My blue period: Packing for a weekend break

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By Manish Puri.

A couple of months ago the stars of friendship aligned for one glorious weekend when two of my dearest London mates - Simon (now residing in South Carolina) and Kevin (now in the Netherlands) - happened to be in New York on the same weekend.

The last time the three of us had taken a trip anywhere was 2009; 16 years isn’t long by astrological standards, but, assuming the same frequency into the future, it would mean our next opportunity to spend this much time together would be in my 60s. That bone-chilling thought hastened me into making arrangements to join them.

Unfortunately, as with most last-minute trips, it wasn’t shaping up to be cheap. A compromise had been reached on the eye-watering costs of NYC accommodation, whereby Kevin and I would share a hotel room so small we'd reach a level of familiarity usually only attained by guests of His Majesty.

In another prudential move, and more significantly from a menswear point of view, I was only going to bring carry-on luggage!

Now, for most of the male population, I concede this won’t seem like much of a sacrifice. But, nestled here in the bosom of my PS brethren, I don’t need to tell you how challenging this was for me - as confided in my Thailand article, I’m one of those overpackers who thinks that he’s just ‘being prepared’.

Into my impossibly small luggage, I would need to cram an unimpeachable selection of clothes; garments that wholly complemented one another, with sufficient versatility to take me from an elegant martini-and-oysters lunch at the wonderful Maison Premiere to sunset beers perched atop plastic children’s stools outside a Chinatown dive. 

My cream and brown holiday capsule (above left) certainly met the brief, but felt too soft and clean for a hard and dirty city like New York - that’s a compliment, by the way. An informal edit of Simon’s cold office outfits (above right) would better suit the environment, but with perfect cloudless skies forecast I wanted something a little warmer. 

So it’s fitting that on a trip where I reconnected with great old friends, I also rekindled my affection for that great old cornerstone of men’s style: the colour blue.

A dozen years ago, in common with so many guys who’ve embarked on that perilous voyage to improve their style, I found the safest passage to be through the darkest of blue waters. The colour navy became a hedge against the financial and social risks attached to trying new (and usually more expensive) clothes for the first time.

Hence, my Saman Amel navy business suit was augmented with navy knits, navy polos, dark indigo jeans and a navy pea coat. My first bespoke trousers from Pommella were navy twill. My accessories - umbrellas, ties, hats, gloves and scarves - were uniformly navy. And I’ll give you one guess what colour my first and only pair of Common Projects (remember those?) were. 

But, lacking the assuredness and wizened charisma of Noboru Kakuta (above), I think I convinced myself that it was all too bland. I was a chicken korma but my heart yearned to be a spicier dish. And like a moody teenager who reflexively thumbs their nose at their parent’s music, I began to reduce the amount of navy clothes I bought and commissioned.

I don't regret those impulses; without them I might never have learned that I prefer trousers to jeans, commissioned a cream linen suit or discovered that I’ll wear pretty much anything in pink.

But in the last couple of years, I’ve found myself buying more blue clothing once again: steely blue tailoring; cerulean t-shirts; azure workwear; baby blue bombers; and a smattering of navy (of course). I’m also now instinctively building outfits that are more monochrome than monotone: the ease and versatility of blue without the sobriety and conservatism of all-navy. 

So as I started to sift through what I might want to pack, and could see the dabs of blue forming on the palette, I decided to make like Picasso and fully embrace my blue period for New York. To borrow a description from my favourite Nick Drake song, the clothes I took were “darker than the deepest sea…weaker than the palest blue”.

The plaid shirt, which I nabbed at the inaugural PS pre-owned sale, is from RRL. I generally don’t wear work shirts (of the many words that have been used to describe me, ‘rugged’ isn’t among them), but I think the simple porcelain blue and white makes this one a fraction more refined, and thus less conspicuous if occasionally worn more smartly. 

RRL are particularly good at striking that balance, and a cursory Google search threw up quite a few nice options, including one on Marrkt which looks very similar to mine (available at the time of publication). 

The washed denim shirt is from J. McLaughlin; their collars are too small, but the fabric used here is excellent - suitably weathered and textured. In bright sunshine, and with an attendant tan, it pairs well with my vintage 501s (from Holdwest), but on gloomier days, to obviate the risk of looking too washed out, the navy PS cotton knit or slate blue Kamoshita x Decorum jacket help anchor it.

The latter (still available in smaller sizes) has proved a big hit over the summer - worn for every occasion from black tie events to drinks in New York, straight off the plane, with my friend Richie (top). 

The linen-cotton blend fared pretty well in the suitcase, and the lack of structure and more economical RTW price-point meant I wasn’t clutching my pearls as I folded it away.

The other navy-adjacent item I packed was the PS tapered T-shirt. While listed as ‘navy’, I’d argue it’s a shade lighter, with a subtle inky hue that’s easier to discern when worn with true navy (as above, in a look that coincidentally would fit perfectly alongside my holiday attire). The colouring makes a nice point of difference and gives the T-shirt a vintage feel.

I usually wear Uniqlo U T-shirts, which are a decent option at the price. But the PS T-shirt has a better neckline, softer and more substantial cotton, and a more flattering shape. Not to mention it’s a tubular knit. Like a lot of readers, I’ve been on the waiting list for a while and I’m very impressed with it.

The last two pieces I packed - a wide legged trouser from Decorum (above) and a Rubato polo shirt - were navy, and combined to make a smart but relaxed evening look. There's an interesting parallel with tailoring here: navy on top and bottom rarely draws a second glance, whereas pairing similar, pale blues walks a finer line between being striking and striking out.

However, most successful outfits tend to have some contrast - usually achieved by mixing darker shades with lighter ones or plain fabrics with patterned and textured ones.

For example, in my holiday wardrobe, while the RRL shirt and jeans have a similar tone, the checked pattern of the former helps create enough contrast with the latter. To further delineate top and bottom and add texture, I usually wear a belt; of course, I forgot to do so for this shoot (below), but you can imagine how a nice leather one would help here.

I restricted myself to one pair of shoes - not ideal from a maintenance perspective, but a real space-saver. The lucky pair were black cordovan Alden LHS loafers, the most comfortable leather shoe I own, plus cordovan is generally better at hiding fatigue than calf.

I’ve written before about my general preference for black shoes, but I suspect most readers would take a brown shoe or a canvas sneaker - both of which would work well with this mini wardrobe.

If opting for brown, suede is particularly nice, and for inspiration you don't need to look further than Noboru Kakuta who wears it almost exclusively in his all-blue ensembles.

So, how successful was my packing? Well, I’ve compiled a full list of the clothes I took with me at the end of the article, and I was happy to pair any one of those items with another. What’s more, in contrast to most previous holidays, I wore every single thing at least once. 

There was even sufficient room in the case to indulge in a little shopping at the beautiful new Buck Mason flagship store on Broadway. (Pro tip: if, like me, jet lag plays havoc with your sleep, the shop opens at 8am and you can simultaneously get both a caffeine and menswear fix).

But my packing’s true success isn’t measured by luggage-space-optimisation, wears-per-garment or ensemble-permutation metrics; it’s about the clarity and confidence a considered wardrobe can bring. 

For the four days I was away, I wasn’t wasting time in my tiny head or my tinier hotel room agonising over what to wear. I was present with my friends, rolling back the years (just with more frequent bathroom breaks). And long after the first hole in the elbow of my jumper appears and the shirts have become threadbare, the memories of our weekend in New York will endure.

Here’s to 2041, lads.

Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram

The full list:

  • Decorum x Kamoshita jacket
  • PS x Speciale cotton crew neck
  • RRL plaid work shirt
  • J. McLaughlin washed denim shirt
  • Rubato navy polo shirt
  • PS tapered navy t-shirt
  • Vintage Levi’s 501s
  • Decorum x Kamoshita navy easy trousers
  • Alden black cordovan LHS loafers
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97 Comments
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Bob

First of all everyone, as you approach and break into middle age, do make an effort to keep up with your old friends. Life is very busy and it is easy to put it off and before you know it you are 40, or 50 or 60 and still haven’t caught up with them.
Second, Manish, can I use this phrase please as my own: “I was a chicken korma but my heart yearned to be a spicier dish.” ? 😉

Stephen

I always love your writing Manish, so much character, warmth and humour shines through. Looks like a fantastic trip and you are right that you need to jump at these trips with the sands of time.

My only critique (and it isn’t really that) is that we need your NYC recommendations!

El Presidente

I so enjoy Manish’s writing. The glimpses of self-deprecating humour are much welcome in a menswear blog which takes itself quite seriously at times.

Il Commendatore

I want to echo this comment. Thanks Manish.

MK

A pair of Crockett & Jones unlined penny loafers in navy Horween cordovan (which I recently got for myself, bit of a gamble but I am smitten) – now that would have been the cherry on, well, not on top but you get it.

MK

Not on my part, I think a handful of shops had them (all gone now, I got the very last pair from Braun Hamburg at 50%). They’re the Harvard 2 unlined model, so an updated version of the loafer that Simon wrote about some years ago.

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Rich

“I was a chicken korma but my heart yearned to be a spicier dish” love this turn of phrase!!

I remember from years ago GQ magazine said whatever the tone blue-on-blue always goes and I’ve kinda stuck with that advice but now looking for something a little spicier as I move away from business casual and slim fits that I’ve worn for so long.

How was the weather? I was in NYC on my honeymoon 15 years ago and, man, was it so cold. Never felt wind chill like it and for the very first time bought a hat there to try to keep the chill off.

Joe P

Love NYC, love blue, love this piece, love Manish.

Joe P

Not to detract from the purity of my message above by ‘getting into it’, but I’m fascinated by the black shoes argument. Like you, it was enforced at my school, but it had the opposite effect: never again for me, apart from in very formal occasions (which are few and far between). But over the last couple of years, under Simon’s influence, I’ve become a real devotee of Colour 8 cordovan: my Alden LHS in that are my most-worn shoe, across a whole range of outfits. That feels like something of a gateway drug back to black – and even more so after seeing how great that style and material in black looks with your vintage Levi’s and RRL check shirt. I had been wondering what my next shoe purchase might be (a guy’s gotta have a project): maybe this is it.

Joe P

Happy New Year, Manish.

I’ve been wondering – not constantly, I swear – whether there might be any mileage in a ‘How to style black shoes casually’ piece.

I naturally think of black shoes as very smart, and so most at home with business or more formal attire. And because I don’t really wear that I don’t really wear black shoes. Yet they work so well here, with jeans and less formal tailoring (as you’ve shown in other outfits in the past, too). Much of it will come down to type of shoe, shape, whether leather, suede or cordovan – but it strikes me that’s exactly what’s potentially interesting: what works and how & why?

I remember Simon wrote that he got gently mocked when he gave styling advice about a white oxford, and maybe that’s a danger here. In the which case ignore me and my ignorance over black shoes. But so many menswear writers, not least here, have talked so much about brown suede as the supremely versatile material that I know I for one now take it as gospel; unimaginative sheep that I am, I can’t see past it.

It’s a chance to reclaim the spotlight for your beloved black shoe! And at same time help us all channel our inner Mark from Peep Show: “Could get brown brogues? Best stick to black, don’t want to go completely mental.”

Bobby S

Lovely article Manish, sounds like a great trip. Maybe it’s the time of year or perhaps I’m just getting soppy in my middle-age but I found some of your reflections surprisingly touching. Also it’s good to know your taste in Nick Drake songs is impeccable as your taste in clothing!

Giles

I lived in NYC for many years. Loved winter days when the sky was blue and it was freezing cold. Hated summer days in the city when it was 32 degrees and humid as hell.
After Labor Day, the women in particular go any colour you like as long as it’s black. Men are less restricted by convention but blacks/greys to tend to predominate.
I think your blues would sit very well in that environment Manish. Great reading this. Thank you.
PS why is Simon wearing a cap indoors? Not the done thing.

Aindriu

Manish, what’s your opinion on black suede loafers instead of leather?

Noah

I would love to know too

Giles

In Paris you will regularly see guys in dark gray flannel suits, with a black rollneck or mock, and black suede shoes.

Looks great to my eye.

Adam Pace

Nice article Manish.

Joel C.

Next trip come down to South Carolina Manish. Charleston perhaps

Henry M

Beautifully put – ‘ nestled here in the bosom of my PS brethren.
A lesser man would have simply said ‘the PS community’.

There is lots of consumerism on this site understandably, sometimes it’s a nice challenge to work with a smaller wardrobe. I certainly find that when I travel and really enjoy the few outfits I have.

As others have said a really poignant message about the importance of staying in touch with friends, trips like this are invaluable – despite the cost!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to the PS brethren.

Phil

Great choice of clothes. The key item for me is the Decorum x Kamoshita jacket which in that fairly neutral colour goes so well with everything. Unstructured, so perfect for
travelling… I want one!

Jake

Yes, love this jacket. Manish, was it true to size for you? Considering ordering one from The Decorum. Thanks.

Caleb C

You may be in the same weight class as Stanley Tucci’s travel wardrobe. The master of blues himself (I may or may not have an excel sheet proving the point).

Michael Murray

Manish, what a wonderful article and beautifully written. I love that while it speaks to our PS sensibilities, it ultimately realizes our friendships in life are the things we most cherish in the suitcase of life.

Om Rane

Simon, do you live in America now? And if you do, are we going to see an increase in American makers written about or PS events in America?

Simon Crompton

Hi Om,

No I don’t – why do you think that?

This piece was written by Manish, but it’s about him travelling to America from London obviously

Rich

Manish mentioned his friend Simon who lives in South Carolina, but he was referring to another Simon.

Lovely article. Manish, I love the loafers, but whenever I go to NYC, I do so much walking that I opt for classic trainers (though I would much rather the look of loafers).

Simon Crompton

Aha! Yes that explains the confusion Rich, thank you

CJ

Great article but especially like the last photo – this is what it’s all about!

Zackary

As always, great writing Manish!
I’m going to NYC soon and trying to dial in a carry on only approach. I was also considering only wearing Alden LHS. Were they comfortable after walking in NYC for 4 days?

Zackary

Thats what I was kind of thinking. We’ll see how it goes, but may try to sneak my New Balances somewhere in the bag.

Alfred

A delight as always Manish, thank you!

Johnny Shadow

Looks good 👍. Navy and black can work remarkably well together. We all go through these cycles and I have no doubt this article will reawaken a blue surge in many.

Richard

Another winning and entertaining article. Manish is one of the few people who can wear a sweater around his neck without looking like an anchor (or at least something that sounds like that). The beer shot looks like you’re wondering whether the alcohol will kill the fruit fly.

Philip

What’s the reason you stopped using Pommella, Manish?

Murray Jackson

Hi Manish
Once again another great article
I thought not another RRL tip, you cost me 3 pairs of RRL Tyler shorts from your far east escapades.
Keep up the good work, and hope one day to see you on Harley street as I meander down in my cab.
Murray

David

Love the combos and the linen pale blue/grey jacket in particular. Does anyone know any linen books/mills that have that or a similar shade?

James

To my wife’s amusement I have a disproportionate amount of blue in my wardrobe; so this is music to my ears. However, recently I’ve been packing more black and brown. I think Simon wrote about such a packing regime a while ago and since then when packing (for work) I’ve tried to stick to black and brown as my ‘go to’ colours. Maybe time to switch back to blue…

max

Heartwarming article! Wish you and the ps team all the best!
kind regards
Max!

Thorh

I’ve been packing this evening in readiness for a week in Italy over Christmas. After reading this article everything that’s gone into the case is blue.

Paul

learned a lot from this article and holy cow the jacket in that color is super perfect!

Peter

Fantastic rug in the first image under the clothes spread! Do you know what kind it is?

Sven

i would have added Germany Military Trainers and a baseballcap 🙂

VT

The part about cordovan hiding fatigue is very noticeable. Shows on a pair I own for about two years. On the other hand my Alden shell cordovan 8, with that distinctive color, holds up much better. The thing with Alden is that many of their loafers are a little wider in shape and is not a very visually pleasing look on my feet in particular. I wonder how the break in is on these LHS? Great read!!!

Scott

This is a wonderful article, thank you Manish!

joners

hi Manish,

That’s a well written article.
I wonder whether the only thing you cannot wear with your blue assemblage is a navy blazer, as that won’t go with a blue trouser of any kind except a jean. That must be why you chose the slate grey/blue jacket.
Is that right?

Makaga

Thank you, Manish, for the fun article and welcome to the Big Apple. As Permanent Style explores more beyond just clothing and delves into the experiences that the clothing is part of, I would love to read and see more about what you (and others!) are doing to connect with distant friends. We have our communities online but as you sagely pointed out, our relationships with our school chums often go years without being in the same room as each other. To more meaningful time together in the New Year!

And why didn’t you stop at The Armoury where I work?!? 😉

joners

hi
thanks for that reply. Something i wanted to ask you was how to wear an orange cashmere sleeveless sweater.
I just cannot get it to go with anything. Most of my clothing is the conventional blue and grey with some dark green thrown in. Chinos are the usual beige or navy. Perhaps it wasn’t such a good buy.
thanks

Daniel

Hi Joners. May depend on how strong the orange is , but looking back at the piece from January 2024 on colour theory, perhaps a mid grey herringbone jacket, soft shoulder, with mid blue faded jeans. The grey taking the edge off the stronger colour. and a white tee shirt under a pale collared shirt to keep it casual. Mid brown suede boots may also contribute to minimising the contrast?

Pete

Great article Manish. Really resonates with me for rather diverse reasons – I am currently contemplating a retirement wardrobe and adding long lasting items ahead of the day when disposable income is a thing of the past. Always open to new ideas so this has given me plenty to think about.

Seb

what’s your hair style routine?

Jonas

I’m wondering if this is an example of a new phase in menswear: leaving behind “correct” overdressing (double monk straps and suspenders), the experimentation and peacocking, and moving into a more refined phase of simplification through tonal dressing and well-fitted, interesting clothes. Or perhaps it’s just me getting older.

Sid

What a great write up!! Thanks for the style tips here Manish – will steal on the next weekend trip.

Michael from Connecticut

Here’s what I say….”Manish Puri for President”…

Daniel

Hey Manish,
I really like the RRL shirt, it’s lovely! Having picked it up from the pre-owned sale, I imagine it’s vintage or at least not a current product – do you know?

Hendy Drake

You’ve stolen my heart with the Nick Drake reference there Manish. Interestingly, I often try to persuade my wife (always unsuccessfully) that classic menswear isn’t just about the clobber; it can be a bit of a movement too; Good food, music, and a general appetite for a great craic usually play a part. Topic for a future article? (or not). Marry Christmas all x

Simon Crompton

For my part, I completely agree Hendy – mentioned it today in the end of the article on Scottish tweeds. The culture around clothing is a big part of both dressing well and appreciating it

Steven R

I realize this article is a few weeks old at this point but, using this as inspiration, I’ve started pulling together a similar capsule from my own wardrobe for an upcoming trip to NYC. I wound up with similar pieces to Manish for the trousers and shirting but kept feeling the urge, which I succumbed to, to go with brown woolens for the crew neck and jacket. So the Rubato crew neck in ‘Earth’ (from Simon’s ‘cold office’ article), and a (340/370g Merino) chocolate brown glen check jacket with a royal blue windowpane overlaid. I find, after Labor Day and before Memorial Day, one will rarely regret having some wool options in one’s suitcase in Manhattan.

Simon Crompton

Sounds great Steven

Daniel

Hi Manish,
Speaking of blue, I saw your instagram today where you poster a beautiful navy herringbone double-breasted raglan coat.

It looks gorgeous!? Where did you purchase it from?

Simon Crompton

Hey Daniel – just to answer on Manish’s behalf, that’s an old sample of our Permanent Style English Tweed coat, a navy that we never used. Maybe one for the future though

Edward

Hey,

I have a question for Manish if possible. I love the RRL shirt! As it’s not a current product, I was wondering if you possibly have the product code from somewhere on the shirt?