Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

July 17th 2019

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it l...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

Match in comments:
Not off the top of my head, no, but if you can't find it in bunches like W Bill, Holland & Sherry or others than stock Irish linens, try Ulster Weavers or Baird McNutt, which are the mills they buy from (not everyone has...

SuitsJuly 17th 2019

A guide to high-twist bunches

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches

Match in comments:
Good point Peter. I'd add that it is a touch more smooth and suit-like, but only a touch, and that's always the trade off with these high twists...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieve...

May 27th 2019

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it felt more immediate and person...

Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieve...

Match in comments:
Thank you for your thoughts on this, Simon and I agree. Now on to find a nice trouser to pair it with as an alternative....

SuitsMay 27th 2019

How to layer knitwear

January 4th 2019

Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt under knitwear. The multiple layers are also easy to add and remove as the temperature varies. And stylish...

How to layer knitwear

Match in comments:
Oh, that's very good for me! Thank you, Simon!...

Knitwear - StyleJanuary 4th 2019

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...

December 28th 2018

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-...

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...

Match in comments:
Hi Antoine, Two fittings, though it would have been three if it were my first commission...

Bags - ClothDecember 28th 2018

The guide to summer jacket cloths

July 24th 2017

  In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang straight. Jackets are les...

The guide to summer jacket cloths

Match in comments:
Ok thanks. It’s good to know that linen is still a good choice. What about fresco and crispaire?...

ClothJuly 24th 2017

Superfines: The story of refining wool

March 9th 2017

Pop-up shop update: Sartoria Formosa are in the shop today, Friday and Saturday. Gennaro Formosa is on site, together with Gianluca Migliarotti – director of the ‘O Mast’ film among other things   There was a ti...

Superfines: The story of refining wool

Match in comments:
Will do...

ClothMarch 9th 2017

The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite

January 27th 2017

Someone asked me the other day when I'm going to run out of things to write about. To be honest I have yet to have that problem - there's usually too much rather than too little. But as one writes more (1612 posts and counting) it's nice to work on...

The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite

Match in comments:
Good question. It will appear as a main post as well. The microsite is more a grouping of relevant posts - and an easy place to link to for references...

ClothJanuary 27th 2017

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

January 23rd 2017

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats. When we describe the benefits of ga...

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

Match in comments:
I don't know I'm afraid, I don't have any experience with it...

ClothJanuary 23rd 2017

The A-Z of cloth

November 11th 2016

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and finishing. This took a lot of wor...

The A-Z of cloth

Match in comments:
Very few places do - there are places in the East End but the selection there is pretty random. Online a few houses do cloth straight to the consumer, like Fox for example, who are certainly one of the best for trousers....

ClothNovember 11th 2016

The guide to jacketings

October 17th 2016

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit? This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what should a man wear? Why doesn’...

The guide to jacketings

Match in comments:
Yes I think I would...

ClothOctober 17th 2016

Introducing: The Guide to Cloth

September 26th 2016

This week we are launching another big project for Permanent Style: The Guide to Cloth. This has been a long time in the works, but we wanted to do it right. There is a lot of piecemeal information out there about cloths, yarns and weaves, but (for m...

Introducing: The Guide to Cloth

Match in comments:
I will have to check the suit. Will get back to you....

ClothSeptember 26th 2016

The corduroy suit

September 9th 2016

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal environment like an office. Most no...

The corduroy suit

Match in comments:
Great, thanks, Simon....

Casual clothing - ClothSeptember 9th 2016

Interview: Gregor Thissen, Scabal

July 8th 2016

A couple of months ago I sat down with Gregor Thissen, Executive Chairman of cloth merchant Scabal, in Brussels after a tour of the factory. You can read more about Scabal and that factory on my first post here. Permanent Style: I’ve always ...

Interview: Gregor Thissen, Scabal

Match in comments:
From a Tailors perspective the issue of purchasing material on line is fraught with complications and customers need to be made aware that CMT is not a pathway to a cheaper suit. It is almost impossible to underwrite the...

ClothJuly 8th 2016

Scabal: Why make your own swatch books?

May 4th 2016

  Last week I was in Brussels visiting the headquarters of cloth merchant Scabal. They moved buildings two years ago and now have an attractive, open-plan space on top of their warehouse. That warehouse stores a lot of cloth. Most of the ...

Scabal: Why make your own swatch books?

Match in comments:
Not usually, no. Partly because the books have some cost, and partly because they don't usually have capacity to take on private customers...

ClothMay 4th 2016

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

  I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
Thanks Simon!...

ClothApril 15th 2013