The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

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Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting.

If anything this is more needed than the trousers piece. First because there are even more options to choose from - once you take in the different models under each brand, and without even going into bespoke.

And second because the range is just really good. I can’t think of another shop that has this variety of ready-made and made-to-order tailoring, all made at a high quality and in styles I would wear.

If I wasn’t so deep into bespoke I would have tried a piece by now - and I’d certainly try the made-to-measure from Ring Jacket if I happened to be there at the same time as a trunk show.

There are four brands, which I’ll cover in descending order of the size of the range.

The biggest is the Ring Jacket tailoring, all made exclusively for The Armoury in their cuts and cloths. (And so different from Ring Jacket you might find elsewhere.)

These go by model numbers: 3, 6, 1, 7 and 11. The letters A or B after each one refer to the trouser style, when it’s a suit rather than a jacket.

The first jacket a customer will likely be put in is the model 3 (above). This is in some ways the Armoury default style, and also the one that appeals to the greatest range of customers.

It is a very softly structured jacket, with only a lightweight chest canvas that extends into the shoulder, instead of padding. But it also has a slightly extended shoulder, a little drape in the chest, and a little wadding in the sleevehead.

Those last three things stop it looking too casual and Neapolitan, and suitable for a business suit as much as a casual jacket. There are some Liverano influences in there, as you’d expect, particularly the straight lapel and shoulder line.

Personally, I think it’s a great, subtle style. It’s soft yet smart, and flattering in the lapel and shoulder. I wouldn’t wear it with chinos or jeans, but it’s a versatile choice for any other kind of tailoring.

The jacket I’m wearing is a size 40, in a covert cloth from this past Autumn/Winter collection. It even fits pretty well, aside from some correction for my sloping shoulders and arm length.

The guy that’s less likely to want the model 3 is someone that wants a sharper, more structured jacket. Or someone bigger in the body, where perhaps the softness of the 3 won’t be so flattering.

This leads onto model 1 (above), which has padding rather than canvas in the shoulder and is slightly cleaner in the sleevehead too.

The difference is small - indeed the model 1 has become increasingly like the 3 over time. But this is still more likely to appeal to the guy wanting a straighter business suit or blazer.

These Armoury jackets are available RTW, by the way, and made to order. With the latter you can pick cloth and change things like the body length, sleeve length, and waist.

But made-to-measure requires a Ring Jacket trunk show, which take place in both New York and Hong Kong stores.

Model 6 (above) is the double-breasted version of model 3, so everything is the same except for the lapels, buttons etc.

The lapels I really like. They’re wide, with a very slight belly. The peak isn’t too high or too low.

The only thing I don’t particularly like is the pick stitching along the edge of the lapel, which is rather too prominent for me. It seems to cheapens it slightly.

Model 7 (above) is a travel-jacket or shirt-jacket version of model 3.

So again, same style details but here with no canvas in the body, and an unlined sleeve. Very lightweight and comfortable.

Finally, model 11 (you guessed it, above) is the latest creation, a more casual jacket modelled with some Ivy League styling.

So while the body shape is similar to the other jackets, the lapel is smaller and shorter and it rolls higher on the body.

The hip pockets have buttoned flaps and a bellows style, while the breast pocket has a tiny, very subtle point at the bottom. Which might be my favourite style detail of the whole range.

The Ivy influence is clearest in the machined seam around the lapels, where Italian-styled models have that hand stitching (or imitation of hand stitching).

The model 11 is probably least my personal style, but I was interested how much I like it, given it’s the kind of proportions (particularly the lapel) I would never pick for bespoke.

The Ring Jacket suits start at $1600 by the way, and the jackets $1200. Pretty good value for the quality of the work: all the handwork you’d expect in a high-end ready-made suit, like a hand-attached collar, lining etc.

The next level up in terms of handwork and price is Orazio Luciano (above). Ready-made there starts at $2800 for a suit, with made-to-measure at $3200.

This is a Neapolitan cut and style. Not too tight or short, but with the curved ‘barchetta’ breast pocket, curved and open fronts, and hand-swelled edges.

The extra handwork is largely decorative: hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-attached buttons, hand-attached lining. It is a nice make though - I like the fact the inbreast pocket uses the facing material rather than the lining even if is a separate piece.

The shoulder is very natural, not too narrow, and I have to say this tan corduroy is great, even though it’s rather pale. (There’s one left on the website, size 52.)

Liverano is next, which is a style most readers will be familiar with.

If anything though, I’d say the style of the RTW (above) is more extreme than the bespoke I’ve had. The gorge is lower, the lapel is short and convex, and the buttoning point is low.

That effect that a Liverano cut can have, of a strong upper torso without the use of padding, is even more in evidence here.

Given the price ($3800 for a suit) I’d be more likely to go for the model 3 if I was picking ready-to-wear.

You can see a good range of the current season's Armoury tailoring in their new lookbook, here.

Photography: Elliot Hammer

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Stanley

Very nice post, i always visit thearmoury at Hong Kong, but this post give me more impression on their product detail

Do you think as a sport coat, does it really need bespoke and prefect/better fit?

The reason i ask because i really suffer on the size of their jacket, it seem all of their jacket is not good fit to Asian skinny guy

However i found very good fit in Japan original version’s Ring Jacket (order from ring jacket official site)

Tips: MTM/MTO for ring jacket in JAPAN is 20 – 30% cheaper

TomTom

Very nice selection of beautiful products but a bit too dear for my blood ..I mean $1800 for an RTW suit is quite steep, never mind the handwork. But besides the price I love what the guys in the Armoury are doing and wish them any more years of success.

BC

I would say the Liverano RTW is quite bulky. Isn’t it? It looks like the jacket doesn’t fit you well. What’s the size of the Liverano jacket you were wearing in the pic ?

BC

Do you like the “more extreme” features of the Liverano RTW?

Dan G

My only quibble with your summary is that I have a number of their MTM jackets and wear them with jeans regularly and think they work quite well. Personal taste I suppose.

Alex

Would you say that, taken purely on style and construction, the Orazio jacket would be the better option if you were primarily planning on wearing it with chinos/jeans?

Gonzague

Both jackets look nice. The OL extended shoulders looks good. In your experience, can extended shoulders be achieved without thick padding and not collapse after a while?

Anonymous

Hi Simon. What size are you wearing in the OL jacket?

Jason

The ‘Ring Jackets’ featured here look great but I suppose that if you live in the U.K. and went to NYC for a trunk show to get an MTM, you’d be subject to a horrendous import tax if you had it delivered to you in the U.K. ?
If so, why then don’t they arrange an Armoury/Ring trunk show at Drake’s to circumvent this issue.
The tailoring offering at the Armoury is clearly vastly superior to Drake’s own.

Anonymous

The Armoury always gets plenty of mention: outside of fashion, are there no other providers of high end RTW (I ask constructively…). I understand your reluctance to wear jacket 3 with jeans as the straight, flapped pockets bring a particular formality. 1 and 6 are similarly formal (though the lapels on 6 are too wide for this particular point in the fashion cycle). The Orazio and Liverano are, perhaps understandably, the most appealing. However, not your fault perhaps, there isn’t much of a discussion on value: given the prices I’d rather go bespoke. You discuss quality of finish but it is the quality of construction (and thus fit) that bespoke brings. Comparatively, the only benefit, something which you have previously pointed to, is the range and quality of fabric and the ability to try before purchase.

Anonymous

At the head of the article you mention trousers: personally I’d rather see more articles on trousers as they generally don’t get enough coverage within menswear. Jackets (singular or in a suit) seem to get 90% + of coverage. I ask as the issues of what makes a good cut and the associated quality of good fit, outside of length, cuff width and pocket style are always opaque. Architecturally, the shoes are the foundation, the trousers the supporting column of the upper design. As with architecture they look simple however construction is all. From a tailoring perspective front/rear balance, shaping, waist placement and fit, seat and groin fit, front placket design (french etc.), construction of the fork (and associated rise calculation), zip vs. buttons, adjusters, how differing cloth weights hang and take shape, how synthetics mixes cling, wheather the silhouette compliments or detracts from the jacket (so the merging of styles and lines) are all, I suggest, subjects worthy of analysis and description.

Shem

Hey simon. Great article. More importantly with pictures of each model. I wished there could have been similar pictures with the armoury trousers article to compare the fit.

On a side note is the model 3 padded as what you wrote? It’s featured as unpadded in the shoulder in the website. I personally own a model 3 and I think there is some padding as the shoulders. There is also a touch of rollino which makes it slightly more formal as well. It’s okay on my jacket as it’s a navy sportscoat. Wondering if those features will make most model 3 jackets look more formal, even in more casual clothes/patterns.

Shem

Thanks Simon for clarifying! Just wondering does it mean most fully canvassed jackets would have something like this in the shoulders? Or is it unique in this case to the model 3 jacket? Sorry asking as the only jackets I own are all model 3 jackets. Big fan of the armoury here

Craig

Nice run-down. Walked past you and Mark on your way into The Armoury’s Pedder shop a week or so ago, talking about plumbing problems, which should have made it easier to say hello, but I was too surprised, and dressed so poorly I didn’t want that to be anyone’s first impression. 🙂 Thank you for this run-down and for all your work. I appreciate both your writing/journalism as well as your work directly with the crafts-people.

AJ

Simon, do you think the model 7 has a more forgiving fit RTW, given its lack of structure?

Anonymous

Simon
good stuff, lovely jackets. But still pretty inaccessible at this price point, which perhaps defeats purpose of RTW coverage! How does the RTW / MTM compare to Drakes?
Also – not sure about the glasses… A fashion throwback, a bit hipster and less PS than you are normally!

Scott

Great article Simon! I’ve been interested in Orazio Luciano for some time now so this information is helpful. I get the sense that the quality of the workmanship is very good, but not up to the bespoke level of Sartoria Formosa?

C

Lovely pieces! Although I’m wondering if it is possible to find RTW suits of a Neapolitan style (high gorge, wide lapels) in the UK without having to spend £1000+? I’m a university student (at the ‘The Other Place’) and cannot bear to wear the thin lapelled blazers from the brands I can afford (TM L & Charles Tyrwhitt etc.) Any help would be greatly appreciated!

p.s great blogs keep them up!

Stanley

Hi C

if you dont mind to order Ring Jacket from japan -> https://www.ringjacket.shop/shopbrand/suit/

if you dont understand Japaneses language, doesnt matter, just use google translate to transform whole site to english

They have very very good price and good quality , and they are able to adjust a little bit on the size, unless you are a very very big guy

Anonymous

As does Fenwicks

FIDELIO

Hi Simon,
How would do you compare the Ring Jacket MTM product vs. Saman Amel’s in terms of internal construction and finishing? On your Saman Amel review you stated that it would even compete with some bespoke Italian tailors, would you say the same of Ring Jacket?

FIDELIO

Thank you. So with Saman Amel you get a hand padded lapel and all the other functional and decorative hand work you’d expect of bespoke. You also get a careful measurement consultation and, if I understand correctly, at least one fitting. Is the only difference with full bespoke then the number of fittings?

Harry

The Armoury has a lousy size CHart for an American guy. I have no idea what size to take.Would it kill them to convert to inches?

Harry

By the way Drake’s jackets are too damn short! They sold me a grey flannel Easyday suit purportedly 42 reg it looks like a Thom Browne shrunken head piece. Waste of money

Anonymous

I got MTO recently, definitely a bit to short despite asking for a longer skirt. Otherwise great though

G.

I get your demands for quality. Though not in your sartorial league yet, my wardrobe is evolving to a higher quality, and understand that one cannot return to inferior items once one’s experienced the next level.

Shem

Hi Simon are you aware if there’s any handwork in the ring jackets? (e.g hand padded lapels etc)

Leo

Hi Simon
Great article. I can vouch for the quality and value of Ring Jacket suits and jackets, as I wear a number of their clothes. Purchased on-line from Japanese sites.

Ajay

Hi Simon, In regards to fit, finishing and style, how would you compare the Armoury Model 3 (which also comes in an MTM option) to Saman Amel’s MTM Napoli line (from which you did a recent jacket review)? Price points are similar as are some aspects of design.

Shem Teo

Hey Simon can I ask what is your actual chest size and what size you took in the amj03? I’m a 100cm in chest wondering if that’s a 48 or 50

Shem

Thanks Simon I have an amj03 in size 48 which I bought 3 years ago from the store in hk. At point of purchase Sam at the store advised taking in the chest by about 2cn which I did. Over the years I find the small armhole increasingly uncomfortable. I’m thinking of sizing up for my next purchase. With my current size 4i though would you think letting out the chest would mitigate the armhole issue, if at all?

zo

does anyone have any suggestions on ring jacket (not the armoury ones) sizing? I have heard you have to size up as the cuts are super slim, but cannot find a definitive guide. i am always a 48/uk38 in drakes, lardini etc, so any help here would be appreciated.

shem

Hey yes you do have to size up for the TAJ models (the ones sold by most retailers)

Harry

Pricey, and The sleeves are messy, wrinkled, and don’t sit right. fabric is pulling at armhole. Not sure if it’s fair to pay that much

Anonymous

From my point of view, Ring jacket from the Armoury, the price doesn’t reflects the quality, because they almost double the price from the Original Ring Jacket, i knew they have altered the fit from the original, but just look at the other example from Permanent Style’s frankClegg Tote bag, it doesnt mark up anyway

Frank

As a guy who lives in HK like myself, I wonder what’s the major difference between high-end RTW like Ring Jacket and mid-tier MTM/bespoke like The Anthology or Prologue? That ring jacket almost cost similar to Anthology and for sure more expensive than Prologue. I assume Ring jacket has more handiwork than Prologue but the rest are similar?

Peter

Come on Simon give your more informed readers a break! I could sit down and weep when I read what customers are paying for this work. A much higher standard is available from accomplished provincial tailors – you named a few in a recent post.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,
What do you think of Anthology’s RTW line compared to Ring Jacket and Orazio’s RTW in terms of style and quality?
Happy New Year!

Mbb355
Mbb355

Well, I’m looking for a spring/summer-weight grey jacket to wear mainly with charcoal and perhaps cream and dark brown trousers, to try for a spring/summer “cold color” look of the sort you’ve recently written about. This piece seems like it’d go well with charcoal and cream and seems lightweight and breathable enough. I think the pattern helps distinguish it from an orphaned suit jacket, but is not so busy to prevent it from being smart. I’ve seen you in a grey double-breaded checked jacket with other cold colors (I think in your mock-neck article), and I wanted to do something similar with this piece (albeit with something more lightweight and single-breasted). Hope that helps focus my question!

Mbb355

Thanks , that’s very helpful. Can I ask what makes you doubt its compatibility with charcoal trousers? Too dark to create sufficient contrast? Too much of a brown tinge? Thanks again!

Mbb355

Got it, thank you. The model in the stock photo appears to be wearing charcoal trousers (albeit very dark ones), and I think it looks great. There’s also this piece, which I think is slightly lighter and might work better with charcoal:

https://thearmoury.com/collections/sport-coats/products/wool-silk-linen-herringbone-model-3-sport-coat?variant=31842069020743

My concern there is that the jacket is too distinctly summery, with too much of that silk/linen “slub,” to look good with a “cold” ensemble, which really looks better when it’s smart and either fall/wintry or at least four-season. I also worried that this second piece’s pattern is so subtle that it looks basically plain, and plain mid-grey jackets are maybe just a little too dull. Sorry to go on about this!

Roy Chefets

I have had suits made, among other places, in Milan and Hong Kong. In both of those places there were lots of what seemed to be almost invisible pick stitches in the lower part of the jacket. Was this done to add weight to the jacket or to make it hang better?

John

It looks like the Armoury model 3 has become slightly more casual recently, including patch pockets (as opposed to flap pockets shown above). Do you think that would make it more appropriate with jeans and chinos? What do you think of their pecora nera jacket in the model 3? Do you like Loro Piana’s undyed wool?
Thanks