I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale.
There is then the finishing, which I will go into in a separate post. WT Johnson’s (below) and Holmfirth are the most significant fine worsted finishers remaining, though a re-vitalised Herbert Roberts is also improving.
Some merchants also own their own production. Scabal, for example, owns the Bower Roebuck mill, which then produces 99% for Scabal. And Holland & Sherry, which is now owned by the Tom James group of travelling tailors in the US, has a lot of its cloth woven by the Chilean mills that are also part of that US group. In fact, that organisation is entirely vertically integrated, from (Chilean) sheep to tailor.
- Bower Roebuck (owned by Scabal)
- C&J Antich & Sons
- Bulmer & Lumb (incorporating old mill names Taylor & Lodge, Arthur Harrison, Kaye & Stewart and Edwin Woodhouse)
- Gamma Beta (incorporating Hield and Moxon)
- Luxury Fabric (incorporating John Foster, William Halstead and Joshua Ellis
And the major merchants with operations in the UK are:
- Holland & Sherry (owned by the US Tom James group)
- LBD Harrison’s (owned by the Dunsford family in Exeter)
- LBD bought Harrison’s a while ago, and also now owns the Lesser’s name and Porter & Harding
- Smith’s (only English merchant based in London)
- Owns W Bill
- Dugdale (only merchant still in the centre of Huddersfield)
- Owns Thomas Fisher and Duffin & Peace names
- Huddersfield Fine Worsteds (Owned by US distributors HMS)
- Owns Minnis, John G Hardy, Hunt & Winterbotham
- Brook Taverner
- Bateman & Ogden