Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

April 4th 2016

There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extremes, I would argue proportions...

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

Match in comments:
I think it would look great in either, and no, I really don't think a cut always looks better in any particular fabric - just different. Eg a fine worsted is more formal and arguably suits a sharper cut. But there is som...

Jackets - StyleApril 4th 2016

Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...

June 17th 2015

I know that one of the style areas people find most difficult is wearing sports jackets, or separate waistcoats, with everything else: shirt, tie, hank, trousers. I’ve always loved the way Alan at The Armoury wears these things together, ...

Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...

Match in comments:
How true. Think what you want about the clothes — for me they are more an exercise in fashion rather than style — that said, all is ruined by the phenomena of 'the dodgy barnett '. All of us that are lucky enough to ...

Jackets - June 17th 2015

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

April 17th 2013

As I mentioned in my previous post on Yorkshire mills and merchants, Pennine is one of the best independent mills left in the area. It is also the largest worsted weaver in the UK, with 32 Dornier looms, and weaves 30,000-35,000 metres a week (most f...

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

Match in comments:
excellent well presented thank you...

ClothApril 17th 2013

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

  I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

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Thanks Simon!...

ClothApril 15th 2013

Steven Hitchcock – the first fitting

February 3rd 2012

This is the basted fitting on a tweed jacket and moleskin trousers from Steven Hitchcock, ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter and now very successful in his own right. It is a pocket baste, in that the front edges are unfinished as well as the col...

Steven Hitchcock – the first fitting

Match in comments:
Hi Paul, It is indeed, but the number of changes here is only slightly more than I've had at other tailors for my first piece. I've actually just had the second fitting, and neither the trouser width nor the jacket lengt...

February 3rd 2012

Steven Hitchcock: a stylish tweed

January 27th 2012

The Rake is running a few articles at the moment around the theme of families, and particularly fathers and sons. Tailoring is particularly strong ground for these relationships, I suppose because it is so male dominated, because cutting is a solo cr...

Steven Hitchcock: a stylish tweed

The Rake is running a few articles at the moment around the theme of families, and particularly fathers and sons. Tailoring is particularly strong ground for these relationships, I suppose because it is so male dominated...

January 27th 2012

Innovation in denim at Rapha

June 29th 2011

I’m always interested in innovations in fabric, and one of the excuses for featuring my favourite cycling brand – Rapha – is that they are constantly pushing boundaries here, whether on wool, leather (both of which I&...

Innovation in denim at Rapha

I’m always interested in innovations in fabric, and one of the excuses for featuring my favourite cycling brand – Rapha – is that they are constantly pushing boundaries here, whether on wool, leather (both of which...

DenimJune 29th 2011