A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

Match in comments:
This is the fabric in navy, not in dark brown for context of level of sheen....

ClothJuly 1st 2019

W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...

March 3rd 2014

Last week the sale was finalised of the W Bill and Smith’s cloth brands to LBD Harrison‘s. The company, run by Mark Dunsford, has been built on acquisitions, starting with Pedersen & Becker over 20 years ago and more recen...

W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...

Match in comments:
Not really a football fan I'm afraid. Cycling, cricket and rugby, in that order...

ClothMarch 3rd 2014

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

  I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
There's no guarantee that a cloth from an English name will be woven in England unfortunately. But you don't usually want Dormeuil, not being English, and you want to look at Dugdale, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, Fox, Smi...

ClothApril 15th 2013

Reader question: belts with suits

March 29th 2013

Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. Sh...

Reader question: belts with suits

Match in comments:
I don't like it myself - the only possible attraction is that it suggests a certain casualness or sprezzatura, but I don't think it normally succeeds there...

Belts and wallets - Reader questionsMarch 29th 2013

The reputation of Smith & Co

July 26th 2010

Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier ...

The reputation of Smith & Co

Match in comments:
I have a cream lambswool twinset size 42" bearing the label in both pieces 'W BILL, Old Bond Street - pure cashmere', in perfect condition. I would be interested to know if it was produced before W Gibb was taken over an...

ClothJuly 26th 2010