Denim and tweed: My Scotland travel capsule
I usually find packing for work trips quite straightforward. I know what I’ll be doing, in what kinds of places, and therefore what clothing will be appropriate. The challenge is smaller things like a summer jacket that will go with both tailoring and jeans - as with my Japan capsule.
But the recent ‘tweed rally’ I was invited to was a bit of an unknown. There would be a brief visit to a shop (Campbell’s, to be covered separately) but otherwise it was all driving round the countryside, presumably with a fair bit of grass, heather and (as it turned out) sand.
Would tailored flannels and loafers be too smart? The emphasis on tweed was obvious, but would smarter shirts or accessories really work?
In the end I settled on a capsule wardrobe that basically consisted of tweed and denim, and it worked out well. Other people were smarter generally, but the two materials felt sartorial enough while also being fitting to the landscape and activities.
As always with these capsules, I also found it interesting simply as a sartorial exercise - whether (and how) a capsule of just tweed and denim could work.
I took two tweed jackets, which ended up being alternated on the four days. They were:
- My Bryceland’s MTM in Permanent Style x Fox houndstooth tweed (above)
- A new Anthology bespoke jacket in biscuity tweed from Campbell’s of Beauly (below)
I then took three pairs of jeans. I would have been fine with two, and were this a tight packing situation I would have done that. But having three enabled more experimentation with more and less showy looks. The jeans were:
- Vintage nineties Levi’s 501s in black
- Bryceland’s 133S jeans in dark indigo
- Vintage seventies Levi’s 501s in light blue
Now, the first question for any efficient capsule is: do all the tops go with all the bottoms? The answer here was yes: both jackets go with all the trousers. So potentially six different combinations.
The most useful were probably the light blue and black - they were the easiest to combine, and you want two that are quite different to each other, so if I had had to drop one it would have been the indigo.
I then packed a cream sweater as a third top, as it would go with all three pairs of jeans and could be worn round the shoulders as an extra layer that stopped short of an overcoat.
Now, for the shirts I could have packed a few oxfords (blue, blue/white stripe, maybe pink) and they would have been easy and simple, great with everything.
But I liked the idea of taking heavy denim shirts - because it was a more interesting look (and let’s face it, you want to be a bit interesting when people are taking lots of photos of you) and because I felt those heavy denims would suit the rugged landscape.
So I packed three heavy denim shirts:
- Rubato black roper shirt
- Husbands blue western shirt
- Bryceland’s indigo sawtooth shirt
This meant on any given day I could do ‘matchy’ double denim (light blue shirt with light blue jeans, black with black, indigo with indigo) or something more subtle by not matching (light blue shirt with the black or indigo jeans).
For shoes, I packed both boots and loafers, trying to strike a balance between smart and rough (no calf leather, but no waxed suede either).
I also took a pair of velvet slippers. These were originally intended for evening wear (which I’ll get to in a second) but proved very useful for just being around the hotel, with some of the denims above. It’s something I might try and do again in the future - they’re easy, lightweight and instantly make you feel relaxed, without being obviously just house shoes.
The shoes were:
- Dark-brown suede Galway boots from Edward Green
- Color-8 cordovan full-strap loafers from Alden
- Black velvet slippers from Bowhill & Elliot
Then three belts to go with those - brown suede and black alligator from Rubato, and an old burgundy lizard from Ralph Lauren. Not ideal carrying three, but hey, these days it’s one of my few accessories.
In the photos above and below you can see the combinations I went with on three of the days. I ended up doing ‘matchy’ double denim on those days (blue on blue, black on black), with a slightly more subtle one (light blue shirt with black jeans) for the journey on the last day.
A few accessories gave me things to play with each day. They were:
- Grey and black PS Watch Caps
- A faded blue Ralph cap
- A very new blue National Arts Club cap (such a different look)
- A Lock & Co suede cap
- Charcoal and olive PS Arran scarves
The only coat I took was my Liverano ulster in PS Tweed. It didn’t go perfectly with everything, but it's good with jeans and most of the time it was buttoned up with a scarf anyway.
Luggage was my big check-in Rimowa (always required for trips like these and Pitti) and my old Filson briefcase. I never take a suit bag as I can fold all my tailoring into the suitcase without creating creases (video here).
Then the evening. Tuesday night was black tie, so for that I took my Bryceland’s Tuxedo Lounge Jacket, a pleated shirt from D’Avino, and my La Bowtique.
Were this a proper capsule, I could easily have worn one of the tweed jackets with a smart shirt and tailored trousers on the other two evenings. But given it was a menswear event I took my DB chalkstripe suit instead, and wore it with a black knit one night, the sawtooth shirt the other.
Below you can see the capsule laid out. There were a few last-minute changes:
- I decided not to take the waxed-suede boots (middle pair) and didn’t miss them. Fortunately it wasn't that rugged
- I panicked and put in a pair of charcoal flannels, but never wore them
- I replaced the cream shawl cardigan (top, middle) with a V-neck, as it was lighter and could go on the shoulders more easily
The Hermes silk scarf in the bottom left was also a nice option to have (so light, takes up no space), but I didn’t end up wearing it.
So the denim-and-tweed capsule worked out pretty well, and it’s something I think I’ll repeat in the future - maybe not with so many shirts and jeans, but certainly two of each.
The volume of clothes ended up being quite large given the dinner events, but I think there are still some quite useful travel-capsule tips here. And if I hadn’t been so efficient with some packing, the volume would probably have been larger still.
The second image below, by the way, is myself and Robb Report editor Paul Croughton. I include it as Paul also has a jacket in the PSxFox houndstooth, which readers might find useful to see.
Thank you very much to Jamie, Matt and John for organising the trip, and to the wonderful Torridon hotel for having us. I’ve been to a few places in Scotland for menswear (Borders, Harris, Edinburgh, Glasgow) but never this part of the Highlands, and it was absolutely stunning.
All photography: Jamie Ferguson and Lorenzo Sodi
I have no substantive comments here other than to say that the photos of the Scottish countryside look wonderful.
The choice of clothes looks quite close to by wardrobe. It’s broadly where I have settled as a default in this post-pandemic environment.
Hi Simon,
Nice outfits!
One question regarding black jeans , I’d like to know which shoe colors work? (Apart from black shoes).
I guess cordovan 8 is fine and what about dark brown suede? And tan suede? I own a pair of 501 in black but not faded and I wonder if dark brown suede would work.
Cheers,
Yes on black and colour 8. Dark brown suede if the brown is dark and jeans a little faded. Everything gets easier as they fade. Maybe give yours a couple of washes.
Tan is punchy, not a look I generally like unless the jeans are very faded so verging on grey
Hi Simon, whats your view on tan shoes in a more casual sense (so no tailoring)? like the tan n1 field boots? because i have black jeans (which are not much faded) and thought it would be a good idea to pair it with the tan field boots
Black is a little tricky with them I find, but as soon as they’re a bit washed it’s good, and they’re good with every other colour of jean. Much easier to wear that colour of leather casually than with tailoring
Thank you Simon as always!
Simon – what would your opinion be using something like the Alden LHS in snuff suede? I like the idea of the PS Harris Tweed combined with some mid-grey flannels and possibly Real McCoy workwear chinos. But I haven’t decided between snuff suede or Color 8. It seems the suede would be a better call, but now you have me wondering.
Thoughts?
Snuff suede as a colour would be a little harder to wear with tailoring – trousers darker with mid-grey flannels wouldn’t usually look right.
The shape of the LHS is a little casual as well, but with tailoring that is more casual, as you describe, or wider fits, you’d be fine
This is a splendid post.
I have bitter regrets that while I was actually attending a wedding in Beauly, staying in the hotel there, in 2005, I actually visited Campbells, still under the older management, and didn’t buy anything then which I now bitterly regret…BUT…really looking forward to that post when it comes up!
I may visit again one day.
I often read your blog posts, Simon, but have not previously commented. However, on this occasion your piece has led me to write as it totally resonates with me. I often travel to Scotland and always find it difficult to know exactly what to pack given the different temperatures and varying weathers. Your blend of outfits works perfectly against the backdrop of the wonderful Scottish scenery. I always find that heavy weight tweeds have the capacity to keep out the cold and yet cope with light rainfall too – totally the right gear for the Highlands! Thank you for this inspiring and helpful article.
Thanks David. Yes, exactly what they were made for!
It’s interesting actually, how much tweeds like the one in my Liverano coat match with the autumnal trees and heather. I’ve written that so many times before but only now did it seem so true
I agree. I travel to Scotland often and I almost always bring a tweed jacket. It is practical and perfect. It’s like a mini overcoat, and provides warmth against the blustery Scottish weather. It has pockets for glasses and gloves and a hat. I often wear it with a wool stocking cap, or a tweed newsboy. It looks sharp and can take a beating. There are other great cloths, but for my money nothing beats a good tweed.
Did you fly to Scotland?
I could never put everything on the checked in luggage for fear of something happening with it and not having a change of clothes for a day or two.
Yes. I guess that’s going to be a fear anywhere you go though?
It is. That’s why my carry on is one of those suit bags that folds into a weekender, with clothes for a couple days and even sometimes a pair of shoes.
When the checked in luggage is included and the carry on not, I take a light suit bag (literally the one you get from Suitsupply when you buy a suit or jacket) with a couple shirts, socks and underwear thrown in there as well, and call it “hand baggage”.
I’m biased as I live in Scotland, but I believe practically the only domestic flights worth taking in the UK are to Aberdeen or Inverness from London (Cornwall may be another exception). The plane and train journeys take a similar time from London to Edinburgh or Glasgow when you factor in check-in, getting into town etc however….. the train is unfortunately always more expensive (c.f. booking flights in advance). On the plus side you have zero luggage concerns and can take crossbows, chemicals and cartridges.
British Airway’s fares between London Heathrow and Scotland are ridiculously high. Easyjet is much cheaper but you have watch out for the extras such as checked baggage. Rail fares are cheaper especially when you book a month or so in advance. Following the collapse of Flybe, flights between London and Newquay are subsidised heavily by the taxpayer.
Oh how I love these pieces. The blend of that new biscuit tweed with the autumn colours is quite something.
Beautiful landscapes too.
The Liverano ulster is great. I am not a big fan of all that denim, neither of the caps, but apart from that – perhaps you should have given those suede boots a little brush before laying them on the bed 😉
Nice article. Does the cream cardigan work with dark indigo and black jeans? I’d worry that the contrast is too stark. What shirt would you recommend with those outfits? Seriously considering buying that Begg cardigan…
Yes it does. White with black is the only time it’s a bit high-contrast (and no colour in there at all). Cream is easier.
I’d wear a white oxford probably, or even a long-sleeve polo
Great, thanks! And I take it you’d recommend the Begg cardigan as you seem to be featuring it a lot lately? It looks beautiful. I recall that you weren’t wild about your other Begg cardigan b/c of the lack of sleeve ribbing, but looks like the Aspen cardigan includes that ribbing.
Yes it does, and the Aspen is wonderful
Sorry, one more question on this topic: Do you find that the Aspen works with smarter (e.g., grey flannel) trousers? I ask because it’s a bit bulkier as a heavy shawl cardigan, if anything the cable knit pattern adds to the bulk, and bulky knits don’t always work with tailored trousers. Probably helps that it’s a shawl cardigan though, which sort of resembles a tailored jacket. Plus cashmere is usually smart enough to work with tailored trousers. Anyway, curious for your thoughts on this and thanks again, as always.
It definitely does, yes. The cashmere looks very luxurious which helps
Great, thanks. I pulled the trigger on this one. Looking forward to basking in it for years to come. Thanks for the inspiration.
Great scenery. The colors are more beautiful than in summer.
Nice combinations. Though, it’s hard for me to relate to the wardrobe you took. I usually dress much more casually in situations like this and, to avoid taking shirts, would take turtlenecks and long-sleeved cashmere/wool polos instead of jackets.
Just a note: It may depend on the country, but at least in Germany and Austria, loafers are considered summer shoes. I recently wore a pair (dark-suede) to the office and got the comment that this does not look right in late autumn (my wife) and that I obviously can’t wait until it gets warm again (an office colleague).
Great piece and nice to see the championing of Scotland, wonderful place. With regards to your Galway boots, which last are they on – fairly narrow? Thanks
The 202, so not that narrow
I thought yours were on the 82 last based on this post: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2022/01/double-denim-in-new-anthology-tweed-jacket.html
You’re right, sorry, mine was the 82. I was getting confused as they switched the 202 recently
Key question though Simon is whether you preferred the Series 1 E-type to the XJS? Scotland simply amazing and for me, even more so on the west coast.
I’m not really a car guy, so I found it interesting trying all these different cars I didn’t know. My favourite was actually the Morgan, as it was new – vintage look, modern performance. Probably not my favourite aesthetically, but I’m not the kind of person that’s ever going to put up with the maintennance of a vintage car. My problem today is how samey all cars look
Hi Simon,
All outfits nicely put together without looking at all contrived. I particularly like the darker denim and houndstooth. Denim on denim generally looks far better when broken up by a different material, in my opinion. Although I am sure you can dig up some examples where it works without. One thing you always nail is working in the baseball cap.
I like the jumper over the jacket. I recently saw someone wearing in the same way over an M-65 jacket which looks nice too.
Thanks again for an interesting and informative article.
Have a good weekend.
Cheers Stephen. Yes you’re right, when something breaks up the double denim it helps a lot – these outfits are harder without the jacket for example.
Yes, sweaters over the shoulders are easier the more casual the pieces are. So easier over an M65 than a blazer, and with a sweatshirt more than a cashmere sweater
You and the man in the third from bottom picture with the matching jacket look very well dressed. I enjoyed reading this article.
Thank you Chris
If Manish is here, I’d love to know the details of his coat in the top photo!
It’s an old Grenfell x John Simons collab piece. He got it on Marrkt
Thanks for the info. I LOVE IT. It almost looks like a green solaro in the photo. I’m looking for a similar coat for over a jacket/suit that is more casual. I looked at coherence but the price is a hard pill to swallow. (Plus is a bit too short).
There are other brands ofc, like burberry, grenfell, private white vp also come to mind. But non are wider cut and longer in length, plus has long enough sleeves for me. I’m 6,2ft so I do need a longer coat.
If you have any recommendations let me know please:)
It’s reminiscent of a material Burberry used for car coats for many years also, slightly iridescent if I’m assessing correctly. If appealing these are occasionally available in Vestiare / Vinted at a premium to the beige, however I consistently, and uncharacteristically receive many positive comments on mine.
Simon – great article, thanks. May I please ask what size you took in Fanni Lemmermayer knitwear?
You had a black cardigan and I’m looking to acquire a similar single ply one
I don’t know I’m afraid, I just checked mine and it has no size label in it. They come up big though, they’re stretchy and big in the waist
Thanks v much for checking Simon.
Lennart – if the second hand market is an option I’d heartily suggest having a look at the older Burberry models I mention above. Mine is 50R and the hem sits just at knee level (I’m 6 foot and it’s about 110cm long), I would for for 50L or a 52L if I had my time again.
Great option, I do have an second-hand trenchcoat from Burberry pre 1999. The strange thing it’s a size 40r (50IT) but it fit’s like a 46 (54it).
It’s probably from the 80’s and was meant to be worn oversized, but it’s becoming comical. So that’s why I’m a bit hesitant. But I will have a look again and see if a 40R is being offered for sale. And really make sure the measurements fit me.
Simon/Jamie, at this point I’m going to have to ask you to drop the Lightroom presets! Totally love the color grading here haha
Great post. I’ve enjoyed very much the photos (both of the clothing and especially the landscape) from this trip that have appeared recently on IG via the accounts of various attendees. Simon, very interesting to hear what you packed but didn’t wind up wearing — that’s a calculus I always try to strike when packing, rarely with any success. Great to hear the thinking that informed your choices. Thanks as always!
I write this sat in a coffee shop wearing a charcoal arran, tweed jacket , black 501s, work boots, denim shirt and a barbour Beaufort.
The article resonates so well with readers because this is what men really wear (after you remove our work and exercise uniforms).
It’s classic for a reason.
What a splendid combination Peter!
Simon — if you were to pack for the same trip again. What would you have changed? Would you have packed the same footwear, or added a pair of walking boots of sorts.
No, as I said at the end I didn’t miss the lack of a walking boot or more rugged footwear option. But that was for this particular trip – we weren’t actually walking or hiking through the countryside at all. If we were, I certainly would have done.
The only other things I would have changed are the ones mentioned – no flannels, no Hermes scarf
Love these capsule articles.
May I ask what/who the cream sweater was? Cotton or wool? Crew neck?
Thank you!
It’s here Mike
Ohh I remember that one. Thank you!
I’ve been on the hunt for the right cream sweater for fall/winter. If memory serves you are also fond of the Anderson and Sheppard Shetlands, of which I believe you also had in cream. Is that right?
I haven’t tried any of their knitwear.
Yes I do. Frankly I haven’t worn that one that much since I bought it, but I think that’s because I don’t wear shetlands too much – more as an unusual alternative rather than something core
Oh, that is interesting. I thought you were commonly wearing Shetlands during winter.
If I may ask, what do you find yourself reaching for, instead?
A lambswool like the Rubato ones, or a cashmere like the PS Cashmere Rugby
Oh I see. That’s interesting, thank you!
I enjoyed reading this, thanks. Let me suggest one item that might have “topped off” the accessory list: a Harris Tweed watch band. I happen to get mine from https://vario.sg/collections/harris-tweed-strap, but they’re available from a number of sources. Lovely photos, too, thanks again.
To be honest I don’t that looks very nice Skip, sorry!
regarding the velvet slipper for Black Tie AND Hotel; would the Sagans in your view be as versatile or too elegant for the day? I am thinking of either the plain ones or the ones with the little black leather tie on top.. in their black-tie-collection
No they would have worked well too. Actually easier to wear – not quite as likely to draw attention as velvet. The velvet is a little nicer for black tie though
I meat those:
https://baudoinlange.com/products/sagan-classic-bow-in-midnight-navy-velvet?variant=44023526621422
or
https://baudoinlange.com/products/sagan-classic-plain-in-black-velvet?variant=31951626666061
Ah, sorry. Yes very nice in that case
I am hesitating between the two; for Black Tie I find the midnight blue with the little leather tie better; but your post has made me think about using them also exactly for what you described in the hotel… for which the plain black ones seem to be better – would you agree?
If you think you would use them like that, then yes I do
that houdstooth is money
The photos of the Scottish landscape are beautiful but I thought I might just comment that the one photo where you’ve laid everything out is just perfect for this article and sums it up fantastically. I know you usually do this shot in your capsule articles, but I thought I’d specifically mention this in commendation.
Cheers, that is good to know and I’ll always make sure to do that
A great capsule and I had a great time experiencing the trip second hand through the travel group’s posts! A question on your choice of boot. Would the EG Cranleigh have worked just as well as the Galway given the denim and rural atmosphere? I’m currently trying to decide between the two and am interested in your perspective on the two models.
The Cranleigh is more casual – it would have been very useful, but not so good with tailoring. If I wasn’t wearing tailoring I certainly would have brought them
Thanks for sharing. I suppose the width of the Cranleigh last doesn’t lend itself well tailoring in most, if not all, scenarios. Do you find that the Galway translates to both tailoring and casual or do each boot play their very specific roles in a wardrobe?
I wouldn’t say it’s the last of the Cranleigh, more the style and chunky welt. But yes the Galway can do both, but it will never be quite as casual as the Cranleigh so they are doing different jobs in that regard
I’ve personally have had a hard time conceptualising Galways. Would you say they basically are cowboy boot equivalent for europens?
I probably don’t know enough about how cowboy boots are worn by people in areas where they are common. My instinct is no they’re not
Great photograph of you and Manish at the top, Simon. At least, I think it is Manish!
I like all of your choices, but would like to suggest an alternative to taking three pairs of jeans: How about a pair of heavy-weight khakis instead of one of those pairs of jeans, say 10 oz., in either the basic khaki colour (or even a military olive drab)? Basic khakis are some of the most versatile pairs of trousers I can think of, and its neutral quality enables it to go with almost all kinds of jackets, especially tweed jackets. They are also great with navy and maroon blazers. Just a suggestion.
Did you consider taking a Harris Tweed jacket? Or would that having been too much like taking coal to Newcastle? LOL.
Hey Peter,
Khakis would have been very versatile, you’re right. The issue is I don’t really like them with jackets most of the time. I find it tends to look too old-fashioned on me – I prefer jeans.
No, Harris Tweed would have been spot on – my coat there is Harris Tweed
Wonderful pictures that let one understand where the tweed colors come from, and reminds me of how drinks/beverages fit their origin’s landscape. The windy, humid Scottish highlands do kind of point to a dram of whisky, while e.g. Tuscany marries so well with their wines…
I am, same as a previous commentator, surprised that no cashmere rugby polo made the list. When you get to the hotel and switch into the velvet slippers for example. Or did you see more benefits in using the jackets because of formality, given the jeans were already siftening your formality?
Also, which denim shirt is the one in the 7th picture (you leaning against the counter at Campbell’s)? What a lovely outfit with the cordovan loafers. I have a similar jacket and the same alden’s a very similar combination is a new favorite, very much inspired by you.
Thanks Carl.
Yes a cashmere rugby would have been very nice, but I only had room for one piece of knitwear unfortunately, given how much tailoring there was to bring. In a regular capsule I would probably only have had one or two jackets, and at least one more knit – perhaps a cashmere rugby and a shawl collar. The shawl would have made a great jacket alternate.
That denim shirt is a Brycelands sawtooth. I bought it second-hand though and it has faded quite a bit – not really the same colour as the jeans I’m wearing anymore, more of a mid-blue
Great choice of clothes Simon – top quality!
My son is the chef at The Torridon and he hopes you enjoyed the food – and whisky! The Jag is still in the hotel car park – awaiting repair. Can I have it?
Amazing! The food was really excellent Cliff, very impressive. Please send my congratulations to your son
Sadly, the Jag is not in my power to give. I wish it was
No corduroy trousers for you, Simon? In my eyes those jeans (steel & coal) devalue your tactile tweed jackets (fireside, woods, peat & whiskey).
I got the same Grenfell coat that Manish is wearing. I believe it was 300 quid at J. Simons back then. It’s not as water repellent as I had hoped, also the fabric is stiff and flowing at the same time, whick makes the coat slide off my shoulders all the time. No idea where Grenfell stands in the rainwear market today. Has it just become a brand or is the fabric really that special?
Beautiful pictures indeed, thank you.
Grenfell are still pretty good. I don’t own anything but they’ve done some good pieces in recent years.
Yes, cord would have been nice, but I tend not to like it so much for hardwearing things like this
hi Simon
Are you saying those jeans are more hardwearing than, say, heavy cords from Cordings?
Jut as an aside, I watch All creatures Great and Small from time to time.
They often show one of the characters with tweeds and cavalry twills. What is your view of their practicality in this situation? Jeans are washable of course.
I wouldn’t say jeans are harder wearing, but I like the way they age with wear much more than cords, which just tend to go bare and wear down.
Both tweeds and cav twills would be practical in this situation, but I wouldn’t like the style as much
Simon, when choosing odd trousers to wear with a tailored jacket, I understand that tailored trousers are the most natural combination, being comparably smart / formal. What makes jeans (the least formal option) seem to work so well with a tweed jacket, perhaps even better than smart chinos, which to my eye are a closer match in terms of formality?
I think it’s about different styles and their associations, rather than just the spectrum of formality. Chinos are tricky with tailoring, for me at least, because they can have that old-mannish style so easily. Jeans, on the other hand, are certainly casual but they are the most everyday and ordinary trouser by a long way culturally, so if a jacket can work with them it will always be an easy combination
Steering clear of “old-mannish” styles is something you’ve mentioned before. I’m trying to understand why chinos & tailoring come across this way, but it is not obvious to me. Their connotations seem more ivy than fuddy. Can you please post an image to help me understand how chinos with tailoring can look “old-mannish”, and what you mean by that? I’m aiming to dress appropriately for my age, with dignity and style, rather than trying to look younger than my years (approaching 50). Thank you for your advice, I have learned a great deal from reading your blog.
I can try and do something separately Lawrence, but I guess bear in mind that at least in some parts of the world, Ivy clothing can seem old-fashioned in that way as well – and that there’s a difference between Ivy in tailoring and Ivy when it comes to something like sportswear
Both jackets are cool. Could the sleeve width on the Brycelands be a touch slimmer?
It could, but I wouldn’t prefer it. It fits with the style
Simon, Is there such a thing as raglan blazer? I imagine it could be a nice casual piece. On initial thought, it does seem that by nature a jacket is got to be more fitted than a coat. And, raglan shoulder would not make sense for a jacket. What would you say?
Yes, a raglan would be better on a more casual, square jacket or coat probably, rather than a tailored blazer
The outfits are great, Simon. I often wear tweed with denim (jeans and shirt), albeit mostly in town. Although they have different origins, they compliment each other perfectly.
From a practical point, I’m not sure jeans are great in rainy weather though. Cotton takes a lot of time to dry and it loses its insulation when wet. A pair of tweed trousers or (God forbid) some technical fabric could insure against such weather.
What is the cloth swatch uses in that beautiful Beauly jacket?
I don’t know any reference for it I’m afraid, but if you ask Campbell’s they can tell you or supply it
Here is the link to that cloth sample for the benefit of others.
It is house tweed 82053 from Campbell’s of Beauly.
Thank you!
Simon the Anthology jacket appears to have swelled edges/lapels – is this correct? Are swelled edges./lapels on sports coats typical on most modern Savile Row sports jackets or rare/unusual? Is it your prefererred look or do you prefer the more standard edges/lapels as found on most ready to wear sports jackets/ suit jackets and of course the other sports jacket in this article.Thank you.
Yes it does. They’re less common on Savile Row jackets, though I do like them. Perhaps usually less pronounced than this, but often I go with it as part of the style of the maker – part of the intended character
Simon, off topic but just put one of my PS tapered t shirts on and it suddenly hit me! A long sleeved version please…Exactly the same as the current model, just with long sleeves. Now tell me that’s not a brilliant idea…
We’ve actually been trying to sample that exact thing for about a year Richard. Still haven’t got it yet though!
I’ll grab a couple! White and gray!
This post is a nice update to one from ages ago with what I consider to be one of the more “iconic” photos from the site (https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/11/harris-tweed-jacket-and-jeans.html) [Aside: it would be interesting to do a ‘Top 10’ images sometime; a fun reader activity perhaps]
Personal preference but I like the bluer looks to the blacker looks, but that’s what variety’s about.
As I ease into my autumn wardrobe, I’ve been moving away from chinos and into cords. I tend not to wear jeans as often but I’ll be remedying this soon. But thanks to this and other sites, I’ve come to enjoy denim/chambray shirt options with tweed jackets rather than my usual oxford. I find I also prefer stripes to plain oxfords, particularly with no tie, as they have more visual interest. This discussion serves as a nice illustration as to why.
Curious question… If you could have only one indigo denim shirt.. bryclelands or rubato?
Probably Brycelands, but it depends what you want – the Brycelands one is more unusual, perhaps more special in that way, but not as easy for everyone to wear all the time
Thank you! Since i dont plan on having more than one indigo denim shirt, ill pick brycelands… i could have snapped up rubato for 190£ but ive allways been sorry when i dont follow your advice!
Sharp looks, Simon. Did you find the Rubato westerner fits true to size compared to their other shirts? I have a great chambray from Rubato that fits a bit slimmer than the published measurements, and have considered sizing up for the stiffer denim. Thanks.
I would say so, yes
Simon therefore are swelled edges on the lapels of a bespoke sports coat more often found on Italian/European made items as oppososed to British made?
In general, yes. Particularly on Neapolitan
Hi simon is there any difference in look between a merino wool crewneck and cottton crewneck? I have neither in long sleeve form and planning to get one to be worn under sportscoats and denim jackets with casual wider legged bottoms. I know merino wool is warmer but wouls it look smarter (something which i dont really need) or are both fine actually
It depends more on the thickness of the yarn and knit Shem. If you look at someone like Smedley, their fine cottons and merinos won’t look that different, but when you get into chunkier ones there is more of a difference
Thanks simon on that note how do you usually sizr your knitwear? Do you size down or takr usual sizr given that knit has quite abit of stretch
Knits in general? There’s no consistency, it depends entirely on the brand and how they do their sizes
What about putting on some outfits that does not work, outfits you don’t like, to places, and showcasing and explaining why, even though a lesser eye would think otherwise
Just a small exercise
It’s a good point, I would like to find a good way to show outfits that don’t work in that way. I’m never sure about showing deliberately bad outfits, but I have done posts in the past about mistakes I have made and what I would do differently now
Curious why you went for a besom pocket instead of a patch pocket on one of the jackets? Is the cloth casual enough so you could do the besom pocket?
It’s actually a flap pocket but I’m just tucking in the flaps for a cleaner look.
And yes, the cloth is casual enough that I don’t need the patches to make it more casual
Great pics
Hello Simon, just wondering if you find the dark brown suede that Edward Green uses to be dark enough for black jeans? I see you wear your Galway’s here, so I am guessing you are ok with it. This is my main concern with black jeans – that my extensive number of dark brown suede shoes will not work with them!
On a related note, I had an appointment yesterday with The Anthology at their London trunk show, and have commissioned your Fox houndstooth for a jacket. First time seeing the fabric in person, and I really liked it.
Cheers,
John
Nice, lovely to hear John.
The brown of Edward Green is often a little light, but obviously it helps when jeans are more washed (as mine are here). I wouldn’t worry about it, you can just wash yours more to get them a little lighter if you need too
I was just wondering if there’s any particular reason you don’t wear the PS Harris Tweed jacket anymore?
It just became too small for me unfortunately – that combination of my body changing a bit and my preference changing to a slightly roomier fit, and the tailor always cutting quite close
I find the black jeans & dark shirt look on the beach in one of the first images to not be appropriate for the setting. Its far to slick/ urban for the beach.
Nice pics Simon, which camera and lens do you use ?
As noted at the end David, they’re not my shots, you’d have to ask Jamie or Lorenzo
Me gusta.
Great pictures of the tweed jackets.
Would Manish mind saying where he bought his coat (in the top picture)? I’ve been looking for something similar but found it surprisingly hard (mostly to get the length).
Have a look in the comments higher up John – it’s already answered
Thank you. Have found it – hadn’t thought to read the 125 comments on the off chance my question was answered! But glad to find another reader who also likes the coat – and also to find that reader also prefers cords with tweed to jeans…
Yes, that is the disadvantage of popular articles! I tend to do searches on the page to look.
Unfortunately if I answered everyone’s questions multiple times, the problem would only get worse!
Given Manish dresses so well, you should consider just including a list of everything he’s wearing within the main article!
(I suspect Manish didn’t keep to the jeans theme – is that a fair guess? Are they flannels he’s wearing? I also like flannel with tweed – but given I often get muddy when I’m wearing tweed and you can’t bung flannel in the wash (though my wife has turned one of my jumpers into flannel in the wash – the shrunken jumper now fits her very well and she wears it a lot…) I tend not to get the chance to wear them together much – cords are much easier – brush the tweed, wash the cords. But when you’re actually wearing them in the damp and mud, both cords and flannel perform much better than water soaking denim – which is great for friction-resistance on horseback in Ohio but (i) awful for damp old Blighty and (ii) is usually cut as if you’re on a horse – straight sides rather than straight front – and so only flattering if you’re cosplaying Jeremy Clarkson – who at least has to split his legs when he sits on a tractor. )
I understand the trade-off. I actually did a search for ‘Manish’ when I saw the picture. But, of course, the comments weren’t expanded when I did that search – and by the time I’d decided I liked the coat enough to go to the comments I didn’t think to redo the search.
Thanks Yes, Manish stuck more to flannels
Question about your Tweed Blazer sizings. There appear to be several schools of thought in terms of fit.
1. Traditional trim blazer fit close to the body.
2. A more generous fit for layering.
Your preference appears to be a trimmer line. Would be fair to say that?
I’m not sure a short description like that is that helpful to be honest – it could be taken lots of different ways. Particularly as I’d say no, I would err more towards number 2 these days.
Simon – just wondering what else other than black jeans you could pair with the black roper shirt? Indigo denim?
Yes, that would be nice. Also dark grey trousers like flannels, and dark browns too (flannels, cords, chinos)
Simon – what brand/model are those wax suede Chelsea boots that you ended up not bringing?
Edward Green – covered here
Great article, very nice read and great pictures.
One question pls Simon, any idea which is the fabric of Manish’s jacket, in the top picture? I have been looking for a similar houndstooth/ gun club.
Many thanks.
It’s Jamie’s tweed – JKF_Man. From the Anthology here. It is a really nice combination
Thanks Simon. I assume it is not available to purchase by the metre?
I don’t believe so, no
Hi Simon. Appreciate you’ve answered questions on the Galways to date so please excuse another. Are yours the Mink variant, as opposed to the darker espresso suede; they look darker in your photographs than I’d have expected the mink to look, in a positive way. Many thanks.
They are mink, yes
Obliged.
Where is the cap from in your first photo? Great write up. Thanks.
Lock & Co – they don’t sell it any more, but we are looking at bringing it back with them
Did you suggest wearing a tweed jacket in the evening, to dinner? That’s not really on – I know an American who was once invited by a friend of his to dine in halls at one of the Cambridge colleges. He wore a smart tweed jacket, and was declined entry.
I wouldn’t wear a tweed jacket to dine in my Oxford college either, but that’s not usually where I’m having dinner!
It’s very much a question of who, what and where Tim. Most of the time when I’m having dinner with people no one is wearing a jacket at all