My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
Match in comments:
Many thanks for that. I'm currently wearing in my new G&G Regent shoes MTO and I tell you, they are a pretty TIGHT fit but already mellowing. Leather stretches afrer all. Should be OK. Tony measured me after all....
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
Match in comments:
Have you seen this post on overcoat fit?...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
Match in comments:
I'd go with grey herringbone - see the article on a capsule like that here...
Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing
A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just to...
Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing
Match in comments:
I would leave that up to the tailor to decide George, based on the proportions elsewhere. By the way, I assume you mean flapped as well, not just a jett?...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Match in comments:
What do you mean by grabby in this instance? I am thinking of potentially sizing down from my normal size for the model 7, so any clarification you can offer would be great...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...
Match in comments:
Great advice. Thanks for the ideas...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
Match in comments:
Yes, they probably are, the shoulder seam can vary a fair bit with style (an extended shoulder) and with type of make (the backwards slope)....
Wearing warm and cold colours
Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality: Mo...
Wearing warm and cold colours
Match in comments:
Not really a shirt, but with a jacket I do. It's really just a matter of thinking what else (trousers, knits) it will go with, but you could think of it in terms of warm and cool. I don't really think about what's near t...
The roll neck
The Spring/Summer collections may be arriving, but it’s 2 degrees outside in London, and I’m continuing a season-long love affair with roll necks. The wonderful thing about a roll neck is that it is both very practical and very stylish; ...
The roll neck
Match in comments:
Thank you....
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
Match in comments:
No, mine wasn't a worsted...
Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review
I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very expensive, however, and it ...
Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review
Match in comments:
I don't know any actually Dan, they're mostly made for jackets. The undyed collection from Marling & Evans has some good coatings in it, but there's nothing this colour...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
Match in comments:
I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...
Florence: A sartorial shopping guide
Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo. But it has enough ...
Florence: A sartorial shopping guide
Match in comments:
I'm afraid it doesn't, sorry Darshan. To be honest, I also don't really use makers specifically for trousers these days, as so many tailors that make everything also make trousers that are just as good....
How wide should my jacket lapels be?
A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels are wider than others, but t...
How wide should my jacket lapels be?
Match in comments:
It does sounds very big to me Robert, yes. I'd go at least a cm smaller than that, maybe more. Bear in mind flair will come from the cut and the accessories too, you don't want anything style wise on the suit that people...
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion beforehand, at ...
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
Match in comments:
Thanks Irv, lovely to hear...
The 10 Most Rakish Men
Nice to be included in The Rake Japan’s list of the 10 most Rakish men in the world, and alongside some lovely company. As ever, the Japan arm of the magazine is particularly geeky, and concentrated on accessories, collections and cloth...
The 10 Most Rakish Men
Match in comments:
Well deserved!...
House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...
Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was ...
House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...
Match in comments:
Thanks Chris. There is a post covering it here....
Tailoring Symposium: the outfits
* Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson (Do you agree? Join in!) * These are the si...
Tailoring Symposium: the outfits
Match in comments:
Yes it is, and of several other Savile Row tailors. Usually just on the back pocket though, given no buttons on the trousers are visible elsewhere. I always liked it as a small decorative touch....
The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room
“Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest pleas...
The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room
Match in comments:
Not really, no.... Flannel isn't always great for a jacket, but more importantly this would be a very bold thing for a first commission (colour, DB, and 6x1 rather than 6x2) and I'd be afraid you wouldn't wear it that mu...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more s...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
Match in comments:
I haven't tried Inglese enough (one shirt a long time ago) to really comment on other areas like fit...
Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...
At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and An...
Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...
Match in comments:
Sometime in the future it would be interesting to see a range of work from provincial Tailors. Some people who have posted on your Blog have alluded to this subject in the past. There are many talented people out there a...
Vitale Barberis opens archives
Last week Vitale Barberis Canonico held a party at the mill in Patrivero, near Biella, to celebrate the refurnishing and opening up of its archives. It was a great event, and the archives have created a rich resource for designers the world over. Ale...
Vitale Barberis opens archives
Match in comments:
Lucky you, that's a pretty good team. Miss Yoshimi Hasegawa got a wonderful tumblr here -> http://yoshimihasegawa.tumblr.com...
The Rake opens London Collections: Men
This is probably the busiest week of the year. I tend to avoid the fashion shows, but there are now some great tailoring events in the calendar – including The Rake’s party at Claridge’s on Sunday night and the English G...
The Rake opens London Collections: Men
Match in comments:
I know Harry, yes. Not the others though...
How to wear separate jackets and trousers
In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broader range of cloth, colour and p...
How to wear separate jackets and trousers
Match in comments:
In terms of jackets? I'd start with something like a light or mid-grey jacket, white shirt and black shoes. I'd then also try a navy, a cream, possibly a black, and possibly a beige/oatmeal. Plain colours (given the trou...
Video on suits and their construction
Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a new MTM/bespoke initiative at...
Video on suits and their construction
Match in comments:
Thanks Simon. That looks spot on. Cruel though to send that video to an emigrant Irish man. Rory's accent is killing me. I'll be crying into a pint of Guinness tonight....
