Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review

April 15th 2024

I'm back! Hello everyone, I hope you had a nice week in the amiable arms of Manish, and you haven't all decided he is better in every respect than me. Although even if you have, fear not - he will be writing again very soon, including the second par...

Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review

Match in comments:
Hey Nick, I wouldn't say the right shoulder is.higher, no. In general I think it's hard to do this kind of detailed.analysis from photos...

JacketsApril 15th 2024

Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...

March 27th 2024

Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested i...

Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...

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In the right fabric, yes it can do....

JacketsMarch 27th 2024

B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review

March 6th 2024

We covered the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some detail here at the beginning of the month. For details on them, their history and their style, please read that article. It might seem a little odd splitting things up like this, but I find it m...

B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review

Match in comments:
A bespoke overcoat is always full canvas Larry, and I would always have that. Even on a lightweight summer jacket I would always have full canvas - just make the canvas lighter...

CoatsMarch 6th 2024

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth

February 16th 2024

By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth

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No problem John...

ClothFebruary 16th 2024

The Guide to Tweed: Bunches

December 6th 2023

In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...

The Guide to Tweed: Bunches

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Yes, that's right, and lovely to hear!...

ClothDecember 6th 2023

The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...

July 7th 2023

Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...

The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...

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No I think it would be, yes...

ClothJuly 7th 2023

The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates

March 10th 2023

I’m pleased to say that the next in our series of talks at Mortimer House will be with Oliver and Carl from Rubato, on March 31st. These events have a really nice atmosphere, with everyone milling around, browsing the products and chatting to ...

The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates

Match in comments:
There are quite significant differences. The Rubato cut is a little unusual - a little shorter, a little fuller in the chest. They also tend to use lambswool rather than cashmere, which is a little chunky, hard-wearing b...

March 10th 2023

An Hermes silk scarf with all navy

January 30th 2023

Long-term readers will be familiar with my passion for Hermes silk scarves, which I’ve often bought over the years as a treat, and of which I now have a small collection (nine of them, since you ask). I’ve found particular enjoyment thi...

An Hermes silk scarf with all navy

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Yes, that would be nice PA. Nice size for that...

Hanks and scarvesJanuary 30th 2023

PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...

January 27th 2023

March 1 update: Rubato and Permanent Style dates confirmed as March 29 to April 1 Rubato will be launching new products, bringing almost everything to try on, and a good range to buy as well Fox will be running different on different days of their e...

PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...

Match in comments:
Hi Teo, Yes that's right, and I'll be there with them on Thursday, the first day. It will open at 10am...

January 27th 2023

The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed

January 23rd 2023

By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...

The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed

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Not yet I'm afraid Ben, we haven't seen them in person...

JacketsJanuary 23rd 2023

What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?

May 23rd 2022

This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, o...

What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?

Match in comments:
Strength and weather-resistance are the only ones really. I'd only go for it if weather-resistance were a big factor...

May 23rd 2022

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...

March 9th 2022

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...

Match in comments:
Thanks Ollie, I did!...

Knitwear - StyleMarch 9th 2022

Layering and accessories for cold Spring days

May 7th 2021

Back when these things were possible, I remember an American friend visiting in the Spring and asking: “How on earth do you dress for this weather? I can see my breath in the morning, but my midday I’m roasting and can barely wear a jack...

Layering and accessories for cold Spring days

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Wonderful! Thank you Jack...

StyleMay 7th 2021

Both chic and bold: How to dress like Angel Ramos

May 5th 2021

  Although Angel Ramos and I have only met a few times, we’ve always seemed to have something in common when it came to styles we liked. Angel wears slippers a lot, and has more of a tendency towards bright colours and patterns. The ov...

Both chic and bold: How to dress like Angel Ramos

Match in comments:
Yes I expect so. Certainly all perspectives valid and should be considered, but there are always many...

StyleMay 5th 2021

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

March 8th 2021

Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury   I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

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Amazing, so pleased Matthew. That's time, money and waste all saved!...

TrousersMarch 8th 2021

Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)

August 5th 2020

A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...

Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)

Match in comments:
I would Ciardi, Pirozzi and Ettore de Cesare probably. The softness won't vary much, the thing to watch out for is just getting a very natural shoulder - no roping at all in the sleevehead...

StyleAugust 5th 2020

Wearing black

January 22nd 2020

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...

Wearing black

Match in comments:
To be honest I'm not sure Charlie - I've never worn that style of jacket in anything other than blue denim and I think it might be a bit much for me if I did...

Coats - ShoesJanuary 22nd 2020

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

January 13th 2020

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

Match in comments:
Hi Ayush I think that's a risk with all colours, but, I agree, the effect might be exaggerated with unusual colours because the standout more. In the example you've given, I think it's not so much the colour (which I don...

ShirtsJanuary 13th 2020

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...

December 30th 2019

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...

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They aren't necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top - the shirring. You can have one, both,...

Suits - VideoDecember 30th 2019

Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared

November 22nd 2019

This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...

Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared

Match in comments:
There's always one in there - just needs to be controlled now and again!...

Jackets - VideoNovember 22nd 2019

Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket

November 6th 2019

At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure an...

Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket

Match in comments:
Thank you. I'm afraid that number of takes, audio and editing is a bit beyond our budget/time, but thank you for the suggestions - I'll bring them up with the team....

Jackets - VideoNovember 6th 2019

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

October 21st 2019

This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

Match in comments:
The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...

ClothOctober 21st 2019

A guide to high-twist bunches

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches

Match in comments:
Good point Peter. I'd add that it is a touch more smooth and suit-like, but only a touch, and that's always the trade off with these high twists...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...

June 12th 2019

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...

Match in comments:
I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...

Cloth - TrousersJune 12th 2019

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

May 10th 2019

Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, while Chittleboroug...

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

Match in comments:
I think it can, yes, but it helps if it's not in business-type colours like grey or navy...

May 10th 2019