Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on b...

January 7th 2015

Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in. He was right also to say that this is a defic...

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on b...

Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in. He was right also to say that ...

Denim - Hanks and scarvesJanuary 7th 2015

The bespoke pea coat – Part 5

December 8th 2014

A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn’t the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable sight.) So, the last po...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 5

A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn’t the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable sight.) So...

CoatsDecember 8th 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 4

December 1st 2014

Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get them (such as the Stefano ...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 4

Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get them ...

CoatsDecember 1st 2014

How to dress for winter

November 12th 2014

I’m so excited the weather in London has finally turned cold. Summer clothing is great, but there’s just so much more of it in winter: hats, scarves, gloves, overcoats, plus heavy-gauge knitwear and serious boots. The key to dressing we...

How to dress for winter

I’m so excited the weather in London has finally turned cold. Summer clothing is great, but there’s just so much more of it in winter: hats, scarves, gloves, overcoats, plus heavy-gauge knitwear and serious boots. Th...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesNovember 12th 2014

The Invention of the English Gentleman

October 29th 2014

Earlier this year I helped write the Gieves & Hawkes book, One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman, contributing the bespoke chapter. It came out a couple of weeks ago, and I highly recommend it – not for my small secti...

The Invention of the English Gentleman

Earlier this year I helped write the Gieves & Hawkes book, One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman, contributing the bespoke chapter. It came out a couple of weeks ago, and I highly recommend it – not ...

October 29th 2014

Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

September 26th 2014

Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioining, the fittings, and...

Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioining, the f...

WeddingsSeptember 26th 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 3

July 24th 2014

The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs of lovely Claire (Barrett...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 3

The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs of lo...

CoatsJuly 24th 2014

Savile Row, parties and branding

July 21st 2014

Last month there were three parties on Savile Row on the same night. Huntsman, Kilgour and Anderson & Sheppard all held events on the Monday of London Collections:Men, with very different atmospheres. While they showed very different ideas ...

Savile Row, parties and branding

Last month there were three parties on Savile Row on the same night. Huntsman, Kilgour and Anderson & Sheppard all held events on the Monday of London Collections:Men, with very different atmospheres. While they showed v...

July 21st 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 2

December 27th 2013

The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how much we discuss these thin...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 2

The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how much we...

CoatsDecember 27th 2013

Green is the third colour

November 25th 2013

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or charcoal for trousers. The c...

Green is the third colour

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or ch...

StyleNovember 25th 2013

The bespoke pea coat – Part 1

November 6th 2013

A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August. This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I liked the way our leather...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 1

A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August.   This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I liked ...

Casual clothingNovember 6th 2013

Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars

November 4th 2013

[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] One of the nice things about having cl...

Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars

[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] One of the nice...

November 4th 2013

A tailor’s prayer

October 3rd 2013

GBWU: God be with us. A little note that Lee at Gieves & Hawkes customarily scribbles on patterns for particularly difficult figurations. It is a habit, a superstition: written with a smile and long since deprived of any real expectation of ...

A tailor’s prayer

GBWU: God be with us. A little note that Lee at Gieves & Hawkes customarily scribbles on patterns for particularly difficult figurations. It is a habit, a superstition: written with a smile and long since deprived of any...

October 3rd 2013

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

September 23rd 2013

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama. Mi...

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and ...

StyleSeptember 23rd 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6

August 28th 2013

Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details. There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a relatively full sleeve into a smal...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6

Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details.  There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a rel...

Casual clothingAugust 28th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 5

August 26th 2013

The finished leather jacket. This bespoke project from Gieves & Hawkes has progressed quite quickly compared to tailoring, but it still feels like an age since Davide and I first conceived of the idea. Most of all, there is the sudden, surpr...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 5

The finished leather jacket. This bespoke project from Gieves & Hawkes has progressed quite quickly compared to tailoring, but it still feels like an age since Davide and I first conceived of the idea. Most of all, there...

Casual clothingAugust 26th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 4

August 19th 2013

The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. You can’t fit leather in...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 4

The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. ...

Casual clothingAugust 19th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 3

August 7th 2013

This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece of cloth to make up this piece....

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 3

This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece o...

Casual clothingAugust 7th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2

July 19th 2013

This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide has since altered that, so ...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2

This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide has si...

Casual clothingJuly 19th 2013

Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival

July 15th 2013

This past weekend saw the Coronation Festival in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, at which holders of royal warrants exhibited. The royal warrant is not exactly the mark of quality that some might assume, given that it includes Austin Reed and Daks...

Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival

This past weekend saw the Coronation Festival in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, at which holders of royal warrants exhibited.  The royal warrant is not exactly the mark of quality that some might assume, given that i...

July 15th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

July 11th 2013

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative...

Casual clothingJuly 11th 2013

The BTBA summer party

July 8th 2013

Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins. Three Anderson & Shep...

The BTBA summer party

Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins.   Thr...

July 8th 2013

Shoulder pads at Gieves, old silk books and worst...

May 31st 2013

One of Italy’s oldest books on silk work In the past two weeks on The Rake we’ve had pieces looking at the way Davide Taube and his fellow cutters are ripping down their shoulder pads at Gieves, and a step-by-step feature on the ...

Shoulder pads at Gieves, old silk books and worst...

One of Italy’s oldest books on silk work  In the past two weeks on The Rake we’ve had pieces looking at the way Davide Taube and his fellow cutters are ripping down their shoulder pads at Gieves, and a step-by-step ...

May 31st 2013

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke

April 26th 2013

Gieves & Hawkes has always had a good bespoke operation, and surprisingly large on site, but it gets relatively little press. A definite bonus has been Davide Taub, who joined from Maurice Sedwell recently to become co-head cutter alongside ...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke

Gieves & Hawkes has always had a good bespoke operation, and surprisingly large on site, but it gets relatively little press. A definite bonus has been Davide Taub, who joined from Maurice Sedwell recently to become co-h...

April 26th 2013

How to buy a quality suit

February 12th 2013

  Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and popular culture i...

How to buy a quality suit

Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and po...

SuitsFebruary 12th 2013