Reader Profile: Jeff
Jeff Hilliard is Director of Limited Editions at Hodinkee, the watch magazine/empire in New York. But he used to work at The Armoury, until 2017, and then did two years at Mr Porter. So while not strictly working in menswear today, he is certainly m...
Reader Profile: Jeff
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Thank you for the answer. I wanted to ask this question as well after reading the article, but thankfully, Magnus already asked the question....
Black tops and tonal combinations under
In many ways, today's outfit is a natural extension of things we’ve been talking about recently. There was, back on August 12, our discussion about wearing all black , which has some bearing here. The outfit is not all black, of course, but i...
Black tops and tonal combinations under
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Yes, it's not the kind of one mills usually prioritise, as it isn't as dressy...
How to wear a cream jacket
A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and illustrates, three ways I&am...
How to wear a cream jacket
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Ha! Fingers crossed. Mid-grey definitely...
Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino
*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes bac...
Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino
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Hi Varun I’m afraid this model is no longer sold. Have a look at our updated jacket here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/02/introducing-the-new-reversible-suede-bomber.html Our best advice is to measure a jacket y...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capac...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
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I would be confident enough to trust in Luca making a more formal shirt suitable for a bow tie. What attracts me to Luca is that there are no minimum number of shirts for a first bespoke commission with him. T&A, if ...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
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Because it gets dirty easily...
Best-dressed man 2018: Ethan Newton (or, how to d...
Best-Dressed Man of the Year: Ethan Newton Runners up: Andreas Weinas Yukio Akamine Noboru Kakuta Bruce Boyer Our Best-Dressed Man of the Year is Ethan Newton, founder of Bryceland’s Co – the store in Tokyo and now in Hong...
Best-dressed man 2018: Ethan Newton (or, how to d...
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Hi Christopher, Might I suggest Brooks Brothers or J. Press, or O'Connell's in Buffalo, NY? Brooks Brothers sells shirts off the rack that would definitely fit you, also suits and trousers in yr sizes. It is my understan...
The Ambrosi workshop, Naples
I think there is a tendency to view my reviews of artisans as binary - either ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Perhaps because there are just so few bad reviews of luxury products. But the reality is no view is straightforward. Some tailors ...
The Ambrosi workshop, Naples
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As far as I know there still is, yes. Have you not tried a Google search?...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
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Probably not, but worth asking the maker if they can perhaps prepare a fitting for you in that time, so you can be fitted and have the finished shirt sent to you...
Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to...
This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo. Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectively the launch of Neapolitan trou...
Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to...
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In a week or two, just waiting on photos...
Wearing black (in a sports jacket)
I recently remembered these shots we took last year in Japan - it was September, but Tokyo was hot and humid, as Europe has been in recent weeks. Although wool, the checked jacket is 9 ounces and half lined, wearing pretty cool. It was a useful piec...
Wearing black (in a sports jacket)
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It was about black in the pattern, rather than being completely black. To be honest I'd avoid a black jacket. It will make bold colours and patterns look stronger if anything. Grey is best at neutralising those. And navy...
Summer colours: Tobacco and tan
Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. They are displayed on my wonderf...
Summer colours: Tobacco and tan
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That bunch is no longer current I'm afraid (as with pretty much all cloths older than 2 or 3 years). Most still carry a natural or biscuit-coloured version however...
Ambrosi ready-to-wear trousers
Last year, while in Japan at Bryceland's, Salvatore Ambrosi offered me two pairs of his new ready-to-wear trousers to try. Regular readers will remember that the bespoke trousers I had from Ambrosi the previous year suffered from consistency issues....
Ambrosi ready-to-wear trousers
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Yes it should be able to be corrected by letting out the hips a little, but it’s hard to give concrete advice remotely...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....
Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review
I began the process of having trousers made by Salva (-tore Ambrosi) just over a year ago. Since then I’ve had two pairs made – in fresco and flannel – and while the quality of the product has been good, the process hasn&...
Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review
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No, and most of mine from him do have side adjustors...
Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers – in London
UPDATE : A few people have asked for contact details to make appointments. The event is being hosted by The Armoury – it’s [email protected] and [email protected]. (Zach is taking appointments and measurements for Sai...
Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers – in London
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Ambrosi can do a good mid-rise too, yes...
Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...
I know that one of the style areas people find most difficult is wearing sports jackets, or separate waistcoats, with everything else: shirt, tie, hank, trousers. I’ve always loved the way Alan at The Armoury wears these things together, ...
Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...
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How true. Think what you want about the clothes — for me they are more an exercise in fashion rather than style — that said, all is ruined by the phenomena of 'the dodgy barnett '. All of us that are lucky enough to ...
Reader question: belts with suits
Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. Sh...
Reader question: belts with suits
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Regarding suit jackets, I’ll be trying my current Steed Jacket, currently paired with trousers and braces/side-adjusters, with another pair of “belted”and indeed very much cheaper RTW grey trousers to check the loo...
