Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

January 15th 2024

  This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one ...

Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

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It's at waist level, straight...

CoatsJanuary 15th 2024

The Guide to Tweed: Bunches

December 6th 2023

In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...

The Guide to Tweed: Bunches

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That’s a big help as I love the Fox Tweed Dark green POW check and the some of the dark blue choices in same POW check. Nicely saturated with various colors mixed in the design. Best, Robert...

ClothDecember 6th 2023

The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...

July 7th 2023

Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...

The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...

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They would certainly make a half-lined (they might call it a buggy lining) blazer, no issues there...

ClothJuly 7th 2023

A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches

November 9th 2022

I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi . I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place...

A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches

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It wasn't, but I think you're right, that's probably a good idea...

ClothNovember 9th 2022

Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review 

May 18th 2022

This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check th...

Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review 

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Hmm, ok, sorry about that. I will ask them about it next time I see them...

JacketsMay 18th 2022

An investment dressing gown, made-to-order by Budd

February 4th 2022

Last winter, I spent a good few weeks looking for a dressing gown that would be worth investing in - something luxurious, to last many years but also enjoy at every stage. My existing gown was a towelling model from Anderson & Sheppard, whi...

An investment dressing gown, made-to-order by Budd

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Informative Article!!!!!!!!!!...

February 4th 2022

Introducing: PS Harris Tweed

April 23rd 2021

My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now. Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below ), a fantastic ulster coat from L...

Introducing: PS Harris Tweed

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Wonderful. Thanks for sharing Robert...

ClothApril 23rd 2021

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

March 8th 2021

Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury   I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

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Amazing, so pleased Matthew. That's time, money and waste all saved!...

TrousersMarch 8th 2021

Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...

October 23rd 2020

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...

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It is a hard thing to define, for me at least. I think better just to try with white or off-white and see what difference you get on your own skin...

CoatsOctober 23rd 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

June 10th 2020

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should...

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

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Overlooked that…excellent! Many thanks Lindsay...

SuitsJune 10th 2020

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutt...

May 8th 2020

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him? Simple: never let him meet the customers. I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cutting room. Unlike most t...

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutt...

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Well, best to judge trousers on where they sit standing up I think. Have a look at my various suit reviews and you'll get a better sense of the trouser length I like - eg the review of Suzuki's suit is here I'm not sure ...

SuitsMay 8th 2020

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

October 21st 2019

This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

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The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...

ClothOctober 21st 2019

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

September 11th 2019

Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

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They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...

Bags - ClothSeptember 11th 2019

A guide to high-twist bunches

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches

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I wouldn't say so, no. If you were wearing only very smart clothing, they might be a little casual, but that's a tiny point. I think they'll be very versatile...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

March 22nd 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

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I do understand. No worries. Thanks again Lindsay...

ClothMarch 22nd 2019

A guide to linen bunches

June 15th 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...

A guide to linen bunches

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I wouldn't think so, no...

ClothJune 15th 2018

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

April 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separa...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

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Well I'd hope it's not a question of fashions. Yes those are still great, though personally I prefer the Ascot bunch from Drapers, probably the four ply...

TrousersApril 18th 2018

B&Tailor jacket via Robin Pettersson: Review

February 9th 2018

I had this tweed jacket made by South Korean house B&Tailor over the past 18 months, using Robin Petterson - a Swede who does their fittings in London and at home in Stockholm. Unfortunately, although the end result isn’t too bad (just...

B&Tailor jacket via Robin Pettersson: Review

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This oatmeal tweed with a black roper? I'm not sure to be honest, that would create quite a lot of contrast between shirt and jacket. Is it a combination you've seen work elsewhere?...

JacketsFebruary 9th 2018

Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

June 21st 2017

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets and suiting, and cre...

Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

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I don't, sorry Darius...

Jackets - TrousersJune 21st 2017

Cavalry twill for trousers

March 22nd 2017

Finding the right material for odd trousers - those worn with sports jackets rather than suits - is not easy. The kind of smooth, worsted cloths you're used to wearing as part of a suit are too sleek and formal. Many cottons, particularly garment-w...

Cavalry twill for trousers

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Yes - a little smart, but they work well...

TrousersMarch 22nd 2017

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

January 9th 2017

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sits closest to the body, and the...

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

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I accidentally bought too much of the PS Shetland Tweed. I'm having a jacket made, as planned, and with the excess I'm having a waistcoat made in a similar style to this one. I hope it will prove a nice standalone and la...

JacketsJanuary 9th 2017

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke fro...

July 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs)....

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke fro...

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With something that sounds pretty minor like that, yes I will usually. It's just the character of the piece...

Cloth - SuitsJuly 20th 2016

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

June 23rd 2016

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the chest, perfect on the shoulde...

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

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I wouldn't think that would be a good idea, no. You want some difference in texture or pattern - applies to pretty much all identical materials...

SuitsJune 23rd 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

June 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields befo...

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

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It varies, but largely yes...

June 21st 2016

The Holland & Sherry cloths I have known

June 3rd 2016

At the Young Tailors Symposium in a couple of weeks, we will have one floor of the Stefano Bemer atelier dedicated to my favourite Holland & Sherry cloths. Holland & Sherry have generously supported the event, and I thought the best...

The Holland & Sherry cloths I have known

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I don't think so, no. Is it a large rip? Invisible mending might be able to fix it - it won't be cheap, but a lot cheaper than a new suit...

ClothJune 3rd 2016