Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

Wednesday, April 22nd 2020
Share
||- Begin Content -||

[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.]

This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six months. 

I was measured at Pitti in June last year, had two fittings in London in the Autumn (as Orazio started visiting for the first time) and then picked it up at Pitti in January. 

Orazio is a well-known option for MTM tailoring, being offered by stores around the world such as Pauw, Michael Jondral, The Armoury and others, as well as doing their own shows. 

For many, Orazio is their introduction to high-end MTM Neapolitan tailoring. So it’s good to be able to cover it, as well as to broaden the coverage of made-to-measure on Permanent Style. 

Overall this jacket was a decent fit, while not perfect, in a difficult material. 

There were points of style, in particular trimmings and closeness of cut, that were issues for me - but may not be for the others. 

Price might also be an issue. My Orazio jacket cost €2,200 and suits start at €2,800, with prices often higher through stores.

This is a lot cheaper than Kiton, where Orazio Luciano left to set up on his own. And prices have actually come down in recent years. But it's more expensive than most other MTM, and several bespoke options we've covered. Although it does have a hand-padded lapel, which puts it above most MT in terms of craft.  

I was impressed that Orazio did two fittings, and gave the impression they were happy to do so with any client. The aim seems to be flexibility: some customers are happy to simple order and not have a fitting, while others want (or need, if they have more difficult physiques) one or two fittings. 

And one thing that was different to most other made-to-measure was the fact the first fitting was partly basted. 

Most MTM is effectively finished when it is delivered for a fitting, limiting the possible changes. This is largely driven by the production process: it is made in a ready-to-wear factory, and delivered as a finished piece like any other. 

This Orazio wasn’t a full basted fitting, as you would get in bespoke, but it was similar to a forward, with lots of change still possible. 

I did need several things changing, including space in the waist, in the back, and in the sleeve. The Orazio cut is by default a close, short one, and many of the changes we made were pushing against that. 

Of course, having a baste is only useful if you do make lots of changes, and make them well. 

In some areas this was done effectively. For example, at the first fitting the collar of the jacket was a little low on my neck, and standing off slightly. Moritz, the fitter, shifted this up and onto my neck, and it was much better at the second fitting. 

You can see the effect of this high fit on the neck in the title image of this post, and the profile shot above. 

(Moritz Kossytorz runs his own made-to-measure company, Massura, but also works travelling for Orazio. This means neither Orazio nor Pino conducted my fittings, but they did take the initial measurements, and approve it at the end in Florence.)

In other areas the fit could be improved. The sleeves, most obviously, are still too short and need lengthening by around 1.5cm. 

There are plenty of wrinkles elsewhere - but this is corduroy, which has zero drape, and wrinkles are inevitable. 

The improvements that could be made to the fit - in my experience, from wearing and watching it - are perhaps a lifting up of the shoulders to reduce drape at the back, and a little collapsing on the front on my right side. 

Some other issues are an inevitable result of MTM manufacture, rather than bespoke. If the armhole and collar were a little more shaped, for example, it might be possible to stop the collar riding away from the neck when moving or using the pockets, as seen below. 

That last issue is not something any MTM usually addresses - even my best MTM, for example from Saman Amel

No overall, if the sleeves were lengthened a little, this Orazio jacket would be a decent MTM product.

A subtler and more subjective issue is the Orazio style. 

I was inspired to use this pink cord when I saw it on an Anderson & Sheppard jacket, and loved how unusual yet muted it was. (I would never have ordered it otherwise, just from a swatch.) But when I saw my first fitting from Orazio, it looked different. 

I realised it was the buttonhole thread, which was a bright shiny pink, where A&S had used something matte. You wouldn’t think the colour of buttonholes would make much difference but - rather like buttons - with nothing else decorating the jacket, they really stood out. 

Suddenly the pink looked flashy. I talked to Moritz about this, and the workshop found a replacement and re-did the buttonholes. Unfortunately, as anyone has seen buttonholes being done will know, they are rarely as neat the second time around. 

The Orazio team could not have done that work any better.

Rather, my point is that the Orazio style is a little showier than what I would normally go for - and you wouldn’t think that would make much difference with bespoke, but it does.

That cost me with the buttonholes, and the team also used a fairly bright pink lining that didn’t bother me previously, but I now notice. (That, of course, is easy to change.) Plus the overall cut of the jacket is still pushing a little towards slim and short. 

We did put more space into the back of the jacket twice during fittings, but it still feels tight. Orazio said in Florence that the cord would stretch over time, but I’m a little sceptical about that as it hasn’t been the case with my other cords. 

I’ve said many times before that you shouldn’t try to get a bespoke tailor to make something that isn’t their style. 

This might be even more true of made-to-measure. Those that offer it are usually more of a brand, after all, often with ready-made tailoring on display to see and try. I think you should only buy MTM from them if you would buy RTW based on their style, as well. 

Although there are other things that make my Saman Amel jacket a better MTM result, it is this point that I think is the most important. 

Fans of classic menswear spend a lot of time burrowing into knowledge about quality and craft: that’s admirable. But once they’ve done that, they need to climb back out again and make sure they have perspective on style. 

Sometimes in reviews like this, I worry that I concentrate too much on the negative.

Certainly, it surprises me when readers refer to a review as bad, when I felt it had both good and bad points (as almost any review, of anything, would do). 

Partly that’s because so much little fashion coverage is still fluff. But also, I think, it’s because positive points can be taken for granted. 

I want to say, therefore, that this is a really nice jacket. Orazio makes beautiful Neapolitan tailoring, with a lovely roll to the lapel, a soft clean shoulder, and good hand-finishing throughout: buttons, buttonholes, pick stitching. 

The fit is also above average for made to measure, if anything. Corduroy is a cruel material to give someone for a test garment. 

The important critical points are style and price, both of which will matter less to some people. Many will identify with Orazio’s style more than me; and others will either not care about the price or have no choice - as there is no other access to Neapolitan tailoring where they are.

I always try to write balanced reviews, but this one I feel particularly deserves to be so. 

Photography: Milad Abedi

The fabric is Holland & Sherry 187006

Also worn: PS Oxford shirt, bespoke by Luca Avitabile; mid-grey Fox flannel trousers, bespoke by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury; Edward Green Belgravia loafers; Yard-O-Led silver pen.

Stores that offer Orazio: Pauw, Oder, Michael Jondral, Tailormail, The Armoury Hong Kong, The Armoury New York, Isetan, Strasburgo, Sartorial, Uncommon, Liles Clothing, Gentleman Footwear and Artigiano.
Subscribe
Notify of
guest
175 Comments
Oldest
Newest
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Anonymous

Morning Simon

Whilst taking in your points good and bad, there are a couple of things about this jacket I really don’t like. Firstly, for my taste the lapels are a bit overpowering, and that automatically leads to the depth of collar turndown around the neck being exaggerated. I also think the back balance looks a bit short.

I’m interested to know why you put your men in in your outer breast pocket? Also, is a flannel trouser a natural choice with something so inherently casual as a cord jacket? If I was going to wear this (and it’s quite a big if) I might go with moleskin or denim, but not with flannel.

It’s also pretty overpriced isn’t it? Many could offer far more for far less, non?

Carl

The jacket looks nice even if it isnt my style. I guess its a jacket you get when you already have 10-12 different sport coats.

How would you describe the differences in handiwork compared to Saman Amel? ( I am a loyal customer to Saman but is just curious).

Gus

Not great but not bad. Geography aside, I don’t think many would be hugely satisfied with the result given the price. However, the contrast with the yellow in the foreground is great.

Anonymous

Thanks Simon
Maybe I missed it but did you provide cloth?

JTR

Maybe I’m just missing it as I go back to skim, but I don’t think you’ve done this yet. 🙂

Bob

Morning Simon – good read, and a balanced review.

What other trousers would you consider wearing with this jacket?

John

Very nice Simon, you could join Michael Portillo on Great Train Journeys with this little beauty…

Anonymous

Honestly, no…but the programmes are very good

JDV

I have two MTM Jackets from Orazio Luciano trough JMM in Paris. I was measured there during a Trip and the final jacket was sent to me without a fitting.
I’m quite pleased with it, so I ordered a second. For me it was an option to try Neapolitan Tailoring without having to travel to Napoli. I’ve also tried Neapolitan Tailoring trough two Traveling Tailors that visited my Country. Neither of them delivered a pleasing product, so I gave them away.
I have to admit that the price-structure of JMM also helps. I think I payed around EUR 1800. If it would be much more I wouldn’t have tried it.
However I find that Florentine-Tailoring suits me best. So in the meantime I stick to one Tailor in Florence, which made me around 12 jackets and suits by now.

Nevertheless I can recommend JMM if you have the opportunity to be in Paris and want to try out Neapolitan Tailoring. JM and Nicholas also happen to be very nice chaps.

Mike Smith

Good day Simon. On a different subject. I need to find a good tailor for Alterations for Suits and trousers. I reside in South Florida USA, and do not mind traveling within the United States. Thanks for your kind advice. Mike Smith.

BespokeNYC

@Mike, it’s not all that close to FL, but Sam Wazin in NYC is excellent quality

QL

Nice to read your comments JDV!

Would be interested to know your go-to tailor in Florence!

Triskel

The pink/grey combination is good, I think; I have been trying it with pink pullovers recently and though it’s a bit of a shock compared with my usual combinations, it’s a nice change. I realise that you try to be even-handed, and warn us against judging from photos, but I’m afraid that this coat, particularly the front/back balance, seems to me not one of your most successful.

Nick

Always love review articles! My point would be that the price is way too high. I think MTM is great for items that are a bit more experimental or that you would not get as much wear from, just like this jacket, because the price is lower than bespoke. But when the price is similar to many Italian bespoke makers and the likes of WS and Anthology, I can’t se how this could be justified. It seems that they are focusing on locations that have few alternatives, so perhaps if you next best option is overpriced RTW this is great value, but don’t think it makes sense in London.

CHIEF

Agree completely Nick. Seems overpriced for MTM, and I struggle to see why one would go this route rather than a similarly priced bespoke jacket. Truly only makes sense if there are a dearth of options locally, which would of course preclude London.

James Paines

have you had anything MTM from Anglo Italian, Simon? Wondering how their offering sits in relation to Orazio and Saman. Do they offer a hand padded chest/collar/lapel for example?

SR

I had a terrible experience with Ango-Italian. It’s a cheap garment made by Eduardo de Simone. The garment felt like it was made by Uniqlo.

SR

good to know, thank you. I would consider giving them another try then and the styling is great.

Anonymous

I’d be interested to know what you think of Anglo Italian MTM too. I am considering them, but am abit apprehensive as i am not aware that anyone in store has a background in garment construction. As helpful as Jake and co. are, and as much as i like their clothing (of which i have bought much), my impression is that they have a keen eye for construction and style, but do not have experience as a tailor, cutter etc. Or perhaps i shouldn’t be expecting that for MTM.

Anyway, would welcome and look forward to a review!

Paul F

Alex was the head of Kiton MTM program globally…

Anonymous

That gives confidence, thanks!

Pyc

‘Partly that’s because so much little fashion coverage is still fluff.’

‘So much’ do you mean?

Anonymous

I really like the look of this jacket. It seems to be the sort of thing you could throw on for a casual lunch or when you run out the door to meet someone for coffee – definitely with jeans. The style and color looks like something brands like J.Crew used to try to do but much less successfully. But price would be a sticking point for me.

Fatih

I’ve seen worse MTM work. The nicest thing with this jacket is the prominently wide and nicely curved barchetta style breast pocket which I’m a great fan of. But for the sake of God Orazio, make those jackets longer. This length is too Inspector-Colombo-esque hardly covering the rear.

Phil S

Simon, a bit of advice if you don’t mind. I’ve a Orazio jacket which was caught on a door handle and ripped the sleeve head, I’ve had it invisibly mended, but the results are one sleeve is shorter.

You mention getting the sleeves lengthened, how straightforward is this to do?

Thanks
Phil

Charlie

Simon does the high lapel gorge bother you? Perhaps it’s the angle of the photography, but it seems to be angled way over the back of your shoulder

Charlie

Apologies, I missed that.

The dusty pink works very well in corduroy, by the way. The texture seems to tone done the brightness. Bravo

Robin

I genuinely enjoyed reading that .
A MTM piece made with considerably handwork in a RTW factory but with a price tag of Bespoke .
It’s almost like they’re trying to cover every market .

The key issue for anyone is the price point .
I mean if you’re going to the trouble of handwork on a jacket then , at that price , why not just go the extra and make a individual pattern ?

Some of your critiques appear a little unfair . It’s pink , it’s corduroy ….. it’s never going to be easy .

The sleeves are unforgivably short and that jacket should never have been allowed out with them like that .

But as I said at start I genuinely enjoyed reading b that because it got me thinking about commissioning MTM , bespoke and all the pitfalls .

Anonymous

Simon I sent you a note challenging your suggestion that you could only get bespoke from China or India at this price point.

There are plenty of good tailors around who could make you a proper bespoke jacket at this price. I then went on to say that of course this would bring the advantage of having something that fits you properly.

Did you decide not to publish it, or did it simply not get to you?

Anonymous

I wont name them now Simon as most are closed or working in a much reduced context; so I fear some will not survive.

Happy to come back to this point when life returns to normal.

But I’ve just collected a beautiful bespoke summer jacket which only cost about 60% of yours.

Anonymous

So how about Macangus and Wainwright? Full bespoke, excellent quality. Very accessible (London).

Bruce

Ive been thinking about trying Macangus. Do you have any experience of them Simon? Noting your comment about their quality level.

Thanks

Peter

Ive got a couple of jackets from Cat and the Dandy. They offer a full bespoke service, the standard of fit and finish is high, choice of cloth is as you would expect, and the pricing is way below your pink cord. Have you reviewed them?

Anonymous

Sartoria Vergallo?

Peter

Simon I was under the impression that all their bespoke was made in London, but that some MTM was sent to India for sewing, and their RTW line was all produced there. At least this is what they have told me.

Jack

Hi Simon,

I think the jacket suits your move towards a more casual-based wardrobe, it’s a very lovely piece as the corduroy has a muting effect on the colour – the dusky pink works beautifully as an odd jacket.

Personally, I would argue that your reviews are seldom negative, rather (as you state) balanced and objective. It’s the reason I read PS, and I was so pleased to see you reference the grand majority of fashion content being puff pieces. I enjoy your explorative, genuine articles as they provide an opportunity to think similarly about my own style choices.

Menswear is wonderfully subjective, what works for one might not work for another, but that’s the essence which makes it fun.

Robin

A second comment if I may .

Why MTM ?
If a good quality RTW that is then tailored to suit works why pay excessively more ?

Yes, I accept if you’re 6ft 4 and and of ‘odd’ proportions it’s your only route.
Or if you want a particular colour not done in RTW

Otherwise , there’s is no getting around the argument of the price point .

Anonymous

Hmmm

I know plenty of people who are fortunate enough to buy RTW that seems to fit them as well as bespoke would. A tad off the sleeve or trouser, and hey presto.

Anonymous

Do you mean pretty unusual, rather than pretty unlikely?

Anonymous

Well I only ever wear bespoke because its the only way I can get stuff to fit me. Have been for years since I left school, so clearly many years worth of experience in this area. My formal wear is mainly made for me by A&S. So I think I know what fits properly. My comments were made specifically about two long standing friends who only ever wear RTW, and who are fortunate to get an “as good as bespoke” fit for a fraction of the price!!

I’m sorry you are sceptical, but perhaps you could just take my word for it rather than dismissing my contribution?

Thanks

Paul

At barely 5 ft 9 and with broad shoulders I am far from having the physique of a male model. Yet I am fortunate enough to have found, in Anglo-Italian, a RTW jacketing option that fits like the proverbial glove. It is uncanny how well their cut fits me, with just minor adjustments to sleeve length necessary. Usually the need to accommodate my upper body results in a RTW jacket that is too long for my body. I appreciate I may be in a small minority here. As to the earlier comment about Anglo-Italian MTM, I haven’t needed to try it. But I am very pleased with the quality of the jackets I have bought from them and their service has always been excellent (alterations are included in the price) so I would be very surprised if their MTM wasn’t of an equally high standard.

Robin

Not sure about you but I enjoy these sort of back and forth threads .
Your expressions being challenged and others being forthright with their points really helps clarify details .
Certainly need note of that .

On the broader point of RTW, MTM and Bespoke , I think you can never do enough to show out the pluses and minuses of each.
I would urge further articles to highlight each … certainly now as we move to more austere times .

Myles

Robin you’re spot on.

The nice thing about this website is that it is an open channel for those who are right at the beginning of their project and who benefit greatly from any guidance on the absolute basics. It equally fires up some voices who evidently have a huge knowledge and experience bank of their own to contribute, which it seems they do in the main to add to the ethos of support and a shared view of tailoring in general.

I am less positive about the “style” advice as I am of the view that it is too subjective and often becomes more of “I wouldn’t if I was you” or “I don’t agree” type comments from Simon who can, only ever, be a commentator rather than an arbitrator. That rather diminishes it’s value in my view.

Makes for interesting reading though.

Paul

I see a critical purpose of this site being a place where the informed and passionate may gather to exchange opinion on things that don’t matter much in a stricken world but give us pleasure nevertheless.

I think it’s fantastic Simon has such clear views and a highly developed personal sense of style – he doesn’t sit on the fence or preach and for that I am most grateful.

We are all unique individuals and if we present such a face to the world with confidence then we may wear whatever we like and pull it off, regardless of the length of our jackets, widths of our sleeves and price of our tailors.

Many visitors to this site swear by bespoke and get as much from the experience as the item of clothing that results. But if I can get good RTW then I am entirely satisfied. I simply don’t have the time for the fittings and I would undoubtedly be disappointed by the smallest imperfection in finishing or service – something I know my personal desire for perfection would find hard to accept after investing the emotional energy on the journey.

But that’s just my view and I completely respect the different standpoints of everyone here.

Rob Mack

The coat does not fit properly. Was there miss communication or did the tailor simply do whatever he wanted to? The tailor works for the client, always make sure that they
remember that. It you do not feel that your wishes will be honored exactly, go to another tailor.

SR

Simon, I have been waiting years for your review of Orazio. I have a few sport coats from them. The fit is inconsistent and I made tweaks to each as I ordered the next, and non of them are perfect. But that is just the nature of MTM. It’s hard to get the PERFECT fit. But the back of your garment just doesn’t look great. Bottom line for me is that Orazio is just too expensive for the product. Better to use a lower end Neopolitan tailor, like Mina (NSM) or Tofani for a similar price.

Roger Seegobin

I will have to agree with S.R that is a poor fitting jacket period, also that is why I don’t like outside pockets, both hands inside of them just deconstructed the entire garment, not a very nice picture.
Roger.

E L

I find the style quite nice: I think it flatters your chest and shoulders quite well. The fit may not be perfect, but I think the jacket looks better on you than many of your jackets that fit you much better. The pink cord is also far more wearable than one would expect.

With regards to price, perhaps the price isn’t so great if you live in a city with a bunch of options. I think it is important for people (commenters/readers) to remember, though, that most people don’t live in cities with a bunch of options. Even in New York which has many options it’s not like one can get something better for cheaper.

Rondell Humphreys

A decade ago I bought a Ralph Lauren chocolate brown corduroy jacket for $8.50 at a local thrift shop. The price tag was still attached. Corduroy may have zero drape and inevitable wrinkles , but it is such a supremely comfortable fabric, and as your article illustrates can be very stylish as well.
I find your reviews consistently well balanced Simon, and especially appreciated today’s article. Northern Nova Scotia was the location of a tragedy the past weekend which made international news. Your Orazio Luciano jacket piece was a pleasant diversion.

Simon

Hi Simon,

I really enjoyed reading this review. I have several pieces by Orazio, and I think your « points of concerns » if I can refer tot hem this way are things that I can relate to. It is not a true bespoke, but definitely better than other makers out there charging twice the price. Anyway, my question is with respect to your comment when you say that you added space in the back twice and it still feels tight. Do you mean at the junction of the armhole and the back? I do feel like this is where I relate the most with your comment as I have always found the armhole to be so high and the back so narrow that it does feel tight.

Anonymous

Thanks for this thoughtful review, Simon. My experience of having two jackets MTM from Orazio are quite similar, with the big caveat that they did only one follow up fittings, communication after that was non-existent, and so problems remain unresolved. Also, the pricing via the Armoury is 20-25% higher than what you quote. I was frankly underwhelmed with the whole experience and have concluded it’s not worth it. One is much better off paying a bit more for a proper bespoke from any number of great Neapolitans than the MTM program from Orazio. Or getting a less expensive MTM that fits equally well as Orazio.

Simon

I’d be curious to know how OraZio compares to Dalcuore given the very similar price point. Thoughts?

Anonymous

Dalcuore MTM.

David

Hi Simon, could you elaborate on your comment? What exactly makes you say Orazio is “certainly better” than Dalcuore bespoke? Thank you

Andreas

I really like the style and the shorter/slimmer than usual fit; seems like the right jacket for someone who usually wears Boglioli and decides to take it up a notch.

Adam

If this is a functional buttonhole on your sleeve, I’m assuming they would need to convert the cuff from a 1 button to a 3 or 4 button to extend the sleeve much longer than it currently is. Or I guess you could lengthen it from the sleevehead if there’s enough fabric left up there, but both options sound like a lot of work.

Anonymous

Buttonholes are “working” rather than “functional”. If functional was the right description, it would need to be characterised as functioning.

The opposite of working, when it comes to buttonholes, is sham.

Adam

I wouldn’t say that my buttonholes work very hard, but they do seem to function well enough.

Simon, any chance you can share some thoughts on the number of buttons on a sleeve? I’m commissioning a sports jacket in a navy herringbone tweed. Patch pockets, 3 roll 2, fairly casual – but it will be my first proper separate jacket. I really like the look of a single button on sleeves, but I wonder if it’s something that’s will be distinctive enough to stand out. Once travel restrictions ease up I’ll be having my first fitting and I’m sure the staff at the tailor shop will have a strong opinion about it, but I’d love to hear your thoughts anyways. Thanks!

Dan

Simon, thanks for this review as I have been waiting for it to be posted. I did consider trying OL, but I felt the price was too high especially at the Armoury. I have bought shirts from OL’s online shop and was not impressed. However, I do like their ties especially this light blue grenadine tie I got off their online shop.

I look forward to the JMM post as I I have thought of trying them out. However, I find JMM can be difficult to arrange an appointment in NYC as they do not post when they are coming to the the USA. Do you know if and where they post their visits ahead of time?

UsualSuspects

I have tried it too with the lovely team at Jean-Manuel Moreau.
Great fitting process with Nicolas, but in the end, the product that Orazio delivers is way overpriced.
Same issues with the length of the sleeves btw… …on a windowpane, this was a problem we could never solve.
Also, buttons were not the ones we chose.
Much too expensive, and not because of Jean-Manuel, who does great job and provides top customer service.
It’s just Orazio’s product which seems to be over estimated, at least to my eyes.
I won’t give it another try.

Anon

It seems like getting sleeves lengthened and different buttons are the easiest things to fix. And these are the things that JMM communicates to OL. how can you exonerate JMM on button choice and sleeve length? BTW, any tailor can correct these things. Also, with respect to price, someone should have informed you that you were out of your price range before you started the process, don’t you think?

USUALSUSPECTS

In my case, seeves problem was not that they were too short, but too long, with the buttonholes already opened. Since windowpane pattern does not allow to shorten from the shoulder, it was not possible to get this right.
I was never out of my price range, no.
I sometimes go for much more in bespoke.
I’m just saying that for me, this price is not justified for the quality delivered. Lot of the finishings could be neater. (should be…)
In my opinion, there is just too much of a gap between this and what you can get on the bespoke options which start at just a few hundreds more.

Anon

Since we are waxing anecdotes, I once had an OL MTM suit made through the Armoury and the shoulders were uneven and uncorrectable. I didn’t have to say a word, Mark worked it out with Pino and Pino sent me another brand new jacket in 4 weeks. It was perfect, but the buttons were incorrect and Mark had the buttons replaced in NY. So, you should have pursued your complaint with JMM. Isn’t this why you go through third-parties?

I get most of my bespoke through the Armoury. Where exactly do you get this quality bespoke for a “few hundred” more than Orazio? Is this another case where the name of this great tailor cannot be divulged? No sarcasm intended, but I bet readers here, including me, would LOVE to hear of this quality bespoke tailor.

While I like hearing constructive stories about tailors that help others make tailoring decisions, it’s patently unfair to take unsubstantiated cheap shots at tailors with unfalsifiable allegations of incompetence, especially where the tailor cannot defend the claim. I do, however, believe those stories should be printed. But I only remind readers to take such stories in the context in which they are presented – unsubstantiated allegations.

Finally, I think PS reviews should have a separate section for those who want to complain about prices. It’s kind of boring, unconstructive and completely personal.

USUALSUSPECTS

Thank you for saying my comment is boring, but i am only giving my humble opinion on Orazio’s pricepoint, and the fact he did not meet my expectations for this amount of money.
I have tried many others and thought value was better.
To answer your question, just for an example Gennaro Formosa made me a perfect jacket in a very difficult Porter and Harding cloth for 2500.
I am simply telling how i feel, based on facts.
You may well have had fantastic experiences with OL at the Armoury and i am glad for you. No need to criticize those who relate their own true experience on a less positive side. As far as i remember, this is a review, not an Instagram post where everything is always “amazing” “beautiful” or “incredible”

Anon

Usualsuspects, please accept my apology. I didn’t intend to insult you or anyone else with my comment regarding price point complaints. The point that I was trying to make is that price comparisons are not pertinent to non-price conscious buyers. In any event, it’s a calculus that is wholly personal and easy for each of us to make on our own; with much of the information being available in this very publication.
The other point I was trying to make was that this blog’s primary purpose is to provide readers with a professional opinion on the topics explored. It’s backed up by well-respected journalistic integrity. Many of the other critiques and praises alike from readers are somewhat meaningless although possibly entertaining. No, it’s not Instagram, but nor is it everyone’s personal opportunity to rattle off unfalsifiable insults directed at tailors unable to defend themselves. When a tailor agrees to make a garment for this publication, she or he also agrees to this publication’s critique. So, I just think that readers should give careful thought and consideration when levying allegations based on “facts” (of which only they know to be facts) of ineptitude at tailors on such a significant industry forum. Such claims have the power to irreparably harm and damage reputations and businesses. I think JMM would be surprised to hear that someone left his company unsatisfied. And if he did, I find that a “fact” hard to believe based on his high level of esteem. This publication has a garment coming from JMM and I suppose we can gauge your poor experience vs. PS’s.

Finally, if you paid 2500 for a bespoke Formosa, you paid far below the prices normally charged, although it is cheap bespoke. Suffice it to say Simon’s review of Formosa shows why those paying market price, which is closer to 500 Euros difference from OL MTM, may be better off going with MTM than bespoke, in fact, this is what Simon recommended to the final commenter in the Formosa review based on his experience. I hope this clears up my points and I am sorry for dispargging your comment.

USUALSUSPECTS

Thank you Anon, and thanks to Simon for this great review and giving us the opportunity to express our opinions.
Again, my point was not to cause harm to Orazio’s proposition.
I am just confirming, just like Simon said in the very first lines of this review, that’s it’s more expensive than several MTM and bespoke options covered on PS.
And that -to my eyes- the make could be neater for this price, regardless of the silly anecdotes of the sleeves and buttons…
I am not saying it’s bad either.
This is just a customer point of view and I want to insist on that point.
That’s important, because I don’t know exactly what is your position in this “industry”.
You seem to know very well OL and the Armoury to defend their side so strongly.
Perhaps you have some interests with them and you could tell us more about it, and in which case I do understand you think it’s unfair to be critical.
I was just giving a mitigated feeling regarding the price that’s all.
I rarely open up my mouth to do so but I thought I could this time, as I do think it’s helpful for everyone to sometimes hear something else than “everything is awesome”.
No hard feelings.
Have a good week everyone.

Anon

‘No hard feelings at all. I have no connection to OL or the Armoury other than being a long-time customer of both. And from being customer, I know Orazio and Pino very well. I also know JM and it just seems quite unusual that any of these gentlemen would allow someone to leave their businesses unhappy with such a major problem. I’ve never heard of any such thing in all my years of patronage. That’s all to it. I am a hedge fund lawyer and I live mostly and work mostly in NYC and periodically live and work in Paris.

Noel

Hi Simon,

Can one wear this type of light coloured jacket in the evening (after sunset) during summer? Or would it really be restricted to daytime.

Paul Boileau

Thanks for the review. The cloth colour reminds me of Nantucket red beloved by the Ivy crowd. The jacket seems to have a few issues or style choices not to my taste (i’m being diplomatic). You had better like the house style if you’re going down this route as I assume there is little option to te(/a)mper within the MTM model. I looked at the Massura web-site and Moritz certainly seems to like the bum-freezer jacket! It seems to me that the business model is pitched at a difficult and competitive sector of the market. The price is around the level of entry level bespoke without the options/ fit that entails but with a similar wait time. It may have more handwork that other MTM options but personally I would sacrifice that for better fit with a bespoke option. YMMV.

tdang93

On the point of the high gorge, I’d argue that it’s a feature that’d suit guys with really sloped shoulders and want to wear tailoring more casually, i.e. unbuttoned jacket with minimal structure, jeans or linen trousers, open-necked shirt.

Rolf

Maybe it suits guys with ‘really sloped shoulders’, but if you have square shoulders (like I have), the extra-high gorge makes you look like Luca Brasi being garroted.

Ravi Singh

Simon – great review and really well articulated in terms of what you like and are less enthusiastic on.
I must also commend you on the choice if the grey flannels with the dusty pink.. it would have been too easy and tempting to use a tan/khaki/cream trouser but this has really shown how one can use different combinations to still look stylish and ultimately less showy.

Brett

Simon,
You mention that you don’t wear pocket squares much any more. Why so? It seems to me that you would as you move away from ties, if only to add some interest or to “finish” an outfit.

ANM

Simon,

I realize that great tailors are adept at working with a range of fabrics, but do you think that some fabrics are perhaps beyond the abilities of even the best craftsmen to turn into a great finished garment? Fine wool, silk, etc., have qualities (hand, drape, etc.) that are inherent in both the fibre structure, as well as weave.

Could this be one of the core reasons for any issues one would have with a corduroy jacket?

Matt

I think the quality of your Orazio experience depends on who you are purchasing the garment from. For Example, my Orazio Jackets have come from Jean Manuel Moreau or Nicola Radano(has since left Orazio). Both did great jobs fitting me and wouldn’t rest until the garment was as close to my expectations as possible. I’m not sure this person you went with was the right person.

Anony

I’ve been getting OL clothing through the Armoury for 6 years now often communicating with Orazio, Pino and members of their staff. As far as I know, Nicola Radano has never worked for OL or has ever been associated with OL. Once he travelled with OL to NY to present some of his ties I believe but wasn’t associated with OL in any way as far as I understood. Also, I didn’t know he was a tailor, but that interesting if he is one.

Anonymous

Arigato Simon!

What size shoe horn would you buy if you had to buy only one?

I’m a bit shorter 5’3. How do you determine what length you need?

Do you put your shoes on kneeling, sitting down, or standing up?

Anonymous

How long is the mid-length?

Martin

Is this your most casual jacket? I think it looks great, but find the trousers are too formal. I am not go-to-hell enough to suggest madras shorts and navy boat shoes, but don’t you think navy chinos could work?

Anonymous

Navy and pink is a classic combination. Ever seen a Leander Club tie?

I would have no hesitation to wear navy chinos with a pink jacket BUT it would be linen and not cord, with a white OCBD, and sockless with dark brown suede loafers. In Taormina. Drinking a Negroni.

Martin

Steve Hitchcock is looking very dapper in a pink jacket with navy trousers in one of your previous posts.

You clearly don’t like blue trousers Simon, but why do you therefore advise your readers not to wear them?

Matt H

I actually really like the style on you, even if I don’t like the cloth. I own a couple of Orazio Luciano jackets which are among my favourites – but they have somewhat narrower lapels, which I prefer. Orazio do some crazy-wide lapels.

emptym

Looks very good to me. What kind of construction was used, if you don’t mind my asking (canvas or no, padding or no, etc)? Was the fabric washed before cutting? It has a nice, soft look that makes it seem like it was washed. I’m planning to have a corduroy jacket made and am debating whether to get it deconstructed so that it can be washed or made the usual way with canvasing, etc.

emptym

Thanks Simon. I’ll porbably go the way you did.

Jan

Thanks Simon. Interesting as always. I have two MTM suits and a jacket from Orazio through the Armoury and I like them lot. I think the style is best suited for a sports jacket (or perhaps a casual suit). The shortness and overall Neapolitan style works really well with the odd jacket combo / jeans etc. It is MTM though so the fit is imperfect and at their price point, I am not likely to go for it again. The fit of my MTM anglo Italian jacket is really good by the way, without any fitting, just one session of taking measurements. Haven’t noticed any issues with the quality of the make. Maybe I was just lucky with that one!

Jan

Just to add something after another year of wear and coming across this article again: I think the cloth is crucial for this style to work. My OL sports jacket in a vintage cashmere is the most comfortable and best looking thing I own. The OL suit I have in Hardy Minnis Fresco is nice but always feels a bit tight and short. The OL suit I have in H&S crispaire is right in the middle: comfortable but not a lot of space and certainly on the more modern / short end of the spectrum. I think the fabric , colour and possibly also your particular build (shape of the shoulders and seat etc) make this jacket look very tight and high and, frankly, uncomfortable but that’s not my experience with OL at all as indicated above.

Patrick

Simon, I enjoyed reading this review and I like the jacket. Regarding styling and personal preference, you noted the slim, short cut and a few readers have weighed in on its length. Would you mind sharing more of your thoughts about the length specifically and whether or not you’re satisfied with this aspect? I’m curious, particularly given that it’s a casual jacket. Thanks.

Anonymous

Simon re working /functional sleeve buttons do you feel it is appropriate to leave the bottom button undone as some do or is this deemed showy and best to leave done up/closed?

Myles

Not sure I agree with showy and silly. It’s all about personal preference and there is no right or wrong. Like having a propelling pencil in your breast pocket.

And how can you say “few that had bespoke ever left them undone”? You make it sound like a fact.

In France and Italy it is very common to see not one, but two buttons undone on bespoke.

Martin

I’ve just been prompted to look at the Benson and Clegg website based on the piece you have written about them this morning, and was shocked to see a picture of Oli with two of his four cuff buttons undone. He is evidently much is need of your expertise. Or perhaps he agrees with Myles.

Ovlov

Gday Simon,

Thanks for the interesting review. I love the look of OL’s house style but do not have the physique for otr , and living in the middle Woop Woop, Straya, my options for neapolitan tailoring are nonexistant. I was however, just checking out the OL website today and saw that they are currently offering a “Digital Trunk Show” to meet with Pino online for an MTM order. Have you heard any talk of this new option? I have only ever heard of online mtm being offered by much cheaper, poor quality/fitting companies. I would assume though that OL would not want to put their name to an mtm service that doesn’t work.

Ovlov

Thanks Simon. I’m still agonizing over whether to take the dive here. Sinply because i do love this neopolitan style and it is impossible to find in Australia as far as I know. I was hopibg you might be able to clear a couple of things up for me though.
I note in sone of your interactions in the comments you have discussed the difficulty in comparing OL mum to bespoke because it is saddled with the drawback of being made in what is essentially a rtw factory. My understanding from other articles around the net is that OL is quite different from other mtm and rtw in that it is still made entirely by hand. Is this not true? Or am I missing something. To me it sound like the only difference at all between OL and bespoke is that they won’t cut a pattern for you.

Also do you (or any of the other fine folk who read these forums) know of any other similar Neapolitan options for Australians?

Thanks Again for all your great content.

david

Simon,

Thank you for the review!
Would you be able to share the fabric info?

I’ve been looking for an odd jacket in corduroy to make up, and I love the uniqueness yet subtlety of the color.

Thanks

Tomas

I like the color I think it suits you well.

Would love to see a short video of you walking around with it so we can see your garments moving and truly appreciate the fit. This goes for your whole wardrobe!

David

Thank you Simon!

After looking at the just the swatch – I absolutely agree with you that without seeing it made up I would never dare attempt at making something out of this fabric.

Appreciate the inspiration

Anonymous

Hello, I have a noob question about finishing on a jacket. How can one judge it except the obvious points such as the pick stitching and the handmade button holes. It’s not about the benefits of hand made vs machine made but purely on aesthetics. With shoes it’s very obvious when you compare something like a Yohei Fukuda vs a Crockett and Jones for example

Anonymous

Thank you Simon for the very detailed answer!

Richard Davidson

Just wanted to say you always put different colours together so well. Never generic or typical. I’m interested in style but not to the technical level that is often explored but I enjoy your site for the reference points to consider.

Raj

Keep up the good work Simon. You are the best writer / thinker in the men’s attire space.

I had an idea:

What about an expose on materials used for shoes? For example, is lizard a good material? How does it age over time? What are the drawbacks? Etc…

Maybe showing the different grades of crocodile used by various makers.

There is not really good information out there on the topic.

Thanks.

shem

Hi simon, how does your wife see your expenditure with regards clothing? perhaps she may be more accommodating as your job involves reviewing clothing but I’m curious how women perceive their better half dropping enormous sums of money on tailored clothing. I understand there is a range of spenders amongst women but a fair bit I know (including my wife) are contend with buying clothes which are cheap and last relatively long e.g. uniqlo). I only have two sports coat(ring jacket RTW) but my wife was shocked that each cost over $1k.

J

Simon, I may be misunderstanding this, but below you say Anglo-Italian does not have a hand-padded lapel. Though in an older post you suggested they did: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/05/anglo-italian-jake-grantham-and-alex-pirounis-open-in-london.html

Is this something that has changed with their move to a new MTM operation? Looking forward to your review of them!

William Blackstone

Doesn’t Orazio actually make the suits and jackets offered by Saman Amel?

Anonymous

Hi Simon
I have one RTW jacket from OL,Fortunately,it‘s fit to me。
about the price,I think RTW is more reasonable than MTM
I had try many brand‘s RTW,like Canali,CARUSO,the fit was good,but when I move like rise my hand,the blance was bad。
I had try the ISAIA,unfortunately it doesn’t fit to me,it is too small than other RTW。
So if like the house cut from OL,and RTW is work to you,I think it will be the good choice, lower price and good balanced is the point.

Hayden Kim

Hi, Mr simon. it’s a nice review.
actually, I’m considering Orazio MTO suit, and i’d like to ask you for advice about the Drop of suit jacket.
will you recommend 8 drop rather than 9 drop when it comes to Suit jacket?
i tried 7 and 8 drop, 7 was too loose for me, and 8 was elegant silhouette with a little bit slim feeling.
do you think 9 drop will be too slim and it doesn’t balance with orazio’s wide lapel?

Hayden Kim

Thank you so much 🙂