The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore 

October 11th 2023

Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...

The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore 

Match in comments:
Yes...

SuitsOctober 11th 2023

The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...

July 7th 2023

Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...

The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...

Match in comments:
No I think it would be, yes...

ClothJuly 7th 2023

A guide to high-twist bunches

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches

Match in comments:
Good point Peter. I'd add that it is a touch more smooth and suit-like, but only a touch, and that's always the trade off with these high twists...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...

March 3rd 2014

Last week the sale was finalised of the W Bill and Smith’s cloth brands to LBD Harrison‘s. The company, run by Mark Dunsford, has been built on acquisitions, starting with Pedersen & Becker over 20 years ago and more recen...

W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...

Match in comments:
Not really a football fan I'm afraid. Cycling, cricket and rugby, in that order...

ClothMarch 3rd 2014

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

  I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
Thanks Simon!...

ClothApril 15th 2013

Reader question: belts with suits

March 29th 2013

Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. Sh...

Reader question: belts with suits

Match in comments:
Regarding suit jackets, I’ll be trying my current Steed Jacket, currently paired with trousers and braces/side-adjusters, with another pair of “belted”and indeed very much cheaper RTW grey trousers to check the loo...

Belts and wallets - Reader questionsMarch 29th 2013

The reputation of Smith & Co

July 26th 2010

Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier ...

The reputation of Smith & Co

Match in comments:
I have a cream lambswool twinset size 42" bearing the label in both pieces 'W BILL, Old Bond Street - pure cashmere', in perfect condition. I would be interested to know if it was produced before W Gibb was taken over an...

ClothJuly 26th 2010