Assisi handmade-to-measure suit: Review
It’s fair to say that since we first covered the Korean tailors Assisi here on Permanent Style, they’ve become extremely popular. They are now travelling to more destinations around the world, for longer, and we’ve seen many reader...
Assisi handmade-to-measure suit: Review
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Hi Michael, Can I ask whether you have read my articles on both Japanese and Korean tailors already? There is a dedicated article on Japanese ones here and then a separate one on Ciccio. For Korea, there is a general art...
Why do my flannels keep wearing through?
I was reading a piece in The Times last month which hailed the flannel trouser as the new trend in menswear. It’s funny how the mainstream can sometimes take a long time to catch up - it must be 15 years since the growth of ‘classic mens...
Why do my flannels keep wearing through?
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Looking at mtm or rtw mid grey flannel trousers. Does anyone have existence with both Cavour and Besnard? Besnard gives a ton of options online and seem reputable. If there are other similar shops please let me know....
Steven Hitchcock tweed bespoke coat: Review
This is the first English overcoat I’ve ever had made - or a traditional one anyway. There was the topcoat from Michael Browne , but that was his own particular style and structure. And there was the wrap coat from Whitcomb & Shaftesbu...
Steven Hitchcock tweed bespoke coat: Review
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Oh good...
The cornucopia of Cilento in Naples – and b...
It would be easy to walk past Cilento in Naples. I know because I've done so myself, several times. There’s a good chance your eye will be caught by a silk tie in the window, or a bottle of perfume sitting there, expectantly. But then you&rsq...
The cornucopia of Cilento in Naples – and b...
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I'm in Toronto often enough - do you mind providing the name of the store?...
The Cifonelli ‘foulard’ jacket
Cifonelli have a developed a new style of jacket that is the most unstructured they’ve done. They call it a ‘scarf’ jacket, though the name in English is a little misleading - in French it’s ‘foulard’, which captu...
The Cifonelli ‘foulard’ jacket
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Thanks...
Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closi...
At the end of last autumn, I asked Steven Hitchcock to make an overcoat - it was a little late to start thinking about it, but I hoped to be able to wear it by the end of the winter. Unfortunately my travels and Steven’s got in the way, at it ...
Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closi...
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I think it's nice, and indeed I've seen made up as a jacket, the texture is really good...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
I had this overcoat made earlier in the year by Sartoria Ciardi from Naples, but have only had a chance to wear it consistently the past few months. The cloth is CT17 from Fox - a 20/21oz wool in their overcoatings bunch. I was confident of the sty...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
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I may have been lucky, but the only time I bought a pair of second hand shoes I didn't have any problems with this....
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
By Manish Puri. I’ve had my eye on a dark green suit for a long time. So when Simon very kindly offered me a length of the olive flannel that he’d collaborated on with Fox Brothers, I jumped at the chance. To give me an idea of what I wa...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
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Thanks so much - that’s incredibly useful....
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
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Chiming in late but pleased to have discovered this article. Agreed that the cloth influences one's perception of the cut and moves it away from business connotations. At this point I would likely only consider a double-...
Introducing: The Permanent Style collection at Fox
When I visited T&G Caraceni in Rome last year, a particular bolt of vintage cloth caught my eye. It was a brown-and-black houndstooth tweed, mid-weight but densely woven (as a lot of that vintage tweed tends to be). Unfortunately only 1.5m ...
Introducing: The Permanent Style collection at Fox
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It will be per linear metre I'm pretty sure...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic ...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
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Pleasure James...
Massura: Building on constructive criticism
Three years ago , I covered the German outfit Massura , who were offering a well-priced bespoke and MTM service made in Naples. However the jacket they made me had some substantial issues, which I covered in a review in the normal, honest way we do ...
Massura: Building on constructive criticism
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Yes. That would be Great. Mr Roetzel is very knowledgeabe....
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was a...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
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Yes I'd say so...
Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review
Price update, May 2026: Prices are now €3000 for a jacket and €4000 for a suit in Europe, €4000 and €5300 in the UK and US. This is my finished jacket from Vittorio Salino, the Florentine tailor covered last month . During the w...
Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review
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Wonderful, thanks for the report Alexander...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested i...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
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My pleasure Nick, and really nice to hear...
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
We covered the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some detail here at the beginning of the month. For details on them, their history and their style, please read that article. It might seem a little odd splitting things up like this, but I find it m...
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
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Yes a navy could be a little smart Jonathan. I think look for a brown tweed, either dark or mid. One of the Fox Tweeds perhaps...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
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A navy blazer is undoubtedly the safest choice (my own first bespoke piece was a navy flannel blazer), but its one of drawbacks is, I see often one encounters the same uniform elsewhere. At a recent conference, I saw a g...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
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No, not really GA...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
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Only that it would usually have a drier handle and more matte surface, which might feel less business-y...
The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
I’m pleased to say that the next in our series of talks at Mortimer House will be with Oliver and Carl from Rubato, on March 31st. These events have a really nice atmosphere, with everyone milling around, browsing the products and chatting to ...
The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
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Yes, I have lots of the Rubato lambswool. Lambswool is just merino, but a lamb specifically. Merino generally is used to refer to a worsted yarn, making finer knits. But anyway, I wouldn't say their knits are close to ca...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
Long-term readers will be familiar with my passion for Hermes silk scarves, which I’ve often bought over the years as a treat, and of which I now have a small collection (nine of them, since you ask). I’ve found particular enjoyment thi...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
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Personally I think the losange is best worn in a similar way to a bandana - so tied simply at the front and tucked in, having been wrapped once or twice. It's a little too delicate hanging out on its own, at least for my...
PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...
March 1 update: Rubato and Permanent Style dates confirmed as March 29 to April 1 Rubato will be launching new products, bringing almost everything to try on, and a good range to buy as well Fox will be running different on different days of their e...
PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...
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Hi Teo, Yes that's right, and I'll be there with them on Thursday, the first day. It will open at 10am...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
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Hi Manish, and thanks for this useful article! Do you know if the buttons are horn? They look like plastic in the photo, which seems shocking for such a high quality wool chore jacket, so I just want to make sure. The Fo...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, o...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
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I would Theo, but I think you need to find contrast between the two any way you can. So for example, a shoe like the one shown in the post with some dark and some light brown in it. And between your two shoes, probably t...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
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Hi, In general no, I haven't, at least from a style point of view. I have usually stayed with the tailor's preference. However, over time my body has got a little bigger and as a result it has sometimes made sense to cut...
