Stoffa the designer Part 2: The clothes
Last week, I wrote about why Stoffa is my favourite designer brand. They're a designer to the extent that they create less-classic garments, and are design (particularly fabric) led. Yet they also have many of the characteristics that we value on Pe...
Stoffa the designer Part 2: The clothes
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I believe you can order a straight fit washable chino-style trouser in a wide range of the fabrics you see in their lookbook via MTM (or perhaps you can ask for a stock RTW size). Worth getting in touch....
Stoffa is my favourite designer
“Special things often need explanation. Because they’re special, they’re unusual, and so not familiar. Whether through writing or imagery or trying, they need that little bit of explanation.” I recently reconnected with the g...
Stoffa is my favourite designer
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It’s their sweatshirt, sweatpants, etc. I wear pretty much everything else for work...
Thoughts on A Presse (and fashion silhouettes)
I’ve found the recent growth of popularity in Japanese brand A Presse quite interesting. Because while there are lots of things I like and admire about the brand, it feels like it’s often misrepresented. A Presse is sometimes described a...
Thoughts on A Presse (and fashion silhouettes)
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I’m 6’3” 225 lbs and the A.Presse experience has been an experiment for me. Unlike The Real McCoys, who perpetually insist on sleeve lengths that accommodate an elf, A.Presse does have longer sleeves but the body l...
If you only had five casual jackets – Summer
The Buck Mason belted-back chore coat Casual jackets and coats are one area we’ve yet to cover in our Wardrobe Building series . Mostly that’s because it’s such a huge topic – there are dozens of styles, from chores to blo...
If you only had five casual jackets – Summer
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Thanks Lawrence...
August Special, Besnard, Haversack: Autumn highli...
1. Snow Peak Boa Fleece jacket £220, Large If a Permanent Style reader wanted a good fleece - for park wear as much as mountain wear - this Snow Peak one ticks most of the boxes. It’s a nice style, in a good fleece, without any obvious b...
August Special, Besnard, Haversack: Autumn highli...
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Black, but the taupe would be nice and I don't think get dirty over time....
New York: A menswear shopping guide
New York is a strange town for menswear. It doesn’t have the same traditional shops as Europe and bespoke is substantially undermined by visitors from Savile Row. If there is a tradition, it’s for value and department stores: low-priced s...
New York: A menswear shopping guide
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It depends on your body shape a little Edwin, and then how much you care about a nuanced fit. Do you just want the right length, sleeve length, waist etc, or do you want something closer to bespoke...
How does Paris compare to Pitti? Pendleton, Frizm...
Boots on display at Viberg, at Man/Woman; above, Welcome Edition This past January, after Pitti, I went to see the equivalent shows in Paris for the first time. I’d never been before and was interested to see how it compared to Pitti in terms ...
How does Paris compare to Pitti? Pendleton, Frizm...
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No, sorry Avi...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
by Philipp Fröhlich Between 1966 and 1970, Barnett Newman, a prominent figure in abstract expressionism, painted four versions of a painting he called ‘Who's Afraid of Red, Yellow and Blue’ (above). I assume Newman foresaw the intim...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
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My rule is akin to the doctors' oath to "first do no harm". In other words, with an outfit, avoid major blunders and you have done 90% of what's needed. If a tie is dramatic in pattern, the shirt and jacket must be subdu...
Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?
A few weeks ago, a reader asked my opinion on a pair of suede boots that were clearly a copy of the popular Open Walk from Loro Piana . That soft, unlaced chukka has become so widespread in a few short years that some don’t even recognise them...
Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?
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Well I'd argue there's another point on top of this one to make. Quality. Recently, my wife needed a pair of new shoes. She previously had both a pair of Clark's, and a pair of "More expansive brand" (to respect anonymit...
If you only owned five pieces of knitwear: A caps...
I’ve had a few requests over the years to do one of these, our wardrobe-building guides , about knitwear. One of the challenges of doing so is that very little is right or wrong, and a lot is personal. Still, there are some helpful things ...
If you only owned five pieces of knitwear: A caps...
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Thanks Mark. No, shawls are a lot easier than half zips with collared things, as the shawl collar is softer and less sticky-uppy (for want of a better phrase). Still, I would usually wear shawl collars with softer collar...
Reader Profile: Jeff
Jeff Hilliard is Director of Limited Editions at Hodinkee, the watch magazine/empire in New York. But he used to work at The Armoury, until 2017, and then did two years at Mr Porter. So while not strictly working in menswear today, he is certainly m...
Reader Profile: Jeff
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Sorry about the late reply here but anyone knows of a similar fabric to the Corcos jacket one? I know Jeff mentioned it is a vintage silk and linen fabric, so not available anymore. But something similar would be nice. L...
Wearing pink: Tips and combinations
By Manish Puri “That was the day I learned how dangerous a color can be. That a boy could be knocked off that shade and made to reckon his trespass. Even if color is nothing but what the light reveals, that nothing has laws, and a boy on a pin...
Wearing pink: Tips and combinations
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Yes the images from bad clothing choices can be disturbing when details are revealed. point made...
Christmas gift list 2022: Towelling, tooling and ...
1 Double-breasted towelling robe Anderson & Sheppard, £395 The sartorial design of this robe from Anderson & Sheppard is so satisfying. It basically has ulster-coat lapels, with one buttoning under the chin when the collar is u...
Christmas gift list 2022: Towelling, tooling and ...
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I think the off-white x beige is the best yes, even with those trousers...
Reader profile: David
This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. It's wort...
Reader profile: David
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I know i am sounding like a broken record but the reader profile..another well dressed young man....keep it up!!!! Peace...
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent ...
Over the past year, Agyesh Madan at Stòffa and I have been talking about how to create something useful together on sustainability. Today’s article is our first step. It sets out a definition of sustainability, and then a framework of ...
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent ...
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Hey Anders, Thanks for raising it, I hadn't heard about it no. I'd be sceptical about how much information the site has to be honest. Very little will be publicly available, particularly for a lot of the menswear compani...
Reader profile: Manish
Sometimes I feel a bit envious of brands holding trunk shows, because they meet so many more PS readers than I do. I see people at occasional events, and of course the pop-ups once or twice a year, but that's about it. So one of the nice things ab...
Reader profile: Manish
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Indeed it does. Thanks so much!...
Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...
Reviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style. The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing at the bottom sits on top of th...
Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...
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Not in something very close in style, no. Our Cashmere Rugby is a beautiful piece but a more classic style and cut...
How clothing kept me sane
Something that has consistently surprised me over the past year of this horrible pandemic, is the friends - especially in the menswear industry - that have lost some interest in what they wear every day. I offer no kind of opinion on that choice, a...
How clothing kept me sane
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Good article but then again I find all of them enjoyable..enjoy your day.......
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combination that feels new, becaus...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
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It's hard sometimes to quantify precisely, because of the combination of gauge and ply - the gauge meaning it might be chunky hard but it's more loosely put together. Our shawl is a little like that....
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps looking at a few outfits of his...
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
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Love the penny loafers worn barefoot! Very hot look...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But they always felt like old m...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
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Yes they are, you're right, but I did wear them for long enough. The basketweave doesn't hold its shape that well, but that's not really it's style. It's a soft cloth and the appeal I think is that it manages to be a lit...
Best Brand 2018: Drake’s (or, how to expand...
Best Brand of the Year: Drake's Runners up: Stoffa, Private White VC The Permanent Style award for ‘Brand of the Year’ was understandably the hardest to define of our five awards - launched a few weeks ago. People can like brands for m...
Best Brand 2018: Drake’s (or, how to expand...
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I'm not sure on which ones are made where to be honest Malcolm. It has varied a bit. The Portugal ones I've seen and talked to other readers about haven't had as nice a collar and had more variation/shrinkage...
Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Ca...
One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is read...
Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Ca...
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I never did a full piece on it I'm afraid. But those trousers were in heavy Pardessus cloth that Holland & Sherry no longer sells, made by Elia Caliendo. The shirt is in Everyday Denim made by Luca Avitabile, and the sho...
Brands need to talk about product
There are several ways to define the menswear world we write about. As classic style, for instance, or about quality and craft. Also as luxury, given such quality is expensive. But one aspect that is rarely emphasised, and should be more in my opini...
Brands need to talk about product
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Well, my main point was, that the quality is often not there. I don't have an issue with paying a premium price for a premium product, but I won't pay it for an average or even below average product. Here's an example: R...
Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review
Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London. Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and modern, with jackets and trouser...
Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review
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Sorry, I just read you note about their pricing changes above. More than fair. Would rather pay $1800 at Stoffa then $3500 at The Row. Thanks....
