Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closi...
At the end of last autumn, I asked Steven Hitchcock to make an overcoat - it was a little late to start thinking about it, but I hoped to be able to wear it by the end of the winter. Unfortunately my travels and Steven’s got in the way, at it ...
Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closi...
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I don't to be honest Nick, but it's a good question and I will ask when I'm around...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
I had this overcoat made earlier in the year by Sartoria Ciardi from Naples, but have only had a chance to wear it consistently the past few months. The cloth is CT17 from Fox - a 20/21oz wool in their overcoatings bunch. I was confident of the sty...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
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Yes, it is the char brown. I'd say not as versatile as either of those, but still very useful...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
By Manish Puri. I’ve had my eye on a dark green suit for a long time. So when Simon very kindly offered me a length of the olive flannel that he’d collaborated on with Fox Brothers, I jumped at the chance. To give me an idea of what I wa...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
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I enjoy reading Manish. Also, he's really handsome =)...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
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I think I'd leave it up to them and you're feeling when you try it Callum, rather than try and pre-judge it...
Introducing: The Permanent Style collection at Fox
When I visited T&G Caraceni in Rome last year, a particular bolt of vintage cloth caught my eye. It was a brown-and-black houndstooth tweed, mid-weight but densely woven (as a lot of that vintage tweed tends to be). Unfortunately only 1.5m ...
Introducing: The Permanent Style collection at Fox
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Simon, Very helpful, thank you! Best, Robert...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic ...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
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Pleasure James...
Massura: Building on constructive criticism
Three years ago , I covered the German outfit Massura , who were offering a well-priced bespoke and MTM service made in Naples. However the jacket they made me had some substantial issues, which I covered in a review in the normal, honest way we do ...
Massura: Building on constructive criticism
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Yes. That would be Great. Mr Roetzel is very knowledgeabe....
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was a...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
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No, probably charcoal a little more, mostly for the reasons Manish sets out in this piece...
Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review
I'm back! Hello everyone, I hope you had a nice week in the amiable arms of Manish, and you haven't all decided he is better in every respect than me. Although even if you have, fear not - he will be writing again very soon, including the second par...
Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review
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Aha. Four-ply would be great for navy in that style, yes. The only thing I'd say is that a darker, smarter colour like navy or charcoal wouldn't be quite as easy to wear without a tie. It wouldn't look wrong, but can loo...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested i...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
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Oh good, lovely to hear...
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
We covered the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some detail here at the beginning of the month. For details on them, their history and their style, please read that article. It might seem a little odd splitting things up like this, but I find it m...
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
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Thank you! Very helpful...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
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Haha! Thank you so much for complimenting my piece, Kevin :)...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
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The logic makes sense, yes. When I have seen it in person I haven't usually liked the colour combinations that much, but that's likely largely personal...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
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No, patch pockets can be great too - my old DB one here had them...
The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
I’m pleased to say that the next in our series of talks at Mortimer House will be with Oliver and Carl from Rubato, on March 31st. These events have a really nice atmosphere, with everyone milling around, browsing the products and chatting to ...
The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
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There are quite significant differences. The Rubato cut is a little unusual - a little shorter, a little fuller in the chest. They also tend to use lambswool rather than cashmere, which is a little chunky, hard-wearing b...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
Long-term readers will be familiar with my passion for Hermes silk scarves, which I’ve often bought over the years as a treat, and of which I now have a small collection (nine of them, since you ask). I’ve found particular enjoyment thi...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
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The other benefit of a square (100 x 100 especially) scarf is that you can use the Japanese art of Furoshiki (there are even courses on it) meaning you can make your scarf useful when required. A prime example is taking ...
PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...
March 1 update: Rubato and Permanent Style dates confirmed as March 29 to April 1 Rubato will be launching new products, bringing almost everything to try on, and a good range to buy as well Fox will be running different on different days of their e...
PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...
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Hi Teo, Yes that's right, and I'll be there with them on Thursday, the first day. It will open at 10am...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
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Hi Manish, and thanks for this useful article! Do you know if the buttons are horn? They look like plastic in the photo, which seems shocking for such a high quality wool chore jacket, so I just want to make sure. The Fo...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, o...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
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I'd go dark brown, and a loafer would be good. Not sure navy would, but then I don't have any navy shoes, never really liked them as a smart shoe...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
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Yes I think so, and that looks like a nice colour...
Layering and accessories for cold Spring days
Back when these things were possible, I remember an American friend visiting in the Spring and asking: “How on earth do you dress for this weather? I can see my breath in the morning, but my midday I’m roasting and can barely wear a jack...
Layering and accessories for cold Spring days
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I don't think so, no. Though it's also one to think yourself - if you saw someone wearing one around where you are, would it look odd to you?...
Both chic and bold: How to dress like Angel Ramos
Although Angel Ramos and I have only met a few times, we’ve always seemed to have something in common when it came to styles we liked. Angel wears slippers a lot, and has more of a tendency towards bright colours and patterns. The ov...
Both chic and bold: How to dress like Angel Ramos
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I think it can look cool but you need to want to look like Angel, which is rather bolder than most styles we feature. Also has to be appropriate to you and where you live/work of course...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
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If that's the starting price, yes I'd still say they are good value. I don't think you can find an English-cut suit at that kind of price and quality elsewhere. You can certainly get good value elsewhere, eg WW Chan in H...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
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Thanks, Simon!...
Wearing black
Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...
Wearing black
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I don't think they've changed much, I still think it's a hard one. I'd only do it myself as something more for evening/events, or in a very casual material like a cord...
