This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.
But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.
The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it looks more like a dusty black - little of the green cast comes across. But outdoors, it’s definitely green, and looks good with other dark accessories.
It’s smart, but definitely not corporate. Even, perhaps, a little rock ‘n’ roll - a little like Davide [Taub, the cutter].
There is something of the evening about the colour, and I think some might consider it better suited to events after 6pm rather during the day.
It would certainly work well in that environment, and with black shoes and neckwear as it is pictured with.
But I like this sombre, serious look during the day - and if I wanted to brighten it up, I’ve found colours like yellow and pink also work nicely. They just have to pale, as equally muted as the green. (This tie from Drake’s works, for example.)
One thing that certainly wasn’t a risk was working with Davide.
As I mentioned on the previous article on this suit - covering its fitting - Davide and I have worked on a few things over the years, but this was our first suit.
I completely trusted him, making occasional suggestions around buttoning point or the trouser width, but that was it. I wanted his style as well as fitting.
That meant only a very light padded shoulder, with a touch more at the ends and in the sleevehead to give the shoulder line some lift.
It meant a relatively high buttoning point for me; fairly wide, slightly bellied lapels; and a sharp notch.
Quite narrow trousers too, which I was unsure of when we had the fittings, but I think work well (19 inches circumference at the knee, 15 at the hem).
Indeed, I might consider this width of trouser for suits more in the future.
It would be a little against the trend, given how many wide-leg trousers there are at the moment. But I do think over time it’s more likely to make a suit look younger and contemporary than the other way around.
The shoes are the black-cordovan Greenwich from Edward Green.
I like occasionally wearing black casual shoes like these with casual trousers and shirts (eg a white button down and dark-brown trousers).
As here, the colours need to be fairly cold, but it feels different without being showy.
There’s little to say here from a fit point of view. It’s just very good, and exactly what you should expect from a Savile Row suit.
There’s nothing I’d pick up or change in terms of fit, which is all the more impressive in a very light linen with lightweight padding and canvas.
Even that little kick below the waist button is nothing. The mere flap of the breeze.
One interesting thing is that, in my experience, there is a correlation between the price of bespoke and the quality of the fit and cut.
There are many exceptions. Cheap ones like Whitcomb & Shaftesbury can be excellent. Expensive ones like Rubinacci can have issues.
It’s not a very strong correlation, but it’s definitely there. I wouldn’t say it means you’ll always get better fit with bigger, more expensive houses. But I would say that men buying cheap bespoke should be aware that it’s a risk.
It might be because the cutter is inexperienced, or because they’re not incentivised to spend as much time as they should getting the fit right. But either way it’s something to keep in mind.
The make of the suit is extremely good: beautiful fine buttonholes, neat finishing on the inside, and jacket cloth running all round the in-breast pockets, making them stronger.
I also rather like the Gieves & Hawkes bespoke label. Generally I’d prefer the Savile Row approach of having no label visible, but the dark grey of this is nice. Sophisticated.
Looking at the suit in the pictures now, the only thing I think I would change if I ever made another suit with Davide is the buttoning point.
It could be a tad lower, and indeed Davide himself mentioned this when looking at the completed garment. As with the first suit with any tailor, it’s the beginning of a journey.
Not many start in as good a place as this one though.
The shirt shown here is a favourite: cotton/linen from Luca Avitabile. The stripe helps give a little pattern to the overall outfit, which otherwise would be rather plain.
The black grenadine tie is from Drake’s, as is the white linen handkerchief.
The panama hat is from Anderson & Sheppard. I remarked last summer how I had bought a sisal one from them in a pale brown, and liked the more casual nature of it.
That’s still the case, and that brown definitely gets more wear. But this smarter cream looks better with a sharp suit.
You can see the first fitting in this series here, while you can see all my previous projects with Davide on the dedicated Gieves & Hawkes page here.
Gieves bespoke suits start at £4420 plus VAT. The cloth is 250g Scabal linen, number 802258.
Photography above: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man. Photography below, Milad Abedi @milad_abedi
Amazing suit! It’s turned out really nice.
Simon
I’ve been toying with the idea of commissioning an 8oz navy seersucker suit. Do you think the weight is too light? Also, any idea is seersucker holds its shape well?
No the weight of the seersucker should be fine. And yes it generally holds its shape OK, but not as good as any wool – just a bit better than a normal lightweight cotton
This is a particularly fine example! Very sharp and quite different from standard Savile Row, yet reassuringly understated.
Wow, love this Simon. The proportions of the jacket to the slimness of the trousers feels great. What sort of length is the jacket?
I’ll do it in a full Style Breakdown at some point, but I believe it’s about 32 inches in the back seam
Do you measure from the bottom of the collar? Also, is your hat rollable? I recall you being slightly annoyed about the difficulties of travelling with fedora. What’s your opinion on the rollable ones offered out there? HAve you considered them? thx.
No, the hat is not rollable, I don’t like the crown shape of the rollable ones generally
I can remember when one walked into Gieves & Hawkes and aged 10 years looking at the RTW clothes .
They’ve certainly changed their cut and appeal to more contemporary tastes these days .
P.S. the suit is fabulous and the green is exquisite.
I like the suit a lot, but, and forgive me, the photos in your posts are becoming more staged every time and are beginning to look like the adverts in a fashion mag. They seem to focus more on you and less on the garments.
I’m also a bit surprised by your suggestion of black shoes with brown trousers. All a matter of taste but doesn’t sound like a good look at all.
Good feedback, thanks David. I do try to do a mix, but hopefully adding style shots rather than taking away product ones.
Oh, and on the brown trousers with black shoes, I find it works if the trousers are both dark and muted. Such as the charbrown ones from Fox in this post
Agreed with David G. Simon remains the best blogger, but I must admit the ego has rather soared and you have got a bit closer to the old Pitti Peacock than you used to be!
Black shoes are a exquisite combination with any brown garments.
Do agree, absolutely. And not only. Black shoes are perfect on any suit (i.e. jacket & trosers of same fabric) with very few exceptions. Browns are only suitable for umapired combinations, with very few exceptions
Simon, thank you for the review and congratulations on the suit!
How do you think this fabric would hold up in a travel suit? I am thinking of commissioning a suit which I am planning to use mainly for business travel – Do you have a view on what the best fabric would be for such a garment? Something that is sturdy enough to withhold the friction of plane and train seats without wearing out too quickly, but that is light at the same time and keeps its shape? Probably I am asking too much 🙂 but your feedback would be much appreciated! Thank you
Thanks David. No, I wouldn’t recommend a lightweight linen like this for a travel suit. It won’t be very robust, and will keep its creases.
You probably want a high-twist wool like Fresco or Crispaire. Lots of detail on those here.
Looks a treat! Nicely unique in the dark green.
A quick question: is it now standard for Savile Row Houses to place such garish looking advertising labels inside of their suits? I have not commissioned a suit from my tailor (it is not G &H) for a couple of years now but I see G & H are doing this, as do Dege and Skinner and Edward Sexton, so this would appear to be a new phenomenon which I fear is becoming a standard. I presume I will just have to ask my tailor to refrain from doing this when I commission my next suit. Anyhow, I do believe the green is a wonderful colour for the summer months. and the fit here is very good indeed,
No, it’s not standard practice for Row tailors to do this, and you can certainly ask not to have it. It tends to be done by the tailors that are more of a brand as well, and sell RTW – like Gieves
One of the nicest suits I’ve seen on you for a while. And useful too, I would imagine.
What colour are the buttons? A dark brown horn?
Yes, very dark brown. Davide was spot on with his button selection – always a good sign that a tailor has taste
Hi Simon,
Just out of curiosity, will David ever make suits for ordinary people other than influencers like yourself? Can someone actually ask him to cut or get involved etc in the bespoke process?
Thanks
Phil
Umm, yes absolutely 99% of his customers are normal people.
And I may be influential but I am not an influencer. I’m sure you didn’t mean to use the term that way, but today it has come to mean someone that tries to develop influence purely to sell it, and will sell to anyone with money.
To reassure you Phil, Davide has personally made and fitted all 3 bespoke items I have commissioned from G&H (2 overcoats and a suit) and I am a mere punter.
Is the suit lined?If not,would you normally go for an unlined jacket given that this is a summer suit?
Yes it is. I’d normally go for an unlined one in summer, yes, but I was concerned about this linen catching and wrinkling too much, as it’s lighter than what I’d normally have, so I had it lined
Hi Simon,
Looking to make a suit up in a similar weight linen currently and curious about how you now feel about the lining. I’m tempted to go unlined myself but curious if a year on you’d do unlined or lined next time?
This , to my eyes, is the finest suit you have on PS.
Thank you Chris.
I’d still go lined. The linen is just so light that I think it really benefits from it. I’d only go half lined on something heavier or stiffer, Irish 11oz
Also, given I’m in the UK I’m unlikely to be wearing it in temperatures much above 25 degrees
Thankyou Simon, a final question on this too if you don’t mind- I am curious , do you get (or could you get) any wear from this jacket as a separate? It is extremely beautiful, but I was curious if it’s Englishness (for want of a better word) would prevent its abstraction from the trousers.
I think it could, but only in fairly narrow circumstances. For example with a smart white shirt, and sharp cream or charcoal trousers
Shoes look like EG Greenwich not the Belgravias from the image
You’re right, thanks for the correction, I’ll update it now
I definitely like the look of the black tie,black shoes and especially the colour matching socks. Very “old school”,very understated,..very sophisticated.
Simon, this suit looks fantastic! I must say I’m pleasantly surprised that a row tailor could make something as interesting and sophisticated as this suit so, kudos to Mr. Taub. How would you compare the cut to your Ciardi, my favorite Italian tailor, suits, particularly the shoulder?
I’d say the Ciardi cut is pretty different to be honest, including the shoulder. In brief the Ciardi has:
– A wider shoulder
– No padding at the end of the shoulder to lift it up
– More drape
– A looser cut overall
– A curvier line to the front edge and the cut in general
Thanks! Did you request that padding at the end of the shoulder or was that Mr. Taub’s suggestion? May I assume that the padding could be left out upon request? I almost like this jacket on you better than the Anderson&Sheppard coat in style series. How do you compare the two?
It was Davide’s suggestion, and I’m not sure he’d want to leave it off unless someone had quite square shoulders, but best to talk to him about it.
Anderson & Sheppard is very different, almost as different as you can get among English tailors. In particular:
– Wider shoulder
– Consistent, thin pad
– Far more drape
– Bigger sleeve
– Bigger opening of the forepart
Probably the nicest sleeve head within the style breakdown series.
Except the buttoning point, it resembles your Camps suit doesn’t it?
Thanks, though this isn’t the Style Breakdown series, this is a standard review… I’ll do a fuller piece on the proportions and all measurements at some other point in the future.
The lapel shape is rather different from the Camps, and there’s less padding so the shoulders are more sloping. But otherwise not far off
That’s a beautiful suit, Simon! I saw the three of you shooting these images outside the main hall at Pitti last month. I should have looked closer at the suit you were wearing! It’s a home run. I think it illustrates the differences in our outlook on these things that I don’t think it is (or would be) risky at all. The color looks versatile and would easily transition into evening. Congratulations!
In addition, I received my copy of your latest book about a week ago. Excellent reference work, I’m enjoying dipping into it. Thumbs up!
Thank you Andy, that’s very kind.
Compared to the beautifully cut suit and very elegant overall outfit this is a small point – as your hat band appears black, black shoes, black tie how are you with the gold watch with the tan strap? Given it’s quite a brightly toned one it is completely contrasting with the rest of the outfit though I’m not being judgemental on this as no doubt my understanding of these style points is limited.
Good point. The hatband is actually navy, but dark enough that you wouldn’t notice a difference from black really.
On the watch strap, I quite like this bright tan with formal outfits like this one – to me, it looks a lot better than a mid- or dark brown, which would look like it was failing to match with everything else. The pale tan looks more deliberate by comparison, if that makes sense.
But you’re right, a black or very dark strap, or indeed metal, would be safer.
Definitely one of the nicest suits I have seen on this site, but that label is HUGE. It looks even bigger than the ones you’d find on a Barbour jacket.
Nice and interesting garment!
Simon,
This is a very nice suit and I absolutely love the colour.
For what it’s worth I think you are wrong on the buttoning point – I actually think it is perfect and great for your profile. The one slight criticism I would have is the trousers are a smidgen too narrow but it is very marginal.
Regarding the overall outfit, I think the shirt and tie are great but I don’t like the black shoes. Personally I’d have gone for dark brown either in leather or suede.
One thing I’d like to see you do systematicly with suits in casual fabrics is to create a look without a tie. It’s a challenge because it’s more creative than just sourcing the correct shirt and tie but it is much more relevant.
Bravo to Mr.Taub for creating this beautiful suit.
Oh, by the way, what weight is the linen ?
Regards,
Jason
The linen is 250g, details on the previous post on the fitting.
The problem with suits without a tie, Jason, is that I just don’t like them most of the time. I nearly always prefer a jacket and trouser. Particularly with a structured suit like this
Now, that’s a lovely suit, congratulations! I am just a bit curious as you have advocated heavier 11 oz Irish linens most of the time when linen garments were discussed. This is however just about 9 oz if I am not mistaken. Would you still recommend that cloth for an odd trouser/ smart shorts?
I wouldn’t, no. As mentioned on the previous post on the fitting, I only went with this lighter weight because the colour was only available in it
Really beautiful, Simon. Particularly fond of the colour. However, aren’t you afraid that the narrower trousers might make it crease more, and perhaps create some bagging around the knee? Especially since it’s a rather lightweight linen.
It certainly creases, but much more than what you can see. And linen doesn’t tend to bag much so I’m not too worried there – certainly a lot less than cotton
Hi Simon, I have to say that I love this suit – cut, fabric and colour! Mr Taub is producing some really great work at the moment – his Instagram page is worth a visit as it reveals more of his style. Do you think that the dark green colour will extend the use of this suit into balmy May and warm September days, when a cream, beige or even tobacco linen might look out of place?
Yes good point, the green colour might work much better in that regard
Different yet understated and elegant, a real triumph!
It’s an interesting commission and the green works well on you. I raise a small point: you have worked with Davide Taub and commissioned from Gieves on a number of occasions (always with excellent results) I ask why, instead of playing safe, you didn’t commission from other, as yet untried, houses. It’s accepted, to a degree, that PS is one person’s journey but, commercially for the readership, part of this journey is to explore the range of bespoke offerings available. If PS were to be criticised on any substantive basis it would be on the lack of exploration and discovery within the UK. In fairness you have experimented with around 10 of the 18 SR Bespoke members (GH, Chittleborough, Dege, A&S, Poole, Huntsman, Richard Anderson, Richard James, K Sargent, E Sexton) and a number of ‘orbiting’ houses (Kent, W&S, Hitchcock, Herbert, Brown, Hemingway…). However, PS is now a decade old yet its ‘experience’ remains fairly set within the UK: now that PS is full time, and a more informative force than any other online bespoke source, is it time to widen this approach to other SR houses and those outside?
Thanks. I do try to combine the old and the new where I can – but often where I feel where I feel they offer something substantially different. So Michael Browne is doing great things on his own which are rather different, and I would try him. Also I would try a couple of the Japanese ex-pats, such as Suzuki in Paris. But I don’t think it broadens things much just to cover other English tailors cutting in the same traditions, and even using the same coatmakers. Does that make sense?
Do suggest some if you think there are genuinely interesting ones I haven’t covered so far.
Very bold fiber choice to go with the rather formal cut and stylings. Quite a somber color as well. Certainly a commission that sets you apart.
When are we going to see you in a getup like that on your photographer friend?
Only on holiday…
Simon, You said, “It’s a very strong correlation, but it’s definitely there.”
You mean it’s NOT a strong correlation?
Yes, thanks for the correction, I’ll update the post now
And who made the hat–it’s striking.
It’s from Anderson & Sheppard
Very nice look Simon!
What’s your thought of having an odd jacket or odd trousers using this cloth?
I might do a jacket, but not trousers. The jacket would be quite formal too – so not that versatile, in the same way the suit isn’t
Simon, beautifully cut and very well proportioned! The shade of green looks great. Other than a muted olive, I would never have thought to get much use from a green suit. Do you plan on wearing it as separates? I would have expected that for this style of suit you would have used one of your Italian tailors, but Davide’s cutting is absolutely spot on…modern, elegant and timeless.
Thanks Brett. No, I don’t expect to use it as separates. And you’re right, a Neapolitan would be a more natural choice, and would perhaps have made it more versatile – but I was interested in how sharp and formal Davide could.make a cloth like this
Great suit, amazing to see how a skilled and experienced cutter such as David can achieve such comfort, without losing the structural essence of British Tailoring. Simon, to you think this suit proves a point to the discussion about comparing semi bespoke brand such as Prologue and Anthology to real bespoke tailors? I mean it shows that real tailors deliver a better service and quality than the “semi bespoke”?
Thanks in advance
I couldn’t really compare it to Anthology yet, having not finished a suit with them, but I do think there’s something in fit and finish that a great bespoke tailor has over semi-bespoke like Prologue, yes. Unfortunately, there’s also a lot of full bespoke that falls short of this, often from newer Italian tailors
Absolutely beautiful suit and very nicely styled Simon.
Out of curiosity, how would you say the construction and fit of this suit compare to Cifonelli? I love both styles and have been a customer of Cifonelli for a couple of years now, but this suit makes me want to commission something from Taub. Thank you.
I think Cifonelli is a good comparison actually, there are many things in common. The biggest difference I’d say is that Lorenzo likes to fit things more tightly
This is great – Simon, I have been reading your website and you have certainly inspired me into saving up for a bespoke. Good fit and excellent article.
While I would prefer a lower buttoning point, I think that this one still looks good on you. I’ve discovered that on myself a buttoning point where I naturally feel it should be looks too low because my legs are slightly short in comparison to my torso. But as you’re taller than I am you have a lot of freedom to place the buttoning point where you want it because you don’t have to worry about it shortening either your torso or legs too much. This cut looks perfect on you despite a slightly high buttoning point. Some of the other suits you have with a high buttoning point don’t look as good as this one, even if they have just as good a fit.
Wow. One of the best ever, I think.
Who cares about the suit?
It’s the hat. It all about the hat!
In fact I am of the opinion that one great accessory, can set the tone of your “look” regardless of what else you have on…
I have a hat I bought in Guadalajara last year for $3 that receives complements every-time I wear it. (even over a $300 Panama I have argh!)..I have a magnificent pair of crystal frame Japanese made eyeglasses from a Los Angeles designer, that also receives complements from random people….
Simon, keep it up, the hats you have featured the last few months look great.
This is as always an excellent review of an extraordinary suit. It looks great regarding to its making and fit.
As a linen suit is will be worn mainly during summer or in hot and perhaps humid climate. As it looks, the suit is lined like any suit, Not halflined like e. g. some Italian suits. Doesn’t a full lining contradict the breathability of the linen or did Gieves and Hawkes use a special lining fabric ?
See comment above Daniel – it is fully lined, because I was worried about the sharpness and of creasing in such a lightweight linen
What a suit, Simon! Lovely cloth in an interesting colour.
I notice that the quarters are fairly square, and closed. Is this a house style, or rather a Savile Row / British style? I’ve seen many Italian houses cut their jackets with very rounded and open quarters these days.
Would you say that the style of the quarters is only a style choice, or are there practical or formality considerations in the way you make them?
Quarters like this are largely a Savile Row style, yes, where the Europeans are more.open, the Neapolitans most open of all. You can see a comparison in our Style Breakdown series (the guide to tailor styles, under Guides in the menu)
More closed quarters are a little more formal, and often expose less shirt underneath and can be more flattering in that regard. But these are small things – it’s largely style
I don’t see many occasions where this suit could be worn given its non-traditional color palette. Also too dark for warmer, sunny weather which I guess you had it made for.
Interesting experiment, yes. Something to wear often, no.
Hi Simon, on the question of non-London bespoke, whist they may (or may not) be substantially different from London houses, for those of us who live in the north reviews from you would be useful. May I suggest, to start, Steed, Des Merrion, Redmayne, John E Monk?
Just my opinion – but the trousers are too slim.
Hi Simon, slightly random question, but what is your opinion of Suit Supply? The gray-haired bloke on Parisian Gentleman just gave them a very positive write-up. Apparently their MTM is fully canvassed and well-priced. Any insight would be gratefully received.
I haven’t tried them myself, but I know a lot of people that have. They are, essentially, good value for money but a little unpredictable. The suits are cheap, usually deliver reliably, but the accuracy of the fit can be very dependent on the salesperson you deal with (a regular problem with MTM, particularly in a large company). They also tend to the contemporary – so cutting jackets short and tight, and trousers narrow.
A+ (excellent) to the ensemble without the panama hat.
A++ (outstanding) to the ensemble with the panama hat.
Hi Simon, what impact – not just in this case but as a general rule – does raising the button point have on the overall silhouette?
It affects several things. It makes your upper body look shorter, but also perhaps a little wider. It can mean your waist looks smaller. It emphasises the bottom half of the jacket, flowing down over the hips. Most importantly, from the front it shortens the space for your shirt and tie
Simon,
Care you comment on the weight of the linen? 250g seems pretty darn light. How do you feel about the weight of the fabric? How has it reacted to wear so far?
I’ve noted comments about the weight in this post and the fitting one, just in case you have missed those.
It is light, and I’d normally go for heavier but wanted this particular colour. It’s actually worn nicely so far, without wrinkling too much. Part of that, I think, is down to the sharp cut and structured (even with a light canvas) that Davide has given it
Thank you for the response. I saw those comments, however, I was wondering if anything had changed after some wear. I am considering ordering this suit from my tailor (Despos), who cuts a sharp suit. This would be a great cloth to get a wear report on.
If I order, I’ll similarly get the suit lined, which would help a lot I imagine.
Ah I see. No, the only thing to report having worn the linen is that it hasn’t wrinkled as much as I feared
So I looked at the title shot at the top of the page and thought “what a lovely blue suit”.
It wasn’t until I read the text that I realised it was green. I literally had to do a double take.
Isn’t it funny how the mind plays tricks?
Nice suit indeed.
I have a question about the lapel roll. It looks like it’s a bit more “pressed” if I may say so than on a wool bespoke jacket. I guess this is due to the material being linen, and the light canvas, is that correct?
A little, as it’s not as thick. But you could also press this with more roll if you wanted to
Hi Simon,
I have few bad experience in Linen, generally it fades and shrink badly after first wash, Especially in dark colors. Do you have the same problem? and how do you manage it?
No I haven’t had that problem. I assume you’re using good quality linen from a mill or merchant you know? And you’re dry cleaning the tailoring, not washing it?
Congratulations for this suit Simon — which I personally find one of the most interesting and elegant among your suits — and thank you for taking bespoke risks like this: such risks, I believe, are those that expand tailoring culture, and that is no small feat.
Fantastic suit, quite interesting and something I wouldn’t have thought of. Thank you for continuing with your experiments (if that’s the appropriate word). It certainly provides us with inspiration when thinking about what we would like to have ourselves.
I’m surprised about how light the linen is given how little creased it seems. I actually thought it was quite heavy until I reached that point in the article. It made me think if a heavy dark linen suit would ever be appropriate in autumm or even winter. Or is linen just too associated with warmer weather regardless of colour and how heavy it is?
Good question. I think linen would look a little odd in cold weather to be honest. I’d be tempted by heavy cotton for something similar though?
It’s a great job in a very challenging cloth Simon but yes as you say the top button is high
Hi Simon. I absolutely love the cloth you picked for this suit, and would be keen to create something similar for myself. I am however a total novice when it comes to bespoke, and unfortunately I’m also not going to be able to afford it at the pricepoint yours came in at with Gieves. Could you (or any readers) tell me what the least expensive way of producing a suit using this cloth would be? Whether that’s through using a different tailor, going for M2M instead of bespoke (may not even be possible here), or some other method? Thanks.
Hi Sam,
Sure, I’m sure I and others can help.
First off, Scabal is not cheap cloth, but you should be able to get it from almost any tailor – MTM or bespoke. So you’re not limited there.
The least expensive would be using a high-street MTM company, such as Suit Supply. A step up would be high-end MTM, such as Saman Amel or Anglo-Italian perhaps. And then above that is bespoke – started at more like £2000 from someone that makes overseas, like Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, all the way up to Gieves.
I hope that’s a good starting point.
Simon
Thanks, yes very helpful. I have a slender build (36-38 chest) and would be wanting a ‘modern’ fit. Would anyone spring to mind to rival Suitsupply MTM, at their level of the market?
Lastly, I know you’ve said the suit held up relatively well in terms of creasing… Is that still the case a few months on? I’d be looking to wear it at a wedding so am conscious of it losing shape throughout the day. Thanks again.
Yes, I’d still say that
Good afternoon Mr Crompton. I am about asking my tailor to make me a linen suit. It will be made from the scratch but will be machine-sewn. Will it still be a bespoke suit even it will not be hand sewn? And one final question, is it appropriate to wear linen shirts with linen suits even if colours make contrast? Thank you very much.
Hi Juan,
Bespoke is not a cleanly defined term. Personally I would say no, you’re suit is not bespoke – or at least not traditional bespoke. That would require a personal fit and pattern, with multiple fittings, plus a handmade chest and other aspects.
But what you would have – you could call it semi-bespoke – could still be very good if you just have the fit aspect.
And yes, a linen shirt can be alright with a linen suit. But better if you’re wearing a tie as well, so the whole thing is not just linen.
I think the products from Gieves & Hawkes that I have seen on your website perhaps are the most flattering to your body, at least according to me. I like the more slimmer silhouette compared to other suits like A&S, Bn tailor, Liverano Liverano. I also like the more structured shoulders as well compared to the Italian trend nowadays when everyone have no structuring at all. I think you body fits very well with more structured shoulders.
I have myself bought a lot of jacket and suits with soft shoulders and tried so hard to be a sprezzatura guy for the last 5-6 years….ending up finally be true to myself and now buy stuff thats really are me and are stuff that I really like, and that is slimmer pants, normal waist (not crazy high) and structured shoulders.
I have only bought mtm so far from different stores around Stockholm, Sweden, but I will in the future saving up for a Savile row suit. Taking in mind what I have written above, do you think gieves & hawkes will be a good choice for me or do you have any other tip?
thanks
Stefan
I think almost any English tailor would fit that kind of description Stefan. Have a look at what I’ve done on Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole, Huntsman etc
Lovely suit and article Simon, thank you for sharing it.
I am considering an 8oz Navy Scabal Made to Measure single breasted 2 piece suit by Mason and Sons for weddings in Spain and Italy next summer. One invitation is as a best man (dress code is navy trousers with or without a jacket and a white shirt), the other invitation as a guest. Would you recommend linen firstly over something like an 8oz super 110s or 6oz super 150s in worsted wool, and Scabal secondly over the same weight or heavier Irish or Italian linen for these occasions?
Many thanks in advance and best wishes
On linen v wool, it’s a style thing largely. But also, the wool would be more useful for wear after the wedding, while the linen would look more interesting at the wedding itself.
On weight, if it’s Italy in the summer then yes I might go for a lightweight Scabal one
Amazing colour. Could such a color work in an odd jacket with a different fabric, maybe wool/silk/linen mix?
How would you describe that colour to a tailor when searching a similar colour in a different fabric?
Yes, I think it could do. Though being unusual, it might be a little restrictive.
I’d describe it as a very dark, olive green.
What trouser colours other than the always combinable cream would you combine with such a jacket?
Not much, it’s not an easy colour. Maybe a mid-grey
Hi Simon,
What colour are the socks you are wearing? are they from Breciani?
Thanks
Rupesh
Dark green, and yes
How would you describe the roped shoulders? Still moderate roping or is it already strong roping?
Does the amount of roping matter for the suitability of a suit for business or is it just personal preference how much roping one likes?
I’d say moderate.
At the extremes, roping or lack of it makes a different – from a Chittleborough to a Neapolitan shirring waterfall. But most in the middle, like this, make little difference.
It looks like the width of the roping is wider than „normal“. Is it similar to Cifonelli‘s roping?
I wouldn’t say it’s quite as much Cifonelli’s, no.
Does it have some drape in the chest?
A little, but not much
How does the suit compare to your Henry Poole and Dege & Skinner?
Would you say it is a classic savile row suit with a modern touch?
Yes. Still classic, but with some modern awareness. I’d say it was better in terms of overall fit and make too
Do you by any chance know where Jamie got his hat?
Yes – Sublime, from No Man Walks Alone
https://nomanwalksalone.com/accessories/hats.html
Thanks!
Hello Simon. Love the cotton/linen striped shirt. What fabric supplier do you usually use for linen or cotton/linen shirting? Thanks!
I use a whole range – the quality doesn’t vary that much, so you should largely pick on pattern etc. Albini (Thomas Mason), Canclini, Alumo etc
Hello Simon, I am a huge fan of this suit and have been considering something similar (with double breasted waist coat) for my autumn wedding in the southern US.
I recognize this is a very personal decision but curious your general thoughts…would this fabric and color be formal enough or is it too casual?
For context: our wedding ceremony is outdoors, cocktail dress, and starts around 4p (thus the reception/celebration will go into the evening). My goals are something elegant, unique (while still somewhat traditional), and versatile enough I can where to future events.
Thanks for any thoughts and of course for the wealth of knowledge you provide. Your site is invaluable!
Justin
Thanks Justin.
I think a suit like this, particularly with a DB waistcoat, would be unusual certainly. But I’d worry it was not that formal, and so unusual that you wouldn’t want to wear it that often to other events – it would always be ‘that suit’.
A better idea, I think would be a mid- to light-grey suit. The DB waistcoat would still make it interesting, but it would be classic, and you could add more character with the accessories. But it would be a suit you’d wear more into the future.
There is a lot on weddings in our website section here.
Thanks
Thanks for the thoughtful and helpful reply, Simon.
Simon, this a beautiful suit. Davide is truly an artist. I share your opinion about the buttoning point though, and I generally like a lower point for myself. I’m considering commissioning a suit soon from a strong-shouldered style Row tailor. Gieves and also Huntsman are at the top of my list, but I want to make sure I get the lower stance I like, as I know many houses favor a bit higher more modern buttoning point these days. Wondering if you had any recommendations for tailors who do a lower buttoning point? Would Davide or Huntsman be agreeable to it, or is it not their preference in your experience?
I wouldn’t worry, they’d both be agreeable to that Tom, particularly Davide – he’s very creative
How did that suit work out for you? I’ve recently got myself a dark green cord jacket. It’s a bit odd in that it’s dark enough to pass for black in some cases, much like the suit you described. I’m curious whether you wore it a lot, or just gave it away some time ago?
I still have it and wear it, it’s lovely and Davide is a master. Really top notch bespoke.
But it is an unusual colour. It sounds like yours might be better with colours like grey, white, black and cream – neutrals – and similarly dark colours like navy, dark purple etc.
Perhaps also dressed a bit smarter than you normally would with cord.
It’s good for eveningwear, or at least the casual approximation of it. Black knit would be nice, if I had one. Denim isn’t a bad choice either, but probably not chinos. Especially not the olive ones. But who knows, perhaps I’ll go for tonal green one day?
Not sure this is the best thread to post this, but here it goes. I have been looking for a fabric for a navy linen suit. I wear a neapolitan style. When it comes to irish linen, most of the italian cloth merchants/producers (caccipoli, drapers, vitale) only offer fairly light shades of navy. I was looking for a darker true navy (or maybe closer to a midnight blue) for a more formal suit. Any suggestions of a darker navy irish linen cloth that you would recommend? scabal, wbill or others?
Not off the top of my head, no, but if you can’t find it in bunches like W Bill, Holland & Sherry or others than stock Irish linens, try Ulster Weavers or Baird McNutt, which are the mills they buy from (not everyone has their bunches though, and Baird doesn’t do much in stock)