Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches.
This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date.
So instead, we are introducing here the first of a parallel series that will look at the bunches available at the time of publication, and make a few personal recommendations.
The Guide to Cloth can remain a static reference tool, while these shorter pieces will be published and then updated every six months to two years - in line with the bunches.
The different mills and merchants vary in what they update, and how often.
Most re-issue and refresh a bunch every 2-3 years. This might be a small update, a complete overhaul, or a retiring of the bunch.
The Italian mills tend to be more seasonal than their British and North European counterparts. Italian bunches are more often completely changed, and some are intended to only be available for a single season (Spring/Summer or Autumn/Winter).
It is these seasonal collections that we will cover in this first piece, and update every six months.
All the other bunches out there will be collected together by type - linens, or tweeds - over the next few months. They will then also be regularly updated.
The Italian seasonal bunches covered below have all come out sometime in the past couple of months, and will be replaced after the summer.
This obviously doesn’t leave much time to have something made, but this is the mill schedule and there's nothing we can do about that.
At the very least, it avoids that situation where a friend has something made and you don’t see it until August, by which time the cloth has run out.
Our coverage gives an overall sense of each bunch (to indicate, perhaps, whether it’s worth seeking out) and then makes personal recommendations of individual cloths (which I know readers always welcome).
We have focused on the bigger mills, which readers are most likely to see at their tailors. And of course this is only a fraction of mills’ full collections (offered to RTW brands) and of the mills themselves, many of whom don’t offer cut lengths to tailors.
I do hope you like it, and find it useful. Do let us know any feedback, as this series will doubtless evolve over the next year.
Thank you to all the mills for providing their bunches, imagery, and answering our many questions.
Caccioppoli
Caccioppoli jackets 3801
Italians come into their own with summer jacketings, using sophisticated colours and mixes of linen, silk and wool that the English rarely match.
The Caccioppoli summer jacketings bunch is usually one of the best in this regard, and is updated every Spring.
At the back, however, there are also some herringbones and plain weaves that use bouclé yarns - in a mix of polyamide with linen or cotton.
These are visually very attractive - almost a summer equivalent of a donegal tweed. And while some will dislike the polyamide, it is the most practical fibre to use in a weave like this - the only thing that can give such a loose, ragged weave any body.
Caccioppoli suits 3803
The English are more competitive when it comes to summer suits than summer jacketings, particularly heavier high-twist cloths.
But often the Italians can be better on colour - such as brown-tinged greys that feel a little more casual.
Caccioppoli cotton and linen 3805
Although this bunch is updated annually, there are more consistent cloths in it than the seasonal suitings or jacketings.
A dozen or so colours in plain-weave 10.5oz linen, for example, and the same in cotton twills.
If you like lightweight linens - not minding how much more they crease than the heavier Irish versions - then there are some good options.
Loro Piana
Loro Piana does two bunches in Spring/Summer that are strictly seasonal. These are produced in small runs and aim to sell out by the end of the season, even before.
They are usually shown on stacks of cards, rather than bound bunches, and often have the more interesting colours and fibre mixes of the Loro Piana collection. They are Proposte Abiti (suits) and Proposte Giacche (jackets).
Proposte Giacche Spring-Summer 2018
The fibre mixes in the Loro Piana jacketing bunch include the classic wool/silk/linens as well as silk/wools, silk/cashmeres and pure wools.
In general, the first has the best balance of lightness, body and breathability. Cashmere prioritises softness over body, while silk adds lustre.
Of the brighter colours perhaps 676001 - a strong blue softened by greys.
For example the grey/green of 676011 or brown/blue of 676016. The latter has a nice windowpane version as well - 676026.
Proposte Abiti Spring-Summer 2018
There are quite a lot of checks in these summer suitings, largely done in wool/silk/linen mixes rather than full wool (although 71% wool here rather than 49% in some of the jacketings).
Also worth highlighting is a slightly darker version of solaro (677016) with a small herringbone.
Uniti is actually four ranges in one bunch, all plains and worth a look for lightweight suitings. Wish, meanwhile, is all Super 170s wool - very luxurious in feel, with plains, checks and stripes. And Events is silks, velvets and other things designed for evening wear.)
Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna
Zegna often produces the most richly illustrated bunches, with swatches alongside images of the cloths made up on models.
The preview or ‘Anteprima’ book - here for Spring 2018 - is the equivalent of Loro Piana’s Proposte, and is only available for six months.
Anteprima Primavera Estate 2018
Among the jackets here there are familiar fibre mixes of wool/silk/linen and 100% wool, but also some silk seersuckers in blue stripes and checks.
Silk makes for a more luxurious feeling fibre for seersucker, although with less texture and body.
So if the maroon of 68036 is a little strong for you, there is also a blue with a maroon windowpane (68035).
Cotton & Linen Summer
This bunch is more static than the two above - intended for summer, but usually updated every two years.
It contains quite a lot of ‘micro-effect’ cottons that add texture to the surface of the cloths. We’d recommend concentrating on the plains at the back of the book, which while very light (7oz) come in some lovely colours - 5 shades of brown in a single quality (90041).
Drapers
Drapers do a handful of seasonal bunches that you will occasionally find at tailors - largely but not exclusively woven by Vitale Barberis Canonico.
Ascot Two Ply is a range of crisp 8oz worsteds, plus some four-ply 12oz worsteds. The latter are our favourite, and make up with a very sharp finish.
Top Kid Mohair is wool/mohair mixes, with either 15% or 25% mohair, while Cotton & Cotton is a very solid, broad range of cottons useful for summer trousers.

More lighter weights (7.5oz or 8oz) here than in pretty much any other bunch out there. Pictured is a mushroomy 4802.
Solbiati
Solbiati have been evolving their cut-length offerings since they were taken over by Loro Piana, and had the same jacketing and trouser bunches for a couple of years.
Last Spring/Summer that started to change, with more books introduced and therefore a wider collection.
This season there are two new ones, Nobel Lino (linen) and Zefiro Cotone (cotton). Both are non-seasonal, so should be around for 2-3 years depending on demand.
Zefiro Cotone
Zefiro has the biggest range of cotton seersucker you’ll find anywhere. The bunch is 90% seersucker, and there are stripes, plains, windowpanes and ginghams in a dozen or so colours each.
Nobel Lino
Nobel is equally distinct, having probably the widest range of patterned linens anywhere.
They’re all relatively lightweight (9.5oz), but there are herringbones, windowpanes, boating stripes, pinstripes and glen checks. Plus a few plains in the back.
We would generally recommend silk/wool/linen mixes for jackets in these patterns, but if you love linen, this is the best selection.
In term of 38033, the brown/grey “fresco”, how versatile is it going to be compared to a grey of a similar tone? Do you think it would be unusual enough for people to remember if you wore it, say, twice in a week or two?
I presume you mean 380339?
Interesting question. I think it probably would be something people would notice in a business environment, yes. It would be different enough to everyone else’s grey and navy to stand out, albeit subtly. More so than having the same colour as everyone else, but in a different texture, eg grey flannel.
Simon
Interesting that you mention the Caccioppoli 380101 fabric. I’ve just visited the cacciioppoli store today and it is indeed a nice fabric. Would you say it could pair well with jeans?
Yes, if made in a soft casual cut, I think it could be good
Hi
I should have mentioned, I intend to have the jacket made with patch pockets and shirt shoulder.
Nice
I’ve commissioned a Neapolitan style jacket with Loro Piana 676038 and am chuffed to see it featured in your blog as it reaffirms my choice a month back. Can’t wait to see how it turns out!
If I may, what colour knitwear / bottoms would you recommend with this jacket?
Cheers.
For bottoms, a mid-grey might be too close in colour, so you’ll want tan, cream or charcoal probably. Maybe olive as well.
Those colours would all work as knitwear as well, if not used for the trousers. Plus navy.
Hi Simon
Whats the durability of a e.g. loro piana wool-silk-linen blend vs 100% wool?
Your advice much appreciated
Wool in general will be hardier, but it also depends on weight, weave etc. Silk adds some durability to the fibre-mix one.
Hi Simon, a very interesting post. A quick couple of questions – I often find that silk adds warmth to garments (scarves in Winter and is an example), does this mean a silk/linen blend will be warmer than my normal choice – 100% linen? Would this preclude it from being worn on the warmest Summer days, whilst possibly extending its use into late Spring and early Autumn?
No, I don’t think you would notice much difference
Silk can be a superb Summer cloth. You feel it add warmth to garment, It may largely because of its weaving method.
Silk scarves are always done in tightly twill weave which make it dress warm in Winter, however, silk/ linen blend in Summer cloth bunch are always done is relatively losing plain weave . It make you feel cool in summer time
I enjoyed this review, but why not include Ariston Imparato as well? Among the Italian fabric merchants, their bunches are always the most lively and contemporary, with a continuous stream of novelties. The level of taste remains high. Plus their bunches are fully viewable online, unlike many houses you discuss.
We couldn’t coordinate with them in time, but will certainly look to include them next time
Great article, Simon, thank you! May I ask you if there’s a way to purchase samples and actual cloth length from Solbiati and Caccioppoli online? Tailors here in Prague don’t carry their books (unlike Zegna, Loro Piana and lots of English merchants) but I’d love get their cloth. Thank you!
Solbiati are now owned by Loro Piana so they should have the same agent – ask your tailor to ask the LP agent.
No on Caccioppoli
The article consistently mentions “we”, which I don’t recall your others from doing so unless it was a collaborative piece. Is this a “royal we” or was this a joint effort and you’ve just not disclosed the other contributors?
Good spot. In this case James Girdwood helped out and did much of the research. Many thanks should go to him
Dear Simon,
What a wonderful idea to review what is coming out by season. In the past I have missed out on some beautiful material
just because I did not have time to be checking to see what is coming out. I do hope you will make this a regular feature, with another later for the winter.
Thanks Fred. And yes, that’s the plan
Really interesting work with a few of my own finds included. What do you think of extending the search into trouserings? Perhaps even to match your jacketing favourites? Might turn out a much shorter, less seasonal list, but no less relevant as some early comments indicated. Thanks much, Simon.
Nice idea. There are obviously some trouserings in these bunches, but we haven’t really focused on them. Could be good as a separate post
I agree with you OSKAR
Great initiative.
Wondering what experience you or readers had with piacenza fabrics, not necessarily their cashmeres. I find their design to be some of the best but sometimes the surface – under certain angles – does not look very neat, wondering whether peeling may occur and durability be short.
Hi Simon,
There are undoubtedly gorgeous fabrics in the Caccioppoli jackets summer bunch but there are also clearly overpriced. A Holland & Sherry wool/silk/linen in the Crystal Spring bunch will cost almost half less than its italian counterpart. I don’t think that the H&S are less qualitative.
Good point. Personally though, I rarely like any of the summer jacketings in the English bunches, and the price difference is not huge
Simon
Do you think a navy linen jacket cut in Neapolitan style could go with jeans? I’d add creamy coloured buttons too.
Thank you for sharing some very beautiful cloths! I have a good idea of what I like when it comes to cool-weather jacketings, but for summer this gives me plenty more ideas than I had before. The English styles that I typically lean towards don’t translate so well for warm weather.
I just picked up a MTM suit in S10026, and it’s fun to see that it’s also one of your favorites.
Mine looks at bit lighter (more blue) in person than in your picture, but I think they also had a slightly darker variant.
Simon,
Are you familiar with the new Bard bunch from Lovat? FT did a piece on it here:
https://howtospendit.ft.com/mens-style/202761-bespoke-paul-smith-suits-in-a-revival-heritage-cloth
In addition the Lovat website describes it as being «available by the metre». It is also strikingly similar to the «Brisa» travel cloth from the London Lounge Cloth Club (also made by Lovat).
S
No – thanks for the heads up
Thanks Simon. Maybe something to add to the overview if you like the book?
S
Lov ly cloths. I especially like the Caccioppoli 380101 and the Zegna 90059.
I can dream about these while I look out my window at that most Canadian of phenomena – the spring snowstorm.