The low double-breasted jacket: Its history and h...
By Aleks Cvetkovic The low double-breasted jacket is arguably one of the most romantic expressions of tailoring. There’s something about the proportions, the poise and its cinematic past that combine to make it unique. It’s also a silho...
The low double-breasted jacket: Its history and h...
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Understood. I think you might find this similar in use to a hopsack to be honest, but it would be a touch different...
Can I wear a linen jacket with linen trousers?
Linen jacket with linen trousers We used to write a ‘ reader question ' article every time someone had an inquiry here on PS. These days, questions are answered many times in the comments, and it takes something special to get a dedicated arti...
Can I wear a linen jacket with linen trousers?
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Yes I know what you mean. A linen overshirt like ours can work well - see here as an example. If you want something more casual then a jungle jacket can be good. Also, other inspiration in our recent casual summer jacket...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known
This article has been updated every four years for the past 12 years. It was originally written in 2012, and has had new versions in 2016, 2020 and now 2024. The number of bespoke tailors we have tried and covered has increased, but the growth peake...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known
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Thank you for the suggestion, if I can I'd love to. One thing is that it tends to make sense to wait a couple of years or more before covering a new tailor, as many change in that time...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
*NOTE: This article has now largely been superseded by the 2025 piece ' Who are my favourite made to measure tailors?' Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good r...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Hi Martins, Many thanks for your comments here!...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades. Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters. Kathryn Sa...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
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Hey there, I would look at the bunches of W Bill, Brisbane Moss, Holland & Sherry and any other British mill that offers Irish linen. If you can't find a dark enough navy there, try and find someone that can source from ...
Video: How much can you alter a suit?
One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more places, than anything made in a fa...
Video: How much can you alter a suit?
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I don't think that's likely to happen, but if you are concerned about it I would just mention it to the tailor. Not an easy thing to do but worth it if you're worried at all!...
Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review
This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it l...
Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review
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I enjoy wearing it still Aaron, but it's more of an exceptional suit rather than an every day one, and not the easiest to break up either...
Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieve...
Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it felt more immediate and person...
Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieve...
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Thank you for your thoughts on this, Simon and I agree. Now on to find a nice trouser to pair it with as an alternative....
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve already bought...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
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Yes good point, I think that was more a case of how I came to feel about the PWVC cut over time, rather than changing my tastes. But yes shetlands I definitely wear less. Apart from those two I wear Colhay's, Bryceland's...
How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke...
This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat , how it has held up and – more specifically &am...
How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke...
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The best place will be the original tailor, if known. Otherwise I'd take it to somewhere like The Valet...
High/low dressing
The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...
High/low dressing
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A little more fussy, but not much. For me, these work best when they're more like an overshirt - a little bigger and a little longer, worn over a vest or T-shirt. It's a jacket or cardigan substitute, not a shirt one...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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For a cream linen suit? No, not at all. Jacket or trousers, yes, but the suit should not be regarded as a staple. For DBs, absolutely...
The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the...
Last month, we organised a dinner at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel to celebrate The Style Guide - the book published earlier this year by myself and photographer Jamie Ferguson. There had been official launch events, and signings, at Fenwick's of Bo...
The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the...
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Hope you enjoy the little video, changing a bit with humour your dinner for your book. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CD-nn2zpvRN/?igshid=1deds976zz0ra...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was als...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
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Very well done. I think the videos on this site are a nice extra touch. It adds extra value and experience to hear from the personal side of tailoring, which I think is a very wirthwhile side to this industry. Luxury ite...
The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion
Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields befo...
The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion
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It varies, but largely yes...
The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on th...
Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes One of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We...
The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on th...
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Hopefully September, but there's been a delay on production over August...
Young tailors take over Instagram!
This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account. Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pieces they are making and the t...
Young tailors take over Instagram!
This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account. Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pie...
The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo
Every Pitti Uomo for the past two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world. For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: bespoke tailoring. But whereas t...
The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo
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No, it's not really about craft - it's a trade show, where people come to see and buy product. And then there are the peacocks, who are about style (in theory) not craft....
Final bespoke gilet, Davide Taub at Gieves & ...
Last August I began this project with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, to create a bespoke gilet that could be buttoned into a variety of jackets. I think it’s fair to say the project has been largely, but not entirely s...
Final bespoke gilet, Davide Taub at Gieves & ...
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Interesting, thanks Paul...
BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie
One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear. Although most cutters and tailors aren’t actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing something bespoke – s...
BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie
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Depends on the context. A 200 guest gala dinner, no. A 20 guest dinner in a private dining room, yes....
Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London
A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favourite craftsmen in ...
Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London
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I had a chance to meet Eithen this weekend in NYC, where he accompanied Luke and Richard on one of Thom Sweeney's regular visits here. It's exciting to see this still young firm already working so hard to bring in fresh ...
The casual waistcoat: preppy herringbone
Over the years I’ve had a few casual waistcoats made. What makes them casual? Well primarily cloth, ideally something with a pronounced texture and perhaps a chunky pattern – in this case, a tan/black herringbone woven from a w...
The casual waistcoat: preppy herringbone
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Basically, under the jacket collar, you don't also want a waistcoat collar that is just as thick, as this then means a lot of material in one place. A dress waistcoat will often be cut a little lower, or not have a colla...
How great things age: Bespoke leather jacket
The ‘ How Great Things Age‘ series celebrates and examines how quality menswear ages over time. Often, it becomes more beautiful, though different materials from leather to cotton to board age in very different ways. The last ...
How great things age: Bespoke leather jacket
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Great Breakdown...
London: A sartorial city guide
I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave too many out I’ll...
London: A sartorial city guide
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Hi Todd, This list is a little out of date, sorry. I will update it soon. Sadly, London really isn't very good for vintage these days. It's just about worth going to Brick Lane for things like Levison's and House of Vint...
Change your laces
Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. They produc...
Change your laces
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I have tried them and they are good quality, in a niche not many people do anything new in. The only thing I didn't like was those heavier brass aglets on some of the laces. They make themselves too much of a point of fo...
