“Special things often need explanation. Because they’re special, they’re unusual, and so not familiar. Whether through writing or imagery or trying, they need that little bit of explanation.”
I recently reconnected with the guys at Stoffa after a few years of being out of touch. I did so, partly, because my recent article on A Presse reminded me how Stoffa really is my preferred version of that kind of brand.
Both develop unusual, distinctive products with custom fabrics. The fits and silhouettes aren’t always for me, but I find the designer-led approach consistently interesting.
The difference with Stoffa is that in each collection there will always be one or two things that fit my style – and my particular wardrobe – in a way that doesn’t happen with A Presse or other fashion brands. They remain close enough to classic menswear ideas.
Then the wonderful thing is how utterly unique those pieces are – whether it’s the fabric, the design or the silhouette. Stoffa is a designer brand in that sense – at least today – and in that way different to most we cover.
It helps that Stoffa always starts with fabric, rather than the ideas of shape and silhouette that designers usually begin with. Custom fabric has always been part of Stoffa’s approach - it’s what the name means.
Going back nine years to when we first covered Stoffa, the first piece I made was a pair of trousers in their basketweave cotton (above). It felt completely different to what I was seeing from tailors or MTM brands - matte, washed and naturally dyed, it was elegant but relaxed.
Since then the range of fabrics has expanded considerably, and you can see them all listed on the fabric page here. There are also deep dives into them here. Stoffa is expensive, but when you read about the work that goes into that fabric (and you personally value it) it’s hard not to see the value.
Unique fabrics means unusual fabrics, which means they won’t necessarily be for you. An example is the fig silk blouson, which I tried recently (above). As Nick and Agyesh put it: “That was our most adventurous piece of the season, the extreme version of the silhouette.”
It’s made with a silk crepe designed for summer shirts, which means it's light and flyaway. It’s also made in a shirt workshop, which means finer needle stitching and finishing. It’s beautiful, but certainly not for everyone.
The mistake I consistently made with Stoffa over the years, I think, was looking at the brand as a whole and assuming I would either wear all of it or none of it. It was either a brand for me, or it wasn’t.
I loved those basket-weave trousers, and eventually had three pairs made in different colours. But I was surprised that the suede flight jacket didn’t work for me. I should have seen the difference – one was more classic, the other more unusual, too cropped and wide for the style I like in a jacket.
This is the case with most designers I find - even the biggest fans wouldn’t buy everything. Instead, they appreciate the range and freshness of new ideas, and enjoy picking out which ones they buy into.
Perhaps the biggest difference between Stoffa and other fashion brands is that Stoffa was built around made to order, and most clothes still work on that basis.
This means that if you like the silhouette of a jacket but it’s a little short on you, you can add length. If you need one size in a shirt’s body but another in the collar, that can be done. You shouldn’t try and change the intended design (another mistake I’ve made in the past) but you can make the design work a lot better for your shape than at other brands.
I might cover this more in depth in a follow-up article, as I know readers will want to know which current Stoffa pieces we recommend, and which we’d have made to measure or not.
Stoffa have always followed their own path, yet they feel more relevant today than ever. The world has turned towards their muted colours and drapey silhouettes, and places more value on their natural processes and sustainability focus.
It makes complete sense to me now that a reader I know would want to get married in a Stoffa suit – in a pale pistachio wool, with wide-legged trousers and a cream knitted top. It feels very much a contemporary version of elegance.
My problem has always been that I hugely admired the people and the brand, but didn’t quite know how to wear it in my style. Seeing Stoffa as a designer for me to pick and choose from - rather than a haberdasher to fill all my needs - has made a big difference.
Quote used at the top: from Nick (Ragosta) at Stoffa, during our conversation. It summed up for me why I sometimes struggled with their designs, but also the value PS can perhaps provide in talking about them.
These are my thoughts exactly, sitting in the sun in Stoffa shorts and shirt. Lovely people and lovely service. The clothes also last and last, so you can build a wardrobe over time. Important to note that it never feels overstated despite the elevated experience of wearing them.
For me, it’s The Anthology that, in my opinion, follows a similar, although somewhat less design driven concept. The problem for me with Stoffa is the price and the fact that it’s hard to come by in the EU. The same goes for The Anthology, but the prices are more moderate and the upmark from getting the products directly from the US is less.
Thanks Markus. I wouldn’t really consider the Anthology, much as I love them, a designer brand. What they do is much more classic, in terms of the models, fits and materials.
On Stoffa price, it is expensive, but you can see what goes into it easily, particularly in terms of fabric development. That might not be what you value of course, but a core point I want to get across with these articles is that you do get something different for your money – a garment that is much more special in terms of how particular and unusual it is. That’s what designer brands offer that’s different to most makers we cover.
And Stoffa is less expensive than other brands that offer that, such as A Presse, Adret, Stone Island others we’ve mentioned
I think Adret should not sit in the same sentence as the brands mention. Very different beast.
In what way, Simon?
My point is simply that there is a difference between a brand known for defining a category and brands participating in it, and because the comparison reduces a much larger story to a price comparison.
To be clear Simon, are you saying Adret defines this category? Stoffa have been around for rather longer
On price, I don’t mean to suggest that it is the only difference between Stoffa and Adret, particularly on design-led brands like this that are so much more creative. But it is relevant context when people talk about Stoffa being expensive, given how much work they do on exclusive fabrics, and indeed it being something Adam emphasises a lot
Simon C – what other differences do you perceive?
My own sense is somewhat in line with Simon H’s. That isn’t to knock Stoffa, or the other brands.
Rather, to me, Adret is something of a “Tlön, Uqbar, and Orbis Tertius” phenomenon. It is a little world and culture kind of unto itself. Of course, I like the place, the people, and I have a lot of respect for everyone involved. And I appreciate we are in the realms of each to their own taste.
To be honest I think Stoffa creates just as much it’s old world view, aesthetically and culturally. Their imagery has always has that unique look, as has their colour palette and fabrics.
The store has it a little less, but the approach to sales and the staff probably more so and consistent. The production has also always been championed and written about, and makes exclusive techniques and models for them.
The differences between the two are about aesthetics and design primarily, as they are in differentiating Adret from other small designer brands. Stoffa is also different however in its focus on MTO and MTM, and attention on that. Adret is more unusual mostly in its approach to marketing and private customer service, though that’s also been a trend for a while.
Thank you for the response.
I see the make at Adret as high quality. Evidently, handwork in almost everything (although this isn’t necessarily better). And if I’ve ever had a problem with anything, or needed to alter a piece, it’s been resolved/fixed.
I’ll try to check out Stoffa when I’m next in NYC. Perhaps I’ll be better able to make a comparison after a visit!
Yes, nice idea.
To be honest I’d say I find the Stoffa to be just as good quality wise, with more work in some places. Less handwork but it’s not something you need in this type of clothing necessarily, as you say
I love Stoffa. The clothes are high-quality, well-designed, thoughtful and stylish. Agyesh is a gentleman too. I still wear my chocolate brown suede field coat as much as I did when I bought it, and I can’t say that for all my clothes sadly. Their more recent aesthetic that’s straighter cut/more louche is something I find harder to wear but your article resonates – I could see myself wearing one of their band collar shirts over tee/underlayer in summer maybe. Thanks for the fresh perspective Simon.
All that being said, it’s a real pain to try their clothes in the UK nowadays (unless there are trunk shows I’ve missed?). Crying shame.
I too miss the days Agyesh used to come to London himself every six weeks with the latest fabrics and cuts. Stoffa is a wonderful brand but I think it has be seen and tried to be appreciated and select the right pieces.
I imagine the price point works better in New York than it does in London these days which is a sorry thing to say about our economy.
I love Stòffa, even though some of the prices are a bit hard to swallow nowadays. It pairs well with The Row and similar designers. (And yes, I realize that in one sentence I’m complaining about Stòffa’s current prices and in the next I’m mentioning The Row.)
The knitwear collection also goes surprisingly well with jeans—a look I was inspired by Monica from Friends.
Nice reminder Simon. I have a few pairs of their MTM trousers which were inspired by your coverage here. The fabrics are indeed interesting and excellent as is the make and service. I also note (think?) their fabrics rotate, perhaps seasonally (e.g. I don’t see any flannels now), so good to check in periodically. Not everything in their collection is to my taste, but I’ve found a few gems that serve me well.
Thanks Paul, yes that’s right on the fabrics. Always important to remember how much everything is made to order as well, so fabrics are often available the rest of the year, and there are ones only available MTO
I like the shorts I see on their website. Even though they seem to not be high waist enough. But they do have a good proportioned wide leg. And for that price I can have 2 pcs made at SuitSupply.
You could Sebastian, just be aware that you’re not comparing exactly the same thing, in terms of fabric, design or service. A point worth making is also that as you get further along in your sartorial journey, you don’t want just basics sometimes, but things that are more special or have greater integrity, or various other factors
I recently bought a cashmere/linen scarf from Stoffa in the “fig” colour. It’s exactly what I hoped it would be and instantly elevates a simple transitional season outfit. A lot of their other stuff is a bit too expensive for my budget (and maybe also a bit too refined for my style and needs). But I can appreciate the thought process behind all of their designs and makes the brand stand out the most to me are their colour choices and textures… they are second to none… yet the choices are so subtle that their pieces still seem to mix well with other non-Stoffa items (the fig colour is a great example)
how timely to read: “Special things often need explanation. Because they’re special, they’re unusual, and so not familiar. Whether through writing or imagery or trying, they need that little bit of explanation” the day after Ferrari introduced their first all-electric car to (being kind) mixed reviews.
Stoffa is a great, singular brand and it’s easier to incorporate their pieces into a more traditional wardrobe than it might appear at first glance.
One especially nice thing about Stoffa is that they’ll significantly modify the silhouette of some items in the MTO program if you request it. I love their unique cloths and fabric-led approach, but the billowing silhouette as highlighted in the lookbooks is not for me. I now have four or five pairs of their trousers (which I think, incidentally, are actually cut and sewn by Rota) in a much more timeless silhouette than their RTW equivalents, and with my preferred details, but still in the wonderful Stoffa fabrics and colors. I also love their undyed cashmere knits.
Thanks, yes as mentioned the MTO aspect is a big part of that appeal
Hi Simon
are Stoffa and Saman Amel similar?
I have never worn either but am intrigued.
Hey Joners,
Good question actually, because I’d say they’re not, at least in the ways I talk about here.
Both make a high-end luxury product, and both to an extent have a tonal, muted aesthetic.
But Saman Amel’s products are much more classic, in their style, their cut and their fabrics. They do some of their own unique fabrics now, but it’s nothing compared to the Stoffa development.
So I’d say that even though superficially they might look similar, they’re actually very different and suit a different person, wardrobe, style, probably priorities too
I greatly enjoy their designs and especially the colour palette, but I haven’t really purchased anything in some years. Their fabrics are cool, but I miss when they offered more items in plain pique, wools, and cottons. They seem to love to add silk and cashmere to everything now, which makes them a pain to clean, less durable, and not to mention drives up the price quite significantly.
I do realize I’m griping about the fabrics of a brand you specifically mentioned “starts with fabric”, ha
Yes I think they’ve become less classic in that regard, and I think I’m with you in that I would buy less as a result. But they’ve also become more special, and there are quite a few brands out there now doing more classic things
Simon can you please explain the appeal of a DB sports coat without an outer breast pocket, or lapel button holes? I’m befuddled…
It’s actually their shirt-jacket Isaac, and I will talk more in a subsequent piece about combining those two types of garments together.
I will be very interested in reading your thoughts in the forthcoming piece. I have been wearing Stoffa’s shirt jacket in this style for a few years. I have two (one heavier, one more of lighter weight silk blend) and they work wonderfully for me. Even better than I had hoped at purchase.
An old favorite of mine. I still miss the old days of a few unique pieces in a range of fabrics, I have to admit. It felt a lot more special back then.
Their current offering is still nice though, but between the different drops I find I’m slightly less interested every time, it’s become quite repetitive. I guess you could find that strange as I just said their smaller range was perhaps even more exciting, but then it was about how similar pieces could be interpreted and styled in so many ways depending on the material and color etc. I quite miss their old campaigns.
The blouson is for me the best looking piece of the latest collection, but I’ve not tried it on, so I’ve no idea how it would actually work for me.
I completely understand what you’re saying about the prices, but as a long time customer it’s also hard to justify the same pair of trousers being 2-3x more expensive than they used to be, or certain pieces of outerwear being well within bespoke range pricing now, for a wool coat.
Having said that, everything in the world has gotten more expensive and they now have a bigger collection and store in New York, that costs a lot too, for sure, and I still find pieces like their asymmetric coat unique and beautiful. Their field jacket is still the best looking one I’ve ever seen.
I really, really wish they would resume trunk shows though, I’ve talked to customers in UK and Sweden who are not buying their products anymore simply because they can’t or won’t do it remotely, and indeed I am one of them. To me, their product is so much about the fabric, I really want to touch and try it. And with such a big range and different cuts now, it’s a lot harder remotely.
It’s a good point JB, on the travel and on specialness. I think there’s less familiarity now from your point of view, and the range has got a lot bigger so it makes more of a difference that you can’t see those pieces in person
Another long term Stoffa customer here – mainly MTM. Worth saying that you can pick up their pieces on Mr Porter too (I just bought some trousers half price after being prompted by this article).
Love hearing from Simon and the rest of the PS team about which contemporary RTW brands they’re enjoying.
On Stoffa: I’m often reminded of their styles and aesthetic when browsing A Kind of Guise – although AKOG’s fabrics and colour palette are louder, and the cut of their tailoring more rakish (sometimes off-puttingly so). AKOG also lacks any MTO or MTM programs, and seem more inclined towards the status of a ‘lifestyle brand’ than of a clothing label or atelier. However, some of their styles do look very appealing, especially for when travelling in warmer months/climates.
I’d be interested in whether any of the PS team, or some fellow readers, can offer any insight into the quality of AKOG’s clothing (particularly their tailoring), as I’ve always hesitated when considering more expensive pieces from this label due to the relative lack of available information on their manufacturing practices, quality of make and fabric sourcing.
How good are they at MTM today? I bought some stuff from Stoffa when they were quite new (a pair of trousers and a field jacket). Both were delivered (not by Agyesh who made the measuring but by their Swedish agent) and were too small. I tried to argue with the agent about that but it didn’t lead to anything. Maybe I should have tried to reach Agyesh but I didn’t. (I was quite new into menswear at that time and didn’t knew my rights).
I haven’t had anything made to measure for a long time, but I hope to soon. My fits were always OK, though as mentioned I did have issues with getting the right style
18 months ago, I decided to refresh my wardrobe after taking a new role that called for a slightly more elevated way of dressing. I had first discovered Stoffa about six years earlier and owned a few pieces, but this time I decided to fully commit and concentrate most of my clothing purchases with the brand.
Since then, I’ve replaced the majority of my wardrobe. I wear Stoffa in almost every setting: practicewear for coffee runs and parent duties on weekends, undyed jeans with a polo or knit tee for casual outings, basketweave trousers for work, and an SB shirt jacket for weddings and other events. Most days, I’m dressed head to toe in Stoffa. I recently ordered several linen pieces for summer and already have my eye on an overcoat and a few knitwear pieces for winter.
Unlike many readers, I’m fortunate enough to live in New York and interact with the brand in person. Sonny has been an exceptional representative. Beyond helping dial in fit and alterations, he is a genuine enthusiast for the brand and does a great job showcasing different ways to wear the clothes.
A few things stand out to me about the Stoffa experience.
First, the materials really are exceptional. My friends think I’m crazy for spending hundreds of dollars on a sweatsuit, but the fabrics feel that good, and I find myself reaching for those pieces constantly, even for workouts.
Second, choosing your own fabrics and having garments made to measure creates a completely different relationship with clothing than simply ordering something online. The process makes you more invested in the finished product.
Third, the designs manage to feel distinctive without ever becoming difficult to wear. The clothes have a quiet elegance that works across a surprising range of situations.
Finally, Stoffa has expanded its offering considerably over the years. At this point, it covers almost every part of my wardrobe. The only things missing are underwear, swimwear, and something truly waterproof.
I used to enjoy exploring a wide range of styles and brands, from Saint Laurent and Margiela to Japanese labels such as Kapital and Visvim. Now, in my late 30s, after nearly a decade of approaching clothing as a serious hobby, I’m very comfortable with where I’ve landed. Stoffa has become the rare brand that feels both inspiring and practical enough to build an entire wardrobe around.
Thanks AM, really interesting to hear about such a deep and current relationship with the clothes
hi AM
i would like to ask what ‘practicewear’ is.
which clothes do you wear for your work?
In case AM doesn’t see your question: Practicewear is what they call their range of sweats. I’ve never handled them so I can’t tell you more, sorry.
It’s their sweatshirt, sweatpants, etc. I wear pretty much everything else for work
I am lucky to live in NY and have easy access to Stoffa. I first fell in love with their trousers and although the average price of their trousers have gone up from 375 to 650 since I first started purchasing I don’t think there is any other brand out there that really does what they do and therefore I can’t really say my money is spent better elsewhere. You can feel the quality of the fabrics and the shape right away and the silhouettes are so versatile that you can switch up between settings – and even when wearing in more relaxed format, the pants always receive compliments for shape and materiality.
All the guys I have had a chance to interact with at the shop are amazing and will do anything to make it a pleasant experience and right fit every time. I do wish the rest of their line came at a lower cost as I don’t want to get into +$1000 knitwear and +$2000 outerwear but I do really appreciate their style despite being a fabric forward brand.
still wear my stoffa traveler jacket in a washed high density cotton canvas 5 years later. The material is unlike anything you would see from either a classic brand or a workwear brand. It’s smooth and soft to the touch so it can be worn with a shirt, but it ages and slightly fades like something from a japanese workwear brand but not stiff.
Great to hear that kind of comment J – how materials age and it what ways they still feel distinct from anything else
Absolutely love Stoffà. Incredible kind people, thoughtful in both design and development and quite unique in their offering and commitment. I still consider my MTM 002 Flight Jacket in chocolate suede, commissioned in 2014 to be my favourite piece of clothing. It’s been through every possible weather imaginable in Sweden and has aged incredibly well given the amount of wear.
Lovely to hear Andreas, particularly from one with experience of a very wide range of things
so why don’t Stoffa do the field jackets and traveller jace. These must be sought after and very flexible clothing
While customers are of course always very important, joners, with a design-led brand it’s often more important where you feel inspired to go or think is relevant to do right now.
Simon Ive been reading a lot of the comments and they echo a lot of what Ive been thinking about Stoffa. One issue is the price which seems to have gone up a lot into another category.
In those early years when they first started visiting London, they were stylish, different in offering a relaxed smart casual alternative with that unique look but for a very good price for MTM garments actually being cheaper than a traditional tailoring company doing MTM. To illustrate when they first started which was I think 2013 a pair of trousers was 225 gbp in cotton. Now youre looking at just under 500 gbp. Today you can buy a cotton polo shirt for 553 gbp, a cotton knitted T shirt for 457 gbp, a linen shirt jacket for 1453 gbp (which seems not bad for a tailored jacket till you realise its more a shirt than a jacket with none of the work that a tailored jacket requires). Is it me who has got much poorer or are some of these prices just absurd? Its a bit like wandering into a store like Loro Piana or Cuccinelli and looking at some of the silly prices you wonder who actually buys the stuff when the store is empty and the sales assistants are just mulling around doing nothing. Then you see one or two oligarchs in the store here and there and realise whats going on.
I suspect they realised that the clientele was a small pool of people who were price insensitive and therefore in luxury clothing terms reoriented their positioning in the market to just sell to those clients at higher prices vs chasing a bigger pool of customers at the relatively low prices they started out with. I get that part of the issue is inflation, in labour, materials, as well as transitioning to a physical store model with online, rather than a travelling tailor / trunk show model. It’s a bit strange though to pay double or more for the same product that you did 7/8 years ago. I like their clothes, and unlike a lot of other commentators actually like the wide blousey sillouette they have as that suits me and my lifestyle. I get if you’re a conventional office worker / professional its a little off piste and quirky so it may not suit so well. In fact I think I influenced Agyesh in the early years to make like that (or at least Id like to think I did!). However even I who am a big fan of their clothes probably wouldn’t pay the prices they are asking for as it just isnt worth it anymore. I mean 450 quid for a T shirt .. come on even us clothing ‘enthusiasts’ know this is just ridiculous.
Hi Rups,
This is obviously a complicated and nuanced topic, but your instincts aren’t right I’m afraid. Stoffa has changed as to what it offers as a company, with more exclusive fabrics and developments and designs, compared to what it was at the start. That might mean it’s not the company for you anymore, but it’s not fair to compare it to either Loro Piana or Cucinelli. The prices are not as high as those, and the quality is a lot better than Cucinelli.
It’s an interesting thing about the power of branding I think – once people have an idea established of what a company, a brand, does, it’s very hard to shift that and evolve it at all.
The T-shirt you are probably referring to is a piece of knitwear by the way. Our Finest Knitwear is not far off that, and it uses a non-exclusive yarn, regular technique, regular colour, and we don’t have a physical shop. That knit in Brioni or Attolini or Loro Piana would be more like £1000.
Point taken Simon as I haven’t followed them that closely since they stopped coming to London on trunk shows. Everything since then has only been seen online. I do remember at the beginning the range of cloth was quite limited and they had a very tight collection of pieces. It was essentially a small capsule which I kind of liked as it all first together very coherently. It was Italian smart casual, but a louche version, since then it also seems to have become slightly more avant-garde. Curiously I was buying before they got into the kind of tailoring side with the shirt jackets. So thats sort of a different orientation as well.
I did love the look especially of the ‘full stoffa’ where you wear the whole lot together. I know you said you prefer the idea of picking certain pieces out. I also think the quality was high both of materials and workmanship. So perhaps I’d buy from them again today but quite judiciously instead of in a more experimental way. I think they are going to be at your showroom soon so perhaps I’ll pay them a visit in person.
Yes I think that’s a good idea and it will probably be worth it, Rups. There are some really special pieces in there that you won’t find anywhere else, but I doubt you will want all of it.
There’s probably a bit of a gap in the market for that kind of brand that Stoffa were at the start – a lot of MTO or MTM, keenly priced, great taste level but costs kept down with just trunk shows and a narrow range of fabrics etc
Hi Simon,
How versatile do you find these basketweave trousers?
https://stoffa.co/collections/trousers/products/taupe-naturally-dyed-basketweave-cotton-wide-single-pleat-trouser
Do they go well with the PS knitted polos (finest polo, dartmoor etc), and maybe with navy and dark brown blazers?
Where would you place them within your trouser capsules?
Thanks.
I’d class them as smart-casual, between a smart chino and a flannel trouser. Great with those knits, yes, though personally I wouldn’t wear them with a tailored blazer