Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakishman day

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If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at.

So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in time for Pitti this year. (In a Dalcuore house Cerruti cloth, so not available bespoke elsewhere currently.)

Darker shades of brown and green tend to be the most versatile for casual jackets, and often with a pattern so neither shirt nor trousers need one to avoid the whole looking too plain.

Having said that, this check is slightly louder than I would normally go for. It's a fairly strong brown, with a black glen check and light blue overcheck.

I normally tend towards subtler checks because I want things that are more versatile, and indeed could be worn in many modern offices.

(Not just fashion events, such as the Dalcuore/Rake breakfast pictured here. Most of these outfits, lovely as they are, would be too much for those offices.)

Given the strength of the check, I wore plain and fairly subtle things elsewhere: an old denim shirt from Al Bazar in Milan, beige cotton trousers, and brown suede Baudoin & Lange loafers.

The denim shirt makes the outfit a little less corporate, to my eye.

It is perhaps suited to a more creative office, but could be replaced by a poplin button-down in somewhere more professional.

In an office like that, the handkerchief could be removed, socks worn, and the loafers traded for something more solid and Goodyear-welted.

I wear this denim shirt quite frequently, even though the collar isn’t perfect without a tie.

I’ve had it so long that the cuffs and collar have started to fray, and that old-money aesthetic of good-things-worn-to-death really appeals to me.

Of all the ways to avoid the fussy and stuffy associations of tailoring, this has to be one of the most effective. But it has to be subtle - you don’t want the thing falling apart, and ripped jeans don't count.

I’m particularly pleased with the trousers - a relatively heavy cotton from Drapers (4838, 420g) - because it's often hard to find cotton trousers that have enough body to hold a crease.

The Italians mostly offer lightweights that wrinkle after an hour or two, while the English aesthetic is more for soft cords and moleskins.

These are a nice mid-point, stiff to start with but softening quickly, and maintaining that crease. And of course cotton trousers are easier to wear with casual outfits that most things in wool.

The handkerchief is from Drake’s. I think there is something about the pattern - more usually seen on cotton neckerchiefs - that suits the aesthetic of a denim shirt.

Glasses are from Eyevan in Japan, bought at the lovely Ludovic Lunetier in Brussels.

Most Aviator-style frames like this are too big on my face, but this is narrower and the lenses rounder.

The sunglasses have featured regularly before: the Starsky model from Meyrowitz in London. I like the fact this frame is unusual in its narrowness, when most go the other way and are oversized.

(It’s actually correct for my pupillary distance, but of course that matters far less with sunglasses.)

The canvas tote bag is from Trunk - made by Ichizawa Hanpu. They don’t offer the same style now, but there is a slightly different model in navy, olive and yellow.

And Baudoin & Lange Sagans on the feet, as mentioned, in oak brown. Just the most comfortable thing to wear on a hot day.

Also pictured in these images (discounting the portrait at top) are:

  • Douglas Cordeaux, Fox Brothers (green mohair suit)
  • Ethan Newton, Bryceland’s (grey jacket and beret)
  • Kenji Cheung, Bryceland’s (cream jacket and block-stripe tie)
  • Wei Koh, The Rake (oatmeal jacket with burgundy windowpane check)
  • George Wang, Brio (blue herringbone jacket and T-shirt)

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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The number of the trousers fabric seems to be missing. Any hint for the Sportcoat-fabric?
I have quite a similar Sportcoat in Ariston-cloth for winter, which I love. Would be wonderful to have a summerversion of that.


Hi Simon

Great jacket and excellent overall.
Could you provide the cloth reference for the trousers?


Hi Simon, I think the details on the Drapers cotton are still in draft mode? They look very, very interesting. Apart from updating the weight, do you mind sharing bunch and who made them?
I’ve been trying different cottons for tailored trousers, but as you say they usually hold a crease quite poorly. I find they also tend to bag quite a lot in knees and rear, due to the softness of the fabric.

Lovely outfit overall, that denim shirt is a true testament on how things get better with age.


Nice jacket but I think the jacket you wore to the symposium is a lot nicer.


Definitely looking forward to the review of the symposium jacket. As you say, subtler. A cracking fabric .

W. Sickinger

Odd colour and pattern for a summer jacket. Seems more autumnal.

Dan G

Curious why you decided on flap pockets as opposed to patch pockets on this jacket (which seems to be your usual)?


Simon – are you happy with the style of this coat? Frankly, it looks somewhat bland and uninspired relative to some of your other pieces.


The coat appears to go fairly straight up-to-down, reflecting a boxier cut than usual for bespoke. The lapels (particularly in the first and seventh photos) also appear somewhat listless. Appreciate the fact that pics can only show so much, but I’ve noticed the same (in varying degrees) with some of my Neapolitan pieces as well.


Which invisible socks do you use?
Mine keep slipping off the heal!

Adam Jones

I used to use Falke but i found they were the worst for loosing elasticity and slipping off over time. I have had some very good early results with Uniqlo ones


If you are talking about summer weight clothing, why do you refer to the “English aesthetic” being more soft cords and mole skins? These simply cannot be considered as summer trouserings.


I’m glad you mentioned keeping the crease on trousers. I asked my tailor to stitch the crease on a pair of trousers I had made last year. I must say I am pleased with the result. Fabrics have become lighter and softer. Creases just do not hold as they once did with heavier fabrics. I think this is one reason trousers widths became smaller. If you can keep a pressed crease, trousers will not look overly wide or sloppy. But if the crease disappears within minutes one way to compensate the loss of shape is with less width. Has anyone else tried stitching the crease and been pleased with result?


Hmm….maybe you had to be there but evereyone looks overdressed. If it were a garden party (with ladies in attendence) then a true level of formality would apply. But a group of guys hanging out in a casual outdoor environment requires some modification to this code, otherwise it looks as if the focus was to dress to impress (never advisable as subtlety and reserve go out the window). That being said, though I don’t like the fustiness of the check, nor the shade (too dark a brown for summer – Sickinger was correct) you are the best dressed as the tone and formality of outfit is exact to the occassion (saved by the denim shirt and wonderful trousers!). Everyone else looks as if they are going to, or had just arrived from, another event.


They were going to another event – Pitti Uomo…


Loving that jacket, especially the width of the lapels. May I inquire as to their width (knowing that all things are relative, and all people are different sizes, and structured vs unstructured shoulders etc)?

And though you mentioned that the jacket is slightly louder than what you normally go for, I wonder if in a few years it might be one of those pieces you end up wearing more often than you think. Time will tell I suppose.


I really like this bag, especially the paper lunchbag style fold. Unfortunately, the new trunk model doesn’t do this or have one in cream. Any idea where to get your model.


What pen do you have tucked into your bag?


I simply don’t understand the gap between your buttoning point and the top of your trousers.
On this jacket the gap appears to be about 4”, and the pocket flaps also seem to be above the top of your trousers.
My trousers come up about 1” below my belly button, and my jackets button about 1” above it.
What’s going on with yours?


But surely it all revolves around your belly button?


Actually I always thought that your tummy button was the anchor point for fixings as it is the simplest way of identifying your natural waistline.
So a bit below for trousers and a bit below for buttoning makes perfect sense.
Not sure therefore that I understand your reply.


Great jacket Simon.
Love the cloth, colour and cut .
I must say if anything could tempt me over to the dark (Italian) side it would be Dalcuore. They look to do a nice relaxed cut, with ‘man sized’ lapels and a great drape.
Personally I think the pattern is great for summer and your decision not to go with patch pockets was the correct one. The patch breast pocket always looks wrong to my eye and although, in this instance, I’d probably have commissioned side patch pockets somehow your decision not to somehow seems correct. Perhaps it’s the pattern.
The other elements are also great. I’m not usually a fan of beige trousers but here they are just perfect and the vintage denim shirt is just the thing.
I also think that this jacket will prove to be very versatile and going forward, it would be good to see you take some of these anchor pieces and dress them in different ways to demonstrate this.
Some of your compatriots look to be trying a little too hard. The gentlemen in the beret looks to be auditioning for a bit part in ‘Allo Allo’ whilst the man in the chalk stripe and hat is clearly going for a part in a ‘Jazz Age’ movie.
That said, as a previous scribe said. The whole thing could do with some glamour and having the ladies along would have shown the clothes in the context of a real garden party whereas this looks like a loud of guys dressed up with nowhere to go.
That said, the main point is clearly to show the Dalcuore outfit and it looks great. Jason King also loves it !

Don Clarkin

Simon, I also have a difficult time finding aviators that are not too large for my face. I tend to lean towards a clubmaster shape or something like a persol 714. Can you recommend any other aviators like the pair you are wearing that are not overly large? I was unable to locate the exact pair you are wearing.

Harri P

I had a similar sports jacket (of Loro Piana cloth if I remember it right) made by Enzo and Roberto Ciardi last summer and I’ve been a struggling a little bit with combining it with trousers and shirts. Thus, I’d like to thank you very much for this post as I see that a light blue shirt works very well with the colours and the pattern of the jacket. The greenish pocket square in turn provides a nice finishing touch to the overall appearance. I think even a turquoise one would work quite well.


Hi Simon,

Do you have any recommended suit fabric shop in London to go to?


Hi Simon,

This jacket is such a great showcase of Neapolitan soft tailoring – is it quarter or completely unlined? I am also guessing that both the canvas and fabric are lightweight? And lastly, does the jacket have some extra fabric in the chest for a subtle swell? It makes your chest look more masculine. I like the more classic fit on the back and sleeves compared to the skin tight style you see nowadays!


Do you know what type of canvas Neapolitan tailors use to achieve that level of softness? Is it just a super lightweight floating horse hair one?


Just curious, how would you feel with a higher gorge – let’s say somewhere a tad lower than your Saman Amel MTM LP jacket?


Simon, I would like to get a nice jacket made but confess that I find the cost involved a little prohibitive. Nonetheless I have been weighing up getting someone to make one up in the Caccioppoli jackets 380101 that was included in your summer cloths article. In terms of getting something made, is it just as simple as contacting the maker of choice and asking if they stock the cloth in question? Based on your positive review of your Saman Amelia jacket I was thinking of trying them (also not as expensive as some other options), but would be grateful for any other suggestions.



Hi Simon

Are the cotton trousers flat fronted or pleated?
I came across this bunch about a year ago and the trousers I had made were really excellent. About to try some other shades


Hi Simon,

I noticed there are fewer back shots of jackets, and was wondering if the back on this Dalcuore SC is considered a “clean” or drapey fit. Do the backs of your Solitos and Caliendos look like this Dalcuore jacket? Hard for me to tell based on the pictures here and the Caliendo pics on his IG of your oatmeal LP SC.

I’m set on having a little more drape in my commissions instead of going for a clean fit, and wanted to have several picture references to show to tailors.

Oh and lastly, do Italians incorporate drape in the shoulders? Maybe Panico? I think you said that they mostly cut close shoulders but wasn’t sure if drape is commonly added there.


I remember reading somewhere about adding a bit of fullness in the shoulder blade area, but that may apply to the actual English drape cut


Oh I see! Thanks so much for the explanation!


Simon, aren’t your trousers just a bit short?


Hi Simon,

Were the trousers made by Dalcuore as well and do they offer the fabric Drapers (4838, 420g) or did you purchase the fabric separately?

kind regards



Mr. Simon, I need your help. I will traveling to Naples this summer for a period of two weeks and would like to visit some outstanding tailors there. I am looking to completely redo my wardrobe. I hear that Pommella and Ambrosi are very well regarded when it comes to trousers. I am looking at Dalcoure for jackets for the casual, but refined style. can you recommend any others that I should look at, or stay away from? Your help is much appreciated.


Yes, but I can extend my stay as needed. Also, don’t some of the tailors travel to the states?


Hi Simon,

Please could you advise what the cost of the trouser were for the heavy cotton from Drapers (4838), 420g?

tony K

Thanks for your input Simon. I will be visiting both Pommella and Dalcoure while they are here in the states and then have a second fitting while I am in Naples. Your input is appreciated, thank you.


Hi Simon,

Is the colour of the trousers towards the cream shade or similar to the Holland and sherry cavalry twill which you have in a pale beige. I had a look at the cavalry twill but it seems more towards light brown.




Up to what temperature do you wear such cotton trousers? Are they wearable when it is really hot?


Hi Simon,
with ref to the Drapers 420g cotton used for these trousers: Would you consider that cotton for a summer suit, even in warmer climate? Or, would you go for something like the 9oz H&S used for your Caliendo suit?


Are the trousers in cream colour?
I see something similar in the Drapers Cotton Deluxe Bunch No. 27000. Is this bunch similar?