My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now.
Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below), a fantastic ulster coat from Liverano (above) and even a self-backed waistcoat from Richard James (here).
The waistcoat hasn’t had much use, but the other two are among the best pieces of tailoring I’ve ever commissioned. I know they’ve also been real favourites among readers.
So last year, I began talking to Holland & Sherry about reweaving the tweed, as an exclusive Permanent Style cloth. It is now finally (after a few Covid hiccups) available from the PS shop.
It is being cut to order by H&S, in increments of 10cm, so check with your tailor how much you need. (Although handwoven tweed, it is a standard width of 150cm.)
The prime reason I loved that tweed was the amazing colours woven into it: vibrant shades of orange, yellow and blue alongside the more standard brown and black.
And yet, at a distance, it’s just a nice warm brown. Something with character, sure, but not the kind of cloth you’d believe would have these crayon-like colours in it.
This comes across particularly in the shots below, of the yarn being spun up in the Outer Hebrides in Scotland. You can see all the dyed fleeces being assembled, and then mixed together before being made into yarn.
I’d never seen the cloth like this, but it really gives you a sense of the vibrancy of the wool. The mixture looks like something I’d find in my kids’ Playdough box - yet the end result is such a subtle, sophisticated cloth. It’s only when you get close that you see those little coloured fibres curling together.
Being a Harris Tweed, the cloth is handwoven on manual looms - the same type of machine that been used for centuries.
Actually, manual is a little misleading, because most of the work is done with the feet rather than the hands. The weaver (shown below) uses her feet to keep the loom going at a steady rhythm using the pedals below the seat.
Her hands, meanwhile, are free to smooth the material as it goes, and sort out any knots that pop up. I saw this process for the first time years ago, at Breanish, and it is a very endearing craft.
The advantage of weaving at this slower speed is that the tweed can be a little more open, a little spongier. And you do notice the malleable, springy feel of handwoven tweed if you compare it to something mass-manufactured.
In fact, for me, it’s more akin to the way the original wool feels on the sheep - less of that seems to be lost in the weaving process. I remember being in Scotland and feeling the fleece on local sheep that were used in tweed, and it is special somehow to feel that similar wool clothing you.
The sheep used in the PS Harris Tweed are all Scottish, and the yarn has to be spun and the cloth finished in the Outer Hebrides to officially be called Harris Tweed. (All such cloth has a little Harris orb printed on it, as shown below, to certify its origin.)
The tweed weighs 15/16oz (per linear metre), which is a mid- to heavy-weight for tweed, and is something I wear at least half of the year.
I happily wear my Caliendo jacket (below) into the Spring, although that is in the UK of course. And it can be worn well into Winter, particularly with knitwear underneath or a coat on top. This weight and weave is also noticeably soft - I wouldn’t describe it as scratchy at all.
The warm-brown colour means it’s not quite as urban as darker browns I’ve featured before (eg here from WW Chan) but it is more versatile probably, going with everything from jeans to flannels.
In fact, I’ve shown it with all these combinations over the years on Permanent Style, from sharp cream cavalry twills to rugged denim and boots.
In this article I even showed my Caliendo jacket deliberately in three outfits, descending in levels of formality. I’ve reproduced those three images below.
April is, of course, not a usual time to launch a tweed. Most new fabrics come out in August or September.
But this is the ideal time to be commissioning a jacket for the Autumn and Winter, presuming any tailor you use is going to take at least 3-4 months to have the jacket ready.
It might even be longer, given the current restrictions on travel. Starting now makes it likely the jacket (or indeed coat, if you prefer) will be ready sometime in the colder months.
Swatches of the PS Harris Tweed are being made available, if anyone wants to see the cloth in person before ordering. These can be bought through the shop (just order 10cm) and the cost will be refunded if you then subsequently order a length of the tweed.
A summary of the details on ordering:
- PS Harris Tweed can only be ordered from the PS shop, here. It is not available separately to tailors, or from any other mill.
- Order the length you require in units of 1m and 10cm. So for 2.2m, you need to order 2 metres and 2 lots of 10cm.
- Ask your tailor how much you require. I would normally need 2.2m for a jacket with patch pockets. The cloth has a usable width of 150cm.
- The cloth is being cut to order, and then sent from Scotland, by Holland & Sherry. So please allow 3-4 working days for lengths to be sent.
- The tweed costs £95 a metre, plus those local VAT or duties.
- If you would like a swatch, please place an order for 10cm. The cost is refundable if you subsequently order cloth. Please request this when you make your subsequent order.
- As the cloth is cut to order, it cannot be returned or exchanged unless faulty. If you are uncertain, please do order a swatch first.
- If you would like the cloth sent directly to a tailor, please put them down as the shipping address, but include your name in the address also, so the tailor knows who it’s for.
Details on the cloth:
- Authentic Harris Tweed, which means handwoven by islanders in their homes in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland, as well as being finished there, using virgin wool dyed and spun there.
- The yarn used is from Scottish sheep, and weighs 15/16oz or 470/500g per linear metre. It has a usable width of 150cm.
- The weave is a twill, but this is barely noticeable amid the colours and curls of yarn.
Further articles where you can see the tweed being used and worn are:
- Which sports-jacket office are you?
- Harris tweed jacket and jeans
- Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review
- Wellema hat review
- White PS Oxford shirt
- Harris tweed waistcoat, Richard James
- Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential of 2016
- Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014
- Friday Polos back in stock - with new Olive
This is definitely a case of giving the readers what they want! Thank you, Simon and H&S, for putting the time/effort in to bring this back. And very competitive pricing for an H&S cloth.
Just one question: how do you feel this compares to the brown escorial tweed, and could a wardrobe justify both? This is a little darker and coarser than the escorial i assume, and perhaps more informal? I have a length of escorial sitting in my wardrobe, waiting for travel restrictions to enable me to visit a tailor.
It is more casual, yes, and a little darker. It’s certainly different, but the aesthetic isn’t that far off. I guess whether the wardrobe could justify it depends on how many other jackets there are in there.
I suspect that John is not the only person with Escorial cloth sitting in his closet unused on account of the lockdown.
Looks like this tweed is probably better suited for wearing over jeans than the escorial is, making it perhaps a touch more versatiles in the post-COVID world.
In fact, I noticed you’re not wearing a tie in an of the pictures with the tweed but you are with the escorial. Can the tweed work well with a tie? What color do you think would look best?
Yes, you might be right there on the tweed. It’s certainly more casual.
Yes, the tweed can certainly work well with a tie. You might want something more casual, like a knitted or woollen one, but loads of colours could work, from navy and grey through to yellow and green
How does this compare to the Escorial in terms of the flocking? Similar colors?
I assume the fabric is much coarser than the Escorial.
Yes, it’s coarser – it’s a tweed rather than close to a cashmere. But not the coarsest of tweeds.
By flocking, I assume you mean the colours mixed in? If so, then there is a similar amount, but the tweed ones are rather brighter, as shown.
Simon, Have you seen a dark green/olive equivalent to this particular Harris Tweed for a jacket? Looking at H&S Forest Green Mix Herringbone (8919001) or perhaps Forest Green Solid (8919019) but not sure if either has the interesting texture and embedded colors of the PS Harris Tweed.
Nothing that’s really the same in terms of the colour variation and a similar weight, no
Very nice. Similar to one I had in Hardy Minnis 520141 Harris Tweed. https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/24 made by Pooles.
I’m glad to see there’ll be more of this tweed around!
I’ve got two questions, if that’s ok.
The first is I think I remember you saying once upon a time that you thought tweeds were often too spongy to make good trousers, and I was hoping you could expand on what you meant, especially given that tweeds are often made as suits or as shooting trousers. A tweed like this looks like it would go particularly well as a casual three piece because all the pieces would wear well as separates.
Also, I was wondering why the waistcoat doesn’t get much of a go, given it feels like it should be just thing for a little more warmth in a fairly casual outfit?
So the thing with trousers is, there are lots of types of tweed. Something like Thornproof from Porter & Harding might also be called a tweed, but it is very different from this tweed in many respects. The yarn is finer, the weave is a lot denser, and the finishing is different. All of which make it a much sharper material than will drape well as trousers, and hold its shape. Indeed, it is woven specifically in that way for that reason.
You get the same difference in high-twist cloths. The well-known high-twists like Fresco or Crispaire are woven to be good for suits or trousers. They often look a little too sharp or formal as a jacket. Which is why the same mills offer things like hopsack or mock leno in weaves which are usually a little softer and more open, making them more suitable to jackets.
This tweed is too open and soft to work well as trousers, as most Harris Tweeds are.
With the waistcoat, yes it is practical and I do love both the make up and the material like that. It’s just a style I don’t like that much at the moment. It feels a little too forced – like trying to make a piece of tailoring work with a casual outfit when it doesn’t quite. That would apply to any waistcoat worn separately with any trousers.
Thanks Simon. Just so I know – what tweeds tend to work as trousers / suitings then?
To be honest I don’t have a full picture as it’s not a style I wear, and therefore haven’t looked at much. But if you look and feel the likes of Thornproof in person, it will be very clear what the differences are – and then easy to tell the difference when looking at other tweeds.
Not so simple online though. Another PS reader that wears that type of cloth might be more able to help perhaps.
I own several tweed jackets and I use them with Donegal wool trousers. I think, as you mention, the heavier weight the better for trousers.
Yes Peter, weight makes some difference, but more important is the density of the weave – then things like the yarn and the finishing.
I have more or less the same problem with waistcoats – in hardier wools they should in theory go well with any outdoors or workwear based outfit, but they just look forced all the time.
On an unrelated note, a feature I’d find useful for the site next time you’re thinking of a re-fresh would be some sort of ‘thumbs up’ or ‘ah ha’ or ‘I see’ or ‘kudos’ button for comments. There’s lots of times I find a comment or response useful or insightful (like your one above) and it would be a way to acknowledge that without cluttering up the feed for everyone.
A ‘+1’ or ‘agree’ button might be similarly useful.
Thanks Tony, good to know. I guess the downside it would be open to abuse – and there are a good number of trolls around. Do you think the votes of real readers would outweigh that?
I think this is something worth considering. An ‘agree’ button might be the only one you need though. If you don’t agree with someone you can provide input in another comment and further the discussion and if a counter argument has already been provided you can simply ‘like’ that.
Good point, thanks Nick.
I agree with Nick – one button is probably enough, and it would be a supportive sentiment so not really a troll risk.
Out of all the clothes you have showcased on PS down the years, the one that stuck with me most was this original Harris Jacket that Elia made for you. I was very taken with it. So much so in fact, that I researched a list of all the registered Harris weavers and, going down through them one by one, I eventually found the most charming lady on the Isle of Harris who very kindly agreed to source the wool and weave a length for me. I then subsequently had a Jacket and a single breasted Coat made for me by Elia. They are both foundational staples in my wardrobe. Furthermore, apart from the wonderful fit, texture and colour(s) this tweed comes in, it is a tweed that is very original and unique. I know that I will wear these pieces for the rest of my days. And I’ve lost count of the amount of compliments I get about them. So “well wear” to those who take you up on this wonderful offer which you so kindly made available. If they knew how difficult it was to get this tweed, they will surely take advantage of its availability. And they’ll be glad they did..!!
Amazing, thanks Joe. I’m so pleased those clothes have been so good for you, and I’m very pleased to be able to offer it to everyone as well
Had circumstances been a little bit different I’d have already ordered a length by now. It’s a wonderful cloth, Simon, and for your sake I hope that it’s all sold out by the time I’d be able to make use of it.
Beautiful cloth. The colour combination is very interesting.
One question, do you think that this cloth would be equally versatile for a Teba jacket?
Interested in your reply as I have never seen a Teba jacket in PS but is a very common (semi)casual jacket in Spain.
Yes, I think it would make a nice Teba jacket.
I did actually have a Teba made years ago at Burgos – article here. But while I like the unstructured nature, the lack of shape and lapel style wasn’t something I liked that much.
Thats a beautiful cloth .
I’ve never forgotten it since seeing it in the article many years ago.
What I would ask is if you could give very approximate prices for having its made as a exact style of jacket to that shown.
I accept this is very, very approximate figures but for example what would be the
London bespoke ?
Saville Row bespoke ?
London MTM ?
If you want that style, then you need Neapolitan, not Savile Row.
In that case you are looking for bespoke tailors ranging from Solito to Ciardi, around €2500 to €3000.
And made-to-measure using Neapolitan workshops, such as Jean-Manuel Moreau or Saman Amel,€1100 to €1600.
All of those require them to travel to London, though, which they aren’t currently doing. The only Neapolitan house based in London is Rubinacci.
I’m wondering if there’s only a very limited amount available to order? I ask because I want to give some thought into what I’d like made-up and so how much to order. But I’m worried of it all running out if I dither.
Agree with other readers that I’ve been enamoured by this tweed, and very excited you’ve brought it back for us to order!
We’ve sold about a quarter of the cloth since this morning, so it’s going fairly quickly. I’m sure demand will tail off, but I’d suggest you should order within the next 2 or 3 days if you do want it.
I have an overcoat in cloth that is very close, from the same tweed book. I believe it is one tick off yours; mine is No. 892021, yours I think was No. 892020. Mine differs in that it has an overcheck. The Harris Tweed made up into an incredibly rich, robust, beautiful coat. While my cloth is not exactly the same, it is extremely close in color and texture. This is a cloth with character. It is also spectacularly warm and I have yet to be cold when wearing my coat, even in the most bracing weather.
There have been some comments about tweed trousers. I have six pairs and absolutely love them. I wear them as odd trousers when the weather is freezing, or when I travel to Scotland. They are in various weights, from Donegal tweed, to heavy Shetland tweed and Harris Tweed. They are lined to the knee. They do not drape as crisply as a wool dress trouser, but I am not troubled by that. They have their own style–you have to be comfortable with it–but for me their wonderful warmth makes them extremely practical. They are handsome and draw comment. I have one pair in grey Shetland wool that can be worn with odd jackets, but the more patterned ones generally do not go with jackets, so I wear them with heavy sweaters and overcoats.
It‘s funny. When I saw this Tweed on your Jacket years ago I actually purchased it (still in the H&S range back then) and made my first self-made Jacket out of it (teaching myself some tailoring). The fabric is really great and I can confirm its versatility. You can dress it up and down and it will allways feels natural. Will you keep on launching your Escorial cloths?
No the Escorial cloth is not coming back.
Ah darn… I had the oatmeal colored Escorial made into a Vestrucci jacket on the first release and the green into a Rubinacci safari jacket/over-shirt in the second launch. I was looking forward to the brown in the third go around. Oh well, I’ve purchased this Harris tweed. Now, I just need to decide how I want it made.
I’d forgotten just how gorgeous this cloth is. Both the Ulster coat and jacket are in the top five, maybe top three, in their respective categories that you’ve ever commissioned. Thanks for bringing this beautiful Harris tweed back.
for the gentleman who is inquiring about tweed cloth suitable for trousering: there are several, but Harris tweed is not among them. Plus fours, also known as knickerbockers would likely be the only exception. The confusion might come from Harris tweed being the best known of all tweed fabrics.
Tweed cloth for suiting would be
1. Cheviot tweeds, named after a breed of sheep whose wool is used. The yarns are thicker, rougher and heavier, cheviot cloth is usually more tightly woven and stiffer than other tweeds.
2. A so-called Saxony Tweed is also suitable for suits – the cloth is somewhat softer than other tweeds and made of merino wool.
3. Thornproof is especially appreciated by hunters because the cloth is very resistant – thorn punctures can be massaged out manually.
4. Finallly, most Irish Donegal tweeds are suitable as well.
Finally, there are Shetland tweeds made from a very soft wool – this one is suitable for jackets, overcoats and scarves, and the particularly heavy Gamekeeper Tweeds.
One more word on tweed trousers: there is hardly anything more elegant and relaxed to wear on weekends than tweed trousers and a turtleneck pullover. Well, with the exception of flannel trousers perhaps.
Thank you David, that’s very helpful.
I’m not sure I’d say most Donegals are – the ones I’ve had made into coats and jackets are softer and looser, almost as much as Harris. But some can certaily make good trousers and suits. I guess there’s more variation there.
Simon, what about your tweed herringbone suit by The Anthology? Isn´t that Harris Tweed?
Yes, but as commented at the time in the article, the trousers aren’t great in the material. They bag out like a bugger!
Just to clarify, if I want 2.5 meters then I need to add two lots of 1 meter and then 5 of 10 cm, all of them separate additions to the basket (there doesn’t seem to be ‘quantity’ function). Just wanted to double check, as I don’t want seven separate pieces of this lovely tweed!
That’s correct, yes Nikolai.
You can adjust the volumes on the shopping cart page, but there should be an earlier one really. Thanks for pointing that out.
Do you think a gilet could work with this fabric? Thanks
Yes, that could be very nice
I note that you needed 2.2 metres for the jacket that you have with patch pockets.
Can I ask how much you needed for the overcoat please?
And does say the neopolitan style vs A&S make a difference to how much material is needed?
I don’t know on the overcoat Yash, I’d have to check. But please please don’t order unless you know exactly how much you need. Or if you must, err very much on the safe side. Ask the tailor
I did try and get hold of them but they won’t be available until Tuesday so hopefully there will still be material left otherwise may have to err on the safe side and work it out that way.
Thanks for reverting.
Never having ordered fabric lengths before, should I order separate lengths for jacket and overcoat or one larger length to accommodate both?
Either is fine, but it would probably be more efficient to order one length, presuming they’re both going to be made by the same tailor
May I offer my apologies in advance for asking the following question under this unrelated post?
If there is a better way for future reference please let me know.
Where can I purchase proper madder silk cravats? Like the Budd ties. I called Budd and they rarely have them in and cannot remember the last time they did.
I normally wear neckerchiefs but want a few cravats in madder paisley and other patterns. Happy to have them made specifically as well so if you have any ideas or suggestions, that would be great.
I’d afraid I don’t know Yash, it’s not something I wear. Sorry. But other readers might be able to help
Gentlemen Gazette has some cravats, but not many models, in madder silk. I have one in blue and red which is really nice. The handle is really soft and subtle.
I believe Serafine Fine silk also have some models, but I have never purchased from them, so I can’t testify on their products
Just on Gentlemen Gazette, the colors on the fotos usually show a slightly different color than what you get (likely because of the lighting) and they actually are slightly brighter then in reality
This is very helpful, thank you.
Both sites have some interesting patterns but the Gentlemans Gazette ones look quite beautiful.
I note your comments on the slightly “brighter” than the photos colour.
Thank you again. 🙏🏼
Ok, no problem.
Any thoughts from other readers would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
Beautiful color. Well done!!! Nothing like Harris Tweed. Now to find a tailor given Whitcomb is not traveling
I have admired this fabric for on the above mentioned commissions. Thanks for the exclusive offering for the PS groupies. Just placed order for fabric for jacket and full fabric back waistcoat. Pretty excited especially after reading above reviews. Love the Ulster coat but tough to justify cost especially with warmer climate in the southeast of US. Regarding your Richard James waistcoat, sorry you don’t find more use for it. Here in the states all offices are over air conditioned and I love my WBill shetland waistcoat. Good stuff. Thanks again.
What a lovely tweed. Really reminds me of a tweed cap I have from Lock – very similar base but with an over check. Lots of wonderful subtle detail to it.
Congrats on this fabric launch! I think many readers would also be interested in a rerun of the breanish tweed silver PS Tweed, especially with the current shift to more business-casual. The PS tweed is very similar to the navy options you mentioned in your recent “Navy with Jeans” article. Please let me know if this would be possible, thanks!
I’m afraid not Bernie, no. As mentioned previously, we did try to do this with Breanish but they weren’t able to
Lovely cloth, and obviously something that will gladden many of your readers. Your ability of making (or find) styles, textures etc. that are not easily found elsewhere are certainly very good (the chambray shirt my own most recent example).
But (yes, there is a but…), I just wish the colors of the cloth you make up would be colder. I have a jacket made right now in your escorial oatmeal. A stunning fabric (and the tailoress agrees). I would happily bought the green and brown as well, but alas, they are significantly warmer than the oatmeal, and because of it, much less versatile.
Anyhow, sorry about the lamentation, I guess it’s was just a cumbersome way of asking if you have something more urban colored in the pipeline?
Thanks, useful feedback. If you want something colder, I’d recommend the tweed I used here for my WW Chan jacket. Remember, the aim with the PS products is not to create a complete collection, like a brand would do – it’s to fill gaps of things I really want but can’t find anywhere. I wouldn’t have rewoven this tweed if there were basically the same thing available somewhere else. Does that make sense?
Sure, it definitely makes sense. And I hadn’t noticed that W Bill tweed, it looks very good, thanks for the pointer!
I read that one of the other commentators asked, if there were any risk to look like one where of to a fox hunt, and I guess that’s pretty spot on why I preference colder fabrics. That question wouldn’t been asked about, for instance, that W bill fabric. And, perhaps you don’t agree, but I don’t find that coldness necessarily enhances the smartness (which for me would be a negative).
Yes, I think you’re right Claes. The difference in smartness is pretty small.
I think the country/fox hunt risk is much bigger with large checks, for instance, and can easily be minimised with what else the jacket is worn with, but I see the concern.
Will there be a restock? I have ordered the sample but if you are going to be sold out within the next few days I don’t see a reason to have, unless there is another run planned.
We will have a restock, yes, so don’t worry
Thanks for adding this cloth which I love to your shop. Almost four years ago, inspired by your Elia Caliendo jacket, I ordered the cloth to H&S when it was still available and had a similar sports jacket commissioned here in Seoul. It’s still one of my favorite items in my wardrobe. Love to wear it with grey flannel trousers and navy roll neck, or jeans and light denim shirt, with our without knitwear.
Amazing, that’s so nice to hear Gilles, thank you
Beautiful cloth. I think it’s great that you’ve put the effort to get it reweaved.
I actually did manage to order a length back when it was available (inspired by your Caliendo jacket) and I got a jacket made by Solito that I use a lot during early spring, autumn and winter.
I wonder if the material could work in an overshirt / shacket ? I think that as an overcoat it would be too light for Stockholm.
Perhaps, yes. You often want more body than that for an overshirt, so it would be a little softer than most, but it would look great
Beautiful cloth! Please could I ask a technical question on the key differences between Harris and Donegal tweeds? Asit appears they have suitability for different applications? Eg the PS Donegal overcoat. You may have covered previously?
Well, Harris Tweed is more specific than Donegal. It refers to particular processes and locations, which tend to then mean a certain type of cloth: a little rougher, more casual, springy.
Donegal just refers to woollen yarn that has its characteristic flecks. Often spun in the Donegal like the original (as ours was) but not necessarily. It can vary quite a lot in how rough or fine it is, and how it is then woven.
I’d think of Donegal tweed as just an aesthetic thing – a certain look to a material with the flecks in it. Whereas Harris Tweed is a more specific type of cloth.
Thank you Simon
Yes, Harris Tweed is a highly regulated type of fabric, I also think it’s one of the few products made in the UK that have a similar regulatory body as AOC in France. More details here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harris_Tweed_Authority
Seems unusual to have a sports coat and overcoat made of the same material. Is the coat heavily lined or is it just a lightweight coat? Presumably, the fit of the overcoat allows you to layer underneath.
It’s just a lightweight coat. Although, it’s really about the same weight as most mainstream coats sold today. And the jacket is heavier than most mainstream ones.
Simon, I have lusted after this cloth since your Caliendo jacket first appeared on PS in 2014. Of course, at that time, you dishearteningly noted that the cloth was vintage and not available. Then I missed the 2018 production by H&S.
Never again. I have ordered 5 meters for a topcoat, despite having never purchased bespoke or frankly being able to afford to anytime soon. This cloth will sit in my closet until the appointed time. I have no doubt that this length of unfinished cloth will be among the most intrinsically luxurious objects I own.
Beautiful! I work in a very casual office, such that even a very unstructured jacket would be too formal most days. I’m thinking a shirt jacket might be versatile enough for me, but there are so many different styles. Do you have an recommendations or examples of shirt jacket styles that would be good with this fabric?
Also, would you need about the same amount of fabric for a shirt jacket as a regular jacket?
It depends on the shirt jacket, but you might need a little less.
Would a jacket definitely not work? You could wear it with jeans and just knitwear underneath even.
Thank you for the pointer on fabric quantity.
I probably could wear a jacket to work. I work in a very casual office (California tech company). You are as likely to see someone in a graphic tee and cargo shorts as you are to see someone in a shirt and chinos. But, as you point out, a jacket like yours can be worn very casually.
However, even if I can wear it casually, I think I would find it hard to wear a jacket regularly. A jacket, even if unstructured, is a style that just isn’t that common in my environment, and so might be too memorable to have in regular rotation.
My hope is that a nice shirt jacket could be worn just as high up on the formality scale as an unstructured jacket, but wouldn’t necessarily seem as out of place. Do you agree? What do you see as the trade-offs between a shirt jacket and an unstructured jacket?
I do Ross, and I think it could be worn well in that way. Just not sure whether the tweed is quite the right material for it. The only trade-offs really vs the unstructured jacket are that the latter can be dressed up a tiny bit and look rather smarter.
Definitely some good points to consider. Thank you Simon!
Great cloth and addition to the shop. I know here at Permanent Style, we will be a bit bias but how do you think this will look in an American city? Does this avoid the pitfalls of looking like we are about to go fox hunting?
I’m planning out my wardrobe at the moment and thinking this may be my one brown jacket but the orange really is a double edge sword in this cloth. Lovely color but does give it the rustic look.
As long as you’re aware of that risk Jacob, I think you’ll be fine. It just depends what else you wear it with. If you wear it with green flannels and walking boots, it could look like that. But if you wear it with a denim shirt and suede loafers, you won’t.
Damn too late! Have put myself on the waiting list for the next run.
How many metres did you sell Simon?
Just over 100
I dithered and now that it’s gone I’m kicking myself , the cat and being short with everyone.
Well at least I know what I should have done !
Please let us know when the next run will be ?
P.S. given that so much of your cloth runs sell out why produce so little ?
Sorry Robin. We actually produced a decent amount – the same as the Escorial, but it sold many times faster. We’re a very small company so can’t afford to buy lots and lots of stock that might not sell. Having smaller stock runs and less waste also allows us to keep prices lower.
However, we are immediately reordering this, and I suggest emailing to support team to be on the waiting list. You’ll then be told what the wait time will be once we’ve heard from H&S.
Ahah, I’m happy that readers are now able to get this wonderful tweed, but also frustrated you offer it only now, as I have very recently (in February) ordered a jacket in brown Harris Tweed, wanting something similar to yours, and as I couldn’t find the exact same reference I went for this one :
It’s similar in terms of texture and richness of colour, but I believe it has a much more red-ish tone to it, making it a little more showy and less versatile. Still, I love my jacket, but would have loved it even more had you been able to release the PS Harris Tweed just a few months earlier. ^^
Glad got 2.2m booked this time! Got shocked the first time seeing your lovely Elia Caliendo jacket
It’s interesting that several people mention that they are concerned that they will look like they are about to go fox hunting if they wear this tweed. I think it should be pointed out that such a tweed would never be worn fox hunting (the traditional colours are red, black, navy, cream and definitely not in Harris tweed). I would even say that harris tweed isn’t really worn shooting in the UK (here ‘shooting’ is what the rest of the world calls ‘hunting’). My associations with harris tweed would definitely be more in the realm of academia than country pursuits. I suppose what I am trying to say, is that sometimes our associations are wrong and it is impossible (and unnecessary) to guess what other people will read into the dress we are wearing.
Good point Nick, and nice detail.
I think we do really have to consider what we or other people associate with our clothes, because that is a large part (some would say the entirety) of why things are consider to look good or bad.
But in this case, yes I think people really just mean that they associate tweed with rural life and pursuits as a whole.
I completely agree with your point, I suppose it can be a fine line between what we like and what fits with our surroundings. I think that this is something that has come up previously on this website, particularly in relation to white socks. So perhaps it would be interesting to hear you thoughts on this. How can we be individualistic without making some sort of statement with our clothes? Should we adjust what we are wearing if we go abroad where cultural norms are different?
I think it probably deserves a full article Nick, you’re right. It’s something I often mention in passing but having considered in depth.
Briefly, though, I’d say it’s never as simple as ‘dress for yourself’ or ‘be appropriate/relevant’ – it’s always somewhere in between, and I get annoyed when people present it as just one or the other.
The point to pick on that spectrum is personal, but for me I think it’s perfectly possible to dress in a way that is both relevant and has plenty of character.
Eg: When I go to the bus stop later, no one will be wearing a jacket. But if I wear an open-necked shirt, with a jacket and trousers, I will still feel relevant. If I was wearing a double-breasted suit, with a silk handkerchief, I don’t feel I would be.
Equally, if I wear white socks with my Alden slip-ons, chinos and oxford shirt, I think that’s perfectly relevant. But if I go all the way with Ivy, and wear a Madras jacket with a pin-collar and tie, and white bucks, I won’t be.
I think the great advantage is that we can add colour . My smart casual with Harris is jacket and wool trousers. If out of the classroom and visiting a client, at home perhaps, a splash of pocket square or scarf can both promote conversation and move you away from perceptions.
Certainly worth an article,Simon. Your article about your family life certainly stimulated thoughts and this seems a similar path.
Thanks Peter, and yes good point
Does the cloth come with a little tag to have sewn near the in-breast pocket? Sorry, I am not sure if there is an official name for such tags.
I’m not sure it does to be honest. I didn’t ask because frankly I don’t like labels like that – I don’t like tailors’ ones that much either.
No worries… I was just curious. I saw the point about the “stamp” of orb on the cloth itself and didn’t know if the label was a requirement for the provenance.
Ah, I see. No it’s not, though they may send those out as well. I have asked
Very nice! What would you recommend for use in Singapore? The weather is not ideal, but the cloth is hard to resist. No lining, half lining? Or perhaps just keep to wear in an air-conditioned room. Thanks
I think you’ll struggle out there to be honest. Certainly a half lining, but it will make only a small difference compared to the cloth iself.
Hello Simon, could you possibly provide details on the trousers in the third photo of you seated? I don’t usually care for khaki trousers but this fawn type colour seems to avoid those associations.
PS, I too was taken with this fabric when your original post came out and promptly had it made into a similar style jacket when H&S wove it in 2018.
They are my made to measure from Stoffa. There is a separate article on them if you have a search
Hi Simon, are there by any chance plans to bring back your gun club check tweed?
If you’re referring to this one, it was never something we offered. It was just a vintage piece I used for a jacket.
Unless you’re referring to something else?
Yes that’s the one. I should have phrased it more clearly, any chance you are thinking of recreating it?
Ah, I see. No probably not, sorry. Certainly not in the near future anyway
Tried to order the 2nd batch but apparently the stock remaining is so low that it is no enough for a jacket length.
Any chance for a 3rd batch? Thanks.
The second batch hasn’t become available yet – it should be in August.
What’s on the shop at the moment is just the swatches.
Does that make sense?
Understood, will come back in August and place the order. Thanks.
Is there a date for when this will be available? I’ve ordered a swatch and definitely want to order more for a jacket. I have one being made in 8912020 (bitter chocolate) that should be nice, but I’d like the lighter brown as well.
I think it’s meant to be August, but check with the support team, they always have the latest information – [email protected]
Month passed and now is August.
Should be anytime now…
Indeed it should. We’re just waiting to hear from Holland & Sherry on the availability. Hopefully will be this week.
Already sold out?
Yes I’m afraid so. There was even stronger demand than last time. We will make more though …
Hello Simon. Can you indicate when this fabric might be available again?
It’s available now on the shop site. Can you not see it?
It is available in units of 10 cm but not 1 m. Does that mean one could order 2.2 m solely in 10 cm units?
No, there aren’t enough for that. It just means you can order swatches at the moment I’m afraid
Hi Simon, I just wanted to add to the reviews of the PS Harris tweed now that I’ve received the jacket that I commissioned with it. I’m very pleased and impressed. It is such a versatile cloth as it just looks like a subtle brown from a distance but the colours when you observe it up close add so much interest and pleasure. I’d also like to add that Saman Amel did a great job of creating a jacket style wise that is perfect for my aim of pairing with both jeans and formal trousers. I had it made in their Napoli line with clean shoulders (no spalla camicia), three-roll-two and patch pockets, which has made it better than any other jackets I have to pair with denim in particular. Thanks again for giving bing your readers the opportunity to make use of this cloth.
Amazing. Thanks for letting me know
I had a jacket made up from PS Harris Tweed and it is just coming into its own as the weather gets genuinely cold and the jacket softens up after a few times of wearing.
I am in a bit of a quandary with finding trousers to go with it. I have some ‘anthracite flannel’ from Pini Parma and they are OK but just missing something. Lovely trousers and go well with my navy blazer however, I feel that grey trousers with a more flecked appearance or even a touch of blue would go nicer with the Harris Tweed. There are so many colours in the jacket I’d like to enhance the overall look but not clash with too many colours or patterns on both top and bottom.
Would a Donegal grey cloth work for trousers or would it be too much? Do you have any cloths that you would recommend?
Thank you in advance.
Lovely to hear. I love grey flannels with my jacket, but those ones from Pini Parma look like quite a lightweight and perhaps worsted flannel, making them a touch smarter. Perhaps that’s what you feel doesn’t quite work.
I wouldn’t pick up any colour from the jacket in the trousers. Do that through the shirt and accessories. For the trousers I’d stick with greys, greens and beiges.
Thank you for your advice.-much appreciated. You pretty much hit the nail on the head. I’ll keep my eye out for some heavier grey trousers or cloth to go with the jacket.
So when one says Harris Tweed, if authentic, it would be produced in specific locations in Scotland. So what does it mean when I find Harris Tweed by Holland and Sherry or even for that matter PS Harris Tweed? Does that imply that fabric is produced in outer Hebrides but now branded by different entities?
Yes. Many people and brands sell authentic Harris Tweed. As in most things, the producers aren’t usually the retailers.
Sorry, can we get another estimation of the next run? Would really like to have a jacket made for December 2022. Kind of running out of time…
I’m hoping it should be August
Are you accepting orders initially only from those who registered with your waiting list? Will we get alert emails ahead of public release? Previously the fabric quickly sold and I missed my opportunity!
Don’t suppose you accept prepayment similar to the material used in your Raglan overcoats?
Those on the waiting list always get first notification, yes, and you can email the support team to get on that.
I’m afraid we’re not accepting prepayment, no, but I doubt it will go that quickly. If you’re on that list I’m sure you won’t miss out.
Still waiting for the notification email on availability of the fabric. To your knowledge are you still anticipating August arrival?
Yes, it should actually be available this week
Can I confirm that it would be appropriate for me to purchase 2.5 meters of length? I’m 6’0-6’1″ tall and 190 pounds. I want to have a sportcoat / blazer made. Don’t want to order too much length that I don’t need. Thank you!
Yes, that should be fine. Always worth checking with your tailor, but 2.5 should be fine
Simon, is this tweed waterproof to a certain extent? Does it repel water more than a regular wool overcoating cloth? Or do you find any of your overcoats equally appropriate in the rain?
Tweed is a little better at repelling the rain, yes. It’s hairiness helps keeps moisture away from the rest of the cloth. But it is a minor thing – it won’t make a big difference if you’re in anything like heavy rain.
Pfuuuuuuuuuuuuuuua it is a mesmerizing tweed! 🙂
I just came back from outer Hebrides because I wanted to visit the Harris Tweed mills for years and see by myself theses remote landscapes. It is a truly amazing experience and I love so much to be able to wear a cloth made 100% in northern Europe from the wool to all the processes which is actually pretty difficult to find.
Wish I would have found such a brown tweed haha ended up buying a Harris Tweed herringbone trouser from Walker Slater as well as few meters of cloths on Lewis isle.
Simon, what do you think about using the PS tweed for a peacoat? I admire your Liverano ulster, but I think I would get more use out of a short coat, since I am cycling a lot.
I think it would be too soft and spongey – you want something harder and denser for a pea coat. Sorry
Is tradition behind your answer (peacoats fabric has been melton) or practicality? Sorry for insisting, but I liked the idea very much. And harris tweed does not seem to be the first coice for ulster coats either, but looks so great on your Liverano.
Practicality and style. A pea coat looks great because of its clean lines, stiff lapels and collar. It would lose that
I have proudly purchased PS Shetland Tweed and Harris Tweed. Do you ever plan to offer a Navy blue or Grey coating fabric?
No current plans, no Robert. We tend to do these only when there isn’t something we like in that area – we think it’s unique.
Is there anything you feel is lacking in either of those colours of coating?
It’s a very beautiful tweed. The other thing I’d say is it’s surprisingly light and has some stretch. My jacket made from it feels almost like a jersey jacket.
Nice point Will