Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

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*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes back in*

 

The reversible Valstarino is back

This was the most popular product on Permanent Style last Spring/Summer, and I think it's because it solved the key practicality issue men have with suede jackets like the Valstarino.

By using Valstar suede on the outside, but Loro Piana Storm System on the inside, it made the jacket usable in any weather. And with buttons that push through from one side to the other. 

The expectation is not that you will wear it with the waterproof layer on the outside all the time. After all, suede does not make the best material for a lining. 

But, it means you can wear the jacket without having to worry about what the weather will be during the day. Because if it does rain, you can turn it inside out quickly, and carry on. Personally, at that point I only pull through one or two buttons, to keep it relatively secure. 

The advantage of using the high-performance (and expensive) Loro Piana Storm System is that it feels nice, and is breathable. So you’re not sacrificing anything over a normal lining, and you don’t sweat more than with a normal jacket lining. 

Other touches include flapped pockets inside, in the Storm System material, which mean you have secure internal pockets, and decent external pockets when the jacket is reversed. 

And I requested unpolished two-hole horn buttons, because I prefer them so much over the standard, polished ones Italian brands use.

At this point they’re even a branding element, tying together things like the reversible Valstarino with the other PS outerwear, such as the Bridge Coat and the Raglan

Last year we did the Valstarino in navy; this year we’re offering it in the more standard dark brown. 

The navy makes a good substitute for a navy blazer, and is particularly useful with capsule wardrobes or when travelling. 

But the dark brown goes with a greater range of clothing, and is inherently more casual. It looks more at home with a T-shirt and jeans (above), and with other warm colours like tans, greens and beiges. This particular shade is Valstar’s best seller for that reason. 

And of course offering a different option means last year’s customers can buy both colours, if they’ve found the jacket particularly useful. 

I’ve already illustrated in other articles how versatile the dark-brown suede is. In this piece in 2017 I showed three different outfits - with jeans, flannels and chinos, and oxford, denim and polo shirts (one shown above). 

So to illustrate the launch today, I thought I’d shoot three other combinations. 

Two of them show how nicely brown can work alongside black, which isn’t always obvious. And how white jeans can add character to an outfit, without appearing as showy as linen or other cream tailoring. 

In one outfit (second from top) the Valstarino is worn with a grey sweater (Colhay’s), cream jeans (Levi’s bespoke) and black-suede loafers (Edward Green). 

And in the second outfit, below, the shirt is black (needlecord, D’Avino) and the trousers grey (Spring Ram, Ambrosi). Both are more unusual, perhaps more modern-looking than the light-blue oxford and mid-blue jeans I’d usually wear the jacket with. 

 

Another important point is that I’ve changed the size I’m wearing in the pictures. 

In last year’s post on the navy, I wore a size 50. Here I’m wearing a 52. 

To be honest I could wear either. The smaller is a slightly better fit over a shirt or T-shirt; the larger a little better over knitwear. I’d probably pick based on which I was more likely to wear it with, and whether I’d be happier with it being a touch loose, or a touch close on occasion. 

The Valstarino does fit slim, and last year around 40% of customers exchanged their jacket in order to size up. So I’d strongly encourage people to compare the measurements below to a casual jacket they already have. And if in doubt, take the larger size. 

We’ve deliberately stocked some size 56 this time (equivalent of a XXL) for that reason.

And we are of course also always available to answer questions - either in the comments below, or on the dedicated Shop email, [email protected]

It probably goes without saying for many readers, but briefly I should outline why I think the Valstarino is such a useful (and popular) style of suede jacket. 

The key reason for me, more than its quality and heritage, is that it fits so well into a tailored wardrobe. The suede, the slim pockets and (most importantly) the button-up front make it unusual among blousons in being smart enough to substitute for a sports jacket.

That means it works with the same shirt and flannels you might have worn to the office, but can be swapped for that jacket to meet friends in the pub.

And it also works well for travel. Wear it with that same shirt and trousers to get on the plane, and have a blazer folded up in carry-on.

Of course, the waterproof element here only adds to that versatility. (Waterproof side shown above, and below.)

The measurements of the jacket are listed at the bottom of this post, and on the shop page here. 

We do have two navy jackets left from last year - a 46 and a 48 - if anyone wants those, but again do keep the slim sizing in mind. 

Other details:

  • Dark-brown goat suede
  • Lining in navy Loro Piana Storm System, water and windproof
  • Unpolished-horn two-hole buttons
  • Two flap pockets on the outside and two inside. Cut flush to add no extra bulk
  • Side-entry pockets on both sides as well
  • Made by Valstar in Italy, shipped from England
  • Price £792 plus VAT, so £950 in the EU; customers in other countries are charged local duties/taxes on import (Prices on the shop site are ex-VAT.)

Measurements (all in centimetres):

  46 48 50 52 54 56
Shoulder width (A) 43cm 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5
Body length (E) 63 64 65 66 67 68
Chest width (half) (B) 51 53 55 57 59 61
Sleeve length (H) 65 66 67 68 69 70

Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt, except oxford/jeans shot, Jamie Ferguson

 

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Martins

I really hope you’ll be doing another run for 2021 autumn…

Chris

A lovely jacket more beautiful than I imagined.

I originally put myself on the list for this and unfortunately, like a lot of us, PS & included, a recent change of circumstance now put this out of reach for this year. Gutted but no doubt you will sell out, far better value than the normal version given the added flexibility. Well done on another wonderfully executed piece!

Robert M

A beautiful piece, of course, but I won’t be buying any for ethical reasons. If only there was a sensible substitute for leather shoes, this is one area where there really isn’t any…

Anyway, a somewhat related question – I don’t believe I’ve ever seen you wearing a denim jacket, why is that? You don’t like them? It’s one of my favourite casual items for spring/summer.

Robert M

Ah, obviously I’ve seen them before! Short memory.

Anonymous

I hope you consider an additional run as well. I still have my job, but due to uncertainty in the economy and the legal industry in which I work, prudence dictates that I cut down on expenses – including my wardrobe budget – to create a larger buffer should I need to look for a new job.

The bad news is that I won’t be able to make any significant purchases this year. The good news is that if all goes well, I will have a larger budget next year for this type of purchase!

I can only speak for myself, but I imagine a lot of people are I the same boat.

P.F.

Dear Simon. What a lovely colour!
Your collection is expanding and all the pieces are lovely.
One question though, how are the buttons attached? I can imagine that passing the buttons back and forth must wear them a lot. Are they attached differently than a normal Valstarino?

Ricky Takhar

I’ve recently had to sell on my Valstar Suede jacket, due to the slimness I had to size up to a 54 and being a shorter fellow that works out the sleeves and length was just not right on my body.

Quite unfortunate as I got so much use out of it!

Jonas Kreiner

Great Style! Love your fit. Just subscribed your blog! 🙏🏼

O

Hi,

Would you say the ribbing on the cuff is without being said tight enough but most importantly remains reasonably tight over time? As I would like to size up but afraid the the sleeve length would be a tad long already and having the cuff tight would make up for that.

Thank you!

Adam

Hi Simon, thanks for making up such a lovely jacket. I have got a question on sizing – I usually wear size 3 (small) in Private White jackets and even for the PS Bridge Coat which you suggested sizing up, I am still in size 3. Strangely, I wear medium for the Friday polo. Which size would you suggest me for this suede jacket?

Thank you.

Adam

Did you mean 50? Thanks Simon

Anonymous

Very nice looking jacket – I like the deep shade of brown. I actually find brown more useful for travel. If I’m going to make a trip to a city (eg, Paris), I’m never going to go without a navy blazer (or perhaps a navy suit as an alternative) – eg, to wear For dinner at a nice restaurants, concerts, etc. So if I’m trying to travel light, traveling with a navy blazer and brown suede jacket is more versatile than traveling with a navy blazer and a navy suede jacket.

L

Lovely piece – I am quite fond of Valstars version but never pulled the trigger, mainly due to to the arm length (T-rex arms). Whats your view on shortening the sleeves with ribbings, is it possible? Could it even be done nicely?

Just want to echo the sizing, I am a standard 46 but 46 does not work for me at all and I am a slim guy.

Chancellor

First, you have a minor typo misspelling “weather” in the third paragraph.

Second, I’d like some advice on colour. I hesitated buying the navy Valstarino last year because I wasn’t sure if I wanted a navy one, or if I wanted a dark brown suede jacket. I happen to be a size 46/48, so now I very much have that choice.

The reasons navy appeals is that
– I generally dress smarter (creased trousers, collared shirts or polo shirts)
– May work better with my trousers (greys including dark greys, olives, browns, rarely navy, never blue denim)
– Would wear with black or mid- to dark-brown shoes including brown suede (you discourage matching suedes in shoes and jacket)
– Brown horn on navy suede is lovely

What makes me lean to brow suede is
– Perhaps marginally more appealing colour of suede to me
– Have more navy outerwear than brown outerwear, so it would help diversify my colours a little
– Your advice that it is more versatile.

Your perspectives would be very much appreciated!

Joe

Love this jacket, Simon. Have wanted a Valstarino for some time and was hoping you’d do the reversible in dark brown.

My only question is: is it a real no-no to wear brown suede shoes with a jacket of this colour? I could imagine it would go with almost literally every shirt, piece of knitwear and pair of trousers I own but my favourite and most useful pair of shoes is probably my brown (not snuff) Alden chukkas. Will people laugh at me on the street…?

E L

You should read Wikpedia’s entry on the spotlight effect. Indeed, I think many people who spend time on this site should.

ben

This is beautiful. Your articles on the Valstarino (including the one introducing the PS reversible version) convinced me to grab one in dark Brown. I wish I’d waited for this year’s iteration!

Anonymous

Great jacket, extremely beautiful color, but wouldn’t the sleeves look better on you if they were a little bit shorter?

Vincent

Just finished reading the article but then I realised size 46 is not available. Will it be restocked again?

Vincent

Thanks Simon. Unfortunately I am. I own several Baracuta G9 in 36 (one in light brown suede) and I found their measurements quite close to your 46 (according to your chart). Hope you’ll have 46 again next season then…

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Valstars don’t really work for me fit wise having tried them on at Drakes so I won’t be buying one of these.

However, it strikes me that you have a number of suede jackets, particularly bombers in various styles and colours. I was wondering whether you’d consider doing a write up on them as a collective article with their pros and cons?

I do appreciate that most of the information will be somewhere on your site.

Thanks
J

Maël

I’d love to read a comparison as well. Have you ever heard / tried Atacama ? They do a similar jacket to the Valstarino, MTO, MTM or Bespoke with silk or cachemire lining, for a slightly lower price. Would be curious to have your views on it.

R Abbott

Could you elaborate on how the internal / external pockets work? With reversible jackets this always seems to be an issue.

I have a reversible navy coat (cashmere on one side, quilted padding on the other) that’s very nice except on this one front. And although this might sound superfluous, having good (and easily accessible) interior pockets is Important, from a practical perspective.

Fatih

This is a lovely jacket. How would you compare the Valstarino to its equivalent Bomber jackets from Alfonso Rifugio fit and finish wise? And on another note, breathable fabrics like Gore Tex for instance need some serious difference in outside temperature to body temperature for the breathing properties to work properly. Otherwise people will sweat to death. Is that Loro Piana fabric really that different that I won‘t get wet from the inside in moderate weather conditions?

Ben

Never got the appeal of type A jackets. Why would you want a jacket that makes the midsection more prominent? Is it the same idea as trouser pleats?

Anonymous

Could you add a photo of what the jacket looks like when reversed – so that you see the entire jacket? Right now, you only have 2 pictures of the jacket in reverse – one focuses on the neck area, and the other is a close-up of the buttons.

Ian A

Nice! I’d find this more wearable than your bespoke tailored items as I don’t attend many ‘occasions’ and don’t work in a professional office! Much as I would love to wear tailoring all the time.

SS

Lovely and very useful piece indeed. Slightly different question – are you planning to do a run of the Bridge coat for winter? Thanks

Robert M

Sorry to continue the off-topic, but there is no need to be put on the waiting list if I need to visit Private White in person to order the MTM Bridge Coat, right? I’d have done it some time ago, but with the international travel restrictions I wasn’t able to.

Craig

Beautiful jacket, but I am concerned about the length. Obviously individuals’ proportions vary, but how do you find this jacket fits taller people? I am 1.91m and a 68cm body length for the 56 seems like it might be a little short, especially as compared to some of my other jackets. Thoughts? Thanks.

David

Hi Simon,

What shoes were you wearing with the black needlecord D’avino shirt and grey trouser outfit?
I love the mix of brown and black, but find myself at odds with what shoes to wear with such an outfit.

Also, are there any 56 available? I’ve been looking since this morning (in the US) and it hasn’t been available.

Keep up the items in the shop!

Stephen

I assume your sizing is European.
UK size 40. European 50

Rob

This is a lovely style. But do you think it could be carried off by someone carrying a bit too much excess weight around the middle?

Rob

“It depends how much …..”

Sadly a bit too much, with the lockdown diet not helping ……

D Hugehs

Simon,

I am willing to give you my firstborn and my left testicle if you do a reversible valstar in grey.

R/

A hopeful unic

Anonymous

Never hurts to have spares…

ANM

Simon,

Nice jacket…..Question : why buttons, and not a zipper?

Michael Murray

Just received my size 52. I typically wear between a 38-40 in U.S. suit/jackets sizes. I also typically wear size 50 in Italian sweaters. With some help from Simon I determined to size up and buy a 52 and am very glad I did. If you’re on the fence as some sizes come back in stock from returns I would highly recommend sizing up. Thanks for creating such a unique jacket Simon! You took a great product and made it even better. As an American I am going to have to watch the Seinfeld episode “The Jacket” to celebrate the arrival.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

I m very pleased with this Valstarino in size 50 EU. If any helpfull for anyone considering size. I m size 46 EU RTW jackets/suits (Corneliani, Isaia, Caruso, Cesare Attolini). Just bought a blue Valstarino 48 EU in March in linen wool silk LP rainsystem blend which is perfect fit for me over a polo (Ralph Lauren size S) or thin cashmere rollneck (Italian S) . I m 180 cm with a jeans (501) W30/L32.
Beautiful product Simon.

GJLegend

If one already has the sandal suede version, would you say the dark brown suede is redundant, or is it different enough to justify having both? Or would you recommend something else to supplement the sandal?

Chancellor

I bought a size 46, and mostly fits pretty well. However, it feels a little short, and the side pockets are awkwardly high and so difficult to use.

Sizing up out increase the length f the jacket by 1 cm. Do you think that would make much difference?

Chancellor

Thanks for your advice. Based on that it’s probably fine–it’s probably just a shorter style than I was expecting. It does have the benefit that the ribbing at the bottom sits fairly high up, so it doesn’t ride up and the jacket doesn’t blouse much at the waist. Perhaps that was the goal.

Leendert

As the Italians are right on this aspect ;-)) ; it’s their jacket (see the catalog), I would say, size/fit sounds correct to me and wouldn’t worry either:

http://www.valstar.it/it/content/20-catalog

TK

Simon,
This post is tempting me to buy another Valstarino, but I already have one. The problem is that it is lined with cashmere and given the climates I generally live and work in, I rarely get to wear it. Can you offer any thoughts on having the lining removed? Is this at all feasible? Many thanks.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Congratulations on the success of this collaboration! I’m thinking of getting a new suede jacket. I have dark brown, light (tan) brown, and a sort of rust or brick color. I’m torn between navy and dark olive. I wear suede mostly casually, but sometimes with flannels or tailored cotton trousers. Your input would be much appreciated!

Noel

Hi Simon,

I’m awaiting my reversible Valstarino and I wondered if the suede side should be sprayed in the way you recommend on your article about taking care of suede jackets? Or does it not needed because of the other side? Or perhaps just spray it with the care spray and not the waterproofing one?

Thanks

Noel

Makes sense Simon.
And besides protection, when new is a conditioning spray like Saphir Renovateur advisable? (You have mentioned that at least for shoes, the suede or leather can be dry if it’s been in storage at the factory or shop for a while)

TM

Are the loafers ‘Hamstead’? how do you like them compared to the Belgravia’s?

Matrescu Mihai

Hi Simon,
Do you think the moleskin bomber from Private White could be a substitute for the Valstarino jacket?
Thanks!

Rob

Hi Simon, just wondering if you think you will bring this brown version back next year?

Also, do you think this Drake’s bomber would be a good substitute for a Valstarino: https://www.drakes.com/clothing/coats-and-jackets/brown-suede-a-1-flight-jacket

Or do you know of anyone else that produces a similar jacket that would be a level up compared to the basic Valstarino?

Many thanks for your help.

WK

Hi Simon,

Why people think there is a faux pas of wearing brown suede jacket with brown suede shoe? I think your belgravia looks fine with the suede jacket. Would a calf shoe looks better? Thanks for answering.

Teo

Hi Simon, hope you’re well.

Will there be a re-stock of the Valstarinos (either in navy or brown) at any point this year? Hoping things have changed since you last indicated there probably won’t be another run of those when this article was published.

I’ve already got the Bridge Coat and three of the PS oxford shirts and this looks like another extremely versatile must-have piece. I’m in a dilemma between waiting for the Valstarino or snagging the significantly cheaper (albeit less functional) Private White moleskin bomber. Would be great to hear your thoughts.

Teo

Thanks a lot, Simon.

Is there any ETA you could share? I suppose it would be around June again?
Also, are you planning to release the navy version or it would be brown again? Thinking navy would fit really well in my wardrobe at the moment but can equally see the case for going for brown.

Martins

If around June, I’m really hoping on dark brown!

Teo

I am myself hoping for a navy version, although both would be really useful. An earlier indication on colour would be very useful though.

Simon, are there any cases where a navy version would be appropriate and brown wouldn’t be, and vice versa?

Teo

Thanks Simon, that makes sense. Is there any scope for doing a run of both colours?

Mark

Olive would be a good colour for a casual jacket like this.

Anonymous

Here’s another vote for a dark olive – there you would not only be filling the gap in the market for an all weather suede blouson, but also the one for this color.

Chris

I’ll bang the drum one last time with another vote for a dark, cool shade of Olive (or another cold tone, Navy would be lovely again).

My best,
Ck

Teo

Hi again, Simon

Apologies – another quick question. Having worn both, if you had to choose one size again, would you go for the 50 or the 52?

Trying to figure out which one is best for me given my fairly large chest and back. Put down my name on the waiting list for the 52, however afraid that the sleeves might be a touch too long for me (1.79m height).

Great to hear your thoughts, as always.

Best,
Teo

RT

Hi Simon,

If you haven’t settled on a colour yet, might I suggest a taupe/mushroom colour? I believe that Valstarino have offered something like this in the past, which looked really good. It would be a change from the ubiquitous brown/polo shades. Just a thought!

Richard

Adam Jones

I am actually looking at the trunk “greige” one at the moment. Similar to the mushroom one you have which I love. Considering a am a jeans and Oxford h inform wearer, even at work these days do you still find useful?

Zo

Simon, any chance of these coming back?

Martins

and I really hope this won’t be last run… in spring it wouldn’t be responsible for me to get one..

Chris k

Simon,

The outfit with the black suede Belgravia’s, cream levis’, grey Colhay’s and of course the Valstarino. I have an observation or rather something I’ve discovered from my own experimentation.

To me, this outfit is clean, contemporary, timeless dressing at it’s best. Which prompts me to ask this question. Say you were to swap the jacket and shoes round regards colour, black suede Valstarino, brown suede Belgravia’s?

To me, this isn’t as effective. I have tried to figure out why, I’m sure it is the fact that because the black is the darker (is any possible scenario (even if only slightly in any case) it throws the balance off. It’s almost as if the black shoes ‘solidify’ the outfit, where as with brown shoes black jacket, it just seems to be ever so slightly off balance. And this goes for any black shoe brown jacket vs brown shoe black jacket combination I’ve ever seen or experimented with. The former always looks clean, and modern. The latter I don’t know if I’ve ever seen work as well. I raise this because when done correctly, it’s such a clean and subtle colour combination as you are well aware.

Would love to know your thoughts,
Ck

Chris K

Over complication is my specialty, but you’re spot on. Very nicely simplified Simon, that’s exactly it. With the black shoes, it comes across as just an accent/compliment around the edges. Same story with your back cord shirt/ grey trousers outfit. I think you’ve mentioned before, but this seems to be where black really comes into its own.

Ck

JB

Great article Simon! I really love the style of that jacket.
Question regarding fit. I normally wear a 38 to 40 suit depending on the cut. However, I’m a bit cautious taking a comfortable fit (vs a fitted one) because I’m worried it will stretch further and just be too big. A fitted one will be fine but the flip side is if pick up weight or gain size it will pinch across the chest/stomach area which ends up looking too tight.
Would this suede jacket stretch over time? Also, considering the style of the jacket is a bomber, would a slightly more relaxed fit would be more appropriate than a fitted one?
Whereas typically a racer leather jacket would be fine if its completely fitted as they tend to stretch over time.
Thanks, looking forward to your response

JB

Thanks, appreciate the response.