?
3) if my budget is 2-300 quid, recommendation on brands? I know english shoes are very high quality but are the designer labels more stylish? (I am in my 20’s)
Thanks for your help! – Jon
I’d avoid patent – less versatile, and it’s just a plastic layer, essentially.
Go for calf whole-cuts, or plain-toed, if you can.
And polish them to a high shine!
Surely it’s Tomasso? (one m, two s)?
Nope, two ms, one s
As everyone knows, it is a general rule of thumb to button your jacket when standing.
This is a rule I adhere to, but recently I’ve been leaving my jackets unbuttoned (taking inspiration from people such as Tommaso Capozzoli), as I feel like it comes across as more casual.
While I agree that jackets look good when buttoned, I do believe that leaving a jacket unbuttoned whilst standing can also look flattering.
As a result, I wanted to know your opinion on this topic and why famed style icons who may understand this rule still choose to break it?
They do so for relaxation, as you say, although it will always remove much of the point of a well tailored garment