The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Match in comments:
Thanks. I can see the trousers on myself more with a knit as well rather than a jacket. Perhaps a shawl collar...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Match in comments:
It could certainly work with flannel, yes. I wouldn't necessarily want it for colder weather though, as you say...
A guide to high-twist bunches
This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...
A guide to high-twist bunches
Match in comments:
Nice, looking forward to seeing you too. It would be good for the moderate cold, yes, though I think the 4-ply might be a little better. The 6-ply doesn't really add much warmth but is rather heavier, sharper...
W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...
Last week the sale was finalised of the W Bill and Smith’s cloth brands to LBD Harrison‘s. The company, run by Mark Dunsford, has been built on acquisitions, starting with Pedersen & Becker over 20 years ago and more recen...
W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...
Match in comments:
Not really a football fan I'm afraid. Cycling, cricket and rugby, in that order...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
Match in comments:
Hi Nicholas, A lot of mills and merchants put that on the selvedge unfortunately, so that won't help you identify the maker. However, the 'Feather' might tell you more. You'd need to speak to someone who's been in the En...
Reader question: belts with suits
Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. Sh...
Reader question: belts with suits
Match in comments:
I don't like it myself - the only possible attraction is that it suggests a certain casualness or sprezzatura, but I don't think it normally succeeds there...
The reputation of Smith & Co
Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier ...
The reputation of Smith & Co
Match in comments:
I have a cream lambswool twinset size 42" bearing the label in both pieces 'W BILL, Old Bond Street - pure cashmere', in perfect condition. I would be interested to know if it was produced before W Gibb was taken over an...
