The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

April 8th 2019

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more...

Jackets - SuitsApril 8th 2019

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply...

February 20th 2019

  Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed   @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approac...

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply...

  Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed   @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biograph...

Style - SuitsFebruary 20th 2019

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Break...

November 26th 2018

Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Break...

Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has rec...

JacketsNovember 26th 2018

Wearing warm and cold colours

April 4th 2018

Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality: Mo...

Wearing warm and cold colours

Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things c...

StyleApril 4th 2018

The roll neck

February 16th 2018

The Spring/Summer collections may be arriving, but it’s 2 degrees outside in London, and I’m continuing a season-long love affair with roll necks. The wonderful thing about a roll neck is that it is both very practical and very stylish; ...

The roll neck

The Spring/Summer collections may be arriving, but it’s 2 degrees outside in London, and I’m continuing a season-long love affair with roll necks. The wonderful thing about a roll neck is that it is both very practi...

KnitwearFebruary 16th 2018

Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill

February 12th 2018

*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...

Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill

*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill.   ...

Cloth - TrousersFebruary 12th 2018

Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

January 5th 2018

I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very expensive, however, and it ...

Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very e...

CoatsJanuary 5th 2018

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It ma...

Black tie - CoatsSeptember 20th 2017

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

April 6th 2016

Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo. But it has enough ...

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

   Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo....

April 6th 2016

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

March 21st 2016

A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels are wider than others, but t...

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

   A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions.  As you can see from the images below, some lapels...

JacketsMarch 21st 2016

Video: The Tailoring Symposium

January 5th 2016

  Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion beforehand, at ...

Video: The Tailoring Symposium

  Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion...

January 5th 2016

The 10 Most Rakish Men

November 16th 2015

Nice to be included in The Rake Japan’s list of the 10 most Rakish men in the world, and alongside some lovely company. As ever, the Japan arm of the magazine is particularly geeky, and concentrated on accessories, collections and cloth...

The 10 Most Rakish Men

   Nice to be included in The Rake Japan’s list of the 10 most Rakish men in the world, and alongside some lovely company.  As ever, the Japan arm of the magazine is particularly geeky, and concentrated on acces...

November 16th 2015

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring...

August 19th 2015

Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was ...

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring...

Edward Sexton    Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the eve...

August 19th 2015

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

June 22nd 2015

* Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson (Do you agree? Join in!) * These are the si...

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

  *    Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard  Cifonelli  Liverano  Edward Sexton  Panico  Richard Anderson            (Do you agree? J...

June 22nd 2015

The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room

June 19th 2015

     “Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest pleas...

The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room

     “Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest ple...

June 19th 2015

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

June 15th 2015

  Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more s...

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

    Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleas...

Bags - ShoesJune 15th 2015

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tailo...

June 12th 2015

At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and An...

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tailo...

  At our  Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Li...

SuitsJune 12th 2015

Vitale Barberis opens archives

February 18th 2014

Last week Vitale Barberis Canonico held a party at the mill in Patrivero, near Biella, to celebrate the refurnishing and opening up of its archives. It was a great event, and the archives have created a rich resource for designers the world over. Ale...

Vitale Barberis opens archives

Last week Vitale Barberis Canonico held a party at the mill in Patrivero, near Biella, to celebrate the refurnishing and opening up of its archives. It was a great event, and the archives have created a rich resource for...

February 18th 2014

The Rake opens London Collections: Men

January 7th 2014

This is probably the busiest week of the year. I tend to avoid the fashion shows, but there are now some great tailoring events in the calendar – including The Rake’s party at Claridge’s on Sunday night and the English G...

The Rake opens London Collections: Men

This is probably the busiest week of the year. I tend to avoid the fashion shows, but there are now some great tailoring events in the calendar – including The Rake’s party at Claridge’s on Sunday night...

StyleJanuary 7th 2014

How to wear separate jackets and trousers

October 2nd 2013

In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broader range of cloth, colour and p...

How to wear separate jackets and trousers

In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broade...

Jackets - StyleOctober 2nd 2013

Video on suits and their construction

September 11th 2013

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a new MTM/bespoke initiative at...

Video on suits and their construction

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a new...

SuitsSeptember 11th 2013

Liverano & Liverano jacket

May 3rd 2013

This is a jacket from Liverano & Liverano, Florence. Readers of the Armoury’s excellent Tumblr account will be familiar with various Liverano jackets, but this was my first experience of the Liverano cut. Although it has many things in...

Liverano & Liverano jacket

This is a jacket from Liverano & Liverano, Florence. Readers of the Armoury’s excellent Tumblr account will be familiar with various Liverano jackets, but this was my first experience of the Liverano cut. Although...

JacketsMay 3rd 2013

The tailors I have known: Part 2, Italy, France, Sp...

December 14th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 612 3494 Euromoney PLC 29 6 4290 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false This post has now been combined with the larger list of UK tailors, to create a single resource. You can see that full list of Tailors I Have Known her...

The tailors I have known: Part 2, Italy, France, Sp...

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 612 3494 Euromoney PLC 29 6 4290 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false This post has now been combined with the larger list of UK tailors, to create a single resource.  You can see that full ...

December 14th 2012

Photos from Permanent Style drinks

October 11th 2012

Me and Theo, in Cifonelli jacket and Paul Stuart shirtThanks to everyone who came along to drinks a couple of weeks ago at The Armoury trunk show. It was to meet everyone and it looked like the prosecco went down well. A few shots of people below, ...

Photos from Permanent Style drinks

  Me and Theo, in Cifonelli jacket and Paul Stuart shirtThanks to everyone who came along to drinks a couple of weeks ago at The Armoury trunk show. It was to meet everyone and it looked like the prosecco went down wel...

StyleOctober 11th 2012