Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details.
There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a relatively full sleeve into a smaller armhole. The excess that can be worked in with leather is around half of that on a suit jacket – 1.25 inches rather than around 2.5, and mostly distributed with the rolling of the sleeve at front and back. However, even the careful machine stitching looks nice on the leather, particularly where it starts partway down a section, as on the sleeve seam above.
The sleeve lining used is the Gieves house pattern, and the buttons on the cuffs are secured on the back with mother-of-pearl buttons.
A longer piece of leather is deliberately used to run under the bottom of the zip, creating this nice roll. The rest of the waistband is made of two pieces, front and back, with a thin stiffener in between to retain its shape.
The way the seam across the top of the back runs into the sleeve seam is a nice detail.
The contrast of the leather pocket surrounds against the brown lining. Both internal pockets are zipped and finished as with a bespoke jacket – with a Gieves label on the left pocket and a customer label on the inside of the right.