My experience with Florentine tailors
My first Liverano suit By Max Papier. I used to think the satisfaction of bespoke tailoring came from the finished garment. Over time, I’ve learned it comes from something quieter: memory, repetition, and the way pieces begin to mark periods o...
My experience with Florentine tailors
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That looks great. I am visiting the Assisi trunk show at the PS showroom early April. They seemed to be at ease with me bringing fabric, so they probably just cram it in like you suggest. but loved the insights my naive ...
Finding the soul of Florentine tailoring
Model wearing suit by Giuseppe Seminara By Max Papier. In part one of this series, I wrote about finding my fit among Italy’s tailoring traditions. What has stayed with me about Florentine tailoring, however, is not just how the pieces look or...
Finding the soul of Florentine tailoring
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Wonderful Martina, thank you!...
Suits like cities: One way to understand Italian ...
By Max Papier. Italian tailoring is a wide term, and it encompasses far more than most people initially expect. Over the course of my career, I’ve been fortunate enough to try tailoring from across Italy in an attempt to understand which style...
Suits like cities: One way to understand Italian ...
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My company has offices all over Italy including Milan, Rome and Naples (but not Florence) which gives an interesting insight on how people dress differently across the country. As Petronio said, in Milan one sees almost ...
Denim and tweed: My Scotland travel capsule
I usually find packing for work trips quite straightforward. I know what I’ll be doing, in what kinds of places, and therefore what clothing will be appropriate. The challenge is smaller things like a summer jacket that will go with both tailo...
Denim and tweed: My Scotland travel capsule
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No, I didn't really experience much shrinking. You never get it really on ones like the Husbands because that light wash and fading has already been achieved by so much washing already. But the Rubato one I found fine as...
Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This coat from Liverano & Liverano in Florence has had a bit of an after life, being imitated in this tweed a fair bit, as well as spurring some to have the same coat from Liverano (despite the high cost). It remains one of my absolute favou...
Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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Hi Trevor - we've met, but really Max is the one who knows this area best, and covered him in his recent article...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
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Oh good, that's lovely to hear Jack...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth and for ra...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
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If it's really cold, a down parka. If less so, then yes a waxed jacket or something like a McCoy's deck jacket...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing
A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just to...
Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing
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Yes I think that's a good call...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
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To be honest Darius, if you're going through that kind of change, I would hold off on buying anything that's a real investment. Sorry, I know it's not what you want to hear but it is much more sensible...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird in th...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...
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Great advice. Thanks for the ideas...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Brea...
Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Brea...
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I didn't request it specifically, but at the fitting it looked a little short so we pushed it down a bit. Bear in mind people vary in their proportions as well as height, so I might just have a longer torso than you...
Wearing warm and cold colours
Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality: Mo...
Wearing warm and cold colours
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Hi Simon, I'm a first-time commenter but a longtime reader, and Permanent Style is easily my favorite menswear resource and a big influence in my style journey, so thank you for that! I do have some constructive criticis...
The roll neck
The Spring/Summer collections may be arriving, but it’s 2 degrees outside in London, and I’m continuing a season-long love affair with roll necks. The wonderful thing about a roll neck is that it is both very practical and very stylish; ...
The roll neck
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Personally, I think you need both. Chunky roll necks are great but they're jacket substitutes, not to wear under a jacket. I'd get the chunky first, like Rubato or Brycelands, as the thinner style under a jacket is a lit...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
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Thanks for clarifying, Simon. I have never had cream trousers and I actually look forward to wearing them and if I find they are not for me than so be it. But then my style development curve is in another phase than your...
Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review
I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very expensive, however, and it ...
Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review
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Prices are today double than what the article says for those wondering. Overcoats are 15-20, suits are 10-12 k EUR...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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For a cream linen suit? No, not at all. Jacket or trousers, yes, but the suit should not be regarded as a staple. For DBs, absolutely...
Florence: A sartorial shopping guide
Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo. But it has enough ...
Florence: A sartorial shopping guide
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Bought a belt at Scuola di Cuoio and their pricing is surprisingly attractive, considering they produce locally and there is no designer brand premium. They have everything from luggage, (women‘s) bags, leather jackets...
How wide should my jacket lapels be?
A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels are wider than others, but t...
How wide should my jacket lapels be?
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Yes, I'm measuring horizontally to the end of the lower point of the notch. A peak lapel is a different look but I'd still consider a roughly similar proportion - even though the lapel will be naturally bigger, that poin...
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion beforehand, at the Four Se...
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
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Thanks Irv, lovely to hear...
The 10 Most Rakish Men
Nice to be included in The Rake Japan’s list of the 10 most Rakish men in the world, and alongside some lovely company. As ever, the Japan arm of the magazine is particularly geeky, and concentrated on accessories, collections and cloth...
The 10 Most Rakish Men
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Well deserved!...
House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...
Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was ...
House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...
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Thanks Chris. There is a post covering it here....
Tailoring Symposium: the outfits
* Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson (Do you agree? Join in!) * These are the si...
Tailoring Symposium: the outfits
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Yes it is, and of several other Savile Row tailors. Usually just on the back pocket though, given no buttons on the trousers are visible elsewhere. I always liked it as a small decorative touch....
The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room
“Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest pleas...
The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room
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Not really, no.... Flannel isn't always great for a jacket, but more importantly this would be a very bold thing for a first commission (colour, DB, and 6x1 rather than 6x2) and I'd be afraid you wouldn't wear it that mu...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more specialist t...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
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Thanks Gonis, I agree and it would be nice to cover...
