A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches

November 9th 2022

I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi . I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place...

A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches

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It's a little hard to say, Sandeep. I've never looked at what suits other skin types that closely, and of course know my own far better. I'd instinctively think something like a dark olive or dark brown or black perhaps....

ClothNovember 9th 2022

Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...

June 1st 2022

The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...

Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...

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Hey Chris, Yes it's hard, some people will call a natural shoulder one with just a little less padding than their normal structure. The sloped aesthetic is about the padding, and a little how high it sits on the neck, as...

Cloth - JacketsJune 1st 2022

Linen, paisley and velvet interiors: de Le Cuona

January 7th 2022

I recently followed a thread of interest from shirtmaker Emma Willis, to the slow-woven fabric of her dressing gowns, to the company that produces them, de Le Cuona. It was a fairly speculative journey. I had no idea whether anything I discovered at...

Linen, paisley and velvet interiors: de Le Cuona

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There will be a post on mine next week JH, so you don't have to wait long. But it was a plain cashmere from Budd...

ClothJanuary 7th 2022

A visit to Molloy & Sons

December 17th 2021

Living in a city, it’s easy to become reliant on Google Maps. After all, it will tell you not only where things are, but how to get there, which train is fastest, and the branches of Pret a Manger along on the way. Driving from Belfast to Don...

A visit to Molloy & Sons

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Please do...

ClothDecember 17th 2021

The Willy Wonka wool room

November 15th 2021

OK, so when I wrote last week about how Donegal yarn is spun, I left out the best bit. It was deliberate, as I thought this process deserved a post on its own. When Maureen at Donegal Yarns started our tour of the factory, she said she had taken a ...

The Willy Wonka wool room

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Thank you. I'll fix that now...

ClothNovember 15th 2021

How Donegal yarn is made

November 1st 2021

*Donegal Coat update: The first batch is ready and will be shipping out this week. A smaller second batch will go on sale next week. Use the form on the shop page to be added to the waiting list for that if you're interested* Jamie and I travelled t...

How Donegal yarn is made

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That's lovely to hear Gail, thanks...

ClothNovember 1st 2021

Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid

August 25th 2021

Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive. As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, houndstooths and herringbones. T...

Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid

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Hey Chris, Did you see this article? I think most of the points are addressed there. If not please do ask in the comments...

ClothAugust 25th 2021

Introducing: PS Harris Tweed

April 23rd 2021

My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now. Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below ), a fantastic ulster coat from L...

Introducing: PS Harris Tweed

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No current plans, no Robert. We tend to do these only when there isn't something we like in that area - we think it's unique. Is there anything you feel is lacking in either of those colours of coating?...

ClothApril 23rd 2021

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...

April 9th 2021

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...

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I haven't, no. Do try and try one on before ordering one if you can - DBs can vary so much...

Cloth - SuitsApril 9th 2021

The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo)

September 4th 2020

My Cifonelli velvet jacket The cloth that you select for a tuxedo (or black tie) probably won’t get as much thought as the design, the shirt or indeed your bow tie. The options are fairly limited, and all those other things will have a greater ...

The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo)

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Hi Sigmund - suggest considering Ede & Ravenscroft at that price point; here's an example that might work: https://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/formal-dress/products/shawl-collar-dinner-jacket-85896...

Black tie - ClothSeptember 4th 2020

Introducing: PS Selvedge Chambray

August 24th 2020

Back in 2017, Jamie Ferguson and I visited fabric mills in Japan - like Hosoo, in Kyoto (pictured below) , which produces the most extraordinary silks. It was really interesting to see the weaving side of Japanese heritage, and the typically innovat...

Introducing: PS Selvedge Chambray

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No sorry Noel, no plans for other colours...

ClothAugust 24th 2020

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

July 24th 2020

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

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Well, if someone were looking straight at you from behind, they should just see your legs disappear under the skirt of the jacket, without anything connecting those legs together. It's that angle that's most important re...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 24th 2020

Escorial Tweed is available again

July 20th 2020

UPDATE: Please note that the tech sheet for tailors, mentioned below, also includes information on the small shrinkage that sometimes occurs with Escorial. If your tailor is unsure on how this will affect the amount you need, please request this she...

Escorial Tweed is available again

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No, sorry Phong, I haven't tried a worsted. I would imagine it would be good, but I can't speak from experience...

ClothJuly 20th 2020

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

July 6th 2020

  One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that you can throw on for...

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

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Hi Biswajit, I think you may find that a suit in a light construction, such as from a Neapolitan tailor, in a lightweight material, may make as much difference as regards the weather. The biggest difference an unstructur...

ClothJuly 6th 2020

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...

March 16th 2020

The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to ...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...

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No I don't, sorry, unless you count someone like Loro Piana or Zegna. The Anglo project is pretty unique - and getting bigger I hear, there are some new bunches coming...

ClothMarch 16th 2020

Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre

February 28th 2020

Anyone that has been on or around Savile Row in the past year would have likely come across the force of nature that is Nancy Johnston (above), founder of Tengri, and her yak fibre. Nancy is a social worker, traveller and campaigner, who founded Te...

Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre

Match in comments:
Hi Simon, hope your coat is holding up and keeping you warm this winter. Phong, Khangai yak fabrics is relatively new to the world, so it hasn't been wear-tested for years but I can say all our fabrics are heavily tested...

ClothFebruary 28th 2020

The guide to winter shirt fabrics

January 3rd 2020

  I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts. Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels and cor...

The guide to winter shirt fabrics

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In that respect yes, though the colour would make a big difference as well obviously...

Cloth - ShirtsJanuary 3rd 2020

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

October 21st 2019

This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

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The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...

ClothOctober 21st 2019

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

September 11th 2019

Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

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They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...

Bags - ClothSeptember 11th 2019

Introducing: Escorial Tweed

August 28th 2019

Today, the question I get more than any other is: what cloth should I use for a sports jacket? Selecting cloth for a jacket is not easy, at least once you’ve gone beyond the navy blazer. Compared to a navy or grey suit, there's a dizzying ran...

Introducing: Escorial Tweed

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Sorry—it and the oatmeal are already active parts of my wardrobe. Both great cloths!...

ClothAugust 28th 2019

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

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I don't know that bunch Michael, but it sounds rather more sleek than the Ascot. I think it would look rather different - sharper, but perhaps flashier too. I think it's up to you whether you think that would fit well wi...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...

June 12th 2019

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...

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I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...

Cloth - TrousersJune 12th 2019

Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...

June 10th 2019

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on...

Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...

Match in comments:
Hi Simon, I wanted to ask if we could discuss the details of this jacket? I'm in training to become a tailor and plan to recreate this jacket as my exam piece. The school I attend is called Master Tailor Institute, liter...

Cloth - JacketsJune 10th 2019

The guide to synthetic and performance cloth

May 20th 2019

[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here]   The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowned upon by consumers, ...

The guide to synthetic and performance cloth

Match in comments:
With that coat, I would think it was there for water resistance - it's a rain coat more than an overcoat. So no, there I wouldn't be concerned....

ClothMay 20th 2019

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

March 22nd 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

Match in comments:
Yes, Zegna isn't as popular as Loro Piana generally, and in my view with good reason - the Zegna ranges have never appealed to me as much. I can't think of one that does have them off the top of my head, but I'm sure som...

ClothMarch 22nd 2019