A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August.
 
This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I liked the way our leather jacket brought so many aspects of tailoring to bear on a casual piece of clothing, but in retrospect it was quite risky designing it from scratch. The pea coat, by contrast, is both a casual-wear staple and closely related to standard tailoring items such as the great coat.
 
We dug into the Gieves archive, both for great coats and military dress jackets, to create our initial design. It has an S-shaped sweep of buttons more commonly seen on a great coat; there will be a hidden pocket under the left-hand lapel to hold a mobile phone; the chest will be quilted inside to give it greater structure; and the sleeves will be cuffed with the possibility of embroidered details.
 
The back will have an open box pleat in the back, closed in the waist and then open again to the bottom. We eventually decided to go without a yoke – the second of the two options sketched at top. The panels holding the half belt are a design detail taken from an archived great coat.
 
Many of the old pea coats, and some modern designs, also have a separate panel on the front running around the buttons. We felt this was too fussy and had little practical purpose. On most recent coats, it was merely decorative.
 
The buttons will be vintage gilt, and we will aim to fit it over a casual jacket as well as knitwear – so the length will be slightly longer than a regular pea coat.


Above, Davide’s note to the tailor, which required some longer explanation on the back.

 
And below, the pattern chalked out. WDWR stands for ‘Who dares wins Rodney’, a reference to Lee’s (Webb, other Gieves cutter) pattern posted here last month, and a piece of gentle mockery of myself. 

 

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Anonymous

More of a bridge coat, surely? Looks too long for a pea. Anyway, very similar to one I had made at Timothy Everest a while back.

Omar

What is the difference between a pea coat and a trench coat? Style seems quite similar but your fabric appears to be wool which I don’t think would work for a trench coat.

Anonymous

Great stuff. A pea coat is one of my favourite items in menswear, supremely cool and can really be dressed up or down. I actually have a G&H knee-length one which will be seeing use in the coming weeks, albeit RTW

Anonymous

This is going to be ugly . The mistake you are making , as with the leather , is that these garments are not something worth making . A Pea coat and a leather jacket are heritage garments – there’s no need to fuck about with them , just buy a great one when you find it , be it second hand or whatever

Anonymous

I am sure you are aware that most leather Jackets , pea coats , field jackets etc are derived from Military garments . I am just using the word “heritage ” as a euphemism for old or classic . The truly stylish man will always mix old and new , I have the majority of my clothes made these days and I thoroughly enjoy the experience because I love clothes . However , one should recognise when to go to the tailor . A leather jacket on a middle aged man is a difficult one to pull off , invariably you will end up looking like Jeremy Clarkson , particularly a brand new one . A proper A1 would have been a good move if you must have a leather bomber . For a peacoat Buzz Rickson does a very authentic copy or you could try Cassie Mercantile .

Anonymous

I’m really looking forward to seeing how this pea coat turns out. I can’t see how having this made bespoke is any different than any other type of overcoat made bespoke. There’s no reason why a peacoat shouldn’t fit as well as anything else. Burtroot’s argument doesn’t make sense to me. This garment may not be a classic peacoat, but it’s going to be something all of its own

Anonymous

Looks great Simon. I especially like what you’ve done with the back. I know it’s David’s style, but something about the embroidery seems a little too delicate to me for a Peacoat. Either way I’m sure it will come out great.

Anonymous

Is that cloth black? I have read your article on black as a color for suits, and I agree that gray or blue work much better not just for suits but almost all clothing. For that reason I have always thought it was strange that black (or a very dark blue that is indistinguishable from black) is the most popular color for pea coats. What is your opinion on black outerwear?

Erik Rasmussen

Can you share with us what this would cost?

Timbo

This looks great and I am just shopping around for a pea coat for myself . Slightly stunned at the price though a Loro Piano baby cashmere pea coat is £4,380 not much more for such an incredible fabric , though I know it is not bespoke.

Hristo

Hello Simon,
great project.
Could you advise on sources of pictures of old military jackets?
They seem to be a very good inspiration for casual bespoke jackets.
I am now researching for a design and cloth for a really warm odd jacket that could be buttoned all the way up.
Until now the 3 main designs would be
-> a shorter version of such pea coat
-> a similar jacket to your Vergallo houndstooth blazer
-> a jacket with an extended collar that could button up instead of using the lapel buttonhole.
Maybe there are also other options which look casual and elegant at the same time.

Hristo

Hello Simon,
thank you for your answer.
May you tell what kind of fabric do you use in your pea coat? A producer and weight would be nice.

Best Regards
Hristo

Hristo

Thank you!
I am surprised that you did not picked a heavier fabric. You are supporter of the heavy fabrics and pea coats are traditionally heavier – 24 to 32 oz.
Even some RTW:
http://www.sterlingwear.com/cart/index.php?p=product&id=5&parent=1

Hristo

Hello Simon,
I see you ordered your pea coat with a quilted lining. Is there a supplier that offers warm linings with natural materials only? When I google quilted linings I get a lot of results with polyester. 🙁
Are there linings with down and feathers that could be used in bespoke tailoring for projects like your pea coat?

Moncho

Hello Simon,

I plan to order a bespoke peacoat. It will be my first bespoke garment and I need some advice:
What would you suggest as type of fabric and weight so that the coat is wearable a little more year round than winter ? I am not a cold natured person and live in a temperate climate (South of France); average temperatures are between 5 and 10 degrees in autumn and winter.
Which italian(s) tailor(s) would you suggest for a peacoat?
Lastly, which budget is to be planned approximately?

Muchas gracias 🙂