Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino
*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes back in*
The reversible Valstarino is back.
This was the most popular product on Permanent Style last Spring/Summer, and I think it's because it solved the key practicality issue men have with suede jackets like the Valstarino.
By using Valstar suede on the outside, but Loro Piana Storm System on the inside, it made the jacket usable in any weather. And with buttons that push through from one side to the other.
The expectation is not that you will wear it with the waterproof layer on the outside all the time. After all, suede does not make the best material for a lining.
But, it means you can wear the jacket without having to worry about what the weather will be during the day. Because if it does rain, you can turn it inside out quickly, and carry on. Personally, at that point I only pull through one or two buttons, to keep it relatively secure.
The advantage of using the high-performance (and expensive) Loro Piana Storm System is that it feels nice, and is breathable. So you’re not sacrificing anything over a normal lining, and you don’t sweat more than with a normal jacket lining.
Other touches include flapped pockets inside, in the Storm System material, which mean you have secure internal pockets, and decent external pockets when the jacket is reversed.
And I requested unpolished two-hole horn buttons, because I prefer them so much over the standard, polished ones Italian brands use.
At this point they’re even a branding element, tying together things like the reversible Valstarino with the other PS outerwear, such as the Bridge Coat and the Raglan.
Last year we did the Valstarino in navy; this year we’re offering it in the more standard dark brown.
The navy makes a good substitute for a navy blazer, and is particularly useful with capsule wardrobes or when travelling.
But the dark brown goes with a greater range of clothing, and is inherently more casual. It looks more at home with a T-shirt and jeans (above), and with other warm colours like tans, greens and beiges. This particular shade is Valstar’s best seller for that reason.
And of course offering a different option means last year’s customers can buy both colours, if they’ve found the jacket particularly useful.
I’ve already illustrated in other articles how versatile the dark-brown suede is. In this piece in 2017 I showed three different outfits - with jeans, flannels and chinos, and oxford, denim and polo shirts (one shown above).
So to illustrate the launch today, I thought I’d shoot three other combinations.
Two of them show how nicely brown can work alongside black, which isn’t always obvious. And how white jeans can add character to an outfit, without appearing as showy as linen or other cream tailoring.
In one outfit (second from top) the Valstarino is worn with a grey sweater (Colhay’s), cream jeans (Levi’s bespoke) and black-suede loafers (Edward Green).
And in the second outfit, below, the shirt is black (needlecord, D’Avino) and the trousers grey (Spring Ram, Ambrosi). Both are more unusual, perhaps more modern-looking than the light-blue oxford and mid-blue jeans I’d usually wear the jacket with.
Another important point is that I’ve changed the size I’m wearing in the pictures.
In last year’s post on the navy, I wore a size 50. Here I’m wearing a 52.
To be honest I could wear either. The smaller is a slightly better fit over a shirt or T-shirt; the larger a little better over knitwear. I’d probably pick based on which I was more likely to wear it with, and whether I’d be happier with it being a touch loose, or a touch close on occasion.
The Valstarino does fit slim, and last year around 40% of customers exchanged their jacket in order to size up. So I’d strongly encourage people to compare the measurements below to a casual jacket they already have. And if in doubt, take the larger size.
We’ve deliberately stocked some size 56 this time (equivalent of a XXL) for that reason.
And we are of course also always available to answer questions - either in the comments below, or on the dedicated Shop email, [email protected].
It probably goes without saying for many readers, but briefly I should outline why I think the Valstarino is such a useful (and popular) style of suede jacket.
The key reason for me, more than its quality and heritage, is that it fits so well into a tailored wardrobe. The suede, the slim pockets and (most importantly) the button-up front make it unusual among blousons in being smart enough to substitute for a sports jacket.
That means it works with the same shirt and flannels you might have worn to the office, but can be swapped for that jacket to meet friends in the pub.
And it also works well for travel. Wear it with that same shirt and trousers to get on the plane, and have a blazer folded up in carry-on.
Of course, the waterproof element here only adds to that versatility. (Waterproof side shown above, and below.)
The measurements of the jacket are listed at the bottom of this post, and on the shop page here.
We do have two navy jackets left from last year - a 46 and a 48 - if anyone wants those, but again do keep the slim sizing in mind.
Other details:
- Dark-brown goat suede
- Lining in navy Loro Piana Storm System, water and windproof
- Unpolished-horn two-hole buttons
- Two flap pockets on the outside and two inside. Cut flush to add no extra bulk
- Side-entry pockets on both sides as well
- Made by Valstar in Italy, shipped from England
- Price £792 plus VAT, so £950 in the EU; customers in other countries are charged local duties/taxes on import (Prices on the shop site are ex-VAT.)
Measurements (all in centimetres):
46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | |
Shoulder width (A) | 43cm | 44.5 | 46 | 47.5 | 49 | 50.5 |
Body length (E) | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 |
Chest width (half) (B) | 51 | 53 | 55 | 57 | 59 | 61 |
Sleeve length (H) | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 |
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt, except oxford/jeans shot, Jamie Ferguson
I really hope you’ll be doing another run for 2021 autumn…
We probably won’t I’m afraid Martin, but we have bought more this year than last. So they shouldn’t sell out too quickly
A lovely jacket more beautiful than I imagined.
I originally put myself on the list for this and unfortunately, like a lot of us, PS & included, a recent change of circumstance now put this out of reach for this year. Gutted but no doubt you will sell out, far better value than the normal version given the added flexibility. Well done on another wonderfully executed piece!
A beautiful piece, of course, but I won’t be buying any for ethical reasons. If only there was a sensible substitute for leather shoes, this is one area where there really isn’t any…
Anyway, a somewhat related question – I don’t believe I’ve ever seen you wearing a denim jacket, why is that? You don’t like them? It’s one of my favourite casual items for spring/summer.
I have worn them Robert, and have a couple – a new Bryceland’s and a vintage one.
See post here on a new piece, showing how I wear it. And here on a vintage piece
Ah, obviously I’ve seen them before! Short memory.
I hope you consider an additional run as well. I still have my job, but due to uncertainty in the economy and the legal industry in which I work, prudence dictates that I cut down on expenses – including my wardrobe budget – to create a larger buffer should I need to look for a new job.
The bad news is that I won’t be able to make any significant purchases this year. The good news is that if all goes well, I will have a larger budget next year for this type of purchase!
I can only speak for myself, but I imagine a lot of people are I the same boat.
Thank you, we certainly will – even if not exactly this, then something very similar.
I’d also like to say I understand all those that are being prudent at the moment – I have many friends in the same boat. And I deeply appreciate all those that support us through these products wherever they feel they can.
Dear Simon. What a lovely colour!
Your collection is expanding and all the pieces are lovely.
One question though, how are the buttons attached? I can imagine that passing the buttons back and forth must wear them a lot. Are they attached differently than a normal Valstarino?
Thank you.
They are on a slightly tougher, longer shank that helps them go back and through the buttonhole easily. Wearing out won’t be an issue – at least for many years.
I’ve recently had to sell on my Valstar Suede jacket, due to the slimness I had to size up to a 54 and being a shorter fellow that works out the sleeves and length was just not right on my body.
Quite unfortunate as I got so much use out of it!
Great Style! Love your fit. Just subscribed your blog! ??
Hi,
Would you say the ribbing on the cuff is without being said tight enough but most importantly remains reasonably tight over time? As I would like to size up but afraid the the sleeve length would be a tad long already and having the cuff tight would make up for that.
Thank you!
Yes I’d say it is tight enough to stay in place, and stays like that over time. I’ve had a Valstarino for six years and the ribbing has never shown any signs of loosening
Hi Simon, thanks for making up such a lovely jacket. I have got a question on sizing – I usually wear size 3 (small) in Private White jackets and even for the PS Bridge Coat which you suggested sizing up, I am still in size 3. Strangely, I wear medium for the Friday polo. Which size would you suggest me for this suede jacket?
Thank you.
I’d take a medium Adam, a 40
Did you mean 50? Thanks Simon
Sorry, yes. English 40, European 50
Very nice looking jacket – I like the deep shade of brown. I actually find brown more useful for travel. If I’m going to make a trip to a city (eg, Paris), I’m never going to go without a navy blazer (or perhaps a navy suit as an alternative) – eg, to wear For dinner at a nice restaurants, concerts, etc. So if I’m trying to travel light, traveling with a navy blazer and brown suede jacket is more versatile than traveling with a navy blazer and a navy suede jacket.
Lovely piece – I am quite fond of Valstars version but never pulled the trigger, mainly due to to the arm length (T-rex arms). Whats your view on shortening the sleeves with ribbings, is it possible? Could it even be done nicely?
Just want to echo the sizing, I am a standard 46 but 46 does not work for me at all and I am a slim guy.
It could be done, but only by a leather specialist. I would only do it if you know someone like that (like Cromford in London) and they’ve done similar work before
First, you have a minor typo misspelling “weather” in the third paragraph.
Second, I’d like some advice on colour. I hesitated buying the navy Valstarino last year because I wasn’t sure if I wanted a navy one, or if I wanted a dark brown suede jacket. I happen to be a size 46/48, so now I very much have that choice.
The reasons navy appeals is that
– I generally dress smarter (creased trousers, collared shirts or polo shirts)
– May work better with my trousers (greys including dark greys, olives, browns, rarely navy, never blue denim)
– Would wear with black or mid- to dark-brown shoes including brown suede (you discourage matching suedes in shoes and jacket)
– Brown horn on navy suede is lovely
What makes me lean to brow suede is
– Perhaps marginally more appealing colour of suede to me
– Have more navy outerwear than brown outerwear, so it would help diversify my colours a little
– Your advice that it is more versatile.
Your perspectives would be very much appreciated!
Thank you on the typo, I’ll fix that now.
I think on balance, navy might be best for you in that case. It wouldn’t be the case for most people, but most people wear jeans quite a bit, often navy chinos, and a nice amount of beige. For what you describe, navy might be marginally more useful. But I also think you would get good wear and enjoyment out of both.
By the way, we have a 46 coming back from a size exchange, so both 46 and 48 are available. But it sounds like you’d be a 48 anyway.
Love this jacket, Simon. Have wanted a Valstarino for some time and was hoping you’d do the reversible in dark brown.
My only question is: is it a real no-no to wear brown suede shoes with a jacket of this colour? I could imagine it would go with almost literally every shirt, piece of knitwear and pair of trousers I own but my favourite and most useful pair of shoes is probably my brown (not snuff) Alden chukkas. Will people laugh at me on the street…?
No.
At least, I wore brown-suede shoes with the outfit of black shirt and grey trousers you can see here, and I thought it looked good.
And no one laughed at me. But then again, we were shooting in Mayfair last week, and there was pretty much no one around.
You should read Wikpedia’s entry on the spotlight effect. Indeed, I think many people who spend time on this site should.
This is beautiful. Your articles on the Valstarino (including the one introducing the PS reversible version) convinced me to grab one in dark Brown. I wish I’d waited for this year’s iteration!
Great jacket, extremely beautiful color, but wouldn’t the sleeves look better on you if they were a little bit shorter?
On this size, yes perhaps, but it’s a fairly small point on sizing, given the cuffs stop them actually running onto the hand. It’s also a little bit a question of taste – if you like a slightly roomier fit, often you like an arm with enough excess to not pull at all when you reach for things, as well
Just finished reading the article but then I realised size 46 is not available. Will it be restocked again?
Are you sure you’re a 46 Vincent? We deliberately didn’t do a 46 this time because last time every single person that bought a 46, exchanged for a 48. They are a little small and slim.
Thanks Simon. Unfortunately I am. I own several Baracuta G9 in 36 (one in light brown suede) and I found their measurements quite close to your 46 (according to your chart). Hope you’ll have 46 again next season then…
Ah, OK. Well, there are free returns if you ever want to try it out
Hi Simon,
Valstars don’t really work for me fit wise having tried them on at Drakes so I won’t be buying one of these.
However, it strikes me that you have a number of suede jackets, particularly bombers in various styles and colours. I was wondering whether you’d consider doing a write up on them as a collective article with their pros and cons?
I do appreciate that most of the information will be somewhere on your site.
Thanks
J
Sure J, nice idea. I’ll plan a comparison piece.
I’d love to read a comparison as well. Have you ever heard / tried Atacama ? They do a similar jacket to the Valstarino, MTO, MTM or Bespoke with silk or cachemire lining, for a slightly lower price. Would be curious to have your views on it.
I haven’t tried them no, thanks Mael
Could you elaborate on how the internal / external pockets work? With reversible jackets this always seems to be an issue.
I have a reversible navy coat (cashmere on one side, quilted padding on the other) that’s very nice except on this one front. And although this might sound superfluous, having good (and easily accessible) interior pockets is Important, from a practical perspective.
Good point.
The pockets on the inside are copies of those on the outside, just without the buttons or bellows. This means they look perfectly natural on the outside as well, and are quite thin and flush, meaning there is minimal extra bulk.
Of course, this means there aren’t inbreast pockets on the inside, but I find those are most necessary when you don’t have external hip pockets, as here. With a Valstarino, I use the external pockets for my phone, wallet etc. Indeed, the unlined version of this jacket, which is the most popular, only has one small hip pocket on the inside
This is a lovely jacket. How would you compare the Valstarino to its equivalent Bomber jackets from Alfonso Rifugio fit and finish wise? And on another note, breathable fabrics like Gore Tex for instance need some serious difference in outside temperature to body temperature for the breathing properties to work properly. Otherwise people will sweat to death. Is that Loro Piana fabric really that different that I won‘t get wet from the inside in moderate weather conditions?
Thanks.
It’s similar to Rifugio in terms of suede, but not in handwork – which why the Rifugio is more expensive.
Never got the appeal of type A jackets. Why would you want a jacket that makes the midsection more prominent? Is it the same idea as trouser pleats?
It’s about practicality rather than aesthetics, yes. A bigger mid-section anchored by ribbing generally making movement easier
Could you add a photo of what the jacket looks like when reversed – so that you see the entire jacket? Right now, you only have 2 pictures of the jacket in reverse – one focuses on the neck area, and the other is a close-up of the buttons.
Good point. I’ve added one now – it’s at the bottom, as well as a full length of the black-shirt outfit for those that were asking about that
Nice! I’d find this more wearable than your bespoke tailored items as I don’t attend many ‘occasions’ and don’t work in a professional office! Much as I would love to wear tailoring all the time.
Lovely and very useful piece indeed. Slightly different question – are you planning to do a run of the Bridge coat for winter? Thanks
Hey
Yes we will – there’s a waiting list at [email protected] if you want to get on that
Sorry to continue the off-topic, but there is no need to be put on the waiting list if I need to visit Private White in person to order the MTM Bridge Coat, right? I’d have done it some time ago, but with the international travel restrictions I wasn’t able to.
Yes that’s right – MTM is through them only
Beautiful jacket, but I am concerned about the length. Obviously individuals’ proportions vary, but how do you find this jacket fits taller people? I am 1.91m and a 68cm body length for the 56 seems like it might be a little short, especially as compared to some of my other jackets. Thoughts? Thanks.
I think it depends a little how high you wear your trousers Craig. A mid or high rise should be OK, but low rise might struggle a little
Hi Simon,
What shoes were you wearing with the black needlecord D’avino shirt and grey trouser outfit?
I love the mix of brown and black, but find myself at odds with what shoes to wear with such an outfit.
Also, are there any 56 available? I’ve been looking since this morning (in the US) and it hasn’t been available.
Keep up the items in the shop!
I was wearing brown-suede loafers. I’d always be cautious of wearing brown suede with brown suede, but it worked well.
The 56s have gone, but one person did take the 54 and 56, is trying them, and returning one quickly. So email [email protected] to be on the waiting list in case the 56 comes back
I assume your sizing is European.
UK size 40. European 50
Exactly
This is a lovely style. But do you think it could be carried off by someone carrying a bit too much excess weight around the middle?
It depends how much, but yes I think so. If anything, the blouson shape helps with that. A straighter jacket, without such volume in the body, would be harder to wear – like the shape of a Type 2 denim jacket
“It depends how much …..”
Sadly a bit too much, with the lockdown diet not helping ……
Simon,
I am willing to give you my firstborn and my left testicle if you do a reversible valstar in grey.
R/
A hopeful unic
I’m not sure I have much use for either I’m afraid…
Never hurts to have spares…
Simon,
Nice jacket…..Question : why buttons, and not a zipper?
It’s the style of the Valstarino, the traditional and original style.
And I like that (as mentioned in the article) because it makes it smarter, better with tailored trousers etc. Yet no worse with jeans really
Just received my size 52. I typically wear between a 38-40 in U.S. suit/jackets sizes. I also typically wear size 50 in Italian sweaters. With some help from Simon I determined to size up and buy a 52 and am very glad I did. If you’re on the fence as some sizes come back in stock from returns I would highly recommend sizing up. Thanks for creating such a unique jacket Simon! You took a great product and made it even better. As an American I am going to have to watch the Seinfeld episode “The Jacket” to celebrate the arrival.
I’m so pleased Michael, thank you. And really pleased it’s worked out for you in terms of sizing. I hope it gives you many years of pleasure
Hi Simon,
I m very pleased with this Valstarino in size 50 EU. If any helpfull for anyone considering size. I m size 46 EU RTW jackets/suits (Corneliani, Isaia, Caruso, Cesare Attolini). Just bought a blue Valstarino 48 EU in March in linen wool silk LP rainsystem blend which is perfect fit for me over a polo (Ralph Lauren size S) or thin cashmere rollneck (Italian S) . I m 180 cm with a jeans (501) W30/L32.
Beautiful product Simon.
Thank you, and thanks for feeding back with your sizing experiences
If one already has the sandal suede version, would you say the dark brown suede is redundant, or is it different enough to justify having both? Or would you recommend something else to supplement the sandal?
I’d say a navy would be a better partner probably
I bought a size 46, and mostly fits pretty well. However, it feels a little short, and the side pockets are awkwardly high and so difficult to use.
Sizing up out increase the length f the jacket by 1 cm. Do you think that would make much difference?
On the length, I think it’s mostly a question of your trouser rise. If the jacket looks fine with the trousers, not riding up above them, then I wouldn’t worry.
And the pockets on the Valstarino are not the easiest to use anyway, as they’re not on an angle. I don’t usually use mine much. So again there, personally, I wouldn’t worry about that aspect.
Thanks for your advice. Based on that it’s probably fine–it’s probably just a shorter style than I was expecting. It does have the benefit that the ribbing at the bottom sits fairly high up, so it doesn’t ride up and the jacket doesn’t blouse much at the waist. Perhaps that was the goal.
Oh good. Yes, that sounds like it works well then
As the Italians are right on this aspect ;-)) ; it’s their jacket (see the catalog), I would say, size/fit sounds correct to me and wouldn’t worry either:
http://www.valstar.it/it/content/20-catalog
Simon,
This post is tempting me to buy another Valstarino, but I already have one. The problem is that it is lined with cashmere and given the climates I generally live and work in, I rarely get to wear it. Can you offer any thoughts on having the lining removed? Is this at all feasible? Many thanks.
It probably isn’t feasible, TK. Easier if you replace the lining with something, but still not easy. Also expensive
Hi Simon,
Congratulations on the success of this collaboration! I’m thinking of getting a new suede jacket. I have dark brown, light (tan) brown, and a sort of rust or brick color. I’m torn between navy and dark olive. I wear suede mostly casually, but sometimes with flannels or tailored cotton trousers. Your input would be much appreciated!
If you have those already, I think navy would be the sensible colour to get next. It will offer a different look where the olive won’t so much
Hi Simon,
I’m awaiting my reversible Valstarino and I wondered if the suede side should be sprayed in the way you recommend on your article about taking care of suede jackets? Or does it not needed because of the other side? Or perhaps just spray it with the care spray and not the waterproofing one?
Thanks
It depends. If you’re always going to reverse the jacket when it rains, then you don’t need any protection.
If you might not sometimes, then protect it in the same way as any other suede jacket.
Makes sense Simon.
And besides protection, when new is a conditioning spray like Saphir Renovateur advisable? (You have mentioned that at least for shoes, the suede or leather can be dry if it’s been in storage at the factory or shop for a while)
No, I wouldn’t think so
Are the loafers ‘Hamstead’? how do you like them compared to the Belgravia’s?
No, they’s still the Belgravia
Hi Simon,
Do you think the moleskin bomber from Private White could be a substitute for the Valstarino jacket?
Thanks!
Yes. I prefer suede, but the colour and style are a decent substitute
Hi Simon, just wondering if you think you will bring this brown version back next year?
Also, do you think this Drake’s bomber would be a good substitute for a Valstarino: https://www.drakes.com/clothing/coats-and-jackets/brown-suede-a-1-flight-jacket
Or do you know of anyone else that produces a similar jacket that would be a level up compared to the basic Valstarino?
Many thanks for your help.
We should be, yes.
That Drake’s one is nice, though not sure it’s necessarily a step up on the Valstar. For that perhaps look at Rifugio perhaps
Hi Simon,
Why people think there is a faux pas of wearing brown suede jacket with brown suede shoe? I think your belgravia looks fine with the suede jacket. Would a calf shoe looks better? Thanks for answering.
I think a calf shoe would look too smart, personally.
There is a fear of wearing too much of the same colour and texture.
Hi Simon, hope you’re well.
Will there be a re-stock of the Valstarinos (either in navy or brown) at any point this year? Hoping things have changed since you last indicated there probably won’t be another run of those when this article was published.
I’ve already got the Bridge Coat and three of the PS oxford shirts and this looks like another extremely versatile must-have piece. I’m in a dilemma between waiting for the Valstarino or snagging the significantly cheaper (albeit less functional) Private White moleskin bomber. Would be great to hear your thoughts.
Hi Teo,
Yes, we are planning now to bring it out again – I’m just waiting for the sample, which should be here soon. If you email [email protected], you can get on the waiting list. I do (personally) think it’s worth waiting.
S
Thanks a lot, Simon.
Is there any ETA you could share? I suppose it would be around June again?
Also, are you planning to release the navy version or it would be brown again? Thinking navy would fit really well in my wardrobe at the moment but can equally see the case for going for brown.
We don’t have an ETA yet, sorry, but I’d hope it would be before June. Not sure on colour choice either yet
If around June, I’m really hoping on dark brown!
Noted! Thanks for the input, much appreciated
I am myself hoping for a navy version, although both would be really useful. An earlier indication on colour would be very useful though.
Simon, are there any cases where a navy version would be appropriate and brown wouldn’t be, and vice versa?
Not really. It’s more that the navy would be a tiny bit smarter, and go with perhaps some other colder pieces. A bit like dark brown v navy jackets basically
Thanks Simon, that makes sense. Is there any scope for doing a run of both colours?
I’m afraid not, no. The minimums don’t make it economical
Olive would be a good colour for a casual jacket like this.
Thanks Mark, noted. I find dark olive to be a great colour, though perhaps imperceptibly less versatile than brown or navy. It does have to be dark too I find.
Here’s another vote for a dark olive – there you would not only be filling the gap in the market for an all weather suede blouson, but also the one for this color.
I’ll bang the drum one last time with another vote for a dark, cool shade of Olive (or another cold tone, Navy would be lovely again).
My best,
Ck
Hi again, Simon
Apologies – another quick question. Having worn both, if you had to choose one size again, would you go for the 50 or the 52?
Trying to figure out which one is best for me given my fairly large chest and back. Put down my name on the waiting list for the 52, however afraid that the sleeves might be a touch too long for me (1.79m height).
Great to hear your thoughts, as always.
Best,
Teo
I’m go for the 52 I think. I hope that helps.
If you want to be on the waiting list, please email [email protected]. Thanks
Hi Simon,
If you haven’t settled on a colour yet, might I suggest a taupe/mushroom colour? I believe that Valstarino have offered something like this in the past, which looked really good. It would be a change from the ubiquitous brown/polo shades. Just a thought!
Richard
Thanks Richard. I actually have a taupe/mushroom one – see post here.
It is really nice, but I tend towards the more versatile colours as I know guys usually want just one jacket like this that will go with the most things.
I am actually looking at the trunk “greige” one at the moment. Similar to the mushroom one you have which I love. Considering a am a jeans and Oxford h inform wearer, even at work these days do you still find useful?
Yes I think so
Simon, any chance of these coming back?
Yes, they will be in a couple of months. Add yourself to the waiting list by emailing [email protected]
and I really hope this won’t be last run… in spring it wouldn’t be responsible for me to get one..
Simon,
The outfit with the black suede Belgravia’s, cream levis’, grey Colhay’s and of course the Valstarino. I have an observation or rather something I’ve discovered from my own experimentation.
To me, this outfit is clean, contemporary, timeless dressing at it’s best. Which prompts me to ask this question. Say you were to swap the jacket and shoes round regards colour, black suede Valstarino, brown suede Belgravia’s?
To me, this isn’t as effective. I have tried to figure out why, I’m sure it is the fact that because the black is the darker (is any possible scenario (even if only slightly in any case) it throws the balance off. It’s almost as if the black shoes ‘solidify’ the outfit, where as with brown shoes black jacket, it just seems to be ever so slightly off balance. And this goes for any black shoe brown jacket vs brown shoe black jacket combination I’ve ever seen or experimented with. The former always looks clean, and modern. The latter I don’t know if I’ve ever seen work as well. I raise this because when done correctly, it’s such a clean and subtle colour combination as you are well aware.
Would love to know your thoughts,
Ck
I can certainly see your point, Chris. I think that would work less well just because there were so much more of the black, and that would mean the two dominant colours were black and white, which would be very high contrast and not as subtle.
Over complication is my specialty, but you’re spot on. Very nicely simplified Simon, that’s exactly it. With the black shoes, it comes across as just an accent/compliment around the edges. Same story with your back cord shirt/ grey trousers outfit. I think you’ve mentioned before, but this seems to be where black really comes into its own.
Ck
Great article Simon! I really love the style of that jacket.
Question regarding fit. I normally wear a 38 to 40 suit depending on the cut. However, I’m a bit cautious taking a comfortable fit (vs a fitted one) because I’m worried it will stretch further and just be too big. A fitted one will be fine but the flip side is if pick up weight or gain size it will pinch across the chest/stomach area which ends up looking too tight.
Would this suede jacket stretch over time? Also, considering the style of the jacket is a bomber, would a slightly more relaxed fit would be more appropriate than a fitted one?
Whereas typically a racer leather jacket would be fine if its completely fitted as they tend to stretch over time.
Thanks, looking forward to your response
Hey JB,
No this won’t really stretch, and no a more relaxed fit isn’t really needed here. It’s only slightly fitted, so it doesn’t look too different to the original style
Thanks, appreciate the response.
Do you have a 42 chest available pls?
We don’t I’m afraid Andy, but we are getting more in a month or so. The best thing to do is to email the support team and ask to be put on the waiting list for one – [email protected]. That way you will get an alert and first access
Hi Simon,
I am really enjoying my brown Valstarino but I find the colour a little bit constraining given it can’t be readily paired up with brown suede shoes (being a wardrobe staple of their own).
I know it’s probably too early but do you envisage ever doing another run of the navy suede version? I know they’re available from other retailers but the weather resistance that the reversibility brings is something really valuable – enough for me to hold off for another year or so.
Best,
Teo
Hi Teo,
No current plans, no, but I do wear mine with brown-suede shoes as well. It’s obviously a little bit more of a look, but I don’t think it’s that unusual or showy really. As in the bottom image of the post above
Simon,
What are your thoughts on a grey suede jacket?
A lovely piece, and something I considered from Stoffa, for example. But it is an unusual colour for such a jacket, and not as versatile if you want to wear it smartly, as you’ll probably wear grey trousers sometimes.
It’s funny you say that, because I was considering the same thing. I have the suede flight jacket from stoffa in navy, but I feel like the grey would be a nice addition?
Moreover, I have always wanted to recreate the monochromatic look of Jude Law’s character in the movie Vox Lux.
Grey would certainly be nice, just a little less versatile – so I think it depends on what else you have in your wardrobe.
My wardrobe is mostly casual (aiming for casual chic). Stoffa has two version of the grey suede, a dark suede (anthracite) and a mid grey. Which one do you think is easier to wear?
I’d think the mid-grey, but I don’t have too much confidence in that, having not owned and tried a grey suede jacket like that
Hi Simon
Will you be re-stocking this valstarino soon?
Hi Mac,
I’m afraid not, no. We got our small restock two weeks ago, but they all went to the waiting list.
It’s worth being added to it for any future returns or exchanges though.
Hi Simon,
I am looking to purchase this particular jacket (your new style without patch pockets) and was in touch with PS Support. I will definitely take their advice and measure a garment, but I don’t have a piece that is close to the Valstrino. The closest I have is a Herno blue bomber with the same button up and pocket arrangement to the original Valstrino.
At any rate, perhaps you can advise a bit further. At the risk or sharing personal information, here I go: I am 6′ tall and weigh 185lbs. Chest 41″, Waist 36″, seat 41″ (actual measurements). I typically take a size 52 and if a jacket, it is taken in at the body to give it more shape.
I’m conflicted between size 52 or 54. Any thoughts or advice on this?
That sounds fine in terms of measurements Bruno – you just want a vaguely similar style of jacket, and not because you want exactly the same measures, but just because it gives you some context to the measurements.
On the body measurements you’ve given, I’d certainly say you were a 52 or a 54. But I would see how the Herno bomber compares.
Hi Simon,
May I just double-check that you are not doing future runs of this jacket ? I’m about to pull the trigger on a brown lined Valstarino, but will wait if you stock later in 2022.
Best wishes.
We are planning a replacement Lewis, and I’m hoping it will be ready for Autumn this year. But realistically I can’t guarantee that as we’re still sampling. Sorry
Simon,
Bonus question if I may – can you please comment on the usefulness of dark brown suede vs tobacco ? I love tobacco suede but am thinking dark brown may just be the most versatile.
And I’d really plan to wear the jacket to death.
Thanks.
You’re right, dark brown will be much more versatile
Hi Simon,
In light of the seemingly inexorable trend towards wider and more slouchy fashion would you still recommend valstarinos, or do you think they have finally become somewhat obsolete? If you do still wear them, how do you style them these days?
I definitely would, yes. In fact I think they can fit with a slouchy look too – just often a size larger than you might normally wear. There’s quite a lot of room in the body, it’s not exactly that fitted.
Was it the body you were concerned about?
Belated thanks Simon! I did up getting one in dark olive, and sizing up worked out nicely, I had just seen photos of people wearing them quite tight.
As a side note I can recommend Valstar’s store to any other readers passing through Milan. It was quite lovely seeing all the colors and designs in person, and talking to the friendly staff too. I would not have ended up with olive if I had been shopping online.
Originally, I had the idea that I could use it as a casual jacket substitute, but it very much reads like outerwear. I left it on indoors once and was asked if I was cold xd. Do you think it is possible to wear it in a way that looks natural indoors (social rather than professional situations)? Maybe unbuttoned with just a t-shirt?
In either case it is a lovely piece of clothing. I am slightly worried it will end up being a gateway drug to suede.
Yes that’s definitely a risk!
I don’t think so indoors, no
Hi Simon, between lined and unlined suede jackets, which do you find more useful?
Many thanks,
Jack
Probably lined. I don’t notice much of a difference in terms of heat
Hi Simon, I’m looking to buy a Valstarino online but need advice on sizing. I have a number of items from your shop.
So when it comes to the PS overshirts/shirts/polos, I’m a size Small (except the tapered tee where I sized up)… and a Medium in the PS shorts… Should I get a size 46, 48, or even 50?
Thank you!
I think first check whether it’s their classic or slim cut. If it’s slim, the important thing is how slim you are – shoulders to waist – rather than anything else.
Also in case it’s relevant, we will have our own version of this reversible Valstar coming out this Autumn again.
Hi Simon, will there be any changes compared to last year’s version?
Best,
Teo
Yes. We are making it with Private White now (Valstar are fine with it) and the cut and style are a little different – more similar to our linen Harrington
Oh, this sounds exciting! I hope you don’t mind my asking about an approximate release date/month and if there would be a navy suede version rather than just the brown?
No that’s fine, it will be in our seasonal email to readers soon anyway. It’s just brown, and should be late September hopefully
Hi Simon, haha I was not even aware they had different cuts, I assumed they were all slim fit ?…
I usually wear tops that are a size 46 (35-36 inch chest, 17 inch shoulder) but bottoms tend to be 48 (31-32 inch waist)… would that narrow down the sizing?
Thanks!
It does a little, though really what you want is a measurement for your upper body waist, not your trouser waist (unless you wear high-waisted trousers).
Do you have another short jacket you can measure and compare the measurements to those of a Valstar? That’s always the easiest way to tell
Hi Simon, sorry, just to clarify, the Valstarino i’m interested in is the dark brown suede model that has a normal lining, similar to the model you released… Do they come in different fits? Thanks!
Yes, last time I checked they came in classic and slim fits, though the majority sold in Europe are the slim fit I think. Ours was
Hi Simon, based on the measurements of a jacket most similar to a Valstar, it seems like 48 in slim fit is the closest match. Thanks for your patience! Now I just need to make sure I’m getting the right one haha
No problem, happy to help
Is the regular fit just wider in the chest and waist? Any other significant difference? Thank you!
Yes, mostly the waist – a straighter cut
Hi Simon, thanks again for the tips and knowledge as always. I’m trying to narrow down a bomber/blouson purchase.
Based on my wardrobe, I’d say a dark brown is most versatile, and apart from the Valstar in brown suede, the moleskin bomber in brown from PWVC seems like a good choice (and it’s on sale too). What are your thoughts on either jacket in terms of styling and formality?
To be honest Marcus I’m not much of a fan of moleskin for a jacket like this – it doesn’t tend to age that well or feel that nice, kind of a poor man’s suede to my feeling. I’d rather have wool or normal cotton if suede weren’t an option.
A brown suede blouson I’d think would be very versatile, and as mentioned we’re bringing out our update to this one soon
Hi Simon,
I found this vintage Valstar Coat in a thrift shop
in Germany. Do you think it is still wearable and
if yes what would you suggest? How could it be combined?
I am not sure but I think it is from the 80s, the label says
“cosmopolitan vita, Made in Italy by Valstar”.
Best Regards
Deniz
Looks really interesting Deniz. Hard to tell remotely, but could be cool as top coat. The band collar is the only thing that makes me a bit unsure
What would a U.S. size large translate to? My torso and arms are pretty long so I sometimes use a large tall, but for most knits a large is fine. Thanks.
Could I suggest comparing the measurements to something you already own Keith? That’s by far the easiest way to tell. Although if you’re talking about the jacket here, that isn’t available any more – a new version from a different maker is coming in a few weeks
Hi Simon, could you please share an estimate for when will the new reversible suede jacket launch? Thanks!
Hi Juan,
Hopefully about three weeks, maybe a week more
HI Simon will these be restocking in late 2022 or early 2023?
Early 2023 now I’m afraid
Hi Simon
Will you bring any back this year 2023? I really like this one.
Thanks HZ
Yes, it’s actually launching in a couple of weeks
Fantastic, this is great timing.
Is there gonna be brown colour this time? Will you consider a green colour way in the future ?
Yes, dark brown, very similar to this. I wasn’t thinking green in the future, but certainly good to have the vote
Hi Simon, as somwone with very sloping shoulders and slightly forward angles shoulders, is the Valstar a good choice for me? It seems l like they use a very soft suede and hence I am thinking it may look too ‘slouchy’ like a cardigan almost- especially if sometimes worn unbuttoned (I understand that a lot of it is down to personal preference, but I don’t have any easy means to try out a Valstar anytime soon, but can certainly order online. You seem to have quite slopey shoulders yourself so your opinion would be doubly welcome, both for this reason and your general sartorial sense which I admire)
Thank you Sam.
I’m not sure it will make much difference what Valstar use to to be honest. The shape of the classic bomber is the main thing, the proportions and whether they work for you. Having a set-in shoulder rather than raglan one will help, but the material I wouldn’t say is really a factor
40 inch chest, what would be the ideal size? Medium
Hi Varun
I’m afraid this model is no longer sold. Have a look at our updated jacket here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/02/introducing-the-new-reversible-suede-bomber.html
Our best advice is to measure a jacket you currently have and compare against the sizing chart.
If you still have questions after that please do come back to us.