Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming week...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming week...

Black tie - JacketsSeptember 20th 2017

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Last month, we organised a dinner at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel to celebrate The Style Guide - the book published earlier this year by myself and photographer Jamie Ferguson. There had been official launch events, an...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Last month, we organised a dinner at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel to celebrate The Style Guide - the book published earlier this year by myself and photographer Jamie Ferguson. There had been official launch events, an...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

November 18th 2016

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of ea...

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of ea...

TailoringNovember 18th 2016

The tailors I have known

August 30th 2016

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...

The tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...

TailorsAugust 30th 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

June 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

TailoringJune 21st 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on the ...

June 20th 2016

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we ...

The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on the ...

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we ...

TailoringJune 20th 2016

Young tailors take over Instagram!

May 30th 2016

This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account. Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pi...

Young tailors take over Instagram!

This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account. Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pi...

May 30th 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo

May 17th 2016

Every Pitti Uomo for the past two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world. For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: be...

The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo

Every Pitti Uomo for the past two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world. For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: be...

May 17th 2016

Final bespoke gilet, Davide Taub at Gieves & H...

March 28th 2016

Last August I began this project with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, to create a bespoke gilet that could be buttoned into a variety of jackets. I think it’s fair to say the project has been l...

Final bespoke gilet, Davide Taub at Gieves & H...

Last August I began this project with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, to create a bespoke gilet that could be buttoned into a variety of jackets. I think it’s fair to say the project has been l...

Casual wearMarch 28th 2016

BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie

February 18th 2016

One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear. Although most cutters and tailors aren’t actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing somet...

BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie

One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear. Although most cutters and tailors aren’t actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing somet...

Black tie - StyleFebruary 18th 2016

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

December 2nd 2015

A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favou...

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favou...

December 2nd 2015

The casual waistcoat: preppy herringbone

October 5th 2015

Over the years I’ve had a few casual waistcoats made. What makes them casual? Well primarily cloth, ideally something with a pronounced texture and perhaps a chunky pattern – in this case, a tan/black herr...

The casual waistcoat: preppy herringbone

Over the years I’ve had a few casual waistcoats made. What makes them casual? Well primarily cloth, ideally something with a pronounced texture and perhaps a chunky pattern – in this case, a tan/black herr...

TailoringOctober 5th 2015

How great things age: Bespoke leather jacket

September 28th 2015

The ‘ How Great Things Age‘ series celebrates and examines how quality menswear ages over time. Often, it becomes more beautiful, though different materials from leather to cotton to board age in very diff...

How great things age: Bespoke leather jacket

The ‘ How Great Things Age‘ series celebrates and examines how quality menswear ages over time. Often, it becomes more beautiful, though different materials from leather to cotton to board age in very diff...

September 28th 2015

London: A sartorial city guide

August 12th 2015

I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave t...

London: A sartorial city guide

I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave t...

August 12th 2015

Change your laces

May 25th 2015

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast i...

Change your laces

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast i...

Derby - OxfordMay 25th 2015

Savile Row’s driving jackets for Bentley

May 18th 2015

  Bespoke driving jackets designed by Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman. Which is your favourite? ( Worth expanding to full screen)...

Savile Row’s driving jackets for Bentley

  Bespoke driving jackets designed by Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman. Which is your favourite? ( Worth expanding to full screen)...

Jackets - TailoringMay 18th 2015

The subtlety of a suede jacket

March 25th 2015

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and gre...

The subtlety of a suede jacket

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and gre...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 25th 2015

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on bes...

January 7th 2015

Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in. He was right also to sa...

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on bes...

Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in. He was right also to sa...

Accessories - Casual wearJanuary 7th 2015

The bespoke pea coat – Part 5

December 8th 2014

A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn’t the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable s...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 5

A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn’t the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable s...

OvercoatsDecember 8th 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 4

December 1st 2014

Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get ...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 4

Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get ...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 1st 2014

How to dress for winter

November 12th 2014

I’m so excited the weather in London has finally turned cold. Summer clothing is great, but there’s just so much more of it in winter: hats, scarves, gloves, overcoats, plus heavy-gauge knitwear and serious...

How to dress for winter

I’m so excited the weather in London has finally turned cold. Summer clothing is great, but there’s just so much more of it in winter: hats, scarves, gloves, overcoats, plus heavy-gauge knitwear and serious...

Accessories - GlovesNovember 12th 2014

The Invention of the English Gentleman

October 29th 2014

Earlier this year I helped write the Gieves & Hawkes book, One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman, contributing the bespoke chapter. It came out a couple of weeks ago, and I highly recommend it &nda...

The Invention of the English Gentleman

Earlier this year I helped write the Gieves & Hawkes book, One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman, contributing the bespoke chapter. It came out a couple of weeks ago, and I highly recommend it &nda...

October 29th 2014

Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

September 26th 2014

Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioin...

Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioin...

Fit - TailoringSeptember 26th 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 3

July 24th 2014

The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 3

The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs...

OvercoatsJuly 24th 2014

Savile Row, parties and branding

July 21st 2014

Last month there were three parties on Savile Row on the same night. Huntsman, Kilgour and Anderson & Sheppard all held events on the Monday of London Collections:Men, with very different atmospheres. While they sh...

Savile Row, parties and branding

Last month there were three parties on Savile Row on the same night. Huntsman, Kilgour and Anderson & Sheppard all held events on the Monday of London Collections:Men, with very different atmospheres. While they sh...

July 21st 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 2

December 27th 2013

The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how ...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 2

The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how ...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 27th 2013

Green is the third colour

November 25th 2013

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey o...

Green is the third colour

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey o...

Casual wear - StyleNovember 25th 2013

The bespoke pea coat – Part 1

November 6th 2013

A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August. This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 1

A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August. This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 6th 2013

Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars

November 4th 2013

[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at l.a.shirtmaker@gmail.com] One of the n...

Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars

[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at l.a.shirtmaker@gmail.com] One of the n...

Shirts and tiesNovember 4th 2013

A tailor’s prayer

October 3rd 2013

GBWU: God be with us. A little note that Lee at Gieves & Hawkes customarily scribbles on patterns for particularly difficult figurations. It is a habit, a superstition: written with a smile and long since deprived o...

A tailor’s prayer

GBWU: God be with us. A little note that Lee at Gieves & Hawkes customarily scribbles on patterns for particularly difficult figurations. It is a habit, a superstition: written with a smile and long since deprived o...

TailorsOctober 3rd 2013

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&G

September 23rd 2013

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of ...

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&G

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of ...

StyleSeptember 23rd 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6

August 28th 2013

Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details. There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a rela...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6

Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details. There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a rela...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 28th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 5

August 26th 2013

The finished leather jacket. This bespoke project from Gieves & Hawkes has progressed quite quickly compared to tailoring, but it still feels like an age since Davide and I first conceived of the idea. Most of all, ...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 5

The finished leather jacket. This bespoke project from Gieves & Hawkes has progressed quite quickly compared to tailoring, but it still feels like an age since Davide and I first conceived of the idea. Most of all, ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 26th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 4

August 19th 2013

The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. ...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 4

The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 19th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 3

August 7th 2013

This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece o...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 3

This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece o...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 7th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2

July 19th 2013

This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide h...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2

This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide h...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJuly 19th 2013

Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival

July 15th 2013

This past weekend saw the Coronation Festival in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, at which holders of royal warrants exhibited. The royal warrant is not exactly the mark of quality that some might assume, given that it...

Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival

This past weekend saw the Coronation Festival in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, at which holders of royal warrants exhibited. The royal warrant is not exactly the mark of quality that some might assume, given that it...

July 15th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

July 11th 2013

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJuly 11th 2013

The BTBA summer party

July 8th 2013

Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins. ...

The BTBA summer party

Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins. ...

TailoringJuly 8th 2013

Shoulder pads at Gieves, old silk books and worsted...

May 31st 2013

One of Italy’s oldest books on silk work In the past two weeks on The Rake we’ve had pieces looking at the way Davide Taube and his fellow cutters are ripping down their shoulder pads at Gieves, and a step-b...

Shoulder pads at Gieves, old silk books and worsted...

One of Italy’s oldest books on silk work In the past two weeks on The Rake we’ve had pieces looking at the way Davide Taube and his fellow cutters are ripping down their shoulder pads at Gieves, and a step-b...

TailoringMay 31st 2013

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke

April 26th 2013

Gieves & Hawkes has always had a good bespoke operation, and surprisingly large on site, but it gets relatively little press. A definite bonus has been Davide Taub, who joined from Maurice Sedwell recently to become...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke

Gieves & Hawkes has always had a good bespoke operation, and surprisingly large on site, but it gets relatively little press. A definite bonus has been Davide Taub, who joined from Maurice Sedwell recently to become...

TailorsApril 26th 2013

How to buy a suit

February 12th 2013

Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is a shortcut, a sanction. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and...

How to buy a suit

Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is a shortcut, a sanction. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and...

How to - SuitsFebruary 12th 2013

Latest piece on How to Spend It

February 11th 2013

We have decided to give greater structure to my How to Spend It column, making it a practical analysis of how to buy various items in a men’s wardrobe. The first one, on suits, is now live. Read it here....

Latest piece on How to Spend It

We have decided to give greater structure to my How to Spend It column, making it a practical analysis of how to buy various items in a men’s wardrobe. The first one, on suits, is now live. Read it here....

TailoringFebruary 11th 2013

Davide Taub: Style and the tailor

December 5th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 789 4502 Euromoney PLC 37 9 5528 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw ...

Davide Taub: Style and the tailor

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 789 4502 Euromoney PLC 37 9 5528 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw ...

Casual wearDecember 5th 2012

Davide Taub joins Gieves & Hawkes

February 22nd 2012

Davide Taub left Maurice Sedwell a few weeks ago to become senior cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. He replaces Kathryn Sargent, who left at the beginning of the year to set up on her own with a board over at Meyer & ...

Davide Taub joins Gieves & Hawkes

Davide Taub left Maurice Sedwell a few weeks ago to become senior cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. He replaces Kathryn Sargent, who left at the beginning of the year to set up on her own with a board over at Meyer & ...

TailorsFebruary 22nd 2012

Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 4

January 2nd 2012

The Gieves travel blazer is finished and has turned out wonderfully well. First the fit, for that is the most important thing after all. After three fittings everything on the jacket is perfect, from the shape through th...

Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 4

The Gieves travel blazer is finished and has turned out wonderfully well. First the fit, for that is the most important thing after all. After three fittings everything on the jacket is perfect, from the shape through th...

TailorsJanuary 2nd 2012

Carreducker at Gieves on St Crispin’s Day

October 31st 2011

As requested, some shots of Deborah Carre making shoes in the window of Gieves & Hawkes last week, to celebrate St Crispin’s Day. Brave gal, putting herself on display like that!...

Carreducker at Gieves on St Crispin’s Day

As requested, some shots of Deborah Carre making shoes in the window of Gieves & Hawkes last week, to celebrate St Crispin’s Day. Brave gal, putting herself on display like that!...

ShoesOctober 31st 2011

Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 3

October 24th 2011

Last week we had the second fitting on the Gieves & Hawkes travel blazer. Given that I’m a new customer and so we are creating a new pattern, both were basted fittings and the first looked much like this one, ...

Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 3

Last week we had the second fitting on the Gieves & Hawkes travel blazer. Given that I’m a new customer and so we are creating a new pattern, both were basted fittings and the first looked much like this one, ...

TailorsOctober 24th 2011

Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 2

October 7th 2011

The most interesting aspect of watching the cutting for the Perfect Travel Blazer this week was, oddly, not the blazer but the trousers we are making to go with it. These are in a mid-grey, 9/10 ounce fresco from J&...

Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 2

The most interesting aspect of watching the cutting for the Perfect Travel Blazer this week was, oddly, not the blazer but the trousers we are making to go with it. These are in a mid-grey, 9/10 ounce fresco from J&...

TailorsOctober 7th 2011

EB Meyrowitz: Handmade glasses

October 5th 2011

EB Meyrowitz always used to sparkle from across the Royal Arcade, as I sat in Cleverley’s chatting to George or Teemu. The serried rows of horn and acetate frames, all in beautiful brown variations, watched by a li...

EB Meyrowitz: Handmade glasses

EB Meyrowitz always used to sparkle from across the Royal Arcade, as I sat in Cleverley’s chatting to George or Teemu. The serried rows of horn and acetate frames, all in beautiful brown variations, watched by a li...

Accessories - GlassesOctober 5th 2011