Casual jackets and coats are one area we’ve yet to cover in our Wardrobe Building series. Mostly that’s because it’s such a huge topic – there are dozens of styles, from chores to blousons to field jackets, and the choice depends a lot on personal style.
But, we have tried to categorise those styles here, and then applied them to casual jackets in particular here. So if someone wants a framework to think about their style, they can read those.
And I know readers find it equally useful to hear what I wear and like, as well as something comprehensive. So today I’m going to do that for summer casual jackets – suede, canvas, linen – including the actual pieces I would buy from different brands.
1. A chore jacket
The first thing I would think about for casual, summer jacket would be a chore. That’s because it’s the most practical in terms of the pockets it comes with – a good blazer substitute – and because it’s good for layering things as well.
The layering point is what makes the chore versatile across seasons. Unlike a short jacket such as a blouson or windbreaker, the longer length and straight cut of a chore means you can wear it with just a T-shirt, or put a cardigan or knit underneath and make it more transitional.
As with all these selections, a fairly limited wardrobe means we want a versatile colour – one that can go with lots of things. Duck canvas, dark brown, blue denim or even white can be great.
Recommendations:
- Bryceland’s chore coat, white or denim (£449)
- LEJ Cat Posh Plage Coat, brown or black (£445, restocking in May)
- Full Count denim chore (or better, vintage) (£395)
- LeMaire utility overshirt (£545)
- Buck Mason belted-back chore, white ($298)
2. A windbreaker or Harrington
I’ve always had a weakness for short jackets like this, I think because their shape is so flattering or a slimmer guy – giving us a chest we don’t otherwise have. It’s such a chic one to slip on in the summer, even with shorts (one area the chore falls down).
Cotton is the obvious material for a Harrington, but synthetics and synthetic blends can be really useful for their lightness and weather resistance, and of course linen like the PS version is very chic.
Colour wise the classic navy works very well, but there’s also opportunity to be more adventurous given the history with red or even a yellow Harrington.
Recommendations:
- Basic Harrington: Baracuta G9 in red (£360)
- Ultimate Harrington: Coherence Gianni (€1400)
- Real McCoy’s Swing Jacket, red (£525)
- PS Linen Harrington, navy (£695)
- Bally windbreaker (£750, expensive but a great colour and cut)
3. Suede to dress up
Both of these first two options are pretty casual. It’s good to have one that you could push into a smarter realm if you needed, or just dress up a pair of jeans and a soft loafer/boat shoe. Switching to suede is the best way to do that.
Then it’s mostly a question of length: do you want a bomber, a suede Valstarino style, or do you want something longer, like an overshirt. Both can be cooler or warmer depending on the thickness of the suede, the looseness of the fit, and the lining.
Colour wise we’re looking mostly at navy or earthy tones like brown, beige and tobacco. They bring out the best in suede.
Recommendations:
- Ralph Lauren Purple Label suede track jacket (£3,800)
- PS Suede Overshirt, tobacco or brown (£1,860)
- Connolly stone suede overshirt (£2,900)
4. A piece for the real heat
All these choices necessarily make presumptions about lifestyle and location, but none of the ones so far are for the really hottest places. For some readers that will be an absolute necessity; for me in London, it’s something I find I use on and off in the summer, but a lot more than I used to..
For maximum air circulation a longer style is probably best, and probably in linen – although I include the Jungle Jacket in this category because it’s such a lightweight cotton. Most of the time these will be worn open, again to maximise air flow.
In terms of colour, you’re probably looking at something similar to the suedes above.
Recommendations:
- Vintage jungle jacket, or Buzz Rickson (£230)
- Polo linen combat jacket (£285)
- Buck Mason linen fatigue shirt, mocha ($228)
- PS Linen Overshirt, brown or dark olive (£330)
5. Something more interesting
Let’s face it, this list is a lot easier than one for winter, because a lot of time you don’t even need a jacket in summer. But if we maintain the conceit that you have five for each half of the year, the fifth one here is an opportunity to add something more unusual.
In that category I would put things like fishing/utility vests (very practical, but a very particular style), souvenir jackets (basically a bomber but with some excuse for a lot of colour) and mandarin-collar jackets like forestieres – I have a linen version now of my Bores from Chato Lufsen and it fits very nicely into this summer-jacket category.
Or you might particularly like canvas or denim, in which case it’s an opportunity to add a Type 2 jacket or a Carhartt Detroit jacket (both better vintage than new). Or indeed a leather jacket – often a tricky one to fit into these categories.
Recommendations:
- Bores jacket in linen, £582
- Tailor Toyo souvenir jacket, £695
- Stoffa silk lounge blouson in fig silk, $1,095
- LEJ cinch-back leather blouson, £1,495
- Vintage utility vest (start with the simplest styles, and concentrate on how wide and short each is…) or Drake’s, £595
Things will be a lot harder when we try to squeeze everything into this list for autumn/winter. We haven’t even had to deal with rain this time…..
