A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants.  As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if th...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti in...

June 12th 2019

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti in...

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of...

Cloth - TrousersJune 12th 2019

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

May 10th 2019

Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, while Chittleboroug...

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

  Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their h...

May 10th 2019

A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown

April 1st 2019

This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, in that there’s no jacke...

A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown

This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, ...

StyleApril 1st 2019

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

February 8th 2019

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and ...

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’...

ShirtsFebruary 8th 2019

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

July 25th 2018

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (abo...

Casual jackets - ClothJuly 25th 2018

Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers

May 4th 2018

Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp. Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went well together: the fuzzy surfac...

Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers

Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp.   Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went ...

Casual jackets - KnitwearMay 4th 2018

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

April 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separa...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘o...

TrousersApril 18th 2018

Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill

February 12th 2018

*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...

Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill

*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill.   ...

Cloth - TrousersFebruary 12th 2018

Fox trousers (And everything else from Day 1 of the...

November 17th 2017

Matthew Coles of Drake's (and Dominic of Edward Sexton behind) Francis Paley of Chittleborough & Morgan (a photography magnet...) Allan's family! There was a really lovely atmosphere to the opening of our second pop-up shop on Wednesday nigh...

Fox trousers (And everything else from Day 1 of the...

Matthew Coles of Drake's (and Dominic of Edward Sexton behind) Francis Paley of Chittleborough & Morgan (a photography magnet...) Allan's family! There was a really lovely atmosphere to the opening of our second pop...

TrousersNovember 17th 2017

The Pop-Up Shop is back!

November 1st 2017

I'm very excited to say that the Permanent Style Presents pop-up shop will be back this winter, opening in two weeks on November 15th. We've switched approach slightly, using a slightly smaller space but staying open much longer (5 weeks) - so hop...

The Pop-Up Shop is back!

I'm very excited to say that the Permanent Style Presents pop-up shop will be back this winter, opening in two weeks on  November 15th.  We've switched approach slightly, using a slightly smaller space but staying ope...

November 1st 2017

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

October 13th 2017

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on those being discussed. So in ...

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus o...

Denim - KnitwearOctober 13th 2017

Fox Brothers vintage cloth – available in the...

March 3rd 2017

Shop update: Sartoria Solito and Luca Avitabile shirts will be in the shop today and tomorrow for a trunk show. They're pretty full already, but if you want to try and make an appointment, please contact [email protected] or [email protected]

Fox Brothers vintage cloth – available in the...

Shop update: Sartoria Solito and Luca Avitabile shirts will be in the shop today and tomorrow for a trunk show.  They're pretty full already, but if you want to try and make an appointment, please contact l.a.shirtmake...

ClothMarch 3rd 2017

Pop-up shop: The brands and the opening party

February 9th 2017

Following last week's announcement of our pop-up shop on Savile Row - under the banner 'Permanent Style presents' - here are some details of the shop and the brands. I also include an invitation, above, to any readers to come to the opening party o...

Pop-up shop: The brands and the opening party

Following last week's announcement of our pop-up shop on Savile Row - under the banner 'Permanent Style presents' - here are some details of the shop and the brands.  I also include an invitation, above, to any readers...

February 9th 2017

Green flannel suit – from Brian Smith

October 2nd 2015

Few readers will be surprised to hear that I like a nice green suit. Green is a wonderfully versatile colour, going with every autumnal colour you can think of, plus really strong browns, purples and oranges that few other colours could support. (...

Green flannel suit – from Brian Smith

   Few readers will be surprised to hear that I like a nice green suit. Green is a wonderfully versatile colour, going with every autumnal colour you can think of, plus really strong browns, purples and oranges that fe...

Style - SuitsOctober 2nd 2015

A green cotton suit?

January 12th 2015

In my review of Spanish tailor Reillo’s cotton suit last week, there proved to be only room to analyse the fit and make. Yet a reader rightly pointed out that green cotton-gabardine is hardly an everyday cloth option. I’ll expla...

A green cotton suit?

  In my review of Spanish tailor Reillo’s cotton suit last week, there proved to be only room to analyse the fit and make. Yet a reader rightly pointed out that green cotton-gabardine is hardly an everyday cloth o...

Cloth - ShoesJanuary 12th 2015

My Christmas list

November 28th 2014

At this time of year I normally do a list of Christmas gift suggestions. Apparently last year a reader took the initiative and left a print-out of the list sitting on a coffee table at home. It did the trick – a couple of the items turned...

My Christmas list

  At this time of year I normally do a list of Christmas gift suggestions. Apparently last year a reader took the initiative and left a print-out of the list sitting on a coffee table at home. It did the trick –...

November 28th 2014

Ollie Trenchard: Style and the Tailor

November 19th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 394 2248 Euromoney PLC 18 4 2760 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Where do you work? I work at Anderson and Sheppard as an apprentice coat cutter. I’ve been there for just under two and a half years. How did ...

Ollie Trenchard: Style and the Tailor

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 394 2248 Euromoney PLC 18 4 2760 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Where do you work? I work at Anderson and Sheppard as an apprentice coat cutter. I’ve been there for just under two ...

November 19th 2012

Fox Flannel: Factory visit

December 8th 2011

When you approach the town of Wellington over a rolling Somerset hill, you are greeted by a row of chimneys silhouetted against the horizon. This is the outline of the old Fox Brothers facilities, which at its peak employed over 5000 people and prett...

Fox Flannel: Factory visit

When you approach the town of Wellington over a rolling Somerset hill, you are greeted by a row of chimneys silhouetted against the horizon. This is the outline of the old Fox Brothers facilities, which at its peak emplo...

Factory visitsDecember 8th 2011

The Merchant Fox

November 10th 2011

Douglas Cordeaux took over the running of weavers Fox Brothers in 2009, along with his friend and Dragon’s Den resident Deborah Meaden. When he moved down to Somerset, despite high expectations, he was blown away by the manufacturing handwork a...

The Merchant Fox

Douglas Cordeaux took over the running of weavers Fox Brothers in 2009, along with his friend and Dragon’s Den resident Deborah Meaden. When he moved down to Somerset, despite high expectations, he was blown away by th...

BagsNovember 10th 2011

Innovation in denim at Rapha

June 29th 2011

I’m always interested in innovations in fabric, and one of the excuses for featuring my favourite cycling brand – Rapha – is that they are constantly pushing boundaries here, whether on wool, leather (both of which I&...

Innovation in denim at Rapha

I’m always interested in innovations in fabric, and one of the excuses for featuring my favourite cycling brand – Rapha – is that they are constantly pushing boundaries here, whether on wool, leather (b...

DenimJune 29th 2011

Looking forward to the Golden Shears

March 7th 2011

For those that don’t know, the Golden Shears is the Merchant Taylors’ cutting and tailoring competition, which takes place every two years. Entrants, all under 35, are apprentices or students of tailoring. They each have to design, cut an...

Looking forward to the Golden Shears

For those that don’t know, the Golden Shears is the Merchant Taylors’ cutting and tailoring competition, which takes place every two years. Entrants, all under 35, are apprentices or students of tailoring. They each ...

March 7th 2011