Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

Friday, January 5th 2018
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I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others.

Liverano is very expensive, however, and it was only last year that I therefore decided to take the plunge - foregoing my normal indulgence of one piece of Loro Piana clothing a year in penance.

The Liverano ulster is, I think, a perfect demonstration of how important design is to a good coat.

Little changes in the width of the collar or angle of the lapel are magnified on a coat, where everything is bigger than a jacket.

Get these things right, therefore, and the result is a sweeping, plunging masterpiece. Get them wrong and the scale feels a little wasted.

Perhaps the most important point on a coat’s design is the gorge - the point where the collar meets the lapel.

It is one of the first things that strikes the eye, and its size, openness and angle determine the visual effect of the chest and shoulders.

Most double-breasted coats have a peak lapel that shoots upward. Ulsters in general tend to be flatter, and often point downwards.

(This has the practical effect of being able to sit easily under the chin when the collar is up.)

I think the angle on the Liverano is perfect: slightly downwards but high, with a long pointed collar running alongside it.

Almost as important but much subtler, however, is the depth of the collar. 

The height of the collar at the back on this Liverano is 6.5cm. By comparison, my Edward Sexton coat is 6cm, my Cifonelli 5.5cm, and topcoats such as the green Vergallo or navy Ettore de Cesare only 4.5cm.

It’s not uncommon for ulsters to have large collars, and of course the depth varies a little with the proportions of the wearer.

But you can see why, in the image above, that collar seems to frame the head so much more than my other coats.

This is particularly important for me given I tend to wear collars up a lot.

The rest of the coat is fairly straightforward, but the depth and angle of the turnback cuff (above) is nice.

I also rather like the pocket flap that is curved on the front edge and straight on the back.

The fit is absolutely superb, as you would expect from Liverano.

Perfect lines through the waist, perfect pitch of the sleeve, perfectly flush around the back of the neck.

The image of the back of the coat, below, is rather distorted by the wind we had the day of shooting (the central vent is more closed).

But one thing it does show accurately is that Antonio likes a lot of room in the back of the coat.

There are big folds either side of my back, above and below the belt. (Actual folds that can move, by the way, not sewn in.)

I can completely understand why some people wouldn’t like that, but for me it creates a look that feels very natural and masculine. The whole upper body feels bigger, and the waist smaller in proportion.

The cloth, by the way, is the same Harris tweed from Holland & Sherry (892020) that I used for my much-loved coat from Elia Caliendo.

This is much lighter than Liverano (or any tailor) would normally use for a coat, but I love the crayon-set colours of the tweed, and it’s wonderful at this scale.

I’ve also found, wearing it so far, that it hangs well despite its lightness, perhaps because the tweed is so tough and compact.

Style points like these and consistency of output are the key selling points for Liverano bespoke.

It's more expensive than almost all other tailor, without all the hand detailing that helps justify price at the Parisians, for example.

But the style works so well, and I know so many people that love Liverano precisely for this style and for its consistently excellent output.

In fact the style point is a reason to mention the Liverano ready-to-wear.

It’s constantly expanding, and there are ulster coats of the same design available in the shop from €3400 (very good make, hand cut and fully canvassed, but not hand padded). 

Liverano & Liverano bespoke starts at €5730. This ulster coat cost €8650.

In the pictures I am also wearing:

  • Permanent Style watch cap (available soon)
  • Wispy scarf, Begg & Co
  • Bespoke wool trousers, Elia Caliendo in Holland & Sherry ‘Pardessus’ cloth
  • Bespoke cap-toe shoes, Cleverley
  • Made-to-measure cashmere jacket, Saman Amel (review coming soon)
  • Bespoke spread-collar shirt, Luca Avitabile
  • Cashmere tie, Ralph Lauren

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man (pictured below) except numbers 4, 8 and 11, Milad Abedi @milad_abedi (pictured above).

Milad was visiting Jamie for the day and came with us - I don't normally have two photographers! 

Look, a bird!

 

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Jason

I was just praising Liverano under your awards post yesterday and today you have given us another example of why it is such a great tailoring house. The coat looks wonderful without needing any extraneous or gimmicky design features. Bravo!

Joseph

At this point in your journey, two photographers may be entirely understandable (and well-deserved!)

Liverano make pieces with so much character, this lovely overcoat being no exception. Congratulations on this new cold weather companion, Simon.

Anonymous

Hi Simon, for € 8.650 you could get 3-4 bespoke coats e.g. from top-notch Neapolitan tailors. Is this Liverano coat so much better to justify the price premium?

Anonymous

I love the collar and lapels and its look from the front. However, to my eye the baggy back makes it look like the coat is too big for you. Its saving grace is that very few would ever guess that it cost €8650!

Gus

Punchy and superb. At that price point, however, I would have opted for a weightier fabric. Also, surprised that your inclination towards a purchase was reinforced by seeing it on the rather diminutive Jeff Hilliard.

Don Ferrando

That is the most beautiful overcoat I have seen in a long time!
Congratlulations!

JB

While the price point is far beyond what I’ll ever be able to afford, that coat is an absolute work of art and an inspiration. Congrats.

tdang93

Truly breathtaking, Simon!

If you don’t mind me asking, why is this coat so much more expensive than Liverano’s regular bespoke offering? Is it the materials, because I’m under the impression that overcoats usually cost the same as a 2 piece suit or are only slightly more pricey?

Matt

If I were feeling cynical I’d suggest that it’s because a customer is less likely to order multiple coats, or order re-order further coats the following year, so I suspect there’s an element of price gouging going on here.

Daniel

Well isn’t that an absolutely fantastic coat… the fabric, the style, the fit! Just great. Treat yourself!

I particularly like what the back belt does for the overall fit together with the extra fabric in the back. It gives the coat a great silhouette and must surely add a bit of warmth as well even if this fabric is a bit lighter?

Also, a newbie question – what’s the defining quality or design element for an ulster coat?

Matt

I’ve had a jacket made up in that tweed – thanks for putting me onto it.

Lovely coat but I hope it comes with a removable colostomy bag which can be worn when you’re next credit card bill comes through!

Anonymous

Beautiful coat in every degree except perhaps the buttons. There is something I don’t like, but I can’t put my finger on it. Is it the size, or the colour perhaps?

And of course the price point is a touch silly………..

Adam Jones

I actually think this is an important point. I am far from being a wealthy 6 figure salary city worker but bespoke can become affordable (maybe not always a coat with a price like this !) if you plan carefully. Say you spend 6 months before commission saving up for the deposit whilst you browse cloth and think about design, style – pick a tailor etc. Then provided its not rushed you can be looking at 5-6 months before delivery, maybe more depending on the tailor or your own schedule. Giving you time to pay/ save the remainder.

Ian A

Depends how many wearings you get from such a purchase?

Adam Jones

Ian, yes very true.. I only see the value in bespoke (personally) if I am going to get a lot of wear out of it. I would never have evening wear made for example as in 33 years I have worn such attire once. I decent quality RTW will suit me for now. A navy coat that I can wear half the year with everything is worth the additional saving and expense. Cost per wear and longevity make it a much more practical purchase. – This is all of course until I am in a financial position to indulge !

Paul F

Their prices have really increased since 2010. Their partnership with the Armoury has tremendously helped in bringing them to the stratosphere. But these prices are seriously very high.
I was considering giving them a try but that became too unreasonable.

That doesn’t change the fact that the coat is amazing and the fabric, albeit light, is lovey

Timofey

You can go to Prato near Firenze to sartoria Francesco guida and order absolutely the same thing for 1/3 of liverano’s price (Francesco was a head cutter at liverano for many years and very many staff of liverano was actually made by him).. cheers

Anonymous

Hey there. Is this information confirmed?

Most, if not all, the info on the internet about L&L give the impression that S. Antonio has been the head cutter of the house since forever.

I really like the L&L aesthetic, but the price is way out of my reach. So if I can get it elsewhere for a fraction . . .

Anonymous

Absolutely confirmed. I personally visit Prato to see this tailor

H

A wonderful, if ludicrously expensive, piece for us to lust over. That H&S tweed is my favourite fabric on the blog – I hope its still in production by the time I get around to commissioning a jacket in it. Unfortunately at this stage in wardrobe building I have to prioritise more boring business suits.

This may be a stupid question, but I’m struggling a little to work out what the difference is between an Ulster Coat and a Polo Coat – are they just two terms for essentially the same thing?

H

Thanks, as always, for the detailed reply. So (for purely academic purposes) Prince Charles’ vicuna coat from Steven Hitchcock isn’t strictly speaking a polo coat – because it has flap not patch pockets, and as far as I can tell no obvious pick stitching or swelled edges?

For a substantially cheaper RTW alternative to your Liverano ulster, would you recommend the Rubinacci x The Rake Casentino? I know you don’t normally comment at that price range but I saw you wearing it on Instagram a month or so ago and I think I saw it in the pop-up too…

PS. It occurred to me while checking for photos that at some stage in Prince Charles’s 20-odd years of owning his coat it seems to have acquired a velvet collar, presumably to hide the wear & tear. What an example of Permanent Style values!!

Ondřej Ručka

A very beautiful piece indeed, but is a value of a small new car that you wear with it.

Fred

Beautiful coat. Several years ago Graham Browne made me an ulster coast with bottons inside for me to attach/dis-attach the (removable) wool winter lining from my Burberry raincoat. This way, I can wear it ‘light’ or ‘heavy’, depending on the weather. A rather good trick, methinks, which works rather well.

Burt

Thank you for this review 🙂
Could you elaborate on how and where you are going to use this coat, Simon?
The DB design is rather formal, but the cloth is not. I’m having difficulty in seeing this in the city with a suit underneath, but it’s not intended for a walk in the countryside either, is it?
Also, the helmet like beanie does not seem to work 100% here, does not do the wonderful coat right.

Anonymous

Simon

FFS.

Nobody with even the slightest passing idea would wear cotton trousers with an autumn/ winter outfit. Got to call you out here; another example of you not really knowing your subject that well……..

Go to a cool/cold climate country and they will laugh at cotton, leading you politely to wool as a way of keeping the cold at bay.

Keep learning.

Anonymous

Perhaps you should be clearer; corduroy and moleskin, for example, which would suit perfectly the rest of the outfit.

Cotton itself suggests the lightweight fabric used for eg chinos, which of course would not.

Joseph

Rather condescending, this anonymous reader.

For the record, cotton corduroys can be particularly resistant to the cold. As can any heavy cotton with a sufficiently tight weave, paired with the right overcoat.

Anonymous

Dear Joseph

Not condescending, but knowledgable.

Wear cotton in a cold climate and see what happens if it gets slightly damp.

Joseph

No, maybe not fully condescending, but veering dangerously close. In any case, I’ll stop here with regards to commenting on your intended tone. Sorry if I got personal.

As to cotton getting wet, that’s what all the other cold weather precautions are for. They might not keep you absolutely dry a hundred percent of the time, but wearing enough layers, donning an overcoat and generally doing your best to avoid getting wet must make a crucial difference.

I think we’re all in agreement, though, that being cold is just a bummer. I pray for everyone’s safety and good fortune against the elements (wherever you may be in the world.)

JB

I live in Sweden and I’ve worn cotton all year round my entire life without issues. In the modern office world it’s arguably more comfortable than a heavy flannel due to regulated indoor temperature.

BespokeNYC

Wow. Just wow. Serious coat envy! But that price… also, wow! How does it compare to other Florentine makers like Sartorial Vestrucci?

I do like the idea of the lighter fabric in an overcoat though. I’ve often felt thicker fabrics end up looking rather bulky when buttoned up and paired with a thick scarf (i.e. when it gets really cold). And when they start making up new names for the weather like “polar vortex” and “bomb cyclone” I just go for my Norwegian Rain anyway. Will definitely be interesting to hear about this one after a year or so of use.

Don Ferrando

Talking about Florence: are you planning on getting something made from Sartoria Seminara?

BespokeNYC

Fair enough on the point about Florence. I was trying to think of other Italian makers with the same level of quality. You’ve mentioned in the past that it’s not really a focus for Neapolitan tailors. Are they any others with a similar soft style?

Niko

Oh my what a wonderful overcoat. DB suits your frame perfectly. Liverano makes so beautiful garments but the prices are also quite eyewatering. I really like that you added the price in your article and would love to see prices in the future articles. Btw, thank you for the amazing website. I have learned so much by reading your articles. All the best from Finland!

Anonymous

Beautiful coat, obscene price. I find it very hard to see any justicfaction for spending that much on a single item of clothing especially at a time when inequality is on the increase. Seems a tad distasteful to me.

Daniel

I can see your point, but honestly if Simon can afford it then it should be more justifiable to spend that kind of money on a product made by people being paid a good wage, with good working conditions and made from fabric that has also been produced in a quality way, than compared to buying something made in Bangladesh or Burma.

It’s definitely a luxury item. But battling inequality is something we should do in systemic reform not by individual choices of purchase.

Anonymous

I’d like to be clear that I am not trying to say what anyone should or should not spend their money on. Nor am I suggesting that by not spending such sums that somehow the issues of inequality would be lessend. I just find, personally, that there comes a point where the price of something is excessive regardless or how fine the material or laborious the make. There is a tipping point where I might admire someone’s clothing or outfit which can swing, leading to that person occupying a lesser standing In my mind due to their outward display of wealth (I am not saying that this is the case here but it certainly feels like it’s heading that way) I personally see this as something, although less obviously garish, on a par with overly designed watches or fur coats that seem to exist purely for the aim of being expensive or being over the top ‘luxury’. For the same reason I don’t need diamonds on my watch I don’t need to spend this much on a single item of clothing.

Simon, I believe this is one of the more expensive items featured on this site and I am sure you appreciate where I am coming from, although our thresholds may differ? I would be interested to hear a what point you would consider something, however appealing, to be unjustifiably expensive?

Don Ferrando

There is slight difference: cars, watches, houses are tradable. A bespoke coat is not.
My personal view at the repeating price discussion on PS is, if one likes an object so much that he is willingly to pay very much money on it he should do it. It is his personal decision. If there are enough people to buy why should the craftsman not ask the price.
Although I like that coat very much I would not commission one at Liverano but go to my tailor who’s work I like very much and spent less.
But I would not complain about Liverano’s pricing.

M

@Daniel: Agree with you up to the last sentence. Systemic reform won’t come about without strong pressure from society. And society is a big bunch of individuals. Most of us pay attention to and learn from the behavior of our neighbors. Your choice matters.

Ken

I don’t see what increasing inequality has to do with the cost. These kind of ‘there’s no justification/it’s distasteful’ type comments don’t really make sense to me. Is an €80,000 car distasteful to you? Or how about an €800,000 house?

Some people are lazy, don’t want to work and expect handouts, others are hard workers and like to reward themselves for their effort. Some people like to spend their money on far more frippery than something like this, others do not. Some people like to save before buying an expensive item, others like to use credit etc etc.

I don’t see how anyone could know the price from just looking at the coat – if Simon hadn’t said what it cost and you just saw him wearing it then you’d not even think about it. If Liverano’s customer base decided en masse to refrain from purchasing their products then the price would come down! Evidently there are people who are prepared to pay that and I for one find it somewhat arrogant of you to opine on how anyone chooses to spend their hard-earned. You don’t have to buy from Liverano if you don’t want to, there are plenty of other (cheaper) options on the market…

I guess I’m reacting to the political subtext in your comment Anon. We’re here to enjoy and be inspired by the clothing Simon seeks out; it’s not as if every single item he buys/features on here is coming in at this price point.

Anon

For the record I would find both an £80,000 car or £800,000 house distasteful, yes. Although the reasons for these two things costing what they do are very different and therefor my distatse is directed in varying directions depending on which if the too you are focusing on.

Statementslike ‘some people are lazy, don’t want to work and expect handouts’ signals a downward turn for the comments on this site. Perhaps I shouldn’t have said anything.

Andy Poupart

Interesting coat. For me, the Edward Sexton coat you had made is far more appealing in design and coherence than this Liverano. I think the Harris Tweed, while attractive, significantly undercuts the design elements that make the Ulster appealing. You’ve made a fairly formal coat out of a rather informal cloth (both texture and color) and I think there is a discordant element to the coat as a result. It’s neither one thing nor the other. Overall, it probably works better as a casual piece.

If I were to duplicate one of your coats, it would be the Sexton.

Hugh

I quite enjoy the formal(ish) cut done up in a casual cloth. I find that for me it makes for a coat which is quite wearable.

My issue with the coat above is the weight and color. However, it fails a gap in Simons wardrobe which I don’t have.

If I were to copy a coat It would be his cifonelli

Hugh

Sorry for the typo. It should read: “it fills* a gap…”

Su'uch

Looks fantastic. Now I want to go to Liverano+liverano…….

Rik

That’s a stunning coat, Simon – congratulations. I wonder with this sort of thing, and indeed your other very high end bespoke clothing, do you feel able to wear it in everyday situations like on the tube, for example? Or it reserved for special occasions? Is it possible to be completely relaxed about such fine clobber?

Miguel

Simon, amazing coat and overall look. Who’s that waistcoat from? Thanks

didi

Hello Simon,
Outstanding coat !
However what is the weight of the fabric ? I am not sure I clearly checked but I think this fabric by H&S must be over 500gr per meter. If I am right, what would be a weighty coat then ? I assume ther must be 2 meters + some canvas : it could lead to 1.5 kg or so ? In your opinion what a weighty coat fabric would be ?

I am really keen on such a subject for some health-related issues.

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Didi

Anonymous

Lest we forget that without Simon commisioning pieces like this and others this website which we all enjoy reading reguarly would very quickly come to a halt as he will have ran out of things to talk and write about.
I am sure, though I could be wrong that he has a big enough wardrobe with enough coats jackets suits trousers shirts ties and heavens knows whatever else that he never needs to buy anything else ever again but I assume he does for us and out of enjoyment he gets from being one of a rare few that can
Also, as he has made clear he sells advertising space on the page which obviously covers the cost of commissions like this….

Please keep commisioning expensive thins like this

johnnydevore

Word to that

Ben

Good god man.

Brian G.

Caption under last photo s/b, “Look, a bird, a plane, no it’s Superman!”…for those of us who grew up in the 50’s in the states.
Faboulous coat. Love fabric selection and design. Particularly the collar and turn-back cuffs. Regarding price, years and years ago, in very early 80’s, I bought a double-breasted navy wool coat from Paul Stuart (NYC). It was a very cold Christmas this year in NYC. I wore the same PS coat. My daughter’s Mother recalled when I bought it and how she couldn’t believe I spent $600 on a coat! I responded that while it was expensive, I’ve been wearing it for almost 40 years and it looks great ever time I wear it. She blamed my Mother for that thinking. Mom loved fabric and poetry. (She tricked me once to see the Mona Lisa at the Met Museum of Art by bribing me with a 10 cent Drake’s cake.) Anyhow, one does need to balancing wine-cellar inventory additions with Simon’s temptations.

Sandy

Hi Simon,
Did you actually pay 8650 pounds for this coat ? Surprising that they didn’t offer any discounts. Also I am curious to know whether you accept discounts on pricing while commissioning. Hope you won’t feel offended, but as a reader I was just curious.

David

Simon,
At £7600, I think that there is a danger that disgusting over-indulgence could start to overshadow the merits of this site.
One way around this would be to review items that you like that others have commissioned and had a goodly measure of wear from – perhaps MR.Hilliard or you could even ask the tailor, in this instance Liverano, if they have a suitable client who would co-operate.
This approach would also have the benefit of introducing other perspectives.
As things stand, few readers will believe that this coat will get any more substantive wear than Sexton’s, Cifonelli and all of the other coats at the bottom of your wardrobe.
Given that how things wear over time is of real importance, your current approach of endless like personal commissions kind of negates your ability to realistically comment.
Regarding this outfit itself, I think it fails because there is just too much going on, and too many contrasts. I’m afraid it falls into the ‘dressing up category ‘.
Regards,
David

David

Simon,
I think you have misunderstood what I said.
I don’t want you to cover RTW any more than you have thus far.
I am proposing that you liase with artisans and their clients to cover pieces of interest that they may have commissioned.
At the beginning of this piece you mentioned that Mr. Hilliard had such a coat – cover his is what I’m suggesting.
I enjoy this site and it has great merit. But beware that those of us that have ploughed this furrow for many years do not salute overindulgence.
In fact, we’ve learnt that real Permanent Style is the opposite.

Simon C (not Crompton)

Surely one man’s (over) indulgence is another man’s standard approach to their chosen lifestyle. I work with people who will spend £30k+ on a car but no more than £60 on their only pair of work shoes. To me that is car over indulgence. The coat in question is more than I paid for my car; I would take the coat and get the bus! It’s an amazing colour and style but would cost me a divorce if I ever spent that on a coat thanks in some part to the exorbitant nursery fees I pay for my children.

Phil

I think there’s a lack of imagination in some of the price related comments here. This is a beautiful bespoke coat, a one-off, made by one of the best tailors in the world. I have no idea how many hours’ work went into it, but presumably dozens. If you really can’t get past the price tag I suggest dividing the cost by the total number of hours involved. If you then consider that there are only a tiny number of people in the world who produce work to this level, and that the coat should last, and look wonderful, for decades, then I suspect the result won’t seem so unreasonable. I applaud anyone who can appreciate and is prepared to invest in a timeless piece like this. Good luck to you Simon, and thanks for sharing.

Ian A

Yes! Such wisdom! Especially when you consider how many numpties think nothing of spending £4000 a year on a 20 a day fag habit and another 3 or 4 beers in the pub 3 or 4 nights a week and then have the cheek to berate somebody for having something made by an elite tailor. Really it’s a matter of priorities.

I like the coat but i’d Prefer something lined in American brown mink myself if we were talking about that kind of money. The style of hat i’m not keen on, especially when Simon has many Baker boy and fedora which suit him well.

I like Simon’s coat but

Wes WP

What I find ironic about the winging and complaining associated with the cost of this Ulster coat is that 90% of PS readers are intensely interested in the price tag.

Invariably, if Simon doesn’t list the price of the garment or accessory, three or four readers will comment: What’s the price? How much?

So much of this site – and Simon’s sartorial adventures – is about living vicariously through Simon. The great majority cannot – or would not – afford many of these pieces. Simon serves as our cultural attache – giving us a sense of how to choose things, but also what they’d cost if we ever became what we aspired to.

In an age of relative transparency – Simon destroys the fourth wall of “price upon request.” Well, PS readers usually request the price from him (vs. contacting the tailor or store directly), and when he gives it to us, we’re somehow shocked or dismayed?

I think the only real practical issue here is that – perhaps – such high price tags on clothing that we wouldn’t wear that often is creating a “new normal.” There’s always a pain point – at every level of consumption: $500 for jeans (too painful). $1000 for a sweater (ouch). $10,000 for a coat…

The problem may be that Simon is recalibrating that pain point. Essentially, it’s the law of contrast in effect here in a powerful way: the higher these price tags go on PS for commissions, the less painful it will become (for us – the slightly above-average consumer) to spend, say, $5000 on a coat. After all, if Simon spends twice that, aren’t we getting a bargain?

This new normal – of high end clothes outpacing the inflation rate of U.S. college educations – may someday soon make a Kiton coat seem quaint.

That aside – I love Simon’s coverage, his discerning eye, and his willingness to divulge cost.

If you read this post carefully, one of the first things Simon does is acknowledge how ludicrously expensive this Ulster coat is.

That is either a genius sales tactic (let me get your threshold objection out of the way), or a way to acknowledge he’s spent too much on a single piece of clothing…the latter is something we can all relate to, many times over.

Håkon

I disagree.

I come to this site not to live vicariously through somebody else, I come here to get ideas and insights on what I could add to my own wardrobe.

Now, luckily, I’m doing quite well for myself but I feel that a 10000 Euro coat is simply money not well spent for almost everybody. At the same time I get that this is EXACTLY what i would buy if I ran a blog on clothing.

What I would suggest, if I may, is to keep a bit of balance. For example some of my absolute favorite shoes are only in Euro 500 range (C&J), and even more extreme some of my favorite cashmeres cost less than Euro 100 (Uniqlo).

WES WP

Hakon –

I think getting inspired by someone else’s life (or actions, or purchases) is a kind of emulation – and is closely related to a vicarious thrill. Your comment “If I ran a blog” is literally the same as saying, “I am fantasizing about running a blog – something that someone else does. I would have made the same purchase if I’d had a blog – but I don’t.”

Simon has come to represent the upper echelon of the 1% – in the past year and a half (for example) – any one of these purchases (Seraphin or Cifonelli, or – well – anything) is a kind of holy grail, fantasy purchase. Any one of these commissions symbolizes a question my tailor once asked me: “If you could have anything made – and price were no object – then what would you want me to make you?”

I might get one of those kinds of purchases every decade (or five years) – but Simon is getting them weekly or monthly.

I delight in that vicarious thrill (as I’ve described it, and as you’ve reinforced it), and I also do find sage advice here as well. I’ve learned about an amazing custom atelier from a commenter here in the peanut gallery.

As for Uniqlo – I’ve never found any of their pieces useful or well made. I got severe static shock from their down coats.

Timofey

Simon, I see disbalance between your coat and your shoes . Shoes is too light for this coat . Don’t you think?

Abu Galib

Hey Simon,
what is that coat, the gentleman in orange cap and a camera in right hand is wearing?

Anonymous

I’m going to get a brown coat now!!

But Simon, my watch strap is black. Do you think I should get a brown strap to wear with the coat?

TS

Beautiful cloth and nice cut. While the coat looks good, I’m surprised no one has commented about the collapsing of the chest. Notice the wrinkles on both sides where it should drape cleanly but does not.
Same is true of the back. The ripples of fullness should fall straight down, not diagonally. I’m not a tailor and maybe some of this is photography related, but if the chest breaks like that in real life, I would go back to Liverano and ask them to fix it.

Martin

Is the coat cut fuller for practical or asthetic reasons? I guess every jacket worn underneath would be a lot tighter.

Pogiguy

Simon, please could you describe a little more about the belt on the coat. Is it adjustable, how it works, etc. Thank you

Anders

Hi Simon, not sure where to put this comment but trying here. Saw another post with a great navy linen bomber from hermes, do you know the weight of the fabric? Thinking about having a similar jacket made up, but not sure of the fabric thickness..
Thanks!

A.

Simon what is the relationship between these types of overcoats and heavy/light rain?
I’ve always wanted a tweed overcoat but always renounced in favor of Herno (for example) due to their rainproof feature.

TK

Nice coat Simon.One point that I have never read before on your blog.Is the lining hand stitched at the hem and then left to float loose of the coat or is it attached the the fabric?How are your other overcoats constructed in this area?When I first saw this loose lining I thought my tailor had forgotten to stitch it to the cloth but he replied that he always used this method.Perhaps most tailors do’nt use it nowadays.

Ken

Simon

you have 3 great coats – the Cifonelli, the Edward Sexton and this Liverano. if you could only choose one coat, for business and pleasure, which would you choose?

Ken

Hugh

One part of the jackets’ versatility is the ability to button up to the neck. Is this one able to do so? And if yes, can you post a picture?

Thanks

suffolk

A truly beautiful coat. I love the fabric.

I asked you some time ago (I think you’d just had another coat made) if you’d ever be getting a Raglan sleeved (or, is that Raglan shouldered?) coat made. As I recall you quite liked the idea then. Is it ever going to happen? And if you did commission one, who would you use?

willingtolearn

Simon,

Beautiful coat and congratulations.

One quick point to a reader commenting that they liked the cloth and hoped it was still in productions by the time they could afford a bespoke commission – buy the cloth now. If a bespoke sport coat is + / – €3000, the cloth will be + / – 10% of that. Surely affordable now and you won’t have to worry about future availability.

More to the point, could you talk about how the process with L+L worked? Its clear to me from Armoury marketing that Mr. Liverano no longer travels. Did you work with him in Florence? Or was it mostly Taka and others? Just as I became interested in a Liverano commission, Mr. Liverano stopped coming to NYC, and being blunt, the only way I could justify the cost is attributing part of the cost to the experience of working directly with him and having that “made by the maestro” experience/story. I have no doubt Taka and others are more than competent, but a sport coat from them wouldn’t be worth the same price to me.

James Thomlinson

Where is the cardigan from please Simon?

StToms

I hope this does’nt seem like a silly question but why did’nt you go to a tailor like Graham Browne and get the coat made for…I do’nt know…£1500?

john

Morning Simon
As we are talking about coats and prices can I just point out that to many people paying £1,200 for a raincoat is excessive. It all comes down to hat you have available to spend and as you said yourself you decided not to buy something expensive to buy this.
I am getting a little frustrated about the tone of some of the comments on this blog which are tending to veer away from good manners. I think you must have the patience of a saint to respond the way you do.
Finally and on £1,200 raincoats – my piggy bank is now full and more importantly my wife says I can so Simon when will the PS shop have some larger sized raincoats in?

Ted

Hello! Lovely coat. I have a question about the sleeve cuff design: Is the upturned portion of the sleeve double thickness? Or is it a single layer that is finished with a seam at the top? (Basically the opposite of a hemmed pant leg.)

I’m asking because I have a similar coat in a heavy, navy wool that needs the sleeves shortened and I was thinking of trying to duplicate the design of your ulster.

Thanks! And thanks for all of the information that you make available to us via this website. Permanent Style is one of my main sources of menswear information.

RODNEY

I’ve been intrigued by combinations of green and gray for a while. I like your scarf and watch cap colors combined with the coat. I read your blog for ideas and the discussion of men’s clothing and shoes. I like the way you respond to the “haters” as we call them in the US. Keep up the good work!

Anonymous

Hi, I wrote a straightforward yet polite question breaking down cost and asking about value. My question was on value and vanity purchases. For clarity my view is that bespoke offers good value as the mark-ups are within reason (up to 200%) – this is vs. fashion purchases wherein mark-ups are up to 600%. People will spend to this level as there is a vanity element aligning oneself with brand and the associated life-style (usually one of ease and luxury). Bespoke, is of course, more discreet. I also asked about the comparitive value between Sexton and Liverano – you had a very fine piece made by Sexton for £2k less – I think it not unreasonable to ask where the difference in value is between the two especially as I hold Sexton’s work to be superior (though perhaps less versatile). As a footnote I have posted breakdowns of costs on items before – you do seem resistant to posting these?

Losinj

Simon,can you help?I have this compelling desire to commission a similar coat in navy cashmere or wool/cashmere blend albeit without the rear belt.Any advice as to fabric would be gratefully received …perhaps I should visit a physician to dispel the psychological craving.

Dev

The Coat looks great Simon!! I’m really fond of the brick/rust color, it stands out!!

I just had a question with regards to the lining.

Personally, I’m not a huge fan of the silk lining when it comes to outerwear; I find it rather uncomfortable so was wondering if you would recommend getting a Coat like this unlined? Like double-face Harris Tweed in this case. Do you think that would compromise the shape/structure of the Coat? What would you suggest?

Many Thanks and of course a huge fan of your work here and on Instagram!!

Foussard

Hi,you have several really interesting overcoats but you do’nt seem to have one for very formal occasions….evening wear,funerals,weddings.I think a dark grey double or single(if you prefer) breasted with jetted pockets and flaps would have fitted the bill as one of your early commissions.I just ca’nt understand why you did’nt have one made.They are so adaptable.You can wear it for business or even as I do with a casual suit in very cold weather.One of life’s mysteries!

Foussard

Sorry,I should have added that my db suggestion would have peaked lapels with a 6 * 2 button configuration.

Foussard

I take your point about the rarity of formal events in your life but just wear the db overcoat to work occasionally or even informally as I said on a rotational basis with other coats.Believe me it will get some wear and then when the formal occasion arises at least you have an appropriate coat.I know this sounds very stuffy and outdated but I thought some PS readers liked to wear clothes that fit in with the occasion.On the other hand,lets be frank,it proberbly does’nt matter to the vast majority of people who do’nt seem to bother about such things!

Timofey

I saw this capotto in life in Firenze. It’s really absolutely amazing

Luis

Congratulations on this stunning overcoat Simon!
You said bellow that unlike your Cifonelli DB overcoat this one doesn’t button under the chin.
May I ask you why that is so?
And ​do you ever wear this coat also with the six buttons fastened​,​ or do you only fasten the central two?
​And when ​you only fasten the central two, is the coat comfortable in a cold and windy weather?
​Many t​hank​s​ you and keep up the great work!

Luis

So is the button from the upper row actually functional — in, other words, is it done to be buttoned —, or is it simply decorative?
Many thanks and, again, congratulations on this beautiful piece!

Fabrizio Gatti

It is a beautiful smart coat; the choice of cloth is very nice and the cut is excellent. I also like the unusual choice of pocket flaps. I am under the impression that the Ulster coats made by Italian tailors are a bit shorter and tighter than the traditional ones (specially those made by Neapolitan tailors). In this L&L’s example, it may be that the back belt is tighter than it is in the more traditional model. I have a preference for the wider and longer fit of the ones that Prince Charles and the Duke of Windsor used to wear.  
On a side note, I plan to visit my tailor in Chicago soon to order a Balmacaan coat that will replace my very old Loden coat, whose life has come to an end. I am thinking of a herringbone heavy tweed, probably on the greyish, greenish or blueish colour gradations, since brown does not look good on me. However, I am open to more innovative ideas on the subject of cloth, cloth weight, color and texture and horn button choices.
I also believe that in my case (not tall at all: height is 5’8”) the length should not exceed the 1-inch mark under the knee and would also consider a modified version of the Balmacaan, that is, with a regular center vent instead of the deep folded one (Loden coat type), while maintaining the raglan sleeves, the Prussian collar and the button-tab cuffs.
What are your thoughts?
Thank you

hugh

Fabrizio,

If you don’t mind, could you share the name of your Chicago tailor?

Thanks,
Hugh (pilsen)

Fabrizio Gatti

With much pleasure, Hugh.
Paul Chang, 180 N. LaSalle Dr. . Small tailor shop, (like in the good old times), not a “house” like the big boys in Saville Road or the Caraceni, Rubinacci, etc in Milano, Florence, Rome and Naples. Hong Kong trained, English style, no unconstructed or deconstructed jackets, but still soft, light padding, canvas, working button holes, etc., he is also the cutter and two helps work with him (not 40-50 people) in the shop (again, old fashioned). Bring your own horn or corozo buttons. Jackets at around US$2,000, suits at around US$2,700. Highly recommended by me, who in my yougth was a loyal client of A. Caraceni in Milano and now refuses to pay 5,000 euro and more for a suit. In fact, I am much wiser now. I still have my Caraceni’s suits and jackets though :). After all, the Duke of Windsor too used to scout and use small unknown tailor shops in Paris. I am going to see him today to order a pair of pants from a Vitale Barberis Canonico swatch.

SLC

Hi Simon, huge fan of your blog! And I think this coat is phenomenal.

I am looking to commission a similar style coat. However, my budget is in the region of £3k. Would you be able suggest any tailors I should look into? Or even any RTW that you think is worth considering?

Thank you!

FIDELIO

Hi Simon,
I have been following your blog and advice on my bespoke adventures and been very pleased with the results. Thank you. After commissioning 12-13oz navy worsted and grey flannel suits and a cashmere jacket I am now looking forward to an overcoat as my next piece. It would be in the style of your Liverano here or your Cifonelli navy cashmere. Do you think Whitcomb & Shaftesbury can replicate those styles?

FIDELIO

Thank you. What would be the main difference, the softness in shoulder padding and sleeves? Chest structure? Are those aspects of Italian tailoring as difficult to achieve in an overcoat as in a jacket for example?

Christos

Hi Simon,

i can not really tell from the pictures, is the make here shirt shoulders?

Is there any padding?

Best,
Christos

Christos

Hi Simon,

judging from the pictures, it seems that the position of the middle buttons (row) of this coat (so the fastening buttons) are higher than the position of the fastening button of a jacket. Is there more freedom in the positioning of the ‘fastening’ buttons on a coat than on a jacket?

Or does this higher position come from that the waist of the coat is actually the waist of the jacket beneath which in turn is higher than the natural waist?

And why is the belt then placed more to the hipbones then the to waist? Is it a matter of proportions or practicality?

Ben

Simon, how do you compare Liverano’s RTW with their bespoke? Their RTW look value to money. What do you think about their quality?

Alexandre

Simon, it is a great coat. Is the martingale of fixed length or you can change the length of it?

Ollie

This coat is… AMAZING!

A cloth related question, Simon – You have a separate article on Escorial wool. Given the chance to make up a jacket, would you lean further towards this Harris tweed or the brown Escorial?

TOS

Absolutely beauty of a coat in my view, Simon. Personally, I love the way you experiment with formality and play with cloth, structure and design.
I’m in the market for a warm coat and am very much taken by the ulster coat look. Do you think the Neapolitans eg Ciardi would be able to execute?
Grateful for your thoughts.
All the best.

Kostas

Beautiful coat Simon . May i ask the what is the width of the lapels ? Thanks.

Kostas

Thank you . They seem much bigger.

Kostas

Hi Simon. You have mentioned the ankle of the lapels. Is the ankle of the lapel more high than others Ulsters coats ? Thanks.

Sal

Hi, some questions regarding measurements on this amazing coat.
How wide is the collar in the front? approx 12 cm?
How large is the collar in the back when folded down? is this 6,5 cm you refer to above?
How large are the turnback cuffs? 7 cm? And how large (high) is the belt at the back? 8 cm?
Finally – are there any internal pockets?