Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

Friday, January 5th 2018
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I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others.

Liverano is very expensive, however, and it was only last year that I therefore decided to take the plunge - foregoing my normal indulgence of one piece of Loro Piana clothing a year in penance.

The Liverano ulster is, I think, a perfect demonstration of how important design is to a good coat.

Little changes in the width of the collar or angle of the lapel are magnified on a coat, where everything is bigger than a jacket.

Get these things right, therefore, and the result is a sweeping, plunging masterpiece. Get them wrong and the scale feels a little wasted.

Perhaps the most important point on a coat’s design is the gorge - the point where the collar meets the lapel.

It is one of the first things that strikes the eye, and its size, openness and angle determine the visual effect of the chest and shoulders.

Most double-breasted coats have a peak lapel that shoots upward. Ulsters in general tend to be flatter, and often point downwards.

(This has the practical effect of being able to sit easily under the chin when the collar is up.)

I think the angle on the Liverano is perfect: slightly downwards but high, with a long pointed collar running alongside it.

Almost as important but much subtler, however, is the depth of the collar. 

The height of the collar at the back on this Liverano is 6.5cm. By comparison, my Edward Sexton coat is 6cm, my Cifonelli 5.5cm, and topcoats such as the green Vergallo or navy Ettore de Cesare only 4.5cm.

It’s not uncommon for ulsters to have large collars, and of course the depth varies a little with the proportions of the wearer.

But you can see why, in the image above, that collar seems to frame the head so much more than my other coats.

This is particularly important for me given I tend to wear collars up a lot.

The rest of the coat is fairly straightforward, but the depth and angle of the turnback cuff (above) is nice.

I also rather like the pocket flap that is curved on the front edge and straight on the back.

The fit is absolutely superb, as you would expect from Liverano.

Perfect lines through the waist, perfect pitch of the sleeve, perfectly flush around the back of the neck.

The image of the back of the coat, below, is rather distorted by the wind we had the day of shooting (the central vent is more closed).

But one thing it does show accurately is that Antonio likes a lot of room in the back of the coat.

There are big folds either side of my back, above and below the belt. (Actual folds that can move, by the way, not sewn in.)

I can completely understand why some people wouldn’t like that, but for me it creates a look that feels very natural and masculine. The whole upper body feels bigger, and the waist smaller in proportion.

The cloth, by the way, is the same Harris tweed from Holland & Sherry (892020) that I used for my much-loved coat from Elia Caliendo.

This is much lighter than Liverano (or any tailor) would normally use for a coat, but I love the crayon-set colours of the tweed, and it’s wonderful at this scale.

I’ve also found, wearing it so far, that it hangs well despite its lightness, perhaps because the tweed is so tough and compact.

Style points like these and consistency of output are the key selling points for Liverano bespoke.

It's more expensive than almost all other tailor, without all the hand detailing that helps justify price at the Parisians, for example.

But the style works so well, and I know so many people that love Liverano precisely for this style and for its consistently excellent output.

In fact the style point is a reason to mention the Liverano ready-to-wear.

It’s constantly expanding, and there are ulster coats of the same design available in the shop from €3400 (very good make, hand cut and fully canvassed, but not hand padded). 

Liverano & Liverano bespoke starts at €5730. This ulster coat cost €8650.

In the pictures I am also wearing:

  • Permanent Style watch cap (available soon)
  • Wispy scarf, Begg & Co
  • Bespoke wool trousers, Elia Caliendo in Holland & Sherry ‘Pardessus’ cloth
  • Bespoke cap-toe shoes, Cleverley
  • Made-to-measure cashmere jacket, Saman Amel (review coming soon)
  • Bespoke spread-collar shirt, Luca Avitabile
  • Cashmere tie, Ralph Lauren

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man (pictured below) except numbers 4, 8 and 11, Milad Abedi @milad_abedi (pictured above).

Milad was visiting Jamie for the day and came with us - I don't normally have two photographers! 

Look, a bird!