A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

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This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. 

As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something; and then to explain how the various bunches differ - so they know whether they care. 

Along the way, we explain some interesting things about how high-twists vary by weight, yarn and finish, and the different oddities like mock leno, stitched hopsacks and twist flannel.

High-twists are fantastic for trousers and suits to be worn in hot weather (a bit too sharp for a jacket on its own), and as a result most mills offer them. 

It’s worth remembering, therefore, that one high-twist doesn’t necessarily differ much from another: the mills are not trying to compete on the cloth itself; they just have a high-twist bunch in order to present a full range. 

If nothing below stands out for you as separating the different bunches - and you can’t feel or sense a difference when you see them in person - then I recommend picking on personal experience. Either yours, or someone you know. 

The methodology

Below the different high twists are set out as ‘qualities’. 

A quality is a cloth that only varies in colour and pattern. So a bunch might contain one quality (like Spring Ram) or several (like Finmeresco) with differences not just in colour and pattern, but also weight, weave or something else. 

We have organised the qualities by starting with the ‘core’ high-twists, in mid-weights, then setting out the lighter and heavier options, and finally summarising the other little variations. 

So, first the core high-twists. These are all plain-weave 100% worsted wools, with a weight between 10oz and 13oz. 

These are the qualities and bunches I would always suggest that readers look at first, and commission first if they have never had a high twist before - whether for a suit or for trousers. 

Fresco

Merchant: Huddersfield Fine Worsteds

Bunch: Fresco III, 

Weight: 9/10oz / 280/310g

The classic, Fresco is so well-known that it has almost become generic, with other high twist wools often referred to as ‘fresco’.

It also seems to make up an ever-greater share of the HFW range, with the brand new Fresco Select bunch introducing further colours and patterns.

I generally find Fresco to be among the scratchier of the core high twists (see Ambrosi example here), but that also usually means better performance (breathability and crease resistance). It is also softer now than it has been historically. 

Finmeresco 4- and 3-ply

Merchant: Smith Woollens

Bunch: Finmeresco

Weight: 13oz / 360-390g for 4-ply, 9-11oz / 280-310g for 3 ply

The Smith’s equivalent of Fresco, Finmeresco is notable for being in 3- and 4-ply options, rather than the standard 2-ply for high-twists of this weight. The extra ply makes the cloth feel a little thicker, but aids performance. 

The Finmeresco bunch has five different qualities in it, two of which we have included here. The 4-ply is solidly a core weight, while the 3-ply bridges core and lightweight.

It also doesn’t have a big colour range, sticking with darker, more conservative colours - but has lots of options there, such as the seven blues shown above. 

Crispaire

Merchant: Holland & Sherry

Bunch: Crispaire

Weight: 9/10oz / 280/310g

Holland & Sherry’s version is a 2-ply high-twist, and both a touch lighter and smoother than most of the others in this category.

Personally I’ve used it more than any other core high-twist (see Dalcuore suit here), and the range of colours is particularly broad (as with much of the Holland & Sherry range). Only Fresco has the same breadth.

The same quality also appears as a sister bunch called Extreme, which adds an even greater range of colours and patterns, many of them unusual.

Ascot 4-ply

Merchant: Drapers

Bunch: Ascot

Weight: 12oz / 370g

The Ascot bunch from Drapers has both 4-ply and a 2-ply options, with the 2-ply considerably lighter at 8oz/250g. 

Although I’ve tried both, I’d particularly recommend the 4-ply, which I had made into a charcoal suit by Sartoria Ciardi. It’s a touch heavier, but for trousers in particular it’s a weight most people can wear all summer. 

Spring Ram 2-ply

Merchant: Harrison’s

Bunch: Spring Ram

Weight: 12/13oz / 355/375g

The Spring Ram bunch is a relatively new one in this category. It’s a touch heavier than the others and feels even more substantial than the weight would suggest.

It’s a small bunch and so the range of colours (all plain) is small, but the main selling point is environmental: it uses British cheviot and crossbreed wool, which enables every process from the fleece to the cloth to be done within a 25-mile radius of the mill. 

There is also a 3-ply quality that weighs in at 16-17oz, which makes it the heaviest on this list. One for the purists, prepared to put up with the weight for a painfully sharp crease.

Fox Air

Merchant: Fox Brothers

Bunch: Fox Air

Weight: 10/11oz / 285/315g

Fox Air is also fairly new, introduced by Fox Brothers as part of a broadening of its range and inspired by a 1936-38 quality created for humid climates. 

The key attraction for me is the colours of the patterns. The harsh colours you often see in other bunches are replaced with soft blues and greys, muted browns and greens. More casual and less corporate.

I particularly like the brown and green for trousers, and had a cream-striped blue made into a suit by Kathryn Sargent (see post here). I found the cloth creased a tiny bit more than other high twists, but I’d still use it again by virtue of the colours.

Tropicalair High Twist

Merchant: Dugdale

Bunch: Tropicalair

Weight: 10.5oz / 300g

The high-twist option from Dugdale Brothers was originally created in the 1960s for the Hong Kong and Singapore market, in response to requests for something ‘linen-like’ in wool. 

I haven’t used the quality myself, but it is supposed to be woven slower than most high-twist cloths today - in a method more similar to the original weaving in the 1960s. Although the bunch is big and there are several checks and stripes, the colours are all quite dark and formal.

Explorer

Merchant: Standeven

Bunch: Explorer

Weight: 11oz / 310g

The least-known in this area is probably the Explorer quality from Standeven, which uses a slightly coarser merino than some of the others, in a panama plain weave. It has an especially dry, crisp handle, almost like mohair. 

The bunch also includes a lightweight quality at 8.5oz / 240g, which is particularly soft, and a Super 120s quality that is one of the few here to use a finer-micron wool. There are three Solaro-like options at the back.

Lightweight high-twists

If we now go into the variations, the most obvious to look at is lighter weights - as these will be of particular interest to those living in especially hot or humid countries. 

The options from the different bunches here are:

Fresco Light (9oz / 280g)

  • This uses a finer wool than the standard fresco, helping with the lightness.

Finmeresco 3-ply (9-11oz / 280-310g)

  • Mentioned above, in the Finmeresco bunch. Has the same good range of similar colours. 

Cape Horn/Summer Ascot (8oz / 260g)

  • These are Holland & Sherry’s lighter weight high-twist bunches, with Summer Ascot expanding the colour and pattern range of Cape Horn, as Extreme does with Crispaire.

Eco Traveller (7.5oz / 230g)

  • Another from Holland & Sherry, with less finish and a focus on minimising water use as a key selling point.

Ascot 2-ply (8oz / 250g)

  • The heavier version of Ascot, as mentioned above. I have a suit from Sartoria Cornacchia in it that I have yet toe feature. 

Explorer (8.5oz / 240g)

  • The lighter option from Standeven, again as mentioned above.

Tonik Wool (9.5oz / 295g)

  • A rare entry here from Dormeuil. The key attraction is that Dormeuil try to replicate as much of the dry, crisp feeling of their famous Tonik cloth but in 100% wool, so without the mohair. The quality also uses Patagonian wool, which is supposed to be more sustainable.

Heavy high twists

All suiting materials used to be much heavier than modern ones, of course, with more emphasis on strength and longevity.

Anyone looking for that more vintage feel might want to look at the heavier high twists - or indeed someone that wants the same look, but to wear in cooler temperatures. 

The major options here are:

Fresco 3-ply (14/15oz / 435/470g),

  • Still within the Fresco III bunch. Twists together a single and 2-ply yarn of the same yarn quality found in the 2-Ply Fresco  

Spring Ram 3-ply (16/17oz / 460-480g)

  • As mentioned above, this is the heaviest of the high-twist options, and has a nice heft to it too

Other variations

One of the more confusing things about high-twists is the various qualities that are mixed into bunches, or high-twists that have different uses than the ones we’re used to (suits or trousers). 

These include: 

Mesh jacketings

  • High-twist wool is often used to make a jacketing, just in a more open and often looser weave to make it more suited to a jacket. These include stitched hopsack, mesh and mock leno (above). The Fresco III bunch has a mock-leno quality in it, as does Finmeresco and Tropicalair

Plain-weave worsteds

  • These are not high-twist wools, but are often lumped into this category by virtue of their plain weave and crisp finish. They should be treated like a normal suiting. Finmeresco’s Plain Weave quality is an example, as are Golden Fox and Harrison’s Frontier bunch.

Sleek high twists

  • Lightweight suitings that are made with a high-twist wool in order to keep some body, but without the dry finish we expect of a normal high twist. These include the Dragonfly and Snowy River bunches from Holland & Sherry, and Capri from Scabal

Mohair mixes

  • Using mohair in with the wool to give even more of a sharp line. Treat as a mohair - which you might like or not. Includes Fresco Mohair and several bunches from Standeven such as Cape Town and Carnival

Flannel finish

  • High twists usually have a flat, dry finish. Twist Travel Flannel from Dugdale’s is unusual in heavily milling the cloth to give it a fuzzy texture. However, I wouldn’t say it feels like flannel really. Just a softer finish on a high-twist - and perhaps a touch more casual as a result. 
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David G

Simon all very interesting, but why do you choose to write a piece about cloth oriented to warmer months in July?

Most houses add very little to their core ranges year to year, and so writing about it in January would make more sense.

Any reader deciding to go off and commission something in this cloth today would be lucky to get their garment before the autumn……….

Anonymous

Bit harsh. I’ve just ordered a suit length of Minnis Fresco for a suit I’ll be using next year….

Henry

Hi Simon, I have question regarding H&S high-twist fabrics, would you prefer their Crispaire or Eco-traveller range for summer odd trousers? Regards Henry

Peter

Summer in London or somewhere where summer is actually hot? I’ve found Crispaire to be neither particularly crisp nor particularly airy. I would try Finmeresco or Minnis Fresco for a true summer cloth.

David

Hi Simon,

Crispaire is lovely but certainly not as opened and breathable than the HFW Fresco. I got bespoke pants in these two fabrics. The grail would be a Fresco with the softness of the Crispaire. Fresco is definitely super scratchy.

Otávio

Simon, this article is certainly the best I have ever read about high-twist wool. I have a question for you, since I am from Brazil, living in a city that is humid 100% of the year and hot for at least 9 months. I am about to order my first bespoke suit. I have yet to decide if I am going to order a navy suit from a plain weave cloth (like NFW from Dugdale or Frontier, which I assume is a little more airy than regular twill) or from a mid weight high-twist (3-ply Finmeresco or Crispaire). Of course, the suit is going to be quarter lined for more air flow. Do you think the high-twist options would be a little informal (or less versatile/suitable) for a first suit?

Thank you!

Burt

I’d personally go for the New Fine Worsted by Dugdale (280-300 g). It is is a cool wool, comparable to the Capri Bunch (260 g) by Scabal, right? While I’m happy with the Minni’s Fresco garments in my wardrobe, at the end of the day I find the cool wool much more comfortable. Also, it makes me totally forget what I’m wearing, whereas the slightly scratching fresco in a way makes me feel like I’m attending a formal event. I’m probably going to give the NFW a try myself for next summer.

Raphael Tamaki

Hi, Otávio,

I’m Brazilian as well, from São Paulo. As someone who suffers a lot from the heat, I liked the ideia of two different bunches: Cool Effect from Zegna and English Mohair from Holland & Sherry.

The Cool Effect is a very thin and open weave fabric (you can really see through), and it has the additional advantage of the treatment Zegna applies that says it reflect infrared rays. But it is a very delicate fabric, so for your first suit maybe not the best option, unless you will only use the suit every so often.
The English Mohair is very similar to fresco, but it felt less itchy for me and a bit lighter in weight. Also, mohair is a very strong fabric, so it will add some durability to the suit.
Personally, I plan to have my next suit in English Mohair(instead of the Co Effect) mainly because of durability (and of course, the fabric there are lovely).
So, look at those bunches and see if you like. I am not sure whether Simon has an opinion to the bunches I mentioned.
On another noted, where are you from? Where are you going to make the suit?

Gonzague

– What would be the drawbacks of high twists, beyond likely scratchiness ? Does it not move as nicely as normal fabrics?
– Are there no high twist twills?
– do you know the business flair bunch by Zegna? It looks very soft, wondering whether this is high twist flannel.
– is mock Leno not essentially for jackets? Tropicalair ML weave having so much texture for example.

Toby

I’ve had many suits made up from both Fresco and Finmeresco, and have always gone for the heavier weight, which makes them ideal 3 season cloths.

As regards scratching, I think it’s easy to overstate the problem; makes no difference in the coat if it unlined as you will be wearing a shirt, and if the trousers are unlined you will stop noticing after about 5 minutes.

As to your “cold” comment Simon, these cloths do not feel appreciably different from normal worsted unless it’s windy. They are designed to let the air travel through them.

Gonzague

It seems high twist was created to give open weave summer cloths some crease resistance. Then how do Traveler cloths differ from the above? Do Traveler fabrics also breath a lot? What would be wrong with a high twist twill for travelling in normal or coldertempetatures?

FIDELIO

Hi Simon,
Great summary. I have a navy 8.5oz hopsack jacket which I currently use year round in NYC. I would like to add another one but for 3 season use. What would you think of the Finmeresco Mock Leno 12-13ozs for a navy blazer like this? Any other suggestion?
Looking forward eagerly for your article on a capsule collection of sports jackets.
Thanks,

FIDELIO

Simon what is the difference between the Holland & Sherry Mesh and say the Fresco III Mock Leno? They seem pretty much the same. Any points of difference in formality or performance for say a navy blazer? Thanks.

Derek

Hi Simon, thank you so much for your helpful article. Currently I’m thinking about using Crispaire to make an everyday 2 piece navy suit. As you mentioned in your article, high twist might be too sharp for a jacket. Do you think that might happen to a Crispaire also? Since I might wear it as a jacket also.

Thanks

Derek

Thank you Simon!

Anonymous

Linen can work in this regard, I find. Though admittedly it isn’t working as a smart suit, more a knockabout.

Robin

I’m always when you hear tailors mention the number of cloths they can make a suit from and the hundreds of bunches .
Do they even use more then 20 or so ? and what is the point of such a large range ?

More specifically I’m looking at taking the big leap and meeting up with Prologue in sept/oct (largely thanks to your writeups).
Would you suggest I do some of my own research on cloths (look online at cloths ) or just leave it to them?

Richard

Hi Simon,

Do these cloths crease like linen? I really like the colour of the tobacco linen suit you had made at Dege & Skinner, but would like something that doesn’t crease and is still lightweight. Might this be an option?

Many thanks

S

Simon,

Could you please also add the Bard book by Lovat?

Thanks,
S

J. Girdwood

Lovat Mill are just about to re-issue the Bard bunch but the details weren’t confirmed in time for the feature. It should be released later this year I believe.

Anonymous

Given the wide ranges available I’d rather consult with the tailor/cutter first, though as a starting point the article is very informative. As a follow up could you advise (in an article?) as to how your own conversations unfold. Do you have a pre-existing choice at the start, do you discuss options (a tailor might advise that a cloth type may, in actuality, not drape or shape as well as it comparatively might etc.) or do you rely more on their advice with a few suggestions of your own? Furthermore how much time do you invest in consideration of this, given the central importance of the decision?

Sukamoto

Hi Simon, just want to add that the Dugdale TropicalAir High Twist book is on the reverse side of the Mockleno book photographed. Mockleno is for jacketings, and the reverse side is for suitings.

Vinay

Hi Simon,

You didn’t mention any of the VBC tropical worsted fabrics. I don’t think they have a lot but they offer a lightweight 260g option in a few blue and grey colours. They are also 3-ply I believe. Does the 3 ply provide more weight to the fabric for durability?

Also what are your thoughts on VBC tropical vs the other fabrics in your article?

Thanks.

Vinay

Thanks that would be great. I essentially want to know if the tropical weave fabrics from the VBC fabric are in line with the other fabrics in your article.

Vinay

Thanks Simon. On the VBC website, I can only see a handful of options under the tropical weave category. Is this just a small subset of what they offer?

How can I tell if a VBC open weave fabric sample at a MTM business in Sydney is high twist or not? I took some photos but am not sure if you can determine the high twist nature by look or by feel/touch. Any tips to work that out would be greatly appreciated. Also, let me me know if I can send through photos if that would help. Thanks again.

Vinay

One last thing, what is the main difference with a VBC tropical open weave fabric that is high twist vs one that is not? Would it simply be the high twist would be less prone to getting wrinkled? Or does the high twist option provide other attributes? Thanks.

Bast

Thoughts on Davies and sons and Denman and Goddard?

Seb

I’m looking to get a bespoke suit but don’t have much money.

Is Grahame Browne of Whitcome and Shaftesbury my best bet?

H

Is there a reason you didn’t pick Prologue here too Simon?

Joseph

Excellent article Simon, this has helped me understand a little more about high-twists.

I believe the note on your Dalcuore suit under the Crispaire section links to the wrong suit? Was expecting to see that beautiful, dark brown suit but was greeted by your (also beautiful) Drapers donegal.

Joseph

No worries, cheers

Andrey

Simon, why Dormeuil is a rare entry here, if I may ask? Any particular reason for not featuring them?

Andrey

Yes, I’m sorry, I should have made it clearer – you prefaced it by saying “A rare entry here from Dormeuil”, so I was wondering if you had somewhat negative view about their cloth.

Btw, I had a suit in Tonik Wool made recently and I absolutely love the feel and the way it wears so far.

Rune

I am trying to enjoy the summer. i wonder if you could do an article about clothes for the summer party?

Rune

Both would be interesting. But if both then please one article on each. Sure this will be interesting?.

Carl

Great post!

I wonder if you have a general opinion on solaro cloth and how it compares with high-twist wools?

pat

hi simon,

i’d also like to try it out in person too. what do you think of a navy solaro- so hardly any two town as such?

Lindsay Eric McKee

This is another great post on cloth bunches and indeed answers my questions.
Interestingly I visited the Scabal shop in Brussels and was amazed by the silken sheen of the cotton summer trousers.
I wonder what other cloth bunches would attain to this higher cotton quantity which was a very beautiful cloth indeed as was the herringbone cashmere in their “Charme ” bunch.
Thanks again
Lindsay

Fastship

I can endorse Holland & Sherry Crispaire, I bought a length (Chestnut Solid Product Code: 337046) which I intend to have run up into a classic summer weight Milanese suit this winter. My advice would be to buy a length you like when you see it as they sell out fast!

I love Fox, I would very much like to see the Fox Air and hope they continue broadening their range.

Phil

Dear Simon, thank you for sharing your profound knowledge with us. I’v read a lot of your articles and finally ordered three years ago two suits at one of the savile row house. I opted for an charcoal worsted three piece suit, which became one of my favourites. And for an 13 oz navy fresco DB, which is cut lovely. But I wished I ‘ve got the hint before, that despite the open weave, a suit made of such an heavy cloth isn’t as expected exactely a summer suit.

Alguna recomendación de Loro Piana?

Any Loro Piana recomendation?

Alexandre

Hi Somon, very interesting as always, thank you for that.

What about Solaro ? Where do you put it regarding summer fabrics ?

And by the way, could you do an article about ?

Salutations sartoriales !

Anonymous

Simon

I’m baffled as to why heavy weight high twists are offered. Minnis have a 14 oz . If the cloth is intended as a breathable summer cloth, why offer heavier weights? If worn in cooler temperatures, wouldn’t the open weave negate the heavier weight?

Anonymous

That’s fair enough. I guess having heavier cloth as cool as possible.

Anonymous

Would a 15.5oz fresco be too cold for a UK winter?

TM

The image of the Fresco Bunch reminds me of a question I have had for awhile. I’ve always struggled selecting ‘navy’ from such large books. Any advice on navigating that process?

Anonymous

I have a few samples of the Minnis navy and some are indeed midnight navy. Best to order samples, they’re free and will save you making a mistake. You’ll then be able to view the fabric in light and day.

Stephan

Dear Simon,
How do I check what cloth/bunch/weight etc. my suits are made of ? A few like PZ will have the name of the cloth producer inside, but not the weight, type of fabric, etc. Is it possible to track these down from the markings on the inside labels? Thanks!
Stephan

Stephan

Dear Simon,
If one lives in a place where it doesn’t get too cold (like minus 2-3 at worst), can the issue of ‘4 season wear’ of high twists be solved by extra layering, such as undershirts, cardigans, and cashmere socks in the winter?
Thanks,
Stephan

Anonymous

Thanks, Simon. Good to clarify that there is no really a true 4-season solution in climes that have all four of them.

Peter

Hi Simon – I know you have experience with Fox Air but have you also made something up in Golden Fox? How would you differentiate between the two along the lines of breathability, longevity, and travel performance (wrinkling)? Would you say one is hands down better than the other for hot weather? I suppose the more general question is whether a lighter weight plain weave worsted could be a better all around choice vs. a more specialized high twist in terms of versatility. Thank you.

Andrew Ng

Hi Simon,
Very informative post!I have come to appreciate H and S fabrics upon reading your several posts!
May I ask which collection from H and S would you recommend for a (first)suit in a tropical weather like Singapore but mainly in an office(Banking-related field) with AC and also the suit should be good for wearing a least 2-3 times a week and in an understated tone like navy or charcoal?
Thanks.
Andrew

Andrew Ng

Won’t Crispaire be too casual for banking office environment?
Am deciding between Crispaire/Cape Horn/Cape Horn Light Weight/Royal Mile.

Andrew Ng

Also Simon between those H and S fabrics and Zegna Trofeo Summer which is more suited for tropical and humid weather in your opinion?

Andrew

Hi, great and comprensive article, thank you very much!
Hi,
planning to have a bespoke suit made, I wonder if there are still those very, very heavy high-twist cloths, I mean such in the 500 -600 g range. Do you know any?

Thanks
Andrew

P

Hi Simon,

Thanks for a great article – Just want to clarify – In the first segment of this post you say the following “High-twists are fantastic for trousers and suits to be worn in hot weather (a bit too sharp for a jacket on its own)” and on a readers comment saying he wants to add another jacket for 3 season use you reply “I think Mock Leno is nice”

In your opinion, does Mock Leno have enough texture to be made up as a single jacket to be worn with odd trousers in fabrics such as cotton, linen and wool (tropical and flannels)?

If not, do you have another suggestion?

Best

P

Thanks Simon – I think its very similar to RJ Ballon in terms of the texture but vastly different in feel where Ballon is quite bouncy with soft feel and Mock Leno scratchy.

Anonymous

Are there any high twists that aren‘t scratchy, that feel similar to normal worsted wools? How soft and smooth is crispaire?

Do you really feel a big difference between a high twist suit and a lightweight worsted wool suit in hot weather?

Alex N.

Dear Simon,
I would like to ask you the following questions:
1. Do you have your high twist jackets always unlined?
2. I have a VBC/Drapers 4ply jacket. I find that it offers great wrinkle resistance when wearing
day to day, but doesn’t perform well when packed. When it’s packed, it develops large creases which are hard to iron out. Do you encounter the same issue?

Anonymous

Will the dugdale travel flannel runs significantly hotter than say Crispaire / Cape Horn lightweight, given that all of them are high twisted wool and in similar weight? Thanks!

Anonymous

Hi Simon, do you think the wool/mohair fabrics in Fresco III might be too stiff and sharp to make into a sports jacket? Do all fabrics in the Fresco III bunch have a mock-leno quality?

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

Is Finmeresco range good to have for trousers? does the cloth feel soft like crispaire or scratchy like Fresco?

Thanks

Rupesh

Rupesh Bhindi

Based on your breakdown of different weight of cloths;

1) Crispaire/Finmeresco/Fresco are summer cloths as they are open weave
2) For cooler months you would consider heavier cloths e.g drapers ascot bunch, flannel, in fact I like Finmeresco bunch, is there a heavier range in these weave available?
3) Are Dakota range from Holland and sherry ideal for wearing 2-3 seasons for example Cavallry Twill in beige?

Thanks

Rupesh

Peter

I’ve made trousers in Crispaire and Finmeresco. To me, Crispaire feels neither particularly crisp nor airy. Finmersco is both – holds a crease and breathes very well.

Dave Brand

Is it not true that you cannot obtain a 13 oz 3-ply Tonik since the year 2000 as since then Dormeuil has only produced Tonik 2000 which is only a 2-ply 11 oz material?

Mbb355

So do you not think that a Fox Air cloth such as this would be good for jacketing:

https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-air/products/plain-weave-walnut-classic-prince-of-wales-check

If not can you please elaborate on why that is? I think maybe you mean to say it’s too smooth and fine that it looks like a suit, but with a pattern and textured appearance like this cloth don’t you mitigate that problem?

MBB355

Thanks, Simon. I was hoping maybe you could elaborate on why you wouldn’t want it as a jacket, but I think I understand where you’re coming from. I’m also not sure I understand your final comment–the mill describes it as “suitable for suiting and jacketing” in the link I provided.

Can I ask what you think about this cloth for a four-season navy blazer: https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/sw2745/.

It’s from the Finmeresco line, which I think many people associate with suiting, but it’s a mock leno weave with plenty of texture that seems made for jacketing and would look odd as a suit in my opinion.

Mbb355

Thanks, SImon, very helpful. And true that but I live in a warmer climate where it really doesn’t get *THAT* cold. And as I’m hoping I can wear this year ’round, it’s more important to me that it performs well in heat and humidity, which I think it will due to its open weave and breathability. And yet it doesn’t seem to be too lightweight and flimsy like many summer jackets are–it still has some weight, body, and heft to it. That’s why I like it for year ’round wear.

Mbb355

Thanks. And your point on suiting v. jacketing is well taken. I am suspicious of fresco jacketing–it’s often too smooth, fine, and similar to a suit to work as jacketing. So I think you’re right there. For a summer sport coat, I think the best way to go is with some blend of wool/silk/linen, as it avoids any association with suiting, has a clear summery feel, and still works with a wide variety of trousers (including fresco)

Peter

Simon – while we’re on the topic, do you have a favorite summer weight navy sport coat fabric? A specific bunch or swatch, not category like “hopsack”. Thank you.

Alex N.

Dear Simon,
I wanted to point out that Crispaire is more tightly woven than Fox Air, clearly visible when the samples are in hand. Perhaps this is why crispaire has better wrinkle resistance but nevertheless I will go with Fox air as it should be cooler for a hot summer and the colours are beautiful! Which one do you perceive as the least warm?
Alex

Paul M

Thank you Simon. Would you say that linings prevent high-twist fabrics from being as breathable as they could be? Do you usually avoid linings for summer suits?

Phong

Hi Simon, I’ve recently been intrigued by the mohair tonik fabric from Dormeiul.

I’ve been looking for a breathable fabric, preferably a high twist to start my bespoke journey. I’ve been considering two of your other recommendations: crispaire and ascot 4 ply by drapers.

I’m not sure where this fabric falls in regards of formalities. I’m sure the community would like to.lesrn more about such a matter. If you would consider addressing this topic in a future post it would be greatly appreciated!

Anonymous

Hi Simon, do you know the fabric code for Drapers 4-ply in plain mid-grey?

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

Would a tan colour fresco jacket be great for a summer wardrobe addition where one can wear with off white and grey trousers?

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

Would a pale blue colour crispaire fabric for a jacket would be acceptable to wear with grey and cream trousers or would you look for texture?

Anonymous

Hi Simon, how does VBC’s Spring 4-ply (https://vitalebarberiscanonico.com/fabrics/21-micron/spring-4-ply/) compare with Draper’s 4-ply? Thanks

Anonymous

Thanks for your advice. Interesting that the VBC 4-ply is exactly the same as the Drapers 4-ply, but the latter cost quite a bit more.

Yun

Dear Simon,
Thank you for your helpful articles. What do you think is the best weight for a high-twist fabric for odd summer trousers? Should I pick the heaviest weight I can choose, like flannel?
and may I ask what you think about those cloths for summer odd trousers(and which of the two do you recommend more? and any other recommendations besides these two would be appreciated.):

  1. https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/ru/fabric/use/suits/3221018-airesco-grey-solid
  2. Fresco 3-ply (14/15oz / 435/470g)

Summer weather here is usually between 30℃ and 40℃, and these will be my first high-twist trousers, so I hope those pants be versatile.
Best,

JH

Following up on this, Simon, have you found any difference between Drapers 4-ply and Finmeresco 4-ply? They are the same weight and look remarkably similar, including on the pattern/design. Could they be the same product sold under different brands? Thanks.

Yun

Thanks for the reply! I was worried that the 9oz would be too light. but I was wrong.