Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

June 21st 2017

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out int...

Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out int...

Jackets - TailoringJune 21st 2017

Cavalry twill for trousers

March 22nd 2017

Finding the right material for odd trousers - those worn with sports jackets rather than suits - is not easy. The kind of smooth, worsted cloths you're used to wearing as part of a suit are too sleek and formal. Many c...

Cavalry twill for trousers

Finding the right material for odd trousers - those worn with sports jackets rather than suits - is not easy. The kind of smooth, worsted cloths you're used to wearing as part of a suit are too sleek and formal. Many c...

Tailoring - TrousersMarch 22nd 2017

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

January 9th 2017

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sit...

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sit...

Casual wear - TailoringJanuary 9th 2017

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

July 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the materi...

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the materi...

Cloth - SuitsJuly 20th 2016

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

June 23rd 2016

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the...

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the...

Suits - TailoringJune 23rd 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

June 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

TailoringJune 21st 2016

The Holland & Sherry cloths I have known

June 3rd 2016

At the Young Tailors Symposium in a couple of weeks, we will have one floor of the Stefano Bemer atelier dedicated to my favourite Holland & Sherry cloths. Holland & Sherry have generously supported the event, ...

The Holland & Sherry cloths I have known

At the Young Tailors Symposium in a couple of weeks, we will have one floor of the Stefano Bemer atelier dedicated to my favourite Holland & Sherry cloths. Holland & Sherry have generously supported the event, ...

ClothJune 3rd 2016

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

April 4th 2016

There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extre...

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extre...

Jackets - StyleApril 4th 2016

Wearing sports jackets and texture: Alan See

June 17th 2015

I know that one of the style areas people find most difficult is wearing sports jackets, or separate waistcoats, with everything else: shirt, tie, hank, trousers. I’ve always loved the way Alan at The Armoury wea...

Wearing sports jackets and texture: Alan See

I know that one of the style areas people find most difficult is wearing sports jackets, or separate waistcoats, with everything else: shirt, tie, hank, trousers. I’ve always loved the way Alan at The Armoury wea...

Jackets - TailoringJune 17th 2015

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

April 17th 2013

As I mentioned in my previous post on Yorkshire mills and merchants, Pennine is one of the best independent mills left in the area. It is also the largest worsted weaver in the UK, with 32 Dornier looms, and weaves 30,00...

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

As I mentioned in my previous post on Yorkshire mills and merchants, Pennine is one of the best independent mills left in the area. It is also the largest worsted weaver in the UK, with 32 Dornier looms, and weaves 30,00...

Cloth - TailoringApril 17th 2013

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among besp...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among besp...

Cloth - TailoringApril 15th 2013

Steven Hitchcock – the first fitting

February 3rd 2012

This is the basted fitting on a tweed jacket and moleskin trousers from Steven Hitchcock, ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter and now very successful in his own right. It is a pocket baste, in that the front edges are unf...

Steven Hitchcock – the first fitting

This is the basted fitting on a tweed jacket and moleskin trousers from Steven Hitchcock, ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter and now very successful in his own right. It is a pocket baste, in that the front edges are unf...

TailorsFebruary 3rd 2012

Steven Hitchcock: a stylish tweed

January 27th 2012

The Rake is running a few articles at the moment around the theme of families, and particularly fathers and sons. Tailoring is particularly strong ground for these relationships, I suppose because it is so male dominated...

Steven Hitchcock: a stylish tweed

The Rake is running a few articles at the moment around the theme of families, and particularly fathers and sons. Tailoring is particularly strong ground for these relationships, I suppose because it is so male dominated...

TailorsJanuary 27th 2012

Innovation in denim at Rapha

June 29th 2011

I’m always interested in innovations in fabric, and one of the excuses for featuring my favourite cycling brand – Rapha – is that they are constantly pushing boundaries here, whether on wool, leather (b...

Innovation in denim at Rapha

I’m always interested in innovations in fabric, and one of the excuses for featuring my favourite cycling brand – Rapha – is that they are constantly pushing boundaries here, whether on wool, leather (b...

Casual wear - DenimJune 29th 2011