The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

July 12th 2021

*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton ...

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

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Your name sounds Scandinavian, so if you live close by you could try Andreas Feet in Oslo (Aker Brygge). He offer MTM and the style is more on the structured side. He has previously worked for Huntsman as well....

Jackets - SuitsJuly 12th 2021

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

May 15th 2020

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Ander...

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

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Yes I have, the shirt I featured recently here was from him. It was very good and I'd say pretty comparable with Luca. The only thing would be whether small changes to style and fit could be made in the same way with JMM...

Casual clothing - ShoesMay 15th 2020

Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

April 22nd 2020

[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six months. I was measured at Pit...

Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

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It's hard to know how much that was a personal thing Robert. I don't think you can expect it to be perfect on MTM though in general...

JacketsApril 22nd 2020

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

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Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...

Bags - Casual clothingJune 19th 2019

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

April 8th 2019

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

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To be honest Darius, if you're going through that kind of change, I would hold off on buying anything that's a real investment. Sorry, I know it's not what you want to hear but it is much more sensible...

Jackets - SuitsApril 8th 2019

Wearing warm and cold colours

April 4th 2018

Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality: Mo...

Wearing warm and cold colours

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I certainly would mix them together, yes, it can be an interesting combination....

StyleApril 4th 2018

Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...

March 26th 2018

  This is the latest in my somewhat infrequent series on the style of my favourite people in the menswear industry. For those that want to catch up, the previous instalments have been: Personal style: How to dress like Bruce Boyer (and part ...

Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...

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Excellent. He knows how to do a flow of tone from top to bottom -- for instance, light sport coat, while the dark tie leads the eye down to the dark pants. Perfect. Fullness of shirt collar/ tie width/ lapel width in har...

StyleMarch 26th 2018

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...

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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....

Bags - Casual clothingNovember 4th 2016

Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...

June 17th 2015

I know that one of the style areas people find most difficult is wearing sports jackets, or separate waistcoats, with everything else: shirt, tie, hank, trousers. I’ve always loved the way Alan at The Armoury wears these things together, ...

Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...

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How true. Think what you want about the clothes — for me they are more an exercise in fashion rather than style — that said, all is ruined by the phenomena of 'the dodgy barnett '. All of us that are lucky enough to ...

Jackets - June 17th 2015

Orazio Luciano: expanding Neapolitan tailoring

July 18th 2014

Orazio Luciano has an opportunity. It is expanding into the North American market at a time when Neapolitan tailoring is becoming increasingly popular, and other brands (most notably Kiton) are a fair bit more expensive. Orazio Luciano does classic...

Orazio Luciano: expanding Neapolitan tailoring

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Does anybody know if it is cheaper when you get measuared by OL in naples?...

July 18th 2014

Green, shantung, club (tie)

July 16th 2014

Dark green is a subtle and versatile tie colour. You’re not surprised I think that, right? After all I sing the praises of green at every opportunity. But broad truths bear repeating. With an outfit like the one above, navy would be the s...

Green, shantung, club (tie)

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They're a little informal for a suit, but in a dark colour perhaps with a slightly more casual suit, like a flannel...

Style - TiesJuly 16th 2014

How Pitti is changing

January 13th 2014

In my report on Pitti Uomo for Essence magazine I examine the manufacturers – such as Begg, Merola and Bresciani – that are becoming brands in their own right. Read it here. Pictured: Pino Luciano of Neapolitan tailors Orazio Luci...

How Pitti is changing

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That's a good question Alfred. I'll use it as a post sometime soon if that's ok? Simon...

StyleJanuary 13th 2014

Simone Righi, Frasi

January 31st 2013

It was nice to meet Simone Righi in Florence. I’ve been into Frasi, and Tie Your Tie as it was before, but not when he has been in the shop. Simone rebranded his shop three years ago, leaving the Japanese group Tie Your Tie. The stock and servi...

Simone Righi, Frasi

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Thanks Ruben, that's very kind...

January 31st 2013